22 minute read
Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 New Zealand Walks: Dazzling days around two big
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Opposite page above: My Aunty and I at Blue Lake, Tongariro Crossing several years ago. Amazing walk. Photo by Jackie Burne, Hamilton Middle left: See if you can find me? . Photo by Enzo Simcock, Hataitai, Wellington Middle right: My partner Racheal Young (in the photo) and I Walked the Dogstream Waterfall track in Hanmer Springs, South Island last month. What a great hike up to the waterfall!! A beautiful spot. Photo by Chris Stam, Feilding. Above right: “Members of the Upper Hutt Walking and Tramping Club on the 5.4k ‘Giant Circuit’ track on Te Mata Peak, Havelock North”. Photo by Sharon Dunstan, Whitby, Porirua Above left: Two cyclists enjoy a Autumn ride along a very interesting trail that goes through the old Arrowtown Chinese Settlement. Photo by Heather Winter, Lumsden.
By Phillip Donnell
Dazzling days around two big bays
The northwest corner of the South Island features two major coastal indentations. The westernmost is known today as “Golden Bay”, a name dating from 1857 when pig hunters found gold in the Aorere River.
Prior to that, Dutch navigator Abel Tasman had called it “Murderer’s Bay” after four of his crew were killed by local Maori in 1642 and Frenchman Dumont D’Urville echoed his sentiments by designating it as “Massacre Bay” in 1827.
In 1842 it became “Coal Bay” following the discovery of coal at Takaka, but the minerals of the area also include black marble, white marble, talc, magnesite, china clay, slate, and dolomite.
The bay is shallow – less than 37 metres. Its southern shoreline has many coves and inlets edged with beaches of golden sand. The bay receives the waters of several streams, of which the largest are the Aorere and Takaka Rivers.
On a tall cliff overlooking Ligar Bay stands the Abel Tasman Memorial, commemorating the 300th anniversary of the Dutch navigator’s arrival.
Golden Bay is blessed with a series of vibrant towns that are too good to miss. Tākaka has some excellent cafes, with a particular focus on healthy wholefoods. After a guiltfree lunch, balance that at Choco Loco, the town’s award-winning chocolate shop.
Further along the coast in CollingAbove: Dimrill Dale, Mt Owen. Below left: Rocks piled up on Mt Arthur.
wood is an old courthouse that dates back to 1901. Today, it’s known as the Courthouse Café, and the only miscarriage of justice is not stopping; the food is excellent.
In between Tākaka and Collingwood is another hidden gem: Onekaka, where The Mussel Inn is the main attraction – serving craft beer, great food and, of course, plenty of mussels. The main attraction, however, are the beautiful and plentiful walks that dot the hinterland. Here I mention just a few of them.
Golden Bay has a 25-kilometrelong guardian angel: Farewell Spit. It’s an enormous arm of sand stretching into the sea. On one side are the windswept, treacherous swells of the Tasman Sea; on the other side the complete opposite, giving the Spit two distinct personalities.
Countless seabirds come here, including thousands of godwits that fly each summer from Alaska. It’s also a moulting ground for 12,000 black swans. A small reserve at the neck is open to the public, and offers a pleasant loop walk (One hour 30 minutes), but possibly the best way to explore the Spit is the six and a half hour commercial trip that takes you to the lighthouse right at the . end, where seals bask on the rocks.
On the way, you’ll pass fascinating seabirds, lunar-like landscapes, and you can even spot fossilised worms in the rock of ancient cliffs. From the neck it’s possible to wander southwards to the Puponga Farm Park, featuring the spectacular stacks and arches of Wharariki Beach.
The region is home to an underwater Garden of Eden: Te Waikoropupū Springs. This sacred spring pumps out 14,000 litres of pristine water each second from an elaborate network of limestone under the valley. It’s also a place of great significance to local Māori. The waters represent the lifeblood of Papatūānuku (Earth Mother) and the tears of Rangi-nui (Sky
Father). Because of the cultural significance, and to protect the outstanding purity, you can’t touch the water.
The springs are reached on a scenic 45-minute loop walk, which has a viewing platform out over the
Above left: The Asbestos Cottage. Above right: Cecil King’s Hut on the Whangapeka Track. Below left: Chaffeys Hut in the Cobb Valley. Below right: Inside the Asbestos Cottage.
water. This gives you a chance to marvel at the visibility – measured to be 63 metres underwater, some of the clearest in the world. This site is one of the great natural wonders of New Zealand, and should be on every Kiwi’s bucket list.
Golden Bay is the lesser-known access point to the Abel Tasman National Park and its famous coastal track. Most people head to the entrance at Marahau, but ask any Golden Bay local, and they will all tell you their side of the track is by far the most attractive. Totaranui Bay is a springboard to explore some of the track’s secluded bays on a day hike. If you’re after something more leisurely, a visit to Wainui Falls takes just over an hour return, and rewards you with a stunning vista of the largest waterfall in the bay.
The Grove Scenic Reserve is also well worth the effort, especially for kids. This 40-minute walk weaves through enormous limestone blocks, lined with nīkau palms, and feels like you’re walking through a movie set.
Further inland lies the Cobb Valley, from which it is possible to walk to Asbestos Cottage (two to three hours), focus of a fascinating love story.
The sub-alpine Lake Peel (four
hours 30 minutes), rustic and tiny Chaffey’s Hut (two hours and 30 minutes), sparkling Lake Sylvester (four hours), vista-rich Cobb Ridge and Mytton’s Nature Walk (45 minutes) are all magnetic options. From the summit of the Takaka Hill, a picturesque road takes you to Canaan Downs and its “must-do” 90-minute walk to Harwood’s Hole, our country’s deepest vertical shaft (176m). After his encounter with Maori Dazzling days around two in Golden Bay, Abel Tasman sailed eastwards into another huge bay before proceeding north. It now big bays bears his name. James Cook called it “Blind Bay” in 1773, a name which continued for many years, but after surveying and charting the bay in 1827 D’Urville named it after Tasman, and that name has stuck. The chief ports in the bay are Nelson, Mapua and Motueka. Along the north eastern sector Croiselles Harbour, Greville Harbour and Port Hardy afford sheltered anchorages. Again, however, it’s the walks in the vicinity that are a major attraction. Nelson City began as a Wakefield NZ Company settlement in 1842. Church Hill, occupied by Nelson Cathedral, is a focal point from which to begin urban perambulations along the Maitai River, around the waterfront, through Queen’s Gardens and over the Port Hills. Within the city boundaries you can climb to the geographical centre of New Zealand (one hour) or the Grampians Lookout (One hour 30 minutes), and amble the shoreline around Tahunanui Beach. The Dun Mountain Historic Walkway follows the line of New Zealand’s very first railway line (two to three hours). A short distance out of town at The Glen, you can walk east over the hill to Cable Bay (three hours), where the communication cable that connected New Zealand to the rest of the world for many years came ashore. Alternatively, wander west along
Above left: On the Boulder Bank, Nelson. Below left: The Maitai River ( before the August floods), Nelson.
the globally-unique Boulder Bank (30 minutes to six hours), a natural breakwater enclosing Nelson Haven.
Two national parks are nearby. The western portal of the Abel Tasman National Park beckons walkers inexorably to Split Apple Rock and the stunning cream-coloured sands of Tinline, Coquille and Apple Tree Bays, lapped by turquoise waves. It’s halcyon stuff. Beyond Motueka a steep drive to Flora Carpark introduces you to the wonders of Kahurangi National Park’s Mount Arthur Tablelands, including the Gridiron and Growler Shelters (four hours), Flora Hut (one hour 10 minutes), Lodestone (four hours), the Mount Arthur Hut Loop two hours 30 minutes) and the looming peak itself (1795m, five to seven hours).
Further south, you can venture to Dimrill Dale, the limestone-crevassed “Lord of the Rings” location on the flank of Mount Owen (five to six hours). Blue Creek, Nuggety Creek, Granity Creek and the Lutine Pool are shorter choices around the base of this magnificent massif.
Cecil King’s adze-crafted historic hut on the Wangapeka Track (five hours) is a special spot too.
Above left: At the geographical centre of New Zealand. Above right: The Boulder Bank, Nelson.
The opportunity to enjoy many of these walks is presented by Footsteps Walking Club of Aotearoa New Zealand in a one-week excursion scheduled for 12-18 February, 2023.
Clean and comfortable accommodation, transport and competent guides are provided in an inexpensive package, with the chance to see some great sights and make new friends. And you can always combine it with their Marlborough daywalks excursion the week before for a fuller Top-of-the-South experience. They welcome your enquiry.
You can contact them at footstepsanz@gmail.com, 021 172 3244. Details of all their trips may be found on their website www.footstepswalkingclub. com.
FOOTSTEPS
OFFERING THE BEST DAY WALKS IN 20 REGIONS OF NEW ZEALAND!
Each region has a week-long package (for 6-10 people), including transport and accommodation.
We welcome your enquiry: footstepsanz@gmail.com or phone 021 172 3244
Two easy Taupo Spring walks
Spring is the perfect time to strap on your hiking boots and explore the many stunning walks and hikes in Taupo.
Here’s are two to choose from”
Great Lake Pathway
Easy | 10 minutes to three hours
The Great lake Pathway begins at the Lake Taupo Yacht Club where Redoubt Street meets Ferry Road. and winds its way along the lake edge all the way to Five Mile Bay, a distance of 10 kilometres.
There are plenty of parking options along the length of the ride so you can start and finish the trail at any point you choose
Ideal picnic and swimming spots can be found along the way. There are toilet facilities in all the bays and a children’s playground and barbecue facility at Wharewaka Point. Walk as far as you like then return the same way. This easy, flat path is suitable for pushchairs and bikes, and dogs are permitted
From Taupo Boat Harbour it heads along the lakefront, along which you can see stunning views across the lake toward Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. The track passes a number of popular hotels and motels, as well as hot water spots where you can stop and dip your toes in the Above: On the Spa Park to Huka Falls Trail beside the Waikato River. Below left: Two cyclists on the Great Lake Pathway. hot sand. The paved walkway continues on past the Three Mile Bay boat ramp, taking in more secluded bays with boats moored and some lovely holiday homes. There are a number of picnic and rest areas on the lakefront where you can stop and take in the views or have a swim. Kowhai trees have been planted along the way to provide shelter for local wildlife. Ducks and swans can usually be seen as you pass by. Distance: 10km Time: One to two hours Physical rating: Easy Direction: Return via the same track Shuttles: Transport is unlikely to be needed but is available if desired
Dog access: Yes, dogs allowed
Spa Thermal Park to Huka Falls
Easy | two hours return (via same track)
The Spa Thermal Park to Huka Falls walk is along a well-defined track that winds along the banks of the Waikato River, offering lovely views along the way.
Walk along the banks of the Waikato River from the hot springs in Spa Thermal Park to the spectacular Huka Falls.
Near the start of the track a bridge crosses a natural hot stream. The walk finishes at the spectacular Huka Falls. A pleasant walk for the whole family, this walk can be linked with the Aratiatia Dam Trail, which continues along the river to the Aratiatia Rapids. There are car park areas at Spa Thermal Park, Huka Falls and the Aratiatia Dam. .
From the Spa Thermal Park car park, follow the signs towards the Waikato River.
Near the start of the track a bridge crosses a natural hot stream, Otumuheke Stream, where you can enjoy a free hot soak.
From here the well-defined track winds along the riverbank, offering lovely views along the way. The walk finishes at the spectacular Huka Falls.
From Huka Falls you can continue on to Aratiatia Rapids.
The walking track continues along the river to the Aratiatia hydro dam and rapids. This is an additional four hour return walk.
Car parking facilities are available at Spa Thermal Park, Huka Falls and the Aratiatia Dam. Dogs are permitted on this track.
Distance: 3km
Grade: (1 - 5) 2
Time required: Two hours
Dog access: Yes, dogs allowed
Toilets: Yes, toilet facilities at Spa Thermal Park and Huka Falls
Cape Brett Walk -
a spectacular must do walk
By Steph Godsiff
The Walk to the Cape Brett in the Bay of Islands is up there amongst one of the best hikes in New Zealand. A fairly difficult and totally rewarding expedition and one that is a “must do” on many of the locals annual walking calendar.
Departing Russell in the morning by boat, travelling through the montage of islands to Deep Water Cove, where the HMS Canterbury was sunk for divers to explore. It’s a 6km walk to Cape Brett lighthouse and the DOC hut where you stay the night.
The effort is rewarded with outstanding views of the outer Bay of Islands, north to the Cavalli Islands and south to Whangaruru and beyond to the Poor Knight Islands.
Cape Brett is a very special place, and staying overnight out on the peninsula is a magical experience.
The 14-metre high Cape Brett lighthouse was built in 1906 and a small settlement was established for the lighthouse keepers and their families. This lighthouse was finally automated in 1978 and thus came the end of settlement for the families.
When you arrive you will see old dwelling sites of the families houses and you get a sense of their isolation, and their responsibility in keeping watch over those who needed protecting on the water.
The seven distinctive peaks that mark Cape Brett’s spine are represent the seven waka that brought Maori settlers to Aotearoa from Hawaiiki around 700 years ago. The area is rich in early Maori history, and the remains of ancient pa.
The walk is varied through salt burnt tussock country, windswept stunted Manuka, canopy forests, native and regenerating bush often accompanied by fantail, wood pigeon, pied tit and tui. From the forested ridges, you can take in spectacular coastal scenery, walking alongside the dramatic cliff-face, you can see fish and bird life below.
You know you are near the end of the your trek when the lighthouse appears, you can see Motu Kōkako (Piercy Island) and the large rock between (Otuwhanga Island), often you will see a charter boat head through the Hole in the Rock.
The hut is great – there are 23 bunk beds in the hut spread over a few rooms, but plenty of room in the kitchen dining area. The large tables in the kitchen are fabulous to share a meal around.
If the weather is good, watching the sunset is an incredible experience– you can watch this from just outside the hut! Spectacular colours, and often you can see the moon rising over the water in the East.
It’s a great idea to get up early and wander over the East size to watch the dawn colours and sunrise.
On the Walking Weekend you head back to Deep Water Cove to be picked up. Following coffee and breakfast you take the zig zag path from the hut to the lighthouse and trig point above.
The ups and downs heading back along the peninsula began with views out to the open sea and down as far as the Poor Knights Islands, beautiful coastline, beaches and forest.
On the Bay of Islands Walking Weekend Calendar we have this as our only overnight walk. The Rakaumangamanga – Cape Brett
Above left: Cape Brett Lighthouse.
Above left Cape Brett Hut. Above right: Cape Breet guide and tail end Charlie.
Lighthouse Overnight Walk (walk 15).
It is a hard walk and one you need a good level of fitness as you are required to carry some food and your own gear. The 6km walk in – which takes around three hours gives you plenty of time to stop, rest and take in the vistas.
The Bay of Islands Walking Weekend makes it accessible and affordable to get out to some fantastic walks! They are guided by fun, knowledgeable guides who know the region and will entertain you every step of the way.
The Bay of Island Walking Weekend is on13, 14, 15, 16th October 2022 www.boiwalkingweekend.co.nz
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A day walking with Mozart in Salzburg
Explore the wonderful baroque city of old Salzburg in Austria, by walking in the footsteps of its most famous son and gain insights into fascinating history all in one day. Regarded as a musical genius, and most certainly one of the world’s most prolific and influential musicians and composers, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was a true son of Salzburg.
Morning
Start off the day with breakfast at the legendary Café Tomaselli (Alter Market). A venerable Salzburg institution, the café dates back to Mozart’s time. It is said that Wolfgang Amadeus himself was a frequent guest, however his beverage of choice was almond milk.
His widow, Konstanze, lived upstairs with her second husband for a while.
The Tomaselli is the perfect starting point to begin your stroll through Salzburg’s Old Town, which is in many ways the same as it was during Mozart’s lifetime.
Walk past the Mozart Square and take a look at the statue, erected in 1844 as the first monument dedicated to the composer. Just around the corner, visit the Salz-
Above: A colourfull court yard with the cathedral in the centre of the photo. Below left: Looking towards Hohensalzburg Castle sitting atop the Festungsberg, a small hill in the Austrian city of Salzburg.
burg Cathedral.
Not only is the cathedral Salzburg’s most significant baroque building, it is also the church where Mozart was baptized. To the left of the entrance you will find the original baptismal font.
Later in life, in his capacity of court organist and concertmaster, Mozart composed numerous works of sacred music to be performed here.
Afterwards, walk via Alter Markt over to the Getreidegasse and visit Mozart’s Birthplace at Number 9, now one of two museums dedicated to Mozart in the city.
Mozart’s birthplace is open daily from 9 am -5.30 pm (during July and August till 7 pm).
Time for lunch at the Stiftskeller St. Above left: Austrians go in for colourful eggs in a big way as decorations. Above right: Horse drawn carriages in old Salzburg. Above; Colourful images in a Mozart Museum. Below left: A colourful monument. Below right: The quaint shops in old Salzburg.
A day walking with Mozart in Salzburg
Peter, just a short walk away. Considered the oldest restaurant in Europe (a first historical mention dates back to 803) it offers authentic local cuisine in impressive historic surroundings.
Afternoon
What better way to start off the afternoon than with a jolt of chocolate. At Konditorei Fürst (Brodgasse 13) indulge in a box of Mozartkugeln (Mozart chocolates).
Though you can find many variations of this local delicacy around town, this is the place where patissier Paul Fürst invented this world famous creation - a pistachio marzipan center hand-dipped into dark chocolate nougat. It is still individually produced at Konditorei Fürst.
Afterwards, walk on the Staatsbrücke across the Salzach River to the Mozart Residence, on Makartplatz 8, where the Mozart family moved in 1773 and which is now the second museum dedicated to Mozart in Salzburg.
Then head over to the Bibliotheca Mozartiana (Schwarzstrasse 26) which contains about 35,000 titles and is the most extensive Mozart library in the world.
Evening
Naturally your evening should include either a concert of the Mozarteum, or a performance of a Mozart Opera at the world famous Salzburg Marionette Theater.
Enjoy a late-night dinner at the upscale Hotel Sacher, or go for local fare at cozy local beer tavern, the Fideler Affe. Above left: Inside the Salzburg cathedral. Above right: A couple outside Mozart’s birthplace. Middle left: The highly ornate altar in Salzburg Cathedral. Below left: Mozart chocolate boxes are popular with tourists. Below right: A variety of souvenirs at one of the marketplace stalls.
A walking tramping experience
where history and myth meet
The myths and legends of the South Island High Country are woven into our national identity.
The bygone days of hardy men on horseback mustering thousands of sheep across remote and wildly beautiful hillsides, partnered by faithful dogs, gathering around a hut or camp-fire under starry skies, is an iconic image we kiwis treasure.
You can experience it for yourself when you walk or mountain bike ride Four Peaks High Country Track. You will overnight at two original shepherd’s huts, of which Sutherland’s is NZ’s oldest working shepherds hut.
Sutherland’s Hut was built in 1866, and named after one of the original boundary keepers who ■ lived in it.
This stone hut has seen the fortunes of sheep farming rise and fall on Four Peaks Station (originally owned by Charles Tripp of Orari Gorge Station, one of the original colonial sheep runs in Canterbury).
You and your group of up to 10 friends have exclusive access to this remote and magnificent setting, open mid November - April. You follow well-marked sheep and 4-Wheel drive tracks, through riverbeds, and open tussock country.
Crossing through the Four Peaks range at 1157m above sea level providing spectacular panoramic views - of lakes, mountains, the plains of the Fairlie basin and beyond to the Mackenzie
Country. You also have the option of climbing Devil’s Peak 1687m, the 2nd highest of the four peaks, for that 360 degree panoramic view.
Few visitors ever experience such an authentic experience in this uniquely rugged but fragile environment.
Visit www.walkfourpeaks.co.nz for more detail.
A unique four days walk or mountain bike ride in idyllic South Canterbury
Above: We made it -on top of one of the peaks. Below left: Sutherland’s Hut NZ’s oldest working shepherds hut.
