New Zealand Walks: Biking around the mountains

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Biking around the mountains from Walter Peak Station

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Views over Lake Wakatipu from the Tiki Trail.

Biking around the mountains from Walter Peak Station

Walter Peak Station

Having walked most of the trails around Queenstown over the years, this year we had fun biking around the mountains from Walter Peak Station.

To reach Walter peak, we had to travel across Lake Wakatipu from the Steamer Wharf in Queenstown. We had a choice of the Earnslaw at midday or the water taxi at 9am, and chose the earlier boat to give us more time to explore the trail to Mavora lakes.

Walter Peak, a high country sheep station on the southern shore of Lake Wakatipu, was originally settled in 1860. The trail between here and St Nicolas station was stunning, snow capped mountains all the way. This is the only way to enjoy such scenery. It’s too far to walk, and driving is far too fast to enjoy it all.

St Nicholas, one of the largest stations in New Zealand, was also settled in the 1860’s. It spans 100,000 acres and has been farmed by the same family for four generations. Both stations market fine By Barbz Lowther merino wool, and St Nicholas was the first station to supply ice breaker merinos.

Most of the trail was easy going on fine gravel road, but there were a few corrugated patches which were challenging.

Above left: Spectacular sceneery biking through St Nicholas Station. Above right: Mountain views from St Nicholas Station.. Below right: Barbz on the trail from Walter Peak to St Nicholas Station.

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Biking around the mountains from Walter Peak Station

Above: Another bridge on the Mataura River. Below left: Golden Gate bridge near Athol. Below right: Derek walking up the Tiki Trail.

We biked slowly up Van Hill (easy on an e-bike) and walked across two fords, where the rivers were flowing fast after heavy rain the day before.

Just past the second ford, we took a side trip up to an interesting old shepherds hut, and not far from there, the shuttle driver met us. To avoid the busy, dusty section to Mavora lakes, we drove in style, thankful not to be biking, because it was a very popular place

Mavora Lakes is a protected area of forest, mountains and tussock land. There are two lakes, drained by the Mavora River. Within the park there are camp sites and lots of walking trails.

We were dropped off at Te Anau Lakeside Motel, a nice place to stay. Next morning we were dropped back on trail, at Centre Hill.

The trail here was easy going, fine gravel and slightly downhill, but we

had an icy wind so a stop at Mossburn for hot chocolate was ‘a must’. Mossburn is a really pretty area, dominated by Dome and Hamilton mountains. In another 10kms we reached Lumsden, an interesting little town on the elbow of Oreti River. It was once a major railway junction, with lines departing in four directions.

We stayed at the ‘Royal Mail Hotel – built in 1875, renovated after a fire in the early 1900’s, and recently re-decorated to retain its old world charm.

A highlight of Lumsden for us, was the bakery with its delicious apple cinnamon do-nuts.

Our third day was short - only 32kms, but the morning started icy cold so we bought gloves in Lumsden, and delayed our departure until 10am. For the first half hour, rabbits scattered in all directions as we biked along the trail. Interesting info’ boards told of the history of this area as we passed through.

Our first stop was ‘Five Rivers’, the site of a battle between Ngai Tahu and Ngati Mamoe.

Next, was Nokomai, a gold mining site, where a Chinese man introduced the method of sluicing, to find gold.

We biked on through Parawa Station, opening and closing many gates, and continued on to Athol (New Ireland) by early afternoon. It’s a pity that trains no longer service these places, because there’s not a lot left to see in Athol.

Day 4 took us from Athol, back to Queenstown. This was an interesting ride. Not far from Athol were the golden gate bridges, so named by locals, because they are mini replicas of the Golden Gate bridge.

We stopped to read the info’ board at the old Nokomai Railway siding, and met a farmer whose family has owned this station since 1850. He well remembers the train coming through. Continuing along the now disused railway track, we reached Garston – the most inland settlement in New Zealand, close to the upper reaches of the Mataura River, and notable for trout fishing. Above right: A herd of deer near Five Rivers. Middle right: Sheep on a farm as seen from biking into Lumsden. Below right: A green crop on farmland on the way to Athol.

Biking around the mountains from Walter Peak Station

Another stop was the old Fairlight Railway Station – the southern terminus of the Kingston Flier.

We then biked over glacial moraine to Kingston, and the old Kingston flier. This train was originally a passenger train from Kingston to Gore, Invercargill and Dunedin from the 1890’s to 1957.

It was revitalised in1971 as a tourist train and operated in Summers until 1979. The Kingston Flyer started on Serpember 18 and runs every Sunday until December 18 2022.

From Kingston we were met by ’Round the Mountains’ shuttle driver and transferred to Kelvin Heights on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. We biked around the edge of the lake, back to the Steamer Wharf in Queenstown.

What a beautiful end to a four day bike ride. It was well organised, very flexible and really interesting. It was an area we couldn’t have walked. The following day we walked around Lake Hayes, a short drive away. This lake is so peaceful, although so close to busy Queenstown. The trail is a shared walking biking trail, so is well graded and maintained.

On our last day, we walked up the ‘Tiki Trail’ to the top of the gondola in Queenstown – a lovely shady walk with spectacular scenery. It is always magnificent, no matter what season and keeps us coming back for more.

Above: Reflections in lake Hayes. Below right: One of the many gates at Parawa Station.

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