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New Zealand Walks: Pouakai Tarn Walk - a top Mt
Pouakai Tarn walk -
a top Mt Taranaki walk
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Take a day walk across the northern slopes of Mt Taranaki, through spectacular native bush, alpine wetlands and goblin forest.
The Pouakai By Judy Eva Track had been on my bucket list for many months and I finally got the courage to attempt what I had been advised was not for the faint-hearted due to the continuous and steep uphill climb to reach the top to view the famous Tarn that is the subject of many beautiful magical photos of Mt Taranaki reflected in it’s pool.
I started out early on a Sunday morning at 8.30am as I am lucky enough to live only about 30 minutes from the parking area at the start of the walk. It was a fine sunny day and my hopes were to reach the Tarn while the sky was a clear blue with the mountain hopefully reflected in it, a most magical view by all who had been lucky enough to experience it.
The advice given was that it would be about a three hour climb to reach the Pouakai Hut, also a stop over point for trampers that want to do the Pouakai Loop Crossing and a place to take a break before the last part of the journey to the plateau.
The parking area which is huge and caters for buses, motor homes and large vehicles as well as cars is situated about a 10 minute walk to reach the beginning of the track, about a 500 metre walk.
There are two toilets, rubbish bins and several large boards with photos and information there as well. This is the take off point to get to the track.
The entrance to the track is not that easy to find. There is a short walk along to the end of the tar sealed road, through a bush track then veering right over a grassland area past a farm house further along on the left, then the entrance to the track where there are several more information boards.
This track is the shortest way to get
Left: The top of the plateau, signposted to the various walks.
Pouakai Tarn walk - a top Mt Taranaki walk
to the hut and the Tarn.
I had been given information by DOC. (Department of Conservation) who manage the mountain and the tracks that the whole way up to the hut and Tarn was boardwalk and steps.
Due to this upgrade of the track it is now in fantastic condition. No more muddy wet shoes as the swampy parts are now underneath.
The climb starts about 500 metres along the boardwalk, until reaching that point the grade is gradual. There are several parts along the way where exposed roots need to be taken with care.
The steps are spaced along the length of the boardwalk, you can have a breather on the flat part before you get to the next lot of steps. As you continue up the climb becomes steeper.
The entire walk is under forest canopy on either side and there is even a small area of goblin forest to venture through. You can see different shapes and faces in the moss covered trees and old branches and there are many vines hanging tangled amongst the trees. It does have a creepy sort of atmosphere as you pass through that part and was completely silent, no bird noises that morning.
There were many people on the way up and also coming down, they were all much younger than me and more sprightly. The higher it got the more steep it became, very challenging. The changing scenery is spectacular giving time to stop and enjoy.
There is a viewing platform on the left of the track a fair way up where you can see right along the Taranaki coastline, luckily it wasn’t clouded over. The mountain is out of view until you get to above the hut.
The Pouakai Hut is 5kms from the carpark and in all it took me three hours to reach it, (allowing for stops to catch my breath, take some photos, and being a retired oldie). It was great to be able to sit down on the decking outside in the warm sun when I finally reached it to have my lunch, chat with other exhausted climbers, admire the view below and watch others making their way up to reach the hut. The hut is popular, has 16 beds bunk style, long drop toilets, rubbish bins and can be booked through the DOC website www. egmont@doc.govt.nz
The closest wind speed you can get is at the Pouakai Hut level which is 1km from the Tarn.
Above left: The most photographed scene on the track, but today the mountain started to cloud over. Above right: Goblin like fingers and shapes in the Goblin Forest area. Below left: Some parts of the track with exposed roots.
Once you leave the hut is a short uphill walk to the plateau and a good view of the mountain if it is not clouded over.
I was lucky enough for a friendly tourist who offered to take my photo amongst the tussock and boulders just before I ventured down onto a gently sloping boardwalk and to the Tarn. Sadly it started to cloud over while my photo was being taken and I knew my chance of a beautiful Tarn photo was now a dream, however, carry on.
The walk along the boardwalk to the Tarn has great views of the alpine and tussock covered area. On reaching the Tarn I waited for an hour with several other disappointed people but the cloud decided not to lift instead it increased except for exposing a small parting. No good for those elusive photos. There is a magnificent boardwalk around the Tarn and seating on the viewing side.
The Tarn is known as Ruahumoko after the guardian ancestor who continues to protect these tapu (sacred waters) was gifted to the people who used water from Ruahumoko for spiritual cleansing. At times they could see images in the water. To protect the sacred essence of the these Tarns and to avoid damaging the fragile habitat, pease stay on the boardwalk and out of the water.
Disappointing about my photo opportunities but the whole experience of this day out was still very rewarding. There is beauty to behold everywhere. Well worth the effort.
Time to start the downhill walk from the plateau back to the carpark. This again needs care as it is very steep and can be rather dangerous if taken too quickly. It is once again a long hike a bit tough on the ankles, knees and feet. Great views and plenty more photo opportunities. I must admit I was glad to see the exit back onto the road, two and a half hours later.
Best time to see the mountain reflected in the Tarn I have been informed is early in the morning or in the evening, even then it cannot be guaranteed. Many enthusiast’s book into the hut for the night. If doing the complete loop which takes in the well known and popular Pouakai Crossing the hut is a great stopping place to break the journey.
I cannot speak highly enough of the work by DOC and all those who assisted in the structure and of the work that has gone into this magnificent boardwalk.
Over many years the Pouakai Track once known as the Mangorei Track was once part of the original summit route to the mountain from Above right: The sign at the entrance to the track.
Price $40 Available at some Northland and North
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New Plymouth and has progressively been upgraded from a pack horse track to a premier walking tourist attraction that it is today.
The track ascends through Kamaihi forest, then mountain totara, with broadleaf, pahautea and kaiawaka up to the leatherwood scrublands finishing in the red tussock lands.
If you are using walking poles take
care as they could get caught between the gaps in the stairs.
The walk to the hut is approximately 6.3 kms both ways taking in the Tarn. Getting there does require effort but due to the upgrade on the track it is now in fantastic condition, the downside is the uphill climb the whole way.
The Pouakai Track and Tarn is lo-
Pouakai Tarn walk - a top Mt Taranaki walk
Above left: On the lower track before it starts to climb on to the plateau.. Below right: Goblin like fingers and shapes in the Goblin Forest area.
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cated at the end of Mangorei Road as is the carpark and is 19ks from New Plymouth, a 30 minute drive. For advice on weather and other conditions relating to the track you can contact Egmont National Park Visitor Centre ph 06 759 0350 or email egmontvc@ doc.govt,nz
No dogs allowed. The weather on the mountain can change very quickly and make sure you cater for that, I suggest sturdy shoes and sensible clothing, but in saying that there were day trekkers with children and teenager dressed in light clothing and sandaled feet being that it was a warm spring day.
On reaching the plateau the wind chill can be very cold and blustery. The cell phone coverage is good. The grade is very challenging and a certain amount of fitness is required. Enjoy.
Have a smile!
If you are in a bad mood, go for a walk. If you are still in a bad mood, go for another walk. Hippocrates Above: Lovely scenery on the way down. Below right: The boardwalk to the Ruahumoko Tarn
Fact file
Track starts and ends: Mangorei Road, New Plymouth
To get there: Drive from New Plymouth, head south on SH3, turn right into Mangorei Road and continue to the carpark and Mangorei Track trailhead is at the end of the road.
Distance: 12.5km return.
Time: Allow four to five hours return.
Elevation gain: 770 meters (+/) (lowest point: 520m / highest point: 1225m)
Difficulty: moderate, steep altitude gain but the track is entirely on boardwalk.
Best time to hike: summer | expect snow and ice on the ground in shoulder season.
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Above: Julie striding it out on The Queen Charlotte Track. Photo by Judith O’Leary, Clousten Park, Upper Hutt Below:: David admiring the Pinnacles on the way to Cape Palliser. Photo by Jocelyn Hall, Havelock North. Bottom: Mt Arthur, Nelson Region. This is on the loop track which goes from Flora Carpark to Mt Arthur Hut then back via Flora Hut. This walk has lovely forest and tops, and is one of the easiest places I know of in the area to see riflemen, as well as other interesting birds. Photo by Deb Corbett Stoke, Nelson.
PHOTO CONTEST
Above: “While biking The Lake Dunstan Trail I stopped to look at The Cromwell Heritage Precinct.” Photo by, Sharon Harris, Bethlehem, Tauranga.
Below right: Two of our group, Rosie and Desiree, walking the Hump Ridge Track and couldn’t think of a better way to end 2021. Photo taken on the Percy Burn Viaduct Taken by Rowena Howe, Invercargill