w A Portrait of Britain

What defines Britain more than its people?

British photographer Rankin shares his past, present and even future portraiture as he questions what it means to be British at a time when creativity is arguably our most credible global superpower

Queen Elizabeth II ◄

“Starting with the late, great Queen Elizabeth II – after all, who is more British than the Queen? Captured to mark her Golden Jubilee, I think this photograph prompted the buzz that it did because the public saw a funnier, more human side of the monarch. It’s almost the antithesis of the British “stiff upper lip” demeanour, which makes it so endearing. Plus, it was apparently one of her favourites.”

Queen Elizabeth II, 2002 wFrom Julia Margaret Cameron’s powerful portraits to today’s endless stream of selfies, we Britons have celebrated portraiture for centuries. As a nation we are legitimised with images of ourselves and those we iconise. For 30 years now, that has been my bread and butter. In fact, it is those we choose to put on magazine covers, or hang on our walls in admiration, that say something about us as a society. The very act of taking someone’s portrait allows the person behind the camera to hold up a mirror (or perhaps more fittingly, a lens) to a wider cultural context.

Beyond celebrating the aspects of British culture that I know and love, my work as a photographer also allows me to uncover and, more importantly, understand the progression of our society.

This has been a brilliant opportunity for me to delve through my archive and look at singular images in this context and document what I think British culture is at its very best: progressive, diverse, anarchic, surprising and a little bit quirky. Now, who can I add to this list over the next five years?

Vivienne Westwood ►

“In stark contrast, the queen of British fashion Vivienne Westwood was adored for her anti-establishment approach to all she created. A pioneer of the punk movement, this picture, which I titled The Genius, shows how playful she could be. It went on to be the official cover photograph for Vivienne’s worldtouring retrospective show and, in turn, became one of the most recognisable images of the late fashion maverick. The reason I really love Vivienne is because her trailblazing activism allowed creatives in fashion to be political and have a conscience.”

POP, 2002

Alexander McQueen ▲

“I met Lee (as we called him) early on in his career, so I got to know him before he was mega famous. He was very funny, sensitive and incredibly loyal. I love this photo of him because it feels intimate and contemplative. McQueen embodied that characteristic British rebellious spirit, tapping into taboo topics to create stunning designs. But as he did, he was always the Lee I met and celebrated back in 1994. He remembered where he came from.”

Harpers & Queen, 2002

David Bowie ◄

“David Bowie was a true icon, so much so that I thought he was going to arrive on set and be uber cool, aloof, maybe even otherworldly. But he was the exact opposite. He was humane, inquisitive and really into being photographed in the moment. He was authentic, which is a British quality we all take for granted. He was also enthusiastic, like Tigger in Winnie the Pooh That enthusiasm and desire for understanding is at the heart of we creative Brits.”

Dazed & Confused, Issue 14, 1995

Stephen Graham ▼

“Stephen Graham’s landmark roles in This is England and Line of Duty defined an era of British film. But what surprised me most was his desire to collaborate. When he spoke of suffering from imposter syndrome I realised it is his ability to express vulnerability that makes him one of this country’s top talents.”

BIFA, 2014

Jodie Comer ▲

“Arguably one of the most exciting talents to come out of contemporary Britain, Jodie Comer’s iconic role in Killing Eve marked a turning point for the portrayal of multifaceted femininity in British television. A trailblazer of nuanced and honest portrayals, Jodie possesses a fearless integrity that promises to propel her to even greater heights.”

HUNGER, Issue 20, 2021

Loyle Carner ►

“One of South London’s biggest success stories, Loyle Carner is another exemplary depiction of British talent today. Whether it’s tackling political topics or raising awareness about neurodivergence, Loyle represents that new kind of talent. It’s no longer just about what your music sounds like, or even what you stand for; instead modern audiences are looking for the actions that back it all up.”

HUNGER, Issue 27, 2023

Nathalie Emmanuel ▼

“Strong British women have continuously inspired and influenced my work over the years, and I think this photograph of Nathalie Emmanuel really speaks to that. A believer in opening the heavily guarded gates of Hollywood to all, the mental health advocate and Game of Thrones alumna is a manifestation of modern-day talent really practising what they preach.”

HUNGER, Issue 20, 2021

Kit Connor ▼

“In the rapidly evolving media landscape, a new type of superstar is emerging, and Kit Connor is a prime example. Following his breakout lead role in Netflix’s Heartstopper, I photographed Kit for Hunger magazine, and the response was nothing short of phenomenal. The images, which showcase his unique blend of grace and sensitivity, garnered millions of likes across social media and led to a pre-order sellout of the issue. What truly sets Kit apart, however, is his unwavering support of the LGBTQ+ community and his ability to inspire meaningful communication and empathy between people.”

HUNGER, Issue 24, 2022

Emma Mackey ►

“Another icon in the making, Emma Mackey’s zeitgeist-defining role came when she starred in Netflix’s Sex Education. Her character Maeve’s experiences on the show made a real impact and placed her right at the centre of cultural conversations. Emma radiates intelligence and is a worthy role model for Britain’s youth – I am seriously excited to see where the future takes her.”

HUNGER, Issue 21, 2021

Kelly Knox ▼

“To capture the essence of modern-day Britain we must venture into the digital landscape. Enter THE UNSEEN a project centred on inequitable censorship. Model Kelly Knox’s story personifies our innate British tenacity and willingness to challenge the status quo. Perhaps it’s our punk influences, but Britain’s ability to rival the establishment – be that government bodies, media giants, or even wider societal perceptions – lies at the heart of what makes us great. Since I first met Kelly on Britain’s Missing Top Model she has led the charge in breaking down barriers and proving that disability is no barrier to success.”

THE UNSEEN, 2022

Gundeep Anand ►

“More than anything, I love discovering generationdefining talents. None is more exciting than Gundeep Anand, founder of grassroots football tournament The Last Stand. Championing the UK’s favourite sport as a platform to promote diversity and inclusivity, Gundeep epitomises the power of British communities today and their ability to drive real, tangible change.”

HUNGER, Issue 27, 2023

“The boundless possibilities of today’s technology, from artificial intelligence to deepfakes, never cease to amaze, and it’s no wonder that innovation has always been a hallmark of British creativity. As we look to the future of image-making, one promising technique is volumetric capture, which involves using more than 150 cameras to create a threedimensional sculpture. For my first foray into photographic sculpture, I chose to bring to life a bronze cast of quintessentially British model Ellen Burton, bridging the gap between the digital and the physical and creating a lasting work of art that will endure for generations to come.” wCraftsmanship, quality and heritage make British luxury a trustworthy investment for Japanese consumers

Jordan Amy Lee

ASHLEY OGAWA CLARKE