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FOOD
ODE to the EGG In this Southern standby, the devil’s in the details
E
ggs have been symbols of rebirth and renewal for centuries, which puts them at the center of spring holidays such as Passover and Easter. And to my mind, there’s no finer example of the art of the edible ovoid than that jewel of the South: the deviled egg. Sure, you can fuss with eggs. An Instagram-popular recipe for Middle 32 | WALTER
by DEBBIE MOOSE Eastern shakshuka involves simmering eggs in a spicy tomato-and-onion stew. That’s more effort than I can generally muster in the mornings, particularly pre-coffee. You can strain a wrist muscle trying to neatly turn over an omelet. Generations of kids were needlessly forced to tiptoe around while soufflés were baking — including my husband, whose mother accused him of making
her soufflé fall by walking through the kitchen with his giant teenage feet. Completely untrue, according to cooking science, but it left him with a fear of soufflés. However, the simple perfection that is the deviled egg is within everyone’s grasp, and it uses ingredients most have right at home. It’s truly a snack of the people, and has never been even theo-
