WALTER Magazine - April 2019

Page 66

SAVOR

Executive Chef Eric Montagne of Locals Oyster Bar. he warehouse.

LOCAL PEARL A seafood wholesaler opens its first restaurant inside Transfer Co. Food Hall by JASON FRYE

O

n the wall, a school of mullet swims toward the Carolina coast, the silhouette of barrier islands and the undulating line of mainland stark against the aqua sea. Where I’m standing would be just 66 | WALTER

photography by TAYLOR MCDONALD

beyond the western edge of the map, at the newly-opened Locals Oyster Bar in Raleigh’s Transfer Co. Food Hall, which has slowly been rolling out new vendors. And I’m ready for seafood. Standing in line to order, I’m tempted by the classic fare flying out of the

kitchen—shrimp po’boys, fish and chips, ceviche—but it’s the constant motion of the shuckers that has me mesmerized: Working in near-silence, they grab shell after shell: In less time than it’ll take to read this sentence, they’ll study one for for the briefest of


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