COSTA RICA Sustainable

Plan the perfect green escape in Costa Rica, where there are plenty of ways to lessen your footprint and make a difference while travelling

Words Nikki Solano

Forget any anachronistic images about Tenerife and Gran Canaria you have. Let your mind drift off instead to two intoxicating capital cities set adrift in the deep Atlantic of Macaronesia, part of an archipelago of big skies, cobalt ocean, soaring volcanoes and sweeping beaches; a land where it seems to be springtime year-round.

Life in the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife dates back over two millennia, to when the Canary Islands were inhabited by the Indigenous Guanche people. Much later came the Spanish, who conquered the archipelago in the 1400s and changed life here forever. By the 19th century, Santa Cruz was the capital of the Canaries and one of Europe’s most important ports; by 1927, this capital status was shared with Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, whose rise as a critical port for trade between Europe and the Americas saw it surge in importance over the centuries. Everything on the islands flowed through them. These twin geographical and geopolitical anomalies are part European, yes; but there is also an unmistakable South American swagger, architecturally and culturally, and their proximity to Africa has undoubtedly had a big influence. Yet while the two capitals share so much, they are very different. Their pride at being distinct is exemplified by residents who never tolerate their city names being shortened to Las Palmas or Santa Cruz, even if everyone does it.

Las Palmas’ Latin American vibe conjures Rio comparisons, thanks to the presence of its own Copacabana-style beach, known as Las Canteras, and its lively outdoor lifestyle. It feels like a big capital, and it is – this remains one of Spain’s ten largest cities. It also has many faces, which you see as you sweep south through bustling Santa Catalina and the commercial heart of the city, then on into the old quarter of Vegueta, with its hanging balconies, pretty squares, clusters of churches and the vaulting exterior of the impressive Santa Ana cathedral.

Tenerife’s Santa Cruz, on the other hand, is a stately city of grand streets and leafy parks. It’s deeply Canarian but wears its Spanish architectural and cultural influences on its sleeve. It is also home to, reputedly, the second biggest carnival in the world, after Rio, so strap in for a party – residents demonstrate admirable creativity and stamina. This spirit ripples on year-round in the subversive Carnaval societies of La Noria district. Elsewhere, the Plaza de España sets the tone for a graceful city that is alive with old-world architecture; one where pavement cafés and lush parks abound. Indeed, both capitals have resoundingly embraced outdoor living, so take a pew and join in.

Ask a local

“When I suggest that visitors head for the Vegueta Market, they often come back amazed and tell me they have nothing like it back home. It is a delightful 19th-century alternative to the world of supermarkets. It’s a real human experience too, with room to chat and smile with the colourful stallholders as you shop. The fish counters, in particular, are amazing and put our bountiful Atlantic waters on show. It’s hard to come away from Vegueta without buying anything.”

N, 15.4654° W & 28.4636° N, 16.2518° W