From LEGENDS to LEGACY

THE STORY OF THE ENCHANTED MURALHAS DE FARO (CITY WALLS OF FARO) FINDS ITS ROOTS INTERTWINED WITH THE HISTORY OF THE CITY ITSELF. UNWAVERING IN ITS UNPRETENTIOUS CHARM, THE CAPITAL HARBOURS A REMARKABLY RICH AND UNIQUE HISTORY – A TREASURE TRUNK OF LEGENDS AND STORIES UNKNOWN TO MANY

Words: CHRISTINA MORENO

WAt the heart

Nestled within this womb of Faro is where we can find the hidden archaeological gem, the Muralhas de Faro. This enchanting space has witnessed the human presence and passage of Phoenicians, Romans and Moors along with their many legends that remain fossilized in its history.

HILE FARO today may be perceived by many merely as a transit hub, those who pause to immerse themselves in its authentic Portuguese essence can discover its intangible wealth that extends far beyond its winding cobbled pathways, charming historical buildings, iconic stork nests and allure of al fresco cafes or eateries.

If you haven’t had the chance to explore it yet, consider venturing through one of the three medieval gates leading to the picturesque Vila Adentro, the Inner Town. Still predominantly encircled by the castle wall from the Moorish era, this area is the city’s birthplace – now a mosaic of historical monuments, private residences, cafés, well-known restaurants, museums, galleries and the old beer factory.

Its main square, Largo da Sé, framed around classic orange trees, hosts the town hall, the seminary and the 13th century Santa Maria Cathedral, offering stunning views of the old-town, the Ria Formosa and beyond. Many events continue to take place in and around Vila Adentro each year, such as the ten-day Feira de Santa Iria (Fair of Saint Iria), which is held just outside the castle walls in the big Largo de São Francisco.

Old Town Faro is known for having many legends of enchanted Moorish princesses and hidden treasures. Some of these tales are believed to have originated right within this privately-owned property, which isn’t always open to the public. Many of these stories revolve around a wandering and elusive spellbound princess waiting to be found and freed. In the spirit of these Portuguese legends, the venue itself is worthy of being found and within it, our creativity and imagination set free.

The first time I entered through its tall green gatedoors, I had no idea that the Arco do Repouso, through which I had just passed, and the adjacent towers and old chapel belonged to the same hidden gem. Despite my numerous wanderings through the vicinity, I could never have imagined that a place like this – a vast and stoneencircled oasis graced with a giant bouquet of trees –could be hidden within the bustling Vila Adentro.

Not long after, I had the privilege of delving into its captivating narrative with Architect João Meneses de Oliveira, the current owner-guardian of the largest and the longest only walkable section of the 9th-century castle wall. Enthusiastically, João recounted how the canvas woven from the venue’s rich history and personal anecdotes offer an exclusive setting for hosting cultural feasts of food, arts and interconnection.

A bit of history of Vila Adentro

Archaeological evidence dating back to the 4th century BC suggests that Faro was first named Ossónoba, when the Phoenicians established a trading post in the Largo da Sé, where Faro’s cathedral (once a mosque) still stands today. Growing from a commercial tradepost to an urban centre, Ossónoba thrived throughout Roman and Moorish rule (from 713) thanks to its strategic location, secure harbour and the profitable commerce of fishing and salt. In the 9th century, the city was renamed Santa Maria do Ocidente and fortified with a new wall, a substantial portion of which now belongs to the Muralhas de Faro.

Two noteworthy historical facts from the period before Faro was part of the Portuguese Kingdom: the first is that the old town’s castle wall stood as the sole unconquerable fortress among all other city fortresses in the Algarve region. This was thanks to its strategic positioning –perched on a lofty hill and 80% encircled by the Ria Formosa – rendering it virtually inaccessible to both war machinery and boats due to shallow water levels.

The second noteworthy fact, now widely accepted among scholars, is that Faro was handed over, not seized, by the Portuguese in 1249. The old town was signed over peacefully to the Portuguese King Afonso III – perhaps a relevant reminder that diplomacy holds the power to grow forward, and swords are not the sole shapers of history.

The devastating earthquake in 1755, followed by a massive hurricane two years later, largely demolished the castle wall that nevertheless continued to enclose the city until the late 19th century. The area had been mostly abandoned, sold by the state, and integrated into various private properties. The old town eventually expanded well beyond the Vila Adentro, out to the Bairro Ribeirinho near the marina and the old ‘mouraria’ – now the shopping area –where the Moors were permitted to settle following the Portuguese conquest.

The unique Muralhas de Faro

Owning this property must feel like having, and being part of, your own living storybook. Once a storage lot for war machines, the estate spans 6,625M² and represents 12% of all of Vila Adentro (8% if you count the public streets). The venue is the largest privately-owned space within medieval walls in all of the Mediterranean. It includes the walkable 9th-century Moorish wall, the old cross street Travesa das Freiras, the Bizantine tower, the two albarrana (defensive) towers, the arch and old city door Arco do Repouso, and the chapel of Nossa Senhora do Repouso. Additionally, there are 26 habitable houses within its confines. João’s main private residence and office were constructed against the castle wall itself and there’s even a small ancient well inside, a testament to the depths of its heritage.

A tale of guardianship

The Muralhas holds a personal history that’s as enchanting as its storied past. A tradition was born once the fortress passed into private hands – a tradition steeped in honour, heritage, and destiny. The esteemed privilege of ownership was never to simply be sold, but rather to be bestowed upon for sale to those deemed worthy.

Some of the past owners have included: Canon Francisco Jaques da Fonseca, Manuel Vaz Velhos Sanchez, Francisco Lázaro Cortes (Civil Governor of Faro), Captain-Mor José Ferreira de Sousa Junior, and

Colonel José Cortes Ferreira de Sousa. It was the latter who offered the property for sale to the current family in 1978.

The Menezes de Oliveira family was chosen in tribute to João’s late father, Hermínio do Beato Oliveira, a distinguished architect, artist and poet, whose dream it was to establish a cultural and events space in the form of an art school and galleries.

A cultural space

Since the early 2000s, the Muralhas de Faro has hosted countless private and exclusive dinner-concert parties, high-profile weddings, corporate/incentive gatherings, musical performances and celebrations for renowned international brands like General Motors and Isuzu.

Living forward past the global pandemic, this charming venue continues to offer a dream setting for events that deserve a unique mystical atmosphere. One of the recent private cultural experiences was a re-imagined medieval-style ‘feasting table’, inspired by the combined grandeur, hospitality and camaraderie of medieval feasts and modern day grazing/charcuterie tables.

The venue will continue offering a variety of private custom experiences, featuring curated regional Mediterranean diet ‘tasting plates’ showcasing the bounties of the land and sea. These can be tailored to groups or more intimate experiences, such as private romantic sunset dinners atop one of the towers or the Arco de Repouso itself. And the Muralhas de Faro recently hosted some popular public events, including the city’s Festa do Caracol, and the medieval Mercado das Alcaçarias.

A Living Legacy

The essence of Hermínio’s dream continues to permeate in the exquisite innovative building plans for the Muralhas de Faro, which are currently in the process of preapproval with the city. His son’s mission moving forward remains clear: to offer an exclusive enchanting setting for hosting cultural feasts of food, arts and interconnection. His aspiration is to unite diverse cultural expressions, especially musical performances and the culinary arts.

João continues to envision family-friendly sunset dinner-concerts with multiple stages, eventually catering to two to three generations, complete with a playground where kids can run freely and safely within the enclosure.

In much the same way the old town expanded outward, João hopes to expand some of his cultural events into the three public squares within the Vila Adentro.

The Menezes de Oliveira family look forward to welcoming more exclusive events, clubs and social events as their contribution to the city’s inspiring theme ‘Faro, Cidade Velha, Cidade Viva’ (Faro, Old City, Alive City) and there is every indication they will realise their dream.

I asked João about the legends of the ‘mouras encantadas’: he said there were way too many to tell. In a way, the Muralhas de Faro is like an enchanted moor herself, or like one of those hidden treasures gracefully waiting to be found. She isn’t just another venue; she’s a mystical setting for a continuing historical narrative being created forward in that cultural ambience centered on food, arts and human interconnection.

Last but not least… If you pass by on a Friday or Saturday after 21:00, take a peek to see if the big green gates are open... and if they are, you might be lucky to find its little terrace bar open upstairs. The service is friendly and the barman knows what he is talking about. You could get a drink and have a wander around...keeping your eyes open for the next hidden treasures.

ECENTLY, my wife and I took a trip up to Central Portugal. It was a nostalgic one, as the village we bunked down in is the village that gave birth to both her parents. As a result, there are a multitude of family connections, lifelong family friends and a rich tapestry of relationships interwoven throughout the village.

In my father-in-law ’s day, there were 2,000 inhabitants, now there are roughly 400. Many homes lie abandoned, many others are for sale, but the countryside is still as spectacular as it always was, albeit even more inviting now that the challenges of the past are a little easier to overcome.

In the 40s and 50s, life was based on subsistence farming and the family worked the fields, picking olives, cultivating potatoes and other crops and using everything they harvested. Occasionally, an animal was slaughtered and preserved in large granite containers filled with olive oil. Naturally, when the weather didn’t play ball, crops were spoiled and a life in the city afforded more security. Many people urbanized, including my in-laws.

I’m always on the lookout for a great video opportunity, so before sunrise (after four hours of sleep), I set off for Monsanto, a neighbouring hilltop village. It rises like a large pimple 300 metres above the surrounding plateau and is famous for its rock dwellings. Massive granite boulders have created spaces underneath where locals have built homes sheltering them from harsh variances in weather.

This most Portuguese of Portuguese villages hosted the television series Game of Thrones, and I hiked up to the very top to see what all the fuss was about.