Going Adventuring

IN THE ALENTEJO, THE HEAT SEEMS TO COME NOT ONLY FROM THE SUN, BUT ALSO FROM WITHIN THE GROUND. PEOPLE ARE WARM AND OPEN. THE FOOD IS SIMPLE AND NUTRITIOUS. IT’S THE PERFECT PLACE TO RECHARGE FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS, DESPITE THE TEMPERATURES

Words: SANDRA GATO

Opposite page, The Surf Lodge at Herdade da Matinha. This page: Diagonals, by Joana Vasconcelos, at Palácio de Cadaval; right: time out at Herdade da Matinha; below: lunch beneath the ancient tree at Oliveira Velha

THE ALENTEJO has always been a happy place for me. It has its own rhythm and, as soon as you get there –being it a coastline or interior destination – you start to move in a slower pace. I always felt that the hours are longer in the Alentejo and silence feels more intense, allowing you to have more time to spend with your own thoughts.

Some people say that the Alentejo is too hot during the summer months – it is true that it’s where the highest temperatures in the whole country are usually registered – but the way the ‘Alentejanos’ deal with the extreme heat shows how it is possible to cope. It is simple, really: you wake up earlier when the weather is fresher, you take a siesta after lunch and you enjoy the coolness of the evening.

And there are so many incredible places to enjoy! Besides the beautiful unspoilt beaches of Costa Vicentina – Zambujeira do Mar, Porto Covo, Vila Nova de Milfontes – and the delicious unpretentious food, there is a great number of other experiences to be had in the region.

I leave you with some of my favourite (old or recent passions) as an inspiration for a couple of ‘get-away-from-the-crowds’ days.

Herdade da Matinha

Many years before the words ecology and sustainability were part of our everyday vocabulary, Alfredo Moreira da Silva bought this farm in Cercal do Alentejo. He had studied art in Porto and lived for a while in Australia but something brought him back to Portugal and led him to this place that became his home. “For a while there was no water or electricity,” he recalls. “A stream flowed nearby and at night we never got tired of gazing at those millions of stars. Everything was just as the last resident, a sheperd, had left it. So, we lived just like him, and soon, my family and I came to realize that you don’t need much more to be happy.” .

From 1996 to this day, Herdade da Matinha grew but the idea was always to keep the rural spirit intact. The energy you feel here is unique and it comes from every single detail: the farm’s dog that at breakfast time on the terrace brings you an orange so you can throw and play with him; the rose garden that stands as a homage to Alfredo’s grandfather, one of the biggest rose producers in his time; the dinner at Mesa, an organic restaurant that is actually a family table where everything tastes real because it is; the art gallery where Alfredo spends a lot of his time (some of his paintings are for sale and, if you’re lucky, he will be there and ready to share curious stories about Herdade da Matinha’s evolution).

“We learnt how to appreciate the small miracles of nature and it becomes meaningful to pass that on to our children and to the guests who come to us. Then, we added on comfort, flavours and colours, but left the essence unchanged,” explains Alfredo.

Respect for the seasons, the animals of the countryside, and the local community is the definition of luxury here.

The unpaved road to get to there is a choice; it’s a way of making people slow down and enjoy the ride or the sunset as they arrive at this haven of tranquility.

In Herdade da Matinha there are art pieces in every corner and places where you can sit with your book (or just yourself) for a while. But, when you are ready for more activity, the sea is just 15km away, so a swim or a surf or Stand Up Paddle session is a possibility. There are also some beautiful hiking or bike trails and unbelievable spots for picnics.

Matinha has five different buildings: The Owner’s House – Alfredo’s former private residence and now the main building; The Old House – a traditional white cottage with spectacular views to the mountains; The Surf Lodge – created for those who have surfboards, bikes and furry companions; The Family Farmhouse – especially designed for groups; The Rose Club – an adults-only building, inspired in the local rural barns with its private swimming pool and gardens.

Warning: before you leave, you will feel tempted – unquestionably – to book your next stay... and why not?

Cercal do Alentejo, Alentejo 7555-231

T: 968 848 579

E: nacional.reservas@herdadedamatinha.com

W: herdadedamatinha.com

Visiting the city of Évora is always a delight. Any excuse is a good one but I have two amazing reasons to head there this summer:

Obrigado à Terra

First, Obrigado à Terra, Contemporary Ceramics exhibition. Last year it was to see the wonderful Love Marrakech – Opened My Eyes to Colour, an exhibition about the passion of fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent for Morocco and its culture. This year (until December 10), Contemporary Ceramics has all the protagonism it deserves. Set in the breathtaking Palácio de Cadaval – located in the centre of Évora, in front of the famous Temple of Diana – 35 different artists brought together by the gallerist Pierre Passebon, the curater of Obrigado à Terra, commissioned by the sisters Diana and Alexandra de Cadaval, in charge of the palace’s programme.

“With these 35 artists, we enter a completely different world of contemporary ceramics. No piece is like any other, showing the incredible creativity of artists working in this art form, from renowned figures to emerging talent,” explains Alexandra de Cadaval.

Nature is the the star here, with ceramics a form of art that includes the four elements – earth, air, water and fire. Besides talent and perfect technique, there’s a lot of humour here as well as social criticism observed in the various pieces displayed. Adam Miller, Agathe Brahami-Ferron, Roger Herman, Laurent Dufour and Portugal’s own Bela Silva and Joana Vasconcelos are some of the artists whose vision and creativity are on display in Évora over the next months. Proof that great art is not the reserve of big cities like Lisbon. Look, and you will find treasures elsewhere.

7000-845 Evora

T: 919 588 474

E: info@palaciocadaval.com

W: palaciocadaval.com

Oliveira Velha

This is my second reason to visit Évora. It’s one of the most captivating ideas I was lucky enough to come across recently. João Rosado, the owner of a small olive oil business (done as it should be, respecting tradition and ancient knowledge) called O Amor É Cego, in Azaruja (near Évora) together with his italian chef friend, Francesco Ogliari, owner of Tua Madre, an incredible out-of-the-box restaurant that opened in Évora in 2020, created Oliveira Velha, a project that consists of a series of lunches/dinners that take place under a 2,000 year old olive tree.

In an outstanding scenario, a group of only 12 people at a time will be able to visit the olive grove, taste the olive oil and have a five course meal afterwards, in an ‘Italian flavours meets local products’ kind of way, with a superb wine selection, €140pp. The best dishes served in a magical setting, where every detail was taken into consideration. There’s no better way of spending a summer evening.

Monte da Oliveira Velha 7035 Évora

T: 960 117 714 or 924 281 551

E: joao.rosado@azeiteamorecego.pt

W: instagram.com/azeiteamorecego/

GYM OR NO GYM, ADDING WEIGHT TRAINING INTO YOUR EXERCISE REGIME IS A MUST. A HOME WORKOUT ROUTINE IS WHAT’S NEEDED

Words: SALLY DIXON