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AND f inally

AND f inally

Words: Niquette Longmuir

SITTING on your bike leaving the village of Esteval dos Mouros

‘Rock Rose of the Moors’ towards Alte, take the last track on the right before the main road, marked by the red and white posts of the Via Algarviana.

Follow the track uphill winding through fields of carob and olive trees. Suddenly, appearing out of nowhere, as you turn the last corner, is the abandoned village of Rocha Amarela (Yellow Rock).

It is a spectacle of the crumbling remains of what was a small collection of houses mostly attached together in a long row. When the youngest residents moved to cities where there was more opportunity to work and socialise, their parents refused to leave their homes choosing to die in the village where they had been born. The ‘Aldeias’ or empty villages are not uncommon and are often set in remote areas in exposed countryside. This one was abandoned about 60 years ago and has views which look across the orange groves towards the distant dark mountains of Monchique.

As we ride off, there is a feeling of sadness at the loss of what was a tiny close knit community and is now a deserted shell of eerie quietness.

Alfontes to Paragil

Biking up the small road opposite the bus stop in Alfontes, heading past Loopers restaurant, you instantly clock the views to your right, which become more impressive as you gain elevation. Gradually, the landscape expands unfolding a 180 degree view of the Algarve countryside in the direction of the long Falesia beach. From here you can spot lots of familiar places.

At the top of the hill opposite another old windmill at a height of 300 metres turn left and ride the descent towards Paragil. You pass a villa fenced with ornate topiary, positioned on a sharp bend, and stop and park in the layby directly opposite. You are now looking out on to an astonishing view towards the white buildings of Faro in the distance, spotting the hill that everyone knows but has never climbed (well worth it) above Loulé train station. On your left is Loulé with the large domed white church, a significant feature on the landscape. Glance over to the right and you will see Vilamoura and its taller buildings perched on its harbour.

This is the rideout of both familiar sittings and unexpected panoramas.

Alte

This is perfect for a family or group outing – a fun way to spend a few Algarvian hours seeing a lot in a short time and enjoying a refreshing dip in the stunning Queda do Vigário waterfall or swimming in the Fonte Grande.

The bike route takes you on the narrow street opposite the Igreja Matriz de Alte, past all of the colourful doors heading up and around to the right. As you climb, you can’t fail to miss the gigantic flag of Portugal on the right side, painted onto an entire hillside of rock. We still cannot find out how or why it got there – does anyone have any idea?

Gazing down you will see the Fonte Grande and the modern outdoor theatre. At the top, reaching almost 500 metres and just before it descends, hang a sharp left into a lovely picnic area with tables and stools carved in local stone. Facing you is the most spectacular backdrop of Algarvian hills and mountains facing North with fields of rusty orange coloured soil , orchard groves and dotted in between with white washed villages and trails scattered in all directions. A multi coloured feast for the eyes!

Baranco do Velho

This is where it all began for the DirtEbikers. We walked these sections of trails during lockdown, wondering how we could ride these routes on electric bikes to show people the real Algarve, hidden from tourist hotspots.

Starting from section 6 and heading towards Salir at a height of 500m, the trail passes through untouched pines, oaks and medronho trees (the fruit used for making Portuguese firewater) into an open vista. It is magnificent looking down through the valleys and hills and surprisingly is only 30 minutes from the coast.

Our favourite first bike stop is the Faranhaao Windmill or August Threshing

Floor Windmill where you have a panoramic view over the mountains and the sea. This is a place to relax in the beauty of the setting whilst recharging with a picnic break. Then descending into Carrascalinho down through the wild ravines and across the flatter farmlands arriving in Salir.

This is an adventurous ride out often biking through undulating and uninterrupted scenic beauty finished with a village feast and the best of local cuisine.

The Buddhist Temple

Situated in Moinho do Malho, one of the highest peaks in the Loulé region standing at a height of 537 metres and approximately 20kms from the coast, the Temple sits majestically at the summit, perfectly at one with the surrounding natural beauty of the Alentejo mountains.

Begin your visit with a drink or a bite to eat at the small cafe Miramar, catching a glimpse of the distant sea sparkling in the sunlight. Then ride up the stony drive towards the temple and its surrounding flags. At the top of the small steps it is respectful to walk clockwise around the temple – it is said to instill a good, positive spirit and encourage healing and beneficial effects.

There are many trails that encompass this special spot. We have ridden most of them now but this is the one DirtEbikers trip that we really look forward to - the final leg up to the Stupa Budista.

Paderne

This is a ride of contrasts and one of our DirtEbiker favourites.

After heading under the A22 motorway you ascend up towards the 12th century Paderne Castle. It is one of the seven castles Portugal took back from the Moors (featured on the Portuguese flag).

Facing the castle ruins you head left along the narrow winding path looking south towards the Ponte Medieval de Paderne, which stands proudly amongst rolling countryside adorned with fig, carob, olive and almond trees.

This medieval stone bridge built in the Roman style over the Quarteira River on the Via Lusitanorum road connects the Roman cities of Olisipio (Lisbon) and Ossonoba (Faro). It is a three-span simple structure whose central arch is engraved with the renovation date of 1771. The repairs were carried out after the bridge suffered damage in the great 1755 Earthquake.

Riding the electric bikes along this ancient bridge makes you feel a strong connection to history – the modern and ancient worlds coming together. It is both a humbling and empowering ride.

Russ Longmuir and Brad Dodd own DirtEbikes which is based in Estrada Quinta do Lago. It’s an easy way to go adventuring.

914 026 035 | info@dirtebikers.com @dirtebikers | dirtebikers.com

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