Ericeira

THIS HAS BEEN MY HAPPY PLACE EVER SINCE I CAN REMEMBER. THE FISHING VILLAGE THAT I GREW UP IN IS CHANGING, BUT KEEPING ITS AUTHENTICITY INTACT. I WENT TO CHECK OUT THE NEW PLACES AND REVISIT SOME OLD TRADITIONS

Words: SANDRA GATO

THEY SAY the sea is bluer in Ericeira. Maybe. But more than any beautiful colour what keeps me going time and time again is the ocean’s aroma and the way it seems to talk to you.

This is a temperamental kind of Atlantic, moody and unpredictable. As a child, I remember spending the summer mornings in a sweater because the sun only made its royal appearence after midday. That gave us plenty of time to spend the first part of the day going to the market to buy fish just brought in by the local fishermen, sitting around in the cafés having long breakfasts or going for walks on the beach.

It still is like that. It can be an astonishing summer day in Lisbon but you never know what kind of weather you can expect after driving 40 minutes (Ericeira is really that close to the capital, one of the reasons so many people are choosing to live there).

A small fishing village, Ericeira has a strong personality that will never try to be the sea/sun summer destination eager to please tourists.

Classified as a World Surfing Reserve, the white and blue house village of my childwood is changing in many ways. I like its new found sophistication – with the recent opening of two 5-star hotels – and the way it welcomes people of all kinds of cultures. But I love its old traditions and the fact that the biscuit shop (my favourite in the whole world) is still there. Let’s keep it that way, shall we?

IMMERSO Rooms with a view

Love the name, love the logo (a stylish wave), love that Ericeira finally has a proper 5-star hotel, love the location – not beach front but with a beautiful view from the green fields ending in Praia de São Lourenço – love the feeling it gave me when passing through the door; laid back luxury, the crackling of the wood in the fireplace, a glass of wine as a welcoming treat, smiley people that made you feel right at home.

What is not to love? Well, the fact that it was only for one night because, as anyone reading so far has probably guessed, I could live in Ericeira!

All of the 37 rooms (different types, more or less the same view) are nested in the valley where Immerso is situated. The pool is in the upper level of the property, as well as the restaurant. Its name is Emme and is an absolute new must when going to Ericeira. Mentored by chef Alexandra Silva (the creative mind and hand from LOCO, one Michelin star, and Fogo), it takes the best local produce to another level. Expect real flavours paired with delicious wines (that can be finished by the fire, inside or outside. Also, under chef Alexandra’s wing, is an outside restaurant (just for private events for now) in a breathtaking setting.

The mood is natural, organic. And you can feel that in all the materials chosen for building and decorating the whole hotel and even in the art pieces, which are mainly from Portuguese contemporary artists. The giant sea urchin that sits right outside the front door is the work of Paulo Reis. (The word Ericeira comes from ouriço, sea urchin, because the village’s coastal line is said to be home of the best sea urchins).

Immerso

Rua Bica da Figueira

Santo Isidoro, Ericeira

T: 261 104 420

W: immerso.pt

Aethos Ericeira is part of a group that understands the travellers’ love of comfort. Below: La Barraqe is a quiet place of enchantment, with wonderful artworks by

Aethos Ericeira

The international vibe

The worldy spirit of The Aethos group – their belief is that travel and hospitality must be an experience with a positive and lasting impact on body and soul – arrived at Ericeira last September. Built on the top of a cliff overlooking the ocean, this is a place made for disconnecting and contemplation, like in any of the other Aethos in Milan, Corsica or CampZero in the Italian Alps. More than just a hotel, Aethos is a global community of people who share the same concept of travelling – and living.

There are 50 rooms and suites that appeal both to the modern luxury traveller, digital nomads and surfers alike. Together, studio Astet from Barcelona and Portuguese architect Luís Pedra Silva have created a space that captures and enhances the textures and the unique light of the region while, at the same time, building the kind of comfort ambience where everyone can feel at ease.

Aethos Ericeira

Rua da Estalagem

Encarnação

T: 261 244 510

W: Aethoshotels.com

La Barraque

An artistic shack

It probably is the coolest shack in the country: it has an incredible view over the ocean, a skate park and art by Bordallo II (the Portuguese plastic artist known for making art pieces out of trash). Here, in La Barraque (The Shack in French), birds (seagulls, I would say) were chosen to give life to this spot that can be so many things. It hosts private events (a very interesting summer market, just to name one) and is also a bar (check before going because it still does not have regular opening hours).

It belongs to You and the Sea, the hotel situated nearby. André Rebelo, the chef of the hotel’s restaurant, Jangada, is the one responsible for the snacks served at La Barraque. He also uses the land around the shack as his vegetable garden.

The perfect, secluded spot when you just need a couple of hours of sea breeze, a few drinks and good company.

La Barraque

Rua das Silvas, 2, Ericeira

T: 261 243 370

W: youandthesea.pt

Casa Gama

Freshly baked

My first memory is of going there in the morning, with my grandmother, to buy queques (still the best cupcakes for me) to eat later at the beach... The fabulous smell of baking that hits you as soon as you enter Casa Gama stayed with me to this day and is as conforting as a hug from a favourite aunt.

Casa Gama is not a café or a pastelaria. It is a small place that sells three varieties of biscuits (cinnamon, butter and areias – extra butter!) and the cakes (queques – cupcakes, ouriços –a tradicional almond cake, and tortas – pies). Decorated with biscuits tins, the best recipient to keep your purchase in perfect condition for a long time, this family business, which opened in 1963, is one that I wish continues exactly as it is for a long long time.

Casa Gama

Calçada da Baleia 9, Ericeira

T: 261 864 917