Know your oranges

ORANGE WINE IS A BIT OF A MISNOMER – THERE ARE NO ORANGES INVOLVED IN ITS MAKING. IT'S A TYPE OF WHITE WINE MADE BY LEAVING THE GRAPE SKINS AND SEEDS IN CONTACT WITH THE JUICE, CREATING AN ORANGE-HUED FINISH

Words: LÍVIA MOKRI

SALES OF ORANGE WINE have exploded in recent years, though its history goes back for thousands: it is possible, in fact, that orange wine was the first type of wine to be produced from white grapes.

Just think of an orange wine as a white wine made in the red wine process. In white winemaking, you usually press the grapes and separate the juice from the skins, whereas with orange wine, the juice is left to macerate on both the skins and the stems. This not only turns the juice a shade of orange, but also gives the wine body, tannins, and an added complexity. The skin maceration process for these wines can last anywhere between a couple of hours to some months, resulting in wines that vary greatly in colour and flavour.

The taste of orange wines is very different from that of regular whites as the oxidation imparts a sour taste and nuttiness, and colours might range from cloudy lemon to dark amber.

In terms of grape varieties, aromatic vines such as Arinto or Alvarinho tend to lend themselves well to orange wine because these grapes can be overbearingly flowery on the nose, but having time on the skins can rein in those aromatics, giving them structure and a bit more acidity that develops into something quite interesting.

The flavour of orange wine can be surprising, and it’s an exciting experience for novices. These wines are described as robust and bold. On the palate, they are bulky and dry, have some tannins, and high acidity in the first year. Although each orange wine has its own personality (depending on the variety of grape, the terroir, the time it is left to macerate, etc.), they tend to have complex aromas of candied fruit, nuts, and spices. Here in Portugal, these wines are also called Vinho de Curtimenta.

Tanning is the term used in the country to designate this winemaking method, used in general for reds and some rosés, in which the must macerates and ferments in contact with the skins, pips and stems.

Orange wines (or tanning whites) are whites that also follow this particular vinification method. They are produced in many areas of this country, but the Alentejo has long been the guardian of the tradition of orange wines, which are intrinsically linked to the history, culture and social life of the region.

Celebration time

In the Alentejo, these wines are mostly made in pots called ‘talha’, used for fermenting grape juice and storing various liquids, especially wine and olive oil. The talhas are made from clay and therefore porous, and the inside is coated with an impermeable surface, such as pine resin.

After the harvest, the grapes are crushed and then put inside the clay pots, where fermentation spontaneously takes place. During this period, the grape pulp and skins rise to the surface and form a solid mass. This is punched with a wooden plunger and is pushed back down into the must to transmit more colour, aroma and flavour to the wine.

When fermentation is complete, the mass settles to the bottom of the talha, near the bottom of which there is a hole that is closed with a cork stopper – a ‘batoque’ – that keeps the wine from dripping out.

This talha wine is traditionally declared ready to drink on 11 November, Saint Martin’s Day (Feira de São Martinho), the high point in each year’s celebration of the millenary relationship between the Alentejo and orange wine.

At the ceremony, the wine is consumed very quickly in the traditional Alentejo pubs and wineries so it is fast to run out. As an accompaniment, seasonal dishes – quince, walnuts, chestnuts, and a wide range of local delicacies, especially the famous Alentejo black pork – are offered.

The wine that’s left will end up in stainless steel tanks. Alternatively, it can be bottled after the addition of a small amount of sulfur dioxide.

If you are thinking about food pairing, orange wines are super versatile. I think that meat is a great choice. The combination of acidity, white-grape freshness and tannins makes orange wine a good partner with lamb or spicy stews, curries, grilled meats, and even strong cheeses.

Because of their boldness, orange wines also pair well with Moroccan dishes or traditional Japanese cuisine. However, these wines are great to sip before starting a meal or while transitioning from a main course to dessert.

Best enjoyed

When it comes to serving, do not drink an orange wine too cold – if you chill it down too much it mutes the flavours and aromas. For storage, I would suggest cellar temperature, then to serve it at 12-14°C. Because orange wines tend to have a little more tannin and structure than white wines, they benefit from a bit of oxygen in the glass. Choose a larger glass than you would for a white wine so that those more complex aromas get a chance to open up.

Orange wine is a discovery of new aromas, new textures in the mouth, and a cultural tradition dating back to when man first made wine. A taste of history, so to speak.

Do not look for a supermarket purchase – head instead for wine shops or buy directly at the wineries.