On the tread mill

LAST MONTH WE TOOK YOU ON A JOURNEY OF EARLY HARVESTING IN THE ALGARVE. THIS MONTH, WE ’ RE UP IN THE DOURO, TREADING OUR WAY TO GLORIOUS NEW WINES

Words: LÍVIA MOKRI Lagares

YOU’VE ALMOST certainly seen the classic photo of people arm in arm treading grapes in Portuguese wineries, singing, laughing and loving every minute of the ‘Pisa a Pé’ experience, a lively, ancient tradition that dates back to ancient Rome, and brings together producers, tourists, and friends every year at harvest time. This foot-treading technique basically serves to increase the extraction of colour, aromas, and flavours from the grapes, and is one used by the Port wine producers in the Douro, a region which comprises thousands of vineyard plots, each with its own individual characteristics shaped by factors including the age of the vines, the varieties planted, and the sun orientation. All of these make the region a rich source of grapes for production of a vast selection of quality wines, where the grapes are trodden by foot in granite tanks known as ‘lagares’

A lagar is a low rectangular tank usually made of granite. The largest one can hold up to nine tons of grapes, although to produce wines it is not necessary to fill them to capacity.

Wine is the result of fermentation, the transformation of fruit sugar into alcohol. But before that process, there is the maceration stage. The grapes are kept in the lagares for a number of days during, which time the solid parts rise to the top of the tank to form what is called the ‘cap’. In the daily foot-treading process, the cap is punched down to keep it in contact with the must, so that the essential characteristics of the wine – its body, tannins, and aromas – are extracted.

Of course, not all of the harvested grapes are taken to the lagares; throughout the harvest, the best grapes are selected for the Reserve wines and those are chosen for treading.

The whole process is guided step-by-step by the winemaking team who decides how long each phase should last, as well as the winemaking techniques to be used at each point.

Pisa a Pé

The first stage of treading consists of crushing the grapes, which are still relatively hard, to release the juice and pulp from their skins. And in the next stage, the treaders move freely in the lagares, ensuring that the grape skins are kept submerged under the surface of the wine. This phase is vital for the production of quality Port wine.

Although expensive and laborious, Pisa a Pé is still the best way to achieve smooth but complete extraction.

The great advantage of this foot-treading process is that it removes the maximum of the skin and seeds, and also provides polyphenols, tannins, and other compounds, producing wines with depth of structure and flavour.

Currently, because of the labour and cost involved, most producers have switched to automatic presses, which are capable of imitating the movements of the human foot.

In case the producer chooses to do the maceration process by Pisa a Pé, the foot crushes the berries in a delicate way, which is more natural than the machine method, which simulates human movement.

Foot-treading allows for greater extraction of colour and aromas as the act of squeezing the grapes is more intense and time-consuming, increasing the contact of the skins with the must. It is the skins that will bring aromas, structure, and colour to the wine. With foot treading, crushing takes several hours, in contrast to the minutes it takes with an automatic press, in which unwanted elements such as seeds are broken down, giving a bitterness and herbaceous aroma to the wine. It is recognised that wines produced by foot-treading show aromatic intensity and character.

In addition, the width of the lagares allows a greater amount of liquid to have prolonged contact with the skins of the grapes. This traditional process lasts a few days, and the more intense and time-consuming, the more colours and flavours the wine will incorporate. This technique, however, is often only used for great wines.

In the case of the mechanical option, there is always the risk of breaking the pips, which would lend an unnecessary astringency to the wine. Foot-treading, on the other hand, avoids that risk. For Port wines, however, the wineries maintain the tradition of treading the grapes by foot.

Wine tourism

While most wine producers have, in fact, switched from the traditional Pisa a Pé method to the automatic pressing machine to save both time and expense, wine tourism does keep this thousand-year-old system alive, and there are wine producers in Portugal – mostly in the Douro region – who maintain this custom for the sake of tourists.

These wineries welcome, in addition to family and friends, curious and enthusiastic tourists who help them and leave with an unforgettable experience.

The presence of ancient granite or marble presses brings a special charm to any cellar, and the treading process itself is an attraction for thousands of tourists every year.

Pisa a Pé has a special charm, with people stepping on the grapes in a synchronized and rhythmic manner, a methodical process, which usually ends in a more relaxed, festive atmosphere.

When you participate in a harvest at a winery, you pick the grapes alongside the rest of the harvesting team. Here, you will gain a deep understanding of the work, which goes on in the vineyards throughout the year, and the various wine-growing techniques employed by the estate. This ‘learning’ experience concludes with the magical opportunity to tread the harvested grapes in the traditional lagares.

Grapes are traditionally trodden to music, with linked arms, cheerfulness, and – occasionally, but unsurprisingly – glasses of wine.

Before the treading, of course, all the participants wash and sterilize their legs and feet prior to climbing into the vat full of cold, ruby-coloured liquid.

But you don’t have to worry! The seeds also have an exfoliating effect so by the time the hour is up, your feet and legs will feel beautifully smooth. And be a shade of purple!

So, if you want to try this fun treading process, you need to participate in a harvest. There are many wineries in the Douro that warmly welcome you – here are just a few of them:

QUINTA DA PACHECA https://quintadapacheca.com/pt/pages/harvestexperiences

QUINTA DA ROÉDA (CROFT PORT) https://croftport.com/en/quinta-da-roeda-winetourism/grape-treading/

QUINTA DE VARGELLAS (TAYLOR’S PORT) https://www.taylor.pt/en/port-wine-vineyards/ quinta-de-vargellas

QUINTA DO CRASTO https://quintadocrasto.pt/wine-tourism/?lang=en