Wanted in Rome - May 2017 by Wanted in Rome

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The english language magazine in Rome

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art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 5

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no. 5 / MAY 2017 editorials

ITALY SHELTERS UNACCOMPANIED FOREIGN MINORS Laura Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 A MAD EMPEROR’S DREAM IN 3D Margaret Stenhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT IN ROME Andy Devane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 festivals in italy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 sport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 7 June and 5 July. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 28 May (for 7 June) and 25 June (for 5 July). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Bricksit by Seth Ex Mira Lanza Museum M.A.G.R. Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom Via Antonio Avogadro Project by 999Contemporary www.999contemporary.com

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Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 01/05/2017

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HUMANITARIAN

Photo Jonathan Hyams for Save the Children.

Laura Clarke

ITALY SHELTERS UNACCOMPANIED FOREIGN MINORS Complicated legal procedures for minors and inadequate reception facilities drive many youngsters to abandon the system and make their own way

iazza Fiume may seem an unlikely place for a night shelter for unaccompanied foreign minors* in transit through Rome. Yet every evening at around 21.00 a group of youngsters, typically aged between 14 and 17, makes the trek to A28 in Via Aniene 28 for food, clean clothes, a warm bed and the love and support of a small group of staff including a former unaccompanied foreign minor from Afghanistan who now studies political science at Rome’s Sapienza University during the day. The shelter, run by Italian humanitarian organisation Intersos since 2011, has capacity for around 30 youngsters, although at the time of writing the actual number using the

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

facility was lower. However, the operators said that with the onset of good weather and the consequent increase in sea crossings from north Africa the number is expected to grow. Significantly they also reported that this is the first year that A28 has never been empty. Initially Afghans represented the largest national group using the shelter, but they have now been overtaken by Eritreans fleeing indefinite military service in the volatile Horn of Africa country. The large majority of guests are boys, and in the absence of separate sleeping arrangements girls have to make do with inflatable mattresses in the staff offices. Most stay for just a few nights before continuing their

journey north. However, the operators said increasingly they are seeing unaccompanied minors return to A28 having been turned away at the border crossings at Ventimiglia, Como or Brenner. They also reported that a growing number of adolescents are now deciding to remain in Italy and begin integration programmes due to a greater understanding of the difficulties of pursuing their original plans to join friends or family in other parts of Europe. In 2016 181,436 migrants and refugees landed on Italy’s shores, up nearly 18 per cent over the previous year according to interior ministry figures. Of these 25,846 – or 14 per cent – were unaccompanied foreign minors, over

HUMANITARIAN twice the number that arrived in 2015. In addition, on the basis of the same percentage it can be assumed that around 700 of the over 5,000 migrants known to have died during the sea crossing to Italy in 2016 were unaccompanied minors, who had to face the horror of death by suffocation, crushing or drowning without a parent or other carer to hold their hand. The jump in the number of unaccompanied minors travelling to Italy can be explained by the fact that “families in countries that do not qualify for the right to asylum are increasingly sending out their young people as a sort of advance guard”, according to Stefania Congia, head of the protection of foreign minors division of the immigration and integration policies department at the labour ministry. This is partly because in theory minors cannot be expelled other than for security reasons and automatically receive a permit of stay ‘for minority age’. More importantly, Congia pointed out that “only young people are able to survive the hardship of the journey to Europe”, which often includes a long and dangerous trek across the Sahara and/or a period of imprisonment, beating and torture in Libyan jails.

There were 17,373 unaccompanied foreign minors present in Italy as of 31 December 2016, up 45.7 per cent over the previous year according to labour ministry figures. Boys accounted for 93.7 per cent of the total, although the percentage of girls was on the rise. Over half came from – in descending order – Egypt, Albania, Eritrea, Gambia and Nigeria and almost all were approaching the age of majority, with 17 year olds alone accounting for 56.6 per cent, followed by 16 year olds at 26 per cent and 15 year olds at 9.8 per cent. In addition, the labour ministry reported that at the end of last year 6,561 unaccompanied foreign minors were officially ‘missing’, or irreperibili, having disappeared after being identified and assigned to a host structure. Of these, Egyptians were the biggest group by nationality (22.4 per cent), followed by Eritreans (21 per cent) and Somalis (19.1 per cent). These youngsters are of special concern to children’s rights organisations because they are particularly vulnerable to exploitation by smugglers and criminal organisations for illegal work, prostitution and the human organ trade. Furthermore, the official number of missing may only represent the tip of

the iceberg, as many youngsters may have slipped through the net before the authorities even became aware that they existed. In addition, in order not to get caught up in the complicated bureaucratic procedures for minors many lie about their age. The irreperibili are largely the result of a break-down in the guardianship system and pressure on migrant reception facilities in Italy. These two factors combine to create uncertainty and frustration, driving impatient and determined young people to abandon their host structures and make their own way. Unaccompanied minors need a guardian in order to complete all administrative procedures including applying for asylum, relocation and family reunification. In theory, the appointment should be made within 48 hours of the communication by the police authorities, but in reality the process can take much longer. In his extremely comprehensive and unbiased report of his fact-finding mission to Italy in October 2016 the Council of Europe’s special representative on migration and refugees Tomáš Boček explains how this “creates a vacuum in terms of the child’s protection: no-one takes re-

A group of young Eritreans at a migrant reception centre in Pozzallo, Sicily.

May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

HUMANITARIAN sponsibility for progressing him or her through the system.” In principle, the mayor of the municipality where the child is received is appointed as guardian, but the large concentration of unaccompanied minors in some places means that these mayors may have hundreds of children under their guardianship. Boček reports, for example, that in summer 2016 the mayor of Palermo was the guardian of 1,200 unaccompanied children, although by the time of his visit the number had fallen to 540. Consequently, the mayors tend to delegate their guardianship duties to the local social services or to the migrant reception facility directly. However, these organisations are typically very busy and have little time to provide the kind of constant and individual attention that is required. Positive change could be in store following definitive approval by parliament in late March of a long-awaited law improving protection for unaccompanied foreign minors in Italy. The provisions have been hailed by international and non-governmental organisations as the first comprehensive law in Europe specifically addressing this issue. The law overhauls the reception system for unaccompanied minors, creating dedicated first reception centres and more places in second tier facilities and a shorter transfer time (a maximum of 30 days rather than the present 60) between the two. Importantly, it also puts a new emphasis on accommodation in foster families, which are now considered priority with respect to institutionalised care. In addition, responsibility for appointing a guardian has passed from the ordinary court to the juvenile court. This, according to Congia of the labour ministry, should simplify and accelerate procedures considerably. Crucially, the new law also establishes lists at every juvenile court of voluntary potential guardians (tutori volontari) who have been specially trained

A member of Italy’s Red Cross assists an unaccompanied child in Sicily.

and declared eligible by the regional guarantor for infancy and adolescence. For information about training in Lazio see the website www.garanteinfanzia. regione.lazio.it. The law also introduces a total ban on turning unaccompanied foreign minors away at the Italian border and a new standardised procedure for identification and age assessment in the absence of official documents. In addition, it provides for the creation of a cartella sociale, or social-work file, to accompany the child through the system. Last but not least, it introduces a gentler transition period for those reaching the age of majority with the possibility of remaining in care until the age of 21. Meanwhile NGOs and other groups continue to provide parallel services for unaccompanied foreign minors struggling to make their way in Italy. In Rome, it is the case of A28 – which is set to move to larger premises in the eastern suburb of Torre Spaccata this summer – and of the wifi, phone-charging and medical services provided by an Intersos mobile team at Tiburtina sta-

tion. It is also the case of Civico Zero, a bustling day centre set up by Save the Children in the S. Lorenzo district offering psychosocial and legal assistance and creative activities, and of the basic support provided by the tenacious civil society organisation Baobab Experience near Tiburtina station. In helping Italy meet its ‘parental duty’ towards these vulnerable young people all too often it is civil society organisations and concerned individuals that are called to step in.

Unaccompanied minors: a legal definition In Italy an unaccompanied foreign minor is defined as anyone under the age of 18 who does not have Italian or other EU citizenship, has not applied for asylum and is, for any reason, within the territory of the state without care or representation by their parents or other adults who are legally responsible for them under existing Italian laws. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY

Margaret Stenhouse

A MAD EMPEROR’S DREAM IN 3D Virtual reality transports visitors to the opulent past of Rome’s Domus Aurea

he Domus Aurea as You’ve Never Seen it Before is the name of the new virtual reality experience awaiting visitors to the recently re-opened “Golden House”. However, it would be equally appropriate to call it The Domus Aurea as Nero Saw It. Thanks to years of dedicated work by archaeologists and restorers, and

with the added magical touch of today’s high tech, a visit to the ruined palace on the Colle Oppio has been transformed from a rather dry tour of empty halls and faded frescoes into a fascinating event that brings the past vividly and visibly to life. Unless you have an archaeologist’s eye and an exceptional gift of imagination, the palace, seen in the nude,

The Domus Aurea reconstructed in 3D virtual reality.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

looks pathetically bleak – a tortuous maze of rambling underground corridors and rooms. It has preserved very little of its original glory, when it was described by the Roman satirist, Suetonius: “The entrance-hall was large enough to contain a huge statue of himself [i.e. Nero], 120 feet high … and the pillared arcade ran for a whole mile. An enormous pool, like a sea, was sur-

HISTORY

The Octagonal Room with its open eye.

rounded by buildings made to resemble cities, and by a landscape garden … Parts of the house were overlaid with gold and studded with precious stones and mother-of-pearl. All the diningrooms had ceilings of fretted ivory, the panels of which could slide back and let a rain of flowers, or of perfume from hidden sprinklers, shower upon his guests.” Whether or not Nero was actually responsible for the fire of Rome, he certainly took advantage of all the space cleared to build himself a pleasure dome that remained a legend. After the allegedly mad Nero committed suicide, the palace was stripped of all its costly marbles and adornments. Trajan, who succeeded as emperor after a series of shortlived rulers, built his equally sumptuous baths on top, filling in the once magnificent halls and corridors with rubble. Ironically, his action saved it for future generations. The Domus Aurea was originally a gigantic estate occupying 80 hectares and spread over the three hills that dominated the valley where the Colosseum was constructed a few years

after Nero’s death. Some 16,000 sqm have been excavated, with a total 150 rooms. However, archaeologists claim that this is only 50 per cent of the entire complex. The other half now lies under the streets and buildings of the modern city and is therefore inaccessible. Apparently, the palace was not constructed as an actual residence. No heating pipes or other typical Roman mod cons have been discovered. There is no evidence either of the revolving dining-room roof described by Suetonius. “This may have actually been in the imperial palace on the Palatine Hill,” explains Elisabetta Segala, a member of the restoration team. “The Domus Aurea was probably more of a show place, a flagrant display of wealth and power, where Nero could entertain and impress guests.” The present tour begins with a 3D projection on the walls of the entrance, giving us a brief history of the monument from the fire of Rome to world war two, where footage from the historic archives of the Cinematography

Istituto Luce show the galleries converted into shelters for the homeless. Work is still in progress, so we don safety helmets to enter the maze of passages that run the entire length of the excavated monument. Trajan oriented his baths differently from the Domus, so the foundations for his buildings divide up many of the rooms, creating odd angles. As we proceed it seems impossible to believe that these dank, dark surroundings were once flooded with light and colour. The revelation awaits in the Room of the Gilded Ceiling, the new heart of the tour. We sit on benches looking onto a landfill wall, which, when we use our stereoscopic visors (or head-mounted display devices, as they are called officially) becomes transformed into first, a vast cave, and then an open portico. The “cave” or “grotto” was accessed through a hole in the roof by Renaissance artists like Raphael, Pinturicchio, Ghirlandaio and Giulio Romano, who all re-discovered the amazing frescoes by Nero’s top artist Fabullo, thus creating a fashion in “grotesques” that influenced the interior decoration of noble houses May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

HISTORY

Plan of the vast Domus Aurea complex.

for the following three centuries. The show continues with a virtual trip back to the Golden House in Nero’s day. The rubble melts away. We are in a room filled with light. All around, the walls and ceiling are covered in brilliantly coloured designs, stucco work and gilding. Next, we are lifted suddenly on a magic carpet ride through the columns of the Great Cryptoportico and out into the garden, where we float to the edge of the Pentagonal Courtyard to look down on the lake far below. Leaving behind the virtual glimpse into the past, the tour continues through a succession of rooms, including the Room of Achilles on Skyros, where it is just possible to make out the hero hidden among the women, the recently opened Room of Hector and Andromache, the Room of the Red Ceiling, the Room of the Yellow Ceiling (where Pintoricchio has written his name on the wall) and the Room of the Owl, to end at the vast and splendid Octagonal Hall with the “eye” in the dome open to the sky. This room gave Bramante his inspiration for the design of the Octagonal Courtyard in the Vatican. The problem of damp and decay

becomes even more poignant after we have seen what the original decorations once looked like. The few frescoes left are very faded and are being steadily eaten away by calcium deposits seeping through from the soil overhead. The Domus Aurea, in fact, is covered over by a park, created in 1936 when the Via del Monte Oppio was laid through the middle of the ruins of Trajan’s baths. The park has trees that have grown to monumental size, with spreading roots that penetrate the very ceilings of the Golden House, seriously compromising its stability. Landscape architect Gabriella Strano took us up to the park to see how the problem is being tackled. She pointed out the trunks of two felled holm oaks. “They couldn’t be uprooted by mechanical means without damaging the Domus,” she explained. ”The job had to be done manually with great care.” She pointed to a colossal Roxbourgii pine: “That will also have to go. It grows right on top of the Nymphaem of Ulysses and Polyphemus and it weighs five tons. The roots are endangering the mosaic featuring the myth as well as the other decorations of sea-

shells and imitation stalactites – that was a favourite theme of the Romans, then copied in many Renaissance palaces. “The weight of earth on the Domus roof is between 2,500 – 3,000 kg per sqm. It has to be lightened or the ceiling will eventually collapse,” she continued. It says a lot for Roman building skills that the Golden House has survived, denuded but intact, to the present day. Works are underway to replace the present park with a garden that would not put the monument at risk. The heavy layer of soil is being removed and replaced with a lighter stratum of earth, spread over a state-of-the-art waterproof base and drainage system. The pilot project, completed last spring, is based on a typical ancient Roman garden as described by writers like Pliny and Columella, with rectangular beds in box borders, set in geometrical patterns and blooming with the kind of flowers and plants popular in the Roman era such as lavender, periwinkles and rosemary. In place of trees there are potted shrubs. The layout of the entire garden area will trace the outlines of the rooms below, while the oculus in the dome of the Octagonal Hall will be left uncovered, with the installation of an inclining panel in reflecting steel to protect it from the elements. Eventually, the Domus Aurea will have a complete roof garden. Even Nero never dreamt of this.

BOOKING The Domus Aurea is open on Sat-Sun 09.15-15.30. Maximum 25 people admitted every 15 mins. Prior booking essential. Tours available in Italian, English, Spanish and French. For information and bookings tel. 0639967700 or see website www.coopculture.it. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ART

Andy Devane

JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT IN ROME Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante pays tribute to Basquiat whose whirlwind career had strong Italian connections

n 10 May 2016 a canvas featuring a devilish self-portrait of Jean-Michel Basquiat rising from an inferno of colour was sold by Christie’s auction house for $57.3 million, setting a new record for its painter 28 years after his death. The monumental Untitled work was among several completed in 1982 in the northern Italian city of Modena, where the young New York artist had held his first one-man show the previous year. Basquiat came to Italy at the invitation of Modena art dealer Emilio Mazzoli after having been introduced by Florentine artist Sandro Chia in New York. Chia was a leading figure in Italy’s Transvanguardia, part of a global neoexpressionist movement characterised by a spirit of freedom and emotion with a focus on reviving figurative art, mythical imagery and symbolism. The Italian artist was much taken by the spontaneity of Basquiat’s work, noting that its disparate but oddly collaborative elements captured New York’s “emotional reality”. In 1981 Basquiat had come to the attention of another New York-based Italian, gallerist Annina Nosei, again on

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Jean-Michel Basquiat in his studio. Photo Lizzie Himmel.

Chia’s recommendation. In addition to supplying the cash-strapped artist with funds, lodgings and a studio, the Roman art dealer gave Basquiat an exhibition at her newly-opened SoHo gallery in New York City. The show was a runaway success and led Nosei to claim credit for launching Basquiat’s international career. Italy’s connection, and fascination, with Basquiat endures today. Italian

Gianni Mercurio curates Jean-Michel Basquiat: New York City, a major exhibition at Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante that examines the artist’s relationship with the Big Apple as well as exploring the importance of street art and graffiti in his work. The show comprises around 100 pieces from the Mugrabi Collection, one of the world’s largest private hoards of Basquiat works, assembled by Jose Mu-

ART

Basquiat’s Procession contains numerous disturbing references to his cultural background.

grabi, the Israeli industrialist art collector. Mugrabi was introduced to Basquiat in the early days by art dealer Jeffrey Deitch, who along with Mercurio, curated a separate Basquiat show held recently at Mudec, Milan’s Museum of Cultures. Mercurio describes the Rome exhibition as a “retrospective”, spanning the entire range of Basquiat’s colourful but all-too-short career. Running in chronological order, the show charts Basquiat’s meteoric rise to fame, from spray-painting epigrams on the streets of Lower Manhattan in the late 1970s to being recognised by the upper echelons of New York’s art market within just a few years. The intriguing spaces of Chiostro del Bramante, which also held a Basquiat show in 2002, are filled with an explosion of wildly-contrasting colours. However it is only on closer inspection that the social message behind Basquiat’s manylayered works becomes clear. The mixed-media paintings and assemblages on display demonstrate the artist’s heady mix of primitivism, abstraction and figuration, while his contextual integration of words – with scribbly echoes of the late Rome-based American artist Cy Twombly – veers from verse to voodoo, and includes a sprinkling of parole italiane for good measure. The

exhibition also focuses on themes dear to Basquiat’s heart: celebrating his AfroAmerican roots, an incessant search for identity, his desperate need for recognition and fame. Despite his lack of formal education, Basquiat was well-read in English, Spanish and French, and was insatiably inquisitive. The artist peppered his paintings with erudite literary references, employing “words like brushstrokes” to attack repressive power structures, social inequality and racism. Born in Brooklyn in 1960 to a Haitian father and Puerto Rican mother, Basquiat was painting, drawing and scrawling from an early age. As a teenager he skipped school to spray graffiti in downtown Manhattan with his friend Al Diaz. Comprising short cryptic aphorisms, the tags appeared for several years from 1977 under the name SAMO©, derived from “Same Old Shit”, a high-school reference to marijuana. However, to focus on his own work, Basquiat killed off the graffiti duo in early 1980, announcing its demise by painting “SAMO© IS DEAD” on Manhattan walls and trains. Many of his works at the Chiostro are large-scale and striking such as Untitled (Yellow Tar and Feathers), painted in Los Angeles for the Larry Gagosian Gallery in 1982. With its deep yellows, matchstick

men and glued-on eiderdown, at first glance there is a childlike freshness to the work. However the piece is weighed down with allusions to the practice of tarring and feathering. Confronting racism is a subject that Basquiat returns to time and again, noting that he “didn’t see many black people” depicted in paintings. “I am not a black artist,” he would say; “I am an artist.” Painted on wooden slats, his disturbing Procession scene comprises four silhouetted figures, with white pupilless eyes, moving towards a black man holding a skull with outstretched hand. The work conjures up images of African slaves, or perhaps the voodoo of his parents’ heritage; even the jazz funerals of New Orleans. Another topic referenced countless times is anatomy. When Basquiat was seven he suffered a serious car accident while playing on the street, an event that was to have a profound impact on his art for the rest of his life. During the long convalescence his mother brought him the celebrated medical textbook Gray’s Anatomy to read in hospital. The boy was fascinated by its detailed illustrations, taking inspiration for future works such as the arresting Back of the Neck. An expressionistic x-ray, it centres on a gold spinal column, flanked by two skelMay 2017 | Wanted in Rome

art

Back of the Neck was inspired by Basquiat’s childhood accident.

etal arms, one flayed, the other pulsating with throbbing red veins. Above the spine is a gold crown, a frequent Basquiat motif, whose myriad interpretations range from blind ambition and “blowing his own trumpet” to pride in the black diaspora and the notion of black nobility. Other eye-catching works in the Rome exhibition include Rusting Red Car in Kuau, a punchy red automobile parked against a deep ultramarine backdrop; the New and Fake pair of paintings in which Leonardo da Vinci, one of Basquiat’s “favourite artists”, is referenced; and Five Fish Species, a triptych tribute to Beat writer William Burroughs. Its oil pastel message “Burrough’s Bullet” refers to Burroughs killing his wife in a drunken William Tellstyle shooting accident in Mexico. The show also features an American football helmet covered in human hair; a wonderful pair of wood collages made of painted timber crates – Jazz and Black; and the assemblage Natchez with hardboard cut-outs screwed onto a frame, their overlapping images and words obscuring each other, whitewashed here and there with thick, creamy splodges. The Chiostro del Bramante dedicates a room to Basquiat’s fruitful collaboration with Pop art supremo Andy Warhol be-

tween 1983 and 1985. Once again there is an Italian connection: their initial collaborative works also involved Francesco Clemente who, along with Chia, was a central protagonist in Italy’s Transvanguardia movement. The collaboration idea – suggested by Swiss dealer Bruno Bischofberger – was simple: Warhol would start a painting, Basquiat would finish it. Despite Warhol’s fame he was in decline artistically, admitting he had “run out of ideas”. Basquiat, on the other hand, was the fresh new star on the New York art scene, whose social circles included pop star and one-time girlfriend Madonna and fellow celebrity artist Keith Haring. Warhol and Basquiat struck up an immediate friendship which blossomed into an almost father-son type bond. In Thin Lips (1984), Warhol depicts a silhouette portrait of then US president Ronald Reagan, overlaid with economic terms, taking a pot shot at the president’s deficit reduction policy. Basquiat completes the work mischievously, writing “Thin Lips” over Reagan’s mouth, and adding an empty eye, transforming the portrait into a mask. Likewise in their Untitled (Two Dogs) pair of paintings, Warhol presents a canine duo which Basquiat

“finishes” by depicting the dogs urinating and defecating, while almost obliterating the other image in gold paint. The collaboration turned sour however when critics savaged their work following a show at the Tony Shafrazi gallery in 1985, suggesting that Basquiat was nothing more than Warhol’s latest puppet. The reviews had a devastating effect on Basquiat who abruptly ended his friendship with the older artist and fell into a spiral of drug abuse, depression and self-doubt. When Warhol died unexpectedly in February 1987 Basquiat was distraught and bitterly regretted their parting of ways. The following summer, on 12 August, Basquiat died in his art studio from a heroin overdose. He was 27 years old. The Chiostro del Bramante exhibition showcases Basquiat’s dramatic work, conjuring up an atmosphere of Manhattan’s once mean streets, with its soundtrack of sirens and subways; it is an edgy tribute to the troubled artist almost three decades after his untimely death. The exhibition is on display until 2 July at Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

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Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

titolo

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

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tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

exhibitions BOTERO 5 May-27 Aug The Vittoriano presents Italy’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of Fernando Botero, the Colombian artist famous for his so-called Boterismo style which depicts people in exaggerated sizes. The exhibition comprises some 50 works spanning the lengthy career of the 85-year-old artist, with paintings from 1958 up to 2016 on display. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com. STANZE D’ARTISTA: CAPOLAVORI DEL ‘900 ITALIANO 14 April-1 Oct With the subheading Capolavori del ‘900 italiano, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal art gallery focuses on Italian masterpieces from the first half of the 20th century. The 60 works on display, including paintings, sculpture and prints, are by 12 of Italy’s most important artists from the era: Mario Sironi, Arturo Martini, Ferruccio Ferrazzi, Giorgio de Chirico, Alberto Savinio, Carlo Carrà, Ardengo Soffici, Ottone Rosai, Massimo Campigli, Marino Marini, Fausto Pirandello and Scipione. Galleria d’’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. PIERO GILARDI: NATURE FOREVER 13 April-15 Oct This exhibition by Piero Gilardi offers a critical examination of today’s society of consumption and technology, highlighting the complex relationship between man and nature. Centred around themes such as ecology, artistic research, and social and political commitment, the exhibition comprises significant works spanning the Turin artist’s 50-year career in art and activism. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

will be held at the Forum of Caesar and the Forum of Augustus every night until 12 November. The Viaggio nei Fori initiative attracted 140,000 spectators last year, according to the city. Full details can be found on website, www.viaggioneifori.it. ALFREDO PIRRI: I PESCI NON PORTANO FUCILI 12 April-4 June The first retrospective dedicated to Rome-based artist Alfredo Pirri whose work ranges from painting, sculpture, works on paper and environmental installations. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www.museomacro.org. REAL BODIES 8 April-2 July This exhibition is dedicated to the human body and its organs, muscles and skeletal system. The highlight of the 350 exhibits is the series of 12 entire bodies immortalised in a variety of sporting positions, such as running and jumping, demonstrating how our muscles and tendons work. The exhibition also provides anatomical insights into the human reproduction process and the impact of disease on internal organs. Guido Reni District, Via Guido Reni 7, www.realbodies.it. LEE MADGWICK: STAND BY 8 April-31 May The White Noise Gallery in Rome’s S. Lorenzo district presents an exhibition by Lee Madgwick. The show comprises nine large-scale paintings by the British artist whose trademark style juxtaposes derelict urban scenes – station-

Botero at the Vittoriano. Il nunzio, 2004, by Fernando Botero.

Caesar’s Forum illuminated by Viaggio nei Fori. Photo Andrea Franceschini.

MARCO PAOLI: ETHIOPIA 13 April-17 May Florentine photographer Marco Paoli photographer pays tribute to the culture, history and architecture of Ethiopia with an exhibition of photographs. La Pelanda - Centro di produzione culturale, MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www. museomacro.org. VIAGGIO NEI FORI 13 April-12 Nov Two outdoor events with music, light projections and historical commentary

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Stanze d’artista exhibition at Rome’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna on Via Francesco Crispi. Le spose dei marinari, 1934, by Massimo Campigli.

ary or suspended – against ominous landscapes. White Noise Gallery, Via dei Marsi 20/22, tel. 064466919, www.whitenoisegallery.it. EVGENY ANTUFIEV: ETERNAL GARDEN 8 April-10 June The z2o Sara Zanin Gallery presents Eternal Garden, an exhibition of bronzes, embroidery and ghostly images by Evgeny Antufiev. The latest series of works by the Russian artist is centred around the novelist Nabokov and his passion for butterflies, examining themes such as metamorphosis, rebirth and ephemerality. The Moscow-based artist is known for using a variety of materials in his installations, such as bones, cloth, crystals, glue, hair, insects, marble, meteorites, teeth and snake skins. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Alfredo Pirri at MACRO Testaccio. Quello che avanza, 2014 -2017.

GEA CASOLARO: CON LO SGUARDO DELL’ALTRO 7 April-11 June The largest solo exhibition ever dedicated to the Roman artist Gea Casolaro who is based between Rome and Paris. In her photo and video works Casolaro highlights the importance of dialogue between diverse people and cultures. MACRO - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. I FORI DOPI I FORI 30 March-10 Sept Illustrating the history of the Imperial Fora after the fall of the Roman empire, based on the findings of excavations carried out over the last 25 years. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. NINA BOVASSO: INTRECCI DI COLORE 29 March-27 May Rome’s Sala 1 stages an exhibition of the latest works by Nina Bovasso whose art represents “the new generation of New York”. Informed and inspired by various movements including Abstract Expressionism and Arte Povera, Bovasso’s work offers an “unstable harmony” between canvas, collage and assemblage. Works on display include thick clippings of coloured paint, remodelled from the artist’s palette, and white cardboard shapes glued to canvas. Sala 1 - Centro Internazionale d’Arte Contemporanea, Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. DARIO FO E FRANCA RAME: IL MESTIERE DEL NARRATORE 23 March-25 June Exhibition dedicated to Dario Fo – the

Intrecci di Colore exhibition by Nina Bovasso at Sala 1. Color Pile, 2016.

internationally celebrated Nobel prizewinning playwright, actor and director, who died last year aged 90 – and his wife Franca Rame, the theatre actress, playwright and political activist, who died in 2013. Comprising 150 pieces including artworks, scripts, photographs, puppets, masks and costumes, the exhibition tells the story of the husband and wife who founded the Dario Fo-Franca Rame Theatre Company in Milan in 1958. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www. barberinicorsini.org.

STILL SHOWING WORLD PRESS PHOTO 28 April-28 May Each year an independent jury at the World Press Photo Foundation in Amsterdam selects images for this prestigious recognition of international

Eternal Garden exhibition by Evgeny Antufiev. Untitled (Brass Sculpture). Photo Giogio Benni, courtesy z2o Sara Zanin Gallery. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

photojournalism. This year’s 45 awardwinning photographers come from 25 countries. The winning photograph was taken by Associated Press photographer Burhan Ozbilici for his image An Assassination in Turkey, showing the moment seconds afer an off-duty policeman shot Russia’s ambassador to Turkey, Andrey Karlov, during the opening of an art exhibition in Ankara last December. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Il mestiere del narratore exhibition dedicated to Dario Fo and Franca Rame at Palazzo Barberini.

DA CARAVAGGIO A BERNINI 14 April-30 July Under the subheading Masterpieces of the Italian Seicento from the Spanish Royal Collection, this blockbuster exhibition reflects the strong political and cultural ties between the Spanish court and the Italian states during the 17th century. The exhibited paintings and sculptures were exchanged mainly as diplomatic gifts from Italian rulers keen to earn the favour of the Spanish overlords, in particular through the Viceroyalty of Naples and the Duchy of Milan. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. SPARTACUS: SLAVES AND MASTERS IN ROME 31 March-17 Sept The Ara Pacis uses 250 archaeological finds to examine the complex history of slavery in ancient Rome, with particular focus on the slave revolt led by Spartacus against the Roman Republic between 73 and 71 BC. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

Da Caravaggio a Bernini exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale. Lucretia killing herself, circa 1685, by Carlo Maratti.

VIVIAN MAIER: UNA FOTOGRAFA RITROVATA 17 March-18 June The Museo di Roma in Trastevere dis-

plays 120 photographs, mainly black and white, by the American street photographer Vivian Maier (1926-2009). Exhibition organisers say the show is designed to give a greater insight into the life and career of the mysterious Maier who took around 150,000 photographs in her spare time while working as a nanny for over 40 years in Chicago. Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it. VENEZIA SCARLATTA: LOTTO, SAVOLDO, CARIANI 15 March-11 June Palazzo Barberini presents six works by three Venetian Renaissance masters – Lorenzo Lotto, Girolamo Savoldo and Giovanni Cariani – on loan from the Metropolitan in New York, the Louvre, Prado, and the Accademia Carrara di Bergamo. The exhibition concentrates on the paintings use of scarlet, a highlyprized colour in the Middle Ages, whose jealously-guarded secret formula was handed down by painters, dyers and alchemists. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.barberinicorsini.org. COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan 2018 This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recently-discovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived from northern Europe in the 18th century. Colosseum, www.coopculture.it. GEORG BASELITZ: GLI EROI 4 March-18 June Exhibition displaying the Heroes cycle of paintings by Georg Baselitz, one of Europe’s most important contemporary artists, 50 years after he created the series aged 27. Baselitz’s unorthodox heroes are fragile, vulnerable, damaged, and include war-weary soldiers and struggling artists trying to find their place in post-war Germany. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Vivian Maier exhibition at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Untitled, Chicago, 1976, by Maier.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

GIOVANNI BOLDINI 4 March-16 July A retrospective exhibition dedicated to

Giovanni Boldini comprising more than 250 works by the Ferrara artist, on loan from major museums and private collections around the world. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), tel. 068715111, www. ilvittoriano.com. GIUSEPPE PENONE: EQUIVALENZE 27 Jan-15 June The Gagosian holds an exhibition of work by Giuseppe Penone, a renowned Italian sculptor based between Turin and Paris. Associated with the Arte Povera movement, Penone is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time, using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. The exhibition coincides with the installation of a giant Penone sculpture at the Fendi headquarters in Rome’s EUR district. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. GIORGIO GRIFFA 21 Feb-13 May Galleria Lorcan O’Neill shows new and historic works by Italian abstract painter Giorgio Griffa, viewed as one of the most radical avant-garde artists working in Italy today. Born in Turin in 1936, Griffa participated in the Venice Biennale in 1978 and 1980, and has held exhibitions at prestigious galleries throughout Europe. Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. DNA: IL GRANDE LIBRO DELLA VITA DA MENDEL ALLA GENOMICA 10 Feb-18 June Exhibition dedicated to Gregor Mendel, the scientist, Augustinian friar and misunderstood genius whose groundbreaking genetic discoveries were not recognised until the turn of the 20th century, more than three decades after his death. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. PLEASE COME BACK: IL MONDO COME PRIGIONE? 9 Feb-21 May 26 artists and over 50 works present “prison” as a metaphor for the contemporary world, and the contemporary world as a metaphor for prison: delving into modern technology and how we have become hyper-connected and increasingly manipulated. The exhibition’s artists include Claire Fontaine, Jenny Holzer, AES+F, Chen Chieh-Jen, and Gianfranco Baruchello. There is also a parallel programme of talks and workshops in which the public can interact with artists and prisoners. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

Giovanni Boldini exhibition at the Vittoriano. Signora con ombrellino by Boldini.

Venezia Scarlatta: Lotto, Savoldo, Cariani exhibition at Palazzo Barberini. Ritratto di Marsilio Cassotti e Faustina Assonica, 1523, by Lorenzo Lotto. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

art news VENICE BIENNALE Under the title Viva Arte Viva, the 2017 edition of the prestigious Venice Biennale is curated by Christine Macel and takes place from 13 May-26 Nov. This year’s theme is described as “an exclamation, a passionate outcry for art and the state of the artist”, according to Macel who has been chief curator at the Centre Pompidou in Paris since 2000. The Biennale features 120 artists and 85 national pavilions, of which four countries are represented for the first time: Antigua and Barbuda, Kiribati, Nigeria, and Kazakhstan. Representing the US is Mark Bradford, the Los Angeles-based artist known for grid-like abstract paintings combining collage with paint, while the UK is represented by Phyllida Barlow, known for her colossal sculptural projects. Ireland is represented by Dublin-based artist Jesse Jones who creates a fictional lost past where women held power; Canada by Geoffrey Farmer known for his multimedia works comprising elements of sculpture, collage, video, film and performance; and Australia by Tracey Moffatt who uses primarily photography and video. Italy is represented by three artists, Giorgio Andreotta Calò, Roberto Cuoghi and Adelita Husni-Bey, whose “works and languages are global but intimately linked to the culture of our country”, according to the curator of the Italian pavilion, Cecilia Alemani. This showcase of contemporary international art is held every two years and is now 122 years old. The 57th Venice Biennale is held at the historic Giardini and Arsenale as well as at various venues throughout the city. The preview takes place from 10-12 May followed by the awards ceremony and inauguration on 13 May. For details see website, www.labiennale.org. ROME CLEANS VANDALISED KENTRIDGE MURAL In mid-April Rome authorities undertook a week-long cleaning exercise to remove graffiti from the Triumphs and Laments frieze completed by the internationally-acclaimed artist William Kentridge along the banks of the river Tiber just over a year ago. Sections of the 550m-long frieze between Ponte Sisto and Ponte Mazzini, which opened to much fanfare in April 2016, were covered by graffiti “tags” and sprayed messages, making headlines around world. The monumental project was created by power-washing the almost vertical embankment walls to form silhouettes of figures from three millennia of tumultuous Roman history. Ephemerality was

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Christine Macel is the curator of the 2017 Venice Biennale.

always central to Kentridge’s concept behind the mural, which was designed to fade over time with moss and pollution. The South African artist told Italian daily newspaper La Repubblica: “I can not say I am surprised [about the vandalism] but of course I would have hoped against it.” The interdisciplinary artist said he would inspect the mural personally when in Rome to prepare for directing Alan Berg’s Lulu at the Teatro dell’Opera in May, see page 36. ROME REVAMPS METRO WITH ART Rome is to decorate its metro stations with contemporary art works following the launch of a design competition open to artists under the age of 30.

Cleaning Kentridge frieze in Rome.

Rome mayor Virginia Raggi announced the initiative recently at the Metro B Cavour station with the unveiling of the newly-restyled “Art Stop Monti”, the first station to benefit from the plan to cheer up the city’s metro network. Proposals can be submitted until 31 May when 12 young artists will be short-listed by a jury, before six winners will be chosen through an open vote on the project’s Facebook page. Art Stop Monti is being held with the collaboration of NUfactory, the Rome-based creative association behind the annual Outdoor Festival. For project details see website, www.artstopmonti.com. Andy Devane

CLASSICAL ROME For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA DECÒ 5 May The evening is described as a “study of humanity between the 19th and 20th centuries, from tango to futuristic deliria and milonga.” A part of the Musica and Letteratura series. Sala Casella, Accademica Filarmonica, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org. L’ARIA DELLA LIBERTÀ L’ITALIA DI PIERO CALAMANDREI 8 May The premiere of this multi-media work

based on an idea by Nino Criscenti. Music by Messiaen, Stravinsky and Schostakovich. Calamandrei, 18891956, was an Italian anti-fascist, author and jurist. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA MISCHA MAISKY 14 May If you did not hear cellist Mischa Maisky when he performed at Teatro Argentina in March for the Accademia Filarmonica Romana here is another opportunity to hear him play. This time he performs with the RAI orchestra conducted by James Conlon, playing Dvorak’s symphony no 8. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. MITSUKO UCHIDA 14 May, 19-21 May In a recent interview with the Daily Telegraph Mitsuko Uchida said: “I have reached the age when I can step back. I don’t have to run around giving 120 concerts a year – 50 is enough for me.” So S. Cecilia is fortunate to have Uchida not just for a piano recital on 15 May (music by Mozart and Schumann) but also for three performances with the S. Cecilia Orchestra conducted by Antonio Pappano, music by Corrado, Schumann and Mendlessohn. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ACCADEMIA TEDESCA 22 May Rome’s Accademia Tedesca – Villa Massimo will perform at the Sala S. Cecilia with the Ensemble Modern, experts in contemporary music, conducted by Tito Ceccherini with Anna Clementi voice and Megumi Kasakawa viola. Music by Berio, Stockhausen, Streich (new composition) and Merrmann (new

Mischa Maisky preforms with the RAI Orchestra conducted by James Conlon on 14 May at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

composition). For the occasion the audience will be seated on the stage with the musicians. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it. MAHLER SYMPHONY NO 5 25-29 May Mahler’s symphony no 5 conducted by Michael Tilson Thomas who will also take the S. Cecilia orchestra to Turin on 26 May. The programme in Rome on 25, 27 and 29 May will also include Mozart’s concerto for two pianos, played by Katia and Marielle Labèque. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. YURI TERMIRKANOV JULIA FISCHER 8-10 June Yuri Termirkanov conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra with Julia Fischer violin performing Brahms violin concert. The programme also includes Dvorak’s New World symphony. Fischer has a vast repertoire and a long recording history. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

Julia Fischer performs Brahms violin concerto conducted by Yuri Termirkanov at S. Cecilia on 8-10 June.

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YURI TERMIRKANOV 15-17 June Tchaikovsky’s Francesca da Rimini and

Swan Lake conducted by Yuri Termirkanov with the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus, as well as three Rachmaninov songs. The short symphonic poem Francesca da Rimini was composed in a few weeks when Tchaikovsky was visiting Bayreuth in 1876 and is thought to show the influence of both Liszt and Wagner on Tchaikovsky. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI FESTIVAL UN ORGANO PER ROMA 13,20, 26 May Organ concerts organised by the IUC, Accademia S. Cecilia and the Accademia Filarmonica di Roma at the Conservatorio S. Cecilia on 13 and 20 May and at the Basilica di SS. Cosma e Damiano on 26 May. RICHARD GALLIANO 16 May French accordion player Richard Galliano performs music by Mozart, Piazzolla and some of his own arrangements and compositions with the Orchestra Camerata Ducale. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. ROMA TRE ITALIAN DISCOVERIES 12 June The Roma Tre Orchestra with Roberto Prosseda piano plays music by Italian composers Fano and Omizzolo, as well as Dvorak’s New World symphony. Teatro Palladium, Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. UNIVERSITA TOR VERGATA ROMA SINFONIETTA There is also a series of concerts at the Auditorium Ennio Morricone of Università Tor Vergata. See www.romasinfonietta.com and web.uniroma2.it for details.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ PAT METHENY 8 May Grammy Award-winning American jazz guitarist and composer Pat Metheny returns to Rome on 8 May. Metheny’s musical style incorporates progressive and contemporary jazz, Latin jazz and jazz fusion. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

Lauryn Hill at Rock in Roma on 9 July.

PATTI SMITH 13 May American singer-songwriter Patti Smith presents her special concert series Grateful, in which she is accompanied on stage by her children alongside bassist, guitarist and musical director Tony Shanahan. Smith set new standards for the New York City punk rock movement when she released her debut album Horses in 1975. Referred to as the “Godmother of Punk”, Smith’s best-known song is Because the Night, co-written with Bruce Springsteen. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com. DEEP PURPLE 22 June Veteran English heavy rock band Deep Purple come to Rome as part of its Long Goodbye Tour, almost half a century after forming in Hertford. The original vocalist and songwriter Ian Gillan still fronts the band which is best known for its massive international hit Smoke on the Water in 1971. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it. DEPECHE MODE 25 June English alternative electronic music group Depeche Mode will play in Rome’s Olympic Stadium on 25 June. The band has sold over 100 million albums and singles worldwide, making them the most successful electronic group in music history. Tickets can be bought at www.ticketone.it. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dei Gladiatori. THE CRANBERRIES 26 June The Cranberries perform a concert at

Depeche Mode at Stadio Olimpico on 25 June.

the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 26 June. Formed in Irish city Limerick in 1989, the rock band is known for hits Linger, Dreams, Zombie and Promises. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com. 2CELLOS 26 June 2Cellos perform at Il Centrale Live – Foro Italico di Roma on 26 June. The classically-trained duo from Croatia is known for playing instrumental arrangements of well-known pop and rock songs as well as classical music and film scores. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Centrale Live - Foro Italico, Via dei Gladitori. THE BEACH BOYS 27 June The Beach Boys, including original members Mike Love and Bruce Johnston, play at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The veteran popsters, who May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

TOM JONES 26 July Welsh crooner Tom Jones shot to stardom in the 1960s with hits such as It’s Not Unusual, What’s New Pussycat and Delilah, while he gained a new audience in the late 1990s with the release of Reload, an album of cover duets with artists such as Robbie Williams and Stereophonics. He performs on 26 July at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

dance Kasabian at Rock in Roma on 21 July.

formed in 1961 and helped to create the West Coast classic rock sound, are best known for songs such as Good Vibrations, I Get Around, California Girls and Heroes and Villains. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium. com. LAURYN HILL 9 July American singer-songwriter and rapper Lauryn Hill returns to Rome to perform at Rock in Roma on 9 July. The former Fugees member is best known for her rendition of the hit Killing Me Softly, Doo-Wap (That Thing), and Everything is Everything. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com. RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS 20 July The American band has a distinct musical sound combining various elements of hard rock, funk and hip hop. Formed in Los Angeles in 1983, the band achieved huge commercial success with the 1991 album Blood Sugar Sex Magik which sold over 12 million copies and spawned hits such as Give It Away and Under the Bridge. In more recent years the band has attracted a new generation of fans with songs such as Californication and Otherside. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com. KASABIAN 21 July English rockers Kasabian return to Rome three years after the band’s last gig at Rock in Roma. The group has six studio albums under its belt including this year’s For Crying Out Loud. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www. rockinroma.com.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA VALSE, SYMPHONY IN C, SHEHERAZADE RAVEL AND RIMSKY-KOSAKOV 19 April-13 May La Valse and Sheherazade are new Teatro alla Scala productions. Ravel’s La Valse is choreographed by some of the dancers from the La Scala ballet company in a project to encourage new choreographic talent. Roberto Bolle is dancing in Symphony in C (on 19, 21 April and 10, 11 May) to the Balanchine choreography. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. PROGETTO HÄNDEL 20 May- 1 June There will nine performances of this choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti set to chamber music by Handel. This is a world premiere for La Scala, with stars Roberto Bolle and Svetlana Zakharova (20, 21, 23 and 24 May). Teatro alla

Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM MENDELSSOHN 28 June-22 July Balanchine’s Midsummer Night’s Dream comes back to La Scala danced by the students of La Scala’s famous ballet academy. This is La Scala’s 2003 version with scenery and sets by Luisa Spinatelli. David Coleman conducts the La Scala orchestra. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO BRANCACCIO STOMP 9-12 May The ever-popular percussion group Stomp returns to Brancaccio with its athletic dancers and their everyday props such as dustbins, old tyres, brushes, pans and drills. The internationally successful Stomp performs a cross between dance, physical theatre, circus and gymnastics. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana, www.teatrobrancaccio.it. TEATRO OLIMPICO FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DELLA DANZA ATERBALLETTO WORDS AND SPACE BLISS 3-4 May Italy’s major dance company, based in Reggio Emilia, performs Words and Space, a new choreography by Jirí Pokorny, an inter-personal dialogue about thoughts (words) and their

Aterbaletto’s Words and Space at Teatro Olimpico on 3-4 May.

transformation into actions (space). Pokorny, who danced with the Netherlands Dans Theater (NDT), has worked with Jiri Kylian, Mats Ek and Paul Lightfoot among others. Bliss by Johan Inger (who also started with the NDT and is responsible for Aterballetto’s successful Rain Dogs) is based on the music from the improvised concert by Keith Jarrett in Cologne in 1975. Aterballetto, which relied almost exclusively on choreographies by Amedeo Amodio and Mauro Bigonzetti for many years, is now looking further afield for inspiration. This is last performance in the season of the Festival Internazionale della Danza di Roma organised by the Accademia Filarmonica and the Teatro Olimpico. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it. TEATRO QUIRINO GIULIETTA E ROMEO BALLETTO DI ROMA 2-7 May Choreography by Fabrizio Monteverdi with the Balletto di Roma. In this 2016 interpretation Giulietta takes on a much more forceful role than usual, as do the mothers of the two lovers. Teatro Quirino, Via delle Vergini 7, www.teatroquirino.it. THE NIGHT GARDEN eVOLUTION DANCE THEATER 10-11 May Dance, acrobatics, magic and illusion, with choreography by Anthony Heinl and the eVolution Dance Theater. Heinl started his dance career with Momix in 2001 and then moved to Italy in 2006 where he worked with Daniel Ezralow and Emiliano Pellisari and then to the formation of the eVolution Dance Theatre in 2008 where he is artistic director, choreographer and dancer. Teatro Quirino, Via delle Vergini 7, www.teatroquirino.it.

festivals NORDIC FILM FESTIVAL 4-7 May The sixth edition of Rome’s Nordic Film Fest has Viaggio (Travel) as its theme and takes place as usual at the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese. The festival promotes the film industry and culture of the Nordic countries, and includes Italian premieres, documentaries and short films, in addition to encounters with actors and directors. The event is organised

with the embassies of Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden – in collaboration with the capital’s Circolo Scandinavo and the film institutes of the participating countries. During the festival, on 6-7 May, a special edition of the Be Nordic culture festival will be held in the capital for the first time. There will also be a photographic exhibition Donne forti – Luce tenue – Un percorso nella storia del cinema finlandese, marking the centenary of Finland’s independence. Films are screened in original language with subtitles in Italian. Free entry. For programme see website, www.nordfilmfestroma.com.

OPEN HOUSE

6-7 May Many of Rome’s museums, libraries, galleries and modern buildings to which there is normally limited public access are open free of charge during the sixth edition of Open House Roma. Since its launch in 2012, the annual initiative dedicated to Rome’s varied architectural design has opened up hundreds of interesting, important and sometimes off-limits buildings. The annual event, which last year registered 70,000 visitors, features a multitude of buildings around the capital, with dozens of guided tours and affiliated events. The two-day event is divided into five categories: Abitare (visits to private apartments), Architettura del Quotidiano (buildings which animate daily life in Rome but are little known to many of the city’s residents), Factory e produzione creativa (new sites of innovation and creative production), Attraversare la storia (exploring Rome’s buildings through the various historical ages), and Città della conoscenza (visiting the city’s sites of knowledge, culture and research). At the time of going to press the 2017 programme was not available, however it is expected to include a special focus on “International Rome”, including the city’s foreign academies and cultural institutes, as well as spotlighting contemporary architecture and interior design. One venue to look forward to exploring, announced ahead of the launch, is the city’s Food and Agriculture Organization on Viale Aventino. This year the Open House programme will be preceded by Urbanitas, a twoday forum promoting a discussion on the future of Rome, with experts putting forward concrete proposals for a sustainable, resilient and creative city. The conference takes place on 4-5 May at the MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo. The Rome version of the worldwide Open House initiative, which began in London in 1992, is co-ordinated by non-profit cultural association Open City Roma and its 500 volunteers. Booking is required for many of the Rome tours, for info see website, www.openhouseroma.org.

TEATRO VASCELLO TABULA COMPAGNIE LINGA 17-18 May A choreography by Katarzyna Gdaniec and Marco Cantalupo in which eight dancers from the Swiss-based Compagnie Linge make use of two large tables as props or barriers in a space which is a times restricted, at times open-ended. Space may unite or divide but has to be dominated. The choreographies of the French Compagnie Linga explore the effects of social and political issues on the body. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

The cloister at the Convent of S. Maria sopra Minerva opens as part of Rome’s Open House 2017. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

as well as a children’s play area. For details including entry prices see website, www.festivaldelverdeedelpaesaggio. it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 0687909043.

Festival del Verde e del Paesaggio at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

FESTIVAL DELLE SCIENZE 11-14 May The 12th edition of Rome’s science festival teams up with the National Geographic for the first time. This year the annual event at the Auditorium Parco della Musica is dedicated to the urgent question of global warming and other pressing crises affecting the planet such as shortages of food and water, overpopulation and depopulation. Under the title Il cambiamento (The change), the festival programme features three days of debates, performances and readings by eminent international scientists, journalists and philosophers. For details see website, www.auditorium.com. Auditorium Parco Della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411.

FESTIVAL DEL VERDE E DEL PAESAGGIO 19-21 May The seventh edition of the Festival del Verde e del Paesaggio is held on the roof gardens of Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica, from 19-21 May. The three-day festival dedicated to gardening, landscape gardening, designer gardens and terraces has exhibitors throughout its 20,000-sqm outdoor space. Visitors to the family-friendly event will find an extensive range of plants on sale as well as outdoor furniture, hammocks, sculpture and gardening equipment. A novelty this year is the transformation of the Auditorium’s Cavea amphitheatre into a forest of 100 native Italian trees and plants. There are also innovative landscape installations

SPRING ATTITUDE 25-27 May This three-day festival dedicated to electronic music and its emerging sounds returns to Rome with its seventh edition. This year’s festival line-up includes important Italian and international names such as Jon Hopkins, Jenny Hval, Nathan Fake, Romare, Yussef Kamaal, Princess Nokia, and Max Cooper. The dj sets and live performances take place at MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo and the nearby Guido Reni District venue, both in the Flaminio neighbourhood. For info see website, www.springattitude.it.

festivals in italy BRESCIA AND BERGAMO 54TH FESTIVAL PIANISTICA 27 April-6 June This year’s theme of the international piano festival held in both Bergamo and Brescia is “Beethoven e Napoleone. Musica tra ideali e potere.” There are 60 concerts in 45 days. One of the highlights will be the performance by Martha Argerich on 5 June in Brescia and 6 June in Bergamo. But the festival is not just for established performers such as Argerich, Alexander Lonquich (5 May in Bergamo), Grigory Sokolov (12 May in Brescia and 29 May in Bergamo), Rudolf Buchbinder (19 May Brescia and 20 May in Bergamo) but also for new arrivals, such as the 16year old Russian Alexander Malofeev who opened the festival on 27 April and child protégé Serena Wang (born 2004) who first performed with the Shanghai Symphony Orchestra conducted by Zubin Mehta when she was 10. She plays with the Guangzhou Symphony Orchestra on 10 May in Brescia and 11 May in Bergamo. CREMONA

Jenny Hval at Spring Attitude on 25 May.

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MONTEVERDI FESTIVAL 7 April-24 June On the 450th anniversary of the birth of Monteverdi, often known as the father of modern opera, the festival this year focuses on the theme of the composer’s work Orpheus. As well as opera, poetry, madrigals, dance and concerts there are also river concerts along the

Teenage Serena Wang makes her first appearance in Italy with the Guangzhou Symphony Orchestra at the Brescia and Bergamo piano festival.

Po as well as in the cities of Cremona, Mantua and Venice (2-3 June). The highlight of the festival will be the closing concert in Cremona’s cathedral of Vespro della Beata Vergine (24 June) conducted by John Eliot Gardiner with the Monteverdi Choir and the English Baroque Soloists. For details of the festival see Teatro Ponchielli, Corso Vittorio Emaneule II 52, Cremona, www. teatroponchielli.it. RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL 25 May-11 July One of the themes of Italy’s top class multi-disciplinary festival this year is the “Noise of Time” taken from the title of the Julien Barnes novel based on the life of Shostakovich. The starting point is the Russian Revolution in October 1917, the subsequent destruction of old patterns of thought and tradition which then led to the conflict between intellectual creativity and political power, hence the choice of Shostakovich. There will be the annual Roads of Friendship concert with the Tehran symphony orchestra and chorus together with by the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra founded and conducted by Riccardo Muti on 8 July, plus a series of other concerts with international orchestras and soloists (Yuri Temirkanov with the St Peterburg Philharmonic on 4 July). There is a tribute to India to mark the 70th anniversary of independence (2224 June). The dance section features the Olivier Dubois company (with the 40 male dancers from Ravenna to dance beside Sebastien Perrault on the evening of 8 June), the National Ballet of Cuba and the influence of Italy’s Futurist movement on dance with works by the Paolo Grassi Civic School of Theatre. Music and Cinema focuses on

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

classical films with live music including Charlie Chaplin’s The Gold Rush (11 July) now fully restored by the Cineteca di Bologna, with the live music provided by the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra. For full details see festival website www.ravennafestival.org.

THEATRE TEATRO ARGENTINA 10 May Teatro Argentina screens Rupert Goold’s contemporary version of Richard III which features top-notch actors and was recorded live at London’s Almeida Theatre. Ralph Fiennes stars as Shakespeare’s most notorious villain while Vanessa Redgrave plays Queen Margaret. Almeida, which recorded the production using multiple cameras around the stage and auditorium, has shown the film in cinemas and theatres around the world. In English with Italian subtitles. 21.00. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

TEATRO VITTORIA 10-14 May With eppur mi son scordato di me, Gianni Clementi provides an amusing yet moving story, featuring actor Paolo Triestino and lots of music by Lucio Battisti. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it. TEATRO SISTINA 23-28 May Dramatic theatre and live music meet in Il Casellante, a production based on the novel of the same name – a metaphorical story playing on words, music and images – by Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri. Giuseppe Dipasquale directs a cast including Moni Ovadia, Valeria Contadino and Mario Incudine. In Italian. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it. ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 26 May The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity, in English, features clubfounder Marsha De Salvatore as MC along with regulars Ryan Costello and Jose Salgado, and visiting comics James McDaniel from Los Angeles and Calum Stewart from Wales. Doors open at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere. ROME SAVOYARDS / PLAYS IN ROME 23-29 May The Rome Savoyards/Plays in Rome presenting a tribute to Edward Albee with The American Dream and more. Produced by Special Arrangement with Samuel French. For info and reservations contact playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 347 / 8248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (off Viale Mazzini).

Vanessa Redgrave and Ralph Fiennes in Richard III being screened at Teatro Argentina on 10 May.

OPERA FLORENCE MAGGIO MUSICALE DON CARLO BY VERDI 5-14 May The director Giancarlo Del Monaco has said that he has tried to come as close as possible to both Verdi’s and Schiller’s original in his staging on this version of Don Carlo, conducted by Zubin Mehta in this 80th edition of Maggio Musicale. Opera di Firenze, Piazza Vittorio Gui 1, www.operadifirenze.it. L’HISTORIO DU SOLDAT BY STRAVINSKY 24-29 May The third opera in this year’s Maggio Musicale festival programme is another first for the much-in-demand South African born director Alessandro Talevi. It follows on his success with Tosca for the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma last season. Stravinsky’s opera, which was written in the last days of world war one and which was described by the composer as a theatrical work “to be read, played and danced”, is conducted by Alpesh Chauan with the Maggio Musicale orchestra at Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15, www.operadifirenze.it.

MILAN LA GAZZA LADRA BY ROSSINI 12 April-7 May This new La Scala production, conducted by Riccardo Chailly marks the 200th anniversary of its highly successful premiere at La Scala. It is directed by Gabrielle Salvatores who is making his debut at La Scala. The cast is a strong team of belcanto singers, with soprano Rosa Feola making her debut as Ninetta (she will be singing in Rome at Caracalla in July in Carmen), Edgardo Rocha, Alex Esposito, Paolo Bordogna and Michele Pertusi. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. DON GIOVANNI BY MOZART 6 May-6 June In the wake of two Italian operas Mozart returns to La Scala with Don Giovanni conducted by Paavo Jarvi making his debut at La Scala. This is the 2011-2012 production directed by Robert Carsons. American baritone Thomas Hampson sings the lead role, coming from a magnificent and sensitive interpretation of Germont in a contemporary (and con-

Giancarlo’s Del Monaco’s interpretation of Verdi’s Don Carlo at La Scala 5-14 May.

troversial) staging by Willy Decker of La Traviata at the Metropolitan Opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

revival which will be broadcast on RAI 5 and in cinemas on 19 June. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

LA BOHÈME BY PUCCINI 17 June-14 July Franco Zeffirelli’s popular staging of this Puccini favourite returns to La Scala, with Sonya Yoncheva making her debut at Milan’s opera theatre, alternating with Aylin Perez. Evelino Pidò conducts La Scala orchestra and chorus. Yoncheva gave a recent memorable interpretation of Violetta in the Met’s contemporary staging of La Traviata this spring. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME

DIE ENTFÜHRUNG AUS DEM SERAIL By MOZART 17 June-1 July La Scala is re-staging Giorgio Strehler’s version of this Mozart opera to mark the 20th anniversary of the death of the Italian director. It was first performed at the Salzburg Festival in 1965 where it was conducted by Zubin Mehta and then numerous times at La Scala from 1972 onwards. Mehta will be conducting this

LULU BY BERG 19-30 May With the direction of South Africa’s William Kentridge this is certain to be a popular choice. This production of Berg’s opera is a co-production with three top international opera companies, The Metropolitan New York, the English National Theatre and the Nationale Opera Amsterdam. Kentridge’s direction and staging has had highly favourable reviews wherever the opera has been performed in the last year. Kentridge, whose ink drawings are used in projections and animated drawings, sets the scene of this difficult opera in the period it was created in the late 1920s early 1930s. Alan Berg died before completing the last two acts and it was first performed incomplete in 1937 and then for the next 40 years, until the death of Berg’s wife 1976. It was finally finished by Friedrich Cerha, Austrian

William Kentridge’s sets for Berg’s Lulu at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma 19-30 May. Photo Ken Howard. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

composer and conductor who had been working on it since the early 1960s. The complete version was premiered in 1979 at the Paris Opera conducted by Pierre Boulez. Alejo Perez is conducting with Agnette Eichenholz (Sweden) and Disella Lárusdóttir (Iceland) who makes her European debut in the title role. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. IL VIAGGIO A REIMS BY ROSSINI 14-24 June This is an opportunity for three singers (Roberta Mantegna, Eleonora de la Peña and Valentina Varriale) from the Fabbrica young artists programme of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma to make their mark on this co-production with the National Opera Amsterdam. Stefano Montanari conducts and the director is Damiano Michieletto who was booed and heckled for his direction of Rossini’s Guillaume Tell at Covent Garden in 2015, although he was subsequently invited back. His Viaggio a Reims by Rossini got good critiques when it was first produced in Amsterdam the same year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 17-18 May Charles Ray - Mountain Lion Attacking a Dog. Los Angeles-based sculptor Charles Ray discusses his innovative approach to contemporary sculpture in two lectures, at 18.00 on 17 May at Villa Aurelia, Porta S. Pancrazio 1, and at 18.00 on 18 May at Via Angelo Masina 5, immediately preceding the opening of his exhibition of new work. The show is curated by Peter

Benson Miller and both talks will be in English. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www. aarome.org. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 5 May Clarence Bicknell: man of marvels. Film screening and workshop on the British botanist, archaeologist and philanthropist Clarence Bicknell (1842-1918) who was noted for his identification of the plants in the Ligurian Riviera. 17.45-19.30. 17 May. Pirro Ligorio’s Oxford album: the variety of drawings and writings. Prof Ian Campbell (University of Edinburgh) gives a talk on the 16th-century Italian architect, painter, antiquarian and garden designer Pirro Ligorio, best known for designing the fountains at Villa d’Este in Tivoli near Rome. 18.00-19.30. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE 22 March-24 Sept Punti di Vista (Points of View) is an exhibition by German photographer Kerstin Schomburg who, during the summer of 2015, followed in the footsteps of important landscape artist and friend of Goethe, Jakob Philipp Hackert (17371807). Schomburg uses her camera to provide a modern version of Hackert’s celebrated scenes of Rome, including St Peter’s and the Baths of Caracalla, as well as the Roman hinterland such as the waterfalls of Tivoli, Via Appia Antica, and Villa Conti in Frascati. The exhibition also includes some original Hackert works. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 2 May-30 June Guided tours of the gardens at Rome’s Japanese Cultural Institute are open

Guided tours of the gardens at the Japanese Cultural Institute.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Sculptor Charles Ray at the American Academy in Rome.

to small groups of people during the mornings and afternoons on Tues, Thurs, Fri, and on Sat mornings. The visits are free and bookings can only be made by telephone. To reserve your place tel. 0694844655 but bear in mind that there is strong demand for the tours which are booked up quickly. The institute’s gardens are the work of renowned garden designer Ken Nakajima, who was also responsible for the Japanese section of the botanic gardens in Trastevere. They feature cherry trees, wisteria, irises and dwarf pines, as well as a waterfall, ponds and an ornamental bridge. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS SHELLEY-HOUSE 28 Nov-3 June Pens to Paper. Autograph Letters from the Keats-Shelley House. With the subheading From Sir Walter Scott to President Theodore Roosevelt, this exhibition focuses on the art of letter-writing and the changes in the industrial production of paper and writing materials between the early 19th century and the early 20th century. On display are autograph letters by figures such as Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Francesco Crispi, Henry James, Eleonora Duse and Rudyard Kipling. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelleyhouse.org. SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 16 March-1 July The Swiss Institute of Rome presents Stockage, a solo exhibition by leading Swiss artist John M. Armleder, at the institute’s Villa Maraini building. The exhibition comprises a collection of works that span Armleder’s long career which includes participation in the Fluxus movement, in addition to some site-specific creations. Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

sport RACE FOR THE CURE 19-21 May Registration is now open for the 18th edition of the Komen Italia Race for the Cure which takes place on the streets of central Rome on Sunday 21 May to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer. The annual event is divided into three categories: a non-competitive 5-km run; a 2-km walk; and a competitive 5-km race. The annual sporting event marks the culmination of a three-day festival of health and fitness workshops, family activities and free medical advice at the Race Village in the Circus Maximus on 19-20 May from 10.00 and 20.00. The money raised goes towards funding educational and early detection programmes to help fight breast cancer. The event is open to men, women and children, and there is a special “Women in Pink” category, for women who have faced or are facing breast cancer. The race begins at 10.00 at the Circus Maximus, passing through Piazza Venezia and past the Colosseum before finishing back at the starting point. Full information can be found on the Race for the Cure Italia website, www.raceroma.it.

Journeys at Explora Children’s Museum.

ARTandSEEK 14 May ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. Children and their families will visit the new collection arrangement at the Galleria Nazionale on 14 May at 11.00. The event will incorporate fun activities to examine how artists such

as Marion Baruch and Alberto Burri use unusual materials to create works of art. The programme is taught in English and aimed at the 6-12 age group. Parents can drop off their children or participate in the programme with the entrance ticket only. Reservation required. For details tel. 331 / 5524440, email membership@artandseekforkids.com or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

children EXPLORA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM From 21 April The Explora children’s museum presents Journeys, a long-term exhibition project promoting the integration of refugees through the visual arts and theatre. The exhibition, which takes place both inside and outside the museum, includes Children of the sea, a series of 10 canvases by urban artistactivist Sibomana, and Sotto il velo comprising comic-book stories based on real-life immigration by Takoua Ben Mohamed, who is originally from Tunisia but was raised in Rome. Explora, Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. BIOPARCO 16 March-30 June The Bioparco holds a fun exhibition entitled La cacca: storia naturale dell’innominabile (Poop: nature’s unspeakable story) which examines the vital role of “cacca” in the world’s ecosystem. In Italian and English. Bioparco, Piazzale del Giardino Zoologico 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www. bioparco.it.

Rome’s annual Komen Race for the Cure begins and ends at Circus Maximus. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

The Friendly Lerl Fourth-grade Derek Montes Baffier, aged 9, from Ambrit International School

n Utah, lived an imaginative boy called Jason Tale. Jason was always told off at school for drawing his imaginative characters. His parents were never happy about his report cards, he got E- on almost everything except for physical education. He had ADHD causing him to get straight A+s in physical education. “So today we will be learning about the greenhouse effect on Venus,” said Mrs Shile pointing her stick at the chalkboard where it said “Greenhouse Effect”. Jason laid lifelessness on his desk with his pencil stuck between two of his fingers. “JASON!!!” yelled Mrs Shile in anger with her stick still pointed at the chalkboard. Jason woke up and said in a stammer “Yes Mrs Shine, uh Shile,” “WHAT DID I SAY!?!” “That we humans are dumb and idiotic we make… pollution,” “Close enough,” Mrs Shile said turning around. Mrs Shile always thought that Jason lost his frontal lobe because he wasn’t afraid to get in trouble. Every day school was hard and he always went to the principal, but this day was like any other. When he went home he went to the bathroom, washed his hands, dressed up, and wrote his comic. Jason always sold comics at his school and raised $20. Then he went to his garden to do a role play about his comics. His parents never talked to him since he is so bad at school. He snuck to the kitchen to get dinner and grabbed some cereal for extra. When he went to bed he heard a weird noise; like a cat screaming, but running 1,000 miles per hour. He snuck

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Derek Montes Baffier.

Ambrit International School.

to his backyard by his window and saw a circle of glowing light. The glow shined in his face as he turned his head around to avoid the shining glow. He had the courage to stand inside the circle. As he stepped inside, he was pushed back with amazing force. Then a small smashing started forming and he looked through the glass and saw an ALIEN. “AHHHHHHHH!!!” screamed Jason in terror. The alien stepped in the grass with smoke floating behind him. “AN ALIEN” screamed Jason in complete horror. “Zat myhn,” the alien said as he grabbed an astronaut like helmet in his hands. The helmet had the glass broken off. The alien put the helmet on Jason. “Calling any living thing in space an alien is just racist,” the alien said to Jason, “WHO ARE YOU?” “I’m a Lerl,” explained the Lerl. Jason’s face switched immediately from horror to “What the heck are you talking about” face. “A Lerl is a species from the pla-,” but before the Lerl could say any more, Jason replied, “Okay first of all, you greet a person by telling them their name, and second of all, continue, I’m interested,” The Lerl continued, “From planet Rel,” “So… what is this hunk-a-junk on my head anyway?” questioned Jason “It’s a way you can understand our language. Now hop in; want an adventure?” “I’ve been hoping to escape my miserable life,” replied Jason happily. The Lerl had one eye, a circled face with tentacles as its feet, and had two claws

for his mouth. Jason hopped in and the Lerl said: “I think you should hold on. We’re going a few miles per hour,” said the Lerl. “Wait…… I should hold onto something even though we’re going a few miles per hour?” questioned Jason. “Just hold on,” the Lerl said rolling his eyes as he turned a gear. The ship hovered for two seconds as smoke underneath it spread all around. Then the ship lifted off into space as a huge smoke trail was left behind. Mr and Ms Tale were preparing to talk to their son after months of silence. “Where is that boy?” Ms Tale said to her husband. “JASON” yelled Mr Tale as he stomped towards Jason’s room calmly. Mr Tale knocked on the door, his parents acted nicely than ever before. When Mr Tale opened his son’s door, he fell in horror!! “HE’S NOT IN HIS ROOM,” screamed Mr Tale. Ms Tale ran to the scene and saw that the window was wide open and smoke was trailing in the sky. Jason held on to a lever, but he didn’t care. The ship turned to amazing speed when the lever Jason was holding onto pulled back and the ship teleported to a planet. Jason realized that it was REL. The ship turned upside down as Jason stumbled to the roof while the Lerl held on tight with a grip of a crane to the handle. From where he was on the roof Jason could hear something extending outwards. “By the way,” said the Lerl, “my name is Alak,” “WOW…. THE BEST TIME TO TELL ME YOUR NAME WHEN WE’RE ABOUT TO CRASH.” “We aren’t gonna crash ya dummy. This ship lands upside down y’now,”

“Worst ship design company ever,” Jason yelled as he managed to get up despite the G-Force. “This is Alak coming in at runway 4,” Alak said into a microphone, “Permission granted,” Jason thought it was a control tower person who controlled the flights. “Hey how come my helmet didn’t fall off when I fell here?” “Because only my fingerprints can access a key that can unlock the helmet,” replied Alak. By now they were in Rel’s atmosphere burning all over the place. “Slow down the ship to 190 knots,” the control tower guy said. Alak pulled the flaps. Ambrit International School, Via F. Tajani 50, www.ambrit-rome.com.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com. May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town AVENTINO / FAO / CIRCO MASSIMO / HISTORIC CENTRE. Aventino / FAO / Circo Massimo / Historic centre. Studio on ground floor, garden setting. One room with kitchen corner, bathroom, storeroom, fully furnished, equipped, security doors, grated windows, WiFi, Sat Tv, washer/ dryer. Classe Energ. G. €850 plus utilities tel. 335 / 7016049, roakay@yahoo.it. APARTMENT NEAR PANTHEON. Looking for non-smoking, female student of

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

English mother tongue to share central apartment (Pantheon). €750 monthly, all included. Tel. 389 / 9513314, world1215@hotmail.com. BRAVETTA - PEACEFUL APARTMENT INSIDE CASALE. Apartment 100sqm in historical casale, partially furnished, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, big living room, fully fitted kitchen, terrace, big garden. Close to Monteverde and Villa Pamphili. €1.300/month, long term. msg@adrianostefani.it. COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO S. GIOVANNI FROM 10 MAY 2017. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month. Other pics available. airleas. rome@gmail. com. LUXURY VILLA WITH POOLS IN OLGIATA. 450sqm villa in prestigious compound near St. George’s British School, with 1200-sqm beautiful grown garden with two magnificent ancient olive trees, big

swimming-pool and a spa with spinal waterfall, wide BBQ and dining area and stone oven for pizza by the big portico. Inside, parquet flooring, security alarm system and air conditioning in every room, on three levels. 4 bedrooms, one is on two levels, all with en-suite bathrooms, two with jacuzzi. 6 bathrooms in total. Eat-in fully furnished kitchen, large dining room and lounge, very airy and bright. Maid two rooms apartment with separate access to the house in the basement, laundry-ironing room, massive study which can be turned into gym, huge luminous double room with space for billiard table and a kitchen or tv area. Plenty of storage space. Spacious garage. Available from September 2017. Contact enrica.arpino@yahoo.com. TRASTEVERE - ORTI D’ALIBERT. Rents charming, small studio – apartment on three level. Fully furnished and equipped. €950 per month. Tel. 065803195, mobile 3334930662 (whatsapp). Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium.Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it. Jobs vacant ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment.

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FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome. Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification. Positions starting immediately. Contact info@englishscool.it. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified English mothertongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@angloamerican.it. HALF-TIME ADMIN SUPPORT FOR A NEW START-UP CONCEPT. Fluent English and Italian is essential. You must live in Rome. The concept is related to exporting high-end Italian products globally to a current database of 50,000 clients. Market, product and supplier research will be necessary. It is not a high-pressure role but more of an administrative and research role with clear direction from directors. Contact annalisa@uhs-group.com. QUALIFIED BILINGUAL MIDDLE SCHOOL MATHS TEACHER. Required for full time position starting September 2017. Must be experienced and have valid E.U. working documents. Please send CV to office@castelliinternational.it. RELOCATION ASSOCIATE. Principal Relocation Company seeks motivated, focused and goal oriented individual to work as a Relocation Associate. Experience in the relocation and/or immigration field an advantage, but not essential as full training will be given. Fluency in English and Italian is essential. Please send résumé/photo to careers@principalrelocation.com with ref: RA-RM. Only residents of Rome need apply.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

TEACHER FOR ENGLISH SUMMER CAMP. English teacher required for the role of assistant of music lab for prestigious English Summercamp at La Tenuta dei Ciclamini: www.iciclamini. it. Dates: 25 June-8 July. Food and accommodation provided. Animation skills would be an asset. For further details phone 338-4861938 or mail at info@ sapereinsieme. it. Musical skills required. THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS SEEKING. The American University of Rome’s Business Administration program is now accepting CVs from potential Adjunct Professor candidates for the “Writing for Business” course starting in Fall 2017. This core course is a writing-intensive course designed to help students develop and hone the writing and research skills required in the writing of their thesis the following year. Adjunct faculty are expected to teach to the designated syllabus, provide support and guidance to students and develop strategies to teach the course for the entire semester, using the course syllabus, objectives, and curriculum. Qualifications: PhD in relevant field, and/ or experience teaching at University level. Please send cover letter and CV to humanresources@aur.edu quoting ref: HR8/2017 Writing for Business. Interviews will start immediately and continue until the post is filled. Italian working papers essential. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international

environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com. TRAINING SCUOLA DI LINGUE IS SEEKING. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Rome. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com. WRITER/PRODUCT ASSISTANT. Well established travel agency based in Rome is seeking an English mother tongue with excellent writing and communication skills and flauent in Italian to help with a 2-month marketing project. Office based in Piazza Bologna district. Please email CV and cover letter to info@italysbestrome. com.

Lessons FULL TIME HOSTESS FOR TEA ROOM. Full time hostess for tea rooms and restaurant in the centre of Rome. Fluent English and Italian spoken. Job contract; paid stage for one year contract, contact rina@babingtons.com. Poetry LAURA. And Laura said “I lived to die“. Cosa abbia detto mai. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. Property for sale in town MINI APARTMENT FOR SALE ST PETER AREA. Vatican area. Ground floor cute apartment. One room, one kitchen, bathroom and changing room for sales. Call Santoloci 335 / 8018871. MINI APARTMENT FOR SALE. Lovely recently built mini apartment in a green area well connected to Metro Valle Aurelia. Living Room with kitchen, large bedroom, full bathroom, covered terrace and parking space. Contact lelspada@hotmail.co.uk. MINI APARTMENT FOR SALES S. PETER AREA. Completely renovated mini apartment in a quiet area close to the Vatican wall, Antica Aurelia side. Luminous ground floor with cute kitchen area, full bathroom, one large room and wardrobe ad hoc space. For visits tel. 335 / 8018871. Rooms and flat shares BEAUTIFUL, CLOSED- OFF, PRIVATE ROOM IN A RENOVATED APARTMENT. Beautiful, closed- off, private room in a renovated apartment close to Girabaldi’s statue and Gianicolo. A private bathroom with endless hot water. Use of fully equipped kitchen, and two balconies with views. Sunny with great energy. There are two terraces that receive sunlight all day. The room has black- out shutters for a good night’s sleep. It is a quiet neighborhood and well connected to public transportation. It is easy to reach from Fiumicino on a train that costs only €8. There are many supermarkets, bars, and cafes with friendly Italians who love to host travelers! For info please contact roberta.stellato@ hotmail.it.

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

Schools and colleges ESE MASTER PROGRAMME, APRIL INTAKE 2017. The Master Programmes at ESE are designed to develop the personal and professional strengths of the individual student. The entrepreneurial education received at ESE is intended to assist individuals in defining their professional dream and put them on a specially tailored career path. ESE Master ‘s students may specialise in Marketing, Finance or Management and are also given the opportunity to further specialise in their sector of interest through the international internship placement programme. The internship is an integral part of the course of study and provides each student the opportunity to spend a 3 months working in the field of the chosen specialisation. This enables students to have excellent opportunities to enter the job market and gain exposure. ESE students have possibility to:study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading

organisations around the world. Intake Dates: April, September 2017. Courses Duration: 12 months in class (15-18 hrs per week) + 3-6 months internship. Language of Instruction: English. To apply http://apply.eselondon. ac.uk/Ma/. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it, tel. 0648906653, www.uniese.it, www.eselondon.ac.uk.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 May 2017 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | May 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it