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FOOTSTEPS OF ROME’S FOREIGN WRITERS AND ARTISTS Andy devane

13.

LAzio’s most mysterious castle margaret stenhouse

16. 20. 22. 26. 50. 52. 55. 56. 59. 60. 62.

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To Sleep1 by Lisa Fedich, Mixed media with words from To Sleep by John Keats. From exhibition A Grass Bed by Lisa Fedich & Elizabeth Frolet at Non-Catholic Cemetery until 28 Oct. See page 33 for details. www.lisarfedich.com Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 4

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ENTS 9

TRACING THE FOOTSEPS OF ROME'S FOREIGN WRITERS AND ARTISTS

33 ANDY WARHOL AT THE VITTORIANO

LAZIOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST MYSTERIOUS CASTLE

WEST SIDE STORY BY LEONARD BERNSTEIN

History

TRACING THE FOOTSTEPS OF ROME’S FOREIGN WRITERS AND ARTISTS AN OBSCURE MAP IN THE KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE INSPIRES A CULTURAL PILGRIMAGE TO PLACES WHERE AMERICAN, BRITISH AND IRISH WRITERS AND ARTISTS STAYED IN THE 19TH CENTURY

Andy Devane ome’s Keats-Shelley House hosts a mysterious watercolour map on its steep, narrow stairwell where it is believed to have rested since the museum’s opening in 1909.

Painted by an unknown artist, the map depicts the area surrounding Piazza di Spagna, using blue motifs with calligraphy to indicate where visiting British and American writers and artists stayed during the 19th century. By this time the network of streets around the Spanish Steps was already known as the “English ghetto” due to its popularity among wealthy British travellers who would conclude their grand tours of Europe in Rome. The map contains around two dozen names – many of whose paths crossed – with several buildings hosting plaques boasting of their illustrious former residents. Based on the information recorded in the map, which can also be viewed on the Keats-Shelley House website, it is possible to trace a roughly clockwise trail around the Tridente, a tridentshaped area of the centro storico fanning out from Porta del Popolo, once the main gateway to the city. The walking tour spans nine decades, from 1817 to 1895, and takes a couple of hours at a leisurely pace.

Unsurprisingly, the map takes as its central focus the Keats-Shelley House at Piazza di Spagna 26, whose former tenant John Keats (1795-1821) needs little introduction. Despite 4 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

spending just three months here, a virtual prisoner to the final throes of tuberculosis, Keats remains indelibly associated with Rome. Visitors today can enter the secondfloor bedroom in which the 25-year-old Romantic poet died in terrible agony, his devoted friend Joseph Severn at his side, on 23 February 1821. Keats is buried in the city’s Non-Catholic Cemetery where his tomb – dedicated simply to a “young English poet” – continues to draw pilgrims almost two centuries after his death. 1819 saw the arrival of English Romantic painter J. M. W. Turner (1775-1851). It is not known where he stayed – perhaps at Palazzo Poli near the Trevi Fountain from which his The map at the Keats-Shelley House is on public display on the stairwell between the ground and first floors.

History medical practice in Piazza di Spagna from 1819 until 1826, during which time poor Keats was one of his patients. Despite rising to become physician to Queen Victoria, recent research suggests that Clark misdiagnosed Keats’ illness, compounding the poet’s final months of agony by enforcing starvation and blood lettings. The doctor’s exact address is unknown but, according to the American author John Evangelist Walsh in his book In Darkling I Listen. The Last Days and Death of John Keats, Clark lived “across the steps” from the Keats-Shelley House.

Joseph Severn’s sketch of John Keats on his deathbed in Rome 1821.

one surviving letter was written. However we know that on his return trip in August 1828 he took lodgings at Piazza Mignanelli 12, a stone’s throw from what is now the Keats-Shelley House. Turner’s exhibition in December 1828 at Palazzo Trulli (demolished half a century later to make way for Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) was attended by over a thousand visitors; however, the works received a predominantly unfavourable response, according to Turner expert David Blayney Brown. On 3 January 1829 Turner departed Rome for the last time, although the city’s ruins were to feature prominently in his future work. “Oh Rome! my country! city of the soul!” The Romantic poet Lord Byron (1788-1824) is undoubtedly the most colourful character on this list. Fleeing debts and a desperate personal situation, Byron left England in 1816, never to return, living mainly in Italy until his death in modern-day Greece aged 36. Byron befriended the Shelleys at Lake Geneva before travelling to Italy, where he was to spend seven years, predominantly in Venice, Pisa and Ravenna. According to popular myth he lodged at Piazza di Spagna 66, opposite the Keats-Shelley House, in 1817. On his return to Ravenna he wrote the fourth canto of his epic narrative poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, about half of which relates to Rome. The map features a couple of names who fit into neither painter nor writer category. One of these figures is James Clark (1788-1870), a Scottish doctor who operated a thriving

Ascending the steps to Trinità dei Monti, the map lists the American landscape painter Thomas Cole (1801-48) as living on Via Sistina, without a street number but with the vital clue that he was based at a studio once used by Claude Lorrain, from 1831-32 and again in 1841. According to a drawing in the collection of the British Museum the location of Lorrain’s former studio corresponds to Via Sistina 66, the building wedged between the start of Via Sistina and Via Gregoriana, opposite today’s Hotel Hassler. Next door at Via Sistina 64 lived the Irish portrait painter Amelia Curran (1775-1847), who moved to Rome in or around 1818, eking out a living painting portraits and copying old Masters. She is best known for her portrait of her friend Percy Bysshe Shelley, quill in hand, which was presumably painted at this address and is now in the National Portrait Gallery in London. Curran died in 1847, her funeral celebrated at the Franciscan church of St Isidore’s on Via degli Artisti 41. Here she is commemorated with a memorial featuring palette and brushes, carved by the prominent Rome-based Irish sculptor John Hogan (1800-58). On 7 May 1819, Percy Bysshe Shelley (1792-1822) and his wife Mary Shelley (1797-1851), fresh from penning her Gothic masterpiece Frankenstein, left their lodgings at Palazzo Verospi on Via del Corso 374 to move next door to Curran on Via Sistina 65, against the wishes of the family doctor, who advised Shelley to escape the city’s “mal’aria”. Although the elevated Via Sistina had the “best air in Rome” according to Shelley, one month after their move the Shelley’s threeyear-old son William “Willmouse” died of a 5 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History fever, most likely malaria. The heartbroken couple left Rome for the last time on 10 June 1819, after burying the boy, their third child to die, at the Non-Catholic Cemetery. Three and a half years later Shelley’s ashes would be interred in the same cemetery after his tragic death aged 29 during a storm off the Tuscan coast near Lerici. Veering slightly off-course now, turn left half-way down Via Sistina onto Via di Porta Pinciana. At the top of the street Palazzo Laranzani, number 37, hosted Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-64) in 1858. Hawthorne overcame his initial misgivings of Rome’s “wicked filth” to become enraptured with the city; his 1858 Gothic romance The Marble Faun was inspired after seeing a woodland scene of mythological sculpture in Villa Borghese. Hawthorne was affected profoundly by the tragic tale of Roman noblewoman Beatrice Cenci – who also inspired Shelley’s five-act drama The Cenci – and her portrait attributed to Guido Reni, which can be seen today at Palazzo Barberini. Turning back downhill towards Via Sistina, take the last left onto Via degli Artisti. From 1821 until 1824, when the street was still called Via di S. Isidoro, it hosted the English painter Joseph Severn (1793-1879) who lived in a large apartment at number 18, today the Hotel degli Artisti. Severn is linked eternally with Keats with whom he travelled to Rome in 1820 and whom he nursed devotedly in his dying days. Severn would outlive Keats by almost six decades, becoming an accomplished painter and a highly respected figure among Rome’s English-speaking community. In 1841 Severn moved back to England; however, 20 years later he returned to Rome as British Consul, a post he held for 11 years. When he died, aged 81, there was outrage that his resting place at the Non-Catholic Cemetery was not next to Keats. Several years later, Severn was reinterred beside his old friend. At the bottom of Via Sistina, cross over Piazza Barberini and up Via delle Quattro Fontane to Palazzo Barberini, home to Italy’s national gallery of ancient art. The American neoclassical sculptor and art critic William Wetmore Story (1819-95) lived here with his family from 1856, taking studios on nearby Via di S. Niccolò da Tolentino 4. For the next 6 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Amelia Curran painted Shelley’s portrait at Via Sistina in 1819.

four decades his apartment on the palace’s piano nobile was a bustling meeting place for distinguished expatriates, from Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning to Henry James. When his wife Emelyn died in 1894, Story carved the poignant Angel of Grief in the NonCatholic Cemetery which also became the artist’s resting place a year later (see cover of this issue). Returning to Piazza Barberini, turn left down Via del Tritone and at Largo del Tritone turn right and then first left onto Via della Mercede. When the Scottish poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) undertook his Grand Tour of Italy in 1832, he had achieved international acclaim for historical novels including Ivanhoe and Rob Roy and poems such as The Lady of the Lake (some of which inspired well-known Italian operas). However despite being greeted with much fanfare, Scott was in failing health by the time he reached Rome. He stayed at Via della Mercede 11 from 16 April until 11 May 1832 in the same palazzo in which Bernini had lived and died two centuries earlier. The building’s exterior hosts a plaque dedicated to Scott, who died on his return to Scotland several months later. Continue along Via della Mercede, cross Via del Corso, into Piazza del Parlamento to the rear of today’s chamber of deputies and

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William Wetmore Story’s much-replicated Angel of Grief memorial to his wife Emelyn at the Non-Catholic Cemetery. See cover of this issue.

along Via dei Prefetti to number 17, home to Samuel Morse (1791-1872) from February 1830 to January 1831, as commemorated by a plaque over the door. This American painter of portraits and historical scenes is best remembered as the inventor of the Morse Code. An outspoken opponent of “popery”, it is said that while in Rome the staunchly Calvinist Morse caused a stir by refusing to take off his hat in the presence of the pontiff. The next side-street to the right, Vicolo del Divino Amore, meanders to Palazzo Borghese where Lady Gwendoline Talbot (1817-40) moved from Staffordshire following her 1835 marriage to Prince Marcantonio Borghese. Described by King William IV as the “greatest beauty in the realm”, Gwendoline was known in Rome for her tireless charity work and ministry to the sick. She died of scarlet fever aged just 22, and her tomb in the Borghese Chapel at the Basilica of S. Maria di Maggiore carries the inscription “madre dei poverelli”. Incidentally, three years before her own marriage in Rome, Gwendoline’s elder sister Mary had married Prince Filippo Doria. Follow Via Borghese onto Via di Ripetta which the map lists as the 1859 address of Irish-born art historian Anna Brownell Jameson (1794-

1860). According to her biography by niece Gerardine Bate, Jameson occupied a “pleasant apartment close by the Tiber façade of the Palazzo Borghese, looking out over the river at the point known as the Porto di Ripetta.” Jameson also stayed at an unknown address in Piazza di Spagna in 1847, after making part of the journey from Paris to Rome with the Brownings – to undertake research for the best-selling work on which her reputation rests: Sacred and Legendary Art. Follow Via di Ripetta into Piazza del Popolo, turning right past the twin churches onto Via del Babuino. The first left is Via della Fontanella, where number 4 hosted the studios of Welsh sculptor John Gibson (17901866) from 1818 until his death four decades later. Gibson was originally the star pupil of Venetian master Antonio Canova and later Denmark’s Bertel Thorvaldsen before going on to make his fortune from monumental commissions, mainly from patrons in England. He is buried in the Non-Catholic Cemetery. Although not listed on the map it is worth mentioning Gibson’s only protégée Harriet Hosmer (1830-1908), who became the most distinguished female sculptor in America in the 19th century. 9 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History Via Vittoria until the street meets Via Mario de’ Fiori. The map lists this corner building, Palazzo Rondanini, as hosting the Romantic poet and former banker Samuel Rogers (17631855) while he put the final touches to Italy, a sumptuous edition of verse tales illustrated with vignettes by Turner, in 1829. Less known today, Rogers was highly prominent in his time, penning hugely popular poems such as The Pleasures of Memory. In 1850, on the death of Wordsworth, he declined the offer of Poet Laureate due to his age. Rogers first visited Rome in 1815 and again in 1822, when he met Byron and Shelley in Pisa.

Anna Brownell Jameson is best remembered for her Sacred and Legendary Art series of books.

Contuining down Via del Babuino, past All Saints’ Anglican Church, a bastion of British life in Rome since it opened in 1887, the map lists English author George Eliot (1819-80) as residing at Hotel Amerique in 1860. The hotel no longer exists but the building can be found at Via del Babuino 79. While touring Italy Eliot conceived the idea for her historical novel Romola as well as gathering background material for her future masterpiece Middlemarch, completed in 1871. Turn left into Vicolo dell’Orto di Napoli and straight ahead lies Via Margutta, a greenery-draped street long associated with painters and art studios. According to the map – perhaps incorrectly – Sir Thomas Lawrence (1769-1830) stayed at number 53 in 1822. This leading English portraitist travelled Europe painting foreign sovereigns and diplomats, including Pope Pius VII, and was hosted at the Palazzo del Quirinale from May 1819 until January 1820. Subsequently, as president of the Royal Academy, Lawrence granted his cautious approval and funding to Rome’s fledgling British Academy of Arts, established in 1821 by a group of artists led by Severn. This life drawing academy was based initially at Severn’s apartments on Via degli Artisti and then moved to Via Margutta 53b from 1895 until its closure in January 1936. Back on Via del Babuino continue towards Piazza di Spagna, taking the second right onto 10 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Take the next left onto Via Bocca di Leone where, at number 43, the poets Robert Browning (1812-89) and Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-61) spent two winters, in 1853 and 1858, commemorated by a plaque in their honour. They returned to Rome for the winter of 1859, staying at Via del Tritone 28, and spent the following winter at Via Sistina 126. Less than a month after leaving Rome on 1 June 1861 Elizabeth died in Florence, where she is buried in the English Cemetery. The Brownings are also remembered with a writers’ museum at their former Casa Guidi residence in Florence. Continue along Via Bocca di Leone until Hotel d’Inghilterra at number 14, where the American novelist Henry James (18431916) stayed in 1869, when it was called Hotel d’Angleterre. From here the author immediately reeled through Rome’s streets “in a fever of enjoyment.” His arrival coincided with the dying days of papal Rome, an era he was to mourn in subsequent years. Considered among the greatest novelists in the English language, James was inspired by the social and cultural interplay between Americans, English people and continental Europeans. His experience of life in Rome is referenced in his novel Portrait of a Lady, whose central character Isabel Archer lived unhappily at the Palazzo Roccanero on an unnamed street off Piazza Farnese. Turning back a few paces, take the first right onto Via dei Condotti which hosted the former Hotel d’Allemagne, owned by the German family of watercolourist Ettore Roesler Franz, whose romantic paintings of Rome and its surroundings are still popular

History today. It was here that the English writer William Makepeace Thackeray (1811-63) stayed on his first visit to Rome during 184445. Thackeray returned to the hotel in 1853 with his daughters Anne Isabella and Jane but soon moved to a large apartment at Palazzo Poniatowski, at nearby Via della Croce 81, on the advice of the Brownings. Describing a “gay and pleasant English colony in Rome”, Thackeray wrote in his memoir The Newcomes: “the ancient city of the Cæsars, the august fanes of the popes, with their splendour and ceremony, are all mapped out and arranged for English diversion.” On returning full-circle to the foot of the Spanish Steps, how better to conclude the map-inspired tour than taking a coffee or aperitif at the Caffè Greco. Established in 1790, this venerable institution was frequented by most of the people on this list (although Hawthorne was not a fan), their memories enshrined today with portraits and literary memorabilia throughout the bar. The Keats-Shelley House director, Giuseppe Albano, points out that the map and its accompanying list of names contain several anomalies (Byron is listed as having stayed at Piazza di Spagna 26 – the address of the Keats-Shelley House – instead of number 66) and is “male-orientated” (Mary Shelley and Elizabeth Barrett Browning are not mentioned alongside their respective husbands).

Finally, perhaps due to its timeline or maybe the attendant scandal, the map fails to record the three-month stay at Hotel d’Inghilterra of Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), six months before his death in Paris. Over the years attempts to discover the artist behind the map in the Keats-Shelley House have come to no avail. Whatever its provenance, and despite any inconsistencies, it inspires a fascinating search for traces of these bygone wordsmiths and painters whose presence in Rome is still felt today. Places of interest Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, www.keats-shelley-house.org. Non-Catholic Cemetery, Via Caio Cestio 6, www.cemeteryrome.it. Antico Caffè Greco, Via dei Condotti 86, www. anticocaffegreco.eu. Further reading The Dream of Arcadia: American Writers and Artists in Italy 1760-1915, (1958) by Van Wyck Brooks. Joseph Severn, A Life: The Rewards of Friendship (2009) by Sue Brown. The Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome: Its history, its people and its survival for 300 years (2014) by Nicholas Stanley-Price. Welsh sculptor John Gibson, depicted here in a portrait by Margaret Sarah Carpenter, did a roaring trade from his studios off Via del Babuino.

The map also includes a few rather obscure names at the expense of towering literary figures such as Charles Dickens (1812-70) who stayed in Rome in early 1845 while gathering material for his book Pictures from Italy, or Thomas Hardy (1840-1928) whose 1887 visit inspired the poem Rome at the Pyramid of Cestius Near the Graves of Shelley and Keats. Another glaring omission is Edith Wharton (1862-1937), whose regular travels around Italy in the late 19th century resulted in several erudite guides and travel tales, once describing Rome as exciting “a passion of devotion such as no other city can inspire.” Also omitted is the far less impressed Mark Twain (1835-1910), who in 1867 felt that he had been cheated of discovering anything in Rome as it had all been experienced before. 11 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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LAZIO’S MOST MYSTERIOUS CASTLE THE STRANGE, MULTI-LAYERED STORY OF ROCCA SINIBALDA

Margaret Stenhouse Rocca Sinibalda’s unusual architectural form is matched by its equally bizarre history.

he 12th-century Rocca Sinibalda sits on a spur of rock dominating the Turano Valley, a 40-minute drive north of Rome, on what was once a vital trade route between the Medici territories and the papal states. Looking across the valley from the opposite side, the Castle of the Eagle, as it is called, makes a romantic picture – a typical mediaeval fortress, with massive bastion walls topped with battlements and lookout turrets. However, there is nothing typical about Rocca Sinibalda, a fortress-cum-palace with several names, a bizarre architectural form, a quirky history and a unique and disquieting art collection. As well as the Castle of the Eagle, it is also called the Castle of Metamorphoses, while the plaque by the entry door refers to it as the Castle of Invented Destinies. Each of these names refers to a crucial phase in the fortress’s chequered history.

Castle of the Eagle, its most usual name, refers to its eccentric shape. According to records, it was first built in the 11th century as a classic Norman stronghold by Count Sinibaldo, the governor of the Sabina area, and survived the following couple of centuries of bloody clashes among local warring barons. In 1539, the Medici Pope Leone X handed the castle over to his great friend Cardinal Alessandro Cesarini. Cesarini was a man of refined tastes, who liked his comforts, who commissioned Baldassarre Peruzzi, one of the architects working on St Peter’s, to transform the interior into a noble residence. Peruzzi’s expansions included the two “eagle wing” bastions jutting out at the rear and the pointed “bird beak” (or “scorpion”, according to some) at the front, overlooking the hamlet below. Thanks to its novel architectural design, Rocca Sinibalda was declared a national monument in 1928. 13 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Trips out of town Two grimacing devils crouch inside the entrance to a series of dark, cellar-like rooms filled with gloomy tableaux and macabre installations portraying the more tragic aspects of the human condition, set up by Vincenzo Padiglione, a professor of psychology at La Sapienza University of Rome, and anthropologist, collector and ethnographic museum curator.

Some of the unusual masks on display at Rocca Sinibalda.

The building takes its second name, the Castle of Metamorphoses, from the decorations in the reception rooms of the piano nobile, a 16th-century riot of grotesques and legendary hybrid creatures inspired by Ovid’s fanciful tales of myth and transformation. The true focus of the castle, however, is its art collection, combining an intriguing mix of classic landscape painting, contemporary installations and the ritual masks of Native American peoples of the Pacific coast of the USA and Canada. The 18th-century frescoes and landscapes in the great hall are eclipsed by the sculpture group of the Realm of the Mothers by the Italo-Argentinean artist Marcos Cei, which dominates the centre of the room. The three dark, scrawny mothers, personified by a winged Angela, a flame-spouting Vulcania, and a one-breasted warrior Amazonia are figures of terror, composed of scrap iron, chains, bolts, wire and discarded machine parts. Stretched out prostrate on the floor near them are a couple of life-sized human figures made up of collages of assorted pieces, representing the suffering of immigrants (see page 15). These are an introduction of what lies downstairs, in the “Inferi”, or nightmare underworld, seat of the permanent StraVOLTI exhibition, inaugurated in 2014. 14 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The next set of rooms is dedicated to Rocca Sinibalda’s important collection of totems and ritual masks from endangered ethnic minority groups of the north-west Pacific coast of North America. Many of these works are by wellknown Canadian and Inuit artists such as Art Thomson, Beau Dick, Ron Telek and Tom Hunt, members of the First Nations Community of peoples who inhabited the American continent before the arrival of the Europeans. The castle has a vast collection of ritual masks and First Nation art which reflect the distinctive styles and traditions of each single people. Over 500 exotic and contemporary masks in the collection belong to Padiglione. Since 1972, the castle has been in the hands of a foundation, headed by psychoanalyst and business consultant Enrico Pozzi and his anthropologist wife Cristina Cenci. When they took over the old stronghold-palace, it had been abandoned for many years after the previous owner, the eccentric American millionairess Polly Crosby (better known by her adopted first name “Caresse”) moved out. The castle had fallen into disrepair and the new owners entrusted architect Claudio Silvestrin with the job of conversion and reconstruction. The difficult restoration took seven years, and won the prestigious Chicago Athenaeum International Architectural Award in 2014. Tangible traces of Crosby’s dynamic and unconventional personality remain. The main entrance through the courtyard, under the “eagle’s beak”, leads onto a long shallow pool open to the sky. This was where the guests of the former owner sat with their feet in the water while they meditated, composed poetry and philosophised. Inside, a long underground gallery leads to a small amphitheatre backing on to the mediaeval water storage cistern. This was where Crosby’s guests staged experimental

Trips out of town performances of theatre, poetry and dance. The string of visitors included Ezra Pound, Salvador Dalì, Allen Ginsberg, Robert Snyder and The Living Theatre founders, Julian Beck and Judith Malina, along with many others, including Crosby’s bosom chum and sister socialite Peggy Guggenheim. The “Black Sun Press”, the publishing house that she founded with her third husband Harry Crosby, printed beautiful editions of hand-crafted books, as well as the early works of Ernest Hemingway, Henry Miller, Archibald MacLeish, Anaïs Nin, Charles Bukowski, D.H. Lawrence, Laurence Stern, James Joyce and other controversial early 20th-century writers. After she divorced her first husband, she moved to Europe and became part of the “Lost Generation” of American ex-patriots who lived it up in Paris with wild parties, drugs and open marriages. She changed her name to the more exotic-sounding “Caresse” in 1924 when she married Crosby. Unfortunately this marriage was no more fortunate than her previous ones. Harry Crosby was fascinated with death and symbolism and he committed suicide in 1929 along with his young “Fire Princess”, Josephine Noyes Rotch. Crosby was not long in finding consolation. Her many lovers included photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson, (whose camera is on display in the great hall). He was so broken-hearted by their break-up that he took off in self-imposed exile to the French

colonial Ivory Coast to recover. Crosby went on regardless, creating scandal after scandal. Crosby moved to her Rome residence in 1970 and put the castle up for sale shortly before she died at 78 of pneumonia, but her legacy lingers on. Its tradition as a centre of experimental art continues with seminars and residential programmes for international artists. And this is where the third name – the Castle of Invented Destinies – comes in, with a biennial festival of the arts, organised and created in house by groups of young international artists of various disciplines who come for short study stays at the castle. The first edition in 2014 attracted sold-out audiences for its version of Richard III. The theme of “The Hanged Man” in the second edition, centred on the most mysterious card in the tarot pack, was inspired by Italo Calvino’s enigmatic book The Castle of Crossed Destinies. True to type, the 2018 festival in July explored another disquieting subject, centring on the Black Death. The performance Endecameron was inspired this time by Edgar Allen Poe’s horror story The Masque of the Red Death. Guided tours of the castle for individual visitors are available on Saturdays at 16.00 and Sundays at 11.00. Prior booking is necessary. Visits at other times can be arranged for groups of at least 15 people. For info tel. 0644233634, info@ castelloroccasinibalda.it, www.castellodestininventati.it.

Prof. Padiglione giving a tour of the castle’s avant-garde artworks.

A taxi driver had a miraculous escape after his car was hit by a falling pine in Prati last October.

15 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

A short guide to some of the most important international Cultural Academies in Rome representing countries from around the world in the Eternal city.

Cultural Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com.

BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. • |4 Wanted Rome 2017 16 |in Oct 2018 • april Wanted in Rome

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

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18 | Oct 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org.

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it.

GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de.

ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

19 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 1

Immerse yourself in the Dream exhibit at Chiostro del Bramante. Use your WiR card for ticket discounts.

Romaeuropa Festival presents internationally renowned Italian theatre company Anagoor at Teatro Argentina.

Check out the radical new Asilo art project at MACRO on Via Nizza, with free entry for the next 15 months.

Mark the feast day of St Francis of Assisi by visiting the 13th-century basilica in the saint’s home town.

Visit the immersive French Impressionists exhibition experience at Palazzo degli Esami in Trastevere.

15 Brush up on your Italian and enroll in a course with Ciao Italia. Get a 20 per cent discount with your WiR card.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Don’t miss opening night of Mozart’s Magic Flute at the Teatro dell’Opera. WiR cardholders receive a discount on tickets.

Rome’s Globe Theatre ends the season with The Merchant of Venice by London's Bedouin Shakespeare Company.

Check out the Vittoriano for an impressive exhibition dedicated to Jackson Pollock and the New York School.

Warhol fans must see the exhibition at the Vittoriano to mark what would have been the artist's 90th birthday.

For a romantic late-night cocktail with a casual atmosphere try Osteria Mavi. Get 10 per cent off with your WiR card.

It is opening night of the Rome Film Fest: this year’s highlights include a talk with Cate Blanchett.

Support art projects and artists in the capital by participating in events presented by Rome Art Week.

Use your WiR card at Odeon Cinema to see an English language movie with a discount on tickets.

Immerse yourself in the surreal world of digital artist Ray Caesar at the Dorothy Circus Gallery.

Visit the artificial waterfalls at Marmore in Umbria but make sure to check the times beforehand.

Take a trip to mediaeval town Corinaldo for the Festa delle Streghe (witches) for an entertaining Halloween.

Head to the top floor of La Rinascente on Via del Tritone for Halloween-themed cookies and cake pops.

Scholars Lounge embraces Halloween's Irish origins with fancy dress and dj until the wee hours.

Fri

Sat 5

International djs descend on Rome for electronic music festival Spring Attitude at Mattatoio and Ex-Dogana.

Oct Sun 2018 7

Join the crowds at Romics, the popular comic book festival featuring special guests from the world of animation.

Join the marathon at Villa Pamphilj to support Peter Pan charity which helps families of children with cancer.

Popular street food festival Enjoy the best of artisanal Marvel at the inventions on GNAM returns this year in a craft beers from over 70 display at this year's Maker new location in EUR near brewers at EurHop! Faire at Fiera di Roma. the lake.

The innovative VideocittĂ kicks off tonight around the city: head to the Colosseum to catch a projection from Gucci.

Parents might be interested in the Open Day at the German School of Rome, from 11.00 to 17.00. See page 49 for details.

Today is the last day to see the finalists of the Young Architectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Program at MAXXI, in partnership with MoMA.

Treat yourself to a professional salon experience at Toni & Guy hairdressers. Receive 15 per cent off services with WiR card.

Grab tickets to see Ben Vatican Museums are free Harper perform live at today from 09.00 and 12.30, Auditorium Parco della leaving by 14.00. Musica.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun www.sssrome.it of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza Palazzo Massimo alle Terme di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beRoman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.coloscoins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, seo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed. Via Aventina 3, 00153 Colosseum and the Palatine Rome, (includingItaly the Museo Palatino; www.sssrome.it last+39 entry065750605 one hour before /closing). Guided tours in English tel: email: ststephens@sssrome.it and Italian. 24 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools & Colleges

St. Stephen’s School Rome

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Casa di Goethe

Capitoline Museums

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro del Bramante

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Galleria Colonna

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. MATTATOIO Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. www.museomacro.org.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio De Chirico House Museum

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum documents the persecution of Jews and resistance figures who were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

26 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria PIOMONTI

Founded by gallerist Pio Monti, this gallery has promoted the work of major contemporary Italian artists since 1969. Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744, www.piomonti.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Montoro 12

Galleria Mucciaccia

Nomas Foundation

Galleria Valentina Moncada

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Philobiblon Gallery

The Rome branch of this international franchise hosts exhibitions in addition to dealing in antique books. Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel. 0645555970, www.philobiblon.org.

Pian de Giullari

This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Plus Arte Puls

La Nuova Pesa

RvB ARTS

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 3482833034.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com. Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

27 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS RAY CAESAR: LOST IN A FRAGILE MYTH 20 Oct-20 Nov

The Dorothy Circus Gallery presents its third exhibition by leading digital artist Ray Caesar who infuses his surreal works with elements of Art Deco and Victorian scenes. The latest Rome show includes new works alongside limited and one-of-akind edition prints by the British artist. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.

OVIDIO: AMORI, MITI E ALTRE STORIE 17 Oct-20 Jan

Under the title Love, myths and other stories, this exhibition is dedicated to the life, work and legacy of Ovid. The show explores the central themes of Ovid’s writings: love, seduction and the relationship between power and myth. The display includes more than 200 works including frescoes and ancient sculptures, precious mediaeval manuscripts and paintings of the modern age. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 6, tel. 0681100256, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

SARAH SZE 13 Oct-12 Jan

The Gagosian presents an exhibition of new works by the American multimedia artist Sarah Sze who represented the US at the Venice Biennale in 2013 and 2015. Sze’s video installation Half Moon (2018) transforms the gallery space into a monumental magic lantern suspended between the worlds of sculpture and film, while her new series of paintings sees sculptural elements translated into two-dimensional imagery. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com.

Ray Caesar at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Flower Garden.

POLLOCK AND THE NEW YORK SCHOOL 10 Oct-24 feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition dedicated to American Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock along with his artist peers such as Willem de Kooning and Franz Kline. The artists belonged to the New York School, an informal movement of avantgarde painters, poets, dancers and musicians active in New York in the 1950s and 1960s. The painters were driven by experimentation and anti-conformism, particularly evident in the action painting of Pollock - known as “Jack the Dripper” - because of his revolutionary way of applying paint to canvas. The Rome exhibition comprises around 50 works including Pollock’s 3-m long Number 27. Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www. ilvittoriano.com.

PIXAR: 30 YEARS OF ANIMATION 9 Oct-20 Jan Palazzo

delle

Esposizioni

celebrates three decades of Pixar, the California-based animation company which has combined art and cutting-edge technology to create movies enjoyed by children and adults alike. Described as a “plunge into the creative universe of Pixar”, the exhibition comprises more than 400 drawings, sculptures, sketches, collages, storyboards and video material from the celebrated Pixar studios. The show features muchloved characters from movies such as the ground-breaking Toy Story as well as Cars, Monsters, Inc and Finding Nemo. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

FRENCH IMPRESSIONISTS: MONET TO CÉZANNE 5 Oct-9 Jan

Grande Exhibitions present an immersive exhibition experience inspired by the lives and works of the French Impressionists, at Palazzo degli Esami in Trastevere. The exhibition uses interactive audiovisual technology to bring the Impressionists’ work to 31 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

life, and is brought to Rome by the same virtual reality experts behind the recent Van Gogh Alive experience. For tickets see Ticketone website, www. ticketone.it. Palazzo degli Esami, Via Girolamo Induno 4.

ANGELA MARIA PIGA: APPRODO 4 Oct-17 Nov

Under the title Approdo (meaning Haven), the first solo exhibition of Roman sculptor Angela Maria Piga features a series of recently-created ceramics. With a background as an art journalist, Piga observes: “If in the writing the narration creates imaginary forms, in sculpture the form creates its own stories.” The works, glazed and colourful, are inspired mainly from mythology and fairytales. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

ANDY WARHOL 3 Oct-3 feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition of more than 170 works by the late Pop art supremo Andy Warhol on the 90th anniversary of his birth. The show comes ahead of an unprecedented exhibition dedicated to Warhol’s religiousJackson Pollock at the Vittoriano. Number 27.

Pixar: 30 anni di animazione at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Goodbye Andy from Toy Story 3 by Robert Kondo. themed works scheduled to take place in the Vatican during 2019. Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www.ilvittoriano.com.

ASILO 1 Oct-31 Dec 2019

MACRO on Via Nizza will be free to visitors for the next 15 months as part of an experimental art programme known as Asilo (meaning refuge), under the direction of curator Giorgo De Finis. Around 250 contemporary artists will be given space to work, perform and interact with the public, and the programme envisages the creation of 400 videoart works, 1,000 lessons, 60 concerts and 900 self-portraits. De Finis, known as the founder of Rome’s MAAM street art museum, says the traditional exhibition format will be abandoned with the goal of transforming MACRO into a “living museum.” The first few months will see the participation of major artists such as Michelangelo Pistoletto, Pablo Echaurren and Wim Wenders, while the series of 180 lectures features international figures such as Claire Bishop, Mary Ann Caws, Don Thompson and Sally Price. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.it.

DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-5 May

The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of

dream-themed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey.” The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Mario Merz, Christian Boltanski, Kate MccGwire, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola, Luigi Ontani, Ettore Spalletti and James Turrell. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

EDDIE PEAKE: PEOPLE 22 Sept-10 Nov

Eddie Peake is a young British painter, sculptor and performance artist whose focuses exclusively on the medium of painting, referencing classic themes such as portraiture, self-portraiture and art history. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill. com.

A grass bed 2o Sept-28 oct

Rome based artists Lisa Fedich and Elizabeth Frolet present an exhibition of works inspired by the poems of Keats, Shelley and other poets buried at the Non-Catholic Cemetery. Fedich exhibits mixed-media works (see cover of this edition) while Frolet displays ceramics. Non-Catholic Cemetery, Via Caio Cestio 6, www. cemeteryrome.it. 33 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

LA ROMA DEI RE: IL RACCONTO DELL’ARCHEOLOGIA

Eternal City at the Vittoriano. Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana by Tim Benton.

27 July-27 Jan

The Capitoline Museums examine the most ancient stage in Rome’s history: the Roman Kingdom which is traditionally dated from 753 BC with the city’s founding to the overthrow of the monarchy around 509 BC. The exhibition contains over 800 artefacts, dating from the sixth to the tenth centuries BC, including urns, amphorae, sculptures, skeletal remains and necklaces, as well as decorated fragments from tombs and temples. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini. org.

GEISHA: L’ARTE, LA PERSONA 26 July-30 Oct

Exhibition of photographs and 19th-century objects related to geishas, Japanese women who study the ancient tradition of art, dance and singing, and are characterised by traditional costumes and makeup. The exhibition examines the society, knowledge of the arts, fashion and pastimes associated with geishas whose origins date back to the seventh century. Museo delle Civiltà, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14, (EUR), tel. 06549521, www.museocivilta.beniculturali.it.

ARMI E POTERE 26 July-11 Nov

The world of weapons and armour from the Renaissance era is examined in a joint exhibition held at Castel S. Angelo and Palazzo di Venezia, home to two of the world’s most important collections of historic weapons. The exhibition, part of the ARTCITY festival programme, also features ancient military text books and a series of international loans. For details see www.artcity.it. 34 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

STILL SHOWING BRIC-à-BRAC | THE JUMBLE OF GROWTH | 17 July – 14 Oct

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna hosts an exhibition of about 40 works by 26 international artists who explore themes such as globalisation and the social consequences of progress. The show’s multilingual title alludes to the “chaotic and conflictual” growth of emerging national economies, in particular the so-called BRICS nations: Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM), Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

donatello at palazzo venezia 12 July-28 April

Palazzo Venezia displays the precious terracotta bust depicting S. Lorenzo by the early Italian Renaissance sculptor Donato de’ Bardi (c.1386-1466), better known as Donatello. It is thought that Donatello made the bust for a church in the Tuscan town of Borgo S. Lorenzo in Mugello around 1440, the same period as he created his bronze David. Lost for centuries, the bust was only rediscovered in 2003. In 1889 it entered the collection of the Princes of Liechtenstein, where it became misattributed. The 15th-century masterpiece

was sold in 2003 as a “19thcentury work in Renaissance style” and is currently in the collection of Paris-based collectors Peter Silverman and Kathleen Onorato. Palazzo Venezia, Piazza Venezia 3, tel. 0669994284, w w w. m u s e o p a l a z z o v e n e z i a . beniculturali.it.

I CONFINI DELL’IMPERO ROMANO 6 July – 18 NOV

Under the subheading Il Limes danubiano – Da Traiano a Marco Aurelio, this interactive exhibition at Trajan’s Markets focuses on the frontiers of the Roman empire. The so-called Roman Limes, recognised officially by UNESCO in 2015, represent the fortified borders of the empire at its greatest extent in the second century AD. The exhibition includes video and documents relating to the Roman fortresses, military camps, villages, sanctuaries, burial areas, ports and roads built along the Danubian Limes whose territory corresponds to modern-day Slovakia, Germany, Austria and Hungary. Trajan’s Markets, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

JOAQUÍN ROCA REY: LE FORME DEL MITO 5 July-4 Nov

Museo Carlo Bilotti shows 25 sculptures by Joaquín Roca Rey (1923-2004), dating from 1956 until 2001. Roca Rey is considered among the most

important Peruvian sculptors of the 20th century and his works in iron, steel, bronze and marble show the influence of Henry Moore. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

ETERNAL CITY 28 JuNE-28 OCT

Organised in collaboration with the British School at Rome this exhibition comprises a selection of Rome images chosen from the many thousands in the collection of the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA). The majority of the photographers featured are British and the images date from the birth of photography to the present day. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www.ilvittoriano.com.

AFRICAN METROPOLIS. AN IMAGINARY CITY 22 June-4 Nov

Described as a “detailed overview of the artistic and cultural scene of the African continent”, this exhibition comprises the works of around 40 artists reflecting on Africa’s ongoing social and cultural changes. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www. maxxi.art.

PETER KIM 21 June-4 Nov

The Museo Carlo Bilotti dedicates an exhibition to the New-York based Korean artist Peter Kim Angela Maria Piga at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea. Cacciatore.

Dream. L’arte incontra i sogni at Chiostro del Bramante. Light is Time by Tsuyoshi Tane. whose work addresses themes such as memory, time and the relationship between culture and nature. On display are Kim’s vessels and skeins, made from coloured threads, alongside a series of drawings, videos and a site-specific artwork on the terrace. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6 (Villa Borghese), www.museocarlobilotti.it.

DUILIO CAMBELLOTTI: MITO, SOGNO E REALTA’ 6 June-11 Nov

Villa Torlonia dedicates a comprehensive retrospective to the Roman illustrator, painter, set and costume designer and sculptor Duilio Cambellotti (1876-1960). The exhibition comprises around 230 works spanning six decades of Cambellotti’s career. Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www.museivillatorlonia. it.

MAXXI BULGARI PRIZE 1 June-28 OCT

The MAXXI Bulgari Prize is designed to nurture the development of young international artists and the winner will be announced in London this month. The three finalists are New York’s Talia Chetrit, who presents the photo and video project Amateur; Invernomuto composed of Simone Bertuzzi and Simone Trabucchi, who present the film Calendoola; and Paris-

based Diego Marcon who has created a sound installation, a sculpture and a perfume. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

ECO E NARCISO 18 MAY-28 OCT

To celebrate the opening of 11 new rooms at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica at Palazzo Barberini, the museum presents a series of portraits and self-portraits from its collection alongside contemporary works from the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo. The exhibition is described as a dialogue between ancient and modern. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.

ROMA CITTà MODERNA 29 MARCH-28 OCT

Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art traces the evolution of art in the capital from the time of mayor Ernesto Nathan (19071913) up to 1968, a turbulent year of social and political strife in Europe. The exhibition comprises around 150 paintings, sculptures and prints from the city collection. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. 35 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Street artist Blu unveils his latest Rome mural in the eastern Quarticciolo suburb of the city.

ART NEWS MAJOR CHANGES FOR VISITORS TO ITALY’S MUSEUMS Italy’s culture minister Alberto Bonisoli has announced a plan for 20 days of free admission to state museums and archaeological sites, including a free museum week in March and €2 tickets for museum visitors aged under 25, as part of major museum changes to be introduced in 2019. Bonisoli has also postponed the scrapping of Domenica al Museo, the free entry scheme to Italy’s museums on the first Sunday of each month, until March. The minister had previously announced his intention to end the popular initiative after this summer. The first edition of Settimana della Cultura in March 2019 will comprise six days in a row of free admission to museums and archaeological sites, according to Bonisoli’s announcement on his Facebook page on 13 September. Museum managers will have an additional eights free days available, to be used at their discretion. The package of free days can even be extended, on request, with the further option of introducing specific time slots allowing free entry. In addition museums remain free for those under 18 while young people aged between 18 and 25 will pay a discounted entry fee of €2 to enter museums and archaeological sites. Bonisoli said that the raft of new measures, which will be introduced in March, are aimed at encouraging a “hunger for culture among young people” and that there will be “more free entry [to museums] compared to the past.” 36 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

GIANT ROME MURAL BY BLU The celebrated Bolognese street artist Blu has completed a giant mural in Rome’s eastern Quarticciolo suburb featuring a modern interpretation of the statues of Venus de Milo and Michelangelo’s David. Blu has painted the façade of the former police headquarters in Piazza del Quarticciolo, a sixstorey building which has been occupied illegally for about 20 years by 30 families. The artist’s Venus is portrayed with a gold chain, designer handbag and a toy poodle, while the portly David is painted with a blingy gold wristwatch, busy taking a selfie. The artist is already known in the capital for his large-scale work on the exterior of the former barracks on Via del Porto Fluviale in Ostiense, and gained notoriety in 2014 when then mayor Ignazio Marino ordered the removal of a mural by the artist in the S. Basilio suburb in north-east Rome. The city had objected to Blu’s “illegal, offensive and defamatory” depiction of pigs wearing police uniforms but in the end Marino backed down and the city merely white-washed the offending lower right section of the mural. Although acclaimed internationally, the camera-shy Blu remains an outside figure among his street artist peers. RETURN OF ROME ART WEEK The third edition of Rome Art Week (RAW), the contemporary art festival of free cultural events in Roman galleries and studios, takes place across the capital from 22-27 October. Last year’s festival saw the participation of 120 galleries and cultural institutions, with 33 art projects and 278 artists. This year the programme is organised according to districts, allowing RAW fans to attend multiple events in the same general area. Another novelty is the publication, in English and Italian, of a directory of 120 galleries associated with RAW. The collaborative, independent and non-profit venture has the support of the city of Rome and the Lazio region as well as Italy’s culture ministry. For full details, in English, see website, www.romeartweek.com. AMACI CONTEMPORARY ART DAY IN ROME The 14th edition of Italy’s Giornata del Contemporaneo takes place in modern art galleries in Rome and across Italy on 13 October. Organised by AMACI, the Association of Italian Contemporary Art Museums, the initiative also involves commercial art galleries and associations staying open late with a variety of shows and performances. For full list of participating Rome galleries see AMACI website, www.amaci.org.

Andy Devane

FONDAZIONE CINEMA PER ROMA

S. Cecilia celebrates the centenary of the birth of Leonard Bernstein.

CLASSICAL ROME Rome’s musical season is just starting up again in October but not all the musical associations’ programmes were available at the time of going to press. See Accademia Filarmonica, www. filarmonicaromana.org and Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, www.concertiiuc.it for up-to-date information.

ACCADEMIA S.CECILIA UGO UGHI 3 OCT

This concert marks the launch of Ughi’s new recording Note d’Europa by Sony Classical. Ughi performs some of the pieces on the new CD together with the I Filarmonici di Roma. Ughi has chosen music from seven European countries, Austria, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Poland and Spain. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

WEST SIDE STORY BY LEONARD BERNSTEIN 12-14 OCT

To mark the centenary of Leonard 38 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Bernstein’s birth Antonio Pappano directs the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia in West Side Story. The part of Maria is sung by Nadine Sierra and Tony by Alek Shrader. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ROSSINI, PETITE MESSE SOLENELLE 15 OCT

The star cast of singers for Rossini’s Petite Messe Solenelle includes Maria Devia soprano, Sara Mingardo mezzo-soprano, Sergei Romanovsky tenor and Michele Pertusi bass. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

sol gabetta 18-20 OCT

Cellist Sol Gabetta plays Lalo’s cello concerto. She does not often perform this concerto because, as she explains, orchestras find it a “tricky” piece without the standard concerto structure, putting the soloist centre stage with much more freedom than usual. She says that it therefore requires an exceptional conductor who is constantly sensitive to the needs and timings of both orchestra and soloist. The programme also

includes Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Giulietta and Sibelius symphony no 2. The orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia are conducted by Mikko Franck. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

other venues Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts. Sol Gabetta plays the unusual Lalo cello concerto at S. Cecilia.

Ben Harper plays at Auditorium Parco della Musica on 27 October.

MORCHEEBA 4 nov

ROCK, POP, JAZz BEN HARPER

DUB FX

27 Oct

2 nov

The award-winning American singer-songwriter and musician Ben Harper returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica four years after his last concert in 2014. Harper’s musical style involves an eclectic mix of blues, folk, soul, reggae and rock music. He is known for his energetic live shows and hits such as Diamonds on the Inside and Waiting on an Angel. For tickets see Ticketone website, www.ticketone.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982.

Morcheeba returns to Rome with a concert at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The London band has a unique sound that mixes influences from trip hop, rock and pop, and is best known for hits Rome wasn’t built in day, Enjoy the Ride and Otherwise. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982. Morcheeba at Auditorium Parco della Musica on 4 November.

Dub FX performs at Monk Club alongside his regular collaborator, and fellow Australian, the saxophonist Mr Woodnote. Dub FX is a street performer and studio recording artist known for his live music using looping and effect pedals combined with his voice. He creates intricate hip hop, reggae and drum and bass rhythms. For details see Monk website. Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www. monkroma.it.

festivals in italy

Rossini, Donizetti and Meyerbeer. The festival is so popular that most of the tickets were already sold out by the end of August. www.teatroregioparma.it.

RAVENNA FESTIVAL 23 Nov-2 Dec

PARMA VERDI FESTIVAL 27 Sept-21 Oct

The four Verdi operas in the 2018 Parma Verdi festival are Macbeth 27 Sept-11 Oct at the Teatro Regio,

Un Giorno di Regno 28 Sept-21 Oct at Teatro Verdi, Le Trouvère 29 Sept-14 Oct at Teatro Farnese and Attila 30 Sept-21 Oct Teatro Regio. There are also concerts of works by

The autumn part of the Ravenna festival consists of three Verdi operas, Nabucco, Rigoletto and Otello. All details about the festival are on the easy-to-use website where it is possible to search by date, location, genre, www.ravennafestival.org. 41 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Cate Blanchett is a special guest of the Rome Film Fest.

Lola Arias stages a confrontation between Argentine and British veterans of the Falklands / Malvinas war (16-18 Nov). There are also numerous children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids, as well as the ninth edition of the parallel futuristic section DigitalLive, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology. For programme and tickets see website, www.romaeuropa.net.

SPRING ATTITUDE FESTIVAL 4-6 oct

festivals ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL: BETWEEN WORLDS 19 Sept-25 Nov

The 33rd edition of Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival is a particularly international affair this year, with 311 artists from 24 countries contributing to the programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology. Under the title Between Worlds, the festival continues to expand, with 27 venues across Rome hosting 68 projects, 168 shows, 38 national premieres and more than 60 companies of which 40 are collaborating with Romaeuropa for the first time. Artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi describes the 2018 programme as a “World Festival”, crossing themes, generations and borders. Divided into categories Stories, Visions and Sounds, highlights this year include musical theatre with The diary of One who Disappeared by Dutch director Ivo Van Hove with Toneelgroep Amsterdam, based on the 22-scene song cycle by Czech composer Leoš Janáček (6 Oct); the Italian premiere of The Prisoner by Peter Brook with Marie Hèlène Estienne, in English (11-20 Oct, see Theatre page 47); The Congo Tribunal film by Swiss director Milo Rau; and the International Institute of Political Murder (8 Nov), Minefield in which Argentine director 42 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Under the billing “Fall is the new Spring”, organisers have moved the Spring Attitude Festival from its usual May schedule to an autumn date. The three-day festival dedicated to electronic music and its emerging sounds returns to Rome with its eighth edition. This year’s festival line-up includes important Italian and international names such as Max Cooper, The Maghreban, Jeremy Underground and Laurel Halo. Events are scheduled to take place at the Mattatoio in Testaccio and the Ex Dogana in S. Lorenzo. For programme see website, www. springattitude.it.

ROME FILM FEST 18-28 Oct

Organisers of the Rome Film Fest have released a sneak preview of the upcoming festival which will be held at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and other venues around the capital. Acclaimed Italian-American director Martin Scorsese will receive the annual festival’s Lifetime Achievement Award and take part in a public

discussion dedicated to Italian cinema. Other international figures from the world of cinema engaging in public conversations include Australian actress Cate Blanchett, US actress Sigourney Weaver and Italian director Giuseppe Tornatore. The 2018 programme also features retrospectives dedicated to English actor Peter Sellers and French director Maurice Pialat, and an exhibition on Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni. The complete line-up will be announced on 5 October. For details see website, www. romacinemafest.it.

videocittà 4-6 oct

Italy hosts a major festival dedicated to the international audiovisual industry, held in collaboration with India on the 70th anniversary of bilateral relations between the two countries. The ten-day festival will incude more than 60 events in 42 locations around Rome, in partnership with this year’s Festa del Cinema. A central focus of the programme is the Video Factory at the Ex Dogana in S. Lorenzo where industry experts will host free masterclasses in costume and set design, dubbing and special effects. Another highlight will be the videomapping of the Palazzo della Civiltà – the headquarters of Fendi – by Laszlo Bordos, considered the greatest living videomapper. The driving force behind Videocittà is Francesco Rutelli, the former Rome mayor and current president of ANICA, Italy’s national association of film and audiovisual industry. For details see www.videocitta.com.

Videocittà takes place in 40 venues across Rome.

Grand Finale by Hofesh Shechter on 17-19 Oct for Romaeuropa Festival.

DANCE MILAN

Rome

TEATRO aLLA SCALA

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 19 sept-25 oct

L’HISTOIRE DU MANON 17 OCT-2 NOV

Svetlana Zakharova and Roberto Bolle dance in La Scala’s production of L’historie du Manon on 17, 19 and 24 Oct. The choreography is by Kenneth MacMillan and dates back to his time in the 1970s as the artistic direct at the Royal Ballet. Although he was inspired by Massenet’s music he did not use the music from the opera but from several of Massenet’s other works, such as Cendrillon, Don Chiciotte and Cleopatre, as well pieces by other composers. In 2011 the music was rearranged and re-orchestrated by Martin Yates. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

As usual the festival is a feast for lovers of contemporary dance and there is much here from choreographers and dancers that you won’t have seen elsewhere in Italy. The need for culture to break down the political walls and boundaries that are going up all over the world is the underlying theme that runs through all the works in the festival this year. 4-5 Oct. Eingeweide created by Marco Donnarumma and Margherita Pevere, explores the possibilities when robot and human merge and struggle to form a new hybrid identity. Mattatoio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4. From 1321 Oct there is an explosion of dance events. 13-14 Oct. Red. A Documentary Performance by Wen Hui Beijing and the Living Dance Studio Beijing. The work

focuses on memory and takes as its starting point the China of Mao in the 1970s with the ballet Red Detachment of Women. Teatro Vascello. 17-19 Oct. Grand Finale by the Hofesh Shechter Company. Death stalks Shechter’s work, which imagines a world in free-fall at the end of time, and although it is bleak (the Financial Times has called it his bleakest work to date) there is also a vein of optimism. Teatro Olimpico. 18 Oct. S.solo by Sara Sguotti. The young choreographer, who was the DNAppunti winner in 2017, dances out her real life portrait of pleasure and freedom. La Pelanda, Mattatoio. 18 Oct. The Dry Piece | XL Edition by Keren Levi. An investigation into the perceptions of the female body and the relationship between beauty and identity in women. Mattatoio. 19 Oct. Opus by Cristos Papadopoulos (no location given). The Greek choreographer explores the relationship between music and vision to the music of JS Bach’s The Art of Fugue. 20 Oct. 43 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Kokoro by Luna Cenere. Cenere, who is a member of the Virgilio Siene dance company, explores the heart of things and questions our perceptions of reality, putting her own body centre stage. Mattatoio. 20 Oct. Blanks by Ingrid Berger Myhre. This solo, danced by Myhre, looks at the way the spectator’s perception of what is happening on stage can project and change the meaning of the event itself. Mattatoio. 20-21 Oct. Excelsior by Alvo Lombardo and Chiasma. Lombardo uses the Gran Ballo Excelsior, which premiered at la Scala in 1881, to look at modern society through the eyes of the past. Teatro Vascello. 21 Oct. DNAppunti by young Italian choreographers. The selection of the winner of the 2018 DNAppunti project for young Italian choeographers. Mattatoio. 21 Oct. Ohne Nix by Dominik Grünbühel and Luke Baio. The two dancers accompany spectators through a mausoleum of the future reflecting on the artistic process, on its successes and failures. For more details about this exciting dance programme see www.romaeuropa.net.

TEATRO OLIMPICO BALLETTO DEL SUD LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA 5-7 OCT

This is Fredy Franzutti’s modern interpretation of the Sleeping Beauty fairytale, with Tchaikovsky’s music but relocated to southern Italy. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

TURIN TORINODANZA 10 SEPT- 1 DEC

The theme of this year’s contemporary dance festival in Turin is based on Leonard Cohen’s unforgettable song Dance me to the end of love. Torinodanza explores the overlapping disciplines of dance, music, theatre, image and video, all now coalescing in contemporary dance. 6-5 Oct. La Vrille du chat, choreography by Cruz Isael Mata. The work copies animated cartoon techniques, manipulating space and time.

Teatro Astra. 12-13 Oct. Vertigine #1 is the result of a year-long residency in the mountains between Chambery and Turin. French and Italian artists from various generations and countries develop themes on the mountains and the communities of Val di Susa and La Val Chisone. Fonderie Limone Moncalieri. 16 Oct. Focus@ Mat Ek. Pompea Santoro and her company dance work by Mat Ek. Teatro Astra. 18-19 Oct. Tango Glaciale Reloaded. The reworking of the original Mario Martone work from 1982. Fonderie Limone Moncalieri. 2021 Oct. Néant by and with Dave StPierre. This is the Italian premiere of the Canadian work by St-Pierre, a cross between dance, theatre and performance, part humour, part tragedy, part reason, part folly. 25-26 Oct. Du Desir D’Horizons. The choreography has developed out of a series of workshops in refugee camps in Burundi and Burkina Faso. Choreography by Salia Sanou from Burkina Faso. Fonderie Limone Moncalieri. 30 Nov-1 Dec. Requiem Pour L by Alain Platel. Inspired by Mozart’s Requiem. Fonderie Limone Moncalieri. For full details see www.torinodanzafestival.it. Du Desir d’Horizons. Desire for Horizons on 25-26 Oct at Torinodanza.

44 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Francesco Meli in the part of Ernani in Verdi’s opera at New York’s Met in 2015.

LA FINTA GIARDINIERA BY MOZART 29 sept-25 oct

opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ERNANI BY VERDI 29 sept-25 oct

This is a difficult Verdi opera for conductor and singers alike and although it is not often performed some of its music is said to herald later Verdi operas, such as Rigoletto, Il Trovatore, Un Ballo in Maschera. Adam Fischer conducts Francesco Meli in the part of Ernani, Ailyn Peres as Elvira and Simon Piazzola as Don Carlo and Ildar Abdrazakov as Don Ruy (see Attila right). Director Sven-Eric Bechtolf, who is better known for his Wagner productions, is now taking on his second Verdi work. Bechtolf works almost exclusively with the Vienna and Zurich opera houses and the Salzburg festival but his direction of the La Scala’s academy students last September for their annual production led to what critics called a “stunning” fairy-tale interpretation of Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel. Bechtolf has a close connection with La Scala’s present director Alexander Pereira through their work together at the Salzburg festival. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

La Scala orchestra will tackle its first Mozart opera on period baroque instruments as part of its project dedicated to the interpretation of 18th-century works on instruments of the time. Diego Fasolis conducts this Glyndebourne festival staging by Frederic Wake-Walker which will also be broadcast live on RAI Radio 3 on 8 Oct and RAI 5 TV on 11 Oct. Mozart’s La Finta Giardiniera has only been performed once in Milan, in 1970 at La Piccola Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ELEKTRA BY STRAUSS 4-29 Nov

Elektra will be conducted by Christoph von Dohnányi who at 88 returns to conduct an opera at La Scala for the first since 1977. He will also be conducting Mozart’s Idomeneo at La Scala in May next year. Patrice Chereau’s staging of Elektra is a coproduction with Aix en Provence festival, the Met in New York, Unter Den Linden Berlin, as well as Barcelona and Helsinki opera houses. This was one of the last works produced by Chereau before he died in 2013. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ATTILA BY VERDI 7 Dec 11 Dec-8 Jan

Verdi’s opera Attila opens the new La Scala season on 7 Dec with Riccardo Chailly conducting a new production by David Livermore. Ildar Abdrazakov sings the role of Attila and Saioa Hermandez as Odabella.

Abdrazakov has sung the role many times and has recently performed at La Scala in Ernani (see left) but Hermandez is new to the role and to La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

rome Teatro dell’0pera di roma DIE ZAUberflote BY MOZART 9-17 oct

Mozart’s opera is conducted by Henrik Nánási and directed by Barrie Kosky and Suzanne Andrade. This was one of the many new productions that Nánási conducted while he was the general music director of the Komische Oper Berlin for five years from 2012-2017. During that period the opera house won both the Opera House of the Year 2103 award and the Opera Company of the Year 2015. He was one of the alternating conductors of La Boheme at the Teatro dell’Opera in June this year.

LE NOZZE DI FIGARO my mozart 30 oct-11 nov

Morzart’s Marriage of Figaro ends the season at Teatro dell’Opera, with a new production by Graham Vick, conducted by Stefano Montanari. Vick first produced this opera at Glyndebourne in 2000 (and it has since been listed as one of the top ten Glyndebourne productions) so it will be interesting to see what new ideas he has for it nearly two decades later. www.operaroma.it. 45 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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The Cordelia Dream by Marina Carr (pictured) opens Trend Festival 2018.

THEATRE SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 27 June-14 Oct

Rome’s Shakespearean festival at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre celebrates its 15th anniversary and this year for the first time comes under the umbrella of the city’s Teatro di Roma network. The four-month festival in Villa Borghese is once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti and includes an English-language performance. The season continues with La Tempesta (The Tempest) directed by Daniele Salvo (21 Sept-7 Oct) and concludes with The Merchant of Venice, an original language version by the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company, directed by Chris Pickles (10-14 Oct). Rome’s Globe Theatre is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs. The festival attracts around 65,000 spectators each year, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, www. globetheatreroma.com.

THE PRISONER BY PETER BROOK 11-20 Oct

Romaeuropa Festival presents the Italian premiere of The Prisoner,

the latest creation by celebrated British playwright Peter Brook, at Teatro Vittoria in Rome’s Testaccio district. The play, which revolves around a man sitting alone in front of a giant prison in the prison, examines the concept of redemption and asks what justice means in a world “where prisoners and guards face each other with the same questions.” The production is in English with Italian surtitles. For details see Romaeuropa website, www. romaeuropa.net. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065740170.

We publish the programme that was available at the time of going to press, subject to change. The programme begins with The Cordelia Dream by Marina Carr (18 Oct), Jordan by Anna Reynolds and Moira Buffini (20-21 Oct), My Brilliant Divorce by Geraldine Aron (24-27 Oct), Ivan & The Dogs by Hattie Naylor (29 Oct-1 Nov), BU21 by Stuart Slade (2-4 Nov), En Attendant Beckett by Glauco Mauri and Roberto Sturno (7-11 Nov), Wasted by Kate Tempest (13-15 Nov), All the Things I Lied About by Katie Bonna (16-18 Nov), Killology by Gary Owen (2024 Nov), A Behanding in Spokane by Martin McDonagh (26-28 Nov), Harrogate by Al Smith (30 Nov-3 Dec), Growth by Luke Norris (5-8 Dec), Shining City by Conor McPherson (10-12 Dec), Yellow Moon by David Greig (1415 Dec), Conservatory by Michael West (16 Dec), The Prudes by Anthony Neilson (17-19 Dec), and Lungs by Duncan Macmillan (2022 Dec). Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it. Gigi Proietti is once again artistic director of Rome’s Shakespearean festival.

TREND

18 Oct-22 Dec

The 17th edition of Trend: New frontiers of the British scene takes place at Teatro Belli in Trastevere, with the support of the capital and the British Council. The drama festival provides a bridge between established and emerging British and Irish talent, and the programme contains awardwinning works from noted playwrights as well as recent plays by younger authors. Translated from their original language into Italian, the plays in the theatre festival raise awareness of contemporary British and Irish theatre among a new audience. 47 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

design@menexa.it

Rome will be filled again with contemporary art romeartweek.com | October 22th - 27th 2018

Rome Art Week is an innovative project that will involve the whole city of Rome through free events in art galleries and open studios of professional artists. The public will be able to find all the info through the site romeartweek.com with the full calendar of the events taking place during the week and with the interactive map. ALL EVENTS ARE FREE OF CHARGE PATRONAGES

ROMA

SUPPORTERS

PARTNERS

MEDIA PARTNERS

48 | Oct 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

IDEATION

The Russian Culture Festival includes a conference on Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn.

ACADEMIES INSTITUTE OF RUSSIAN CULTURE 6-27 Oct

Rome’s Institute of Russian Culture organises the city’s first Russian Culture Festival, in collaboration with publishing houses, authors, actors and university professors involved in diffusing Russian culture. The festival programme includes meetings with contemporary Russian authors such as Zachar Prilepin, a theatrical production inspired by Gogol’s The Overcoat, a a talk on post-Soviet writers, a presentation on the classic Journey from Petersburg to Moscow by

The Spanish Academy Rome presents Processi 145, an exhibition of projects and works created by the academy’s Spanish, Italian and Latin American artists during

their residency in the 2017/2018 season. This year’s 23 resident artists, winners of the annual competition overseen by Spain’s foreign ministry, were tasked with creating a project dedicated to Italy and in particular to Rome, from classical to contemporary. The exhibition also offers the opportunity to visit the Real Academia de España, which is normally closed to the public and which currently celebrates its 145th year in Rome. Real Academia de España en Roma, Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, www.accademiaspagna.org.

over 150 years of experience, the German School of Rome offers future-oriented education, from kindergarten to the high school diploma, where the students learn more than five languages and end their school career with two diplomas, the German Abitur

and the Italian maturità. During the Open Day parents will have the opportunity to meet teachers while there will be a range of fun activities on offer for children. Scuola Germanica Roma, Via Aurelia Antica 397-403, tel. 066638776, www.dsrom.de.

Alexandr Radiščev, a conference on Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn on the centenary of his birth, an ItalianRussian literary translation workshop focusing on prose and poetry, and free introductory lessons in the Russian language. For details see website. Istituto di Cultura e Lingua Russa, Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137, www. italia-russia.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY IN ROME 20 June-16 Oct

SCHOOLS GERMAN SCHOOL OF ROME OPEN DAY 20 OCT The German School of Rome, Deutsche Schule Rom, holds its Open Day on Saturday 20 October from 11.00 to 17.00. With

49 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome. All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 50 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC THEATR CINEMA VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Barberini, Piazza 0686391361

Barberini

24-26,

tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiTeatro stina.it Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. www.teatrovascello.it 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

WANTED junior inROME Students from the art department at St George’s British International School, Rome, have scooped top prizes in recent art competitions. Sasha (Oleksandra) Iarmak (age 13) in Year 9 won the COBIS International Art Prize, coming first place in the upper age category of the 2018 competition. She was selected from a field of over 600 entries from 100 schools worldwide. Sasha is a member of St George’s ‘A Team’ – a Key Stage 3 art club that meets after school every Wednesday to develop and produce projects beyond normal classwork – and also to enter international art competitions. Ellis Schilling (age 16) in Year 11 was awarded first prize in the 2018 Vivi Veio Art Competition, open to all public, private and international schools in Rome. Her winning painting of Via Margutta (top right) formed part of her AS level Art coursework, a challenging exam which she sat a year earlier than usual. Valeria Miraglia (age 14) in Year 9 won second prize in the same competition for her drawing entitled Etruscan Fragments (bottom right). The judges included noted art critic Giorgio Palumbi.

52 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The head of the art department at St George’s senior school is Greg Morgan. St George’s British International School, Rome, (senior school), Via Cassia km16, La Storta, tel. 063086001, www.stgeorge. school.it.

JUNIOR Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com. 53 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

54 | Oct 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

FETTINE PANATE CON CIPOLLA ROSSA E SALVIA

By Kate Zagorski

Usually served hot, fettine panate are thin slices of beef which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried until golden. This recipe turns them into almost a kind of salad by cutting them into strips and mixing them with red onion, fresh sage leaves and a zing of vinegar, all gently cooked together to encourage the flavours to blend. Easy to make in advance and store in the fridge, they benefit hugely from a rest before eating so this recipe is a brilliant addition to buffets or picnics. When buying the beef look for thin slices, the best are called 'girello' in Italian. If they are a little thick you can tenderise them by hitting them with a meat hammer, rolling pin or even the bottom of a tumbler or glass. The process of coating the slices can be messy but taking the time to make sure they have a good covering of breadcrumbs will help to give the finished dish a bit of bite. For another variation, the fried fettine panate can also be left whole, topped with a little tomato passata and a slice of mozzarella (or mozzarella and mushrooms) and baked in the oven at 180Â°C for a few minutes until the mozzarella has melted before serving them hot as a second course.

Ingredients for 4 people 250g fresh tonnar 4 thin slices of beef (approx 500g) Flour 4 eggs, beaten Fine breadcrumbs 1 lt vegetable oil, for frying 3 red onions, roughly slicedelli

70g pecorino romano, finely grated 25 fresh sage leaves Extra virgin olive oil Half a glass of white wine vinegar Salt Pepper

Prepare the ingredients for the coating; put a generous amount of flour in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Crack the eggs into a separate bowl and beat well with a fork or hand whisk. Pour breadcrumbs into a wide dish, tray or board. Take the first slice of beef and coat it well in flour then dip it on both sides first in the egg and then in the breadcrumbs. Push the meat into the breadcrumbs with your fingers to ensure it is well-covered. Set aside and repeat the process with the remaining slices. Heat the vegetable oil in a wide saucepan or large frying pan until it is boiling. Test by sticking a wooden toothpick into the oil, if small bubbles form around the toothpick the oil is ready. Carefully place the beef slices into the oil (you may have to do this one or two pieces at a time depending on the size of your pan) and fry for about 2 minutes, turning over once, until they are golden and crunchy. Set the slices aside on a tray covered with kitchen paper to drain, sprinkle with salt and leave to cool. Once the slices have cooled down, use scissors to cut them into strips about 2cm x 5cm. In a large frying pan heat a good splash of olive oil and add the chopped red onion. Cook for a couple of minutes until it is just starting to soften then add the sage leaves, tearing any large ones in half. Cook for a minute and then add the beef strips and heat through. Add the vinegar and cook everything together for another minute to combine the flavours. Tip into a bowl and leave to cool down, then cover and place in the refrigerator until serving.

Rome’s reputation reputation as an important toto grow with new murals by important Italian and Rome's importantstreet streetart artcapital capitalcontinues continues grow with new murals by important Italian international street artists appearing all theall time. the works located in the suburbs, often far often from the and international street artists appearing the Most time.of Most of the are works are located in the suburbs, far centre. is where Rome’s main streetmain art projects and projects murals. and murals. from theHere centre. Hereto is find where to find Rome’s street art Esquilino Esquilino Murals by by Alice Murals Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza MafredoFanti Fanti47. 47. Piazza Manfredo Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo The Abusivo Gestitodai daiRom), Rom), aa project Gestito project by byFrench French street artist is located in a street artist SethSeth is located in a former former soap on factory on Via Antonio soap factory Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite opposite Ostiense's Ostiense’s landmark Avoga-dro, Gasometro. For details see landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove e dell’Altrove Museo dell’Altro di diMetropoliz Metropoliz This former meat meatfactory factory This former in thein the outskirts of Rome now a outskirts of Rome is nowisa street street art museum well home as being art museum as well as as being to home to squatting some 200 squatting some 200 migrants. The migrants. The Museo dell’Altro di e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altrove or MAAM, Metropoliz, di or Metropoliz, MAAM, is only open ison Saturdays, only open on Saturdays, and features the work and features the artists work including of more of more than 300 than 300 artists including Edoardo Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page MAAM Facebook page for details. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Porto Fluviale. Fluviale. Fish’n’Kids AgostinoIacurci. Iacurci.Via Via Fish’n'Kids bybyAgostino del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. WallofofFame FamebybyJBJBRock. Rock.Via Viadei dei Wall Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ostiense Ozmo. underpass, Ostiense Shelley by Ozmo. underpass, Via Ostiense. Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato Blu, Via Palazzo occupato by Blu, by Via Ostiense. Ostiense. Pigneto Pigneto to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Tributes Tributes Pier Paolo Pasolini71.by Maupal, Mr.to Klevra and Omino Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. 56 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S. Basilio SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works works on on SanBa the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio Rebibbia. TheRebibbia. regenerasuburb ofnear S. Basilio near tion regenera-tion project includesproject works by Italian The includes artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu works by Italian artists Agostino alongsideHitnes Spain's and Liqen. Maiolati, Iacurci, BluViaalongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Via Treia. Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Totti Giovanni Apuliamural cornerby of Via Farsalo. Totti Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. Alice Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro Pietro S. UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Uma di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Pietro, di Monte Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Pavoni. Ludovico Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Acqua Bullicante. Hostia byVia Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. Herakut.Iacurci. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Via Muzio Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m Themurals Big City Life scheme features tall by 22 Italian and interna14-m street tall artists murals by 22MrItalian tional including Klevra, and Gaia interna-tional street artists Seth, and Jerico. The idea was to including the Mr area's Klevra, Seth, and transform blocks of Gaia flats into Jerico. The art ideamuseum. was to transform an open-air Via Tor the area’s blocks of ﬂats into openMarancia. For full details see an website, air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. For full details see website, www. bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

57 | Oct 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Pizzarium, Via della Meloria 43, tel. 0639745416 Sforno, Via Statilio Ottato 110, tel. 0671546118 La Gatta Mangiona, Via Ozanam 21, tel. 065346702 Supplizio, Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143, tel. 0689871920

58 | Oct 2018 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Indirizzi

Sisini, Piazza Re di Roma 20, tel. 0670491409

Best supplì in Rome Supplì have long been considered a staple of Roman cuisine. Legend has it that they were invented in the early 19th century, initially served as a poor man’s dish in osterie. Like many other traditional Roman dishes, it was a way to recycle leftovers. In the original recipe chicken offal was used to make a ragù which was then mixed with rice and deep-fried in boiling oil. Later, partly for taste reasons but mainly due to better socio-economic conditions, the chicken offal was replaced by minced meat. Mozzarella was added much later, around the mid-20th century, giving rise to supplì al telefono – so called because the melted cheese forms what looks like a telephone cable joining the two halves when the supplì is broken in two. Nowadays supplì are usually eaten as a starter and is a standard item on the menu of every rotisserie and pizzeria in Rome. APPIO LATINO Sisini – La casa del Supplì Sisini is an institution for anyone who spends any time in the Appio Latino district – an overflowing pizzeria/rotisserie serving a constant stream of pizzas by the slice, calzoni and first and second courses for those on the go. The supplì – soft and aromatic with a light, non-greasy coating – is the house speciality. The rice comes in plenty of ragù with a real mozzarella heart. Make sure it has come straight out of the fryer though. There’s another branch – known to Romans as “Venanzio” – on Via S. Francesco a Ripa 137 in Trastevere. CIPRO Pizzarium Next to the Cipro metro station is this small pizzeria which serves by the slice, run by Gabriele Bonci – pizza chef, gourmet and maker of one of the finest pizzas anywhere in Rome. There’s also a constant supply of supplì being produced and nearly always a long queue at the counter waiting for the next batch to be brought out. Possibly our only gripe is the excessive amount of Parmesan cheese in the ragù. CINECITTÀ Sforno A stone’s throw from Cinecittà, this pizzeria is famous up and down the country because its Neapolitan pizza has been reviewed by every guidebook and magazine imaginable. But Sforno should get the credit it deserves for its supplì as well as the pizza. You can order a classic supplì with ragù but this is possibly the best place in Rome to go

for gourmet varieties. Make sure you try their Frascati e porchetta (white wine and roast pork) supplì and their alla gricia (cheese and bacon) supplì. They might cost a bit more but you won’t regret a cent of it. MONTEVERDE Gatta Mangiona In the heart of Monteverde is this restaurant serving gourmet supplì. Besides their light, tasty, sweet-smelling traditional supplì with ragù and mozzarella, you can also find a number of more refined variants. Supplì with baby plum tomato sauce, supplì with gorgonzola cream and herrings and – last but not least – supplì with saffron and wild asparagus. This place is highly recommended if you want to try something a bit different, just be prepared to spend a bit more. HISTORIC CENTRE Supplizio Slap bang in the middle of the historic centre on Via dei Banchi Vecchi is this street food heaven. Traditional nosh from Rome and beyond rules here but the supplì are the real stars of the show. Served in a welcoming, rustic dining room with masonry walls, 1930s lamps and terracotta flooring, they come in bianco (white) and rosso (red) versions. You can also order smoked potato croquettes or fried custard with pecorino cheese, sugar and cinnamon (both €2 a pop), as well as various gourmet supplì, such as butter and anchovies, carbonara or cheese and pepper. All served in what looks like a cardboard egg box.

www.puntarellarossa.it

59 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Accommodation vacant in town

Lessons

MANZONI AREA Garden apartment renting, six months minimum at €800 a month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com.

FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email. Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

VIGNA CLARA - GIOCHI DELFICI 25 sqm studio apartment. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, completely furnished. €550 monthly, all included. Please call 3467882036.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI-MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English, Spanish, German speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.0014.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it.

CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 17 Oct 14 Nov PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 1 Nov 3 Dec

Poetry IMMIGRANTS Immigrants, what do we do? Poor indù. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape. It is set on a 2.5 acre area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees. It is enriched by an eating area with a brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000 Mail pierdavid@ tiscali.it.

LOOK FOR MORE CLASSIFIED ADS ON WWW.WANTEDINROME.COM Free Classified Advertisements. All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted v ia o ur website a t www.wantedinrome.com. Space p ermitting free classified advertisements p laced o n our website w ill be downloaded a nd published i n the magazine, but o nly if t hey include contact d etails. J obs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in o ur office but m ust be p laced d irectly o n our website www.wantedinrome.com.

WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

60 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

61 | Oct 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836924 Anglo America Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S.Lyigi dei Francesi, 23, tel.0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 8.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piaza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) 62 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Internatuinal Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel, 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel.0642014554. Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18-00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel, 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Chirch Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrwe’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Church Catholic),(Roman Catholic), St Patrick's Via Boncompagni 31,Boncompagni tel. 068881827, Via 31, tel. 0688818727, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org www.stpatricksamericanrome.org. Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vi Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 8.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S.Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel.064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di ROma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victisms of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distredded) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 63 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR

SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR

VINCENZO BELLINI

STORIES • VISIONS • SOUNDS FROM 19.9 TO 25.11

la sonnambula

GIORGIO BARBERIO CORSETTI

26 LOCATIONS IN ROME

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

science - media - music - visual art

music

NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI

FRANK ZAPPA ACCADEMIA TEATRO ALLA SCALA • PETER RUNDEL

DIGITALIVE

CONDUCTOR

PIETRO RIZZO DIRECTOR

GIUSEPPE VERDI

Multimedia concerts and performances from 4.10 to 7.10 • MATTATOIO

la traviata

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton

FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH 4 TEATRO COSTANZI

SOFIA COPPOLA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR

FABIO CHERSTICH

figaro!

Opera Camion

The Yellow Shark • 10.10 AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA

theatre • show in English national premiere

11 - 20.10 • TEATRO VITTORIA

PETER BROOK THE PRISONER

dance national premiere

theatre • show in English

SET, COSTUME AND VIDEO DESIGN

GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO “FABBRICA” YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM AND YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

HOFESH SHECHTER COMPANY Grand Finale • from 17.10 to 19.10 TEATRO OLIMPICO

Give us a call at +39 06 45553050 or write an email to promozione@romaeuropa.net to receive an instant 25% off on all shows.

MOTUS LA MAMA PANORAMA • from 31.10 to 3.11 TEATRO VASCELLO