Issue 3 OCTOBER ‘2016
PORK CHEEKS with
red wine + beer
know thy food & wine. Take a Free Copy
[ HOW TO ]
cured duck breast by rocksalt pg 46
pg 38
A quick guide to pairing wine Pair your wine at a glance
p60
A
photographer's
perspect ive
SRI LANka
#Contents
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WANTED MAGAZINE
know thy food and wine.
" food for d y is not enough th e b o
th e re must b e f o o d fo r th e s o u l
15. Cookbook time
2016 is shaping up to be an especially exciting year for cookbooks.
17. Seasonal ingredients
This issue’s champs: olives, radishes and pomegranates.
18. The chef kings
Three of Malta’s most distinctive chefs bring you their dishes using pomegranates.
27. Food inspiration
68. Is biodynamic wine a myth or reality?
A profile on the fascinating Loire region winegrower and biodynamic wine movement pioneer, Nicolas Joly.
71. Singing Riesling
Complement those spicy dishes with a refreshing Riesling.
73. The secrets to Syrah
Loads of recipes incorporating spice and all things nice.
Whether they’re warm or cool climate Syrahs, they may be the perfect match.
60. Wine pairing chart
76. Falling on autumn
Get an approximate wine-food pairing at a glance with our easy-touse chart.
62. Talking Trivento A look at one of Mendoza, Argentina's most prized vineyards.
64. All in a winemaker’s name
Matthew Delicata, Emmanuel Delicata Winery’s 4th generation family winemaker tells us like it is.
66. Hugel’s pursuit
Famille Hugel’s pursuit to reveal the unique character of a dry, mineral Riesling. Find us on Facebook: wantedfoodmagazine
GET READY >>
Josette Vella Schembri at LOFT welcomes in Autumn in the best way possible: through the dinner table.
83. A photographer’s perspective Photographer Tonio Lombardi brings us fantastic images of his trip to Sri Lanka.
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Cured duck breast Patron Chef Steve De Domenico's duck breast cure.
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Chutney with that curry? Ann Urpani's three chutneys.
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Michael Sultana's pork cheeks Pork cheeks with red wine & beer.
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Red mullet risotto Ann Urpani's delicious red mullet and prawn risotto
Sea bass al sale Tarragon chef's version with pomegranate caviar.
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You sweet thang Really good panna cotta Panna cotta using this season's pomegranate by Ann Urpani
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Is biodynamic wine-growing a myth or reality ?
Fresh fish dish Ann Urpani's red snapper with lemon grass and coriander.
A profile on biodynamic wine movement pioneer, Nicolas Joly.
Rose petal crème brûlée Andrew Chubb's innovative crème brûlée evolution.
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Slow roasted pork belly Hotel Juliani / Zest Restaurant Chef Noel Azzopardi's slow roasted pork belly.
I heart larb gai Andrew Chubb's Thai chicken salad.
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A photographer's perspective Photographer Tonio Lombardi's fantastic shots in Sri Lanka.
#Editor letter As we do, Wanted brings you weird, wild and wonderful this season. This issue’s spice and all things nice theme is a great excuse to offer readers loads of recipes full of explosive flavours. Further to that, we focus on the lovely pomegranate, bringing you creative ways to use it in savoury dishes and desserts. Our wine section is growing exponentially (we’re not complaining) and covers some fantastic vineyards, the lovely Argentinean Trivento, an introduction to biodynamic wines, a nifty pairing chart, and more. The amazing autumn table settings by Josette Vella Schembri are sure to inspire you to get going on the decorating. Here’s to bon appétiting our way into autumn…
Contributors: We couldn't do it alone
Ann Urpani Home Cook
Wanted Team Publishers Chris Psaila Lisa Borain
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Andrew Chubb Home Cook
Steve De Domenico Chef Patron, Rocksalt
Editor Lisa Borain
Designer Jonathan Bajada
Art Director Chris Psaila
Photography Alan Carville Tonio Lombardi Geoffrey Zarb Adami
Michael Sultana Executive Chef, Tarragon Restaurant
For advertising booking contact us on:
Ramon Muscat
Executive Chef, The Radisson Blu Resort
info@wantedfoodmagazine.com
Noel Azzopardi
Executive Chef, Hotel Juliani Zest Restaurant
Tonio Lombardi Photographer
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. © 2016
Find all Wanted recipes at wantedfoodmagazine.com Visit our Facebook page for regular updates: facebook.com/wantedfoodmagazine
#Competition
Win With
WHISKY ON THE ROCKS ROCKS
Win these tré's cool Täljsten’s Original Whisky Stones that lower the temperature of your drink from 20°C to 10°C without diluting it, courtesy of Dical House. Enter to win at: www.wantedfoodmagazine.com/win
POLS POTTEN AFRESH BOWLS
Win these beautifully designed Pols Potten Afresh large set of 4 bowls, courtesy of LOFT. Enter to win at: www.wantedfoodmagazine.com/win
A BOX OF ORGANIC VEGGIES
Get the chance to win a box of fresh, organic vegetables from InCampagna. Enter to win at: www.wantedfoodmagazine.com/win
The lucky and lovely winners of last issue’s competition are: Massimo Abela: The Domaine de La Baume Merlot magnum, courtesy of P. Cutajar & Co.
Alfred Bezzina: A €100 discount off the Bomann KSW 344 wine cooler with awesome features, courtesy of A&A Mizzi.
your
luxury moment.
www.delicata.com
LIVE LIFE THE GRAND WAY WITH MALTA’S GRAND WINE. GRAND VIN DE HAUTEVILLE BY MALTA’S FOREMOST WINERY.
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Free tea
If you’re into good tea, go on over to La Coccinella on November 2nd to get a free cup of Teapigs English breakfast tea. The reason for the 50 free cups of tea? A celebration of Teapigs’ 10th anniversary. The brand’s ethos is purity and simplicity: No airs. no graces. Just fine tea. Find Coccinella on High Street, St. Julians. facebook.com/LaCoccinellaMalta
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Asian beer is here!
If you’re a beer lover, you’re in luck. The Asia Food Store on Nazju Ellul Street in Gzira is now stocking a lovely range of Asian beers. Beer in Asia began when beer was produced in Mesopotamia (ancient Iraq) circa 6,000 years ago. Its current popularity was largely due to the introduction by Europeans circa 19th century, with modern breweries established in British India, Indonesia, China and Japan. Now, beer brewery is a seriously growing industry in Asia, with it being the largest beer-producing region in the world since 2009. Find it at The Asia Food Store. Facebook: Asia Food Store
Trendy Concepts Embrace the uniqueness of Camilleri Catering with their original and trendy concepts for any event (staff parties, private events, summer BBQs… the options are endless). info@camillericatering. com or tel 2147 2255.
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Le Creuset lover?
If you’re a Le Creuset lover (why wouldn’t you be?), you’re going to freak out over the Vida Brazil Collection 2016. Inspired by Brazil’s exuberant colours and bold cuisine, the range includes new grills, casseroles and serving dishes. Latin up to mix and match their colourful cookware to reflect your own style. Le Creuset at Gala Centre, Gzira, gala.com.mt
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Don’t forget Italy
Autumn is the best time of year to experience Italy’s host of food festivals. Explore local culture and taste some fantastic regional specialities. www.italyfoodandwinetours.com
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The Medina by Infinitely Xara
We all know the lovely Medina Restaurant; the charming original Norman house on Holy Cross Street in Mdina, with it’s gorgeous courtyard, award-winning food, and charismatic atmosphere. Infinitely Xara has now added The Medina Restaurant to their impressive portfolio. Justin Zammit Tabona, Managing Director at Infinitely Xara: “The Medina Restaurant was one of my first ever gastronomic experiences some odd 40 years ago, belonging to the Pullicino family and run by my great uncle Michael Otto Pullicino. Retracing that nostalgia, both in flavour and atmosphere, is an absolute honour. We are only too pleased as a family to have been able to extend as well as relive all the sentiment this charming restaurant has to offer, and I am delighted for it to now form part of the Infinitely Xara brand.” medinarestaurantmalta.com
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It’s coming!
The creative and elegant Zest Outside Catering has recently launched their new set menu, buffet and cocktail party packages for Christmas 2016. Throw a party they’ll still be talking about in the New Year. View packages at zestflavours.com.
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Cookbook time.
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2016 is shaping up to be to be an especially exciting year for cookbooks, appealing to budding restaurant historians, technique-obsessed chefs, pop culture enthusiasts, and even novice cooks. Start making room on those bookshelves… or build another one. 02
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01. Food for All Seasons by Oliver Rowe A story of seasonal food throughout the year, this touching and informative culinary journey explores the way our lives and our food are intertwined. 02. 26 Grains by Alex Hely-Hutchinson Taking inspiration from Nordic cooking and the Danish ethos of hygge, Alex HelyHutchinson creates delicious, simple dishes which are both satisfying and healthy.
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03. Simple: Effortless Food, Big Flavours by Diana Henry Packed with ideas for meals that can be easily rustled up from what you have in the fridge or can find easily, despite the book’s name, each recipe uses unique flavour combinations. 04. Thug Kitchen 101: Fast as F*ck by Thug Kitchen With no-fuss recipes for delicious quick dishes such as sweet potato tacos and
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no-bake cookies, this book does exactly what it says on the cover. 05. Gather by Gill Meller River Cottage chef Gill Meller has mastered the art of cooking seasonally, and gently guides the reader through simple recipes, with no need for obscure ingredients or complicated cooking. 06. Toast Hash Roast Mash: Real Food for Every Time of Day by Dan Doherty Inspired by the breakfast and
brunch Dan Doherty’s restaurant is famous for, this book contains ideas for all-day eating and simple fare. The best part is, it even has a chapter dedicated to curing your hangover. Perfect. 07. The Palomar Cookbook Named after the awardwinning restaurant in Soho, here you’ll find recipes originating from Southern Spain and Northern Africa.
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Seasonal
H
RADIS THE
‘CHAMPS’ the
three seasonal stars that you 're about to see in abundance. THE POM
E
A AN TE GR
a great source of
TH EO
vitamin C, b6 + magnesium
E V I L
they're classified as a super fruit. they're a rich source of oils, minerals and vitamins A , E, K + B. 17
Fine Food
THE
{CHEF KINGS}
Three of Malta’s most celebrated chefs bring you their ideas for dishes using this season’s POMEGRANATE. Photography: Alan Carville
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Noel Azzopardi Executive Chef, Hotel Juliani / Zest Restaurant
Slow roasted pork belly with pomegranate salad & pork rillette Serves: 2 Chef: Noel Azzopardi, Executive Chef, Hotel Juliani/Zest 300g pork belly 100g pork trimmings 6 cherry tomatoes seeds of 1 medium pomegranate mixed fresh herbs - chervil, coriander, red sorrel, chopped
20g quinoa and puffed rice handful fresh oregano handful fresh thyme 1 tsp fresh coriander, finely chopped 1 tbsp teriyaki sauce sugar, salt & pepper Method for the pork belly Marinate the pork belly for six hours in the oregano, thyme, salt and pepper. Bake in the oven for 8 hours at 140C until the crackling becomes crispy. For the pork rillette with puffed rice and quinoa: Braise the pork trimmings in a chicken stock until the meat becomes tender and easily separates with a fork. Leave to cool. Add the teriyaki and coriander, and mix well. Cook the rice and quinoa separately, and dry for two hours by baking at 60C. Fry together with a dash of oil until crispy.
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Fine Food For the pomegranate syrup:
For the pomegranate salad:
Bring the pomegranate seeds and equal parts water and sugar to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Strain and blend well.
Combine the pomegranate seeds with mixed fresh herbs.
For the confit cherry tomatoes: Peel the cherry tomatoes and marinate them in extra virgin olive oil with a dash of salt and sugar. Set aside.
To plate all, divide equally, and plate the pork belly, pork rillette dusted with puffed rice and quinoa, and pomegranate salad. Finish with pomegranate syrup and cherry tomatoes.
Wine recommendation M. Chapoutier Belleruche CĂ´tes du RhĂ´ne from P. Cutajar & Co. The plush, fruity Grenache is well balanced with the savoury Syrah here, which really complements the pork belly nicely.
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Fine Food
02
Ramon Muscat
Executive Chef, The Radisson Blu Resort, St Julians For the parsnip purée: 600g parsnips, roughly chopped 100ml fresh cream 2g crushed peppercorns 10g fresh thyme 5g garlic, finely chopped 5g salted butter 2g rock salt For the feves & pomegranate salsa:
Quail & wild thyme tortelloni, feves & pomegranate salsa Ingredients for the pasta dough: 400g flour 10ml olive oil 3 eggs 10g table salt For the tortellini filling: 20g onions, finely chopped 10g garlic, finely chopped 200g deboned quail, cut into small pieces
5g fresh thyme 5g orange zest 10ml olive oil 5g rock salt 5g crushed peppercorns 300ml chicken stock 50ml fresh cream 10ml dry white wine 3g rock salt 3g ground pepper
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30g peeled feves
1 whole fresh pomegranate, seeds separated 10ml lime juice 10ml olive oil 3g rock salt 3g crushed peppercorns For the red wine sauce: 300g quail bones 10g onions, roughly chopped 3g garlic, roughly chopped 100ml dry red wine 100ml brown stock 10g tomato paste Method for the pasta dough Place the flour in a bowl, and hollow out the centre to make a ‘well’. Break the eggs in the well, add salt and olive oil, and gently mix together with a fork. Gradually begin incorporating the flour by pulling from the sides. As you incorporate the flour, the dough will take shape. Once ready, leave to rest for at least three hours. For the tortellini filling: Pan-fry the onions, garlic, quail and wild thyme in olive oil. Add some orange zest to the mix, stir well and
add the white wine. Simmer by half and add the chicken stock. Leave to reduce by another half, add the fresh cream, reboil, add salt and pepper, and then leave to cool down. Once cold, blend everything and leave on the side. For the tortellini: Thinly open the dough with a rolling pin. Cut with a round cutter (10cm in diameter). Place the filling on one side of the circle, brush the sides (all round) of the pasta circle with egg wash, and cross the sides to form half a circle. Once done, brush the tips of the sides with eggwash and twist to attach both sides together. Press to form a tortellini. Once ready, place on a tray and leave to rest for 3 hours in the fridge. For the parsnip purée: Place the parsnip in a deep pan in cold water and bring to the boil. Leave to simmer until the parsnip is cooked. In a separate saucepan, place the cream, thyme sprigs and garlic cloves, and simmer gently. Once the parsnips are cooked, sieve and place in a food processor with butter. Blend thoroughly, and once done, gradually add the fresh cream mix, and blend. Season to taste and serve. For the feves & pomegranate salsa: Squash the pomegranate seeds in a bowl, peel the broad beans, and add to the pomegranate. Add the lime juice to the mix, add a touch of olive oil, and add salt and pepper to taste.
Fine Food Method for the red wine sauce: Roast the quail bones at 180C in the oven. Once brown, place the bones in a deep pan, add the onions and garlic, and mix thoroughly. Add the tomato paste and the red wine, and reduce by half. Once reduced, add the brown stock and reduce again by half. Let simmer gently for another hour. Once ready, pass through a fine sieve and leave on the side. To plate, boil the salted water and once boiling, cook the tortellini. Whilst boiling, reheat the parsnip purÊe, heat the salsa in a different pan, and reboil the sauce. Once everything is hot, leave all on a gentle heat. When the tortellini are nicely cooked, drain them. Place the purÊe on a hot plate as the base and then place the tortellini on top. Spoon some salsa on top of the tortellini, pick some herbs, and place them on top of the tortellini. Spoon the sauce around the plate, and‌ bon appetite! Wine Elena Walch Lagrein Selezione 2015 from Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Wines from the sunny vineyards of TrentinoAlto Adige in north eastern Italy are strong and full bodied with plum and wild cherry flavours.
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Fine Food
03
Michael Sultana Executive Chef, Tarragon Restaurant
Sea bass “al sale” Serves: 1 Chef: Michael Sultana, Executive Chef, Tarragon Restaurant 500g sea bass fish whole, gutted and cleaned inside (leave fish with scales) 1kg rock salt 1 egg white olive oil salt & pepper to taste salad & lemon to garnish tot Sambuca to flambé Method Put the rock salt and egg white in a mixing bowl. Mix well to make sure that the egg is evenly mixed. Place the fish on an oven dish and close the stomach well to make sure that salt doesn’t reach the stomach gash. Cover the fish well with rock salt. Bake the fish in the oven at 200C for about 25 minutes. When the fish is done, remove from the oven and leave to rest (still covered with salt) for another 10 minutes. Flambé with the Sambuca. Garnish the plate with salad and a lemon wedge. Remove the salt by putting a knife between the salt and the tray; this should come off whole. Fillet the fish, sprinkle well with seasoning, and oil according to your liking. Wine Donnafugata SurSur from S.Rausi Trading. This newly created single-variety wine, made from Grillo grapes (an indigenous grape to Sicily), is fresh and fruity, with notes of white peaches and grapefruit.
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Fine Food
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Fine Food
MALTA MEETS
JAPAN. The de Mondion restaurant reached for the Orient with the collaboration between Chef Kevin Bonello and Chef Kazunori Otowa for two-night dinners. Photography: Geoffrey Zarb Adami
Infinitely Xara’s fine dining restaurant de Mondion has been home to several gastronomic adventures, and this time embarked upon the flavours of the Orient with a unique gastronomic experience. The collaboration between Executive
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Chef Kevin Bonello and Chef Kazunori Otowa, Owner and Chef of Relais & Chateaux property Restaurant Otowa, was a match made in heaven. The combined skill and passion for fine dining cuisine was the result of a masterpiece of classic French fine dining cuisine,
using local produce with an Asian twist. The deeply inspiring sixcourse menu included an interesting choice of local ingredients injected with Japanese flare that were harmoniously balanced, beautifully highlighting the chefs’ combined skills.
Infinitely Xara General Manager David Spiteri, Infinitely Xara Executive Chef Kevin Bonello, Infinitely Xara Managing Director Justin Zammit Tabona, Relais & Chateaux Restaurant Otowa Chef Patron Kazunori Otowa.
Fine Food
Left: Poached sea bass and lobster, gem lettuce & aubergine tian, with Shitakii mushrooms and Japanese sauce.
Top: Duo of seared duck and rabbit with rice, nori and shimiie with sweet soy sauce.
Above: Pressed stone fruit terrine with hazelnut and green tea ripple ice cream.
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ASIA
FOOD
STORE FOR ALL YOUR ASIAN FOOD NEEDS...
Asia Food Store Triq Nazju Ellul, Gżira Tel: 9998 6988 • FB: Asia food store Opening hours: Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm. Sun, 7am-5.30pm
Food Inspiration
RED
RECIPE ON PG 42 >>
SNA
PPE illi,
lem der orian
h ch
R wit
+c
spice & all things nice
a on gr ss
This issue is all about spicy ingredients to create intense flavours that are going to knock those socks right off‌. Cook: Ann Urpani Photography: Alan Carville
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Food Inspiration
“almost harrisa” Cook: Andrew Chubb Photography: Alan Carville “Harissa is a Tunisian thick paste made from dried chillies, cumin, caraway and coriander (with olive oil of course). This recipe is a play on this traditional dish, making it a great accompaniment for slow cooked meats.” Ingredients ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground caraway 3 ripe tomatoes, peeled 2 dried chillies 2 fresh chillies, de-seeded 1 handful of mint, chopped large pinch of salt and sugar Method Place all the ingredients in a food processor and whizz until smooth.
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Food Inspiration
a unique and tasty carrot dip to get that appetite going.
Cook: Andrew Chubb Photography: Alan Carville Ingredients 500g carrots, sliced to ½ cm pieces 2 large shallots, sliced
1 clove garlic 1-2 tsp harissa (recipe on page opposite) 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tbsp olive oil pinch salt extra virgin olive oil to serve
Method Steam the carrots until soft (steaming rather than boiling helps keep their bright orange colour). Heat half of the oil in a pan and sautĂŠ the onion with the cumin until soft. Then whizz the onions in a food processor with the steamed carrots, harissa and salt. Serve with extra virgin olive oil and galetti.
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CURRY!
30 Cook: Ann Urpani Photography: Alan Carville Plating: Wooden table mats from Next Home. Teaspoons by Carrol Boyes from Ann Urpani.
Food Inspiration
CHUTNEY with that
Food Inspiration
The term “chutney” is an anglicised form of the Hindi word chatni. In India, there’s an implied understanding that these preparations are freshly made from fresh ingredients.
Tomato chutney
Mango chutney
1 kg cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped 500g red onions, finely sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely sliced 6-8 red chillies, roughly chopped thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and chopped 200g brown sugar 150ml red wine vinegar 5 cardamon pods ½ tbsp paprika
3 large quarters of ripe mango 2 tbsp sunflower oil 2 onions, halved and thinly sliced thumb-sized fresh root ginger, peeled & cut into thin shreds 10 green cardamon pods 1 cinnamon stick ½ tsp cumin seed ½ tsp coriander seed, lightly crushed ½ tsp ground tumeric 2 green apples, peeled, cored and chopped 1 large red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced 375ml white wine vinegar 400g caster sugar 1 tsp salt
Method Mix all of the ingredients together in a pot, except for the sugar. Simmer over medium to low heat for about 1 hour, and then add the sugar, stirring through until dissolved. Chill.
Method Mix all the spices together. Sauté the onion in the oil then add the spices mix until softened a little. Add the mango and apple, and fry a little until the fruit is coated with the spices. Add the vinegar and slowly simmer for about 1 hour. Finally, stir the salt and sugar through. For tempering spices:
Coconut chutney 1 cup coconut, grated or desiccated coconut powder 2 tbsp chickpeas, roasted 1 green chilli 5 cardamon pods ½ inch ginger salt for taste *Add coconut cream for consistency Method Grind the roasted chick peas in a spice grinder or mortar & pestle. Then blend all ingredients in a food processor or blender. Finally, stir through the tempered spices after the described preparation following.
1 tsp black lentils ½ tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 clove garlic 1 red chilli ½ tbsp sesame oil olive oil Method To temper the spices, pour a few millimetres of oil in a small pan and add the spices. Warm the oil slowly and the spices will heat up and begin to fry. When you see some of them pop, they are ready.
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RED MULLET RISSOTTO Serves: 4 Cook: Ann Urpani Photography: Alan Carville
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Food Inspiration
1 red onion 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 cup Arborio rice 1 cup white wine
3 cups prawn head stock (you could also use a light chicken stock) 4 red mullet filleted & cut (2 of them into 3-4cm pieces for serving) ½ tsp saffron powder 1 tsp lemon zest
5 large peeled prawns (1 whole prawn for serving) 2 tbsp olive oil salt & pepper
Method Add olive oil to a pan and when hot, add the onion and garlic, frying until soft but not brown. Add the rice and cook until some grains look translucent. Add the wine, bring to a slow simmer and stir until it’s all absorbed. Pour in one cup of warm prawn stock and stir until absorbed, then add the mullet and gradually add the warm prawn stock (c. half a cup at a time, waiting until it’s completely absorbed before adding more).
With the last half cup of stock, add the prawns. Grill the remaining seasoned fish fillets and prawn under the oven grill, skin side up. Serve the risotto using the grilled mullet and prawn as a ‘garnish’ on top. Wine Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay from Charles Grech. This tropical fruity driven character simply adds an extra ingredient, while its young and refreshing aromas perfectly balance the fish. Plating Wooden table mats backdrop from Next Home. Fork and salt & pepper holders by Carrol Boyes from Ann Urpani. Prawns and red mullet from Azzopardi Fisheries, St. Paul's Bay.
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MIDDLE EASTERN STYLE TAGINE Serves: 4-6 Chef: Andrew Chubb Photography: Alan Carville
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warm
+mfohrteafrotoyd from
co the east
Tagine dish and couscous bowl from Cose Casa. Spoon from BUTLERS.
Food Inspiration
Middle eastern style tagine “North African and Middle Eastern flavours are often forgotten by lovers of spiced food that is not hot, but warm and comforting. Adding raisins to the couscous brings a sweetness to the dish.” 1kg lamb, diced (the shoulder is ideal) (We got ours at J&M Butcher) 2 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 12 baby potatoes 2 carrots, halved & quartered 12 cherry tomatoes 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 tbsp cumin ½ tsp ground black pepper 8 whole cloves 2 sticks cinnamon 3cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated 4 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped For the couscous: 2 cups couscous 2 cups water
½ cup raisins (place in warm water to rehydrate for 30 mins to 1 hour) slivered almonds 50g butter 50ml olive oil 20 gelatin leaves
Method In a large heavy saucepan or tagine, heat the oil and brown the lamb well – do this in batches should you need to. Remove the lamb and add more olive oil if needed, soften the onions and then add all your spices and mix through. Then add the meat and juice back to the pan. Deglaze the pan with a little water (about half a cup or less) and use a wooden spoon to scrape the caramelised meat and
onions off the bottom of the pan. Add the other vegetables. Almost cover the mix with water and place the lid over it. Cook in the oven for 2 to 3 hours at 170C. If there is too much liquid, you can return to the stove and reduce the mixture with the lid off. For the couscous, and place the couscous in a bowl with the butter. Pour over the boiling water and cover with cling film. After 5 to 7 minutes, fluff the couscous with a fork, stir through the raisins, and sprinkle over the slivered almonds. Serve with the tagine. I also served this dish with my homemade harissa. (Recipe on page 030.)
Spiced vegetable pickle Serves: 2 large jars (c. 750ml each) “Use whatever vegetables are in season; you can opt for beans, chillies, cauliflower, cabbage, cucumber (deseeded), garlic, courgettes, mange tout, carrots etc. Here, I used cauliflower, chillies, baby corn and snake beans. Try to limit the number of vegetables to three or four.” 2 chillies
¼ head of cauliflower – use the leaves as well 6 baby corn pieces
6 snake beans (our 15 runner beans) 500ml good rice vinegar or white wine vinegar (Find it at the Asia Food Store) 250g white sugar ½ tsp cumin seed (whole) ½ tsp coriander seed (whole)
Method Cut the vegetables into similar sizes or about 4cm lengths (thick julienne cut), and halve the chillies.
spice until all the sugar has dissolved and let cool until warm. Arrange or carefully pack the vegetables in a sterilised jar and cover with the liquid, cover and leave overnight. Pickled vegetables will keep for months in the refrigerator. Wine Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet from Charles Grech. This fullflavoured wine with a firm yet well-rounded structure and balanced oak works very well with the deep, spicy flavours of this dish. Plating Red & black tagine and small bowls from CoseCasa.
Cook’s tip:
The tagine “ doubles as both a
cooking vessel and serving dish which holds the food warm. Since you won’t be stirring during the cooking, take care how you arrange or layer ingredients for a beautiful table presentation.
”
Heat the vinegar with the sugar and
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I
[ larb gai ] 36
THAI CHICKEN SALAD “Fresh and spicy, Larb is a meat
4 tbsp fish sauce 8 shallots, peeled & finely sliced large handful coriander, chopped large handful mint, chopped 4 red chillies
warm or cold. These make excellent
baby gem lettuce to serve (break off individual leaves)
Serves: 4 as an entrée or 8 to 12 as canapés Cook: Andrew Chubb Photography: Alan Carville
salad in Thailand and Laos, served entrées or canapés when served like this.”
Ingredients 500g chicken breast
(we went to J&M Butcher)
6 tbsp chicken stock 1½ tsp salt 1½ tsp white sugar 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 3 limes, zest & juice
Method Roughly dice the chicken into pieces and place in a food processor with the garlic, salt and sugar; whiz until minced. Bring the stock to the boil in a medium saucepan and add the chicken. Stir often to make sure the chicken doesn’t clump together. Set aside, allow to cool; pour off some of the excess liquid.
Food Inspiration
While the chicken is cooling, prepare all the vegetables and limes, add all ingredients and stir – it should taste hot and sour and salty. Chill in the refrigerator. Once cool, arrange, baby lettuce leaves on a plate and add a tablespoon of the larb to each leaf. Wine Torres Viña Esmeralda Rosé from P. Cutajar & Co. The crispness and freshness of this rosé is ideal with the balance of the hot, sour and salty of this dish. Plating Red table mat and heart chopping board from BUTLERS.
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Food Inspiration
? d o o g o s s k e e h c what makes yet very
Pork cheeks with
red wine + beer
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Serves: 2 Cook: Michael Sultana, Tarragon Restaurant Photography: Alan Carville
relatively lean, moist meat.
Food Inspiration
RECIPE ON PG 42 >>
Ingredients 8 pork cheeks 1 pint lager 2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into ½ inch rounds 1 medium onion, chopped 2 celery stalks, chopped 500ml dry red wine 1 can tomato polpa 1 tbsp fresh herbs, such as rosemary or thyme, chopped 100ml oil, for browning 4 large potatoes 2 large carrots dollop butter handful parsley, chopped dash milk salt & pepper
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Food Inspiration
CRISPY FILO BASKET with
prime beef chunks + an asian creme fraiche
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Cook: Michael Sultana, Tarragon Restaurant Photography: Alan Carville
RECIPE ON PG 43 >>
Food Inspiration
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Food Inspiration 3 red chillies, finely chopped 1 bunch fresh coriander 3 limes, juice only 2 tbsp fish sauce
4 large potatoes 2 large carrots dollop butter handful parsley, chopped dash milk salt & pepper
Method Combine all the dressing ingredients and mix well. Mix the salad ingredients and arrange. Drizzle over the dressing and finish with the fresh coriander.
Method In a deep pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Make sure the pork cheeks are dry, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Add them to the pan, taking care not to crowd the meat. Cook until the surface is browned on both sides, about 4 minutes per side, flipping only once or twice so as not to disturb the browning. Remove with tongs as cheeks are browned; set aside. In the meantime, preheat the oven to 130C. Add the onions, carrots, and celery to the pan. Sauté until softened, yet not brown, for about 5 minutes. Add the wine, beer, polpa, and rosemary. Bring to a simmer. Add the pork cheeks and stir to coat the meat in the sauce.
2 tbsp fresh coriander, roughly chopped, to serve
Red snapper with chilli, lemon grass & coriander Serves: 2 Cook: Ann Urpani Photography: Alan Carville 1 whole red snapper fish
2 sticks lemon grass, peeled and bruised 4 spring onions
1 red chilli, seeds removed, julienned 4 lime leaves 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped 1 lime, juice only 1 tbsp fish sauce 2 tbsp olive oil salt & pepper Method Tear off a sheet of aluminium foil long enough to fold around the whole fish, leaving a pouch at the top so the fish steams inside. Lay the foil in a pan large enough to hold the fish. Sprinkle over half of the spring onions and place the lemon grass sticks on the foil, then place the fish on top. Season the fish, both inside the cavity and outside. Do the same with the coriander and lime leaves. Mix the chilli, lime juice, olive oil and fish sauce, and pour over. Take the edges of the foil over the fish and fold them so that the fish is sealed, leaving a pouch of air. For the salad 5 radish, finely sliced 50g mizuna leaves 50g rocket leaves ½ avocado For the dressing 4 tbsp palm sugar 4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp fresh root ginger, finely grated
42
Wine Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc from Philippe Martinet Fine Wines. This generous palate of ripe and succulent citrus and cassis flavours will balance the delicate fish flavour. Plating Wooden table mats backdrop from Next Home. Fork by Carrol Boyes from Ann Urpani.
Cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Braise until the meat is very tender about 3½ to 4 hours. For the mash
Pork cheeks with red wine Serves: 4 Chef: Michael Sultana, Tarragon Restaurant Photography: Alan Carville 8 pork cheeks 1 pint lager 2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into ½ inch rounds 1 medium onion, chopped 2 celery stalks, chopped 500ml dry red wine 1 can tomato polpa
1 tbsp fresh herbs, such as rosemary or thyme, chopped 100ml oil, for browning
Peel the potatoes and carrots. In a small pot, add water and lightly salt it. Add the potatoes and carrots and bring to the boil. Cook for approximately 15 minutes, until potatoes are soft. Drain from the water, and add butter, parsley and milk. Mash completely until all the lumps are clear. To plate, add two lumps of mashed potato to the plate and gently spread using a spoon. Top each spread with a pork cheek. Add some sauce on both cheeks. Top with micro herbs or pork crackling to garnish. Wine 2010 Miguel Torres Cordillera Reserva Especial Carignan from P. Cutajar & Co. Full and rich, the blackcurrant notes with roasted coffee, and garrigue herbs balances the pork cheeks beautifully.
Food Inspiration
Crispy filo basket with prime beef chunks and an Asian crème fraÎche Serves: 1 Chef: Michael Sultana, Tarragon Restaurant Photography: Alan Carville 2 sheets filo pastry 100g onions, chopped 100g red peppers, chopped handful parsley, finely chopped 15g honey 1 tbsp crushed chilli 150g beef 100ml chicken stock 150ml cream Method for the sauce: In a hot frying pan add some vegetable oil and bring up to temperature. Gently fry the onions and peppers until slightly brown. Add the honey and chilli to caramelise. Add the beef and gently brown. Pour the chicken stock and reduce by half. Finish the sauce by adding the cream and gently reduce it. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. For the filo basket Turn the oven on to 220C. Spray some cooking oil onto a ramekin. Fold the filo to form a basket inside the ramekin. Spray it with oil and bake for 4 minutes, or until slightly browned. Pour the beef sauce mixture over the pastry to serve. Wine Trivento Reserve Malbec from P. Cutajar & Co. The sweet tannins and velvety finish of this wellbalanced Malbec works well with the creamy beef.
43
Food Inspiration
{ how to make }
cured
pan cet ta
44
Food Inspiration
here’s how....
Serves: 10 Chef: Steve De Domenico, Rocksalt Photography: Tonio Lombardi 2kg pork belly with ribs and skin removed, cut square 100g salt (or 5% of pork weight) 40g black pepper, crushed 50g dark brown sugar 10g juniper berries, crushed 4g nutmeg, grated 4 sprigs thyme 4 bay leaves, shredded 1 garlic clove, squashed
Method Mix all of the above, except for the garlic and half of the pepper. Place half of this mixture into a bag and lay the meat over it. Place the other half over the meat. Seal the bag and place in the fridge. Remove the meat and rub every 2 to 3 days for even distribution. Leave in the cure for 3 days for every 500g of meat. Once ready, wash off the cure, pat dry, lay fat side down, rub garlic all over, and sprinkle on the remaining pepper. Roll tight with rib side on the inside, and tie it to keep it closed. Hang in a cool and humid place out of direct sunlight - ideally somewhere between
10 to 18 degrees, and with 60-80% humidity. Hang for 4-6 weeks to be able to eat raw. Wine Guerrieri Rizzardi Clos Roareti Merlot 2009 from Farsons Beverage Import Co. This rich, full bodied Merlot made from the highest level grapes is ideal for cured pancetta.
45
Food Inspiration
cured
{ how to make }
duck
brea st. Serves: 4 Chef: Steve De Domenico, Rocksalt Photography: Tonio Lombardi Ingredients 4 duck breasts 10g juniper berries, crushed 200g coarse sea salt black pepper, crushed (to season) 600g brown sugar 4 sprigs fresh thyme
46
Method Clean the excess fat from the duck breasts, then score it. Mix the rest of the ingredients well in a bowl, then spread equally over the entire breast and rub it into the meat. Place fat down in a container with baking paper, cover with cling film and leave in the fridge for 3 to 4 days. After this period, wash off the cure, pat down to remove access dampness, and cover in a breathable material. Tie with a string and hang in the fridge for a couple of days to further dry the meat.
The longer you leave it, the more it will dry. Thinly slice to serve. Wine Charles Smith Boom Boom Syrah 2014 (100% Washington State Syrah) from Farsons Beverage Imports Co. The rich black cherry and tobacco are followed by hints of lavender on the finish ideal for complementing duck.
Food Inspiration
47
Really Good Panna Cotta Sweet
48
Sweet
Serves: 4 Cook: Ann Urpani Photography: Alan Carville
with the sugar, orange zest and extract. Beat the other half of the cream into soft peaks.
3 tsp gelatine powder (dissolved in Âź cup warm water)
Once the sugar has dissolved into the warm cream, add the dissolved gelatine and mix well. Now add the pomegranate juice.
110ml pomegranate juice 75g castor sugar 1 tsp orange zest 500ml double cream 1 pomegranate, seeds only ½ tsp orange extract For the sauce: 2 oranges, peeled & segmented 1 pomegranate, seeds only 4 tbsp castor sugar 4 tbsp pomegranate juice Method Warm half of the cream in a pot
Allow to cool and then stir through the whipped cream. Cover the bottom of the cups/ ramekins with a layer of pomegranate seeds and pour over the cream mixture. Refrigerate overnight. For the sauce, warm all of the ingredients until the sugar is dissolved. Allow to cool and pour over the turned down panna cotta. Plating Round blue place mats and wooden backdrop table mats from Next Home.
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Sweet
VEGAN ROSE WATER ALMOND MILK PUDDING.
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creamy,
c r u n c h y , f r e s h ,+ , all in one.
fragrant
Sweet
Serves: 6 brulées in 100ml ramekins Cook: mayihavethatrecipe.com Photography: mayihavethatrecipe.com 2 cups unsweetened almond milk ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp corn starch ½ cup + 2 tbsp sugar 4 tbsp rose water ¾ cup raw pistachios, chopped ¾ cup pomegranate seeds
Method In a medium saucepan, combine the almond milk, corn starch, sugar and rose water. Whisk until the corn starch and sugar are completely dissolved. Cook at medium heat, stirring often, until it starts to thicken. Turn off the heat and whisk well until thick and creamy. Let cool slightly. In the meantime, prepare six 175ml clear cups. Add a layer of chopped
pistachios at the bottom. Spoon some of the rose water cream, add a layer of pomegranate seeds or dried cranberries, spoon some more rose water cream and top with pistachios and pomegranate seeds. For a creamier consistency, serve warm or at room temperature. If you like it thicker, chill in the refrigerator for 3045 minutes.
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se ropetal Sweet
creme brulee by
andrew chubb
52
" I thought
i'd push the
creme brulee boundries on this one"
Sweet
Serves: 6 brulĂŠes in 100ml ramekins Cook: Andrew Chubb Photography: Alan Carville 600ml cream 2 tbsp dried rose buds 5 egg yolks 60g white sugar 12 (approx.) tbsp demerara sugar Method Preheat the oven to 150C.
Warm the cream with the rose buds (do not boil) for 30 to 45 minutes, until the cream becomes fragrant with a subtle taste of roses. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 mins and strain off the flowers. When the milk is ready, beat the egg yolks with the sugar until the volume approximately doubles, which will take about 3 to 4 minutes with a quality whisk – faster with an electric beater (do not over-beat the mixture). Slowly stir the milk into the egg and sugar mixture.
into the baking dish until the level is about half way up the ramekins, then cover with aluminium foil. Place in the oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes. The custard should just wobble.
Pour into the ramekins and place them in a baking dish. Pour the hot water
Plating Ramekins from CoseCasa.
Remove the brulĂŠes and refrigerate for 4-6 hours (until cold). When ready to serve, sprinkle a thin layer of the demerara sugar over the custard. Using a gas propane torch, melt the sugar and form a crispy top.
53
up gastronomic delights
Valley Road, B’Kara.
T 2149 2149
satariano.com
Food
We’re all about “ wholesome,
delicious, yet easy cooking.
”
lovin la coccinella Photography: Alan Carville
A lot of us will remember the amazing kitchenware shop Living Interiors, opened by the late Daniel Reginiano and run by his niece, Sarah Cini. Daniel’s fierce love of good food urged him to develop his Ladybird Organic Farm in Dingli and a new shop in St. Julians Passion & More. This was at a time when Malta was beginning to bud foodies. Daniel was stoked that this would be the beginning of a new chapter. And it was. Since his passing, his family chose to take over the business to continue on his legacy. The converted townhouse in St Julian’s (just next to Cafe Ole, slightly further up from City of London) was rebranded La Coccinella, with Sarah Cini and her mother, Jeanette Cini at the helm.
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Food
La Coccinella “ offers a range of products that reflect the family’s love for genuine and delicious food
”
Now, La Coccinella offers a range of products that reflect the family’s love for genuine and delicious food. It’s all about organic produce, quirky gifts and household accessories, as well as unique hampers. The products that aren’t fully organic still don’t contain additives and preservatives. Some absolute must-trys from La Coccinella: Their Vincotto. Vincotto is a velvety liquid made by cooking and reducing the grape must from two distinct grape varietals malvasia and negroamaro - for a period of fifteen hours. It’s then aged for four years in oak barrels, allowing the taste and consistency to develop. While there are some overtones of a fine Balsamic, this elixir is not Balsamic vinegar. Vincotto has nuances of prunes, spices,
and heady grape components, and isn’t as woody as Balsamic. Use Vincotto as a condiment, drizzling sparsely over game, roasted meats, salads, aged cheeses, and certain desserts. This is a natural product without any alcohol, colourants, or preservatives. Their pasta range. La Coccinella is big on pasta. They stock over 100 varieties, including gluten-free and whole wheat options. Mainly from Naples and Cuneo, they stock unusual but delicious shapes like A Caccavella – the largest pasta in the world (9cm diameter). The coloured pasta looks fantastic, but also tastes delicious. It contains no colouring or additives, and each colour is flavoured with a different vegetable.
Their organic extra virgin olive oil range. Find extra virgin olive oil from different regions of Italy and Malta. There’s also their very own from the farm in Dingli available. Find another range from Grappolini (founder of Paneolio) in Tuscany. Their Tea. The range of tea from Teapigs, UK has the ethos: ‘No airs. No graces. Just fine tea.’ La Coccinella is big on using quality real tea; whole leaf tea, whole leaf herbs and whole flowers… “Not the dusty stuff you’ll find in regular paper teabags.”
57
Oct/Nov - 2016
Keep updated with the latest news about wines available locally and events taking place in Wanted’s wonderful wine section (which is increasing by the issue). 58
Wine wine / news
1
Just hangin’ out
Um… how cool is this? The Riedel Crystal Leopoldskron hanging decanter can stand and hang from a table, but it’s unusual design actually reduces the amount of time you need to wait for your bottle to “open up” by speeding up the aeration process. Also, did we mention that it hangs from a table? Find Riedel in Malta at La Coccinella, facebook.com/ LaCoccinellaMalta
2
Trivento tasting
Another lovely Wine Club Malta tasting at The Store - P. Cutajar & Co, this time with the Argentinian winery Trivento. See Trivento’s full story on page 66. facebook.com/WineClubMalta
Happy Marriage Secret A new study published in the Journals of Gerontology has reported that drinking alcohol actually promotes marital bliss — as long as your spouse is drinking along with you. Otherwise, you’re better off both passing on the Syrah. The study focused specifically on the drinking patterns of older couples to understand long-term impact of drinking habits on relationships. The scientists found that the greater predictor of marital dissatisfaction was discordant drinking, or when a heavy drinker is married to a light drinker or abstainer. Similarly, when two similar drinkers are married, they are more likely to experience wedded bliss and see their marital quality improve over time.
Thicker Brains
3
Say it isn’t so!
It’s unavoidable… everyone is talking about it… That’s right folks… it’s wine in a can. Now before you start with the “Ew”, canned wines might not be the crème de la crème of wines, but for a wine that you can toss in your bag and go to the beach with, they’re pretty awesome. Nevertheless, since drinking from a can undeniably mutes the taste, most of these wines are likely to have a small portion of residual sugar to help make them taste fruitier. It’s also probable that most of them have some elevated acidity to give them a longer tingly finish.
A scientific study has just found that master sommeliers require so much mental agility to make the grade that the sensory part of their brains becomes physically thicker. Researchers have discovered that the process to becoming a sommelier is akin to spending several hours every day in a kind of sensory gym. The study discovered that both the right insula and entorhinal cortex were larger and more developed in master sommeliers versus a control group of ‘normal’ people, and these areas were most active when a sommelier was smelling and tasting a wine.
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Wine
DE
DA CH RK O C OL AT E SOFT
HARD
RY LT
MA TO TO F IS H &
DARK FISH
LIG
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CU
FIS
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DUC
K
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MEAT
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Gewürztraminer, Riesling, rosé
D
E/ N M SO GA NI VE
F
Noble Late Harvest, port, sherry
H
LFIS
BEE
Cabernet Franc, Cinsaut, Pinot Noir
PORK
K
EN
MB
LA
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60
Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Pinotage
Y
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Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, Syrah/ Shiraz
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STA RC H
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It’s slightly more complex than just red or white. Maximise your menu by making the right pairing choices.
TE A
{
Your Quick Guide to Pairing.
Chardonnay, Viognier
Chenin, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc
Champagne, Lambrusco, MCC, Prosecco
Wine
wine of the issue The Trivento winery’s growth over the last two years has been exceptional. The sales growth of their flagship wine Trivento Reserve Malbec has tripled in the UK in 2014 alone, which resulted in Trivento becoming the top-selling Argentinian brand in the UK since March 2015.
“This radiant, award-winning wine has been a main stay on supermarket shelves for many vintages due to its consistency and crowd-pleasing character. A great beginners’ Malbec with light spice and hints of black cherries, this bright carmine red offers plum and raspberry jam aromas that mingle elegantly with vanilla notes from the 6 months aged in French oak barrels. Well balanced, Trivento Reserve Malbec exhibits sweet tannins and a velvety, fresh finish.” “A youthful, profound, age-worthy Malbec, destined for the long-haul. The palate is medium-bodied with high-quality, textured tannins that will soften out in time. Lovely mineral undercurrent. Powerful yet elegant.” - Decanter World, Wine Award
Grape varieties 100% Malbec. Soil Alluvial soil and drip irrigation, altitude: 1,050 m.a.s.l. Harvest Last week of March, hand-picked in small cases. Maturing In French oak barrels for 6 months, bottling ageing for 5 months. Tasting Brilliant, intense red with violet and bluish tinges. Nose: Cherries, raspberries with balanced notes of vanilla and coconut imparted from oak. Palate: Well balanced, exhibits sweet tannins and a velvety finish.
Retails for €7.99. Imported by P. Cutajar & Co.
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Wine
TALKING People like Trivento wines. To name but two accolades this year, it has scored 95 points and been dubbed the number one Malbec in the UK by Decanter magazine, as well as being named “Best Buy” by Wine Enthusiast magazine. Export Manager José Manuel Infante talks to us about his faith in Argentina’s wine-producing potential, trading up in quality, and the intrinsic similarity in Maltese and Argentinean wine-drinking cultures.
Trivento means three winds. The Polar, Zonda and Sudestada blow across the sunny and arid land of Mendoza, Argentina. Icy and dry, the Polar wind blows from the South, announcing the onset of winter. The first cold front indicates that the time for pruning has begun. The Zonda wind descends from the Andes year-round, but its frequency peaks in spring. Its gusts of hot and dry air improve budding on the vine. The Sudestada wind is the fresh breeze of summer that sometimes brings storms. Cloudiness allows clusters to rest from the broiling sun. This ensures equilibrium in the grapes’ metabolism and leads to uniform ripening.
62
This is the romance of Trivento in Mendoza, at the heart of Argentina’s wine country, famed for Malbecs and other red wines. The city is beautiful, with its
wide, leafy streets lined with modern and art deco buildings, and smaller plazas surrounding Plaza Independencia. Trivento Export Manager José Manuel Infante is passionate about Argentina, about wine, and about Trivento wine in particular. “Argentina has a lot to offer and I want to invite everyone to discover the country because I’m pretty sure that people would be surprised not only at the quality of our wines, but also at the styles. “The winery has different goals, but our main one is to encourage our consumers to trade up in quality. Chile and the new world in general have reached great success in entry level wines, but now we in Argentina are focusing on bringing more to the wine in terms of calibre. We are making it easier for consumers to risk their money on premium Malbec from Mendoza. It’s fresher, easier to drink, more oaky. We are slowly but surely
working towards that balance between old and new.” José is avid in putting Argentina on the map in terms of premium wine quality, promoting varieties to offer consumers more options from the country. “The quality of our wines begins in the vineyard, which is why we have selected the location of our 1,519 hectares with the utmost care. Our nine vineyards are equipped with drip irrigation systems and are situated in prestigious wine-growing areas of Mendoza. Among them, a truly wide variety of topographies, soils and microclimates exist.” The winemaking facilities feature equipment with the latest technology, and grapes are bestowed with the finest care, from their initial reception to bottling, guaranteeing quality. An additional special room houses the 4,000 French and American oak barrels used in ageing premium wines.
Wine
TRIVENTO. A combination of experience and investment in the constant search for new techniques and technologies, which is leading to wines of exceptional quality. A dedicated team of wine-makers and technicians work hard to optimise the expressiveness and quality of each varietal. When José is asked whether he feels Argentinean wine will reach the hearts
of the Maltese, he says, “Definitely. The lifestyles of the two countries are so connected. We in Argentina enjoy life and food, the same as the Maltese. We love cooking outside for friends and family, enjoying the best meat and the best wine. In Argentina, every weekend you see people barbecuing everywhere; people enjoying themselves, sharing and laughing. I see the same here. It’s truly lovely.”
THE WINES 2015 MALBEC RESERVE “We’re very proud of our flagship wine that expresses where we are right now. It’s a very affordable Malbec (retailing for €7.99) with a fresh, fruity and elegant style. This midtier wine aims to reach a large scope of consumers and is a wine for anyone to enjoy at any time. The bottle’s packaging depicts Argentinean plattery, which is reminiscent of the Gaucho, representing the country’s land. It features a very elegant and ornate silver horseshoe pattern, which is a way to honour the humble local people who work on the fields.” EOLO (GOD OF THE WINDS) “This is a special wine produced from a 100 year-old vineyard located in Luján de Cuyo, which is a small town on the outskirts of Mendoza. This is where the winemaking of Mendoza began. To honour this, we have kept the winery exactly as it was originally set up. It’s irrigated the same, without technology. It’s surrounded by olives and roses like they used to practice in the old days. Only 1,000 bottles are yielded a year and it’s the very best wine we can do. This means a lot to us. It’s the best way to represent Malbec and Trivento’s DNA.”
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Wine
All in a Wine-makers Name. Words: Michael Delicata, Emmanuel Delicata Winery
Matthew Delicata, Emmanuel Delicata Winery’s 4th generation family winemaker tells us like it is.
Founded in 1907, we may have left it a little late to introduce ourselves.
confidence and by always planning and investing ahead of time.
But this is probably a time as good as any to tell you what we at Delicata think is in a wine-maker’s name. What if not a sign of quality and pedigree, of passion and a family legacy?
Since then, we at Delicata have initiated a renewed pledge to modern quality winemaking fused with love and respect for our heritage and land.
Proudly I can say that Delicata is Malta’s most awarded winery, a company which is still entirely in the hands of our family and spans four generations of wine-making. Located on the waterfront of Malta’s Grand Harbour, the Delicata winery and tasting vaults reside in the heart of the Mediterranean where Phoenicians grew grapes hundreds of years ago. Like their Tyrian purple dye, prized in antiquity because the colour became brighter with weathering, we too strive, vintage after vintage, to capture the Islands’ sunlight in our wines. The history of making wine in Malta is a long and winding road with many challenging turns. The Delicata winery has taken each one of them with
64
In fact, no other winemaker works as site specific as we do. Over 380 vignerons care for over 20 different international grape varieties which we craft into individual wines. The list includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache Noir, Carignan, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and Moscato. More grape farmers faithfully grow Malta’s native and unique Girgentina and Ġellewża varieties for Delicata. Both heritage vines play a vital role in our wine-making philosophy and we have been championing their existence and revival for many years. Delicata’s domaine of many pocket sized family-run vineyards is what sets us
apart. Crafting expressive wine means matching the right site with the right grape variety, the right soil, rootstock, clone, trellis system, row and slope orientation, and pruning regime. The tapestry of all vineyards gives us a hawkishly monitored grape crop so that each year we can bring out the best wines possible.
Wine
"delicata's domain of pocket sized family run vineyards is what sets us apart " matthew delicata
They reflect everything a modern wine consumer requires: fruit-driven fresh white and rosés, unwooded as well as barrel-aged reds, wines that offer flavour, consistency and quality. In fact, today our signature wines are amongst the most popular and widely available wine brands in the Maltese Islands with a representation in some of the most
impenetrable export markets overseas. The Delicata portfolio, which consists of wines of all types, for all kinds of tastes, occasions and pockets, has received many accolades by acclaimed wine critics. Well over a century of prestigious international awards have been amassed to date.
my two brothers Mario and Michael and I, work hard and closely together. We endeavour to keep on earning your consumer trust so that the D-word remains unequivocally the household name for ‘quality wines from Malta’. So what’s in a wine-maker’s name? My family and I like to think everything!
All of us at Delicata; my father George,
Best wishes from the Delicata winery.
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Wine
Hugel’s Pursuit Wanted explores Famille Hugel’s pursuit to reveal the unique character of a dry, mineral Riesling from a marl-rich terroir, deep and suave in style, which takes time to express itself fully.
schoelhammer covers a
6,300 square metres with 30 rows
of
organically farmed vines dedicated to
Riesling
Long before Alsace received the “Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg”, the Famille Hugel reserved the grapes harvested from this Grand Cru area for their top wines. Hugel Schoelhammer revives an old Alsace tradition that wines from specific sites were called only by the name of the vineyard in which they are grown. Schoelhammer is one of the named lieux-dit. Lieux-dit refers to the name of a plot or vineyard within a larger appellation. Wines from lieux-dit areas also need to meet stringent production standards that include varietals planted, vine density, pruning, trellising, grape maturity and yields. Having created Hugel Reserve Exceptionnelle wines in the 1930s, Hugel
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Wine
Reserve Personnelle wines in the 1960s and, since 1989 the Hugel Jubilee range, it was only natural to now start labelling their top wines under the historic Schoelhammer – an exceptional vineyard at the heart of the Famille Hugel’s Schoenenbourg Grand Cru holding. It’s idyllically situated at mid-slope, at the heart of the Schoenenbourg, which has always been considered an exceptional site, producing fine Riesling with great ageing potential. Schoelhammer covers a mere 6,300 square metres with 30 rows of organically farmed vines dedicated to
Riesling. Schoelhammer’s specific vines grow on Triassic Keuper marl soil with a 45% clay content. The Riesling vines are planted at an altitude of 300 metres, facing due south.
Hugel has always sought out the top vineyards and the best naturally expressions of Alsace noble variety – Riesling. Definitely one to try when exploring your Rieslings.
Schoelhammer 2007 embodies the expertise acquired by the Famille Hugel, today in its 13th generation of winemakers.
Famille Hugel Schoelhammer Riesling is imported by Farsons Beverage Imports Co.
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Wine
IS BIODYNAMIC WINEGROWING A MYTH OR REALITY ? Wanted brings you Nicolas Joly and his daughter Virginie from Château de la Roche aux Moines - two pioneers and leading personalities of the biodynamic wine movement. 68
Fascinating Loire region winegrower Nicolas Joly is one of the pioneers and leading personalities of the biodynamic wine movement. What’s everyone talking about when they use the term biodynamic? Nope, it’s not merely organic… Nicolas Joly left banking in London to take over his family’s wine estate Château de la Roche aux Moines in Savennières.
Wine
At the time that he took over in 1977, Nicolas was sceptical about modern agriculture and the effect it had on nature. When he encountered a book on biodynamic farming, he took an active interest in the ideas found there and began to experiment with them in his wine estate. From 1981, the estate’s top wine Clos de la Coulée de Serrant has been made biodynamically, and from 1984, the estate’s entire range has been produced biodynamically. Nicolas later wrote extensively about biodynamic wine production, and has served as an inspiration to many other wine producers who have converted to biodynamic practices. Like biodynamic agriculture in general, biodynamic viticulture stems from the ideas and suggestions of Rudolf Steiner (1861–1925), who gave his now famous Agriculture Course in 1924, predating most of the organic movement. The principles and practices of biodynamics are based on his spiritual/practical philosophy, called anthroposophy, which includes understanding the ecological, the energetic, and the spiritual in nature. As a practical method of farming, biodynamics embodies the ideal of ever-increasing ecological self-sufficiency just as with modern agro-ecology, but includes ethical-spiritual considerations. This type of viticulture views the farm as a cohesive, interconnected living system.
Some grape growers who have adopted biodynamic methods have achieved improvements in the health of their vineyards, specifically in the areas of biodiversity, soil fertility, crop nutrition, and pest, weed, and disease management. Biodynamic winemakers have noted stronger, clearer, more vibrant tastes, as well as wines that remain drinkable longer. Producers also note that there is a better balance in growth, where the sugar production in the grapes coincides with physiological ripeness, resulting in a wine with the correct balance of flavour and alcohol content, even with changing climate conditions. Fortune magazine conducted a blind tasting of 10 pairs of biodynamic and conventionally made wines, judged by seven wine experts including a Master of Wine and head sommeliers. The result was that 9 of the biodynamic wines were judged superior to their conventional counterpart. The biodynamic wines “were found to have better expressions of terroir, the way in which a wine can represent its specific place of origin in its aroma, flavour, and texture.” Nicolas Joly and his Château de la Roche aux Moines holds all 7 hectares (17 acres) of Savennières’ most celebrated enclave, Coulée de Serrant, which is an Appellation d’origine contrôlée of its own, Savennières-Coulée-de-Serrant.
Joly’s wine from this appellation is labelled Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, and is often mentioned as one of the world’s best dry white wines. In recent years, Nicolas Joly’s daughter Virginie Joly has taken over much of the task of running the estate. Find Château de la Roche aux Moines wines at Philippe Martinet Fine Wines.
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Wine wine / news
Singing Riesling
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Highly fragrant Riesling produces food-loving wines that vary dramatically by region, but that share loads of admirable traits. Its balance of intense acidity, minerality, and fruit makes it an especially good match for spicy foods and the mix of ethnic flavours popular in the west. German Rieslings balance impressive acidity with apple and citrus fruit flavours, and range from dry and refreshing, to sweet and unctuous. Alsace and Austrian Rieslings are higher in alcohol, which makes them more full-bodied, but they’re quite dry and full of mineral notes. Australia’s Rieslings are zippy and full of lime and other citrus flavours.
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1. FAMILLE HUGEL RIESLING CLASSIC 2014 This is a great example of quality Alsatian Riesling. Young and pale green in colour, it’s crisp and clean with dominant green nuances, slightly yellow like lime tree leaves in the spring, with a few silvery hints. Nicely bright and lively, delicate tears run finely down the glass. Enjoy it now for its energy and typicity, or keep it for 3 to 5 years to discover its full bouquet and complexity. From by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. 2. WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL (SOUTH AUSTRALIA) Find lifted floral and citrus fruit aromas on the nose here with the citrus notes carrying on through to the palate, with a fine acid line, giving a clean, crisp finish. This Riesling shows great length,
supported by rich fruit flavours through the mid-palate. From by P. Cutajar & Co. 3. DOMAINE DE LA VILLE DE COLMAR (ALSACE) This lemon yellow with platinum hints offers a highly fruity flavoured nose and a pleasant vividness for the palate with a long persistency. From by P. Cutajar & Co. 4. 2013 ALOIS LAGEDER RIESLING “RAIN” ALTO ADIGE This mineral, fruit-forward Riesling offers white peach, green apple and lemon on the nose, with subtle floral and mineral character building with aeration. On the palate, it’s fruity, tactile and fairly intense, with the floral element lifting the peach and green apple flavours. It finishes with a persistent floral quality and a hint of
residual sugar. This Riesling doesn’t yet exhibit any of the variety’s typical diesel or kerosene aromas, but it could perhaps be the best vintage ever of Rain. Given 89/100 by Ian D’Agata, vinous.com. From Philippe Martinet Fine Wines. 5. 2013 SYBILLE KUNTZ “QUALITÄTSWEIN” MOSEL-RIESLING This Riesling is predominantly sourced in Kues (Kardinalsberg and Weisenstein), from 50-year-old vines on slate and quartzite soils. The wine opens with a clear, fresh and spicy Riesling aroma intermixed with slate-like flavours and ripe apple aromas. Medium-bodied and elegant on the palate, this refreshing and well structured Riesling finishes with grip and some greenish apple flavours. Given 84/100 by Stephan Reinhardt, vinous. com. From Philippe Martinet Fine Wines.
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Wine wine / news
The Secrets to Syrah
Syrah is responsible for some of the darkest full-bodied red wines in the world. With its dark fruit flavours from sweet blueberry to savoury black olive, when you taste it you’ll be greeted with a punch of flavour that tapers off and then has a spicy peppery note in the aftertaste. Because of its frontloaded style, Syrah is often blended with grapes that add more mid-palate, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, to help make the wine taste more complete. Traditionally in France, Syrah is blended with light-bodied Grenache and even richer Mourvedre to create the classic Côtes du Rhône blend. Cool climate Syrah usually hails from cooler climates such as Sonoma, Santa Ynez, and the Northern Rhône. Typically, a lighter Syrah uses less oak ageing. Play with your spice rack to magnify the natural, delicate flavours of this lighter style of Syrah, particularly allspice, clove, and mint. For stronger flavoured foods, warm climate Syrah offers more new oak ageing, which adds to its rich texture and sweet tannin finish. Meat with pepper and cumin is ideal to bring out the fruitiness in this wine, as well as Asian cuisine flavours, such as plum sauce, which will add to the fruitiness.
GRAN CAVALIER SYRAH (D.O.K. MALTA) A rich, robust, silky red wine produced entirely from hand-picked Maltese Syrah grapes. This soft, leathery, full bodied wine with its gamey flavours and ripe soft tannins is matured for one year in French oak barrels in the 17th Century Delicata cellars.
intense aroma of black fruit, berries and raspberries combined with spices, pepper and smoke. The palate is then elegant, with well-defined tannins, followed by a dense, long yet fresh finish. From by P. Cutajar & Co.
PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ SAINTJOSEPH LE GRAND POMPÉE ROUGE 2013 Deep ruby red with violet hues, this rich and concentrated nose offers very ripe red fruits and sweet spices with a final of liquorice notes. Harmonious and frank with rounded tannins, this is a perfect example of a Northern Rhone Syrah without breaking bank. From Farsons Beverage Imports Co.
2012 J.L. CHAVE SELECTION ST JOSEPH “OFFERUS” Here, smoky blueberry, olive paste and violet aromas are lifted and sharpened by a spicy nuance. Pliant, ripe and broad on entry, then more taut in the mid-palate, this Syrah offers sappy black and blue fruit flavours that put on weight with aeration. It shows excellent clarity and a seductive floral note on the finish, which features supple tannins and a hint of candied flowers. Given 91/100 by Josh Raynolds, Vinous.com. From Philippe Martinet Fine Wines.
TRIVENTO GOLDEN RESERVE (MENDOZA, ARGENTINA) To start with, you’re going to find the
2013 REYNEKE SYRAH (ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC) A good dark, fresh red with reduced
aromas of crushed raspberry, lavender, black pepper, spices and flint complicated by leather and a whiff of the barnyard, and lifted by a floral high note. Very saline and savoury, it conveys an impression of sweetness, (although the wine is actually quite dry) to its tangy raspberry and leather flavours. It finishes with substantial dusty tannins and excellent length. Given 91/100 by Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com. From Philippe Martinet Fine Wines. TENUTA RAPITALÀ SYRAH NADIR (SICILY) This Syrah offers a generous bouquet with touches of ripe fruit and the typical spices of this grape variety, with attractive hints of vanilla. The flavour is full and delicate, with soft and elegant tannins. This wine offers a balanced marriage between the depth of the product and the uniqueness of its exceptional terroir. From P. Cutajar & Co.
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Table settings wine / news
Oct/Nov - 2016
Life's most important conversations take place at the dinner table. The best reason in the world to make sure it’s gorgeous‌
GREAT TABLE IDEAS! >>
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Table settings table / news
Laguna Influenced by the constant mutability of coastal tides, the Laguna series by Attico creates a similar relationship between its delicate liquid content and the boundary that surrounds it. Pretty. www.theattico.com
Machines collection Diesel Living and Seletti have set workshop tools on the table with their latest Machines Collection. The tableware collection is a lovely ceramic interpretation of the gears and cogs of industry, rendered with toothed edges and impressions, finished in an industrial white. www.seletti.it/diesel
Some sexy cutlery valerie_objects has commissioned international designers to create a prototype set of tools to eat with. The result was six totally quirky high-end luxury sets of cutlery that surprise and delight eyes, hands and mouth. The designs of Maarten Baas and Koichi Futatsumata are the first two sets that have been taken into production. With their interpretation of the ideal set of cutlery, they will feature the Antwerp based label. www.valerie-objects.com
Big + Kilo Porcelain manufacturer Rosenthal presents ‘TAC big cities’ tableware designed by BIG architects and KILO (Lars Larsen). Having established a portfolio composed of geometric structures with strong references to the Bauhaus, Walter Gropius and his firm – the architects collaborative (TAC) – served as visual references for the serving pieces. Graphics that emerge from the marriage of TAC’s classic style, depict the silhouette of various world city skylines such as Berlin, Copenhagen, London, New York and Paris, outlined in heritage blue on a surface of white porcelain. Find Rosenthal locally at One Two One Interiors, onetwoone.eu
Long live Ralph Lauren {Home} Aren’t they just gorgeous? Soon part of the Ralph Lauren Home collection at LOFT, these stunning beauties alongside a host of knock-out accessories, glassware and flatware will be coming soon to your favourite decorative outlet. LOFT Naxxar, www.loft.com.mt
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Table settings
" I love
c r e a t i n gp l e a sim
centrepiece
l a r u t a n out of age"
ol o k i n g f o l i
FAL L NG I ON AUTUMN. Styling: Josette Schembri Vella, LOFT Photography: Alan Carville
Autumn encourages natural, which is a great excuse to bring in those gorgeous natural materials as much as possible, such as wood in the furniture and accessories, clay in the crockery, and sisal in the tableware. Keep glassware simple, and don’t be afraid to take advantage of contrasting that gorgeous flatware. I love creating a simple centrepiece out of natural-looking foliage. Candles are key to cosy, and don’t be afraid to get eclectic with muted metallic candleholders. 76
T ab l e
by Flamant
Table settings
b am b o o t r ee
by Vrancx
t a bl e glassware
by Cote
GR EEN CR EAM I C B O WL S
by Belgoflor
ch ai rs
by Flamant
w h it e c ro c ke ry
by Cote
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Table settings Autumn’s vivid explosion of warm orange and red contrasts extremely well with neutrals. With a muted backdrop, the accessories can be brought in through real fruits, which serve as a lovely centrepiece, particularly on a striking wooden tray. Take advantage of the fruits and catch the colour through other subtle accessories, such as these muted orange candleholders. Keep crockery simple and flatware down to earth.
"T a k e a d va n ta g e
o f th e f ru it s a n d c a tc h th e c o lo u r through ." o t h e r s u b t le a c c e ss o ri e s ..
GREY TABLE RUNNER
by PHB 78
Table settings
o r an ge can dl eh o l der s
by Flamant
WH I T E CR O CKERY CUTLERY
by Cote
by Cote 79
Table settings
White crockery
by Pols Pottern
cANdleholders
A masculine colour scheme spiced by a small pop of colour makes for a sexy setting. With a simple backdrop of non-compromising neutrals such as grey, black and white, items with personality really have the opportunity to shine. This is how to bring in that gorgeous patterned crockery, beautiful designer accessories, and killer crockery
by AYTM
golden flower holder
by H Skjalm glassware
by Cote Table + Pols Potten
grey runner
by Cote Table 80
Exclusively at Brands International Ltd. Triq tal-Balal, San Gwann | sales@brands.com.mt | www.brands.com.mt
Travel
[ PERSPEC T I V E ]
to n io lo m b a rd i
l a ic op tr d n a , a te e, ic sp e th ts vi si fr u it la d en
SRI LANKA
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Travel
“Most short eats and snacks in Sri Lanka are called Roti, which is basically thin flatbread grilled on a hot plate. Roti are sometimes served filled with a variety of fillings taking the form of samosas or even as a dessert.�
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“The tropical climate in Sri Lanka makes it a tropical fruit paradise. Coconuts literally fall off the trees on the side of the road (you learn to avoid standing under them eventually). A wide range of fruit is available in abundance: papaya, Jack fruit, durian, pineapples, avocado, passion fruit, to name a few. You can find amazing fresh juices made in a blender, served with ice while you wait almost everywhere.”
Travel
“Even though the food influence in Sri Lanka comes predominantly from India, the Island’s long colonial history has brought an influence of western style dishes. You can find pancakes and omelettes in most places around Sri Lanka. However, tea is their real thing. The tea industry was introduced by the British back in 1867 and has soared since then. Nowadays, Sri Lanka is the world's 4th largest producer of tea and it accounts for 2% of its GDP. If you're into tea, this is the place to be: the sheer variety available is impressive. Visiting the central highlands, where the climate makes it ideal to produce high quality tea, you can see vast spans of tea plantations blanketing the landscape. The texture of the leaves mixed with the blue skies makes it a landscape photographer's paradise.” 85
Spots shopping / news
Fresh & Yum
These Aloevine beverages are seriously yum… and good for you. The pulp is a lovely soft, cool texture that’s perfect when you crave that fresh feeling. Find it at all available supermarkets. facebook/aloevinemalta
Free Parking & Delivery
Tower Supermarket, the three-floor supermarket forming part of the Sliema Car Park complex in the heart of the locality, stocks a wide range of food including a bakery, delicatessen and butcher counter. It also offers a wide range of household, stationery, toiletries, giftware and detergents. Free parking and free delivery is also offered. Tower Supermarket, High Street, Sliema. www.towersupermarket.com
Yummy Vincotto Epicure
Find a wide range of the super healthy Epicure range at Gala Supermarkets. facebook/Gala Supermarket.
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Gianni Calogiuri Dolce Nero Chocolate Vincotto is delicious in desserts or as a topping on fruit, ice cream and cakes. Also known as saba, or mosto cotto, Vincotto originates from an Ancient Roman process in which the grape must is cooked slowly, caramelising the sugars and reducing it to a dense, dark liquid. The addition of rich chocolate gives it a new spin, complementing the already deep flavours. All natural, with no added colouring, preservatives or sugar and zero fat calories. Try this velvety chocolate elixir once and you’ll be hooked. La Cocinella, 65, High Street, St. Julians. T: 2756 3031. facebook.com/LaCoccinellaMalta
Interview
with restaurateur
marvin gauci He’s a charismatic character, there’s no doubt about it. Owner of the highly successful Caviar & Bull, Tarragon, Buddhamann, and now Dinner in the Sky, talks to Wanted about how he does it all. How did it all begin? I was working as head chef of a golf club in Ireland and my Irish wife wanted to come live in Malta. So we packed it all up and came back. I began working as a chef in a hotel, and then I went into partnership at Wild Thyme restaurant. I was there for five years, but I needed to spread my wings. I always wanted a restaurant facing the sea, and so I created Tarragon restaurant. Things always taste nicer with a good view. Besides the stunning sea view, how is Tarragon a departure from Wild Thyme?
true. I had a lot of friends helping me out and we made it happen in a very short amount of time.
the business could totally crumble. So it was crazy there for a while in the beginning, but we fixed it quickly.
For the first seven years, revenue kept growing until it levelled off and stopped increasing at the same pace. This was the time to start something else; something that Malta was ready for. I opened Caviar & Bull, then one year later, Buddhamann. Then a year later - this year, I started Dinner in the Sky.
Which particular skills do you possess that make you such a successful restaurateur?
What’s your secret to finding a balance for yourself when running four successful businesses? Before I opened Caviar & Bull, I changed my strategy. I created a structure whereby I don’t have a job for myself in any one of the restaurants. I micromanage for a few months until I get things exactly how they need to be, and then I let people bring in their own personalities to that teaching. Buddhamann’s location helped, especially during the micromanaging stage in the beginning - it was easier to run up and down. The same thing happened in the beginning of these two restaurants that had happened at Tarragon - the unexpected quantity of customers. You can put a business in serious jeopardy like this. If you don’t fix things instantly,
I love people and they can feel that. I’m intense when I’m buying ingredients, which means that I only get the best. My very tasteful wife helps a lot with the interior design of each place, which is a huge advantage. Also, I understand people’s tastes in food, which helps me know what customers want. My ethos it that the client is number one. Beyond this, I have amazing and loyal staff that prove themselves consistently. My four children inspire me a lot - three boys and a girl. How did Dinner in the Sky come to fruition? I had contacted them a few years ago but nothing came of it. After four years, my friend Mark Weingard came back from having the experience in Athens. He loved it, so we partnered up and did it. What’s next? If I told you, I’d have to kill you.
I’ve added a lot of new things to Tarragon’s menu, but it’s on the same level. I checked what was happening internationally and implemented that in areas where I felt Malta was ready. Tell us about the beginning of Tarragon, Caviar & Bull, and Buddhamann. From day one in 2007, we were completely packed out at Tarragon. I hadn’t done any advertising so I’m still actually baffled as to why. I just opened and people came. A lot of people came. I thought it could have been a fluke, but it continued on like that, which was a bit of a problem because I had to upgrade my structure immediately. I had to triple my kitchen staff, increase the kitchen size, and change systems in two weeks. I had to completely change all my planning in a fortnight. There was also the stress of not knowing for sure if this was a phase, or too good to be
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Palazzo de Piro, 3, Triq Is-Sur, Mdina. T: 2010 0560. www.palazzodepiro.com Philippe Martinet Fine Wines, 239/BB Tower Road, Sliema. T: 2703 0093.
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TABLE STYLING SHOPPING DIRECTORY BUTLERS, Tower Rd, Sliema. www.butlers.com.mt Carrol Boyes. T: 9923 1907. ann.urpani@gmail.com. Cose Casa, 77, Three Churches Street, Balzan. T: 2144 7672. www.cosecasa.com LOFT: See contact details above. Next Home, Bisazza St, Sliema. www.facebook.com/NextMalta
M. CHAPOUTIER IS THE WORLD’S MOST ADMIRED FRENCH WINE BRAND IN 2016 M. Chapoutier wines are officially represented & Distributed in malta by
Philippe Martinet Fine Wines 239/BB, Tower Road, Sliema • www.martinet-finewines.com • Tel: +356 2703 0093