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Great: of an extent, amount, or intensity considerably above average. Outdoors: any area outside buildings or shelter, typically that are far away from human habitation. Being able to experience the passion that all our volunteers have for this “Great Outdoors” has to be one of the untold benefits of this job. From Norine’s passion for the tiniest birdlife, to Barbara’s obvious love for the mighty elephant, it all comes through, as you will see in the pages and articles that follow. Even though, granted, I’m seated at a desk typing this, I can still look out the window to see birds flying, monkeys scampering, and our canine head of security capering after them in the vain hope of catching one to play with. Lions are always a favourite of the photographers, and this lovely lady is no exception. A quiet moment of reflection, or pondering her next meal…?
You know where we are if ever you want to come join us Tim Feherty, Photography Manager, Northern Ireland
African Impact is the product of visionaries who want to positively impact Africa, and want Africa to positively impact us, and I am one of the beneficiaries. Years ago I landed in West Africa as a U.S. Peace Corps volunteer. During the intervening years I have spent part of my professional life supporting programs in Africa in the field of public health with a focus on law and policy. Although my work has been concentrated in francophone Africa I am most at home in the bush and game reserves of Southern and Eastern Africa (perhaps because I grew up in the bush in Northern Ontario and Quebec?) My husband David has joined me on some great safaris, but for him the unique destinations are among many that he’d like to experience and his interest in returning to Africa has waned. For me the safaris have been merely one more way to return to a place that I must absolutely visit every 2-3 years, as well as a great place to switch to digital photography that has revealed the fascinating world of birds. In 2010, without David but with his encouragement, I enrolled in the 28-day field guide course in a bush camp near Kruger (free from any obligation to take the finals). No electricity or internet, 2 person tents, a shower and toilet tent 3 minutes up a long incline, and day after day of walking, driving, and absorbing everything there is to know about the flora and fauna of South Africa. It was truly delightful for someone who loves the combination of learning and the bush.
In 2015 I struck gold when I discovered the one-month African Impact photography volunteer project near Hoedspruit. Bush immersion, birds, mammals, learning, photography – perfection! It was rigorous work and neither Tim nor Julie (our instructors) expected less than our best effort. With my lovely young photographer colleagues Allanna and Elysha we were sent off to photograph ‘round, red, living, dead’, frame within frame, rule of thirds, composition, shadows, reflections, lines, portraits, detail, balance, and stealth images of colleagues and staff. We went off to conservation and community project activities with the dual task of physical work and photography for the African Impact database. We were also the photographers of record for day and overnight game drives, a surprisingly organized trash site, and the wonderful reptile center where the dedicated staff educated away our fears of snakes and scorpions. In this part of the world the most effective way for outsiders to contribute effectively is to support the people who are here to stay – skilled and dedicated guides and the staff of African Impact. So although I’ve met my own personal goal of improving my bird photography I have also been able to participate in conservation and community development, education and information and a photographic record, all essential tools for making a difference. Still, what I have gained seems so much greater than what I’ve been able to give.
When I arrived at the Lodge for a month-long photography program, I was certain that I was going to be amongst a group of hardcore professionals that, of course, already knew all of the nooks and crannies of the photography world, but I was so relieved and excited that there was a five-day, crash-course, photography workshop in line for us to attend before we had to submit our polished photos. Coming into the program with some photo experience, but mostly video, I couldn’t believe how much I was learning, literally, every hour. I felt as though I had a whole semester of photo class rolled up into one intense week. Our own professional photographer went through exposure values, composition, white balance, photography history, metering, night photography, Lightroom and even put in some of his free time to teach us how to take photos of the night sky. I was so impressed by his vast knowledge of photography, but mostly his love for it; it was contagious! As the week went on, I was able to put these newfound skills to the test in our environment instead of just clicking away at the first giraffe I saw just because it was so exciting to see them in Africa.
The next few weeks were full of great moments and opportunistic shots. Tim arranged for us to go to Klaserie (three times – be jealous) for some great sightings! Our first trip in the reserve, we saw four out of the Big Five, but the last trip we saw all Big Five in one day! We even saw not one, but two leopards, pretty much right when we got into the gate. Talk about proper timing! The last two weeks proved to contest with the community and conservation work. It was great to actually do some physical work along with the rest of the crew, and yet still capture some photos of the work that the volunteers do and the conservation projects worked on. It is a good feeling to know that the photos you are crafting can be used to further conservation education and hopefully rope in some new volunteers with the catchy photo. Photography is such an interesting form of art because most people think that anyone can be a photographer with all of the iPhones and Droids these days (Blackberry’s for Sarah), which is true, but a photo is just a photo unless you compose the image in your head before you snap the picture. Creating composition in your photo is what makes a photo art. African Impact values this idea in their photography courses. That is why so many of us can have such a strong learning curve by putting technical and compositional knowledge into our pictures to make art. My time at the Lodge has been very beneficial to my photography skills, but mostly I am grateful to have been given this opportunity and be surrounded by people that have put their heart and soul into their work. It is a great thing to see and be a part of; to actually know that by taking part, I, too, have made an impact.
I loved leopards before I ever saw one. What’s not to love? Not only are they equipped with stunning rosette-filled fur and piercing light eyes, but also they are one of the most adaptable creatures in the savanna. One thing I’ve always enjoyed about them is that fences do not contain them. They survive in various habitats, living amongst various threats and conditions, surviving on various sources of food. Add to that their overall elusiveness, independence and downright beauty and you have the unicorn of big cats…at least as far as I’m concerned. Lucky for me, setting up new projects in Greater Kruger turned 2015 into the year of leopard research. Forming a leopard focus and diving into all elements of studying them has been one of the most memorable and meaningful experiences of my life. Although tedious and frustrating at times, the achievements we have been able to accomplish in only 6 months have constantly surprised and captivated me. They are achievements I am happy to share with you here. HIGHLIGHTS… •We identified 3 key individuals – LEF1, LEM1 and LEM3. Using camera trap, visual, track and kill data we mapped out movements and territories. This included the two (VERY) large males in overlapping territories, sometimes during the same time frames at the same location!! Both males have tracks that measure approximately 12-13cm in length!
•We marked out a potential hole that leopards were using to enter and exit one property. When this was confirmed, we developed a focus to study the corridor use of the Guernsey leopards in and out of properties. Once we know the leopard corridors and the threats that exist on these various properties we can work towards mitigating them. •We observed the mating of “LEF5” and LEM3 over 3 days in August. This included taking notes during audio as well as camera trap photos of both leopards together. •From camera trap photos, we also realized that LEM1 was in the same area as LEM3 and LEF1 during their mating. The most active time period for all three leopards was during this time frame. •We had photos of leopard on the camera traps at the lodge, although they were not clear enough to ID. •We collected track and camera trap data at another property (AM). Since setting up camera traps we have confirmed the presence of LEM1 AND LEM3 on this property as well as signs of a female and juvenile. •We identified new corridor holes on another fenceline (these neighbouring properties connect to AM) and had photos of a juvenile as well as adult male(s). We are still not sure if this male is LEM1, LEM3, both or another! •We had active data from “LEF5” in a different area. This included a grey duiker kill and frequent movement through one key area. She was potentially pregnant so we continued to monitor her presence. A December sighting provided photos that proved LEF5 was actually the same female as LEF1 (we only had one photo of LEF1 before). This meant “LEF5” was actually the first leopard we ever saw!! •We set up camera traps and had pictures of LEF1. She did not appear pregnant. Therefore she may have cubs that we have not seen…yet!
IN TOTAL… •We have had 15 successful camera trap placements in the Guernsey area! (Successful = confirmed leopard presence) •287 camera trap photos have been collected of leopards! On average, this is 47.8 photos per month, more than one photo per day! •6 confirmed corridors have been identified that leopards use to move in and out of different properties. This is crucial in understanding their movements and the different threats they face.
From these quick bullet points, you can see what a productive and exciting 6 months it has been! Studying leopards is not easy but it is absolutely important. There is undeniably a lack of data on this species and understanding their populations. Additionally, most data has been collected within protected areas although many leopards exist outside of them. In order to ensure their future and protection we must work towards understanding where their home ranges are and what the threats are within those areas. For us on the ground, that overall goal takes form in smaller more immediate priorities: Who is the male on the other fenceline? Are LEM1 and LEM3 still in the same territory, if so why, if not where has the other moved? Are there LEF1’s cubs bouncing around to ID and monitor? Which leopards are moving through our lodge property? What are the threats that the leopards face on neighbouring properties and what can we do about it? These questions all need answered and there’s no other way I’d like to start off 2016 than by attempting to figure them out! As frustrating as researching leopards can be, one thing is certain – it is ten times more rewarding and one hundred times more unforgettable!
This is the elephant tale. We are out on our morning game drive in Klaserie. Our guides Alex and Ryan have switched positions. Alex is at the wheel and Ryan is sitting in the tracker seat, which is hanging out front over the hood of the truck, spotting animal tracks. We are looking for elephants, lions, leopards, wild dogs, buffalo and raptors, to name just a few. We are driving down Goya Road, which is really a dirt track. Elephants are spotted off to our right. It is two adult bulls. We stop and turn off the engine, which is the protocol when close to wildlife. We are trying to identify the elephants and check if they match any in our I.D. kits. We watch as they move towards us, grabbing branches and eating them as they walk. We realize too late that their trajectory will bring them very close to the vehicle, however we don't want to startle them by turning on the engine. Ryan, sitting on the tracker seat, is very exposed. He starts talking quietly to the first elephant in a low and gentle monotone. The elephant slows, looks over at us and then crosses the road. He is only about 15 meters away but he continues to walk and then stops just off the road at a tree to feed. The second bull is closer, he stops before he crosses the road and looks at us, shakes his head, takes another step and stops again. We are all holding our breath - the guides are both talking in a low calming monotone. The bull is only about 8 meters away now.
He starts walking again moving in front of the truck on the road and climbs a small rise just to the left of the truck, he then turns to face us. He is now standing above us - 5 meters from Ryan. He lifts his right front foot, dangling it in the air. He appears uncertain about where he is going to put it. Is he going to step over the log that is right in front of him and head down the slope? He decides to rest his foot on the log. Ears are moving, he keeps shifting his weight, and then he twists his trunk and raises it slightly to smell us. We are not sure what his next move will be - time has slowed - he shifts his weight again, raises his trunk and tilts his head back so we have an amazing view of his mouth (one we won't forget). What will he do next? Alex and Ryan are still calmly talking, we are all motionless. The bull lowers his trunk, swings it side to side and slowly turns to join the first bull. He looks back once and then continues his foraging stroll. There is an audible sigh of relief, the guides are visibly relieved that they did not have to intervene, and then the chatter begins - how cool was that? Did you see him almost put his foot down on our side of the log? Have you ever seen an elephants mouth in its entirety that close? How blessed are we to have witnessed that? We are so incredibly privileged to be here and experience this.
I think we all come to Africa for different reasons. Some of us come for the big five while others strive to witness a smaller part of nature. Regardless, there are some species that I, personally, never consider. It is not that I do not wish to see them. Rather, it is an acceptance that some species create a once in a lifetime moment and are especially rare to see. I have never considered myself to be lucky. After seeing the wild dog for the first time in Klaserie, I assumed (in my own mind very safely) that it would be my first, and last, encounter with them. However, I was wrong. We found a different pack in the Kruger National Park. As a group, we were all taking pictures of a lone hyena as another ranger eagerly waved us forward. What was five wild dogs turned into over twenty and we found ourselves surrounded. They were so calm, so used to the multitude of vehicles driving in and out to get a better look. As the dogs laid in the road, it was as if they demanded my attention. I granted their wish. My camera shutter could not react quick enough. From video to picture mode, I went back and forth trying to capture the experience. Watching the wild dogs was incredible enough. When a hyena walked into the area, though, the event became even more interesting.
We were all then part of an even more unseen part of nature as the hyena started to guard the small water hole in front of us. Soon, much as we were before, the hyena was surrounded by wild dogs but defended the water hole well.Yet, the moment was over as soon as it started. A cape buffalo rushing in contributed to the brevity of the altercation. As a biologist, I contemplated the fate of the hyena as we drove off. Tom’s initial reaction, “Oh my God, wild dogs!”, echoed in my mind as a reminder of the excitement. With every part of our following conversation, the other volunteers and I delved deeper into the rationale of the hyena, ultimately concluding that the lack of water had led the hyena to its battle for survival. In what Tom later called “a beautiful moment,” we also recalled how the alpha male took the lead against the hyena as if fate itself had pre-arranged a fight against the two gladiators. Towards the end of the day, we were told by another individual that the wild dogs had killed a hyena and started to feed on it. I believe we all assumed it was the brave one who defended the water hole earlier that day. As we left the park, we drove past the site of our encounter potentially all contemplating the reality of nature and how raw it must be to function as intended. I, myself, did not wish to see the death of the hyena but appreciated how nature had allowed me to be part of its grand story. The moment was that of a dream – truly a once (or twice) in a lifetime, majestic experience.
We have just completed the first three weeks of community work at our Greater Kruger park location. It has only been a short time but so much progress can already be spotted. Basically what we as the community team have been doing is working at the Seganyane primary school. Prior to these three weeks the preparation, establishing the contacts and planning the work was done by Trico and Lorna, the two driving forces behind this project. However, they needed people for on the ground, people that had the attitude, knowledge and dedication that was highly needed. And therefore it was such a blessing that three weeks ago we have been joined by this amazing couple from Mexico and the Netherlands. Not only did they bring in new insights and fresh blood, but also 20 years of teaching experience. So far we’ve spent four days each week at the school. On Mondays we provide grades six and seven with a class on conservation, covering everything from poaching to garbage distribution. These classes are normally attended by somewhere between 65 and 75 students. For many of them it is the first time they hear about the impact of waste on nature and for instance how long it takes for a banana peel to decompose. It's great to see that after class, when we provide all of them with a banana and a drink, they all throw their peel in the garbage bin and then come up to you to make sure that you saw them doing it. For us it’s not only great to notice that they immediately put what they’ve learned into practice, but also to see that they become proud to do so. That way not only do they develop their consciousness regarding the environment but also boost their self-confidence.
On Tuesdays we have grade four over for homework assistance. In the school where we are working grades one to three are taught completely in their native language and it is only from grade four that they start having classes in English. Since homework assistance for all of the courses depend on a certain level of English we want to make this a main focus. Also during homework assistance we try to make classes very interactive in order to stimulate pro-activity and to boost self-confidence. But let’s face it, the classes are extracurricular which means that the children have them after a full day of school so we always start off by doing a few short games or dances and try to also do small breaks during the classes. Wednesdays are always interesting, as on those days we have grade five with us in the library to support them with their homework. Even though teaching in English starts the previous year, grade five still struggles a lot with most of the aspects of the language. Therefore we have decided (as with grade four) to only focus on English for now until we have proof that their reading and writing level is sufficient enough to start with homework assistance for different subjects. Looking back at these three weeks I think I speak for the whole community team when I say that we are really proud and thankful for what we have established so far. We are continuously finding out what works and what doesn’t and are becoming familiar faces among the staff and students at the school. In the end to see the children grow in knowledge, self-confidence and awareness is what it really is about. This short time seems to have already made an unforgettable impact on the children who attend our classes and we hope to further develop and understand all of the possible opportunities to improve and extend our impact. We won’t rest before we know we have used, and continue to use, our time, resources and capabilities to the fullest.
Lieke’s photo shows exactly how to make the best of a bad lighting situation; obviously we want the light on our subject, but sometimes it’s impossible to position the truck exactly where you want it. This fantastic silhouette just proves that necessity is, indeed, the mother of all invention. Superb!