ASKtheexpert

Ask the Expert

By Miri Talabac

Camellia sasanqua x hiemalis ‘Sparkling Burgundy’

Camellia Cuttings

Q: I’d like to propagate a family member’s camellia as a memento, but don’t know when cuttings should be taken or the best way to root them. What do you suggest? A: If you have the luxury of time, prepare in advance to have ample softwood (young growth that’s still supplestemmed) by giving mature plants a light trim during the growing season. If the plant is already producing ample new growth on its own, this won’t be necessary. Mid- to late summer is suggested as the ideal time to take cuttings so the stems have semi-hardened by that time. The late Dr. William Ackerman, plant scientist and camellia breeder, noted in his book Beyond the Camellia Belt: Breeding, Propagating, and Growing Cold-Hardy Camellias that the base of the cutting should be “beginning to harden and turn woody,” which occurs around mid-July and runs into early autumn in our area. I have read that the October-November timeframe is sometimes cooperative for taking cuttings, although in that case, expect that rooting won’t commence until spring. Ackerman suggests an ideal cutting length of five nodes. (Nodes are the point on the stem where leaves attach.) A blend of coarse sand and peat moss or peat moss with perlite is a good rooting medium, and cuttings must be kept humid (but with enough air circulation to discourage fungi) so they don’t dehydrate. Rooting hormone can help speed rooting, and some formulations contain a fungicide to discourage stem rot. Products come with different concentrations of hormone; the later in the season cuttings are taken, the stronger the concentration will have to be. Keep cuttings out of direct sunlight. If they are being rooted indoors, try using bottom heat from a seedling heat mat or another mild source of warmth—this will also encourage rooting. Even with all of this, it can take 6–8 weeks or longer for cuttings to root, depending on the time of year and maturity of the wood taken. Propagation by grafting, air-layering, and seed collection and germination are also covered in Ackerman’s book, but taking cuttings is the most widely used method. The American Camellia Society also provides some tips on its Rooting Camellias page (americancamellias. com/education-and-camellia-care/ propagation/rooting-camellias).

Indigo Milk Cap mushroom.

Mystery Mushrooms

Q: I’ve seen mushrooms in the yard this year that I don’t recall seeing before. I do have trees in the area, but they appear to be fine. Should I be worried or remove the mushrooms? A: Fortunately, the appearance of mushrooms isn’t necessarily a harbinger of doom. While some plant pathogens can produce prominent mushrooms, many other beneficial or harmless fungi do as well. Mushrooms are reproductive structures for fungi, not unlike flowers/ fruit for plants. This means that removal of the mushroom is akin to picking a bloom or ripe fruit on a perennial or tree: It may slightly stifle the ability to spread, but won’t remove or harm the main organism itself. As long as the fungus body remains alive and active, mushroom production can resume any time the environmental conditions are conducive to their growth. You can certainly remove mushrooms that you’re worried a pet or child may eat when out in the yard, but otherwise you can ignore them and they’ll disintegrate and go away soon enough. Several wild animals enjoy eating mushrooms, including box turtles and turkeys. Many fungal sources of mushrooms in the yard are either saprophytes or mycorrhizae. Saprophytes feed on organic matter that is already dead or degrading, like fallen leaves, dead plant roots (which are natural for healthy plants to have), dead insects or other animals, and other detritus. They are important recyclers that convert nutrients back into forms that live plants and other beneficial soil microbes can absorb. Mycorrhizae form intimate and essential partnerships with plant roots, enhancing their ability to absorb moisture and nutrients and aiding in plant growth. The majority of terrestrial plant species rely on them and they are beneficial for plant well-being. Here’s an interesting tidbit to illustrate that disparity in harmful versus harmless fungi: One of our office reference books is Macrofungi Associated with Oaks of Eastern North America. It provides an overview of a wide range of mushroom-producing fungi that can be found growing alongside oaks, although not always exclusively. Of the 216 species profiled, more than half at 125 species are mycorrhizal, 70 are decomposers (saprophytes), and only 21 are pathogens. That’s a lot of good-tohave-around fungi that we don’t need to worry about. If it’s any consolation (perhaps not), mushrooms arising from active pathogens causing plant damage or dieback won’t be treatable once the mushrooms become evident, so even in that situation there’s no direct action you need to take. Trees with mushroom growth around their base can be evaluated by a certified arborist who can help determine if tree instability due to wood decay has become a concern. o

Miri Talabac is a Certified Professional Horticulturist who has worked as a horticulture consultant for the University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center since 2019. To ask a gardening or pest question, go to http://extension.umd. edu/hgic and scroll to “connect with us.” Digital photos can be attached.