Heirloom Cucumber s

By Barbara Melera

Cucumbers are an ancient fruit that has been enjoyed by humanity for millennia. The fruits are low in calories and high in many important nutrients, such as magnesium, manganese, and potassium. They are also high in antioxidants and contain a significant amount of water, which aids in hydration. They have been an integral part of American home gardens for hundreds of years.

It is generally agreed that cucumbers originated in India and have been under cultivation for at least 3,000 years. From India, the plant was introduced to China and then to the West. Both the Greeks and the Romans knew and grew the cucumber. With the possible exception of some gherkins grown in the West Indies, they were not indigenous to the New World, but they quickly became popular after European explorers introduced them.

Benjamin Watson, in his book Heirloom Vegetables, said, “In 1535 Jacques Cartier mentioned seeing large cucumbers being grown in what is now Montreal, and in 1539 DeSoto found Indians in Florida growing cucumbers that were ‘better than those of Spain.’”

In his 1848 catalogue, David Landreth II described three cucumber varieties, two principally used for pickling (then the most popular use for cucumbers) and one for slicing. Cucumbers are usually classified as either pickling or slicing varieties, but many varieties can be used as both. The fruits vary enormously in size and shape, but the color is usually a shade of green—from dark to the palest greenish-white.

In the world of gardening today, gardeners make some very important mistakes when it comes to cucumbers.

First, we plant seedlings rather than direct-seed. Cucumbers do not transplant well. They should always be seeded directly, not transplanted.

Second, we plant cucumbers way too early! In USDA Zones 3–7, cucumber seeds should be planted around June 15. If you wait this long, your seeds will sprout much faster, your plants will be much stronger, and you will get cucumbers in the same amount of time as if you had planted seedlings in late May. Also, your plants may not be subjected to cucumber wilt.

Third, all cucumbers can be trellised and should be trellised.

Fourth, gherkins must be harvested when the fruit is no more than 2—3 inches long. If you wait, the gherkins become mis-shapen and ugly.

Heirloom Cucumber Top Picks

These are the 10 best pickling and slicing heirloom cucumbers of all time.

•Parisian Pickling

Introduced around 1892, this rare French heirloom is a true gherkin or cornichon. ‘Parisian Pickling’ can be harvested when the cucumber is tiny (2 in.). This cucumber has unusual sweet- ness, and therefore an excellent choice for pickling. From seed to mature fruit takes no more than 65 days.

• Bush Pickler

A late 20th-century introduction, ‘Bush Pickler’ is prized as a home garden favorite. The plant takes up little room and produces an abundance of 4 in. fruit excellent for pickling. Fruit matures the fastest of all the cucumbers—50 days from seed to mature fruit.

• Chicago Pickling

‘Chicago Pickling’ was introduced in 1888 and remains one of the most popular pickling cucumbers. The 5 to 6 in. fruit are thin-skinned, blunt-ended, and medium-green. Plants are prolific and disease-resistant. ‘Chicago Pickling’ is outstanding for dill pickles. Plants mature in 55 days from seed.

• Straight 8

The ‘Straight 8’ cucumber is perhaps the most famous of all cucumbers, It is considered to be a slicing cucumber, but many people also make bread-andbutter pickles with it. It was introduced in 1935. The fruits are about 8 inches long (hence the name) with dark-green, smooth skin. The vines are extraordinarily disease-resistant and the fruits ripen quickly in 52–75 days depending on the weather.

• Muncher Burpless

The science behind what makes a burpless cucumber burpless is nothing less than astonishing. Understanding this science can only arouse an amazing respect for the awesome organization of Mother Nature.

The group of cucumbers that are known for their inability to cause indigestion in human beings is known as burpless cucumbers. All of these cultivars share one common trait: The stems, leaves, and fruit do not possess the naturally occurring biochemical compounds known as cucurbitacins. Cucurbitacins are biochemical compounds belonging to the steroid group. In cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins, they cause the stems, leaves, and fruit to have a bitter taste. Wild cucumbers, squash, and pumpkin plants all possess, to varying degrees, the cucurbitacin compounds. Because of their bitter taste, it is believed that cucurbitacins help protect the plants and their fruit from pests, both insect and animal.

The burpless cucumbers are naturally occurring mutations (sometimes known as sports) that did not produce cucurbitacins, but they also could not protect themselves from herbivores. These plants have prevailed because human beings have protected them and have developed the cultivars through natural breeding programs. The result has been that a plant that would not have survived in the wild has been cultivated and protected by mankind because of its flavor and its inability to cause indigestion.

Of all the burpless cucumbers available today, the most famous and maybe the best-flavored is ‘Muncher Burpless’. This cultivar was developed in Wisconsin decades ago the result of natural breeding programs. You can save the seeds for planting in future seasons. The fruit is best when picked at around 9 inches. Some liken the flavor to that of an apple, but I don’t think so. If you are concerned about indigestion, this is the cucumber to grow, and even if indigestion is not an issue, ‘Muncher’ is a great cucumber.

‘Lemon Cucumber’ was brought to the U.S. from India in the late 1800s, but was little known in this country except among certain Asian cultures, where they were an important part of curries, chutneys, etc.

The yellow, lemon-sized fruit is slightly sweeter than most cucumbers and has a mild citrus zing. It should be harvested when pale yellow. Fruit that has become golden in color will be bitter.

The plants are incredibly (I mean incredibly) prolific, so fruits must be harvested daily.

Lemon cucumbers are great in salads, but they also make terrific pickles. A family of four (who loves cucumbers and makes lots of pickles) should never, ever, plant more than four vines (if you are not going to make pickles, plant two vines).

The plants are not as susceptible to cucumber wilt and powdery mildew and produce over a long growing season—only a frost stops their production…sometimes.

• Spacemaster Bush

‘Spacemaster Bush’ is a very small, 36 in. plant that produces high yields of 8 in. fruit. It is adaptable to most climates. This cultivar was introduced in the late-20th century and immediately became very popular. The fruit matures in 60 days.

• English Seedless

The ‘English Seedless Slicing’ cucumber is a pre-1900 hybrid that produces fruit up to 2 ft. long, but fruit is best harvested when it is about 1 ft. long. The fruit is almost seedless and significantly less bitter than other cucumbers. These cucumbers mature in approximately 70 days.

• White Wonder

The ‘White Wonder’ cucumber is truly and totally creamy-white. It is both beautiful and exotic to behold in the garden. This cucumber was introduced before 1890 and was originally developed in western New York State. The 6-9 inch fruits tolerate heat very well. This cucumber can be used for pickling or slicing.

The crisp, creamy flesh is mild-tasting, and although it is not listed as a ‘burpless’ variety, ‘White Wonder’ is easier to digest. The plants are very prolific. This is a lovely, striking heirloom worthy of any salad, crudité plate, or pickle jar.

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Long Green

Introduced in 1842, ‘Long Green’ is an improved variety of a 1700s cuke known as ‘Long Green Turkey’. The plants are vigorous, productive, and reliable. The fruit is plump, 10–12 in., with tapered ends and few seeds. These cucumbers are good for pickling and slicing. The fruit matures in approximately 66 days.

Cucumber Growing Tips

Cucumbers will not tolerate any frost. Seeds can be direct-seeded once the soil temperature has warmed to 70 degrees. Seed should be planted ½ inch deep. Cucumbers do best when planted in hills, four plants to a hill, with hills 4–6 feet apart. If direct-seeding plant 8 seeds per hill and thin to 4 plants 12 inches apart. Cucumbers can be grown on fences or in containers with trellises.

Cucumbers require lots of water, but are very susceptible to root rot when young. It is best to water in the morning. Cucumbers do best in rich soil that is fertilized when the plants are still young and upright.

Once vines have reached 4 feet, the size of the vine can be controlled and fruiting encouraged by pinching off the fuzzy growing tip. It will not hurt the plant and will increase the number of fruits produced.

Cucumbers should be harvested as soon as they reach the recommended size. Giant cucumbers, white cucumbers that have yellowed, and green cucumbers that have turned pale will all have a bitter taste. The sweet taste of cucumbers occurs only when they have just ripened.

Cucumbers can be grown in containers—ideally, 14-inch diameter containers. File the pot with a soil mix that is 60% topsoil, 20% dehydrated manure, and 20% peat moss.

Plant four to six seeds in a 14-inch pot once the soil temperature has risen into the 70s. Plant the seeds 1 inch deep and water thoroughly. Once the seeds have sprouted, choose the three strongest seedlings and remove the rest. Fertilize every two weeks with a fertilizer that is strong in potassium and phosphorus and low in nitrogen. Put a 3–4 foot high trellis in the pot and allow the plants to crawl up the trellis. Stop fertilizing when the fruit has begun to mature. o

Barbara Melera is president of Harvesting History (www.harvesting-history.com), a company that sells horticultural and agricultural products, largely of the heirloom variety, along with garden tools and equipment.