the magazine for gardening enthusiasts in the Mid-Atlantic region
What’s Eating
My Crape Myrtle Common Grackle Coverings to Reduce Pest Problems
Museum of the Bible’s Rooftop Garden Classic Pimm’s Cup Cocktail
Great Gardening Books Reviewed
Holly Expert Sue Hunter
Gorgeous Gladioli
How to Make a Terrarium
Top 5 Heirloom Peppers for Containers
Need a Garden Club Speaker?
Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the DC region and ONLINE! Call 240.603.1461 or email KathyJentz@gmail.com for available dates, rates, and topics.
RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE
Barry Glick
Sunshine Farm and Gardens
696 Glicks Road
Renick, WV 24966, USA Email: barry@sunfarm.com www.sunfarm.com
www.greenspring.org
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Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/Mid-Atlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out on the 15th of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588-6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 10th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.
Green Spring Gardens
A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round goldmine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins. Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.
Send your questions to KathyJentz@gmail.com and use the subject line “Q&A.” Then
The annual Serviceberry Festival is one of the most popular events at Heartwood Nursery outside of York, PA. The event includes a selfguided tour of many features of the property and the opportunity to taste this delicious native fruit.
Spreading My Wings
I cannot recall a harder summer to garden in for our region. On top of record heat, we have seen so little rain that most of us are officially in a drought. Scorched lawns are everywhere. I have seen trees wilting and dead. The worst, though, is the lack of butterflies visiting my garden this year. Aside from several containers of flowering annuals, not much is in bloom. The Echinacea, Rudbeckia, and Monarda are putting up a few flowers, but are pretty sad. The Common Milkweed is growing okay, but is not covered in the usual balls of flowers. It is all very demoralizing. One highlight of the summer so far, though, has been marching with the Takoma Horticultural Club’s unit in the Takoma Park Independence Day Parade. We dressed as various pollinators and even won the “Best Costume” award. The cheering crowds were a big energy boost on that sweltering hot day and urged us on with cries of “Yay, flowers!” and “Go, gardeners!” Can you imagine if every time you went out to garden, you were greeted with such cheering?
If you are a brand-new gardener, don’t despair! This unusual summer weather pattern will pass and we will soon be looking at planting cool-season edibles and shrubs and perennials for fall color. There is always next season and next year to look forward to...
Sincerely,
Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, KathyJentz@gmail.com
Credits
Kathy
Jentz Editor/Publisher
Washington Gardener
826 Philadelphia Ave.
Silver Spring, MD 20910
Phone: 301-588-6894
kathyjentz@gmail.com www.washingtongardener.com
Ruth E. Thaler-Carter Proofreader
Esha Bhatti
Josh Panepento Interns
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Your editor in the Takoma Park Independence Day Parade. Photo by Alan Bowser.
Reader Contest
Win a choice of a unisex Audrey Hepburn garden quote T-shirt or tote bag from Michelle Bailey Art & Gifts in the July 2024 Washington Gardener Magazine Reader Contest! (The prize retail value is $35.00.)
Michelle Bailey Art & Gifts ((michellebaileyart.com) is a small, woman-owned Montgomery County, MD, business. The gift offerings include original art, prints, T-shirts, totes, mugs, and more with local and nature themes. The contest prize is for the “To plant a Garden is to believe in Tomorrow” Audrey Hepburn quote on a T-shirt or tote bag. The drawing of a child represents the past with water flowing from the frame down onto colorful flowers representing the future.
Reader & Listener Favorites
To enter to win the T-shirt or tote bag, send an email to WashingtonGardenerMagazine@ gmail.com by 5:00pm on Wednesday, July 31, with “Hepburn Quote” in the subject line and in the body of the email. Tell us what your favorite article was in this issue of Washington Gardener Magazine issue and why. Include your full name and address. The winner will be announced on August 1. o
Your Ad Here
Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/MidAtlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out in the middle of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588.6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 5th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.
Plant a Row for the Hungry (PAR) is an easy program to participate in and really does not take any extra resources than what you may have in your garden. In normal times, about 35 million people wonder where their next meal will come from. Most of these are children. That’s where PAR steps in.
PAR is such a simple program: It urges gardeners to Plant A Row (or a container) dedicated to feeding the hungry, and then take the harvest to someplace or someone that needs it. Once you have donated, send an email to KathyJentz@gmail.com with the total (in pounds and ounces) of what you gave. That is all there is to it. Easy. Effective. Adaptable and Helpful.
I always enjoy being introduced to new plants by Barry Glick. As I work to increase the proportion of native plants in my garden, Barry provides new-to-me ideas to consider, and he explains how and where the plants will grow best. Unfortunately, with a standard suburban yard, I often have less space for new plants than desire for new plants! Luckily, the column on unusual houseplants by Savannah Scollar provides new territory (indoors) for me to contemplate horticultural creativity. And I love having the new column dedicated to unwelcome weeds. Thank you for a great June 2024 issue.
~ John Rebstock, Cheverly, MD
My favorite article in the June 2024 issue is. without question, Rick Borchett’s article on Mugwort. His visually descriptive and humorous writing style captured my attention in the first few paragraphs as he deftly tied this June issue article to the Summer Solstice and the lushness of gardens, (and the proclivity of weeds) at this time of year. The article is well-researched, full of practical information and interesting facts, and is the perfect length! I look forward to reading more articles by Mr. Borchett in the future!
~ Linda Komes, Washington, DC
My favorite article in the June 2024 issue of Washington Gardener Magazine is, by far, the tips on extraordinary slicing/sandwich tomatoes! I’ve been growing more and more types of tomatoes in my garden (my standout thus far this season has been the Pink Berkeley, but we’ll see how it fares for the rest of the summer!).
I will definitely be buying Pineapple and Black Krim seeds this winter! Thank you.
~ Katy Kutzner, Hyattsville, MD
Congratulations on the GardenDC Podcast’s 200th episode. Fabulous!!! I love love love your podcast!
~ Martha Pindale, Monkton, MD
Remarkable quality of content (on the GardenDC Podcast) and so relaxing to listen to...
~ André Mélançon, France o
Sue Hunter, Owner of Heartwood Nursery
By Josh Panepento
Barely a month after hosting the annual Serviceberry Festival, Sue Hunter is still as busy as can be. Her name carries many titles, among them: president, owner, and professor.
When Hunter is not at her Heartwood Nursery (www.heartwoodnurseryinc. com) in York, PA, you can find her running the American Holly Society as president or teaching Plant Propagation and Production at the Community College of Baltimore County, MD.
“Since a very young age, I had always been interested in propagation and observations of plant cycles, and how can I get this plant to grow? How can
I get it to grow on? How can I be successful at it?” Hunter said. “And then eventually, well, maybe I just might be able to turn this into a career.”
She did exactly that, opening Heartwood Nursery in 1990 after seeing a need in the industry.
“I had the idea for my nursery back in the 1980s, when I realized that there were so many native species that weren’t being grown and offered to the nursery trade, let alone to the public,” Hunter said.
For the first eight years, Hunter worked multiple jobs until the nursery could make enough money on its own.
Over the years, Hunter has encoun-
tered more challenges. She dealt with the loss of family members in 2006, followed by the financial crisis in 2008.
“The crash of the housing market just wreaked havoc on the nursery industry, and nurseries were going out of business left and right,” Hunter said, “It was like, the nursery world and other industries were in a snow globe, and somebody had taken the snow globe and picked it up and shook it, and nobody knew where they were going to land, or if they were going to land at all.”
Heartwood Nursery remained in business—but was tested again recently during the COVID-19 pandemic.
“I did have to let employees go during that time. I was sad about that, but I had to do what I had to do and a lot of people had to do the same thing,” Hunter said, “I kept on my key employees, and we just kept propagating. We just kept doing what we always did. We
scaled down a little bit, but I was very grateful for the opportunity to catch up on things that had been set aside.”
Over a decade ago, Hunter began to focus on Ilex opaca, the Native American evergreen holly. This sparked an interest in hollies and she became a member of the Holly Society of America, a nonprofit educational organization, specifically for outreach to wholesale holly growers. Heartwood is now an Official Holly Arboreta and Test Center registered with the Holly Society of America.
Today, Heartwood Nursery is preserved through the Farm and Natural Lands Trust of York County (farmtrust. org). Display gardens are incorporated throughout the immediate sales area. Stormwater management areas have been created to reduce rainwater runoff and soil erosion. Pollinator meadows were planted to increase habitat for birds, pollinating insects, bats, and wildlife. Focal points within the reforested area include a mature grove of more than 125 Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) trees and collections of large, uncommon specimen trees and shrubs, most notably Hollies.
10 years ago, and I decided I wanted to bring that back,” Hunter said. “I wanted to focus on these little-known selections of American hollies. I wanted nursery growers specifically to have them because they play such an important role in our ecosystem.”
With two time-consuming positions, it is hard to imagine Hunter taking on another role, but she did anyway. A friend who served as Director of the American Landscape Institute at the Community College of Baltimore County gave her the idea of teaching Plant Propagation and Production.
“I was really excited when I was first approached by my friend Martha Pindale to teach there,” Hunter said, “I guess what really bothered me in the years prior to having that discussion with Martha was the fact that I didn’t feel younger people and students were getting the knowledge that they needed about how plants get started.”
As an adjunct faculty member in the horticulture department, Hunter hopes to educate students that there is more to know about plants. She believes just knowing how to grow them is not enough knowledge for a career.
The Urban Garden: 101 Ways to Grow Food and Beauty in the City is all about small-space gardening solutions! By
Kathy Jentz and Teresa Speight
Published by Cool Springs Press/Quarto Homes Order it today at: https://amzn.to/3yiLPKU
“I knew about the Holly Society before I started growing hollies. I’ve never thought of joining or anything like that,” Hunter said.
She worked her way up and held many positions, becoming a trustee before serving as chairperson of the advertising and promotional committee. A few years later, she was nominated for president.
After Hunter served her first two-year term, the executive board of directors passed an amendment to keep her as president for consecutive terms. Hunter believes she became president due to her fresh ideas.
“When looking through the archives of the Holly Society, where they store old plant lists and old nursery catalogs, back in the 1920s and ’30s, (I saw that) nurseries offered a lot more American Hollies than they did about
“They need to understand their life cycles, they need to understand their habitat, they need to understand their attributes—everything about the plant,” Hunter said.
As for what’s next, Hunter will continue in all three roles.
The nursery is open to visitors Monday to Saturday from 9am to 4pm and hosts special events year-round. In December, Hunter offers a wreathmaking class and the Holly Solstice Celebration. Mark your calendars for next year’s Serviceberry Festival on June 13–14, 2025. o
Josh Panepento is a rising senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This summer semester, he is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine
GardenDC Podcast
The GardenDC podcast is all about gardening in the greater Washington, DC, and Mid-Atlantic area. The program is hosted by Kathy Jentz, editor of Washington Gardener Magazine, and features guest experts in local and national horticulture. The latest episodes include interviews with experts on Watering Tips and Growing Herbs in Shade.
You can listen online at https:// washingtongardener.blogspot.com/ or on Spotify, Apple, etc. o
Yarrow
By Kathy Jentz
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is a perennial plant that is used in pollinator gardens, as a groundcover, and in meadows and herb gardens.
It is native to North America, Asia, and Europe. It is hardy to USDA Zones 3 to 9.
The leaves are soft and have a fern-like appearance. The flowers are available in a range of colors including white, yellow, pink, red, or peachy tones. It attracts bees and butterflies to your garden.
Yarrow likes full sun, heat, and good drainage. Plant it in average to poor soils. If given rich soils or fertilizers, it grows leggy and flops over.
The plant is drought-tolerant and deer-resistant.
It makes an excellent cut flower and also dries easily for preservation.
Deadhead the first flush of blooms when they start to fade, to encourage a second round of blooms later in the summer.
It is used as a healing herb for wounds and has been used for centuries to brew beer and tea.
Yarrow is easy to propagate by digging and dividing a section and then replanting the clumps. It can also selfsow.
Warning: This plant can be an aggressive spreader.o
Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener
A Summertime Classic: The Pimm’s Cup
By Kathy Jentz
The classic British summer cocktail, the Pimm’s Cup, is light and refreshing. It is the official unofficial drink of Wimbledon and enjoyed by many at the Chelsea Garden Show.
The essential ingredient of this libation is Pimm’s No. 1. Nothing else will do. It is a gin-based liqueur that was invented by its namesake, James Pimm, at his family’s London oyster house in the mid-1800s. It was created from a mixture of citrus peels and herbs as a digestive aid. Pimm’s No. 1 has been bottled and sold since 1859. You can find it at your local liquor store in the botanical gin aisle.
Ingredients
1 3/4 oz. Pimm’s No. 1
5 oz. lemonade*
Mint**
Cucumber slices
Orange slices**
Strawberries**
Ice
*See variations note
**Optional; see garnishes note.
Directions
In a tall glass, add ice. Pile in all the garnishes you want (see garnishes note). Pour in Pimm’s No. 1 and lemonade. Stir. Serve immediately.
Variations
The “lemonade” portion of this drink has been long debated. You can certainly make your own from freshsqueezed lemons and simple syrup, but most Pimm’s fans have a favorite lemonade or lemon soda brand, such as San Pellegrino Limonata, that they swear by. Sprite or 7Up are other popular choices. Some even choose ginger ale or ginger beer instead of the classic lemonade.
In my opinion, you cannot go wrong and it is fun to try a different variation each time you make it until you find that perfect-for-you concoction.
Ice
I froze borage flowers in ice cubes to flavor the drink shown below. They give it an extra cucumber flavor, but do not look as a attractive as I’d hoped. I might sprinkle fresh borage flowers on the drink instead next time. A better idea for your ice cubes is frozen cucumber juice or even frozen lemonade, perhaps with a curl of lemon peel in each cube.
Garnishes
Cucumber slices are a must. A sprig of mint is nice, too. You can substitute basil or any other leafy herb you like for the mint. You may also wish to add in slices of any citrus fruit you have on hand. Strawberries are a pretty addition as well. o
Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener and is collecting floral-based cocktail recipes.
Pimm’s advises: “Best make a jugful; you never know who’ll turn up at the sound of the ice tray leaving your freezer.”
Summer Atmosphere
with Gorgeous Gladioli Gladioli symbolize pride, strength, and victory. It is best to buy and plant your bulbs in the spring. They will start flowering before the end of the current summer and, with their explosion of colors, will bring summer vibes to your garden perennially afterwards
Gladiolus gets its name from its sword-shaped leaves. This Latin name is the diminutive of “gladius” meaning sword. The flower is also called sword lily.
The flowers of gladioli grow on both sides of the stems. They come in a wide variety of colors: white, cream, red, yellow, pink, blue, purple, orange, and lime green. The color palette is varied. There are even some with multiple colors per flower. The flowers are chock-full of pollen and nectar. You can enjoy them from July to October.
Most of our garden gladioli are originally from South Africa. New varieties pop up regularly. With hundreds of varieties, the large-flowered group is the biggest.
Some will actually grow taller than a meter. The Abyssinian gladiolus (Gladiolus callianthus ‘Murielae’, synonym: Acidanthera murielae) is an unusual large-flowered variety, with white, star-shaped flowers and burgundy centers. They also provide a wonderful fragrance.
Gladiolus nanus is an example from the small-flowered group. It is also called dwarf gladiolus.
Step-by-step gladioli growing tips:
• Once the risk of night frost has passed, you can get started.
• Choose a spot with plenty of sunshine and well-drained soil; gladioli do not like wet feet. If necessary, you can make a small mound or raised bed and plant the tubers in it. Loosen the soil at the bottom and all around beforehand, though.
• For best results, add compost or organic fertilizer.
• Plant the tubers about 5 inches apart and 4 inches deep with the growing tip or “nose” facing up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp it down lightly.
• Water the tubers after planting, then look forward to the results.
• Once the plants emerge, you can
place supports by them for the taller stems, so the plants won’t blow over.
• Water regularly during periods of drought in the growing season.
• As soon as they bloom, get into the summer mood and enjoy!
You can plant gladioli in groups or position individual gladioli among other plants in the border. You can scatter the tubers in the garden and plant them wherever they end up, for a natural look.
Gladioli also look great in pots. The lower-growing varieties are particularly suitable for this purpose.
If you are aiming for a longer flowering period, plant some tubers in a staggered manner (say, every other week).
Curious to find out more? You can find more inspiration and information about flower bulbs at www.flowerbulbs. com. o
USBG Summer Exhibit Spotlights Local Urban Garden Organizations
In a special outdoor summer exhibit, the U.S. Botanic Garden, is spotlighting four local organizations that are enriching their communities through plants, urban agriculture, and growing food. From June to October 2024, “Cultivate: Growing Food in Urban Gardens” shares the stories of a diverse tapestry of urban agriculture through local gardens and greenspaces supported by Washington, DC, community groups in special outdoor installations on the USBG Terrace.
Explore the organizations’ significance through the lenses of culture, history, and workforce development. Displays feature marquee visuals such as a 30foot replica of the future 11th Street Bridge Park, a recreation of the D.C. stream and park that inspired Marvin Gaye’s music, a function-meets-art colorful installation of gardening tools and solar dehydrator, and vibrant garden art created by local children, with gardenscapes and food plants throughout. Each organization will lead on-site programs throughout the summer.
The four organizations are:
• City Blossoms creates opportunities for children and youth in DC to access nature in and out of school and engage with environmental education, food, culture, entrepreneurship, community, and art using green spaces.
• Building Bridges Across the River provides residents east of the Anacostia River with programs in arts, culture, education, health, and more. They manage greenspaces such as Building Bridges Farms—urban farms that grow and distribute organic produce to help address food injustice—and the future 11th Street Bridge Park.
• The Green Scheme unites Black urban growers and environmentalists, forging connections and making strides toward a healthier, more sustainable community.
• Washington Parks & People revitalizes historically underserved areas through outdoor initiatives, bringing positive change to the neighborhood by rejuvenating DC’s outdoor spaces with arts, play, resilience, and wonder, uniting people with nature. o
Silvery-white foliage with wavy leaf edges provides a welcome textural element. This distinctive foliage item is well-suited to border plantings and mixed containers. Offers better winter-hardiness than the competition.
• Idea & Tips : Performs best in full sun in dry, well-drained soils. Easy to grow and drought-tolerant once established.
• Retailers Choice Award
This is a 2024 introduction. For more information, go to https:// www.darwinperennials.com/ o
Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts
• Watering Tips
• Baby Gherkins
• Purple Peppers
• GardenDC Embroidered Patches
See more Washington Gardener blog posts at WashingtonGardener.blogspot.com o
July–August Garden To-Do List
• The heat of summer is here. Time to start doing chores during early morning or evening. Take a break during the hottest parts of the day.
• Prune Wisteria.
• If your pond water gets low from prolonged drought, top it off with tap water and add a dechlorinator according to package instructions.
• Cut back spent stalks on common daylilies.
• Pinch back any annuals that may be growing leggy.
• Divide and cut back Bearded Iris.
• Check your pond pump for any debris—clean it out every few weeks.
• Weed.
• Cut off any yellowed foliage at the bottom of tomato plants.
• Stake and tie up any tall-growing perennials, such as phlox or delphiniums.
• Wash out birdbaths weekly with diluted bleach solution.
• Water thoroughly, especially if you receive no rain for more than seven days.
• Take cuttings from azaleas, boxwoods, and camellias to start new plants.
• Check your local garden center for mid-summer bargains.
• Hand-pick Japanese Beetles or shake them off over a bucket of dishwater. Early morning is a good time to catch them, while they are still drowsy.
• Re-pot the houseplants you’ve moved outdoors for the summer.
• Pick blueberries at a local pick-your-own farm or visit a local farmer’s market.
• Pinch back any straying strawberry runners.
• Deadhead perennials for a second flush of blooms later this summer.
• Thin out small trees and cut off any suckering branches growing from the bottom below the root flare.
• Inspect your garden for powdery mildew. If seen, prune back perennials to create needed circulation.
• Annuals are now hitting their peak. Keep them well-watered and add a little liquid fertilizer every few weeks to keep them going through September.
• Check your plants at night with a flashlight for any night-feeding insects like slugs.
• If you find slug damage, set out beer traps or Sluggo pellets.
• Pinch back mums so they grow bushier and won’t flower until autumn.
• Hold off on planting new trees and shrubs until the summer heat has passed.
• Caulk and seal your outside walls to prevent insect entry into your home.
• Harvest regularly from your vegetable garden to prevent rot and waste.
• Put up a hammock or garden bench for enjoying your views.
• Turn compost pile.
• Check out gardening books from your local library to read on vacation.
• Check for any stagnant-water mosquito breeding grounds, especially your gutters. Dump out any water that sits stagnant for more than three days.
• Add Mosquito Dunks to any standing water in your yard, such as birdbaths, downspouts, plant saucers, and gutters.
• Gather roses to enjoy indoors—be sure to make the cut just above a five-leaf unit.
• Harvest onions when tops die back.
• Sow seeds of fall crops such as broccoli, turnips, cauliflower, etc., in late July. o
TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS
Classes, Events, and Plant Shows/Sales
• Sunday, July 21, 10am–12pm Garlic Festival
Held at the Takoma Park Farmers Market in Takoma Park, MD. Just-harvested and cured garlic is the star of the market and available for sale at vendor stands. It’s the perfect match to all of the market’s fresh seasonal produce. The event includes special guests Tony “The Garlic Guru” Sarmiento, who is a CKC Board Member, and Kathy Jentz, GardenDC Podcast host and Washington Gardener Magazine editor. Members of the Takoma Horticultural Club will be on hand with gardening tips for the home gardener. Chef Peter Andros of Gourmet and Gourmand serves up some garlic-based tastes with recipes to share. Free and open to all.
• July 19 through July 21
2024 Kenilworth Annual Lotus & Water Lily Festival
Enjoy Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens in Washington, DC, with daily ranger-led talks, viewing of the lotus and waterlily blooms, crafting, and scavenger hunts. See more at https://kenaqgardens. org/.
• Saturday, July 27, and Sunday, July 28
Annual Farm Tour & Harvest Sale
This is a self-guided tour of several farms in Montgomery County, MD. The Agriculture Reserve or “Ag Reserve” is considered one of the best examples of land conservation policies in the country. The Agricultural Reserve encompasses 93,000 acres—almost a third of the county’s land resources. This year, the Montgomery County Office of Agriculture has partnered with 24 farms, orchards, and vineyards. See https://visitmontgomery.com/blog/seedo/montgomery-county-farm-tour/.
• Sunday, August 4, 2–3:30pm
Opening Reception for Washington Gardener Garden Photo Show
Washington Gardener invites you to the opening reception of our annual garden photo show at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens in Vienna, VA. Free.
• Saturday, August 10, 10am
Integrated Pest Management
This is part of the Baltimore County Master Gardeners’ 2024 Summer Series in the Garden. The series of seminars is held in the Demonstration Gardens at the Center for Maryland Agriculture and Farm Park at 1114 Shawan Road, Cockeysville, MD. Sessions will be held in light rain or sunshine. In the event of heavy rain or thunderstorms, sessions will be rescheduled. See more at: https://extension.umd. edu/locations/baltimore-county/homegardening-master-gardeners/.
• Saturday, August 10, 10am and 1pm Onsite Floral Design: From the Garden to Your Vase
The cutting garden in August is lush with blooms. A variety of colors and textures fill the garden beds. Dahlias, zinnias, celosia, sunflowers, gomphrena, salvia, and herbs are just some of the delights to select for your floral creations. In this workshop, participants will create a rustic and casual floral design using blooms from local flower farms in the Washington, DC, region. All materials are included. Fee: $75. Held at Hillwood Estate, Museum, and Gardens. Register at https://hillwoodmuseum.org/.
Looking Ahead
• Saturday, August 17, 10am–12pm
Tomato Taste
Held at the Silver Spring Farmers Market in Silver Spring, MD.
• Saturday, September 7
DC State Fair
Online contest entry is now open. Held at Franklin Park in downtown Washington, DC. See dcstatefair.org.
• Sunday, September 8, 2–3pm
Kathy Jentz “Groundcover Revolution” Talk & Book Signing
Held at Patuxent Nursery, 2410 North Crain Hwy, Bowie, MD. Fee: Free or $21.19 (if purchasing book in advance). Register at https://patuxentnursery. com/event/kathy-jentz-groundcoverrevolution-talk-book-signing/#tribe-tickets__tickets-form
Event Listing Updates
See updated event listings on the Washington Gardener discussion list. Join by emailing WashingtonGardenersubscribe@googlegroups.com
How to Submit Events
To submit an event for this listing, email washingtongardenermagazine@gmail. com with “Event” in the subject line. Our next deadline is August 5 for the August 2024 issue, for events taking place after August 15, 2024. o
We Won a Horti Award!
We received great news on July 1 that GardenDC won the first-ever BEST PODCAST Horti Award from GardenComm! Thanks to all who voted for GardenDC and congratulations to all the other Horti Award winners, and to the Laurel Award silver medal winners. More at: https://washingtongardener. blogspot.com/2024/07/we-won-horti. html.
How to Make a Terrarium
Text and photos by Savannah Scollar
Terrariums are my jam! Inside a little glass jar or a plastic salad container, a tiny garden can thrive—or not. It totally drives me crazy seeing how misleading some terrarium workshops and instructions can be. Let’s set the record straight and get things growing for real.
First things first: You’ll want a container that is easy to reach into. A wide or shallow base with a wide lid is much easier to work with than a deeper jar, or even worse, a narrow-necked bottle. For an elegant look, head to the thrift store and pick out a glass bowl and a cake dome. You will not need holes for airflow. The plants will do just fine, even if the container is airtight.
Next, you’ll need some soil, of course. That’s right—no rocks, sand, or moss underneath. Drainage layers create what I refer to as the “swimming pool of doom,” quickly filling with algae and becoming a hazard for your plants’ roots. Fill the entire bottom of your terrarium with nutritious, chunky houseplant soil instead. Something with lots of coconut shell chunks or bark will be wonderful.
I mix 8 scoops of coconut shell chunks, 4 scoops of coconut coir, and 2 scoops of compost. Coconut shell chunks can be shredded by hand. At their largest, these chunks should be the size of a jelly bean. With this recipe, the amount of soil you use is likely to end up matching the size that your plants reach. If you want your plants to
stay small, keep the soil shallow. If you want them big, make a thicker layer. Now, for the plants themselves: What can you use? Pretty much anything, but some are more cooperative than others. Nerve plants can have a short section pinched off and placed in the terrarium. Eventually, that section will grow roots and become a plant of its own. Ferns can be fussy terrarium plants, but they sure are pretty. Know that they’ll probably need some pruning as they get established. Peperomias and small-leaved begonias are fantastic for terrariums as long as you’re very gentle on the water. String of Turtles? The perfect candidate! String of Frogs? Stunning! Callisia? Count me in! There’s a huge variety to choose from. Pre-potted plants will probably need a good amount of their roots and soil removed to fit properly. Remove any loose soil first, then up to a third of the roots if you still need something smaller. Bury the roots in the new soil and get them cozy. Your plants can be as crowded or spaced apart as you’d like. The more room they have, the more they’ll grow. The more squished they are, the more they’ll stay the same. Soil should not be wet. That’s probably the most important thing. It should be very slightly moist, just enough to make it “not dry.” A spray bottle can help you achieve this. I usually moisten the soil at the very end of creating the terrarium contents. That way, I can get
some dirt off of the leaves of my plants as a bonus.
To decorate your terrarium, add some moss from outside. This moss will probably contain a few springtails and soil mites that’ll help your ecosystem thrive. The bugs are your friends. Remember, when taking moss or rocks from outside, to take a small amount from an area that has plenty. Never take away the majority of a moss patch, unless it’s in your own yard.
Do not use moss from a craft store. Trust me. It’s dead and dyed, and will probably go moldy. It won’t grow for you at all.
Now that the terrarium is all set up, let’s get into maintenance. Your terrarium should live in low light, a few feet away from a window or grow light. It should never be in an area that gets particularly hot or cold. Don’t accidentally cook your plants.
Your terrarium will only need to be watered if there’s gap in the lid or your plants have absorbed some of the water and grown. Be gentle. Don’t make it wet, just don’t let it completely dry out, either. Airtight terrariums can go months without watering. For those, I say check them and spray once per season.
Algae is a common terrarium issue and something I’m experimenting with remedying. If it appears, my current solution is to replace the soil and wipe down the glass with a microfiber cloth. I want to try some aquarium algae removal drops out and see how those work, too.
If this all sounds like a little much to do on your own, you’re looking to book a terrarium party, or if you’ve already got a terrarium and need some help fixing it up, I can’t resist giving a sprinkle of self-promotion. Check out my shop, Easy Little Plants in Olney, MD, for some terrarium fun. We’ve got a selection of sparkly decorations and little cat figurines, too. o
Savannah Scollar opened Easy Little Plants in July 2023 at age 21. It’s a houseplant shop in Olney, MD. She loves doing research, teaching private workshops, decorating with houseplants, and arranging adorable terrariums. Contact her through her website: easylittleplants.com.
Museum of the Bible’s Rooftop Garden
By Hannah Zozobrado
In downtown Washington, DC, at the corner of 4th and D Streets SW, is a building with scripture written in gold across its entrance. By the entrance is a security checkpoint, ensuring the safety of a space that hosts religious statues and art. Visitors stroll across its shiny floors and take the elevator up to marvel at the beauty of the rooftop garden—the flowers bloom along the edges of the patio, and water trickles down the glass on the right-side wall. This building is the Museum of the Bible, and its rooftop garden is a place inhabited by intentional flora reminiscent of the Bible.
“We have lots of plants, and to make it more unique to us, we will [display] the name of the plant and a biblical quote under it…or something that relates to growth and spring and life,” said Communications Coordinator Grace Curl.
Curl has worked at the Museum of the Bible for a little over a year. From her time there, she has found that visitors enjoy taking in the picturesque scenery of the rooftop garden, often while having a meal from the restaurant that is conveniently located right by the garden entrance. The patio has a number of tables and chairs for
groups of people to collectively bask in its charm.
Beyond being a space for people to have lunch, the garden and the adjacent lounge room host the occasional gathering, such as birthday parties, upon request. To book the space, a reservation must be made at least three months beforehand.
Staff at the Museum of the Bible often dedicate one day each year to replant and restore the garden’s flowers. Curl said that the choice in greenery usually stays the same during the annual refresh. The space also undergoes frequent maintenance.
“When they were picked originally, they were picked for a reason, and a lot of thought went into what we were going to plant,” Curl said.
Shelley Cramm, author of My Father is the Gardener, held her book signing at the museum on the day of my visit to the museum’s rooftop garden.
“My passion is to unlock and showcase all the gardening that is in the Bible and to connect us to that agelessness,” Cramm said. “I think it gives us a sense of permanence to know that gardening has been around that long.”
Although she lives in Texas, she visits the garden as often as she can; Cramm appreciates that the garden is the architect’s effort to relay the Biblical garden of Eden.
“That wall that has the water coming down is to represent the River of Life in that small space…and the big tree in the middle is to represent the Tree of Life,” Cramm said.
Cramm said those who visit the Museum of the Bible’s garden would see the intersection between faith and gardening.
“It is actually a very profound intersection. I would say that everything about God’s Kingdom is imprinted on the plant kingdom,” Cramm said. “The way things grow, the way you take care of them and cultivate them, the way you have to prune sometimes and pull weeds—all of those are metaphors for how to be close to God…and cultivate a fruitful life.” o
Hannah Zozobrado is a College of Journalism graduate at the University of Maryland This past spring semester, she was an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine
Boost Your Garden’s Harvest While Reducing Pest Problems
By Melinda Myers
Boost this year’s harvest and reduce pest problems with less effort, while being kind to the environment. Employ row covers, chicken wire cloches, and crop cages to prevent damage without the aid of chemicals.
Floating row covers of spun-bonded or woven materials let air, light, and water through to the covered plantings. The warm air that is captured protects the plantings from frosty temperatures. The coverings also prevent birds from dining on newly planted seeds and eliminate damage by certain insects like flea beetles, onion maggots, seed corn maggots, and leafhoppers that may infect lettuce, celery, and carrots with aster yellows disease.
Cover susceptible seeds and transplants at planting to prevent the insects from reaching the plants. Insects like flea beetles and onion and seed corn maggots overwinter as adults in the soil near the previous season’s planting. Move susceptible plants to a different part of the garden to avoid trapping the insects under the row cover with their favorite food source.
Double the benefit with less effort by planting short-season radishes with long-season cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. Harvest the radishes as the larger vegetable plants need the space. This will provide two harvests from one row. The row cover eliminates problems with root maggots on radishes, cabbage worms on cole crops, and rabbits from dining on them all.
Basil and beans are favorites of Japanese beetles. Cover these at planting and, since they do not need pollination to enjoy the harvest, leave the fabric in place throughout the season. Just lift to harvest and replace.
Cover squash at planting to prevent birds from dining on newly planted seeds and reduce the risk of squash vine borer and squash bugs. The fabric prevents these insects from accessing
the plants. Remove the covers when flowering begins to allow pollinators access to the blossoms. Don’t use row covers when planting squash in the same location as the previous year. Since squash vine borer insects will overwinter in the soil near the squash plants, the row cover will trap the insects and provide easy access to the plants. Continue to monitor for these pests throughout the remainder of the season.
Loosely drape the row cover fabric over the planting and secure the edges with boards, pipes, stones, or landscape pins. Commercial setups like the 3-Season Plant Protection Tent include a framework and fabric covers, making it easy for gardeners to cover and access the plantings. Systems like this include two covers; one to protect plants from cold and a second, lighterweight fabric for preventing insect damage during the warmer growing season. Reuse the fabrics as long as they remain intact.
Self-supporting mesh enclosures like Pest Control Pop-Ups (gardeners.com)
are another option for protecting plantings from insects, birds, and animals. Look for products like this that are simple to install and fold flat for easy storage when not in use. Finer mesh products keep out insect pests while larger mesh wire covers protect plantings from birds and animals, including hungry squirrels dining on greens and ripe tomatoes. Various sizes and designs provide coverage for individual plants, raised beds, and berry bushes. Make this the year to be proactive in preventing and minimizing pest damage throughout the season without the use of chemicals. Your efforts will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest. o
Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated “Melinda’s Garden Moment” TV and radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Gardener’s Supply for her expertise to write this article Her website is www. MelindaMyers.com.
Plant protection tents keep crops from being harmed by cold and wind, animals, and insect pests. Photo courtesy of Gardener’s Supply Company/gardeners.com.
Top 5 Heirloom Hot Peppers that Flourish in Containers
Text and photos by Barbara Melera
Columbus named the peppers he saw growing in the West Indies, pimiento, because he thought they were the pimienta—spice pepper—grown in the East Indies. He was painfully surprised to find out that the West Indian peppers were incredibly hot. On his several voyages to the New World, Columbus collected many varieties of hot and sweet pepper, and brought them back to Spain. The peppers immediately gained popularity and spread to Africa, India, and the Far East before they became popular in the rest of Europe and North America.
In Central and South America, peppers are perennial plants that can grow 4 to 6 feet in height, but in North America, peppers are grown as annuals because they are very sensitive to frost.
As many of you know, I think tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants grow best in containers. If you are going to grow peppers in containers, there are a few rules you should follow. Peppers should be grown in pots that are at least 14 inches in diameter and 14–16 inches deep: one plant per container.
Peppers grown in containers often require staking, so plant the stake when you plant the seedling. Container-grown peppers must be fertilized at least every two weeks with full-strength fertilizer that is rich in phosphorus. Tomato plant food does a good job. Plants that are not fed in this way will have limited fruiting.
Pepper plants should be started indoors, 6–8 weeks before the last frost date. Because peppers germinate slowly, pepper plants should be started with bottom heat applied to the flats. The bottom heat speeds up germination and seems to produce stronger seedlings. After one week of hardening off, plants should be transplanted to the garden or a container after all danger of frost has passed.
When transplanting, add a ¼ cup bone meal to the soil in the container. If the soil is too rich or too much nitrogen fertilizer has been added to the soil, the plant will produce lush green leaves but few peppers. As plants begin to blossom, dissolve a spoonful of Epsom salts in a spray bottle full of water and spray the leaves. The magnesium in the Epsom salts encourages early and prolific fruit set.
Peppers should be harvested when they change color from green to red, yellow, orange, purple, or brown. Once the color change occurs, sweet peppers become sweeter and hot peppers become hotter. The more you pick peppers, the more they will produce.
Poblano
If you could only choose one hot pepper to grow in your garden, my suggestion would be to choose the poblano.
Poblanos are a relatively mild, large chile pepper that is believed to be indigenous to the Puebla, Mexico region—a
part of Mexico that is located in the southeastern area of the country, near, but not on, the coast of the Gulf of Mexico.
The poblano fruit is about 3–4 inches wide and 5–6 inches long. The immature fruit is bright green, which turns to scarlet and finishes as a deep dark red. The red is so dark that, at times, it appears black.
The fruit can be eaten at all stages of its development. The green fruit has the mildest heat, and this heat intensifies as the fruit turns to red and then deep red.
The name poblano refers to the fresh fruit. Once the pepper has been dried, it is called an ancho chile. The word ancho means wide and refers to the unusual width of the poblano.
Like some other hot peppers, the heat of individual fruit from the same plant can vary dramatically. It is not clear why this is the case. Poblanos can be eaten fresh, cooked or dried. They are especially good when stuffed and baked, and are the pepper of choice when creating chile rellenos.
Hungarian Yellow Wax Hot
Commonly known as the Hot Banana Pepper, this is a Hungarian heirloom that was originally indigenous to Central America. The 4–6 inch fruit ripen from green to yellow to orange and finally to red. For reasons I don’t know, these peppers are usually harvested when they are yellow.
The 30-inch-tall plants produce a profusion of mildly hot, banana-shaped peppers. This pepper is outstanding for three reasons: It does well in cool, short season climates. It is an extremely early producer; often when purchasing these plants in the spring, you will find a pepper already started on the seedling. It is also incredibly prolific—a single plant often produces 30+ fruit.
Jalapeno
Jalapenos are named after the Mexican city of Xalapa.Maybe the most popular hot pepper grown, the 30-inch plants produce a profusion of 3–4 in. fruit that ripen to red.
Jalapenos have been cultivated for thousands of years by the Aztecs and other native Central American peoples. They were discovered by the Spanish explorers and brought back to Europe in the 1500s. Spanish Codices of the mid-16th century describe roasted jalapenos and mole (a sauce made from jalapenos) being sold in Mexican marketplaces.
One interesting botanical fact about jalapenos is that from their genetics, it has been determined that they are not related to other peppers.
Red Cherry Hot
The Red Cherry Hot Pepper is an ancient variety that is believed to be native to Mexico and Central plus South America. From these areas, it made its way to the Caribbean and then to Spain. The first written description occurred in 1586. In 1759, the first written description of the pepper occurred in an English text.
Two factors make this pepper outstanding. The first is its very thick flesh. The Red Cherry Hot Pepper is only mildly hot, and when you bite into it, you experience a burst of sweetness before
the heat kicks in. It is a great eating experience. The second is its abundant fruit production—a single plant will easily produce 30–50 fruit in a season.
Unlike the “mini peppers” available today, this pepper is small but large enough to easily stuff for hors d’oeuvres or light eating. It also makes delicious pickles.
Black Pearl
I am not sure that I have saved the best for last, because in this article, we have discussed some truly great peppers, but I have saved the most extraordinary for last.
The Black Pearl hot pepper is truly a garden standout. It is not an heirloom; it is a relatively new variety that won the All-America Selections in 2006. It is not GMO or GE, and it was developed using good old-fashioned breeding techniques.
The pepper is pretty hot, but not habanero hot. It makes great pickled hot peppers, but the most extraordinary factor about this plant is its inky black leaves. In full sun, this plant is totally black. The peppers begin as an iridescent purple, then change to black and finally ripen into striking, blazing, red balls. The contrast of the scarlet “pearls” against the deep black plant is stunning—take-your-breath-away stunning.
The other extraordinary factor about this plant is that it is a little promiscuous! If you plant it next to any other
pepper and then save the seeds from the other peppers, the fruit from the seeds of the other peppers the following year will all be black. If you plant tabascos next to this one, you will have black tabascos. If you plant jalapenos, you will have black jalapenos. If you plant cayenne, you will have black cayenne. This is one little plant that makes its presence known.
Black Pearl is the quintessential edible ornamental. If you could choose only one new plant to try in the next growing season, even if you do not eat hot peppers, try Miss Black Pearl. It will be an adventure meeting her and an experience I guarantee you will never forget. o
Barbara Melera is president of Harvesting History (www.harvesting-history.com), a company that sells horticultural and agricultural products, largely of the heirloom variety, along with garden tools and equipment.
GROUNDCOVER REVOLUTION IS OUT NOW!
By Kathy Jentz
Published by Cool Springs Press Order it today at: https://amzn.to/3IlYHYL
“Groundcover Revolution is must-have book for anyone who is interested in having less lawn, fewer weeds, and reduced mulching. The properties charts will save the reader time and money, the pictures provide inspiration, while the detailed plant portraits give the focused information needed for creating beautiful, functional landscapes.”
―C.L. Fornari, GardenLady.com
What’s Eating My Crape Myrtle?
By Carol Allen
Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) hybrids, are a ubiquitous tree of the South and Mid-Atlantic. The species was introduced to North America from Asia in 1790 by French botanist, Andre Michaux. Since that time, it has become synonymous with the southern United States. It is ideally suited for landscape sites that are hot and seems to do well in tolerating sites with reflected heat and light. It is resistant to air pollution and deer, and once established, is drought-tolerant.
Cultivars come in a variety of colors and sizes from single-stem trees to multi-stemmed bushes. It has been used widely in both residential landscapes and as a street tree.
A common disease issue is powdery mildew.
Twenty-four resistant cultivars were bred at the U. S. National Arboretum by the late Dr. Donald Egolf and were released in 1966. If you are new to crape myrtles, these are the cultivars to get. The National Arboretum has a list of cultivar names at: https://www. usna.usda.gov/science/icra/lagerstroemia/.
Crape myrtles have their own aphid species (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani (Kirkaldy)) that is also native to Asia. These aphids feed only on crape myrtles and will not move to other plants
in the landscape. Although numbers can get high and the associated sooty mold problematic, native predators usually do a good job of controlling them. Chemical intervention is seldom warranted. There is a direct correlation between the heavy pruning, or topping, of crape myrtles and high populations of crape myrtle aphids. Such severe pruning is detrimental to the tree’s health, speeding the tree into decline. This practice is a reliable income stream for landscape companies but is not recommended by certified professional arborists.
Although crape myrtles are not native, the University of Florida has some interesting observations about some of the ecoservices that they bring to the landscape. They go as far as to say that “crape myrtle is probably the most important woody landscape plant in the southeastern U.S. for augmenting and sustaining many beneficial insects.” Read that report at: https:// ipm.ifas.ufl.edu/resources/extension_ resources/newsletter/v1n1_myrtle. shtml.
As often happens, when a good plant is widely used, a concentration of one species invites new pests. Crape myrtle bark scale, originally from Asia, first appeared in Texas in 2004. It has been slowing making its way through the
south since then. In the DC metro area, it has become very widespread in the last several years.
Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae is a non-native invasive species. It can look kind of like a small mealybug because it is covered with a heavy, waxy coating. It sucks the sap of the crape myrtle and can form large patches of insects. It might first congregate around old pruning wounds and in the crevices of branches. It excretes a sugary substance called honeydew and sooty mold is often associated with a heavy infestation.
The scale insects can be removed with a stream of water and a soft brush. For hard to reach areas, a spray of horticultural oil or the insect growth regulator Talus* or Distance,* is most effective at egg hatch. The eggs are held under the female covers and hatching of the nymphs is at about 638-degree days. In our area, that can be about mid-May. There are several generations possible in our region. Research is ongoing to determine when these successive generations will appear.
If you have crape myrtles in your landscape, monitor for crape myrtle scale and crape myrtle aphids. Both pests can be diminished by natural predators, so a “soft” approach is recommended. Use mechanical removal and oil sprays to control the populations.* Do not top or heavily prune your crape myrtles and do not over-fertilize. Be especially alert for the larvae of the Hyperaspis lady beetle. They look like large mealybugs slowly making their way over the aphids and scales, slurping them up as they go. Do not squash these beneficial insects. o
Carol Allen describes herself as a committable plant-a-holic. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the horticulture industry, with a special interest in plant pests and diseases; is a Licensed Pesticide Applicator in the state of Maryland; and is an ISACertified Arborist. She can be contacted at carolallen@erols.com.
*Read the label and follow all directions.
Growing Bulbs in the Natural Garden: Innovative Techniques for Combining Bulbs and Perennials in Every Season
Author: Jacqueline van der Kloet
Publisher: Timber Press
List Price: $35.00
Order Links: https://amzn.to/3LsRoPz and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781643264028
Reviewer: Josh Panepento
The cover of Jacqueline van der Kloet’s book Growing Bulbs in the Natural Garden says it contains “innovative techniques for combining bulbs and perennials in every season.” However, this book has much more than a list of techniques.
The author uses her experience as a garden designer in North America, Europe, and Asia to create an intriguing mix of personal stories, pictures, and how-to guides.
Kloet splits the book into five sections, covering bulbs’ history and background, how to start growing, where you can grow bulbs, examples of bulbs from around the world, and the author’s favorites.
The first section includes information about the history of bulbs, what tools you need, and identifying them by color. There are many charts throughout this section that make the information easier to read and comprehend.
Kloet’s experience as a garden designer can be seen in the book. Each page has a visually appealing layout— every other page throughout the book contains a photo. Kloet took many of the photos.
Her experience is also seen through diagrams throughout the book that show how to arrange your garden by color to make it more visually appealing. This information could only be found by consulting a garden designer. Although the “basics” section appears reserved for beginners, the final 10 pages are aimed at advanced gardeners. As Kloet describes it, some bulbs are tougher to grow and need a trained gardener.
The “bulbs everywhere” section breaks down where it is best to grow each different type of bulb. This is great if you are looking for inspiration or just want to know more about how different environments affect the bulbs.
This book can be read away from the garden, especially “the basics” and “designing with bulbs around the world” sections. The latter contains a trove of information about other cultures.
While it seems like this information can be researched online, Kloet based this section on her personal experiences in these countries. There is a mix of personal stories and information that make this part a must-read.
Learning about Kloet’s favorite bulbs is the ideal finish—although, this section could be shortened. It is 35 pages with many containing two plants, leaving the reader thinking, “How many favorites can you have?”
This section is still worth reading, I enjoy that it is broken up into subsections for the time of year in which each bulb blooms. The information is also broken up so each entry has one quick paragraph to go with it.
I recommend this book to anyone growing bulbs, no matter how much experience you have, because it can inspire a new project. I also recommend it to anyone who enjoys flipping through colorful flower photos. o
Josh Panepento is a rising senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This summer semester, he is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine.
Simplify Vegetable Gardening: All the Botanical Know-How You Need to Grow More Food and Healthier Edible Plants—Veggie Gardening with a Side of Science
Author: Tony O’Neill
Publisher: Cool Springs Press
Order Link: https://amzn.to/4bQvuka and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9780760384978
Cost: $28.99
Reviewer: Marsha Douma
The two additional subtitles the author included under his main title are: “All the botanical know-how you need to grow more food” and “healthier edible plants—veggie gardening with a side of science.”
These subtitles are, of course, challenging objectives, under any circumstances, let alone to translate what works for the author in Wales, the United Kingdom, to the needs of gardeners in other parts of the UK and around the world.
In addition to this book, O’Neill has a regular YouTube presence where he advocates the same ideas. The author is dedicated to, and passionate about, trying to convince people they need to seriously change how food is grown and distributed if there is to be an effective attempt to minimize climate change, as well as being sure everyone has enough food to eat. These themes occupy the beginning of the book, and are woven throughout as well.
The book opens with these thoughts: “Our food system is broken. Planet
Book Reviews continued from page 19
Earth currently has eight billion human inhabitants, none of them had a say in their birth, but all needing food daily. Food insecurity is a serious issue that effects millions…”
The author strongly believes that eliminating food insecurity can only be accomplished if more people grow vegetables, and grow them “scientifically” in ways that maximize both their individual size and the overall yield of the harvest. To this end, the “science” sections constitute the majority of the book. The effect of varying amounts of sunlight, rain, wind, and temperature; the presence or absence of various minerals; etc., are all discussed in detail. For gardeners who are primarily interested in increasing their yield, this information, plus the detailed charts with specific fertilizer recipes for all the different vegetables and fruits typically grown, should be useful.
Whether the extraordinary size of some of the author’s vegetables is due to his fertilizer recipes or the long summer days of sunlight, he does not address. Wales is about on the same longitude as Alaska, where huge vegetables are famously grown in the summer.
The book includes useful charts for preferred planting and growing soil temperatures, and interestingly the relative root lengths of various vegetables, to enable the mixing of edible plants and maximize growing areas in ways that minimize competition. There is also a short section dealing with plant diseases.
Simplify Vegetable Gardening is a complex book—part a gardening resource and part a political treatise. The following quotes will give you a sense of the book.
“Global climate changes require gardeners to become more agile in their approach to the craft. We all must draw along-side nature forming a symbiotic relationship to help both flourish, even in challenging times. Extended droughts, higher temperatures, colder winters, floods, nature has an appropriate response, but humans need to listen…While we often remember nature for her tempestuous display of force, the trick to becoming an effective
gardener is to listen to her whispers. We must be present in the relationship, listening and responding…”
An interesting factoid to ponder from the book: Topsoil, which is officially referred to as the pedosphere, is the very thin portion of what is more commonly referred to as the Earth’s crust. It is in the pedosphere where all trees, shrubs, flowering plants, grasses, etc. grow and where the earthworms, bacteria, fungi, miscellaneous micro organisms, and soil invertebrates live. The Earth’s core is 1,802 miles from the surface of the Earth. How well this extraordinarily thin layer, only 3–6 feet deep, can function to sustain all life is indeed miraculous, and will determine how successfully life here on Earth will be able to continue.
The book is full of such worthwhile facts. And as I increasingly find, there is always something to learn from many such books, to become a better gardener o
Marsha Douma is a retired dentist and lifelong gardener who also enjoys swimming, tennis, and playing the piano. She lives in Rockville, MD.
The Lavender Companion: Enjoy the Aroma, Flavor, and Health Benefits of this Classic Herb
Author: Terry Berlin Vesci and Jessica Dunham
Publisher: Storey Publishing
List Price: $26.00
Order Links: https://amzn.to/4cQ4UsD and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781635866841
Reviewer: Beth Py-Lieberman
You’ve got a beautiful lavender plant growing in your garden. To the delight of the bees, it somehow survives the winters, blooming reliably. Its fragrance is something you cherish. Some years, you dry stems of it, hanging them upside down; and painstakingly picking the purple blooms, stashing them in a jar. But nothing comes of the effort and the next year, you toss them.
What to do with lavender is a question you’ve saved for a season when you aren’t so busy with all the other plants you’re growing in your garden.
Now a book arrives and the world of lavender blossoms—The Lavender Companion, from Terry Berlin Vesci,
owner of Pine, Arizona’s Pine Creek Lavender Farm, and her writing companion Jessica Dunham. Since 2015, Vesci and her husband Rick, have planted 5,500 lavender plants in a location where the soil and water availability somehow favor the plants’ every need.
The couple lives amidst rows and rows of the blooming violet and vibrant purple blossoms, growing three different varieties, operating a cooking and baking school, and selling lavender products at a brick and mortar store, as well as through an online retail shop. Their farm, beneath the limestone and sandstone cliffs of the Mogollon Rim, is home to herds of elk that come to the lavender fields; and, as if in alliance with the farm couple, eat only the weeds—leaving the lavender to prosper.
“It does seem as if there is some kind of affinity to have these enormous animals be a part of the crop that you’re growing and not be a predator of that crop—to, in fact, enhance it,” Vesci has said.
The herb comes from a huge botanical family, comprising of nearly 50 species with more than 450 varieties. True lavender is Lavandula augustifolia, or English Lavender, which is the “go-to” for culinary purposes. Vesci grows two culinary varieties: Lavendula augustifolia ‘Royal Velvet’, as well as and Lavendula × intermedia ‘Provence’ and a potently fragrant French hybrid, Lavandula × intermedia ‘Grosso’, which she uses for extracting essential oil to
make soaps and other non-edible products. Vesci cautions against using nonculinary interchangeably with culinary.
“New research suggests that many of the Spanish and some of the Lavender × intermedia varieties have camphor and other strong terpenes that can be irritating to stomach and digestive tracks,” she writes, adding that reports of cardiac issues have stemmed from consuming Spanish lavender .
In the community garden, I am growing an incredibly beautiful blue ‘Hidcote’, which is one of the edible types, so I carefully extracted a tablespoon of the buds from the dried stems that I had cut and cured upside-down in a sunny window earlier this summer. With Vesci’s guidance, I added it to a cup of sugar and tossed the mixture into my food processor, whirring it all together for a couple of minutes. The silky-sweet scent that drifted around my kitchen was delightful and I was ready for more lavender recipes— Lavender Himalayan Salt, Lavender Herbs de Provence, Lavender Lemon Pepper, and a Lavender Honey infusion are all on my to-do list. But first, I’m in need of a little help.
I have a lot of lavender buds dried on their stems, but the question remains— how to efficiently separate the wheat from the chafe, so to speak, or as Vesci calls it, “debud” the stems?
I tied the stems with string, as Vesci demonstrates in the book, and then I rolled the entire bundle between my hands, with the buds at the bottom, to be dropped into a very wide pan. Et voila! In no time at all, I had about two cups of beautiful blue buds. Again, the aroma swirled around me and I felt sublimely at ease. Notes Vesci: A study of 100 patients in an intensive care unit had lavender essential oil massaged into their feet, and “showed signs of improved health, such as lowered blood pressure, heart rate, and respiratory rate and reduced pain.”
Now I’m off to the races, but I won’t toss the stems. Those I might use on the grill to smoke kabobs. (Vesci sends her stems to the OdySea Aquarium in Scottsdale, Arizona, because the penguins there use them as nest material.)
Recipes are abundant in the book—a lavender margarita, lavender pumpkin
bread, a lavender lemon Italian morning cake. I can use it in honey chicken, pecan salmon, a jammy pork loin, a Tuscan stew, or a farm-style tomato soup.
I lucked out that one particular lavender variety happened to grow well in my garden plot. The soil I had was just right—dry and slightly alkaline, ideally a pH of 7.0. Vesci recommends no mulching or compost, because these add “undesirable levels of acid” to their environment.
Now I’m hooked. And like Vesci was in the past, I’m lacking only expertise in bringing more lavender into my life. When she and her husband first came up with their vision to farm only lavender in fields frequented by a herd of elk, she recalls: “We knew nothing about the herb except that once, when Rick and I were first dating, he gave me some lavender essential oil.”
Now the pair share their Arizona farm with about 50,000 visitors annually. Their cooking school and the sales of their products afford them a living. Yet lavender provides them and so many others with more than just income or a vacation destination.
“I’ve seen firsthand,” writes Vesci, “how lavender can change people’s lives, whether it’s lavender essential oil helping a young girl find sleep after years and years of stressful deprivation (as a last resort her primary care physician sent her family to us) or helping home cooks and professional chefs alike discover the amazing variety in the tastes of lavender.” o
Beth Py-Lieberman is the author of the 2023 book The Object at Hand: Intriguing and Inspiring Stories from the Smithsonian Collections. Until her retirement in December, Py-Lieberman served as the senior museums editor at the awardwinning Smithsonian magazine, where over a 37-year-career, she frequented the halls and galleries of the Smithsonian museums, educating readers about their history, art, and science collections, and exhibitions.
Note: These book reviews include links to Amazon.com and BookShop.org for ordering them. Washington Gardener Magazine may receive a few cents from each order placed after you click on these links.
A Bird Lover’s Sticker Book
Illustrator: Leana Fischer
Publisher: Workman Publishing
List Price: $15.00
Order Links: https://amzn.to/3W81ZV2 and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781523524488
Reviewer: Kathy Jentz
This is a collection of 675+ illustrated stickers—from birds to eggs to birdhouses, along with flowers and plants. It is a charming little volume that would make the perfect gift for the birder or nature lover in your life.
The stickers are generally small—most are less than 1 inch high and wide. This makes them useful for placing in the margins of a birding diary or travel journal, or to decorate a gift package.
Bonus: The illustrator Leana Fischer is a local artist—she lives in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. o
Kathy Jentz is the founder and editor of Washington Gardener
Love Reading? The book reviews in this issue are by volunteer members of the Washington Gardener Reader Panel. To join the Washington Gardener Volunteer Reader Panel, send an email with your name and address to: KathyJentz@gmail.com We look forward to having you be a vital part of our local gardening publication o
Common Grackle
Text and photos by Cecily Nabors
A big dark bird has just landed on your feeder or is foraging with others nearby. It’s too small and slender to be a crow. The tail is long and keel-shaped, and the eyes—wow! Crows have black eyes; this bird’s eyes are bright, mad-wizard yellow. This is a Common Grackle (Quiscalus quiscula), a member of the blackbird family. In good light, the male’s glossy black feathers gleam with blue or purple iridescence. Females are less shiny.
Two other grackle species occur in the U.S. Boat-tailed Grackles are more common along the Atlantic coast and farther south. The Great-tailed Grackle flaunts his bodacious tail out west.
Common Grackles are noisy and gregarious birds, often roosting and nesting in colonies and flocking with other blackbirds, starlings, and cowbirds. A big migratory push comes through our area in spring and fall, as those birds that breed farther north move through. Although many Common Grackles overwinter in the Mid-Atlantic, they are more likely to be found in pine woods or near agricultural fields than in backyards.
In 30 years of collecting data for Project FeederWatch, I’ve never had a grackle at my suburban feeders in November, December, or January. In the 1990s, they showed up in mid-March, but in the 2000s, they moved their arrival dates ahead to late February. Perhaps their schedule is changing
to fit the changes in plants or insects caused by global warming.
The arrival of two male Common Grackles at a feeder or near a prospective mate often brings on a bout of schoolboy posturing. Each bird tips his bill straight up in a “tough guy” pose. Usually, the one whose bill can’t quite achieve the vertical moves away. No attack, no bloodshed. Very civilized!
In another common display seen in courtship, the male will fluff himself out and flare his long, pointed tail (pictured below), then deflate and give his version of song. This can be a raspy or harsh croak, frequently ending in a high squeak, reminiscent of a door hinge in need of oil.
their nest. They usually have one brood a year.
Like crows (and people), Common Grackles are omnivores. Their main diet is grains and seeds, though in summer they eat a lot of insects, caterpillars, and grubs. This soft food is also fed to the nestlings.
Grackles are not picky eaters, so their presence is often a mixed blessing. Fish, frogs, salamanders, and even mice and garbage are on their menu. Unfortunately for our soft hearts, grackles will eat other birds’ nestlings and eggs. Survival is nature’s first law.
They’ll also take advantage of any opportunity, so they are a scourge to farmers who provide that large-scale feast called a field of corn. Some joke that the quirky stuffed figures in cornfields should be called “scaregrackles,” not scarecrows. It’s not a laughing matter when farming is one’s livelihood. Many more aggressive solutions are used now, including shooting the birds at their roosts.
On a smaller scale, when a mixed flock of blackbirds and starlings swoops in and demolishes the backyard seed and suet supply, we feeders of birds tend to feel annoyed. Here’s an idea that helps a little. These birds are likely to head for their roosts well before sundown, as if looking forward to the evening’s noisy conviviality. Many backyard birds, including cardinals, woodpeckers, and chickadees, will feed earlier and later in the day than the birds that roost communally. Filling the feeders in midafternoon can help the smaller birds get their fair share of the goodies.
As the birds pair off in spring, they often choose groves of evergreens for a nest site and may nest near other birds. If you see grackles carrying long strands of grass, they’re probably constructing
The flexible, adaptable Common Grackle has flourished and spread, but its numbers have declined in eastern North America, possibly as a result of population control measures. Studies are underway to try to balance human needs with the needs of this handsome native bird. We want to keep enjoying the grackles’ energy and camaraderie. o
Cecily Nabors is a retired software manager who has been watching birds for much of her life. She publishes the Good-Natured Observations blog at cecilynabors.com.
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MARCH/APRIL 2005
• Landscape DIY vs. Pro
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MAY/JUNE 2005
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JULY/AUGUST 2005
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006
• Garden Decor Principles
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MARCH/APRIL 2006
• Top 10 Small Trees and Large Shrubs
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MAY/JUNE 2006
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JULY/AUGUST 2006
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006
• Shade Gardening
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006
• Horticultural Careers
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007
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MARCH/APRIL 2007
• Stormwater Management
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MAY/JUNE 2007
• Roses: Easy Care Tips
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JULY/AUGUST 2007
• Groundcovers: Alternatives to Turfgrass
• How to Pinch, Prune, & Dead-head
• William Paca House & Gardens
• Hardy Geraniums
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2007
• Succulents: Hardy to our Region
• Drought-Tolerant Natives
• Southern Vegetables
• Seed Saving Savvy Tips
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2007
• Gardening with Children
• Indoor Bulb-Forcing Basics
• National Museum of the American Indian
• Versatile Viburnums
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008
• Dealing with Deer
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• Delightful Daffodils
MARCH/APRIL 2008
• Patio, Balcony, Rooftop Container Gardens
• Our Favorite Garden Tools
• Coral Bells (Heuchera)
MAY/JUNE 2008
• Growing Great Tomatoes
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SUMMER 2009
• Grow Grapes in the Mid- Atlantic
• Passionflowers
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FALL 2009
• Apples
• How to Save Tomato Seeds
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WINTER 2009
• Battling Garden Thugs
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• Unusual Edibles to Grow in Our Region
SPRING 2010
• Community Gardens
• Building a Raised Bed
• Dwar f Iris
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SUMMER 2010
• Fragrance Gardens
• Watering Without Waste
• Lavender
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FALL 2010
• Vines and Climbers
• Battling Stink Bugs
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WINTER 2010
• Paths and Walkways
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SPRING 2011
• Cutting-Edge Gardens
• Final Frost Dates and When to Plant
• Bleeding Hearts
• Onions
• Flavorful Fruiting Natives
JULY/AUGUST 2008
• Landscaping with Ornamental Grasses
• Edible Grasses to Graze On
• Slug and Snail Control
• Sage Advice: Sun-Loving Salvias
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008
• Autumn Edibles — What to Plant Now
• Beguiling Barrenworts (Epimediums)
• Best Time to Plant Spring-blooming Bulbs
• 14 Dry Shade Plants Too Good to Overlook
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008
• Outdoor Lighting Essentials
• How to Prune Fruiting Trees, Shrubs, Vines
• 5 Top Tips for Overwintering Tender Bulbs
• Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009
• Compost Happens: Nature’s Free Fertilizer
• Managing Stormwater with a Rain Garden
• Visiting Virginia’s State Arboretum
• Grow Winter Hazel for Winter Color
MARCH/APRIL 2009
SUMMER 2011
• Ornamental Edibles
• Urban Foraging
• Amsonia/Arkansas Blue Star
• Growing Corn in the Mid-Atlantic
FALL 2011
• Herb Gardens
• Toad Lilies
• Sweet Potatoes
• Cool Weather Cover Crops
WINTER 2011/EARLY SPRING 2012
• Green Roofs and Walls
• Heaths and Heathers
• Radishes
SPRING 2012
• Pollinator Gardens
• Brunnera: Perennial of the Year
• Growing Yacon
SUMMER 2012
• Tropical Gardens
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SPRING 2013
• Great Garden Soil
• All About Asters
• 40+ Free and Low-cost Local Garden Tips
• Spring Edibles Planting Guide
• Testing Your Soil for a Fresh Start
• Redbud Tree Selection and Care
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SUMMER/FALL 2013
• Miniature/Faerie Gardens
• Beguiling Abelias
• Best Viewing Spots for Virginia Bluebells
MAY/JUNE 2009
• Top Easy Summer Annuals for DC Heat
• Salad Table Project
• Grow and Enjoy Eggplant
• How to Chuck a Woodchuck
• Growing Great Carrots
WINTER/EARLY SPRING 2014
• Ferns for the Mid-Atlantic
• Chanticleer Gardens
• Beet Growing Basics
Jentz Prints
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Jentz Prints can be purchased most weekends (weather-dependent) at the world-famous Eastern Market.
Antique prints are affordable—most in the $10-$30 range—and they are the perfect gift idea for that plant lover in your life. And don’t forget to buy a few for yourself!
For more information or to get a detailed show schedule, please contact Jentz Prints by email at UllrichJ@aol.com.
