Washington Gardener Magazine June 2024

WASHINGTON g a rdener

the magazine for gardening enthusiasts in the Mid-Atlantic region

False Green Hellebores (Veratrum viride)

Mugwort

Top 5 Slicing/ Sandwich

Tomatoes

Hoyas and the Science of Variegation

Tips for Getting Rid of Stink Bugs

A New Garden at AHS River Farm

Eldergrow: Fighting Dementia Through Gardening

Supporting Other Pollinators

Best Types of Mulch

Magical Dahlias

Need a Garden Club Speaker?

Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the DC region and ONLINE! Call 240.603.1461 or email KathyJentz@gmail.com for available dates, rates, and topics.

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE DISCRIMINATING GARDENER AND COLLECTOR

Barry Glick

Sunshine Farm and Gardens

696 Glicks Road

Renick, WV 24966, USA Email: barry@sunfarm.com www.sunfarm.com

www.greenspring.org

Your Ad Here

Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/Mid-Atlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out on the 15th of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588-6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 10th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.

Green Spring Gardens

A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round goldmine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins. Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.

“This stunning new garden showcases how Virginia’s gardening legacy can inspire landscapes that are not only visually captivating, but also resilient and environmentally conscious, requiring less maintenance,” says Suzanne Laporte, President of the AHS. “We are proud to have the Clara B. Plein Memorial Garden as part of the rich horticultural experiences available at River Farm.”

The silvery undersides of mugwort leaves are a stark contrast to the solid green of the uppersides. Photo credit: R. A. Nonenmacher, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Weed Column Returns

It has been a few years since we had a regular weed column in this magazine. Our former columnist, Dr. Shawn Askew, became too busy with his duties at Virginia Tech to continue on. I’ve been on the lookout for a replacement for a while. Along came Rick Borchelt, who pitched a nature column, but because our bird, native plant, and insect columnists have that pretty much covered, I asked if he’d be interested in tackling the topic of weeds. You’ll find his first column on page 22, and I’m so happy that he took on the topic of Mugwort, because that has been a particularly thorny problem in my garden ever since I naively added in when I planted it as part of a “sunny border” collection from White Flower Farm! Oh, what a monster it has become. Every year, I rip out armfuls and also offer it to local herbalists who come and dig out sections. Still, it roars back each spring. I have to come to terms with it now and I know it will be present in my landscape until a future owner brings in a backhoe to take it all out. Such is the storyline of many of our most persistent weeds: self-inflicted and persistent. I hope you enjoy Rick’s column.

Sincerely,

Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, KathyJentz@gmail.com

Credits

Kathy Jentz Editor/Publisher

Washington Gardener 826 Philadelphia Ave. Silver Spring, MD 20910

Phone: 301-588-6894

kathyjentz@gmail.com www.washingtongardener.com

Ruth E. Thaler-Carter Proofreader

Esha Bhatti

Josh Panepento Interns

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Volume 19, Number 4

ISSN 1555-8959

© 2024 Washington Gardener

All rights reserved. Published monthly.

No material may be reproduced without prior written permission. This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that the information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to legality, completeness, or technical accuracy.

Your editor taking a selfie at the Washington Youth Garden in Washington, DC.

Reader Contest

Win a box of Pine Straw from Mid-Atlantic Pine Straw Mulch and a box of Salt Hay from SaltHay.com, in the June 2024 Washington Gardener Magazine Reader Contest! (The prize retail value is $205.00.)

Mid-Atlantic Pine Straw Mulch (MidAtlanticPineStraw. com) is a family-operated business located in Pennsylvania. Salt Hay doesn’t contain weed seeds, unlike wheat straw, which contains seeds that can germinate in your garden beds. It’s organic, keeps the moisture in garden beds, can be reused over several growing seasons, and is resistant to rotting. Salt hay doesn’t compact and smother plants. Premium Longleaf Pine Straw (aka pine needles) adds a unique texture to any landscape. This natural mulch provides good weed deterrent characteristics, insulates tender root structures, retains moisture in the soil better than hardwood mulches, and is easy to spread.

To enter to win the gift card, send an email to WashingtonGardenerMagazine@ gmail.com by 5:00pm on Sunday, June 30, with “Pine Straw” in the subject line and in the body of the email. Tell us what your favorite article was in this issue of Washington Gardener Magazine issue and why. Include your full name and address. The winner will be announced on July 1. o

Your Ad Here

Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/MidAtlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out in the middle of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588.6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 5th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.

Plant a Row for the Hungry (PAR) is an easy program to participate in and really does not take any extra resources than what you may have in your garden. In normal times, about 35 million people wonder where their next meal will come from. Most of these are children. That’s where PAR steps in.

PAR is such a simple program: It urges gardeners to Plant A Row (or a container) dedicated to feeding the hungry, and then take the harvest to someplace or someone that needs it. Once you have donated, send an email to KathyJentz@gmail.com with the total (in pounds and ounces) of what you gave. That is all there is to it. Easy. Effective. Adaptable and Helpful.

Reader & Listener Favorites

My favorite article in the May 2024 Washington Gardener Magazine was the Green Heron! Of course, not only do we have a green heron living beside our creek, I drew one and had the drawing put on T-shirts for the camp I have for my grandkids every summer—Camp Didi—and people liked it so much I also had canvas bags made with the same drawing.

Love the magazine!

~ Deborah C. Nisson, Shady Side, MD

I really like the Native Azalea article in the May 2024 Washington Gardener Magazine and the rest of them, too; very informative.

~ Joanna Protz, Lynch Station, VA. Summer Squash is my favorite article in the May 2024 Washington Gardener Magazine. I love the pictures you included because squash blossoms are so pretty. Also, Patty Pans are my favorite squash to eat but hard for me to grow. Hoping to use some of the tips to be successful this summer. I grilled squash tonight as part of my summer kick-off. ~ Dawn C. Ellis, Washington, DC o

“Inspire. Connect. Grow.”

The National Garden Bureau is a nonprofit organization that exists to educate, inspire, and motivate people to increase the use of garden seed, plants, and products in homes, gardens, and workplaces by being the marketing arm of the gardening industry. Our members are experts in the field of horticulture and our information comes directly from these sources. Find out more at https://ngb.org/

American Horticulture Society Unveils New Garden at River Farm

Text and photos by Josh Panepento

On June 7, Scott Plein, surrounded by his family, unveiled the Clara B. Plein Memorial Garden at River Farm, named after his late grandmother.

The American Horticulture Society (AHS) held a private event to open the garden at their headquarters at River Farm in Alexandria, Virginia.

“My grandmother introduced me to gardening, along with my grandfather,” Plein said. “She was so instrumental for me in getting going in the world of landscaping and horticulture.”

Plein, Chair of the AHS Board of Directors, thanked AHS staff, board members, and nurseries from Maryland and Virginia who supported the project before cutting a ribbon with a giant pair of red scissors, signifying the official opening of the space. The garden was also made possible by funding from the White House Farm Foundation.

“The Memorial Garden is a tremendous palette of plantings that is definitive of both our cultural and natural past,” Plein said. “It pays homage to

River Farm’s wondrous history as part of George Washington’s original farmland and exemplifies the AHS’s focus on best gardening practices.”

The garden is in five parts split by mulch pathways: woodland deciduous azalea and viburnum plantings, wood’s edge plants, meadow, shrubs and edible garden, and shade garden.

Overall, there are 2,400 individual plants in the garden 68% are straight native species and 32% are native cultivars. Landscape architect Joan Honeyman, who designed the space, chose each plant to support pollinators, create habitat, improve air and soil quality, and provide food for humans and wildlife.

Before the garden was there, the plot was just trees and grass. The existing trees were preserved and used as the framework for building the garden.

Eight trees are featured, including magnolia, holly, and American sycamores.

Much of the garden features green ferns, grasses, and other groundcovers. The Blazing Star gave it a nice pop of purple, complemented by the white coneflowers. Also eye-catching were the yellow tickseed plants.

Wooden chairs and benches placed along the paths give it a vintage feel, like walking through your grandparents’ garden.

However, the garden is not yet fully complete. The creators hope to add birdhouses and interpretive boards soon.

Plein also included future plans for River Farm in his speech, “We just

received…a $2 million grant from the state… In addition to the improvements you’re seeing here, we are going to be putting it into restrooms, hopefully building a trail, and several other improvements all to improve public access.”

River Farm is free and open for visitors from 9am to 5pm on weekdays and 9am to 1pm on Saturdays. o

Josh Panepento is a rising senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This summer semester, he is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

The Urban Garden: 101 Ways to Grow Food and Beauty in the City is all about small-space gardening solutions!

By Kathy Jentz and Teresa Speight

Published by Cool Springs Press/Quarto Homes Order it today at: https://amzn.to/3yiLPKU

GardenDC Podcast

The GardenDC podcast is all about gardening in the greater Washington, DC, and Mid-Atlantic area. The program is hosted by Kathy Jentz, editor of Washington Gardener Magazine, and features guest experts in local and national horticulture. The latest episodes include interviews with experts on Dealing with Garden Critters and Growing Herbs in Shade. You can listen online at https:// washingtongardener.blogspot.com/ or on Spotify, Apple, etc. o

Love-in-a-Mist

By Kathy Jentz

Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella spp.) is an annual flower with beautiful blue, pink, or white blooms and fine, fennel-like foliage. The seed pods are quite striking as well.

It is native to southern Europe and northern Africa, hardy to USDA Zones 2 to 11, and surprisingly deer-resistant.

It is a pretty cut-flower specimen in a vase, whether in its flower or seed stages. It also dries well for an ever-lasting bouquet.

Love-in-a-Mist grows from 1 to 2 feet tall and does best in full sun. It prefers well-draining, rich soils. It grows in the cool seasons of spring and fall and will peter out in the heat of summer, so get the seeds started as soon as the soil can be worked in early spring.

Once established, it will self-sow and pops up in sidewalk cracks and the edges of plantings. You can pull and transplant these seedlings quite easily. You should also thin the self-sown seedlings to prevent over-crowding. Deadhead the seedpods if you don’t want to let it self-sow.

It is an old-fashioned favorite that does well in mixed borders and cottage gardens, as well as in containers. o

Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener.

Eldergrow: Fighting Dementia Through Gardening

In the hall of Ingleside Retirement Community in Washington, DC, sits a wooden cart covered in herbs and flowers planted by residents. Every day, residents water and tend the garden. While this may seem simple, it is helping to treat their moderate-stage dementia.

Marianna Blagburn and Pam Chen run Eldergrow (right), a program that includes everything from gardening to making potpourri. Blagburn and Chen began working together in April of 2023 and continue to lead activities with participants twice a month.

The activities address six wellness goals: sensory stimulation, cognitive stimulation, socialization, motor skills, creative expression, and spatial awareness. Residents take care of two indoor gardens on wheels with herbs and flowers daily.

“Part of the appeal of this program is that it’s year-round,” said Blagburn, director of memory support. “If it’s snowing outside, there’s freezing rain, or it’s really cold, we have beautiful

blooms inside and we have a chance to enjoy the restorative nature of gardening.”

Currently, participants in the program are growing oregano, lavender, and sage. Herbs with a strong smell or unique texture are favorites because they remind residents of times in their lives and keep their minds active.

Gardening can serve as a form of therapy for adults in senior living facilities, especially those with dementia or Alzheimer’s disease. Eldergrow is designed especially to offer seniors a profound connection to nature.

“[The residents] seem to really like the oregano, and they like to talk about the dishes they used to make,” said Chen, Eldergrow educator. “We have a resident who went on a trip and always tells us about that trip whenever we share the lavender.”

Also currently in the garden are begonias and spider plants. While some residents water all the plants, some are under the care of one person. People get attached to their plants, which Blagburn describes as their “pets.”

A singular pot of white sage stands out, away from the rest of the plantings. The resident in charge of the sage checks on it every day, but believes it is not strong enough yet to plant in the ground. Chen listens to the resident’s requests and will not plant the sage until the resident says it’s okay. This is an example of how, while it is a program run by Blagburn and Chen, there is a relationship between them and the residents.

Blagburn and Chen hope to help residents’ memory, but also teach them something new, especially about other cultures. For example, they used ikebana, the art of arranging flowers, to teach about Japanese culture.

“I also teach at Ingleside [Rockville] and there’s a resident there knocking on 100 [years old],” Chen said, “That resident has said to me ‘Pam, I always learn something new when I come to your class.’ She loves to come to class.”

When the ability to go outside is limited, the planned activities include making crafts. Residents have made bookmarks and May baskets for Mother’s Day. Many of these are used as gifts for grandkids or friends of the seniors. During the process, they also learn the history behind these objects.

“I see how it impacts not only the residents, but their entire family,” Chen said. “To be able to offer this to the residents and their friends and family, it’s wonderful…I’ve had loved ones approach me after class and thank me, and that’s so special.” o

Josh Panepento is a rising senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This summer semester, he is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

Text and photos by Josh Panepento

Magical Dahlias: Enjoy Them Well into Fall

The enchanting beauty and wide variety of colors of dahlias bring a touch of magic to any garden. As summer progresses and other flowers start to fade, dahlias will continue to shine deep into fall. With their late flowering period, they are a welcome reminder of the warm summer months.

Dahlias are like nature’s works of art, with petals ranging from soft pastels to vibrant, fiery colors, and their shapes varying from simple single flowers to exuberant double petals. With their broad variety of colors and shapes, dahlias will look great in any garden style, from romantic gardens to sleek modern designs.

Their versatility is what makes dahlias so special. Not only do they offer a real rainbow of colors and unusual shapes; dahlias, especially the single-flowered ones, also attract butterflies and bees, making your garden a vibrant ecosystem to boot. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or have just discovered that you have a green thumb, dahlias are always a good choice.

If you are looking for ways to embellish your garden and add some magic to your garden or balcony, just plant some dahlias. They are the superstars in the garden in both summer and fall.

Here are some dahlia growing tips.

• Planting: Make sure the soil is welldrained, water them regularly, and give them a sunny spot.

• Deadhead: To encourage flowering and keep the plant looking neat, regularly remove wilted flowers. Doing so will encourage the plants to produce new buds.

• Provide support: Dahlias sometimes have large and heavy flowers, so be sure to support them properly with plant supports to prevent the stems from bending or breaking under the weight of the flowers.

• Watering: Although fall is cooler than summer, dahlias will still need regular watering. If the weather is dry, make sure that the soil stays evenly damp, but avoid water logging.

• Winterizing: During severe winters, it is important to dig up your dahlias after the first frost. Cut the stems back to 4 inches above the ground and leave

them to dry for a few days. Store the tubers in a cool, dark, and frost-free place, such as a basement. You can plant them again in the spring.

More information is available at www. flowerbulbs.com. o

How to Get Rid of Stink Bugs

When summerlike temperatures are on their way out and cooler temperatures move in this fall, homeowners may start to see more uninvited guests inside, particularly the brown marmorated stink bug. Virginia Tech experts say not only are these bugs a nuisance, they also pose an economic threat to farmers. However, there are some positives to having them around.

It might feel like homeowners are seeing them more, but Virginia Tech entomologist Thomas Kuhar said there is no need to worry about outbreaks like those experienced in 2009 and 2010. “Brown marmorated stink bug populations have pretty much stabilized in the Mid-Atlantic states,” he said. “Natural enemies and other factors are keeping populations somewhat regulated.”

Kuhar also said, though that doesn’t mean they’re gone for good. “Brown marmorated stink bugs tend to ride out cold winters by hiding out in your home, entering through windows, cracks, and other small openings. You may also see them trying to get the warmth of the

sun on trees and sides of buildings during the day.”

During the spring and summer, these insects feed on a wide range of fruit and vegetable crops, such as apples, peaches, tomatoes, peppers, and beans, which affects the amount of crops farmers can sell. There is some good news though, Kuhar said: Their impact isn’t as big as it has been in the past. “The stink bug is now mostly just a part of our stink bug species complex. Growers know how to effectively control it with insecticides, too.”

Despite their pungent smell, there are some upsides to having stink bugs around. “While many stink bugs are agricultural pests, there are several species of stink bugs that are predators of other insects,” explained Kuhar. “Those are often considered beneficial because they provide some biological control of pests like caterpillars.”

To keep them out of your home, there are some things you can try. “Make sure your house is well-sealed and close off entryways to help reduce the number of stink bugs in your home,” said Kuhar. “Also, don’t leave windows open without a screen.”

If they do make it in your home, Kuhar recommends using a vacuum or a soda bottle to get rid of them. “Cutting off the top of a 2-liter bottle and flipping it over and putting it back on the bottle makes a nice funnel for collecting stink bugs.”

Virginia Tech researchers have found that the best way to get rid of the little buggers is to fill a foil roasting pan with water and dish soap, put the tray in a dark room, and put a light over the pan to attract the bugs.

The trap eliminated 14 times more stink bugs than store-bought traps that cost up to $50, the study found. The only price of the homemade model is the cost of a roasting pan, dish soap, and a light—all which homeowners may already own. o

Dahlia ‘Martina’ photo from iBulb.org

New Plant Spotlight

Pycnanthemum x ‘Smokey Mountain Mint’ PPAF

Intrinsic Perennial Gardens, Inc. has introduced a new Mountain Mint Pycnanthemum x ‘Smokey Mountain Mint’ PPAF.

This Pycnanthemum is a vigorous hybrid with silver bracts and leaves at the top of the plant next to a small cluster of white flowers that are spotted with lavender. Below the silver tip, smokey-purple foliage acts as a nice foil. Pollinators and people of all sorts are strongly attracted to these plants. The clumping plants reach around 24" tall and wide. It prefers a well-drained soil in full sun to light shade. The hardiness is USDA Zone 4–9 and it can be planted in spring, summer, or fall. This new Mountain Mint combines nicely with other summer bloomers, such as Allium and Stachys. Plants are available from Intrinsic Perennial Gardens.

For more information, go to intrinsicperennialgardens.com. o

Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts

• Secrets of a Gardening Podcast

• Garlic Harvest

• Meet the New Interns

• A Bus Came Through

See more Washington Gardener blog posts at WashingtonGardener.blogspot.com o

June–July Garden To-Do List

• Direct-sow annual flower and vegetable seeds.

• Water newly planted trees and shrubs weekly or as needed.

• Contact a Certified Arborist to have your trees’ health inspected.

• Check on your container plants daily and keep them well-watered.

• Watch for insect and disease problems throughout your garden.

• Mow in the early evening and cut off no more than one-third of the grass height at one time. Leave clippings on the ground to provide nutrients.

• Add barley straw (in a bale or ball) to your pond to improve water clarity.

• Take cuttings from azaleas and roses to start new plants.

• Harvest herbs to use in salads and summer dishes.

• Try a few new tropical plants on your patio.

• Shape your evergreens and hedges. Prune boxwoods.

• Look for slug trails in the early morning and put out slug bait as needed.

• Tie up climbing roses and other wandering vines.

• Fill in bare spots in the garden with annuals.

• Deadhead spent flowers to encourage reblooming.

• Prune flowering shrubs as their flowers fade—last chance to do so for fallblooming camellias.

• Spray roses with Neem oil every two weeks.

• Start a sunflower patch with help from a few kids.

• Harvest strawberry beds daily.

• Cut a few flowers to enjoy at your workplace.

• This is the perfect time to apply grub control.

• Change the water in your birdbath daily and throw a Mosquito Dunk (or Mosquito Bits) into any standing water.

• Put in supports for tomatoes and tall-blooming plants such as dahlias.

• Order spring-flowering bulbs to arrive for planting this fall.

• Take photos and update your garden journal.

• Inspect your garden hose for leaks and tighten all connections.

• Weed.

• Sow beets, beans, cucumbers, pumpkins, and squash for fall harvesting.

• Sharpen your lawnmower blade.

• Avoid using pesticides or any chemicals near your water garden.

• Make hummingbird food by boiling 2 cups sugar in 4 cups of water.

• Turn your compost pile.

• Clean up fallen fruit and berries.

• Cover berry bushes and fruit trees with bird netting.

• Dig up garlic when the tops turn brown. Place in a well-ventilated room or a dry, shady spot to cure for three weeks, then store.

• Fertilize your azaleas and rhododendrons, and monitor them closely for any lacebug damage.

• Sow heat-tolerant greens like Swiss Chard and mustard greens in part shade.

• As the heat and humidity move in, take it easy by working in the morning or early evening to avoid intense sun. Leave the big projects for this fall. For now, concentrate on maintaining the beds you’ve already established and nurturing your new plantings. o

TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS

Classes, Events, and Plant Shows/Sales

• June 28, July 26, and August 23

USNA Fourth Fridays in Summer

U.S. National Arboretum stays open until 8pm on fourth Fridays of the month this summer.

• Saturday, June 29, 10am Toads in the Garden

This series of seminars is presented by Baltimore County Master Gardeners (BCMG). All seminars will start at 10am and be held in the Demonstration Gardens at the Center for Maryland Agriculture and Farm Park, 1114 Shawan Road, Cockeysville, MD. Sessions will be held in light rain or sunshine. In the event of heavy rain or thunderstorms, sessions will be rescheduled. Other programs in the BCMG 2024 Summer Series in the Garden include:

~ July 13, Let’s Get Bay-wise ~ August 10, Integrated Pest Management

~ October 5, Deer in the Garden See details at https://extension.umd. edu/locations/baltimore-county/homegardening-master-gardeners/.

• Saturday, July 6, 10am–12n Dirt Diggers

Join fellow garden lovers and the Tudor Place garden team to help eradicate invasive species. Learn to identify nonnative, invasive species of plants and help the garden team on the mission to keep them out of the historic garden. Suggested attire includes long pants and sleeves, gloves, and sturdy boots or sneakers. Tools will be provided. Volunteers will be responsible for water, bug spray, and sun protection. Please note work might be done on steep inclines. Members/Non-Members: Free. Register at https://tudorplace.org/.

• July 8 through August 30

Summer Hours at USBG

The U.S. Botanic Garden (USBG) will shift open hours for the Conservatory to 11 am–6pm to allow the USBG time to replace the greenhouse glass roof in the Conservatory Garden Court.

In addition, on July 18 and August 15, the USBG will offer extended summer hours, staying open until 8pm.

• Every Tuesday until August 29 Twilight Tuesdays

Enjoy Ladew Topiary Gardens in Monkton, MD, in the magical early evening hours during Twilight Tuesdays. Guests can enter the gardens any time and stay through the evening to enjoy sunset views, blooms, music, and specialty café offerings. See details at https:// ladewgardens.com/.

• Sunday, July 14, 11am–1pm Garlic Festival

Held at the Takoma Park Farmers Market in Takoma Park, MD. Details TBA.

• July 19 through July 21

2024 Kenilworth Annual Lotus & Water Lily Festival

Enjoy Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens in Washington, DC, with daily ranger-led talks, viewing of the lotus and waterlily blooms, crafting, and scavenger hunts. See more at https://kenaqgardens. org/.

• Saturday, July 27, and Sunday, July 28

Annual Farm Tour & Harvest Sale

This is a self-guided tour of several farms in Montgomery County, MD. The Agriculture Reserve or “Ag Reserve” is considered one of the best examples of land conservation policies in the country. The Agricultural Reserve encompasses 93,000 acres—almost a third of the county’s land resources. This year, the Montgomery County Office of Agriculture has partnered with 24 farms, orchards, and vineyards. See https://visitmontgomery.com/blog/seedo/montgomery-county-farm-tour/.

Looking Ahead

• Sunday, August 4, 2–3:30pm

Opening Reception for Washington Gardener Garden Photo Show

Washington Gardener invites you to the opening reception of our annual garden photo show at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens in Vienna, VA. Free.

• Saturday, August 17

Tomato Taste

Held at the Silver Spring Farmers Market in Silver Spring, MD. Details TBA.

• Saturday, September 7

DC State Fair

Online contest entry is now open. Held at Franklin Park in downtown Washington, DC. See dcstatefair.org.

Event Listing Updates

See updated event listings on the Washington Gardener discussion list. Join by emailing WashingtonGardenersubscribe@googlegroups.com

How to Submit Events

To submit an event for this listing, email washingtongardenermagazine@gmail. com with “Event” in the subject line. Our next deadline is July 5 for the July 2024 issue, for events taking place after July 15, 2024. o

GROUNDCOVER REVOLUTION IS OUT NOW! By Kathy Jentz

Published by Cool Springs Press Order it today at:

https://amzn.to/3IlYHYL

“Groundcover Revolution is must-have book for anyone who is interested in having less lawn, fewer weeds, and reduced mulching. The properties charts will save the reader time and money, the pictures provide inspiration, while the detailed plant portraits give the focused information needed for creating beautiful, functional landscapes.”

―C.L. Fornari, GardenLady.com

Hoyas and the Science of Variegation

Text and photos

With the beautiful vining stems of a philodendron, the drought-tolerance of a succulent, and flowers unlike anything you’ve ever seen, hoyas have earned themselves a dedicated fanbase.

My hoya journey began with Dakota, my pet crested gecko. Hoyas, as it turns out, are one of the few non-toxic, medium-light houseplants that can survive a medium-sized lizard flinging itself onto them in the middle of the night. About a year ago, I bought a 4inch pot of Hoya pubicalyx. It seemed pretty sturdy and I loved the look of the speckled leaves. I divided the pot into what ended up being seven rooted cuttings. Hoyas are a little pricey by my standards, so I was super-happy to see that I’d gotten a good amount of plants for the $20 price tag.

Even after having all of the old soil removed from their roots, the plants had zero trouble getting established in Dakota’s tank: no shock or anything.

As houseplants, hoyas live happily in small pots with a chunky soil mix for good airflow, but passive hydroponics is another popular option. Climbing hoyas look adorable on a trellis, especially with colorful dragonfly clips.

Most hoya species are native to East and Southeast Asia, as well as

by Savannah Scollar

Australia. Some climb up trees, some hang down, and some crawl along the grass. Some grow fast, some grow slow. They’re all over the place! That’s why it’s good to look into what you’re getting, unless you like surprises.

Marketed as a “heart cactus,” a single leaf of Hoya kerrii will be sold in a 2-inch pot. Unless you’re lucky enough to have ended up with a tiny piece of vine attached underneath the soil, this “heart cactus” will forever remain as a leaf with roots. For hoya propagation, it’s super-important that you include a piece of the vine. Otherwise, your plant won’t grow!

Variegated hoyas are beautiful, but you’ve gotta keep an eye on them and do some pruning from time to time. I like to describe variegation as a bag of marbles. The next leaf is grabbing its color information as a sample from the previous leaf. If the previous leaf was half green cells and half variegated, chances are that the next leaf will be something close to that as well.

The thing is, it’s a matter of probability. You could get a bad grab and end up with a 99% green leaf or a 99% white leaf. At that point, if you want the leaf after that 99% leaf to have a good mix of colors, the odds are against you. The chances of getting a good 50/50

mix when you’re grabbing from a bag of 99% one color? It’s not looking good. To fix this, you’ll want to cut your vine back, ending the vine right after the last good leaf. This is basically telling your plant to try again, and ideally, once it grows a new leaf, you’ll get a better color combo.

Hoyas come from the milkweed family, and you can see the family resemblance in their clusters of starshaped flowers. Hoya blooms have lovely scents, ranging from chocolate to citrus.

It generally takes a while for a hoya to flower. Once it’s started, though, it’ll be able to bloom over and over again from that same spot, so don’t deadhead it! My hoyas have yet to bloom, but I’m totally looking forward to it. These days, I find myself looking at hoyas on Instagram and eBay. There are these beautiful rare hoyas that I’m hoping to get a few years from now, once the prices go from dozens, or even hundreds, of dollars, down to around 20 bucks.

Hoya leaves come in so many shapes and sizes. As a bonus, most common species are available in several options of variegation. Some plants have “splashy” variegation: silvery air pockets between the leaf cells. Some leaves turn pink, red, or purple when exposed to extra sunlight. There’s just so much to see.

Fast-growing hoyas for beginners:

• Carnosa (excluding compacta)

• Krohniana

• Lacunosa

• Pubicalyx

• Mathilde

If anyone wants to trade me some hoyas and hoya cuttings for terrarium plants and houseplants, reach out. I’m excited to grow my collection and learn even more about these amazing houseplants!

I hope you try growing hoya, they love bright indirect light and make a great, care-free houseplant. o

Savannah Scollar opened Easy Little Plants in July 2023 at age 21. It’s a houseplant shop in Olney, MD. She loves doing research, teaching private workshops, decorating with houseplants, and arranging adorable terrariums. Contact her through her website: easylittleplants.com.

Ask the Expert

By Miri Talabac

Twisted Tomato Leaves

Q: What causes curled, twisted leaves on my tomato transplants? My garden has had Aster Yellows before. Is this also a virus?

A: Plant viruses and virus-like organisms can cause weird symptoms, like distorted growth or yellowed patterns on leaves, but a more common cause of abnormal foliage in tomatoes is herbicide exposure. Like other pesticides, herbicides fit into certain “mode of action” categories, based on how their ingredients function. Growth-regulator herbicides that function similarly to plant-growth hormones tend to be the culprits in this situation, which is why they cause distortion symptoms on expanding growth. In comparison, chemicals that interfere with photosynthesis or the formation of chlorophyll can give young leaves a yellower or whiter bleached look.

If you didn’t use any weed killer, perhaps a neighbor or a farm upwind of you did. Applications from any source on a warm or breezy day may volatilize: The gaseous residues can drift onto vulnerable plants. If other plant species nearby have similar symptoms, it’s possible that compost or grass clippings applied to the garden were contaminated with a long-residual (slow to break down) growth-regulator herbicide.

All you can do is to wait to see if the plant outgrows the damage, since unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to treat or reverse it. If curled or twisted leaves are due to herbicide, and if the exposure was great enough,

recovery will not be possible and the plant should be replaced.

Tomatoes seem to be keenly sensitive to many herbicides, even at low exposure levels. Viral infections cannot be cured, either, although not all plant viruses are fatal to the host or even always symptomatic. Still, remove plants believed to be infected with a virus so they don’t contribute to pathogen spread.

How to Support the Other Pollinators

Q: I’ve noticed that Pollinator Week materials seem to focus on bees and butterflies, but other insects pollinate too, right? How do we support them?

A: Indeed, bees and butterflies are the most familiar pollinators, arguably among the most approachable for many people. For some plants, bees might be the key flower visitors. Still, plenty of other insects contribute to pollination, or at least provide benefits by visiting flowers, even if they don’t move much pollen around for cross-fertilization.

Pollinators include wasps (to skip over some nuance, bees are essentially fuzzier, vegetarian wasps), flies, beetles, and moths (butterflies are basically day-flying moths). Outside of insects, the only local birds that pollinate flowers are our hummingbirds, and this region doesn’t have pollinating bats (ours eat insects).

Plants attracting pollinators often employ a “pollinator syndrome,” which admittedly makes it sound like a disease. Syndromes are floral traits that influence pollinator use. They include color, the presence of nectar guides (runway markings to show them where the nectar is), floral shape or structure, flower scent/odor, and the presence or absence of pollen and nectar.

Sample traits for what certain underserved insect groups generally find appealing in flowers, plus some species suggestions to attract them to gardens, include:

• Beetles—white and green colors; bowl-shaped with lots of pollen; strongly scented, whether fruity or fetid; no nectar guides; Magnolia, Pawpaw, Jackin-the-Pulpit, Waterlily, Goldenrod, Aster, Carolina Allspice

• Flies—dark-brown or purple, or pale

colors; funnel-shaped or having a complex shape; fetid or putrid scent; no nectar, but having pollen; Dogbane, Red Trillium, Pipevine, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Skunk Cabbage, Pawpaw; syrphid flies (also called hoverflies or flower flies) will also feed on nectar and visit a wide variety of common flowers

• Wasps—shallow-faced (not deepthroated) blooms, given their relatively short tongues, which overlaps with bloom structures favored by butterflies; Mountain-mint, many members of the Aster family (like Goldenrod)

• Moths—white or pale colors (especially for the many night-flying species), but also dull reds or purples; clustered flowers as a “landing platform,” like butterflies prefer, although some species hover while feeding and can use tubular flowers; strong, sweet scents (again, especially at night); no nectar guides, but lots of dilute nectar and little pollen; Evening Primrose, Phlox, Common Milkweed, Liatris, Yucca, Mayapple

Protect pollinators you attract from pesticide exposure by using other methods to manage pests in the garden. Fungicides, for instance, are used to suppress disease-causing pathogens like blights and leaf spots, but might also affect beneficial microbes that live in flowers. Fungicide use could harm bees and other visitors in surprising ways, such as killing microbes that the bees ingest and need for gut health.

Best Type of Mulch

Q: What is the best type of mulch?

A: Aesthetics aside, a biodegradable mulch is ideal, since its decomposition will add valuable organic matter to the soil, which helps reduce compaction risk, retain more nutrients, and improve

Herbicide-deformed tomato leaf. Photo by Jon Traunfeld, UMD-HGIC

Bee beetle (Trichius fasciatus) and flower crab spider (Thomisidae sp.) Photo by Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

drainage. This includes natural materials like tree bark, pine needles, wood chips, straw, grass clippings, and fallen leaves. You could also use groundcovering plants as a “green mulch.”

Inorganic mulches, like gravel, stone, and lava rock, require far fewer replenishments, but as a trade-off, do not contribute to building soil organic matter. In the sun, they can get quite hot, radiating that absorbed warmth into the evening hours when plants would otherwise benefit from an overnight cool-down. Stone-type mulches are typically used on top of a layer of landscaping or weed-block fabric, intended to keep the stones from gradually sinking into the soil.

Even though rocky mulches are viewed as low-maintenance, they can still create a weeding problem. Organic matter that gradually filters into the gaps between stones (like disintegrating leaf litter) encourages weed seed germination. Roots can then grow through the fabric into the soil below, making them more difficult to remove. Landscape fabric can also get entangled in tree or shrub roots if left in place for too long, interfering with plant health or with monitoring the plants for watering needs by feeling the soil. There’s also concern about the contribution of micro- or nanoplastics to the environment because synthetic landscape fabric slowly degrades over time.

The best type of mulch is one that accomplishes the goals of mulching: suppressing weeds, reducing erosion, moderating soil temperature and moisture, and protecting plants from injury (e.g., lawn mowers near tree trunks)—without risking plant health by smothering roots or burying crowns. We advocate for either organic mulches or living plants (which can also support biodiversity), but many types of natural materials can work well if used properly and not over-applied. o

Miri Talabac is a Certified Professional Horticulturist who has worked as a horticulture consultant for the University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center since 2019. To ask a gardening or pest question, go to http:// extension.umd.edu/hgic and scroll to “connect with us.” Digital photos can be attached.

Straw mulch used around peppers. Photo by Jon Traunfeld, UMD-HGIC.

Top 5 Extraordinary Slicing/Sandwich Tomatoes

By Barbara Melera

Tomatoes may just be the most fanatically admired vegetable/fruit of all time. Many people adore them. Some people can’t stand them. But most people have a definite opinion about them. One thing that is universally true about tomatoes is that their flavor depends on the growing conditions of their environment.

A tomato grown in California may not taste anything like the same variety grown on the Delmarva Peninsula. That same variety may have been delicious when it was grown in Missouri in 2006 and very bland when it was grown in Missouri in 2007.

The soil, temperature, water, sunlight, and soil amendments all contribute to the changing flavor of tomatoes. Of all the vegetables grown in America, none might be more universally beloved than the tomato, and yet, for many decades, this delightful fruit was shunned by Americans who considered it poisonous.

The tomato is native to Mexico and western South America, where it grows as a perennial. It has been a staple of

the diet of these regions for thousands of years. Many of the wild varieties are small, intensely flavored, and borne in clusters. Other types of wild and semiwild tomatoes are larger, but deeply ribbed. The larger fruited varieties probably originated on the eastern slopes of the Andes, where there is substantially more rainfall than on the arid western slopes.

Both kinds of tomatoes were known as Love Apples. The Spanish explorers introduced the tomato into Europe in the 1500s. It quickly gained popularity, especially in Italy, where the potential of the fruit was immediately recognized.

The tomato is part of the nightshade family of vegetables that include eggplants, potatoes, and the poisonous Deadly Nightshade (Atropa belladonna). For this reason, many Americans were convinced that tomatoes, especially the larger, deeply ribbed versions, were poisonous.

This fear that certain vegetables might be poisonous grew irrationally during the late 1700s and early to mid1800s. During this time, many fresh

vegetables were shunned, not just those in the nightshade family. This fear even extended to lettuce and other salad greens that can only be eaten fresh.

By the time of the Civil War, the fear of eating fresh vegetables was beginning to lessen, but the tomato had still not been really discovered. In 1863, Fearing Burr listed only 17 different varieties.

In the 1850s, a Dr. Hand of Baltimore County, MD, began experimenting with tomato development and crossed a small, red, smooth-skinned tomato with a large, red, deeply ribbed tomato and produced a medium-sized, red, smoothskinned fruit. He worked on this development for 20 years until he perfected a fruit that he named Trophy. Trophy became the most popular variety of its time and the fruit from which many of today’s varieties have been derived. The smooth red skin of Trophy was very appealing to the consumer of the day. Between 1870 and today, as many as 1,000 different varieties of tomato have been developed. Some of the best-tasting have come and gone from the market shelves, but have been preserved in the home gardens of America.

• Black Krim

The so-called “Black” or “Purple” tomatoes have an interesting story. Most black or purple tomatoes originated on the Crimean Penninsula in the Ukraine. During the Crimean War (1853–56), Russian soldiers from the more northern regions of Russia discovered these delicious and oddly colored tomatoes on their campaigns to subjugate Ukraine. Many of the soldiers carried seeds back to their families when the war ended, and thus, the “black or purple” tomatoes proliferated throughout the eastern sections of Mother Russia. Black Krim (below) is from Krim, Rus-

sia. According to Amy Goldman, in her book, The Heirloom Tomato, seeds for Black Krim arrived in the U.S. in 1990, “…via Lars Olov Rosenstrom of Bromma, Sweden, who could grow the blackest Krim in his heated greenhouse.” Goldman’s description of this extraordinary tomato is the best I have found: “Black Krim should be welcome in every garden. I was sold even before I bit into it: The violet brown and raspberry red are amazing technicolors. The flavor is exotic and musky; the fruit acid hits me in the roof of my mouth and tickles my tongue. Others describe Krim as ‘very intense,’ ‘smokey,’ ‘salty,’ or even like downing ‘a good single malt scotch’— and that, I assume, is before fermenting it for seed-saving purposes!”

Black Krims are very large tomatoes—20–30 ounces; the biggest of the tomatoes discussed here. The vines are indeterminate so they have to be staked. We have found that these tomatoes do best if they are harvested before they are ripe and then allowed to ripen in a sunny window or outside in the sun on a porch.

Goldman also alludes to this peculiarity: “CR Lawn of Fedco Seeds advocates harvesting Krims as soon as they are half-green and still firm but before they ‘disintegrate like a chunk of road kill.”

• Big Rainbow

Big Rainbow is essentially a yelloworange tomato with a large red blush at its blossom end. According to Goldman, this tomato closely resembles a tomato introduced by J. M. Thorburn and Company in 1893, known as Thorburn’s Lemon Blush Tomato. It was developed by Elbert S. Carman, editor of the Rural New Yorker

Big Rainbow is a magnificent, bi-color tomato, golden yellow with a dramatic bright-red blush at the blossom end. The flesh is sweet and richly flavored. Fruits are 1-2 lb.

Goldman credits seed-saver Lloyd Duggins with sharing seed of Big Rainbow (then unnamed) with his friend, fellow seed-saver Dorothy Beiswenger. Goldman wrote, “Dorothy recalls, ‘When I grew this one, it surprised me so much that I named it Big Rainbow because of its beauty, and size, and hope.’”

Goldman describes the tomato in this way: “It’s as breathtaking and dear to

me today—even after sampling dozens of others—as it was nearly twenty years ago. When sliced and diced, the yellow flesh overspread with red reminds me of cut yellow peaches stained with red from the pit.”

• German Red Strawberry

German Red Strawberry is an heirloom from the Oxheart family of tomatoes. The fruit is unusual in that it is fragrant and very large for an oxheart tomato. German Red Strawberry’s 1–2 lb. fruit is a brilliant red, with a strawberry shape and delicious, sweet flesh. Besides its fragrance, the German Red Strawberry plant exhibits another unusual attribute: The seedlings are dramatically spindly and appear to be unhealthy, but mature into strong beautiful plants. It’s bizarre and inconsequential.

Plants do not grow very tall—4–6 ft.— and are not very prolific (5–7 fruit per plant is typical), but the fruit is worth waiting for.

• Kellogg’s Breakfast

I LOVE this tomato! I love its extraordinary orange color. Both the skin and the flesh are intensely orange. I love the incredible tomatoey flavor—rich, strong, and only slightly sweet. I love the fact that Kellogg’s Breakfast is reliably very prolific, unusually so given the 1–2 pound size of the fruit (about the size of the Black Krim). I love the fact that it is fairly vigorous. When just about every other tomato vine in the garden has succumbed to blight, Kellogg’s Breakfast is still producing. It is not resistant to blight, but it is one of the last varieties to be defeated by this spore-borne disease.

Finally, I love its history. Like Mortgage Lifter, Kellogg’s Breakfast originated in West Virginia, where it was collected by a seed-saver, Darrell Kellogg, of Redford, MI. Kellogg shared seed with famed heirloom tomato grower, Bill Minkey, (the same Bill Minkey who popularized Aunt Ruby’s German Green tomato) of Darien, WI. Minkey then introduced it to the Seed Savers Exchange of Decora, IA, and it rapidly became a favorite with Seed Savers members.

• Pineapple

Without a doubt, the most frequent tomato question we get at Harvesting

History is “What is your favorite tomato?” I do not have a favorite tomato. I have a favorite slicing tomato, a favorite paste tomato, a favorite cherry tomato, a favorite red tomato, etc., but I can tell you that if there were no more tomatoes ever to be had, the tomato I would miss the most is Pineapple.

For me, this is as close to the perfect fruit as it gets. The plants are indeterminate, so they need to be staked. They are quite prolific, and they are vigorous, although not immune to blight and some of the other tomato diseases.

I think they are the most beautiful tomatoes available. Pineapple is a bicolor, usually red and orange, but sometimes red, orange, and yellow (which technically would make it a tri-color). When sliced, at the center of each slice is a Rorschach Ink Blot-like pattern in bright scarlet. This scarlet design is surrounded by orange and yellow. The overall effect is dramatic. Arranged on a bed of salad greens, the slices are absolutely stunning.

And now let’s talk about taste. This tomato has magnificent flavor. It is not just sweet. It is truly fruity—a complex combination that is hard to describe in words, but oh, so marvelous to taste. I always add several Pineapple tomatoes when I am making sauce. This coming season, I am thinking about making a paste purely from Pineapple tomatoes.

Very little is known about the history of this tomato. It has been around for at least 20 years, probably longer, but not even the Seed Savers Organization seems to know its origins. If you don’t know this tomato and are looking for one to try, this would be my top choice.

The tomatoes chosen for this article are not the rarest or most unusual heirloom varieties; they are my favorites and the ones I like to recommend to my gardeners. Some of you may be familiar with all of them. All of you may be familiar with some of them. Every year each of these tomatoes has a place in my garden—they are just darn good tomatoes! o

Barbara Melera is president of Harvesting History (www.harvesting-history.com), a company that sells horticultural and agricultural products, largely of the heirloom variety, along with garden tools and equipment.

Vivacious Veratrum

By Barry Glick

Maybe because I used to enjoy playing in the mud when I was a little tyke, but something attracted me to Veratrum right away and I’m really glad that it did. I remember vividly that when I first moved from the streets of Philadelphia to the wild mountains of Greenbrier County, WV, in 1972, the local folks were insane about an early spring green called “Ramps.”

Ramps, known to plant nerds as Allium tricoccum, are a local delicacy here in Appalachia. They were described to us “hippie homesteaders” as a blend of onions and garlic, which turned out to be a pretty good analogy. Actually, they’re considered wild leeks.

If this here story is about something called Veratrum, why am I rambling on about Ramps?

It’s because Ramps are how I accidentally discovered Veratrum. You see, it’s all about the timing! When you go a diggin’ Ramps in the early spring, nothing but the Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus), is up. You have to rummage through the leaves to find the tips of the Ramp bulbs sticking up a bit. I was told that one of the best places to dig Ramps

was a short drive up the mountain to the Williams River.

The banks of the Williams River are rich and moist, a perfect place for lots of really cool plants such as Mountain Laurel (Kalmia), Fly Poison (Amianthium), and the like. Brushing away the leaves, I plunged my trowel into the black, ancient soil and immediately struck the tip of what I thought was a patch of Ramps. I kept digging around the patch, but it seemed like what I actually struck was a clump of Ramps on steroids.

I immediately knew that the fist-sized bulbs weren’t Ramps, but they were fascinating and since there was no internet yet, I couldn’t Google them. After consulting with several folks in the area who were knowledgeable about all things of nature, I came to the consensus that they were False Green Hellebores (Veratrum viride). Of course, they weren’t the Hellebores of today’s gardens, but the common name was agreed on by all and still holds today.

Not only that, but the original bulb that I found almost 50 years ago was planted in somewhat of an average area,

moisture-wise, in my garden, unlike the rich moist area where I found the bulb and certainly not the wet, boggy, mucky type of situation that they’re really at home in—and it has thrived magnificently. There are now almost a dozen bulbs in the clump. It doesn’t reach the heights of close to 6 feet tall that it does in a wet area, but it does flower in average moisture. The flowers are unique and the plant is easy to grow from seed, but takes many years to reach maturity.

Veratrum was formerly in the Liliaceae family, but has since been moved to the Melanthiaceae family. There are a couple related species of Veratrum in Europe and Asia—Veratrum nigrum and Veratrum album and a species in California: Veratrum californicum

Another favorite of mine is Veratrum parviflorum, a close relation to Veratrum viride, but much smaller in stature, with olive-green, starry flowers in bunches. The common name for this related plant is “Appalachian Bunchflower.” It tends to grow in drier soils.

Veratrum viride has been used by Native Americans to treat a multitude of ailments, but I wouldn’t recommend trying it on your own, because some of its alkaloids can be toxic. Don’t let that scare you away from growing it in your garden, though—it appears that you’d have to eat a bunch to get a belly ache— and besides, it doesn’t taste very good. Don’t ask me how I know that!

If you’re looking for something tall to make a statement in your garden, this is the plant for you. It does very well in average shade, but the wetter the better. Seems like some of my best finds, still to this day, are accidental. Has that ever happened to you, when you go out looking for one treasure and find another? I hope that this happens as frequently to you as it does to me. If the magic of discovery hasn’t yet occurred in your life, get out there and start exploring. o

Barry Glick, a transplanted Philadelphian, has been residing in Greenbrier County, WV, since 1972. His mountaintop garden and nursery is a mecca for gardeners from virtually every country in the world. He writes and lectures extensively about native plants and Hellebores, his two main specialties, and welcomes visitors with advance notice. He can be reached at barry@sunfarm.com, www. sunfarm.com, or 304.497.2208.

The Backyard Homestead Guide to Growing Organic Food: A Crop-by-Crop Reference for 62 Vegetables, Fruits, Nuts, and Herbs

Author: Tanya Denckla Cobb

Publisher: Storey Publishing List Price: $24.99

Order Links: https://amzn.to/3RByb1y and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781635867909

Reviewer: Josh Panepento

The guide to growing organic food is the latest edition in the Backyard Homestead series. Tanya Denckla Cobb takes readers step-by-step through preparing, growing, and harvesting 62 vegetables, fruits ,and herbs.

Cobb’s 300-page book is a treasure trove of information useful for beginners and experienced gardeners. There are parts of this book that readers could sit down and read, but it is best used as an encyclopedia to bring with you to your garden.

The first chapter outlines the basic aspects of starting a self-sustaining garden—information about composting, earthworms, and raised beds. From here, Cobb dedicates two or three pages to each veggie, fruit, or herb. Each entry starts with a quick two paragraphs with background information and splits the rest into easy-to-read sections.

One of the standout features of the book is its detailed attention to the specific needs of each plant. For example, readers will learn about the best soil pH levels for tomatoes, how to companion plant basil to deter pests

naturally, and the ideal time to harvest root vegetables.

The final two chapters are particularly helpful for post-planting care, covering topics such as disease control and how to handle insects and animals that may pose a threat to your garden. This part stood out because it goes beyond just a step-by-step guide about how to deter pests. It gives readers reviews and recipes for pest-deterrent sprays, advice about natural remedies, and information about beneficial insects.

For those interested in preserving their harvest, Cobb also provides useful tips for how to do so. The book includes instructions and safety guidelines to ensure successful preservation, making it a well-rounded resource for all aspects of organic gardening.

I think the book could be improved with more images, especially in the parts about diseases. It would be easier to identify diseases or if a crop is growing correctly with an example picture to reference. I would also appreciate diagrams of plant anatomy or stages of growth to help better grasp the developmental processes of crops. Despite this, I still believe the book is overall very helpful.

Even if you grow a small fraction of the crops in the book, the information about diseases and pests is worth the price alone. While much of the information could be found online, this book combines all the knowledge and saves time from scrolling through websites and verifying information.

Cobb is a reliable source for her sustainable agriculture work as the co-founder of the Virginia Sustainable Food Collaborative. It is clear through the writing that Cobb has a plethora of experience with growing these crops and did lots of research on top of that.

I recommend this book to anyone new to growing organic food. The abundance of information can seem daunting, but it will help avoid beginner mistakes. I still recommend this for more experienced gardeners who are looking for a go-to encyclopedia to consult. o

Josh Panepento is a rising senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This summer semester, he is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

Growing Herbs for Health, Wellness, Cooking, and Crafts

Author: Kim Roman

Publisher: Creative Homeowner

Order Link: https://amzn.to/3VRg8XT and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781580116008

Cost: $19.99

Reviewer: Marsha Douma

There is archeological evidence that herbs were used in human societies going back as far as 60,000 years to flavor and preserve food. There is written evidence from 5,000 years ago describing how plants, including herbs, were used as medicines. And there are ancient Chinese and Egyptian papyrus writings from 3,000 BC detailing how to flavor food with dill, cumin, marjoram, coriander, sesame, thyme, and cinnamon.

Herbs were one of the earliest items traded throughout the world, and are still highly valued among societies. There is an herb grower in Scotland who has an herbarium, where she grows 72 varieties of thyme, 28 varieties of oregano, 45 varieties of mint, and 35 varieties of rosemary. The author tells us in her introduction of a study done by NIH that found “the use of herbal medicinal products and supplements ha[d] increased tremendously over the past three decades with not less than 80% of people worldwide relying on them for some part of primary healthcare.”

With so much interest and writings about the use of herbs throughout the ages, coming up with a useful

Book Reviews continued from page 19 approach to writing a new book about herbs can certainly be a challenge. Growing Herbs successfully meets that challenge by clearly explaining, with the use of lovely photographs, the various ways to grow and propagate herbs, and the pleasure the reader will get from growing them themselves, as opposed to buying them.

The background of the author is that for many years she has been teaching hugelkulture and the “Square Foot Gardening” method for growing vegetables and herbs in small spaces. In Growing Herbs, she applies this knowledge to help readers realize they too can easily grow their own herbs, anywhere. To this end, she presents the necessary growing information in both a written-out story form, and easy-to-access summaries she calls “At a Glance Charts,” which make it convenient to find and compare if needed what might work for a given reader. In an engaging, conversational tone, the author makes the growing needs of these wonderfully versatile plants feel simple and attainable, even for the most novice gardener. She discusses at length the many places and ways they can be grown regardless of where a reader might live or work. The author also gives a nice introduction to various ways herbs can be used in addition to flavoring food: as teas for wellness, making one’s own body creams and lotions, and in home decoration projects.

This is a very comprehensive book about growing herbs which I think would be especially useful for the beginner gardener, but also for a more experienced gardener who wants to expand their herb profile. The wellorganized charts detail 51 culinary herbs and spices, including which herbs can be grown in partial shade. I found this particularly useful, since we tend to think of herbs as plants that need to be grown in full sun. o

Marsha Douma is a retired dentist and lifelong gardener who also enjoys swimming, tennis, and playing the piano. She lives in Rockville, MD.

The 30-Minute Gardener: Cultivate Beauty and Joy by Gardening Every Day

Author:

Greg Loades

Publisher: Timber Press

List Price: $30.00

Order Links: https://amzn.to/4csXZFh and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781643261331

Reviewer: Beth Py-Lieberman

The premise of this beautifully illustrated volume seems slightly off-kilter. I read an alternate significance into the title, assuming it to be a self-help tool for the over-prescribed gardener in need of a few tips for limiting their time spent digging in the soil and growing plants.

The virtue the author is entertaining here is to invite the uninitiated to the world of gardening—“a parallel universe that is bursting with life.”

Loades comes to this life as a wellvested gardener and garden writer. According to his Amazon.com biography page, he “lives in Hull, UK with his wife and three sons and spends most of his spare time in his garden.”

He is the author of the forthcoming National Trust Gardener’s Almanac 2025, due out on August 1 of this year; and in 2020, he produced The Modern Cottage Garden

To cultivate a 30-minute habit of gardening each day, Loades brings a mindful tradition passed on to him from the British plant explorer Roy Lancaster—a practice that embraces “patience, adventure, and curiosity.”

“To see something through, we also have to really want results,” Loades asserts. “Otherwise, it’s a bit like being persuaded by a friend to go to a vegan restaurant when you really feel like eating fried chicken. Your heart won’t be in it. Grow vegetables that you think are delicious. Grow flowers that you think are truly beautiful. Then patience, adventure, and curiosity will all roll into one.”

The book has many fine tips for those of us who have already embraced gardening as a worthy time sink. Loades uses his own transformation of his overgrown garden that began when he received the keys to his new house and demonstrates the practicality of how gardening a little at a time reaps powerful results. Pictures of the house and property that he buys reveal a daunting task—soul-destroying, he calls it: brambles, thick-tufted grass, bamboo, and thistles everywhere. “And to make matters worse, it was growing atop a 10 cm (4 in) layer of stones.”

This reviewer would have made a quick call to a local landscaper and paid for a crew to come out for a day or two; to make headway, but Loades jumps in and his tips give heartening cheer. He says he’s got just 30 minutes each day to make a dent, because indoors, he has a toddler and a baby and dishes to wash and other work piling up. Characterized by patience, he chooses one weed to tackle each day—there’s a dandelion day, a day for thistle, another for nettle. The tire on his wheelbarrow flattens, but he perseveres with a sense of adventure and soon a path emerges and he sees on one side of it a place for edibles; on the other side, he will plant flowers. He sows seeds and checks the pots several times a day—“for me [the practice] is the equivalent of scanning a cell phone for Facebook likes.”

He takes pictures of his progress and at night, he marks the work “to keep myself feeling positive.” Curiosity is at hand. What will he eventually build in his garden? A pond or a patio. Will there be lawn? Small spaces get cleared and before long, he adds a few plants. Because after all, he points out: “A diet of nonstop weed-battling is not a prescription for becoming a 30-

minutes-a-day gardener. It’s like asking someone to join your book club, then telling them that for the next three months you will be reading the electoral roll.”

Photographer Neil Hepworth brings lovely visuals, making the book a pleasure to engage with. We see an array of perennials—Echinacea, Eryngium, Heuchera, and Sedum—that draw attention in a winter garden. A cast of glorious roses—‘Felicia’, ‘Lady of Shalott’, ‘Princess Anne’, ‘Roald Dahl’, and ‘The Lady Gardener’—bursts from the pages.

Spring arrives and Loades is making ready with his new patio and designing his containers with seasonal offerings, from spring-flower Saxifrage to summer-flowering Osteospermum, as well as various succulents and evergreens. Surely by now, he has dispatched with his 30-minute rule and like every other gardener, is trying mightily to find time in his life for his other non-gardening commitments. On to summer and fall, and the garden under Loades’ care swells with its bounty and no arguments arise.

What mulish reader out there could deny that spending time in a garden, whether it is a mere 30 minutes or an immersive day, or weeks, or months, isn’t the best way to live a good life? o

Beth Py-Lieberman is the author of the 2023 book The Object at Hand: Intriguing and Inspiring Stories from the Smithsonian Collections. Until her retirement in December, Py-Lieberman served as the senior museums editor at the awardwinning Smithsonian magazine, where over a 37-year-career, she frequented the halls and galleries of the Smithsonian museums, educating readers about its history, art, and science collections, and exhibitions.

Love Reading?

The book reviews in this issue are by volunteer members of the Washington Gardener Reader Panel. To join the Washington Gardener Volunteer Reader Panel, send an email with your name and address to: KathyJentz@gmail.com We look forward to having you be a vital part of our local gardening publication. o

The Celestial Garden: Growing Herbs, Vegetables, and Flowers in Sync with the Moon and Zodiac

Author: Jane Hawley Stevens

Publisher: Chelsea Green Publishing List Price: $29.95

Order Links: https://amzn.to/4bbsfDC and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781645022138

Reviewer: Andrea Siegel

Eons ago, our ancestors relied on the ebb and flow of tides, the phases of the Moon and the hours of sun, the positions of stars and planets, and other rhythms of nature to inform their lives, including their plantings. This predates consulting a smartphone for the time of day and weather forecast, as well as scheduling garden time.

In The Celestial Garden, longtime herbalist and gardener Jane Hawley Stevens makes a case for celestial gardening—a practice of planting, tending the gardens, and harvesting, guided by the phases of the Moon and its movement through the constellations of the zodiac. It is, she writes, ancient knowledge that remains a worthy way of growing plants in harmony with nature and its forces, and using that learning to enhance our gardening.

For example, generally, above-ground crops would be planted during a waxing Moon, she writes—this is when the Moon appears to be getting larger. She notes that gardening by the Moon’s cycles has numerous benefits, and they

include creating a balance and rhythm in gardening work.

The book holds a lot of information, features numerous charts to make it more easily understandable, and points out the science behind some of the practices. Explanations are rich in detail. Stevens includes personal information and anecdotes, which give the paperback interesting insights. The photos show how-tos of gardening and resulting successes.

Especially for a reader trying to mesh a calendar month with the Moon’s waxing and waning and progression through sky for the first time, more than a cursory look is needed. Stevens helps readers by including information about how to put that together with garden chores, noting the preferred time for each step of gardening and why. There is astrology in the book, generally as it relates to gardening, but the author does advise readers that she does not call herself an astrologist.

Notable are the nuts and bolts of gardening that Stevens, a horticulturist, features. They offer good advice and loads of tips to anyone growing plants. Beginners or experienced gardeners can read about practices in growing from seed, step-by-step propagation of herbs by taking cuttings, transplanting, preparing harvested foods for drying, themed gardens, using infusions for deterring pests, and more.

As a guide to celestial gardening, the book’s subject matter, is interesting, because it is so different from most gardening books. Whether a reader wants to adopt all or some celestial gardening practices shouldn’t be an issue; the author reminds us that everything from personal preferences to schedules to weather may prevent that. No worries.

But there is another takeaway here. In our everyday lives, we hear about such scary things: devastating health impacts due to pollution and the use of poisons, and the like. The author advises us not to shut out nature’s warnings, but instead, to choose to reconnect with the natural world and not harm our planet—and that includes learning from nature, relating to nature’s offerings, and living in harmony with nature. o Andrea Siegel is a master gardener in Maryland.

MugworT

By Rick Borchelt

Day length reaches its maximum this month, our longest day in the Washington, DC-area being June 21, give or take a day. Gardens reach their peak lushness now, too, overflowing sidewalks, overtopping fences, all but leaping out of pots and raised beds and containers. Ever-taller stakes are in order. Every garden is a green jungle.

But these halcyon days of summer also bring out the worst of Washington’s weeds. Nutsedges are hiding among the daylilies, the roses are suddenly trellises for porcelain berry—and where on Earth did that 6-foot pokeweed come from? Midsummer is the true test of a weeder’s stamina.

This weed profile features a plant intimately tied to the summer solstice. Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) even takes St. John’s plant as one of its other common names to reinforce the connection: the Feast of St. John the Baptist, which is celebrated at the solstice. Ironic that a genus named for a moon goddess, Artemis, has such strong solar connections!

For most of this spring, mugwort in your garden beds will have been a rather polite, even dainty plant whose leaves resemble those of chrysanthemums. These leaves have a feathery texture with an attractive silvery underside; they also have a soft, brushy feel because the leaves are covered with a mat of tiny, water-repellent hairs. Crush the leaves, and they emit a pungent scent that’s also reminiscent of some mums. However, these admittedly charming qualities belie what’s really going on

under those delicate silvery leaves. Mugwort’s anything but delicate below the soil, where the rhizomes creep aggressively, infiltrating in and around your ornamentals and vegetables, and actively releasing chemicals into the soil to retard the growth of other nearby plants. Soon enough, those mugwort plants will shoot up to 3 or 4 feet high, all of it rank growth topped with masses of inconspicuous greenish flowers similar to many of its wormwood family cousins.

Next spring, your mugwort patch will have easily doubled or even tripled in size. Mugwort can take over entire meadows in the span of a few years.

A native of Europe and Asia, mugwort made its way into American gardens—as many weeds have—with the help of colonists who deliberately brought it with them as a culinary and medicinal herb. The name mugwort references its use to flavor ales, and older European recipes call for it as an aromatic addition for stews—many Asian dishes, from soups to pancakes, still list mugwort as an ingredient. Medieval apothecaries prescribed it for a range of digestive ailments. Colonists coddled their mugwort plants on long sea voyages out of England.

Once established in colonial herb patches, though, mugwort was not content to stay there. In the Americas, it doesn’t reproduce very well by seeds, despite the abundant late summer flowers. Instead, it’s those stealthy rhizomes—did I mention another common name for mugwort is felon herb?—creeping insidiously through the vegetable

Pictured at left, the delicate, ferny leaves of mugwort disguise the tough, fibrous roots infiltrating your garden. Photo credit: Betty Marose, University of Maryland Extension. Inset image, later in the summer, mugwort sports tall, tough stalks with inconspicuous flowers. Photo credit: Radio Tonreg from Vienna, Austria, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

patch that created the opportunity for jailbreak into meadows and along roadsides.

Mugwort is now a very common, even ubiquitous, invasive weed in much of the U.S.

Luckily, mugwort is easy to pull in the spring and early summer before it toughens up and enjoys its flowering growth spurt. Like many plant bullies, it really isn’t all that tough when it comes down to it; it’s easily shaded out or smothered by other, even more aggressive garden plants that throttle mugwort before it pumps too much of its unneighborly toxin into the soil around it. I’ve left a small patch in my shady backyard, hemmed in by huge hostas and a tangle of clethra, and it’s been rather wellbehaved for most of a decade.

If somehow you’ve neglected to get rid of your own patch of mugwort until it gets tall, all is not lost. Pull what you can after a rain, and mow or clip the rest—it can’t stand up to being repeatedly cut. Make sure you thoroughly dry any of the fibrous roots you pull (or even easier, bake them in a black trash bag in the hot sun for a few days) to make sure they’re dead and can’t resprout.

Using an herbicide is usually not a very good option, since those same hairs that give the leaves their velvety feel prevent most weed killers from achieving good coverage.

Yanking out mugwort on Midsummer’s Eve offers a nifty two-birds-with-onestone opportunity: Pagan European traditions call for putting sprigs of mugwort under your pillow on that very night to bring dreams of your future true love. Mugwort leaves do contain thujone, a mildly hallucinogenic compound, so even if the dreams don’t come true, they might be entertaining! o

Rick Borchelt is a botanist and science writer who gardens and writes about natural history at his home in College Park. Reach him with weed ID questions at rborchelt@gmail.com.

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MARCH/APRIL 2005

• Landscape DIY vs. Pro

• Prevent Gardener’s Back

• Ladew Topiary Gardens

• Cherry Trees MAY/JUNE 2005

• Stunning Plant Combinations

• Turning Clay into Rich Soil

• Wild Garlic

• Strawberries

JULY/AUGUST 2005

• Water Gardens

• Poison Ivy

• Disguising a Sloping Yard

• Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005

• Container Gardens

• Clematis Vines

• Sponge Gardening/Rain Gardens

• 5 Insect Enemies of Gardeners

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005

• Backyard Bird Habitats

• Hellebores

• Building a Coldframe

• Bulb Planting Basics

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006

• Garden Decor Principles

• Primroses

• Tasty Heirloom Veggies

• U.S. Botanic Garden

MARCH/APRIL 2006

• Top 10 Small Trees and Large Shrubs

• Azaleas

• Figs, Berries, & Persimmons

• Basic Pruning Principles

MAY/JUNE 2006

• Using Native Plants in Your Landscape

• Crabgrass

• Peppers

• Secret Sources for Free Plants

JULY/AUGUST 2006

• Hydrangeas

• Theme Gardens

• Agave

• Find Garden Space by Growing Up

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006

• Shade Gardening

• Hosta Care Guide

• Fig-growing Tips and Recipes

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006

• Horticultural Careers

• Juniper Care Guide

• Winter Squash Growing Tips and Recipes

• Layer/Lasagna Gardening

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007

• Indoor Gardening

• Daphne Care Guide

• Asparagus Growing Tips and Recipes

• Houseplant Propagation

MARCH/APRIL 2007

• Stormwater Management

• Dogwood Selection & Care Guide

• Early Spring Vegetable Growing Tips

• Franciscan Monastery Bulb Gardens

MAY/JUNE 2007

• Roses: Easy Care Tips

• Native Roses & Heirloom Roses

• Edible Flowers

• How to Plant a Bare-root Rose

JULY/AUGUST 2007

• Groundcovers: Alternatives to Turfgrass

• How to Pinch, Prune, & Dead-head

• William Paca House & Gardens

• Hardy Geraniums

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2007

• Succulents: Hardy to our Region

• Drought-Tolerant Natives

• Southern Vegetables

• Seed Saving Savvy Tips

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2007

• Gardening with Children

• Indoor Bulb-Forcing Basics

• National Museum of the American Indian

• Versatile Viburnums

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008

• Dealing with Deer

• Our Favorite Garden Tools

• Delightful Daffodils

MARCH/APRIL 2008

• Patio, Balcony, Rooftop Container Gardens

• Our Favorite Garden Tools

• Coral Bells (Heuchera)

MAY/JUNE 2008

• Growing Great Tomatoes

• Glamorous Gladiolus

• Seed-Starting Basics

SUMMER 2009

• Grow Grapes in the Mid- Atlantic

• Passionflowers

• Mulching Basics

• Growing Hops

FALL 2009

• Apples

• How to Save Tomato Seeds

• Persimmons

WINTER 2009

• Battling Garden Thugs

• How to Start Seeds Indoors

• Red Twig Dogwoods

• Unusual Edibles to Grow in Our Region

SPRING 2010

• Community Gardens

• Building a Raised Bed

• Dwar f Iris

• Broccoli

SUMMER 2010

• Fragrance Gardens

• Watering Without Waste

• Lavender

• Potatoes

FALL 2010

• Vines and Climbers

• Battling Stink Bugs

• Russian Sage

• Garlic

WINTER 2010

• Paths and Walkways

• Edgeworthia

• Kohlrabi

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SOLDOUT!SOLDOUT!SOLDOUT!

SPRING 2011

• Cutting-Edge Gardens

• Final Frost Dates and When to Plant

• Bleeding Hearts

• Onions

• Flavorful Fruiting Natives

JULY/AUGUST 2008

• Landscaping with Ornamental Grasses

• Edible Grasses to Graze On

• Slug and Snail Control

• Sage Advice: Sun-Loving Salvias

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008

• Autumn Edibles — What to Plant Now

• Beguiling Barrenworts (Epimediums)

• Best Time to Plant Spring-blooming Bulbs

• 14 Dry Shade Plants Too Good to Overlook

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008

• Outdoor Lighting Essentials

• How to Prune Fruiting Trees, Shrubs, Vines

• 5 Top Tips for Overwintering Tender Bulbs

• Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009

• Compost Happens: Nature’s Free Fertilizer

• Managing Stormwater with a Rain Garden

• Visiting Virginia’s State Arboretum

• Grow Winter Hazel for Winter Color

MARCH/APRIL 2009

SUMMER 2011

• Ornamental Edibles

• Urban Foraging

• Amsonia/Arkansas Blue Star

• Growing Corn in the Mid-Atlantic

FALL 2011

• Herb Gardens

• Toad Lilies

• Sweet Potatoes

• Cool Weather Cover Crops

WINTER 2011/EARLY SPRING 2012

• Green Roofs and Walls

• Heaths and Heathers

• Radishes

SPRING 2012

• Pollinator Gardens

• Brunnera: Perennial of the Year

• Growing Yacon

SUMMER 2012

• Tropical Gardens

• Captivating Canna

• Icebox Watermelons

SPRING 2013

• Great Garden Soil

• All About Asters

• 40+ Free and Low-cost Local Garden Tips

• Spring Edibles Planting Guide

• Testing Your Soil for a Fresh Start

• Redbud Tree Selection and Care

SOLDOUT!SOLDOUT!SOLDOUT!

• Squash Vine Borer

SUMMER/FALL 2013

• Miniature/Faerie Gardens

• Beguiling Abelias

• Best Viewing Spots for Virginia Bluebells

MAY/JUNE 2009

• Top Easy Summer Annuals for DC Heat

• Salad Table Project

• Grow and Enjoy Eggplant

• How to Chuck a Woodchuck

• Growing Great Carrots

WINTER/EARLY SPRING 2014

• Ferns for the Mid-Atlantic

• Chanticleer Gardens

• Beet Growing Basics

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Jentz Prints can be purchased most weekends (weather-dependent) at the world-famous Eastern Market.

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