TIPStricks

Top Seed Storing Tips

Some seeds can last for decades—melons, squash, and pumpkins. Most seeds, if stored well, will last for several years. Notable exceptions are onion family seed (including leeks), peppers (both sweet and hot), peas, sweet corn, okra, parsley, parsnip, salsify, spinach, and lettuce.

According to Barbara Melera of Harvesting History (harvesting-history. com), the three factors that contribute most to destroying a seed’s ability to germinate are moisture (primarily in the form of humidity), radical changes in temperature on a regular basis, and fungi/bacteria on the seeds because of insufficient drying. • Moisture acts as an enabler, creating an environment for mold and/or bacteria to proliferate. Moisture softens the hard outer surface of the seed, which then allows mold/fungi to penetrate the germplasm and destroy it. • Radical temperature changes also compromise a seed’s ability to germinate. By radical temperature changes, Melera means that within a 24-hour period, the seed is exposed to 80 degree temperatures and then 40 degree temperatures. Temperature changes that occur on a frequent basis weaken the seed. These can alter the chemical structure of the seed and render it nonviable. • Bacteria/fungi/viruses can be introduced to seeds from many sources, but the most likely source is insufficient drying. These biologicals destroy seeds in many ways. Some seed-savers spray their seeds before storing with a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide and then allow the seed to dry for 24-48 hours. This can work for many seed varieties, but it can also harm some seeds. The best container in which to store seeds is a glass jar with a screw-top lid. Glass jars eliminate the problem of seed being exposed to humidity or other forms of moisture. Jars sterilized in a dishwasher, boiled in a water bath for an hour, or wiped down with bleach and allowed to dry significantly reduce the danger of mold/fungi/bacteria/viruses. To store multiple seed varieties in a single glass jar, put each variety in its own paper bag. o Have color for months on end by planting spring-flowering bulbs this fall. Flower bulbs provide color in the garden when the rest of the plants are still deep in hibernation. The fun starts as early as January. Did you know that there are also varieties that continue to bloom until early summer? With a combination of the right flower bulbs, you can bring color and cheerfulness to your green oasis for the first six months of the year. The best-known spring-flowering bulbs are tulips (Tulipa), daffodils (Narcissus), crocuses (Crocus), and hyacinths (Hyacinthus). But there are many more absolute gems with beautiful flowers, such as grape hyacinths (Muscari), lapwing (Fritillaria meleagris), snowdrops (Galanthus), and alliums. If you want to find out when they will flower, just check the calendar chart from iBulb.com, above.

Most flower bulbs bloom for several weeks. How can you make sure the different flowering periods align nicely? By choosing the right combinations! An example of such a combination is snowdrops (January), crocuses (February), botanical daffodils (March), grape hyacinths (April), tulips (April / May), and alliums (June). If you plant them now, all that’s left for you to do in the spring is enjoy them. Consider planting flower bulbs before the end of the year and turn it into a family seasonal celebration or tradition. Do make sure your bulbs are in the ground before the ground freezes. Flower bulbs need the cold to grow and bloom properly. Planting flower bulbs is done in three steps: 1. Dig a hole for a large group of bulbs or individual holes for single bulbs. The rule of thumb is to plant the bulb three times as deep as it is tall. 2. Place the flower bulbs in the soil with the tips facing up. If you’re not sure which way is up, don’t worry: the bulbs will grow and flower even if you plant them upsidedown. Large flower bulbs like to be 3 to 8 inches apart from each other and smaller ones should be set 1 to 3 inches apart. 3. Cover the bulbs with soil and water them, but only if the soil gets dry. The range of flower bulbs is extensive. Always check the packaging for the correct flowering period, so you can create the right combinations. For instance, daffodil varieties can be early-season, mid-season, or late-season bloomers. Many spring-flowering bulbs enjoy a sunny spot or partial shade. Check the packaging for the correct location. Flower bulbs will grow in almost any type of soil, provided it is not too wet. Avoid places where water tends to pool, such as the bottom of a hill or under drains. If you have a balcony or terrace, plant your bulbs in pots using the lasagna method, by planting the flower bulbs in layers. Put late-flowering bulbs at the bottom and the early-flowering ones at the top. If you plant the layers in the correct flowering order, the early bloomers will flower first, followed by the bulbs that bloom at a later time. More information about flower bulbs is available at www.flowerbulbs.com. o