Washington Gardener Magazine September 2023

WASHINGTON g a rdener

Should You Worry About Hammerhead Worms?

Attracting the House Finch to Your Garden

The NEW National Botanic Garden

A New, Improved New England Aster Beech Leaf Disease in Our Region

Fall Bulb Planting Timing

Great Gardening Books Reviewed

The Many Benefits of Cover Crops

How to Grow Beets: Best in Fall

What Are Soil Pores?

Your Ad Here

Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/Mid-Atlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out on the 15th of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588-6894 for ad rates (starting from $200) The ad deadline is the 10th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.

Need a Garden Club Speaker?

ooo o o o

Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the DC region and ONLINE! Call 240.603.1461 or email KathyJentz@gmail.com for available dates, rates, and topics.

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE DISCRIMINATING GARDENER AND COLLECTOR

Barry Glick

Sunshine Farm and Gardens 696 Glicks Road

Renick, WV 24966, USA

Email: barry@sunfarm.com www.sunfarm.com

Green Spring Gardens

www.greenspring.org

A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round goldmine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins. Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.

Former Washington Gardener intern Anastazja Kolodziej shared this recipe for roasted beets on our blog and we reprint it with our beet article. Her photo here of the beets cut up before cooking shows the beautiful colors and patterning of this healthy and delicious root vegetable. We grew the ‘Chioggia’ and ‘Badger Flame’ varieties in the Washington Gardener community garden plot that year.

The National Botanic Garden is dedicated to education and research, connecting adults and children to nature. This is not an ordinary garden.

In summer, you may see House Finches like this female lean in to drink water from the ant-wells of hummingbird feeders. In winter, finches will frequent your seed feeders.

Borrowing the View

An old garden design principle tells us to “borrow the view” from a nearby property while we build out our garden. Unfortunately, my property view is mainly of a neighbor who prefers to park multiple cars in various states of disrepair along our shared fence border and the other view is of the screaming-orange wall of a Public Storage business. I cannot control either of those vistas, but I can control my little part of the planet that I garden and survey.

For a more pleasing perspective, I visit public gardens and parks throughout our region. I was thrilled to get the invitation to tour the new National Public Garden (see page 6) and see it while it is fairly new and still being developed. I’m sure I’ll be back there dozens of times in the coming years to see how it changes and adapts its mission and plantings.

I also enjoy the local public gardens that have been around for decades or even centuries. Yesterday, I attended a meeting of the Potomac Rose Society at Tudor Place in Georgetown, Washington, DC. I visited there twice earlier in the year and it is always a treat to see the gardens as they progress through the seasons. The feeling of stepping back into history as you walk through the gates is evocative and makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a simpler time, though we all know that times were complicated and tough in every period of our past.

One of my favorite local spots to borrow the view and get away from the every day is at the Smithsonian Gardens along the National Mall, particularly the Ripley and the Haupt. Each of these provides seating in semi-secluded areas to allow you to rest and revive your senses a bit before continuing on with your busy day.

I have to conclude with a nod to the U.S. Botanic Garden, whose conservatory has been my respite on many occasions when the weather outside was just too windy, wet, cold, or hot.

How lucky we are in our region to have these garden oases and many more that I sadly have run out of space to include!

Credits

Kathy Jentz Editor/Publisher

Washington Gardener

826 Philadelphia Ave.

Silver Spring, MD 20910

Phone: 301-588-6894

kathyjentz@gmail.com

www.washingtongardener.com

Ruth E. Thaler-Carter Proofreader

Christine Folivi Intern

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Volume 18, Number 7

ISSN 1555-8959

© 2023 Washington Gardener

Sincerely,

Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, KathyJentz@gmail.com

All rights reserved. Published monthly. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission. This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that the information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to legality, completeness, or technical accuracy.

All uncredited photos in this issue are © Kathy Jentz.

Your editor at the Como Park Zoo and Conservatory in Minnesota. Photo by Tracy Walsh.

Reader Contest

For our September 2023 Washington Gardener Reader Contest, we are giving away a bag of First Saturday Lime ($32.99/20lb bag).

First Saturday Lime (FSL) is the strongest and safest pesticide alternative on the market. Unlike traditional lime, it’s safe enough for use around kids, pets, and ponds when used as directed. With just a once-monthly application (we suggest the first Saturday of every month...wink, wink), it is strong enough to dry up insects and their eggs and larvae, while destroying odors and odor-causing bacteria. First Saturday Lime is non-flammable, and has no known health hazards as compared to diatomaceous earth. While other products are caustic, or poisonous to humans and animals, FSL is safe because it is insoluble and will not react with skin or moisture. The company has taken extra, lengthy steps to make their formula fine (with a cake flour-like consistency), so it’s easier to use and more effective. For more information, visit https://firstsaturdaylime.com/.

To enter, send an email to WashingtonGardenerMagazine@gmail.com by 5:00pm on September 30 with “First Saturday Lime ” in the Subject line and in the body of the email. Tell us what your favorite article was in this issue and why. Include your full name and mailing address. Winners will be announced and notified on (or shortly after) October 1. o

Your Ad Here

Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/MidAtlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out in the middle of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588.6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 5th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.

August 2023 issue

My favorite article is “Preserving History at the Dumbarton House.” Two of my favorite things are history and gardening, and there is nothing better than when they come together like the Dumbarton House. I truly enjoy visiting these historical sites and love to learn of new places to tour. I volunteer at the Riversdale House Museum historical gardens, and it is always interesting to see how other historical sites maintain the gardens and develop designs that are true to the period. Even though I have lived in the area 30+ years, this article is the first I have heard of the Dumbarton House, can’t wait to visit!

~ Darcy Hanes, Beltsville, MD

My favorite article was “Grow Delicious Carrots.” The instructions for container grown carrots were thorough, including the detailed soil requirements. I look forward to trying some carrots and radishes next year in one of my vegetable garden pots using the gardener’s harvesting set if I win.

~ April Bayne, Chicago, IL

I just read your magazine online. My favorite was “Monkey Balls” because I have seen that plant only once before, growing in a greenhouse at the NY Botanical Garden. Thanks for that article.

~ Peggy Hannon, Ellicott City, MD

My favorite article this month was “The Enduring History of Dumbarton House” because up until now I was never quite sure of its relationship to Dumbarton Oaks! And I’d love to visit the gardens.

~ Anamaria Anderson, Arlington, VA

“How to Grow Carrots” was my favorite article in the August 2023 issue. I’m inspired to try some for the fall in my container garden!

~ Emily Tatro, Washington, DC

Plant a Row for the Hungry (PAR) is an easy program to participate in and really does not take any extra resources than what you may have in your garden. In normal times, about 35 million people wonder where their next meal will come from. Most of these are children. That’s where PAR steps in.

PAR is such a simple program: It urges gardeners to Plant A Row (or a container) dedicated to feeding the hungry, and then take the harvest to someplace or someone that needs it. Once you have donated, send an email to KathyJentz@gmail.com with the total (in pounds and ounces) of what you gave. That is all there is to it. Easy. Effective. Adaptable and Helpful.

July 2023 issue

I enjoyed all the articles in the issue, but I think the one that featured a wonderful young man, “KIMANI Anku, Founder of Gardening & Beats,” was the most interesting to me and the work that he is doing. Thank you!

~ Joanna Protz, Lynch Station, VA o

The NEW National Botanic Garden

Purpose and Mission

With more than 1,000 acres of land, much of which is the Amazing Fun Farm that welcomes school children and corporate events, the possibilities are endless. The Knops asked themselves: “How do we stimulate the imagination? How do we get people back into nature?”

With those questions in mind, they set about creating landscapes filled with large-scale sculptural art and fantasy elements.

They have built up 40 acres so far. “We’ll be about 150 acres, with a little over 100 of true gardens,” shared Peter Knop. “Then there will be about 150 acres of natural wilderness.”

Beata designed the Xeric Garden for Peter as a birthday present. “My husband was, at one time, fascinated with cacti,” she explains. “And I saw so many those cacti suffering. They didn’t have a home sitting in the greenhouse or outside. He said do something with them, so I said, okay, you are not allowed to pass that road for one month and I will create this landscape for them.” The result is the East Coast’s largest xeric garden, demonstrating water-wise gardening and low-maintenance garden techniques.

By Kathy Jentz

A new public garden is growing on private land in Loudoun County, Virginia. The National Botanic Garden is the creation of Peter and Beata Knop, who intend to build up the garden and then leave it to the federal government with an endowment so it will last in perpetuity

Their ambitious plans include converting former cornfields into a worldclass plant collection for education and research that connects people to nature.

Naming Controversy

The news of a new public garden called the “National Botanic Garden” has some people in the local gardening world feeling a bit perturbed. “Yeah,

there are a lot of people kind of got their hackles raised by that because there is a ‘national’ Botanical Garden downtown [the U.S. Botanic Garden],” said Peter.

“We’ve got a great National Arboretum, great National Portrait Gallery, great national, everything,” he continued. “There’s no great National Botanic Garden. And after our lifetimes, we’re going to leave it to the nation. That’s where that’s where we got the name national.”

The Knops are selling some of the plants they propagate at the garden as one means of supporting the property. They also host group events and art festivals.

“From an environmental point of view, we see water as being a critical resource,” said Peter, “and America’s love affair with the lawn is not something that thrills us. The only way you’re going to change people is showing them something different that they can look at and understand.”

Reclaim and Reuse

Peter Knop is a fourth-generation owner of the land and previously operated a winery and a Christmas tree farm on the property. He then turned to “agricycling,” composting garden waste (leaves, fallen limbs, grass clippings, etc.) and recyclable materials such as newspapers into mulch and soil additives.

The gardens and hardscapes are predominantly made from reclaimed materials. From the brick pathways to wooden sheds, the materials are reused from other projects or repurposed from elsewhere.

Much of the stone and soil used in the garden was removed from nearby developments in Northern Virginia and brought to the location to create the undulating landscape, berms, walls, pathways, and—most notably—a mountain.

That artificial mountain has made the local news several times. Both nearby Dulles Airport and the Manassas National Battlefield Park objected to the project.

“We had a lot of problems building the mountain,” acknowledged Peter. “But now it’s the highest point between the Atlantic and the Blue Ridge you get 360-degree views.”

From the mountain’s summit, you can view four states (Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania). The Knops anticipate it will be open to visitors next year.

Famous Friends

Frank Cabot, founder of the Garden Conservancy, was an early supporter of the project. Beata shared that “he said Peter is doing what God would have done, if he had the time and money.”

Other connections at local public gardens in the area have resulted in sharing plants and advice for developing the gardens.

“As we are just starting to open our wings, we are wide open to suggestions about how we can promote others and vice versa,” said Peter. “We have exchanged plants with numerous gardens, especially from plant collecting trips abroad, where we sometimes come up with some fun plants, like the Bulgarian fig. Another favorite we are studying to see how potentially invasive it might be is the Chinaberry (Melia azedarach), which we know has been a problem further south, but we have a Malta variety, as well as South African, which seem to do well here. We see it as a source of high-value timber as well as a beautiful decorative landscape plant, but are also looking at its potential downsides.”

“One thing we started to discuss is the need to bring in non-natives to replace those we are losing to climate change and invasive bugs. But to bring them in (and to release to the public), we have to be sure that they meet many of the qualities or characteristics

of the trees/plants they are to replace from the point of view of their role in the local ecosystem, from being a food source for our existing native critters, from butterflies to mammals and all of our cold-blooded friends, reptiles, etc., and on the other side, do not have negative impacts like allelopathy for our remaining natives. It takes us 10 to 15 years to believe we have something that we do not object to seeing go ‘wild.’ Some of our Mahonia fit that category— 50 years and totally minimal spread.”

Plant Collections

The grounds feature unusual specimens as well as common ones. There are few labels at this point, and a few educational signs are sprinkled about. There are fruit tree orchards, including collections of figs and jujubes, that will be available for picking and fruitthemed festivals.

A swampy low area is host to bald cypress trees and wildlife.

Canals cut through the landscape and flow into a lake with 50 small

islands—each one planted with a different species of bamboo. This is billed as “America’s largest bamboo garden” and the running varieties are kept in check by that surrounding water.

Some of these tender bamboo shoots provide food for pandas at the National Zoo.

“Bamboo is a very fast-growing plant,” said Peter. “We think that we can modify it or breed it to use for carbon sequestration.”

Art and Follies

The biggest elements of the garden currently in place are the outdoor sculptures. They are mainly formed from recycled steel and are modern in design and theme. Beata Knop is the artist behind the creations.

She is also the visionary behind the HobbitTown, an undulating dragon sculpture, and a castle (still in process). These garden follies are meant to be interacted with—visitors can scramble over the rocks and even enter the little hobbit abodes to make themselves at home there.

Future Plans

“What we’re focusing on now, or trying to, is stimulation of the imagination,” said the Knops. “To have a full and rewarding life, you need to be connected to the earth and imagination is part of it. You need to have pleasure in life. And nature delivers it in spades.”

In future years, they plan to open the property up for regular visitor hours and to start a docent program.

Visiting the National Botanic Garden

The National Botanic Garden is located at 26320 Ticonderoga Road, Chantilly, Virginia.

Currently, the gardens are only open by appointment and during specific weekends and events. To get notification of upcoming events and scheduled openings, sign up for their newsletter at https://nationalbotanicgarden.org/ Garden clubs and other horticultural-related groups can also contact the Knops to set up a visit to tour the grounds on a limited basis. o

Kathy Jentz is the founder and editor of Washington Gardener

Beech Leaf Disease Confirmed in Our Region

The Maryland Department of Agriculture has confirmed the presence of beech leaf disease (BLD) and the associated nematode, Litylenchus crenatae maccannii, in Harford County. Beech leaf disease is a new disease affecting all beech species, including American beech (Fagus grandifolia). The disease has been found in surrounding states, including Pennsylvania, Virginia, New Jersey, Ohio, Michigan, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, and Maine.

Beech Leaf Disease causes a dark banding or striping between the leaf veins. Trees with severe symptoms are heavily banded with yellowing, shrunken, and thickened leaves. The disease can kill understory trees in two years and mature trees in six to 10 years. Treatments for BLD are currently being researched.

“I applaud the department’s Forest Pest team for their quick action on identifying this disease,” said Maryland Department of Agriculture Secretary Kevin Atticks. “The team will continue to monitor and report the spread of Beech leaf disease as it occurs. Homeowners are encouraged to do the same.”

To report symptoms of BLD, data can be entered on the Tree Health Survey app (https://treehealthapp) or reported by email to fpm.mda@maryland.gov. For additional information, visit the UMD Extension Website at https://bit. ly/3Eny7eO. Additional counties are being tested for presence of the BLD and the nematode. Permanent survey plots have been set up across Maryland since 2019 o

When Should You Plant Flower Bulbs?

Do you regret not having planted flower bulbs every time spring rolls around? Well, time for a change! Don’t forget to plant them this year. Instead, treat yourself to the first spring color in the garden by planting your flower bulbs now.

Okay, this year, you’re actually going to do it. But when exactly should you plant your flower bulbs? Don’t worry: These garden jewels can be planted from September to the end of December. Just be sure to plant them before the ground freezes. Fortunately, the period for planting flower bulbs is plenty long.

Once flower bulbs are on your todo list, it’s time to select them from the huge number of varieties available at your local garden centers or from online/mail order specialty bulb catalogs. The entire assortment can be seen at www.ilsysays.com.

Now you’ve acquired your flower bulbs and you know where you want to plant them. But how exactly? Fortunately, just five easy steps are all it takes.

Step 1: Dig one hole for a group of flower bulbs or make individual holes for planting several single flower bulbs. The size of the flower bulb determines how deep it should be planted. Large flower bulbs (2 inches or larger in diameter) should be planted 6 inches deep and small flower bulbs (1–2 inches) 3 to 4 inches deep.

Step 2: Remove weeds and small stones and then work some garden mold into the soil to improve drainage.

Step 3: Place the flower bulbs gently into the soil with the point on top. Be careful not to press down too hard on the flower bulb, because this could damage it. Large flower bulbs should be planted 3 to 8 inches apart and small bulbs 1 to 3 inches apart.

Step 4: Cover the flower bulbs with the soil dug from the hole.

Step 5: If the soil is very dry, give the flower bulbs some deep watering to get established. o

Soil particles clump together—in what soil scientists call aggregates. These structures can also affect water’s ability to move in soil. Water will move down and through networks of soil pores. Some soil pore walls will retain water as well.

What are Soil Pores?

The different sizes and shapes of pores support many services in soils that ultimately benefit nature and humans

Pores are in almost everything. Look closely enough and you will find them in the wood and bricks of buildings, your skin, and the ground beneath. Soil pores are the spaces between Earth’s solid pieces (rocks, sands, silts, clays, and organic matter). The Soil Science Society of America’s (SSSA) July 1st Soils Matter blog (https://soilsmatter. wordpress.com/2023/07/01/what-aresoil-pores/) explores how different sizes and shapes of pores support many services in soils that ultimately benefit nature and humans.

Networks of differing pores support the large diversity of organisms living under ground to meet their own needs for water, air, food, and shelter.

Some pores are isolated and surrounded by solids on all sides, like a trapped bubble. Most pores are connected to each other and form pathways reaching far into the Earth. These pores are like the shops, social hangouts, roadways, and commercial flyways of the world below our feet. They are where the action happens.

According to Aaron Daigh from the University of Nebraska - Lincoln, the surfaces of pores are particularly active, with some more so than others. Pore walls built from or lined with clays and organic matter provide a fertile area for the trading, transforming, and storing of desirable chemical compounds such as plant nutrients and food for microorganisms. o

Photo by Arina Sukor.

Photo courtesy of iBulb.org.

New Plant Spotlight

Aster x ‘Thunderdome’ PPAF

This hybrid with (Symphiotrichum) Aster novae-angliae and Aster oblongifolius has the purple color from the New England Aster parent and fragrant deer-resistant foliage of Aromatic Aster.

With a mounding habit and rowing 36–42" tall and 24–36" wide, plants start blooming in late August through September and into October with rich purple-colored flowers that have yellow centers. The plants have cleaner disease-resistant foliage than the New England Aster as well.

These easy to grow and hardy plants prefer an average to welldrained soil in full sun, that is also drought-tolerant. They combine nicely with other fall- bloomers and ornamental grasses like Blue Grama Grass (Bouteloua gracilis ‘Honeycomb’) and Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

For more information, contact Brent Horvath, Intrinsic Perennial Gardens, 800-648-2788, or email BrentH@intrinsicperennialgardens. com. o

Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts

• Meet the New Fall Intern

• That Burning Feeling

• Balloon Flower Plant Profile

• Tomato Taste Results

See more Washington Gardener blog posts at WashingtonGardener.blogspot.com o

September–October Garden To-Do List

• Keep an eye out for the first frost date. In Zone 6, it is expected between September 30 and October 30. In Zone 7, it is predicted for between October 15 and November 15.

• Divide and transplant perennials—in particular, peonies and iris.

• Pick apples at a local pick-your-own farm or visit a local farmer’s market.

• Pot up rosemary and chives for over-wintering indoors.

• Take cuttings from coleus and begonias to propagate and overwinter indoors.

• Look out for poison ivy vines, which will turn crimson in the fall and be easy to distinguish from other vines.

• Check your local garden center for end-of-summer bargains.

• Put netting over your pond to prevent the accumulation of leaves and debris.

• Start feeding birds to get them in the habit for this winter.

• Attend a local garden club meeting or plant exchange.

• Pick mature tomatoes and peppers to ripen on your window sills.

• Turn your compost pile weekly and don’t let it dry out. Work compost into your planting beds.

• Remove undeveloped or shriveled fruit from fruit trees and compost them.

• Plant evergreens for winter interest.

• Plant garlic bulbs.

• Collect plant seeds for next year’s planting and for trading at the annual Washington Gardener Magazine Seed Exchanges.

• Plant hardy mums and fall season annuals.

• Fertilize your lawn and re-seed if needed.

• Dig up your Gladiolus, Canna, Caladiums, and other tender bulbs; cut off foliage; let dry for a week; and store for the winter.

• Transplant trees and shrubs.

• Harvest your herbs often and keep them trimmed back to encourage leafy growth.

• Bring in houseplants if you took them outdoors for the summer.

• If your conifers start shedding their needles or your spring bulb foliage starts peeking out of the ground, don’t worry. This is normal for our autumn cycle.

• Leave hummingbird feeders out until October 15.

• Start bulb plantings of early-spring bloomers at the end of the month.

• Watch your pumpkins/squash. Harvest them when their rinds are dull and hard.

• Divide ornamental grasses.

• Cut herbs and flowers for drying indoors.

• Plant strawberries in a site with good drainage for harvesting next spring.

• Look out for slug eggs grouped under sticks and stones—they are the size of BBs and pale in color.

• Plant cover crops in vegetable gardens and annual beds (for example, rye, clover, hairy vetch, and winter peas).

• Begin conditioning the Poinsettias and Christmas cacti to get them ready for the upcoming holiday season.

• Bring Amaryllis indoors before a hard freeze. Repot every other year at this time. Store in a cool, dark place and do not water until flower buds or leaves emerge.

• Your summer annuals will be reviving now with cooler temps and some rain. Cut back any ragged growth and give them some fertilizer. They should put on a good show until the first hard frost. o

TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS

Classes, Events, and Plant Shows/Sales

• Saturdays and Sundays, 10am–2pm through October (weather permitting)

Ask an Expert at the Bonsai Pavilion

Volunteers from the Northern Virginia Bonsai Society will be at the Bonsai Pavilion of Meadowlark Botanic Gardens in Vienna, VA, to share their knowledge of the fascinating and beautiful art of Bonsai. Free with garden admission.

• September 21 and 22

Annual Boxwood Symposium

The 2023 Annual Boxwood Symposium will be held this year in Pottersville, NJ. The symposium will include educational lectures about the care and health of boxwood by specialists in the field, and tours of some fantastic private and public landscapes that would normally be difficult to access. Details at americanboxwoodsociety.org.

• Saturday, September 23, 6–11pm

AHS 50th Gala at River Farm

The Gala will be the perfect opportunity to show support for the American Horticultural Society and River Farm: visit the treasured headquarters; connect with fellow supporters; and enjoy a magical evening of good food, drink, entertainment, and conversation. See https://ahsgardening.org/.

• Saturday, September 23, 7pm

Research on Maryland’s Dying Ash Forests by Dr. Andrew Baldwin

The forest canopies of many tidal freshwater forested wetlands in the Mid-Atlantic region are (or were) dominated by ash trees, which have been decimated by the emerald ash borer. In this talk, Baldwin will present research on the dramatic changes in vegetation in ash-dominated tidal wetlands resulting from emerald ash borer damage. Free. Hosted by the Maryland Native Plant Society. Held via Zoom. Register at http://www.mdflora.org/event5304015.

• Wednesday, September 27, 6:30–7:30pm

Garlic–Plant it Now

Are you a garlic lover? Learn about how to plant and when to harvest garlic, plus

the history and many types of garlic to choose from. Held at the Arlington Central Library, 1015 N. Quincy St., Arlington, VA. Free, no registration required. Details at https://mgnv.org/.

• Saturday, September 30, 10am–2pm Fall Festival & Bulb Sale

Celebrate fall at the U.S. National Arboretum. Stock up on both favorite and unusual bulbs, shop from a small number of local vendors, and try out free nature-based activities for the whole family. There will be 52 different types of bulbs for sale, from alliums, to irises, to tulips. Many of these bulbs are new to the sale and their supplier, so be the first on your block to plant them. Registration is preferred, but not required, at https://www.fona.org/.

• September 30 to November 12 Chrysanthemum Festival at Longwood Gardens

From tiny pom-poms to oversized blooms, more than 5,000 chrysanthemum plants in rich colors of yellow, orange, lavender, maroon, and more transform Longwood’s grand conservatory into an autumnal dream. This amazing display is also Longwood’s most challenging exhibition, combining art and horticulture to bring an ancient artform practiced throughout Japan and China to the gardens. Details and tickets at https://longwoodgardens.org.

• Saturday, September 30, 10am–4pm Seed-Saving Basics and Beyond: A Workshop for All Skill Levels

This workshop is the ultimate suburban seed safari. It is geared toward understanding and exploring seed collecting in natural suburban environments. This is an outdoor event in a covered area in Clinton, MD. Fee: $20. Register at https://www.eventbrite.com/e/seedsaving-basics-and-beyond-a-workshopfor-growers-of-all-skill-levels-tickets703844356417.

• Sunday, October 1, 1–3pm Urban Agriculture Month

October Urban Agriculture Month in Arlington County, VA, shines a spotlight on the significant role urban agriculture plays in the regional and local food system. The event takes place at the Central Library (1015 N. Quincy St.) with

speakers and demonstration sessions. For more information, visit: https:// arlingtonurbanag.org/2023-urban-agriculture-month/.

• Saturday, October 7, 10–11:30am

Elevating Your Garden with Unusual Bulbs, Rhizomes, and Tubers

Tired of the same old daffodil and tulip displays? Explore more than 25 of the lesser-known bulbs, rhizomes, and tubers that flourish in our region throughout each season with Washington Gardener Magazine’s Kathy Jentz. Discover how to force bulbs for the holidays and brighten interiors with early spring blooms. You’ll learn design strategies, plant combinations, and growing tips to create a dynamic garden with these unusual yet versatile plants. Fee: $15. Register at activemontgomery.org.

• Saturday, October 7, 11am–3:30pm

Orchid Auction

A wide variety of species and hybrid orchids will be available, including award-winning and best-of plants, all cultivated and grown with great care by National Capital Orchid Society members. Orchid plants and supplies will also be available for sale. The auction is free and open to the public. Held at the Chevy Chase Christian Church, Large Meeting Room, 8841 Kensington Branch Parkway, Chevy Chase, MD. Details at www.ncos.us.

• Sunday, October 8, 2–4:30pm Rose Bush Auction & Rooting Workshop

Lively rose bush auction, followed by a hands-on rooting workshop hosted by the Arlington Rose Foundation. Members, free. Non-members, $18, which will include all membership benefits through 2023. Held at Columbia Gardens Cemetery, 3411 Arlington Boulevard, Arlington, VA. Details at https:// www.arlingtonrose.org/.

• Wednesday, October 11, 2–3pm

A Life of Learning in the Garden with Holly Shimizu, Exec. Dir. Emerita,

United States Botanic Garden

Looking to create a garden that reflects your personality, lifestyle, and values that incorporates herbs, natives, and more? Whether you’re starting fresh

(with lots of goals) or reimagining an existing property (with some distinct challenges), designing a garden is a process, starting with a look inward at your wants and needs…and outward at your site and surroundings. Shimizu will share design considerations, practical ideas, and how-to’s that enable you to create a successful organic garden that reflects your personal style. Held in person at AHS headquarters at River Farm 7931 East Boulevard Dr., Alexandria, VA. Fee: $15 AHS members/$20 nonmembers. Register at https://ahsgardening.org/lifelong-learning/.

• Wednesday, October 11, 7–8:30pm

HarvestShare’s Monthly Talk: Looking Back to Grow Forward

Another season in the garden is coming to a close. Special guests, Keegan Clifford and Washington Gardener Magazine’s Kathy Jentz, will share their perspectives on this season’s ups and downs. Don’t miss this opportunity to learn from these local experts and share your own experiences so we can all grow forward together in the garden. Free. Held via Zoom. Register at https://www.eventbrite.com/e/harvestshares-monthly-talk-looking-back-togrow-forward-tickets-719767653427.

Looking Ahead

•October 21–22

Lilyhemmer 2023

The 28th fall daylily festival is held in Camp Hill, near Harrisburg PA. Speakers include Ellen Laprise, Don Wolf, Rich Howard, and Peter Donato presenting Steve Todd’s hybridizing program. Peter Donato will show the daylilies of the future. A buffet dinner is included in the registration fee and there is a huge plant raffle, silent auction, and great daylilies for auction.

Note that there is a reduced registration rate for first-time attendees, who each also get a great daylily plant. All details and registration information is at http://ahsregion3.org/Page/LILYHEMMER_2023_FALL_DAYLILY_FESTIVAL.

• Friday October 27, 6:30–8:30pm

Foodie Fridays: Food is Freedom

In the U.S., food and farming have a long history of being tied to freedom— and enslavement. For the final Foodie

Fridays of 2023, speakers will discuss the power rooted in food and farming. Susan Cook will share the story of her fourth great aunt, Alethia Tanner, and how growing food was her pathway from enslavement to freedom. Gardener and edible activist Vanessa Pierre will discuss her advocacy work and how gardening continues to empower communities. Held at Josiah Henson Museum and Park. Fee $10, includes light refreshments, drinks, and a ticket to the museum. Register at https://montgomeryparks.org/events/foodie-fridaysfood-is-freedom/.

• Saturday, October 28, 11am–2pm Garlic Planting Party & Poetry Slam

Fall planting, crafts, and a youth poetry competition in Washington Youth Garden at the U.S. National Arboretum. Details coming soon.

• Thursday, November 30, 6:30-8pm Garden

Book Club Meeting

We will discuss Orchid Muse: A History of Obsession in Fifteen Flowers by Erica Hannickel. You can order it new or used at our Amazon link: https://amzn.to/3Yoo42b or at our Bookshop store: https://bookshop. org/a/79479/9780393867282. In the December 2022 issue of Washington Gardener Magazine, reviewer Jim Dronenburg wrote, “... even if you never intend to have, wear, or grow an orchid, it is a fascinating read.”

The Washington Gardener Magazine’s Garden Book Club meets quarterly via Zoom and is free and open to all. Register at https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZAkc-ygrzMiH9z6ekl2ip3w n8PLuyFrG9r9.

Event Listing Updates

See updated event listings on the Washington Gardener discussion list. Join by emailing WashingtonGardenersubscribe@googlegroups.com

How to Submit Events

To submit an event for this listing, email washingtongardenermagazine@gmail. com with “Event” in the subject line.

Our next deadline is October 5 for the October 2023 issue, for events taking place after October 15. o

The Urban Garden: 101 Ways to Grow Food and Beauty in the City is all about small-space gardening solutions!

By Kathy Jentz and

Teresa Speight

Published by Cool Springs Press/Quarto Homes

Order it today at: https://amzn.to/3yiLPKU

GardenDC Podcast

The GardenDC podcast is all about gardening in the greater Washington, DC, and Mid-Atlantic area. The program is hosted by Kathy Jentz, editor of Washington Gardener Magazine, and features guest experts in local and national horticulture. The latest episodes include interviews with experts on Garden Myths, Begonias, Wild Bees, and Adaptive Gardening. You can listen online at https:// washingtongardener.blogspot.com/ or on Spotify, Apple, etc. o

Franklin Tree

By Kathy Jentz

The Franklin Tree (Franklinia alatamaha) is a small ornamental tree or large shrub. It is native to the southeastern United States and is hardy to USDA Zones 5 to 8. It is also known as Gordonia alatamaha or Gordonia pubescens.

It was named after founding father Ben Franklin. John Bartram and his son William discovered Franklinia growing along the banks of the Altamaha River in Georgia. The tree is no longer found in the wild, but is available in cultivation thanks to the original seeds gathered by the Bartrams.

Franklinia has a reputation for being difficult to grow, so it deserves a place of pride in a collector’s garden. It can be propagated from seeds or cuttings taken in early fall or by layering the lower branches.

The fragrant flowers bloom in mid- to late-summer and are an open Camellia-like blossom with bright-yellow stamens at the center of a ring of creamy-white, curved petals. It is in the tea family and is also related to Stewartia. The fall foliage color is attractive as well.

It prefers to be planted in part sun to part shade in rich but well-draining soils. It is susceptible to wilt and root rot. This tree resents being moved, so do not disturb the roots after planting it. o

Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener Franklin Tree photo by Devin Dotson, U.S. Botanic Garden.

Do I Need to Worry About Hammerhead Worms?

By Carol Allen

Should you worry about hammerhead worms? The immediate answer is, probably not. However, as our climate warms up, they might become more of an issue in the Washington, DC, metropolitan area.

Hammerhead worms enjoyed a bit of sensationalistic press earlier this summer after a reporter from the Washington Post encountered one at his home in Virginia. They are by no means common, but iNaturalist records 56 observations in Virginia over the last seven years, Maryland only has three since 2019, and there were none in the District.

Just what is this beast and what do we need to know?

Hammerhead worms are members of the phylum, Platyhelminthes, better known as flatworms. Most members of that phylum are aquatic, but the hammerhead worm of our concern can be referred to as a land planarian because it is fully terrestrial. It can be about a foot in length and is brown with stripes. It has a very distinctive hammershaped head.

The land planarian that has been identified in our region is Bipalium kewense. This invertebrate was probably native to southeast Asia, but is now found all over the world. Its preferred environment is warm and moist, and it is found more commonly in the tropics and subtropics. It was first discovered

in American greenhouses in 1901 and is now found in greenhouses in many northern and central states. It seems to be spreading up the Atlantic Coast and has been observed overwintering in the northeast in sheltered sites. This invasive species moves throughout the world in potted plant material.

Hammerhead worms feed on earthworms, land snails, slugs, and insect larvae, and are cannibalistic. Some experts are concerned that if their population numbers increase, they can greatly reduce earthworm populations. They have been known to devastate earthworm farms. Maryland has a diminishing native earthworm population that is already feeling the pressure from imported nightcrawlers and Asiatic jumping worms (see “Where have all the Native Earthworms Gone?” in the August 2016 issue of Washington Gardener). Native earthworms co-evolved with the plants in this region. They break down leaf litter so that the system regenerates rather than degrades.

Perhaps more importantly, do hammerhead worms pose a threat to the health and well-being of humans and their pets?

Hammerhead worms subdue their prey by secreting an abundant amount of mucus that contains a neurotoxin, tetrodotoxin. Getting that neurotoxin containing mucus into your eyes or mucus membranes could cause a

localized reaction. A physician should be consulted if the reaction is severe. Likewise, if a pet should encounter a hammerhead worm, they might react to the mucus. Contact your veterinarian in that case.

If you encounter one of these distinctive hammer-headed worms, wear gloves to avoid getting the mucus on your hands and slip them into a sealable plastic bag. They can be killed with the application of salt or alcohol, or being placed in either the sun or the freezer for a period of time. Do not cut them into pieces because that form of asexual reproduction is the one most often use by hammerhead worms.

Your chances of encountering these strange and creepy flatworms are unlikely. The worms are most active at night, though they might be spotted escaping the water-logged soil after a heavy rain. They cannot tolerate dry conditions and high humidity is essential to their survival. They are usually found under rocks, logs, or similar debris. They are reported to be more abundant in the spring and fall.

Currently, they are not being reported to any agency. A photo logged into iNaturalist will add to the growing population data. They are an invasive species, so it is recommended that they be dispatched by one of the methods described above o

Carol Allen describes herself as a committable plant-a-holic. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the horticulture industry, with a special interest in plant pests and diseases; is a Licensed Pesticide Applicator in the state of Maryland; and is an ISACertified Arborist. She can be contacted at carolallen@erols.com.

EDDMapS. 2023. Early Detection & Distribution Mapping System. University of Georgia–Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health. Available online at http://www.eddmaps.org/.

Hammerhead Worm (Bipalium kewense) photo by Jean-Lou Justine, Leigh Winsor, Delphine Gey, Pierre Gros, and Jessica Thévenot, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

How to Grow Beets: Best in Fall

By Barbara Melera

Native to the coastal regions of southern Europe, the beet has been cultivated since prehistoric times for its green tops (beet greens or chard). Not until the 1500s was the vegetable cultivated for its roots.

Beets (Beta vulgaris) can be sown in the early spring for a summer crop and mid- to late summer for a fall crop. In the spring, plant as soon as the ground can be worked. Soil should be deeply spaded before planting. Beets are best grown in full sun and sandy loam soil. Beets grown in dense clay soils can be tough and stringy while beets grown in rich soils tend to go to seed quickly. Rows should be 18 inches apart. When the seedlings are 1 inch high, thin them, leaving 6 inches between plants.

Beets become sweeter with exposure to frosts. Adding lime to the soil before planting will also sweeten beets. They should be harvested young and small or they tend to become woody.

Beets do best when planted in the second season (cool season or fall crop), they are sweeter, healthier, and more delicious. They should be left in the ground until they have been exposed to several frosts—at least three

of them. Beets take from 65-95 days to mature in the fall. Beets planted in early August will be ready for harvest from mid-October to late November.

The “second season” garden is every bit as exciting and rewarding as your spring garden. It just comes with a different set of challenges and rewards. You will find that weeding is not as much of an issue, bugs are not as much of an issue, and watering is not as much of an issue, although a freak early frost can destroy all of your hard work.

If you are considering planting for a fall and early winter vegetable crop, and you have never done second season planting, I suggest you start with beets. They are one of the easiest second season crops to grow. They are also truly one of the most rewarding crops you will ever plant.

For a fall crop, in Zones 5-7 beets should be planted from July 15-August 31, in Zones 8-10 beets should be planted from October 15-November 15. Beets, like kale, are incredibly easy to grow from seed. Turn your garden soil, rake it smooth, and then take your finger and draw a line in the soil

approximately 1 inch deep. Sprinkle the seed along the line and cover with soil. Soak the soil and keep it moist until germination occurs, which will happen in approximately 10-14 days in the summer. Once the seedlings are 2 inches high, thin them to 3 to 4 inches apart. Fertilize with a high phosphorus fertilizer every two weeks for six weeks (three applications).

Best Beets

Here are a few great beet varieties to grow.

• Detroit Dark Red

‘Detroit Dark Red’ (pictured above), Although not the oldest beet still in cultivation, is the “Grand Old Man” of beets. This beet has an interesting introduction history. The beet was developed from a popular French variety known as ‘European Early Blood’ and in 1892, was introduced into the United States by at least three seedhouses all at the same time. ‘Detroit Dark Red’ became an overnight success because of its great flavor and its resistance to mildew.

‘Detroit Dark Red’ takes about 70 days to mature in the fall. In the spring,

it takes 55 days. It will get woody if left in the ground too long, but like other beets, it can be stored in slightly damp sand in a cool area for several months.

It is incredible to realize that the ‘Detroit Dark Red’ Beet is 128 years old, and is still the most popular variety sold today. This is truly one outstanding heirloom!

‘Chioggia’ (pictured at right) is a beloved Italian heirloom with alternating pink and white concentric rings when sliced. The tops are bright-green with pink-striped stems. This beet is very fast-growing, long-standing in the fall, and has very sweet flavor.

Easy Roasted Beets

Former Washington Gardener intern Anastazja Kolodziej shared this recipe for roasted beets on our blog.

Ingredients:

· Beets, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces

· Olive oil

· Salt

· Pepper

Steps:

· Heat the oven to 420 degrees.

· Arrange the cut beets in a baking sheet or dish and toss with oil, salt, and pepper.

· Roast for 30 minutes or until soft and tender. Serve immediately.

‘Detroit Golden’ (pictured above) is an improved variety of an ancient beet known as ‘Golden Beet’ and grown in the U.S. before 1828. The orange-yellow roots are tender and sweet, and remain so even when harvested late. The tops are also sweet and tasty. Golden Beets have a lower germination than other beets, so plant the seeds more thickly.

‘Lutz’s Green Leaf’ (pictured at right) is primarily grown for its tops, although its roots are some of the best for fall harvesting and storage. The reddish-purple roots do not get woody nor do they lose their sweetness. o

• Chioggia

• Detroit Golden

• Lutz’s Green Leaf

Barbara Melera is president of Harvesting History (www.harvesting-history.com), a company that sells horticultural and agricultural products, largely of the heirloom variety, along with garden tools and equipment.

Fall-Planted Cover Crops Provide Many Benefits to Gardens

Put your garden to work over winter by planting a cover crop this fall. Covering the soil with plants that are turned into the soil or smothered and allowed to decompose in spring provides many benefits.

Fall-planted cover crops protect the soil from erosion over winter and reduce stormwater runoff into nearby waterways and storm sewers. They also help reduce weeds by forming a dense mat that increases organic matter, adds nutrients, and improves the soil quality for your plants. These crops also help conserve soil moisture, and many provide welcome habitats for pollinators and other beneficial insects.

Oats, winter rye, winter wheat, crimson clover, and hairy vetch are common fall-planted cover crops. The crimson clover and hairy vetch are legumes that can add a lot of nitrogen to the soil when they decompose. Try combining these with non-legumes when possible. Consider purchasing a cover crop mix like the True Leaf Market notill pollinator-friendly cover crop mix, which contains both and helps support pollinators.

Most cover crops go dormant over winter and resume growth in the spring. Annuals like daikon radishes and oats are killed by cold winter temperatures. This makes oats a good choice if you want to get an early start on planting in spring.

Plant fall cover crops at least four weeks before the first killing frost to give them time to establish. Cereal rye is an exemption and can be planted right up to the first frost. You can plant the whole garden bed or just the area between vegetables that are still growing.

By Melinda Myers

Remove any weeds, plants, and mulch when planting garden beds. Loosen the soil and rake it smooth before seeding. Just remove the mulch, loosen, and rake the soil between the rows of actively growing vegetables when planting cover crops in these spaces.

Check the seed packet for the amount of seed needed to cover the area you are planting. Spread the seed over the prepared soil by hand or with a broadcast spreader and gently rake the seeds into the soil. Make it easier to spread tiny seeds evenly by mixing them with compost and then spreading them. Once the seeds are planted, gently water using a fine mist.

incorporate the residue into the soil or plant your vegetables through the dead plant remains.

Avoid working wet soil—that can result in compaction, hard-as-rock clods, and take years to repair the damage. Do a moisture test before working the soil. Grab a handful of soil and gently squeeze. If it breaks into smaller pieces with a tap of your finger, it is ready to work. If it remains in a mud ball, wait a few days.

Two weeks or more after the cover crop has been killed or tilled into the soil, you can begin planting. Planting any earlier can result in nutrient deficiencies that will require a light spring fertilization.

Annual plants will be killed by cold winter temperatures, but the perennial cover crops will put on vigorous growth in late winter or early spring. Suppress this growth and kill the cover crop before it sets seed and at least two to four weeks before planting your garden. This gives microorganisms time to decompose the plant residue and avoid nitrogen deficiencies in spring plantings.

In springtime, use your mower or weed whip to cut the cover crop to the ground. You can till the residue into the soil at that time or cover the area with a black tarp or weed barrier for at least two weeks. Remove the tarp, then

Adding cover crops to your gardening routine will improve the soil and plant growth, and is good for the environment. Like any new gardening practice, it can take time to adapt it to your space, climate, and gardening style. The cover crop growing guide at trueleafmarket.com can help. With time and experience, growing cover crops can soon become a part of your gardening routine. o

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series, and the nationally syndicated “Melinda’s Garden Moment” TV and radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by True Leaf Market for her expertise to write this article Her website is www.MelindaMyers. com.

Pictured here are fall-planted cover crops that protect the soil from erosion over winter. Photo courtesy of True Leaf Market.

The Ecological Farm: A Minimalist No-Till, No-Spray, Selective-Weeding, Grow-Your-Own-Fertilizer System for Organic Agriculture

Author: Helen Atthowe

Publisher: Chelsea Green Publishing

List Price: $44.95

Order Links: https://amzn.to/3RqUiIT and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781645021810

Reviewer: Marsha Douma

In The Ecological Farm, Helen Atthowe shares her 35+ years of observations and experimentation in organic farming and gardening. Her careful recording of which techniques have been most effective throughout these years are summarized in this book.

Her consistent finding is that prioritizing nourishing the soil all year round creates the healthiest and most vigorous growth. As a bonus, in her experience, healthy plants also have some ability to defend themselves against insect invasion and/or diseases. Her experiences as an organic farmer have convinced her that healthy soil, which she defines as soil full of invertebrates, microbes, and fungi, will naturally provide the nutrients the plants needs at their roots, where they can be readily absorbed, eliminating the need for additional fertilizers.

The first half of the book describes in detail her minimalist approach to farming, which means little to no tilling, selective weeding, and growing your own fertilizer. But if problems do occur, in the second half, she comprehensively identifies a wide range of issues crop

by crop, fruit tree by fruit tree, offering solutions that don’t involve using commercial insecticides.

Creating a reliably reproducible “system” to “manage [the] ecological relationships” inherent in a garden is the author’s objective. Many garden writers these days advocate similar principles. What makes this book somewhat different is her recipe for how to do this. To that end, Chapter One sets out her 10 comprehensive principles formulated to work holistically with nature and thereby safely grow an abundance of the food we need. Many of these principles seem obvious, others less so, but they all center around building, planting into, protecting and leaving the soil, undisturbed as much as possible. The author recommends not worrying about the proper fertilization numbers. Instead, she wants us to focus on returning carbon to the soil. This works because the ratio of carbon to nitrogen is high in plants.

“Carbon is what plants are made of… and it provides soil microbes the energy to do their job. Nitrogen …makes up the proteins in plants. Both are vital, but traditionally farmers have focused on nitrogen…Soil microbes do best when growing roots are present [in the soil] and secreting carbon and plant exudates into the soil year round…Many of the most important soil microorganisms require root associations, which are destroyed by soil disturbances such as tillage and weed cultivation.”

Providing enough carbon throughout the year is easy to do by using what she calls “plant residues.” Chop and drop, living mulches, chipped wood, and cover crops, in the author’s experience, allow the soil to provide all the nutrients the plants need. Atthowe is building the soil from the bottom up, not from the top down.

The growth of organic agriculture—a brief history.

In the early 1900s, some farmers in Germany and Australia, when industrial agriculture began, who objected to the use of synthetic nitrogen fertilizers and early pesticides on what was to become our food.

From 1930 to 1950 is considered the start of the organic movement in England and the United States. The

loss of the top soil of approximately 35 million acres during the Dust Bowl, 1930–1936, started a conversation about understanding the land and treated it differently.

The most prominent British proponents of organic gardening were Gabrielle, Louise, and Albert Howard, who were sent to India to study botany, and instead studied their systems of how all waste was recycled and cover crops were used to protect and nourish the soil. When they returned to England, they advanced these ideas. In the United States, the most prominent proponent was J. I. Rodale, who founded and published his Organic Farming and Gardening magazine in 1942. Rodale was instrumental in trying to convince people to use natural means to build a healthy soil, rather than relying on synthetic fertilizers.

For probably thousands of years, gardeners and farmers used manure as a fertilizer. In the early 1800s, ground-up bones became commonly used as well. In the mid-19th century, the discipline of soil chemistry and plant nutrition developed. A German scientist, Justus von Liebig, introduced the Law of the Minimum, a principle that is still widely held. His law states that the growth of plants is not determined by the total amount of nutrients available, but by the least available nutrient.

It was also postulated that since plants would inevitably deplete the soil of nutrients, replacements were essential. These ideas resulted in farmers and gardeners thinking they had to add the proper amount of fertilizer all the time to be sure there was always enough.

During World War 2, there was a shortage of nitrogen fertilizer since it was being used for ammunition, and farmers who had started to rely on synthetic fertilizers, instead of soil building, had nutrient poor soil. Then, after the war, nitrogen fertilizer became relatively inexpensive since the factories producing nitrogen for ammunition in the Midwest were converted to civilian uses. As the price declined, its use increased.

The 1940s were the beginnings of wide spread use of insecticides,

including DDT—first used in 1939. It was felt the various insecticides were desperately needed to combat insectborne infections affecting soldiers in the war. At the time, the harm to the environment and the long-term health of the citizenry were not considered, or were thought minimal and acceptable. But there were critics of the use of insecticides—most prominently, Rachel Carson who published her book Silent Spring in 1962.

An interesting response to the harm of pesticides, is the development of GMO seeds, which have been modified by adding a protein that causes the insects who eat the plants grown from these seeds to die. The developers of these seeds assure us that nothing can possibly go wrong.

The Ecological Farm builds on the ideas that came before it. How fortunate we are to have so many good books to choose from in advocating organic, sustainable growing practices. Who will find this particular book valuable? Any gardener. Even for the reader who is familiar with organic gardening practices, the extensive second part of the book, about how to organically grow and trouble-shoot a wide selection of crops, is a valuable, carefully researched reference to have on hand. o

Marsha Douma is a retired dentist and lifelong gardener who also enjoys swimming, tennis, and playing the piano. She lives in Rockville, MD.

The Preserving Garden

Author: Jo Turner

Publisher: Thames and Hudson

List Price: $29.95

Order Links: https://amzn.to/48gY51r and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781760763824

Reviewer: Stacey Evers

We’ve had a strange growing season: drought in June followed by two months that were cooler and wetter than normal, and then—as if Mother Nature suddenly remembered her summertime duties—record-breaking highs in September. Cucumbers, historically my highest-yielding and least-problematic crop, utterly failed this year. Tomatoes went on strike for six weeks.

But now, harvests are picking up.

Peppers are popping, tomatoes are blushing, and fruitful figs are feeding my family and all the neighborhood birds. I want to make the revived 2023 garden last as long as possible.

Luckily, Australian author Jo Turner has written The Preserving Garden, a fun-to-read and easy-to-follow primer about pickling, pureeing, bottling, roasting, and more. Illustrator Ashlea O’Neill’s bold, colorful, 2D eye candy adds to the book’s breezy, page-turning style.

Turner, who lives on 50 acres in Australia, grew up preserving fruits and vegetables with her mother and aunt at her grandmother’s table. Canning peaches from a cousin’s orchard was “a production line and a family ritual,” Turner says, recalling the sounds, smells, and sights of the annual process.

Preserving harvests “doesn’t need to be a factory-sized operation,” though, Turner notes, and she backs it up: Her recipes are for smaller batches that can be processed in a stockpot or large saucepan, no preserving kit required. However, most of the recipes can be scaled up by gardeners with larger crops.

A well-organized table of contents and index allow readers to use this book as a reference guide if they don’t want to read it straight through, but the clean layout lends itself to a quick skim. Preserving the Garden is divided into five chapters.

How to Preserve: In a handful of

introductory pages, Turner explains different preserving methods with clear, simple instructions. She includes the scientific explanations of the roles of enzymes, yeast, bacteria, and mold but you don’t have to remember high school biology to understand her.

Preserved Veggies and Preserved Fruit: These chapters comprise the meat of the book, so to speak. Turner includes 43 plant profiles, each with its own page and a streamlined sidebar of growing tips, such as how much sun the plant needs, whether it’s frost-tolerant and, for fruit, what year it first bears a harvest. Turner recommends specific varieties that are well-suited to certain preservation methods, as well as fruits, veggies, or herbs that are good flavor companions. (Before buying the recommended varieties, make sure that they’re suitable to the Mid-Atlantic U.S.).

Each profile is followed by recipes for that crop, such as gherkins made with cucumbers or zucchini, ginger beer, roasted garlic paste, raspberry vinegar, and apricot chutney. The usual suspects—tomatoes, cucumbers, peaches—make the cut, but the author also includes plants that often get less attention, such as capers, fennel, and mulberries.

Recipes are in metric measurements, so U.S. readers may need to rely on the conversion chart on page 16. Americans will also have to make two other adjustments; Turner uses a 20 milliliter (mL), or 4-teaspoon tablespoon, but a US tablespoon is 3 teaspoons (14.7 mL). The book relies on 250 mL cup measures, but U.S. cups are 240 mL.

The Preserving Garden chapter sums up garden basics like soil, composting, and plant nutrients. Turner’s explanations are to-the-point, offering just the basics of what a gardener needs to know. Beware, however, of the assertion that a complete fertilizer with even amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium is always necessary. Phosphorous and potassium are often sufficiently present in the soil, and overapplication can have harmful environmental consequences. Use a soil test first to determine what nutrients are deficient in your soil.

Turner also refers to climate zones. In the U.S., those zones are called plant hardiness zones. If you don’t already know yours, you can do an online search for the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. (Most Washington Gardener readers are in zones 7a or 7b.)

The final chapter, Preserving Charts, consists of six pages that summarize the highlights of the plant profiles: flavor companions, suitable preservation techniques, how to use the preserves, and the required timing if you use the water bath method.

At the very end of the book are four blank pages divided into rows and two columns, perfect for your own recordkeeping. This addition shows great foresight on Turner’s part. There’s a lot to learn and many things to try out in The Preserving Garden, and you’ll want to keep notes. o

Stacey Evers is the urban agricultural specialist for the Northern Virginia Soil and Water Conservation District and board chair of Hands On Harvests, a nonprofit that teaches people how to grow food, manages community gardens, and helps gardeners donate surplus harvest.

The Halloween Hare: A Story for Gardeners of All Ages

Author: Carol J. Michel

Illustrator: Ty J. Hayden

Publisher: Gardenangelist Books

List Price: $16.99

Order Link: https://amzn.to/3sSLlO9 and https://bookshop.org/

a/79479/9781733500913

Reviewer: Kathy Jentz

Disclosure: This reviewer is a friend of the author of this book.

Halloween is my favorite holiday and there are few children’s books on the topic—even fewer that are gardeningrelated—so I was pleased to hear about the coming release of the Halloween Hare in time for this year’s holiday season.

The story follows a rabbit who waits all year to visit gardens on Halloween to search for leftover Easter candy. He collects the candy with his friends the spiders, bats, and mice.

The illustrations are simple and colorful. My favorite page in the book depicts the journey of the informa-

tion collected about gardens from the Halloween Hare to his cousin at the North Pole, the Christmas Cottontail. It starts off with the bats, then is passed on the crows, and finally gets delivered to the snow owls.

Bonus: There are a few blank pages in the back to add your own Halloween Hare illustrations.

This book is a companion to The Christmas Cottontail, written and published in 2019 by the same author. If that one tickled your fancy, I think you will want to get this one as well. You might also buy a few copies of both books to give out to budding young gardeners and naturalists on your holiday gift lists o

GROUNDCOVER REVOLUTION IS OUT

By Kathy Jentz

Published by Cool Springs Press

Order it today at: https://amzn.to/3IlYHYL

“Groundcover Revolution is must-have book for anyone who is interested in having less lawn, fewer weeds, and reduced mulching. The properties charts will save the reader time and money, the pictures provide inspiration, while the detailed plant portraits give the focused information needed for creating beautiful, functional landscapes.”

―C.L. Fornari, GardenLady.com

Love Reading?

The book reviews in this issue are by volunteer members of the Washington Gardener Reader Panel. To join the Washington Gardener Volunteer Reader Panel, send an email with your name and address to: KathyJentz@gmail.com. o

Note: These book reviews include links to Amazon.com and BookShop. org for ordering them. Washington Gardener Magazine may receive a few cents from each order placed after you click on these links.

Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener

HOUSE FINCH

been easy for our transplanted finches. In February 1994, backyard bird watchers in Maryland and Washington, DC, noticed something strange. House Finches were showing up at feeders with eyes that were red, crusty, and swollen. The birds had a highly contagious conjunctivitis that gradually spread all across the country.

After the initial period when the disease hit and populations declined, the disease occurrence tailed off and populations leveled off at smaller sizes. With fewer House Finches, the disease couldn’t spread as easily. It was one of the first large-scale examples of a disease regulating the population dynamics of its host, according to the Cornell Lab.

By Cecily Nabors

With a flash of red and a burst of twittery song, a male House Finch (shown above) announces his presence. This cheerful small member of the finch family is a familiar garden spirit. His female counterpart is more subdued, dressed in gray-brown streaky plumage (see photo on page 3). Both male and female finches have conical seed-crushing bills and notched tails.

Their scientific name, Haemorhous mexicanus, provides a clue to their origin: House Finches are native to Mexico and the western United States. In our area, they are transplants, introduced to our side of the Rockies as caged birds for pets. When sales didn’t go well, a group was released on Long Island in 1940, according to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. The rest is history: The finches thrived and are year-round residents in all the eastern states.

One reason House Finches have prospered is that they have adapted well to living around humans. While they often choose to nest in pine and spruce trees, they will also nest on window ledges, in the ivy on buildings, and in other house areas. The chief criteria for a suitable site seem to be a firm support and at least some overhead cover. What finer

place than your decorative front-door wreath or a hanging basket?

Territory-claiming and courtship start early in the year, with the husky whistle and trill of the male sounding in the January air. The males’ bright colors on chest and rump often determine their mating success, because females prefer the brightest red males. The red comes from pigment in their food; perhaps females think that a redder male is likely to be a better provider of food for the nestlings.

A female House Finch constructs her delicate nest-cup of grasses, feathers, thin roots, and twigs, plus found items like wool and string. Her plain coloration benefits her on the nest. The pair may raise three or four broods a season. Both parents feed the young. Most avian hatchlings are fed soft-bodied insects, but finch babies are seed-eaters from the start, thriving on a diet of regurgitated seeds.

As adults, House Finches eat many different seeds, buds, and fruits. They are frequent visitors to bird feeders, where they prefer black oil sunflower and safflower seeds.

Observers who participate in Project Feeder Watch, run by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, know that things have not

How are they doing now? House Finch numbers are stabilizing, as shown by the Breeding Bird Survey and other national bird counts. Many birds recovered and developed immunity, and responsible birders learned to wash feeders often to limit the spread of the disease. However, people like me who participate in Project Feeder Watch must still report the occasional finding of finches with crusty eyes. You can check out the data and/or sign up to join this great citizen science project at feederwatch.org.

Here’s a riddle: when is a finch not a House Finch? When it’s a Purple Finch. Roger Tory Peterson described this bird as being like a sparrow “dipped in raspberry juice.” Telling the two finches apart isn’t always easy. Purple Finches, like the male shown directly above, don’t breed in our area but migrate through. Watch your feeders in late October: you may see both finches together.

House Finches may not be native to our part of the country, but they’ve settled in and made our gardens home. o

Cecily Nabors is a retired software manager who has been watching birds for much of her life. She publishes the Good-Natured Observations blog at cecilynabors.com.

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Jentz Prints

Antique Botanical Prints for the decorator, collector, connoisseur, and art lover.

Jentz Prints can be purchased most weekends (weather-dependent) at the world-famous Eastern Market

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