AUGUST 2015 VOL. 10 NO. 6
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Autumn Edibles Planting Chart Your Garden Tasks To-Do List Neat Native: Yellow Star Grass Local Garden Events Calendar
8 Steps to Reduce Garden Water Usage Curbing a Coneflower Catastrophe 10 Things You Didn’t Know You CAN Compost!
Hashtag Mysteries Revealed
Top 5 Local
Butterfly Houses
GoGardeners Garden Coaching
Elise Stigliano Garden Coach elise@gogardeners.com • 301-518-8333
www.gogardeners.com
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Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the greater DC region. Call 301.588.6894 or email wgardenermag@aol.com for available dates, rates, and topics.
Visit DCGardens.com RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE DISCRIMINATING GARDENER AND COLLECTOR Barry Glick Sunshine Farm and Gardens 696 Glicks Road Renick, WV 24966, USA Email: barry@sunfarm.com
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A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round gold mine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins. Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.
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Butterfly houses provide a unique experience to interact with both native and exotic butterflies, but also important learning opportunities for kids and adults.
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Win passes to Brookside Gardens Wings of Fancy. The contest entry deadline is 5pm on August 31.
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Let’s talk trash! Composting goes beyond just mixing leaves and grass clippings. Here’s a list of 10 common waste materials you may not have known that you can add to your compost pile. Got any additions to this list? We’d love to hear them!
FEATURES and COLUMNS BOOKreviews 14-16 Everyday Roses, Honey Bees, Less Water, Heirloom Fruits, Garden Problem Solver DAYtrip 6-7 Butterfly Houses EDIBLEharvest 18-19 Fall Planting Chart and Guide GOINGnative 22 Yellow Star Grass HORThappenings 22 UDC Green Roof, PPA, Waterlily and Lotus Fest, IGC East, MoCo Farm Tour, Green Pro Field Day INSECTindex 17 Coneflower Pests NEIGHBORnetwork 20-21 Michael Mastrota, American U. NEWPLANTspotlight 11 Carex ‘Everillo’ SPECIALfeature 9 10 Things You Can Compost TIPStricks 10 Using Less Garden Water, When to Plant Wildflower Seeds, New Arlington Cemetery Arboretum
DEPARTMENTS
ADVERTISINGindex BLOGlinks EDITORletter GARDENcontest LOCALevents MONTHLYtasklist NEXTissue RESOURCESsources
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ON THE COVER
A Queen butterfly (Danaus gilippus) at Brookside Gardens Wings of Fancy exhibit in Wheaton, MD.
Echinacea are subject to several disease and insect pest problems such as stem rots, powdery mildew, anthracnose, and Aster Yellows as well as damage from aphids, Japanese beetles, and Eriophyid mites.
In our September 2015 issue:
Low-Maintenance Perennials
Dr. Richard Olsen of the USNA
and much more...
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EDITORletter
Credits Kathy Jentz Editor/Publisher & Advertising Sales Washington Gardener 826 Philadelphia Ave. Silver Spring, MD 20910 Phone: 301.588.6894 wgardenermag@aol.com www.washingtongardener.com Call today to place your ad with us! Ruth E. Thaler-Carter Proofreader Daven Desai Gaby Galvin Marissa Paiano Interns
Your editor, Kathy Jentz, at the White House Historical Association’s Rose Garden exhibit. Photo by Anne Hardman.
#WTH are Hashtags? Last issue, I discussed using online tools like Twitter to keep in touch with our readers and to coordinate live Tweet-ups for local gardeners. This led to several requests for more information about how to use that most puzzling of social media tools -- the hashtag. Put simply, hashtags are phrases, words, or abbreviations that follow the # sign. Note that they cannot contain spaces or punctuation. They are usually limited to the 26 letters of the alphabet, but occasionally contain numerals. The use of hashtags is common on Twitter, Instagram, and Google+. They are starting to be used more on Facebook and other social media as well. On Twitter, hashtags came about for two reasons. First, when you are limited to 140 characters, any shorthand codes are a big help. Second, with the millions of tweets going out every minute, hashtags allow you to set up an easy keyword search the exact phrases you want to follow. Hashtags can define a community. For instance, #gardenbloggers is added to posts where either garden bloggers want to let each other know about something or someone is trying to reach that specific audience. Hashtags can be humorous. The hashtag #isitspringyet (is it spring yet?) was common earlier this year as people posted snow photos in the Mid-Atlantic states. If I see a really bad pruning job, I’ll post a picture of it along with the hashtag #gardencrime and I know my fellow hort friends will appreciate it. Here is a list of hashtags for local gardeners that I recommend you use regularly and that you do a daily/weekly search on to see what other folks are chatting about: #GardenDC, #Gardening, #Garden, #UrbanAg, #SchoolGarden, #Plants, #Flowers, #Trees, #Seeds, #Green, #OccupyGardens #PlantTags, #Greenhouse, #Marketing, #Grower, #GardenCenter, #Horticulture, #Midatlantic, #DelMarVa, #MD, #VA, #DE, #PA, #NJ, #WV ,#DC #WDC, and #WashDC. Be sure to retweet, favorite/like, and respond to those posts you find to be informative or funny. After all, the point of social media is to be social! Happy gardening!
Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, wgardenermag@aol.com 4
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Cover price: $4.99 Back issues: $6.00 Subscription: $20.00 Address corrections should be sent to the address above. • Washington Gardener Blog: www.washingtongardener.blogspot.com • Washington Gardener Archives: http://issuu.com/washingtongardener • Washington Gardener Discussion Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ WashingtonGardener/ • Washington Gardener Twitter Feed: www.twitter.com/WDCGardener • Washington Gardener is a womanowned business. We are proud to be members of: · Garden Writers Association · Think Local First DC · DC Web Women · Green America Magazine Leaders Network · Green America Business Network To order reprints, contact Wright’s Reprints at 877.652.5295, ext. 138. Volume 10, Number 6 ISSN 1555-8959 © 2015 Washington Gardener All rights reserved. Published quarterly. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission. This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that the information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to legality, completeness, or technical accuracy. All uncredited photos in this issue are © Kathy Jentz.
READERcontt
Reader Contest
Local Gardening Calendar
Each month includes a list of what to do in the garden for local DC-MD-VA and Mid-Atlantic gardeners, along with a gorgeous photo of a seasonal flower from a local public garden collection in our area. Go to http://www.cafepress.com/ washgardener to order this new calendar for gifts and to treat yourself! Be sure to note on your order what month you want the calendar to start with. This calendar is a keeper that you can use for years!
For our August 2015 Washington Gardener Reader Contest, Washington Gardener is giving away the five sets of passes to the Brookside Gardens Wings of Fancy live butterfly exhibit in Wheaton, MD (each set has two passes and is a $16 value). Running daily through October 25, from 10am to 4pm, Brookside Gardens South Conservatory features live butterflies. Come witness the butterfly life cycle as tiny eggs hatch into crawling, chewing caterpillars, which then encase themselves in jewel-like chrysalides and emerge as sipping, flying adult butterflies. Learn about the best annual and tropical plants, and hardy shrubs that are used as nectar sources, to attract butterflies to your own garden. See more details at http://www. montgomeryparks.org/brookside/wings_of_fancy.shtm. To enter to win a set of passes, send an email to WashingtonGardener@rcn.com by 5pm on Monday, August 31, with “Wings” in the subject line and in the body of the email. Tell us which was your favorite article in this August 2015 issue of the magazine and why. Please also include your full name and mailing address. The pass winners will be announced and notified on September 1.
Caption Contest
We asked our Facebook page followers: How would you caption this image of a Japanese Beetle on a Magnolia flower at Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, MD? Look for more monthly caption contests at the Facebook.com/ WashingtonGardenerMagazine page.
Winning Captions: “From the Carpenters’ song...’I’m up on top of the world, looking down on Creation...’.” ~ Tom Mann “How great thou smell Magnolia...sincerely J.B.” ~ Tien Budiman “The new garden power couple — BugNolia.” ~ Julie Blackwell “Oh, dear me, Miss Japanese Beetle. Come swim in my bubbly eternity pool” ~ Diane LaSauce “The only thing that separates us from the animals is our ability to accessorize.” ~ H.B. quoting Clairee from “Steel Magnolias”
Magnolia photo by Kathy Jentz.
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DAYtrip
Top 5
Butterfly Houses in Our Region Text by Gaby Galvin Photos by Kathy Jentz
Looking for a fun day trip to finish off the last few weeks of summer? Consider visiting a butterfly house! These seasonal exhibits are sure to provide you with an educational and beautiful experience, regardless of age. If you’re a photographer, these exhibits are great places to get fantastic photos of some of the rarest butterflies in the world. Whether you’re visiting to learn, look, or both, there’s no doubt a day at a butterfly house is sure to be its own kind of adventure as you peer into the world and life-cycle of such a beautiful creatures.
naturalists from the Delaware Nature Society, who will take you to nearby meadows to explore with nets and into the Butterfly House to investigate. The entry fee is included with admission to Ashland. It is $10 per adult and $6 per child. Ashland is open between 8:30am and 4:30pm daily. More information can be found online at http://www.delawarenaturesociety.org.
Ashland Nature Center
Brookside’s Butterfly Garden in Wheaton, MD, is sure to impress visitors with its beautiful display and knowledgeable, friendly staff. Before heading into the butterfly garden, which doubles as a large greenhouse, visitors step foot into the caterpillar room, where a staff member explains the process these insects go through to become butter-
Ashland’s Butterfly House in Hockessin, DE, is home to an 18 ft. by 30 ft. mesh greenhouse, complete with 15 different variations of butterflies and moths. A few of these species include Monarchs, Great Spangled Fritillaries, Cectopias, Swallowtails, and Painted Ladies. If you take a visit to Ashland, you’ll learn about the importance of good habitats, metamorphosis, and the food web. Unlike other butterfly gardens, Ashland’s Butterfly House boasts a complete ecosystem for each species – it has water, food, shelter, and host plants for each individual species’ needs. Tours here are led by teacher6
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Brookside Gardens Wings of Fancy Exhibit
flies. There are even live caterpillars nesting in their cocoons, so you can really get the full experience. Once in the exhibit, you’ll see hundreds of butterflies from across the world, as far away as Asia and Africa. Photographers will love this exhibit because of the wonderful lighting, which makes for some beautiful and memorable photos. When you’re done looking at butterflies, head on over to the Conservatory gift shop to commemorate your stay. It is open between July 1 and October 25, between 10am and 4pm daily. Entry is $8 for those 13 and older, $5 for those between 3 and 12 years old, and free for children under 2 years old. You can even purchase a frequent-visitor pass if you think you’ll be back often. More information can be found at http://www. montgomeryparks. org/brookside/ wings_of_fancy.shtm.
DAYtrip
The Butterfly House at Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens’ butterfly exhibit in Hershey, PA, is a great local spot. If you’re coming from further away, make a stay of it and spend some time at Hershey Park, too. Visitors at the Butterfly House can witness the entire life-cycle of a butterfly as volunteers guide you through the stages. The Butterfly House itself represents almost 25 North American species, with upwards of 400 butterflies in the exhibit. Also in the exhibit are nectar plants for food, host plants for egg-laying and caterpillar feeding, and a lovely pond and water fixture. It is open between May 22 and September 13, between 9am and 5pm daily, weather permitting. Entry is included with a ticket to Hershey Gardens, which is $9.50 for those over 61 years old, $10.50 for those 13 to 61 years old, $7.50 for those between 3 to 12 years old, and free for children 2 years old or younger. Hershey Gardens members also get in free. Keep in mind that strollers are not allowed in the exhibit because of space limitations. More information can be found at http://www.hersheygardens.org/attractions/butterfly-house.
Norfolk Botanical Garden’s Butterfly House Exhibit
Norfolk’s butterfly exhibit in Norfolk, VA, is especially worthwhile because of its sheer size. The Butterfly House itself complements the 2.5-acre Bristow Butterfly Garden and the giant Butterfly Maze. Visitors learn about the habits and life-cycles of each type of butterfly, and can see for themselves — eggs rest on host plants, and caterpillars continually eat and grow within the exhibit. You can even watch as a chrysalis opens and the butterfly emerges. It is open between June 12 and September 20, between 9am and 7pm daily. Entry is included with regular garden admission, which is $11 for adults, $9 for those between 3 and 18 years old, and free for children 2 years old and younger. More information can be found at http://norfolkbotanicalgarden.org.
Smithsonian Butterfly Pavilion
The Smithsonian’s Butterfly Pavilion at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC, shares its hall with another exhibit. “Butterflies and Plants: Partners in Evolution” is a free exploration into the co-evolution of insects,
animals, and plants. It explains how natural selection has shaped the evolution of plants, animals, and insects. If you aren’t looking for a history lesson, don’t worry — you can enjoy the indoor pavilion just for the beautiful plants and butterflies from all over the world. Some of the species include the Giant Hawk Moth, Madagascar Star Orchid, and Great Orange Tip butterfly. If the Pavilion isn’t enough for you, you can head on over to the Butterfly Habitat Garden on 9th Street, just east of the museum. The Pavilion is open between May 23 and September 7, between 10am and 6:30pm, with final entry at 6pm. Entry is $6 for adults and $5 for children and members, with discounted rates available for large groups. Entry is free on Tuesdays, but you still need to get a ticket from the Butterfly Pavilion Box Office. More information can be found at http://butterflies.si.edu/index. htm. o Gaby Galvin is a Washington Gardener Magazine summer 2015 intern who is studying multiplatform journalism at the University of Maryland. She does some gardening at home in Davidsonville, MD, with her mother and grandparents. She can be reached through the Washington Gardener web site.
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HORThaenings
Green Industry Professional Field Day and Trade Show at American University in DC
by Marissa Paiano On July 16, American University hosted the Green Industry Professional Field Day and Trade Show. There were many tours and informational sessions led by a variety of landscape architects, professors, and horticulturists. The topics of the tours and talks ranged from perennials to chainsaw safety for arborists to honey bees. Many of the tours were able to incorporate American University’s campus plantings and there were Spanish sessions throughout the day as well. In addition to these activities, there was also a trade show open to attendees the entire day where they could check out the newest products and equipment. o
Kenilworth Lotus and Waterlily Festival 2015
by Daven Desai On July 11, 2015, the much-anticipated Lotus and Waterlily Festival took place at Kenilworth Park and Aquatic Gardens in DC. From 10AM to 4PM, thousands of people gathered to walk through a vast array of lotus and waterlilies in full bloom. Children enjoyed making lotus flower hats, getting their faces painted, and painting demonstrations. There were also gardening workshops, traditional Asian and African dance performances, and lotus tea tasting for the adults. Visitors also had the opportunity to make lily pad hats and Japanese fans to keep them cool in the summer heat. Visitors enjoyed many other displays of entertainment, including educational and cultural exhibitors with a Civil War reenactment that was followed by a history lesson about the Civil War for all interested. o
MoCo Farm Tour 2015
IGC East Show 2015
by Marissa Paiano On August 4-6, the Independent Garden Center’s second annual East Show was held at the Baltimore Convention Center featuring exhibitors relevant to garden centers through a screening process. Along with the trade show, there were seminars, workshops, and three keynote speakers, one of which was Martha Stewart. On the Monday before the show, there was a pre-show tour to five locations. The stops were at exemplary garden centers throughout Maryland as well as Brookside Gardens. On Tuesday night, the Gin Blossoms put on a free concert for attendees at the convention center. o 8
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by Daven Desai From Saturday, July 25 through Sunday, July 26, Montgomery County held its annual farm tour and harvest sale. Locals from all over Maryland, DC, and some in Virginia came out to see the 19 farms throughout the county that had participated in the farm tour. Washington Gardener staff attended two farm tours and harvest sales. Heyser Farms, Inc. in Silver Spring, was first on the list. Visitors got to enjoy a walk through their orchard and greenhouse, a ride on their antique farm equipment, and sample delicious melons, as well as some pear cider and apple hard cider. If the tasting wasn’t enough, they also held a bee demo to show the masses how honey is harvested. Heyser Farms, Inc. had just entered its 69th season. The second tour we attended was Rock Hill Orchard in Mount Airy; visitors here enjoyed very different things. Rock Hill had a field of flowers where you could go out and cut-your-ownbouquets, pick your own blackberries, and enjoy some delicious peaches from the orchard. Attendees also enjoyed a long hayride at the end of their visit. We really enjoyed ourselves here. o
UDC Green Roof Opening
by Gaby Galvin On July 9, 2015, the University of the District of Columbia held a ribbon-cutting to celebrate the completion of its new food-producing green roof. The green roof is on top of Building 44 of the Van Ness campus and is the largest green roof in DC, with 40,000 square feet of plants, shrubs, flowers, fruits, and vegetables. More than 100 guests heard from campus leaders, took a tour of the green roof, and enjoyed refreshments, some of which were made with ingredients from the green roof garden. Green roofs help promote efficient energy usage, cooler buildings, and reduced stormwater runoff. o
Perennial Plant Association’s 33rd Annual Perennial Plant Symposium
by Gaby Galvin The PPA’s Plant Symposium ran from July 27 to August 1, 2015, at the Hilton in Baltimore, MD. The more than 500 attendees enjoyed six full days of perennial fun as they joined conferences, talks, and tours of local gardens. They were able to visit and speak with growers in the area as well as purchase some new plants and tools to use at home. Attendees were able to plan out new, innovative ways to design their gardens and take the advice of experts. On Monday night, the group also attended the Baltimore Orioles vs. Atlanta Braves MLB game. o
10 Things You Didn’t Know You CAN Compost! by Kathy Jentz We all know that yard trimmings and weeds, kitchen scraps from vegetables and fruit, and spent cut-flowers can go into the compost, but, several items that are commonly thrown out in your garbage and go to the landfill not only are no harm to your garden; they can be very beneficial for it! Here is a short list. 1. Egg shells. Yes, they are an animal by-product, but the shells themselves are fine; it is the contents of the shells that should not be in your compost. After a baking project, I simply rinse out the shells, then zap them in the microwave for 15–20 seconds. Careful taking them out as they can be hot right afterwards. Then, I crush them up and add them to my compost. For the extra calcium boost, I also sprinkle them around my tomato plants and as a sharp-edged, slug-barrier for my hostas. 2. Pet hair. Technically, this is an animal by-product, but it is a harmless one since it is made up of dead cells. When summer comes and your cats and dogs are shedding like crazy, just empty that pet brush right over your compost pile.
It quickly breaks down and has the added benefit of warding off rodent pests. And yes, your hair, unless it has been chemically processed, is fine to add to the pile, too. 3. Dryer lint. Clean your dryer filter between each load and add that to your compost pile. If you mostly wear natural fabrics such as cotton and linen, the fibers are a great soil additive. 4. Cotton balls. Swab your face and then fling the balls in the compost bin. Do make sure that they are actually 100% cotton, so they’re 100% compostable. 5. Tea bags and coffee filters. These are perfectly fine compost additions. To help them break down quick in the compost, I tear open the tea bags, put the tags in my paper recycling bins, and save the strings to put out for nesting birds. The tea brand I use does not staple the bags shut. If yours does, be sure to remove the staple as well. 6. Loofahs and natural sponges. If yours is starting to show wear and tear, go ahead and buy (or grow) yourself a new one and add the old one to your compost pile.
7. Popsicle sticks and toothpicks. Wood is fine for compost, especially small pieces that will decompose within a year. If you have any larger branches or wood pieces (such as an old chair leg), you may want to break those down a bit before adding them in. 8. Fireplace ashes. These are a great nutrient source for your plants, but don’t overdo it. Mix them in with plenty of vegetable matter. Also, be sure they have fully cooled before adding them to your pile. 9. Plain cooked pasta and rice. If you have any leftover pasta or rice, go ahead and add that to your pile, as long as it is not salted or prepared in oil. 10. Floor sweepings and vacuum bag contents. All those crumbs, dander, and particles of dirt that get brought into your house can go right back out the door and into the compost. Wet them down a bit to help the dust from flying right back into the home with you. I bet your mind is whirling now with other compost possibilities. I hope this list makes you re-examine what is actually waste and what can be a great garden addition! o
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TIPStricks
Arlington Cemetery Now a Level 2 Arboretum
80% of Americans Don’t Know Fall is Best Time to Plant Wildflower Seeds
by Marissa Paiano While most gardeners believe that spring is the best time to plant flowers, they are missing out on a great opportunity in the fall to prepare their garden for the next year. The steps taken within the next few months will pave the way to a thriving garden in the spring along with sheltering bees that are crucial to the long-term health of the pollinator food supply. According to a survey conducted last year by Cascadian Farm as part of its “Bee Friendlier” program, 80% of Americans are unaware that fall is the best time to plant wildflower seeds. Last September, Cascadian Farm planted a million wildflowers to create a home for bees in the spring and encourage awareness of this effort. Almost two-thirds of major U.S. crop species are pollinated by bees, including coffee, chocolate, tomatoes, and cotton, according to the “Bee Friendlier” program’s web site, http://bee-friendlier.com/. On the web site, there is an interactive map for viewers to discover which wildflowers are the best to plant in their regions. For the Mid-Atlantic region, the web site suggests Wild Indigo, Purple Coneflower, Butterfly Milkweed, and Field Thistle, among others. Other tips that the web site provides for making your yard more welcoming for bees is to avoid using insecticides, leave piles of soil or branches for bees to make a home, and spread awareness of the cause. o 10
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by Daven Desai The Morton Register of Arboreta and the ArbNext Arboretum Accreditation Program have awarded Arlington National Cemetery Arboretum with Level II accreditation. Arlington National Cemetery has accomplished particular standards of professional practices that are deemed important to qualify for arboreta and botanic gardens. It will now be recognized as an accredited arboretum in the Morton Register of Arboreta. “Accreditation solidifies our commitment to the preservation of our natural and cultural landscape resources and provides the opportunity to tell the stories behind the magnificent trees found here,” said Stephen Van Hoyen, horticulture division chief. As a part of this accomplishment and Arbor Day, the cemetery hosted a freeguided walking tour of its grounds and tree planting on April 24. The Arlington grounds honor the service and sacrifice of more than 400,000 active-duty service members, veterans, and their families who rest here. The arboretum portion of the grounds includes a blend of formal and informal landscapes, with more than 8,600 trees from over 300 species, cultivars, or varieties. The collection includes trees that date back to before the establishment of the cemetery, estimated to be between 200 and 250 years old; two state champions, a significant set of memorial trees, and trees that honor recipients of the Medal of Honor. To commemorate the cemetery’s 150th anniversary, last year, the historic landscape was established as the Memorial Arboretum, serving as a living memorial to those who have sacrificed their lives for the nation and connecting visitors to the rich tapestry of the cemetery’s living history and natural beauty. o
8 Steps to Reducing Your Garden’s Water Usage
by Gaby Galvin During the summer, half of all household water usage can go toward the garden and landscape upkeep. It’s easier than you might think to cut down on water usage while still keeping a beautiful garden. Here are eight quick tips to help from the National Garden Bureau. 1. Add organic matter to your soil. To improve the texture and water-holding capacity of your soil, add chopped up leaves, compost, or composted manure. An inch a year should be enough. 2. Deliver water to the root-zone. Sprinklers only deliver 40 to 50 percent of their water to plants. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation will ensure up to 90 percent efficiency. They minimize evaporation and weed growth. 3. Use mulch to retain water. Organic mulch retains some water and increases humidity. Adding a 6-8 inch layer of organic mulch blocks thirsty weeds and reduces evaporation. 4. Use free water. Rain water is healthier for your plants, as well as unchlorinated and free. Use rain barrels or a cistern to collect rainwater. 5. Reduce your lawn. Turfgrass uses much more water than other plants. Consider replacing it with groundcovers or perennials. 6. Plan before you plant. Take advantages of your space: the sun, shade, wind and soil conditions. Put plants with similar watering needs together. 7. Choose plants carefully. If you choose native plants that are satisfied with natural rainfall, you’ll have a lot less work to do and will waste a lot less water. Choose your plants based on your area’s conditions. 8. Take care of your plants. Keep up with weeding, thinning, pruning, and monitoring pests. Healthy plants need less water. o
GARDENnews
Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts
New Plant Spotlight Evercolor® ‘Everillo’ Carex
Carex oshimensis EverColor® ‘Everillo’ PP21002 Add drama to shady spots or containers with this versatile, easy-care grass. Use as a groundcover, to edge a path, or to tuck into a window box. Feature: Bright, colorful foliage Plant Type: Groundcovers/Grasses Evergreen or Deciduous: Evergreen USDA Zones: 5-11 Key Features: Year-Round Interest Use: Accent, Border, Container, Groundcover, Mass Planting Exposure: Full Sun to Part Shade Water: Medium Soil Type: Well-drained garden soil Fertilizer: Yearly in spring Dimensions: 12-18" H x 12-18" W Pruning: None needed ‘Everillo’ is part of the Southern Living® Plant Collection, a series of innovative plants selected for their ability to solve specific landscape challenges and to excel in Southern gardens. The collection is the result of a partnership between Plant Development Services, Inc., and Southern Living magazine. o
• Wings of Fancy Video Tour • Native Spotlight: Rose Mallow • Sulfur Cosmos: You Can Grow That • DIY: Self-Watering Kitty Litter Containers See more Washington Gardener blog posts at: WashingtonGardener.Blogspot.com o
August-September Garden Task To-Do List
• It is harvest time and also a good time to start taking stock of what worked well for you this season and what didn’t. • Buy raspberries and peaches at a local pick-your-own farm or visit a local farmer’s market. • Let the lawn go dormant for now; it will green back up in the coming rains. • Check your local garden center for end-of-summer bargains. • If your pond water gets low from prolonged drought, top it off with tap-water and add a dechlorinator according to package instructions. • Wash out birdbaths weekly with diluted bleach solution. • Water thoroughly, especially if you receive no rain for more than 5-7 days. • Turn your compost pile weekly and don’t let it dry out. • Start shopping for spring bulbs. • Divide and cut back Bearded Iris and Peonies. • Check your pond pump for debris and clean it out every few weeks. • Watch for slug damage and set out traps or Sluggo bait. • Check for mosquito breeding grounds. Dump out any water that sits stagnant for more than three days. • Weed and weed some more. • Cut back any leggy Asters or Mums. • Take garden photos and make notes in your garden journal. • Start collecting plant seeds for next year and for trading. • As the days get cooler, plant hardy mums. • Prune evergreens to get in shape for fall/winter. • Hand-pick or cut out any bagworm cocoons. • Harvest your herbs often and keep them trimmed back to encourage leafy growth. Dry them indoors if you can’t use them right away. • Bring Christmas cactus and poinsettias indoors if you took them out for the summer in preparation for holiday blooming. Fertilize them and put them where they’ll get just 10 hours’ bright light per day. • Inspect for powdery mildew. If seen, prune back perennials to create needed circulation. Discard properly (i.e., not in your compost bin). • Clean your hummingbird feeders and add new sugar-water every three days. • Renew your container plantings, which may be looking a bit ragged at this point. Pinch back overgrown plants. Pull out any spent ones and pop in some substitute annuals or mums. Keep them well-watered and add a little liquid fertilizer every few weeks to keep them going through early autumn. • Switch your deer deterrent spray. • Start seeds for fall annuals such as pansy, calendula, and kale. • Plant fall crops such as Chinese cabbage, lettuce, radish, mustard, broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, turnips, and beets. • Order garlic, onions, and shallots for fall planting. • Attend a county fair and enter some of your garden bounty. • Preserve gourds and dry flowers for display in the fall. • Apply grub control to your lawn. • Divide Hostas and Daylilies. • Deadhead garlic chives before they go to seed. Makes a nice cut-flower. o AUGUST 2015
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TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS DC-Area Gardening Calendar ~ Upcoming Events ~ August 16–September 15, 2015 • Thursday, August 20, 6–8pm Seeds of Innovation From heirlooms to biotech, how have seeds fed us in the past and how will seeds feed the future? Join scientists, researchers, and historians to discuss the impact of seeds, seed saving, and seed technology on our historic and modern food systems. Smithsonian American History Museum’s Victory Garden, Constitution Avenue and 12th St. NW, WDC. See http://americanhistory. si.edu/topics/food/pages/americanhistory-after-hours. • Saturday, August 22, 10am–4pm Chesapeake & Potomac Iris Society Iris Sale Come to our booth at the Taste Fest Museum of the Shenandoah Valley 901 Amherst Street, Winchester, VA. There will be all kinds of gardening booths and cooking demonstrations outside, plus slide shows indoors. Call Ginny Spoon at 540-888-4447 or e-mail vspoon@aol.com for more information. • Saturday, August 22, 10am–7pm Melon Mayhem on the Shore The Great Eastern Shore Tomato Fes-
tival will take place on the banks of the Nanticoke River in Vienna, MD, in Dorchester County. There is free admission, free parking with transportation down to the site. This is a family-friendly event. The festival will start with a bang and a bit of Melon Mayhem, as Punkin Chunkin favorites, Smokin’ and Road Warrior will chunk some over-ripe melons over the Nanticoke. The schedule of events includes the Mayor’s Challenge Tomato Race, Peach Pit Spitting Contest, Watermelon Eating Contest, the Great Tomato Wars, and more. For details, see www.dorchesterhistory.com. • Saturday, August 22, 9am–4:30pm and Sunday, August 23, 12n–3:30pm 30th Annual Begonia Show and Sale Be tempted by splashes of color and shape for homes and greenhouses that last long after frosts have put our outdoor gardens to bed. The sale offers a wide variety of begonias, including subtropical species. Free event. Sponsored by the Potomac branch of the American Begonia Society. Green Spring Gardens, 4603 Green Spring Road, Alexandria, VA. For information, call Green Spring Gardens at 703-642-5173.
• Sunday, August 23, 5–7pm 10th Anniversary of Washington Gardener Magazine Open Garden Party Stop by with your gardening questions, see the trial gardens in progress, or just come hang out with us for some latesummer tropical fun. The Open Garden is on in shine or light rain. We’ll quickly duck in the gazebo if it drizzles. Please pass this invitation on to your DC-area gardening friends and family. Dress in your best compost couture (i.e., natural fibers) and see you there! Details at http://washingtongardener.blogspot. com/2015/08/open-garden-invitation. html. •Wednesday, August 26, 7:30–9pm Program on Fall Gardening Virginia Cooperative Extension and the Alexandria Beautification Commission sponsor a program on fall gardening activities that can help ensure a beautiful garden next spring. At Mount Vernon Recreation Center, 2701 Commonwealth Avenue, Alexandria, VA. Presented by Arlington County Horticultural Agent Kirsten Buhls, the program will cover lawn fertilization, what to plant in the fall, what to prune and when, and what to do with all those leaves. The program is free and open to the public. Registration is requested at mgnv.org. Questions? Call 703-228-6414 or email mgarlalex@gmail.com. • Every Thursday through September 3 Let’s Talk Gardens! Programs for Beginning Gardeners Good gardeners aren’t born — they’re cultivated! Smithsonian Gardens will be helping turn thumbs green with a series of free lunchtime talks and demonstrations on gardening basics. Join our horticulturists in the Enid A. Haupt Garden and grow your gardening skills. See details at http://www.gardens.si.edu/ whats-happening/. • Saturday, August 29, 10am–12n 8th Annual Washington Gardener Magazine Tomato Tasting At the FreshFarm Market in downtown Silver Spring, MD. Sample the multitude of tomatoes at the market and vote on your favorites. Stop by for tomato reci-
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TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS DC-Area Gardening Calendar ~ Upcoming Events ~ August 16–September 15, 2015 pes, growing tips, and much more. The event is FREE and open to the public. Wear a bib! Details at our blog: http:// washingtongardener.blogspot.com/. • Saturday, August 29, 9 am –3pm Surplus USNA Book Sale Don’t miss this opportunity to own a book once part of the National Arboretum library. There are over 3,000 titles. A list of most of the titles will be posted on the Arboretum web site the week of the sale. All the books are priced to sell. Cash and checks only. Proceeds support the U.S. National Arboretum’s mission-related activities. Details at http://www.usna.usda.gov. • Saturday, September 12, 12n–8pm DC State Fair The DC State Fair is an agricultural, culinary, and artistic showcase for the District. Now in its sixth year, the event introduces some new contests, and celebrates our legacy ones, too. Held at Old City Farm & Guild, 925 Rhode Island Ave NW, WDC. For contest entry, see https://dcstatefair.wordpress.com/. • Saturday, September 12, 9am–6pm 9th Annual Heritage Harvest Festival on Monticello’s West Lawn More than 100 programs and hands-on workshops, garden tours, a bounty of heirloom fruit and vegetable tastings, kids’ activities, and more during this fun, affordable, family-friendly festival unlike any other. Details at http://www. monticello.org. •Saturday, September 12, 10am–2pm Friends of Brookside Gardens Plant Sale Special hours for FOBG members: 8–10am; 10% discount for members. Join at the sale and get this special discount. Visa, Mastercard, checks, and cash accepted. For a complete listing of the plants and shrubs available with planting and growing details, visit www.friendsofbrooksidegardens.org. Many new and unusual varieties to be offered. • Sunday, September 13, 12n—4pm Pawpaw Festival at Meadowside
Nature Center Celebrate this delightful native fruit with music, storytelling, crafts, games, raptor talks, expert advice on pawpaw cultivation, and — most importantly — a pawpaw tasting station. And this year, we’ll have both pawpaw fruit and trees for purchase. $5 admission. No advance registration required. Details at www. montgomeryparks.org.
Save These Future Dates: • Saturday, September 26, 3–4pm Basic Flower Arranging Workshop Join instructor Kathy Jentz as she teaches cut-flower basics and how to simply and easily arrange your flowers. Join us and take home a hand-tied bouquet. Hosted by On the Purple Couch in Kensington, MD. Fee $35. Details at http://www.onthepurplecouch.com. • October 8–11, 2015 Association of Professional Landscape Designers® Intl. Design Conference APLD’s annual meeting takes place this year on Capitol Hill in Washington, DC. Tour gardens in DC, Maryland, and Virginia; take advantage of great
workshops and network with landscape designers. Details at www.apld.org. • Saturday, October 10 Planting for Diversity Are you interested in history, agriculture, gardening, cooking, or eating? If so, you will enjoy taking part in this event, which demonstrates how the pleasures of seed saving and gardening with heirloom plants directly benefit the important cause of plant diversity. Details to be posted on August 21 at http://www. usna.usda.gov.
Still More Event Listings
See even more event listings on the Washington Gardener Yahoo discussion list. Join the list at http://groups.yahoo. com/group/WashingtonGardener/.
How to Submit Local Garden Events
To submit an event for this listing, please contact: Wgardenermag@aol. com — put “Event” in the subject line. Our next deadline is September 10 for the September 15 issue, featuring events taking place from September 15—October 15, 2015. o
Y ou Can Make a Difference. . . by
Sharing Your Harvest
Plant an extra row in your garden and deliver the harvest to a local food bank or shelter. The need is great! With your help, PAR can continue to make a difference for America’s most vulnerable. Call our toll-free number (877.GWAA.PAR) or visit our website at www.gardenwriters.org/par for more information. AUGUST 2015
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BOOKreviews
Heirloom Fruits & Vegetables, By Toby Musgrave Publisher: Thames & Hudson Inc. List Price: $50.00 Reviewer: Andrea F. Siegel With luscious photos and illuminating text, this book is a masterful presentation of the heritage of the fruits and vegetables that we have cultivated, some of whose ancient varieties, sadly, have vanished over time. Distraught by the disappearance of many fruit and vegetable varieties, which often lost out to standardized, so-called “improved,” and commercially favored produce, renowned photographer Clay Perry approached the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) publications with the idea of photographing endangered fruits and vegetables in hopes of preventing further loss. The book’s romantic photos, Perry acknowledges, were inspired by Spanish still-life painters of the 16th and 17th centuries, a nod to the past. The RHS brought in Toby Musgrave, a garden history authority, to write the text. The result is a gorgeous exploration of garden heritage. The book may have the most magnificent fresh-produce photos I’ve ever seen, including larger-than-life portraits of impeccably clean, perfect fruit. But, it is more than a coffee table volume, urging the growing of heirloom varieties and reminding us that a lack of genetic diversity led to the Irish potato famine of the 1840s. (‘Lumper’ was the potato grown in the Irish monoculture.) The book presents an overview of cultivation history, and then is organized by season, convenient for growers, cooks, and consumers. Within that, sections group types of fruits and vegetables, with the text unfurling a story 14
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on each, noting where it and its name originated, its history and varieties, uses over time, folklore — some of it quirky — and the like. The page on the cucumber, for example, advises readers that cukes were brought to what is now Great Britain by the Romans; that Samuel Pepys noted in his diary for August 22, 1663 that “Mr. Newburne ... is dead of eating Cowcoumbers”; that engineer George Stephenson patented a cucumber cylinder to ensure that cukes would grow straight; and that, by the mid-18th century, cucumber clubs held competitions. Photos of heirlooms varieties available are shown. The book is timely, coming when the grow-your-own movement has created thousands of backyard gardeners, and as parallel movements promote saving the surviving heirlooms, which has made planting them so popular that even mainstream companies sell heirloom seeds and seedlings. Anyone looking for a how-to-grow-it manual will be disappointed by this book, though it does include a list (not exhaustive and in tiny type) of heirloom fruit and seed suppliers in the United States and Great Britain, along with suggested heritage gardens in Great Britain to visit. And although it features information about growing history, it is hardly a compendium of every cultivar or variety ever grown, gone, or surviving. But it doesn’t pretend to be. Yet, it is important to know the backstory of what we eat, gain insight into the ancestral trees of our modern produce, and be reminded of why these delicious heirlooms are worth a place in our garden plots. Andrea F. Siegel, a master gardener in Maryland, is a freelance writer and editor.
Garden Problem Solver By Rosemary Ward Publisher: Mitchell Beazley/ Octopus, in association with the Royal Horticultural Society. List Price: $19.99 Reviewer: Martha N. Sykora So many things can go wrong in a garden! Included in the Garden Problem Solver are descriptions and clear drawings of more
than 280 of them. Quite a few of the common pests, diseases, and garden problems covered have appeared in my own gardens at some point. Fortunately author Rosemary Ward, who also wrote Propagation Techniques and coauthored other titles in this series published in association with Britain’s Royal Horticultural Society, provides guidance to help prevent, identify, and treat these challenges. Beginning gardeners will appreciate the initial chapters emphasizing practices promoting the avoidance of problems, including detailed explanations of what it means to have the right plant in the right place. Information is presented on encouraging beneficial insects and helpful wildlife predators, and various physical barriers for small and large pests. A photo of a small empty jar upturned over a bamboo stake, effectively keeping the stake from poking through some plastic netting, caused a why-didn’t-I-think-of-that moment since my own netting is draped directly over my blueberries and sometimes the birds can still help themselves. A brief overview of the most common pests and diseases concludes the initial general introduction before the “meat” of the book: separate chapters on Ornamentals, Vegetables, and Fruit, followed by a smaller section on Weeds. These sections will be of use to both beginners and more experienced gardeners. The descriptions are detailed and the drawings are clear enough to further help with identification of garden issues. Fortunately, the somewhat sobering drawings are interspersed with beautiful photographs of healthy plants! Almost every gardener will have need of a problem identification and treatment book at some point. The Garden Problem Solver stands out for the inclusion of an emphasis on prevention and is recommended with just a couple caveats. Organic gardeners take note: While prevention and natural controls are the author’s initial suggestions, she also includes recommendations for sparing use of appropriate pesticides as needed, always applied in accordance with local laws. Brand names are not given since they
BOOKreviews can vary from country to country. And, while many of the pests and diseases seem to be found in Britain as well as the USA, some of the plants covered in the Weeds section may not be found or perhaps considered to be weeds here, although the weed prevention and control information still applies. Martha Sykora has been lucky to try gardening in climates as diverse as Maryland, Colorado, and England. She currently lives in a LEED-certified homestead-wannabe in Annapolis. The bees haven’t survived a full year yet but the vermiculture composting operation is doing well. Next addition: insectary gardens!
Good Gardens with Less Water By Kevin Handreck Publisher: CSIRO Publishing List Price: $36.95 Reviewer: Marissa Paiano Good Gardens with Less Water is exactly what you would expect from its title: a complete guide on how to grow a thriving garden with a limited water supply. When reading, keep in mind that the book is written by a foreign author and originally published by an Australian publishing company, so some of the content may not apply to MidAtlantic gardens. However, there are a lot of useful tips on how to make the most of a garden with very little water that can apply to anywhere in the world. In the first chapter of the book, Handreck talks about the various causes of water shortage, such as reduced rainfall, increasing population, and even how politics can have
an effect. In the next chapter, he starts out explaining the different types of plants and how they handle water supply. Handreck then talks about different climatic zones with different rainfall and evaporation rates, and which plants work best in which conditions. This section, I found, is extremely useful for gardeners everywhere, even if they are not dealing with a water shortage. He explains which plants store water and which need continual watering. In this chapter, he also discusses the three types of photosynthesis and how the root systems of a plant work, as well as what happens to a plant when it’s denied the proper amount of water. Soil is another topic that Handreck goes into great detail about. He instructs the reader on how to “get to know the soil in your garden” and explains the structure of soil and how it holds water. Handreck also advises the reader on ways to increase the water retention of various soil types. After this, he goes into detail about water. From checking the quality of your water to explaining how types of water can damage plants, Handreck’s chapter on water quality is thorough, detailed, and informative. In the following chapters, as the book’s title promises, Handreck goes on to show how to get the water to your plants. From using every raindrop to explaining the various watering devices, he covers it all. There is even a specific chapter on “garden watering systems” that covers all the different systems you can use to water your garden, such as sprinklers, hoses, watering cans, and drip systems. A few other topics that the book touches upon are mulch: the various types and how they hold water; potted plants: the different potting mixes and when to water these plants; and lawns: which grasses work better in which climates, tips for remaking a lawn, and watering, mowing, and caring for your lawn. While there are definitely sections that are specific to Australia, I think that there is interesting information for everyone in this book. Packed with tips and advice, it can be a long read. However, you can make it as short as you want by skimming to the sections that are relevant to you. I would recom-
mend this book to anyone who is looking to be more efficient with water in his or her garden. Marissa Paiano is a summer intern at Washington Gardener Magazine. She studies journalism at the University of Maryland and, in her free time, she enjoys reading and exploring DC.
Everyday Roses: How to Grow Knock Out® and Other Easy-Care Garden Roses By Paul Zimmerman Publisher: The Taunton Press List Price: $22.95 Reviewer: Daven Desai After reading this step-by-step guide on how to grow roses in your own backyard, you will become a fan of Paul Zimmerman’s work. Zimmerman has noticed that homeowners already do or really would enjoy having garden roses in their home landscape. While roses are not necessarily easy flowers to grow, this book provides an in-depth look at how to determine your garden’s capability to grow the lowmaintenance roses mentioned in the book. The best part of this book is that it starts off by telling you why it is for you. The readers get an instant connection to the author as he discusses why homeowners have shied away from growing roses in the past. Whether it was too complicated or the steps were too confusing, he acknowledges that growing roses is not an easy feat, which adds to Book Reviews continued on next page
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BOOKreviews the appeal of the book by increasing its variety of potential readers. The first portion delves into what types of roses would be identified as garden roses. Zimmerman then talks about the anatomy of the rose. He has labeled images showing what the rose blossom, leaflet, cane, stub, and rootstock are. The book is then separated into four parts. The first part covers buying roses and planting them. He outlines what to do before purchasing your roses, as well as how to garden them according to your outdoor landscape. Part two is the most crucial to those who are not as experienced in gardening because it discusses basic care of roses. From mulching, watering, and feeding, Zimmerman tells you how to do it all. If you’re having trouble understanding, you can always type in his links and watch the how-to video. The next two chapters cover disease, insects, pruning, and grooming. These things are always to be considered when caring for your garden roses. Part three is a gallery of rose images and roses in landscapes so you have more an aesthetic take on how roses can look in different styles of landscapes. The last part is a rose guide. This will help beginners and masters alike narrow down the types of roses they wish to grow. It’s titled as suggestions, but it includes many different varieties and options for the reader to choose from. Throughout the book, Zimmerman includes links to his Fine Gardening blog “Roses are plants, too,” which contains rose how-to videos. These simply reinforce what he says in the book so readers can watch the topic that they just read about. A wonderful idea, and a unique addition that only adds to the information that the reader receives. Another really good add-on that Zimmerman includes is the captions that he has under a lot of his images. They help the reader understand what they’re looking at and why it’s relevant to the topic discussed. Zimmerman has covered A-Z in this very detailed book. From purchasing, to watching videos to prepping your garden before purchasing, Zimmerman truly succeeds in his endeavor to help 16
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readers grow garden roses successfully. If you plan on growing garden roses in your landscape, you should definitely pick up a copy of this book. Daven Desai is a senior at the University of Maryland, College Park. He is a broadcast journalism student in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism. This summer, he is also an editorial intern for Washington Gardener Magazine.
Homegrown Honey Bees: An Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Beekeeping
Your First Year, From Hiving to Honey Harvest By Alethea Morrison Publisher: Storey Publishing List Price: $14.95 Reviewer: Gaby Galvin Homegrown Honey Bees is a good introduction to what beginner beekeeping entails. If you are seriously considering beekeeping as a hobby, more research would need to be done as this book provides more of a general overview of critical information. The book has nine chapters, covering everything from what you’re getting yourself into to the necessary gear to how to get started. It also provides some context by the first month, the first season, and the first harvest, allowing you to plan and really see where you’ll be at each stage. The photos in this book are beautiful (they are by Mars Vilaubi), and the colorful and decorated pages are sure to grab anyone’s attention. The design and simplicity of the book makes it a
good choice for getting kids interested in beekeeping, if you so choose. The book provides plenty of charts, graphs, and diagrams to help you understand all the different types of bees and other dilemmas you may encounter. Every few pages, there is a small section called “Urban Beekeeping,” where the author spotlights a beekeeper who has successfully kept bees in a metropolitan area. These provide great insight for those who may be worried about space constraints. Another insert is called “Bee Diary,” with helpful tips and tricks sprinkled in, like keeping a journal of hive activity. One of the most helpful chapters is called “The Gear.” It tells you everything you need to raise bees and provides diagrams and instructions for how to build hive bodies. The glossary and the appendix at the end of the book are great references for someone who knows exactly what they are looking for or may not understand all of the terminology used. I would have preferred them to be a little more extensive, but it is definitely a plus that the book contains them at all. All in all, Homegrown Honey Bees is a great start for someone who wants to work with honey bees and isn’t sure where to begin. It will provide some background information so you will understand the basics before you delve further into researching your new hobby. o Gaby Galvin is a Washington Gardener Magazine summer 2015 intern who is studying multiplatform journalism at the University of Maryland. She does some gardening at home in Davidsonville, MD, with her mother and grandparents. She can be reached through Washington Gardener.
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To join the Washington Gardener Volunteer Reader Panel, please send an email with your name and address to: wgardenermag@aol.com. o We look forward to having you be a vital part of our local gardening publication. o
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INSECTindex Normal coneflower on left with two coneflowers infested with Eriophyid mites. Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, Ohio State University Extension.
Coneflower Catastrophe
by Carol Allen You are happily watching Swallowtail, Monarch, Admiral, and other butterflies nectaring in your prized pollinator garden. Several kinds of bees, wasps, and beetles are also enjoying the abundance of pollen and nectar. You have Butterfly Weed, Swamp Milkweed, Asters, and lots and lots of coneflowers in full bloom. The sight is one that invokes satisfaction and bliss, but gardeners in our area are starting to notice some abnormal or distorted coneflowers in this peak of the season. What is this all about? Pests and diseases also can take advantage of the abundance of any one particular host plant and, as gardeners increase the numbers of coneflowers in their pollinator gardens, problems are bound to arise. There are three different causes for distorted cornflowers in our area: Aster Yellows, Coneflower Rosette, and Sunflower Moth and its kin. All three maladies affect the flower of the plant. Some of these are more serious than the others. Aster Yellows is the most harmful of the three. This disease is caused by a tiny, virus-like particle that is spread by the Aster Leafhopper. This pathogen, called a phytoplasma, enters the plant through the sucking mouthparts of the insect. These particles reproduce in the vascular system of the plant, causing stunting and the characteristic yellow-green color of leaves, stems, and flowers. Most gardeners will notice that the affected coneflower plants are not doing well and, when they bloom, the flowers have petals or cones that are
yellow-green and abnormally shaped. Sometimes there are leaf-like protrusions coming from the cone of the flower and sometimes the flower rays are elongated and almost leaf-like. This flower-forming-leaf-like parts is called phyllody and is another characteristic of the disease. If Aster Yellows is suspected, the diseased plants should be dug out and bagged, not composted! The best way to control Aster Yellows is to control the Aster Leafhopper. These insects overwinter in the Ozarks region of the southeastern United States and migrate northward on the winds. They arrive in late May to early June and feed on a wide variety of plants. There is no practical chemical control for these sucking insects, but there are a couple of strategies to keep the leafhoppers out of the garden. Researchers have noted that using a light-colored mulch fools the leafhoppers and they are less likely to find their favorite host plants. Also, keeping a good balance of plants that the leafhopper does not prefer, mixed with the coneflowers, helps discourage them. Leafhoppers like a wide range of plants, but they seem to avoid Yarrow, Verbena, and Salvia. Coneflower Rosette can resemble the changes observed with Aster Yellows, but the color of the flower abnormality is the same as the rest of the cone. This flower distortion is caused by a microscopically small Eriophyid mite. These tiny arachnids are not insects, but are more closely related to spiders and that nemesis-of-all gardeners — the two-spotted spider mite. Eriophyid mites
burrow into the tissue of the developing flower bud and their feeding damages the disc florets. Those florets then enlarge and protrude from the rest of the cone structure. The Coneflower Rosette Mite has yet to be identified and named. Generally, Eriophyid mites overwinter as gravid females inside plant debris. The young mites hatch in the spring and move from flower to flower by catching a ride on a breeze or a pollinator. Yup, those busy bumblebees may be spreading the mites! Yikes! The best control strategy for Eriophyid mites is to remove and bag distorted flowers and to clean up all the plant material when it dies down in winter. While you are keeping an eye on the flowers for distortion, you may notice areas of the cone that are black and filled with a granular material. That material is the frass or poop of a burrowing caterpillar inside the flower head. Often, silken webbing covers parts of the flower as well. The offender is often the Sunflower Moth, but other lepidoptera feed on the flower cone as well. Cut the damaged flower off and destroy the larvae found inside. The Sunflower Moth lays her eggs on the newly opened flowers in July through August. The eggs hatch in three to five days and the larvae move into the surface tissue of the cone. Sanitation is important in controlling this pest. The Sunflower Moth overwinters as a pupa in the ground where natural enemies help control it, but removing the larvae is a more reliable control. In all cases, removing the distorted flower (or the entire plant, as in the case of Aster Yellows) is the best method of control. Too often, our compost piles are not hot enough to destroy the pests, so bagging and disposal is recommended. Take a stroll through your garden several times a week, to enjoy the abundance of pollinators, but also to remove distorted flowers! o Carol Allen describes herself as a committable plant-a-holic. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the horticulture industry, with a special interest in plant pests and diseases, and is a Licensed Pesticide Applicator in the states of Maryland. She can be contacted at carolallen@erols.com. Please use pesticides safely! Read and heed all label directions! AUGUST 2015
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EDIBLEharvt
Fall Planting Chart
Vegetables Suggested Planting
Suggested Cultivars
Direct Seed or Transplants Cold Tolerance Days to Maturity
Arugula
Aug. 15 to Sept. 15
Sylvetta
Direct seed
Beets
July 15 to Sept. 15
Broccoli
Very hardy
40
Ruby Queen, Early Wonder, Red Ace, Pacemaker II Direct seed
Semi-hardy
55 to 60
Aug. 1 to Sept. 15
Nutribud, Small Miracle, Early Dividend
Transplants
Hardy
70 to 80
Brussels sprouts
July 1 to 15
Long Island Improved, Jade Cross Hybrid Transplants
Hardy
90 to 100
Cabbage
Aug. 1 to 15
Early Marvel, January King, Red Acre Transplants
Hardy
70 to 80
Aug. 1 to Sept. 15
Pak Choi, Mei Ching, Jade Pagoda, Michihili, Tatsoi, Green Fortune
Direct seed early, transplant late Hardy
50 to 85
Aug. 1 to Sept. 5
Danvers Half Long, Little Finger, Thumbelina, Scarlet Nantes
Direct seed
Hardy
85 to 95
Early Snowball “A,” Violet Queen, Snowcrown
Transplants
Semi-hardy
55 to 65
Direct seed
Cabbage, Chinese Carrots
Cauliflower Aug. 15 to Sept. 1 Cilantro
Aug. 30 to Sept. 30
Hardy
30 to 40
Collards
July 15 to Aug. 30
Vates, Morris’ Improved Heading, Carolina, Blue MaxDirect seed or transplants
Hardy
60 to 100
Endive
Aug. 15 to Sept. 30
White Giant, Rhodos, Eros
Direct seed
Very hardy
45
Garlic
Sept. 30 to Oct. 30
Hardneck or Softneck varieties
Plant cloves
Very hardy
Harvest in June or July
Kale
Aug. 15 to Sept. 1
Green Curled Scotch, Early Siberian, Vates, Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch, Red Russian Direct seed or transplants
Very hardy
40 to 50
Kohlrabi
Aug. 1 to Sept. 1
White Vienna, Grand Duke Hybrid
Hardy
50 to 60
Lettuce
Aug. 15 to Sept. 15
New Red Fire, Buttercrunch, Red Sails, Pablo Batavian Direct seed or transplants
Semi-hardy
40 to 50
Mache
Sept. 1 to 30
Jade
Direct seed
Very hardy
50
Mustard
Aug. 15 to Sept. 30
Osaka Purple, Red Giant, Mizuna, Komatsuna
Direct seed
Hardy
30 to 40
Onions (seeds)
Sept. 1 to 30
Cippolini, Granex, Mars, Southport White Globe
Very hardy
130 to 150
Onions (sets)
Sept. 1 to 15
Very hardy
60 to 80
Parsley
Aug. 15 to Sept. 15
Gigante di Napoli, Extra Curled Dwarf
Very hardy
50 to 60
Radishes
Aug. 15 to Sept. 15
Early Scarlet Globe, Cherry Belle, Green Luobo, China Rose, Red Meat Direct seed
Hardy
25 to 30
Radish, Diakon
Aug. 15 to Sept. 15
April Cross, H. N. Cross
Direct seed
Hardy
60 to 75
Rutabagas
July 1 to Aug. 1
American Purple Top, Laurentian
Direct sow
Semi-hardy
70 to 80
Spinach
Aug. 1 to 15
Hybrid 7, Dark Green Bloomsdale, Savoyed
Direct sow
Very hardy
50 to 60
Aug. 15 to Sept. 1
Purple Top White Globe, Just Right, Tokyo Cross Hybrid, White Egg, All Top Direct sow
Hardy
55 to 60
Turnips 18
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Direct seed or transplants
Early: Direct seed, Late: Transplants
EDIBLEharvt If you’ve successfully navigated through the challenges of growing vegetables in a sultry Washington, DC, summer, you’re ready to expand your gardening repertoire into a new season — fall. When the tomatoes stop producing, and wails of remorse roll over the region, fall vegetable gardeners can revel in the abundance of fresh produce still exciting their palates. Working out in the garden in cooler temperatures and enjoying the Technicolor display are extra bonuses. So sharpen your spade, order a new load of mulch, sift the compost pile, and pull out the cookbooks. Your vegetable gardening journey is about to continue.
Planting Backward
A fall vegetable garden is a repeat of the spring garden, but in reverse. Spring gardening starts with cool soil temperatures, lots of rain, and days that get progressively longer, hotter, and drier. Fall gardening begins with hot temps — both soil and air — a lack of moisture, and days that are getting progressively shorter and cooler. A fall gardener should think of ways to keep the freshly planted seeds cooler, supply enough moisture for germination and growth, and determine if enough days are left on the calendar for vegetables to mature. The third point is arguably the most important. Gardeners must carefully time planting dates so vegetables have enough time to get to the eating stage. As fun as the act of gardening is, most gardeners toil in the soil to produce an edible reward. When choosing what to grow, look in catalogs or on the seed packets to see how long it’s going to take to produce the final product. Then determine when the first killing frost occurs, count backwards, add two weeks, and decide if there is time to grow the crop. The two weeks are added because of the “fall effect” of cooler, shorter days that lengthen the time it takes for plants to yield a harvest. If we have an Indian Summer, harvests may come earlier.
Timing is Everything
In the greater Washington metropolitan area, killing frosts usually occur towards the end of October. Living in the city, where the concrete holds more heat,
may prolong the frost date even longer. Areas further out from the epicenter may experience frosts at an earlier date. A crystal ball would be handy, but don’t be afraid to gamble. The payoff is worth it. Quick mathematical computations show the ideal time to begin a fall vegetable garden is early in August. Don’t despair if the impulse doesn’t hit you until mid-September. Some vegetables will be impossible to grow to maturity, but there is an impressive list of possibilities that will have time to mature if planted in September. There are even vegetables that tolerate or improve their flavor with frosty conditions. See our Fall Planting Chart on page 18 for a list of the many edibles you can grow at this time of year, when to plant them, their hardiness, suggested cultivars for our region, and days to maturity.
Replenish and Replant
After deciding what to plant, turn your attention to the garden. Growing summer’s vegetables — tomatoes, peppers, okra, and especially corn — has depleted many of the soil’s nutrients. It’s time to recondition the soil; “stuff and fluff” the garden beds with compost and organic fertilizers. Next, water the garden deeply. It will help cool off the hot soil and add the moisture necessary to get the seeds or seedlings off to a good start. Then top the beds with a layer of mulch, preferably leaf mulch, to retain the moisture. Deciding whether to plant the seeds directly into the soil or get a head start with container grown seedlings depends on what’s best for the individual vegetable. If the plant especially needs cool, moist conditions to germinate, starting them in a controlled environment and then moving transplants outdoors may give the gardener higher success rates. If the seed will germinate in the hotter, drier conditions present in late summer to early fall, direct seeding is a wise choice. Direct sowing is also a good choice for vegetables that bolt when they are transferred from cool indoor temperatures to warm outdoor temperatures. Asian vegetables are notorious for bolting in such environmental changes. Gardeners have developed tactics
to help them overcome the climatic hardships faced in fall gardening. Presprouting seeds and allowing shoots to grow an inch long before planting will reduce the “fall effect” by two to five days. Planting seeds twice as deep as recommended will help keep them moist and increase germination rate. Placing a plank over newly planted seeds may help retain moisture, but removing the plank right as seedlings poke through the soil is crucial. It is far easier to apply a thin layer of leaf mulch on top of seed rows. Just deep enough to keep the soil moist, but not too deep to smother the seedlings; about an inch of mulch should work. Protect young seedlings and fresh transplants from the harsh sun by covering with floating row covers (Reemay cloth) or strategically placed umbrellas.
Frost Protection
At first, the fall gardener’s mantra should be: “Keep veggies cool and moist.” Once you’ve established the fall crops and the season progresses, the mantra switches to, “Protect veggies from frost.” Growing vegetables in a coldframe is the ultimate season extender. Surrounding beds on all sides with straw bales and covering with floating row covers or old windows will also extend harvest dates. An easy way to protect root crops like carrots, parsnips, beets and Asian radishes, is to cover them with a thick layer of mulch (6 to 8 inches) the day before a heavy frost is forecast. The mulch simply has to be pushed aside before digging your Christmas carrots. The most important tool for a successful vegetable garden, no matter what the season, is a journal. Start keeping records of what you planted, when you planted, when you harvested, and if you enjoyed the flavor. If it didn’t mature before the frost, how much sooner should you have planted it? Or would you plant it again at all? Don’t be afraid to experiment in your gardening journey. Just write down the results for a true learning experience. After all, a lesson isn’t learned if you can’t remember it. o By Cindy Brown of Smithsonian Gardens. Reprinted from Washington Gardener Magazine’s Sept/Oct 2008 issue. AUGUST 2015
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NEIGHBORnwork
Meet Michael Mastrota Landscape Architect at American University
by Marissa Paiano Michael Mastrota is a native to the DC area, growing up in Virginia and now working as a landscape architect for American University (AU). During his time at AU, the campus has become a certified arboretum. In May of this year, Best Choice Schools ranked it the fourth-most-beautiful urban college campus in the United States. We caught up with him at this year’s Green Industry Professional Field Day held each year at AU’s campus.
Q: Tell us about your background. A: I grew up in Northern Virginia and from there, I went to Virginia Tech, actually to be an architecture major. I’d never heard of landscape architecture at the time. My first year there, the person sitting next to me in our first design studio class was a landscape architecture major. I got to know them a little bit and turned out that I really started to like landscape architecture more because I like being outside, I like the environment. I was able to switch and got my degree in landscape architecture from Tech and then started to work in Northern Virginia at what then was a small-design office/architecture firm, 20
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and also went back to school at night to the Northern Virginia Center of the University of Virginia and got a degree in environmental planning. That office I was working for grew, to about 20 people, which is a good medium-sized landscape architecture firm. I left there and went to the National Park Service for three years and worked there. I worked on a lot of different parks in the Mid-Atlantic area, up to Cape Cod and Gettysburg as well as those in the Washington metropolitan area. Then, this job at American University was advertised and that’s how I got here. That was about 18 years ago and it’s been a really interesting experience for me professionally, plus I’ve met a lot of nice people and have the opportunity to work with very talented colleagues. One of the unique things here that you don’t get a lot of times in landscape architecture is that we have our maintenance staff right here in-house, and I’m able to interact with them and have a say in how the gardens are maintained.
Q: What is your favorite part of your career? A: I really enjoy being outside. There are times, certainly, where we’re confined to an office setting, doing drawings on the computer, but the nice thing here is that you design something you get to see it used by the students and the faculty and staff of the university, and that’s really rewarding. I don’t think you get to see that as often, say, in working in a private practice or public sector. I have kind of the unique experience of working in a private office, which has to be profit-driven, and then public sector with the National Park Service, and then here at the university, where it’s a nonprofit, but certainly the need to cultivate and attract new students is important. Q: What is a typical day like for you? A: There really isn’t a typical day. Every day is a little different. I guess usually what I have planned for the day, I get some of that done, but there are always a few things that are unplanned that seem to pop up. Sometimes, there are unusual things. For example, the university every year does a video, kind of a holiday card, that goes out to all alumni and neighbors. It used to be an actual physical card, but now it’s a video that’s emailed or posted on the web site. So, one day, I got the call that we’re doing this video and we need to have a bunch of plants for the backdrop, we want to have some people, so we helped organize that. Right now, we have a lot of projects under construction. For instance, across the street, we have a five-building complex under construction that is going to be new residence halls, academic buildings, and other administrative uses, so I am involved in that. We give a lot of tours of the arboretum. One of things I really do like about the job is a lot of variety, never two days that are the same, which keeps things interesting. Q: What are some of your biggest achievements so far at American University? A: I’d say we’ve really changed the look of the university. We call it a transformation. There’s an article in the Washington Post by Adrian Higgins where he talked about the rejuvenation of the
NEIGHBORnwork
Photo courtesy of American University.
Q: How about some of the challenges you face? A: I am fortunate to work with a talented team of professionals, so I do not have to face the challenges alone. Our team also consists of horticulturist Mark Feist, landscape architect H. Paul Davis, and horticulturist/certified arborist Stephanie DeStefano, as well as a dedicated staff of groundskeepers and support staff. One challenge is finding new ways to use the Arboretum to promote AU and to connect with the academic components of the university.And I guess there are always challenges as far as main-
Photo courtesy of American University.
campus. I think that’s really what’s happened. When I look back at some of these before-and-after pictures we give in presentations, it’s rewarding to see the changes that have occurred. Even being here every day, you really forget how things used to look, how stark they were, how unwelcoming they appeared and now, This whole idea of creating the arboretum has not only changed the appearance, but is a great tool to help promote AU and attract students, faculty, and staff. And the other thing that really helps is the feedback we get all the time from parents, students, and alums who come back to campus and say, “Wow, I had no idea the campus is an arboretum now,” and “I had no idea it looks this way,” and” “I’m so proud I went here,” and “I’m glad you’re doing what you’re doing.” Hearing positive feedback from neighbors is really great. The arboretum has a Facebook page and we’re really taking off on the number of likes we have. Another validation is now the university’s Facebook page is linking to ours more often and some of our pictures or posts we put out will get 80,000 people viewing them, which is great.
taining the campus. We’re trying to use fewer pesticides, but that creates some other challenges of what to do when you’ve got a weed issue or a problem with a plant? We have lots of challenges with some of the old hardscape — maintaining it and having enough money to do it. You know you get a budget every year and you try to prioritize what’s most important, making sure that nothing out there is hazardous to anyone, whether it’s a dead tree or a limb that could fall or a broken piece of sidewalk that’s going to be tripping hazard. We go through regularly and inventory those types of problems and correct them. I guess one of the bigger challenges is we have a lot of great ideas that we’d love to implement, if we had the funding. At any university, there are always people struggling for funding, whether it’s a new building, scholarships, etc. Q: What plants are your favorite to use and which do not work as well at the university? A: One of my favorites is Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’). I like it because it’s nice and upright, it changes colors throughout the seasons. Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) is another one; we like it because it blooms a long time, it really requires no maintenance other than you cut it back once a year. Bumblebees like it and it doesn’t require a lot of water. Both of those are actually nonnative. The Coneflower (Echinacea sp.) is a native plant and butterflies love it — it’s a pollinator plant.
Some plants we’ve planted have turned out to be too aggressive. One of them that we’ve had trouble with is the native Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium); it just self-seeds all over and it just goes wild. We have a couple things like it that we don’t plant any longer. Maybe it’s because of global warming, but some plants that we have been planting have been available in nurseries for years are starting to become borderline invasive. I can see, as time goes on, we may end up having to quit planting some of the things we do like. Q: What do you do when it’s not the growing season? A: It’s never slow, which is good. I think one of the big misconceptions people have when they hear the word landscape they think of plants. They think it’s all about trees, shrubs, and turf. There’s been discussion whether they should change the name of the profession to something else because landscape architects get involved in way more than just plants, it’s just a piece of what they do. So, for example, here at the university, the way I like to define the arboretum is that it’s pretty much everything that happens outside the walls of the buildings, which includes the façades of the building because the buildings create the spaces of the outdoors. We get involved in how spaces are used, when there are big events, creating the little nooks for conversation, the utilities, bollards (which are ways to preProfile continued on next page AUGUST 2015
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GOINGnative Mastrota profile continued
Yellow Star Grass
by Barry Glick Not very many plants come to mind that would conjure up the use of the adjective “adorable” to describe them, but in this case, I deem it justifiable. “Yellow Star Grass” is a very appropriate common name for Hypoxis hirsuta, although the yellow color of the flowers is so brilliant, you may want to call it “Golden Star Grass” instead. Put on your sunglasses, kids! A plant native to all but nine western states on the mainland US and all, but two western provinces of Canada, Hypoxis hirsuta deserves a place in every type of garden. Its diminutive size makes it a perfect choice for a sunny or shady rock garden. However, its woodland nature makes it a perfect choice for any shade or wild garden. The fact that it loves to soak up the sun, also makes it suitable for the front of any sunny perennial border. It’s not very particular about soil moisture either, as I’ve grown it in damp and in dry conditions, and it seems equally happy just about anywhere. I can’t think of very many plants, native or otherwise, that are this forgiving. Hypoxis hirsuta was a member of Liliaceae, the Lily family, then Amaryllidaceae, the Amaryllis family, but recently, taxonomists have created a new plant family, Hypoxidaceae — talk about a plant with an identity problem. The name of the genus, Hypoxis, is derived from the Greek, hypo, which means below, and oxy, which means pointed, and refers to the points of the petals. 22
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The species name, hirsuta, is indicative of the very fine hairs on the blades of the foliage. Hypoxis hirsuta is the only North American member of the genus. All of the others are South African. Hypoxis hirsuta grows to be about three to six inches tall with an equal spread. Eventually, they’ll gently selfsow into a natural colony. Various species of bees, flies, and beetles visit its flowers to feed on it’s pollen and nectar. I’ve read that Native Americans collected the plant to make a tea that was used to treat heart conditions and the corm was used to treat ulcers. According to The Cherokee Herbal: Native Plant Medicine from the Four Directions, it can be used to treat depression and to enhance mood. While I can’t confirm or endorse using it medicinally, I can sure recommend it as an easy-to-grow, long-lived garden plant. And seeing it bloom repeatedly over its long growing season, sure staves away depression for me. o Barry Glick, a transplanted Philadelphian, has been residing in Greenbrier County, WV, since 1972. His mountaintop garden and nursery is a mecca for gardeners from virtually every country in the world. Barry writes and lectures extensively about native plants and Hellebores, his two main specialties, and welcomes visitors with advance notice. He can be reached at barry@sunfarm.com, www.sunfarm.com, or 304.497.2208.
vent cars from coming in certain areas), safety, marketing, so there really isn’t a slow time. People always ask, “Well, you’re a landscape architect; what do you do in the winter time?” Well in the winter, there’s a lot of maintenance going on, we do a lot of our pruning in the winter. It’s a great time to do our inventory for our hardscape. You get those cold, snowy days where you don’t want to be outside, but that’s a great time to do things on your computer for planning for the next year. We have tree tags, and winter is also a great time to plan for the next round of tree-tagging for that coming year. So we’re busy throughout the year. There’s never a slow time. Q: Where can people contact you? A: We’re open to the public; we love to give arboretum tours. We often give tours to local garden clubs and other outside groups. We also have a sustainability office and they give interesting tours. Sometimes we’ll combine efforts and give a sustainable/green/arboretum tour, which is educational. There are a couple ways to contact us. The best way is to email me at mastrot@american.edu. You can pick up one of our brochures; they should be available in the library or the university center, which has a self-guided tour. We also have a web site (www.american. edu/finance/facilities/Arboretum.cfm) that has a podcast you can download and bring with you to take that self-guided tour and hear our voices describing some of the areas. Q: Anything else you want to add or think would be of interest to our magazine readers? A: We have a Friends of the Arboretum Group, which is a group of supporters, and every year, we have a Friends of the Arboretum luncheon. (This year, it’s in October.) Readers who are interested in becoming Friends of the Arboretum can contact me by email. o Marissa Paiano is a summer intern at Washington Gardener Magazine. She studies journalism at the University of Maryland and, in her free time, she enjoys reading and exploring DC.
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