Go Travel New Zealand Winter 2015

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Winter Edition 2015 NZ 9.90 EUR 7.50 USA 12.50 AUS 9.90 INR 450 www.gotravelnewzealand.com


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Go Travel NZ 路 Winter 2015


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Editor’s Note

Publisher James Lynch

Editor Sarah Bell sarahb@waterfordpress.co.nz

Sub Editor Patti Brown

Graphic Designer Mike Parker

Administration Helen Bourne, Jill Holland accounts@waterfordpress.co.nz

North Island Sales Alasdair Thomson alasdair@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5530

South Island Sales Chris McPhee chris.mcphee@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 398 35507

Kia Ora Our magazine is evolving! Over the last couple of editions, we have witnessed a slick new look being unrolled, and increased diversity of coverage in all things related to travel in this beautiful country. Read on now as we reveal New Zealand in all its winter glory. I’ve been thinking about how travel marks transitions in our lives. We set off on these trips to be transformed. As Lyn Cheyne discovers in “Puanga, a spiritual celebration”, these travels may not visibly change you, but they can change how you feel, how you think. Snow fueled adventures abound - “Uncharted Territory” is a first-hand account sharing the rush of heli skiing. Rosemary Neilson’s Winter Sports feature details all you need to know to have a memorable ski holiday anywhere in New Zealand. I find the sport of Snow Kiting particularly intriguing – it’s similar to Kite Surfing, but on snow!

Operations Manager Scott Homer scott@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5519

NZ, AUS & International Distribution IPS Australia Jetstar In-Flight Digital

New Zealand Head Office 112 Wrights Road Addington, Christchurch +64 (0) 3 983 5500

Queenstown Office 70 Glenda Drive, Queenstown PO Box 2581, Wakatipu Queenstown 9349

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Slice of Heaven is exactly that; an intimate look at two of New Zealand’s premiere luxury lodges, Terrace Downs and Poronui Lodge. Wish list, bucket list, call it what you like, just put a stay at either of these destinations on yours and make it happen. Discover The Lost Spring, in Coromandel - a magical and secluded retreat that combines the restorative powers of nature’s own geo-thermal hot springs with modern spa culture. Yes please! Head to Marlborough for an interesting read on the Karearea, New Zealand’s only endemic bird of prey, and the efforts of the Marlborough Falcon Trust to ensure the continuation of this magnificent but dwindling species. It may be winter, but there’s more than snow on offer. 90 Mile Beach is home to some of the best sand dune riding you could ever hope for. Join Patti Brown in Northland and find out why it’s such a hot spot year round. It’s fair to say, that any time of year is a good time to visit New Zealand.

Published by

Printed by Sarah Bell, Editor sarahb@waterfordpress.co.nz

ISSN 2357-2183 (Print) ISSN 2357-2191 (Online) 6

Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

Cover Image: Nick Flyvbjerg Location Roundhill Ski Area


CONTENTS WINTER SPORTS

8

Peak experiences in a winter wonderland

HELI-SKIING

16

Uncharted territory, a heli ski adventure

THERMAL HIGHWAY

20

An unforgettable journey through the Volcanic Loop

SLICE OF HEAVEN

26

Luxury Lodges: The very best in New Zealand accommodation

IMAGE: ©Maki Yanagimachi/Earth&Sky Ltd Milky Way and two Magellanic Clouds over Earth&Sky’s Astrocafe on the summit of Mt.John

REGIONS FIORDLAND

32

QUEENSTOWN

38

ARROWTOWN

46

WANAKA

50

MACKENZIE

58

WESTCOAST

66

CANTERBURY

70

KAIKOURA

74

MARLBOROUGH

78

WHANGANUI

82

RUAPEHU

88

TARANAKI

92

ROTORUA

96

TAUPO

102

BAY OF PLENTY

106

COROMANDEL

112

AUCKLAND

116

NORTHLAND

122

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 7


BY ROSEMARY NEILSON


IMAGE: Kite Sports / Graeme Murray


There’s not much that has not already been written about New Zealand’s ski regions…. Thousands of words have been set down on hundreds of pages about the vast sweeps of snow backdropped by improbably perfect white-capped peaks. Type “Southern Alps” into Google’s search engine and it comes up with scores of images of the epic landscapes immortalised in Peter Jackson’s movies based on the fantasy tales of JRR Tolkien. Much less, however, has been stated about how easy it is to get to these magical places, or how much else besides skiing or snowboarding there is to do when you’re there. It’s fair to say that New Zealand is Australia’s best ski holiday destination - easy to reach, with countless options for snow sports and off-piste activities. The Southern Lakes and Canterbury are just a three-hour flight from Australia’s eastern seaboard ports, and the North Island ski fields are no great distance from Auckland and other domestic airports.

Within moments of landing at Queenstown or Christchurch international airports on a direct connection from Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sydney and Melbourne, you can be picking up the keys to a rental car already fitted with snow chains and, if needed, ski racks. It’s no stretch at all for visitors to touch down in Queenstown in the morning and be on the slopes at Coronet Peak by lunchtime. The South Island’s winter season, extending for almost five months from mid-June through early October, truly justifies its reputation as an adventure playground. Ski and snowboarding options are unlimited, and there’s something for everyone, whether it’s their first time on the snow or their hundredth outing. And with literally hundreds of off-mountain activities in resplendent settings below the snowline, there’s more magic every day. Beginners can be finding their snow legs on gentle lower slopes while more seasoned skiers and boardies pit themselves against

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the intermediate and advanced runs and back country terrain. Breathtaking scenery merges with breathtaking action in activities like heliskiing on remote back-country slopes, or high-speed ice driving, dog sledding, bungy jumping and jet boating. For those less daring or energetic, there are hot springs and spa resorts, scenic flights, stargazing, golf courses and wineries, all within easy reach of Christchurch and the Southern Lakes centres. The resort towns, fully geared up for tourists, offer first-rate shopping, fine wining and dining, and world-class aprèsski. Unlike poor Bilbo Baggins, who lamented the lack of good food during his heroic quest in The Hobbit, weary wayfarers can savour their day’s adventures at tables featuring sparkling fresh produce and innovative cuisine. The main South Island ski destinations are Mt Hutt in Canterbury, and the Southern Lakes district, featuring the resort towns of Queenstown and Wanaka. In the North Island, Mt Ruapehu offers the Whakapapa and Turoa ski fields.

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As the hub for the wider Canterbury region, Christchurch is the gateway to the Mt Hutt and Porters ski fields, as well as smaller boutique ski areas and other spectacular destinations. Staying in Christchurch makes it possible to intersperse day trips to world-class ski resorts with big-city thrills – shopping, performing arts at the lovingly restored heritage Isaac Theatre Royal and lively nightlife and eateries in Victoria and St Asaph Streets. Also close at hand are wineries, gardens and mountain bike trails in the Port Hills, plus wind-propelled action aboard Blokarts and battery-driven Driftkarts at Velocity Karts’ purpose-built tracks.

Lake Wakatipu

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The nearest skiing to Christchurch is at Porters, offering terrain suitable for skiers and snowboarders of all abilities. Stunning vistas encompass Lake Coleridge and the Southern Alps, and extend across the Canterbury Plains to the city. Children aged under seven ski free, and under twelve-year-olds with an adult on a full-day all-lift ticket also ski free. Learners can access a new beginners’ slope directly from the carpark. Canterbury’s premier ski destination is Mt Hutt, with views as far as the eye can see across the patchworked Canterbury Plains to the Pacific Ocean. There are black diamond runs, back country trails and beginner areas. Children ski for free. Accommodation is at Methven, an hour’s drive from Christchurch Airport. The resort town’s characteristic southern hospitality is expressed in the buzzy conviviality of its cafés and restaurants, bars and shows. Also on offer are heliskiing, scenic walks, horse riding, hot air ballooning, jet boating down the Rakaia Gorge and one of the country’s top golf resorts, Terrace Downs. South from Methven, lies charming Tekapo – an alpine village in a stunning lakeside setting. The Mt John research observatory’s night-time tours of the star-studded skies are a highlight of a visit to Tekapo, but it also has an international-sized outdoor ice rink, hot pools and day spa, and lies within easy reach of Ohau Ski Lodge and ski fields in the Mackenzie Basin.

IMAGE: Kite Sports / Graeme Murray

12 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


SNOW KITE NZ

Overlooked by New Zealand’s highest mountain, Aoraki Mount Cook, and the jagged Southern Alps, the boutique ski fields of Ohau, Roundhill and Mt Dobson encompass expansive skiing and snowboarding terrain in dramatic landscapes dotted with piercingly blue ice-fed lakes. Lake Ohau Lodge offers a warm welcome, while the town of Omarama, near the southern end of the Mackenzie Basin, has outdoor hot tubs in private landscaped sites. On remote slopes of Mount Cook, heliskiers can carve their lines down untracked slopes that seemingly go on forever. Elsewhere on the mountain but equally inaccessible, ski planes land on New Zealand’s longest glacier, the Tasman Glacier, from where guides lead skiers on runs up to 12 kilometres long, exploring ice caves and canyons along the way.

Other notable boutique ski areas with gorgeous views and uncrowded slopes within two hours west of Christchurch airport are Broken River, Mt Cheeseman, Craigieburn and Mt Olympus. Mt Lyford is equidistant from the hot springs resort town of Hanmer in one direction and Kaikoura, with its whale watching and dolphin swimming tours, in the other.

Photo: Pascal Boulgakow Rider / Pilot: Chasta

There is a variety of exciting ways to explore these fascinating caves and crevasses. With heli-hiking and heli-climbing available on the Tasman glacier, you really get up close and personal with these fantastic sculptures of ice. With tours of up to four hours, and all the climbing equipment and instruction provided, make sure you get the chance to go home knowing the indescribable feeling of standing in a glacial ice cave.

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SOUTHERN LAKES

The Southern Lakes’ other resort town is Wanaka, accessed from Queenstown’s international terminal via the Crown Range Road. It’s not unrealistic to plan to spend half a week in Queenstown and the other half in Wanaka. While the most direct route between the two involves only about 60 minutes driving, the road via Gibbston Valley is about 20 minutes longer but provides the opportunity to make the acquaintance of eight wineries producing award-winning Central Otago pinot noirs, and take a bungy jump along the way (not necessarily in that order).

IMAgINE PowERINg yoURSELf UP THE HILL!

THE ULTIMATE Ski or Board riding EXPERIENCE!

Wanaka’s two ski areas are Treble Cone and Cardrona. Both ski areas are within a 30-minute drive from town, and Cardrona - which is on the Crown Range road - is an hour from Queenstown. Treble Cone, with the largest ski area and the highest vertical drop in the Southern Lakes, caters to more advanced skiers. Its steeper inclines provide unrivalled views across Lake Wanaka.

Photo: Graeme Murray Rider / Pilot: Matt Taggart

Queenstown’s two world-class ski areas are Coronet Peak and The Remarkables. Coronet Peak has extraordinary views from its rolling terrain, and offers night skiing on Fridays and Saturdays. The Remarkables, well suited to families and novices, has an easy progression of trails from beginner to intermediate and plenty of advanced terrain for the experts to explore. A new base building seats more than 640 people indoors, with decks and outdoor seating on three sides providing amazing views.

IMAGE: Kite Sports / Graeme Murray

NO lifts, NO queues, NO crowds - max FUN! Similar to kitesurfing, but on the snow! Huge amounts of UNTRACKED POWDER! Get going with a kite on your first day! Backcountry Adventure with an Instructor

www.kitesports.co.nz info@kitesports.co.nz Cell: 0064-21542770 Shop: 0064-33884783 www.gotravelnewzealand.com 13


TASMAN GLACIER

HELI-HIKING AORAKI/MOUNT COOK NATIONAL PARK

IMAGE: Southern Alps Guiding

A high point, quite literally, of a visit to Wanaka is soaring above the lakes in one of Classic Flights at Lake Wanaka’s open cockpit biplanes – either a 1930s Waco or 1940s Tiger Moth. The Warbirds & Wheels museum traces the evolution of fighting aircraft from the First World War and has a lineup of painstakingly restored vintage cars and motorcycles. Snow Farm - midway between Wanaka and Queenstown on the Crown Range road - is a former high country sheep station that specialises in cross country (Nordic) skiing on 55 hectares of scenic trails, but also offers snow shoeing, a ski school and a family fun zone with tubes and sledges. A relatively new sport to New Zealand, snow-kiting, is starting to gain great traction. Kite-skiers up the Cardrona Valley and other mountains, have been taking advantage of the perfect conditions, and it’s forecast that 2015 is going to see the continued rise of this sport. Imagine no lifts, no queues and carving uphill through vast amounts of deep, untracked powder, and you will see why this sport is starting to make a name for itself.

MOUNT RUAPEHU

Visit us at The Old Mountaineers’ Cafe, Restaurant & Bar 3 Larch Grove Road, Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park p. 03 4351890 mountcook@xtra.co.nz www.mtcook.com OutdoorsMark

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14 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

Adventure Activities

The North Island’s winter playgrounds, notably Whakapapa and Turoa on Mount Ruapehu, have the added advantage of bringing visitors in close proximity to the splendour of Lake Taupo and Rotorua’s intriguing mud pools and geysers. Aviation companies offer scenic flights by helicopter or light plane over the island’s two highest peaks, Taranaki and Ruapehu. Whakapapa boasts 30 groomed trails, 14 lifts and back-country terrain with plenty for hard-core skiers and snowboarders, and close by is the old-world euro-elegance of

Chateau Tongariro. Turoa, New Zealand’s highest ski area has a 4-kilometre-long run and three terrain parks in addition to its steep chutes and snow-filled bowls. There’s a 90-minute walk to the crater of the still-active volcano, and plenty of off-mountain party action in nearby Ohakune township. Dollar for dollar, New Zealand ski holidays offer very good value, with more ski fields, more mountains and more to do off mountain. Because of their geographical location and high altitudes, the ski fields offer more consistent conditions, giving more certainty and predictability to travel and touring plans. Holidaymakers whose time is tightly budgeted can plan ahead and book online to ensure no moments are wasted, while others with more time on their hands can make it up as they go, either basing themselves at a central spot they can easily move around or free-ranging between towns and ski fields. No great distances are involved, the roads are easily navigable and offer spectacular touring. Wherever you choose to go, you’ll be following in epic Hobbit footsteps as you explore mythical landscapes frosted with winter finery. Just like Bilbo Baggins in The Hobbit, it will be an exhilarating and enchanted journey “there and back again”, with the added benefits of modern-day comfort and up-to-theminute technology.

For complete information on booking winter holidays in New Zealand, visit www.newzealand.com


NEW: SHPG ICE DRIVING EXPERIENCE What is it? The SHPG Ice-Driving Experience is an exclusive ice driving experience accompanied by luxury accommodation, an architecturally designed event centre and true New Zealand hospitality in a spectacular and private alpine setting. Located at the world renowned Southern Hemisphere Proving Grounds – it’s one of only a select few available during the NZ winter months. This is a once in a lifetime driving experience where you will be guided through the basics of car control on the ice surfaces, before moving into more dynamic driving where you’ll experience the thrill of our snow circles and slalom courses. The day finishes with timed laps on our autocross course where bragging rights and the winners cap will be awarded.

or only 10 minutes via helicopter. Experience first-hand the thrill of driving on these expertly prepared snow and ice facilities whilst under the tutelage of some of NZ’s best professional drivers! Who is it for? Our driving experiences are designed for groups, with a minimum of six people. With staying the night optional, the programs are very flexible and can be designed to fit around a conference, business meeting or product launch in our onsite event centre.

Where is it? Based out of the Southern Hemisphere Proving Grounds near Queenstown, where automobile car, component and tyre manufacturers come to each year to develop new models in winter conditions. 1hr from Queenstown or 45mins from Wanaka by car,

www.icedriving.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 15


UNCHARTED TERRITORY A HELI SKI ADVENTURE by Rebecca Bond 16 Go Travel NZ 路 Winter 2015


OKAY SO THIS IS IT; I AM AT THE ALPINE HELI SKI OFFICE TO SIGN MY WAIVER FORM AND MEET THE GUIDES. I AM HANDED A FORM AND TIM O’LEARY – OWNER & CHIEF GUIDE TALKS ME THROUGH TOMORROW’S ADVENTURE – “BLUE BIRD DAY TOMORROW, IT IS GOING TO BE A FANTASTIC DAY – THE SNOW IS THE BEST SO FAR THIS SEASON”.

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Rarely has my mind clung to such a precarious emotional knife-edge. On the one side, unbridled sheer excitement and the other wanting to throw-up from nerves at the thought of my first time in a helicopter, the drop, the isolation and the uncharted territory of vertical ski terrain. A question turns over and over in my head: am I really good enough to heliski? According to Tim, yes. If you are a strong intermediate skier you will have no problem – and it will be one of the best days of your life. A major feature on any keen skier or rider’s wish list, heliskiing has always conjured up images in my mind of dropping from a chopper with skis metres above a near-vertical, waist wide gully into deep powder, with nothing to get me down the mountain but adrenalin, faith and sheer determination. The next morning, as promised I am picked up from my hotel and taken to the heli pad; there are five of us in our group. We meet up with Tim and Elliott our guides for the day; they get busy sorting the kit – transceivers, shovels, air bags. Oh my god, what have I let myself in for? We are told it is all procedural and the chances of us being buried in an avalanche on this bluebird late July morning are “very slim”.

Most of us are in the same heliski virgin boat, I am pleased to write, with me being the only woman. Glancing around during the safety briefing (pull the red loop on your airbag in case of an avalanche, make sure your transceiver’s working, don’t stand up by spinning blades) I see the same expression on each face; anxious anticipation, and sheer horror. Elliott hands me a backpack and checking it fits perfectly, gives me a much needed reassuring smile. I lay my skis and poles in the pick-up zone for him to load into the chopper, take cover 15m back, take a deep breath and wait for the go signal.

We are in now, belts on and no going back. We do a circle over the airport and take off to the west heading to one of Alpine Heliski’s exclusive locations, Mt Nicholas Station, where the wool comes from for the famous Icebreaker clothing brand. This can’t get any better, I thought as we flew over snow topped mountains and a crystal clear blue lake. We head to the top of a ridge, and my head starts spinning, and my hands are all sweaty as the helicopter’s skids touch down. My heart is pumping as I tell myself to remember the drill - duck down, clear the blades and do as directed. We all huddle together and wait until we get the signal.

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Tim and Elliot empty the ski pod of our gear and signal all clear to Nick the pilot. I look around at the panoramic alpine beauty as the helicopter lifts off, up and away; I have have never felt a rush quite like this before. We are alone; there is barely a bird in the piercing blue sky, and all around is silence. I am so used to the ever-present din of the chaotic commercial slopes that the peace seems surreal. I am left astounded by the emptiness and beauty. As I glance around, the terrain is much more genteel than I expected. The slopes of Mt Nicholas are lovely rolling wide open spaces that seem to go on forever. The run we are about to do (“Twice as Nice”) looks out of this world - wow, this is going to be epic! Tim calls out “follow one at a time” as he slips into his first turn, the soft, mid-morning snow spraying out beneath his fat skis – thankfully I had rented a pair of these

(sound advice from my guides). My group exchange a few nervous nods and arrange ourselves into a punctuated line with Elliot bringing up the rear. I slot in about halfway, not wanting to be too close to the front or too near the back. I make my first few turns carefully, getting a feel for the new season snow. I hear Tim’s words echoing in my mind “heliskiing is for everyone”. My ski legs come back; I start to relax into the slope and cruise over the white crests, finding my way down the valley. I begin to realise heliskiing is about more than discovering insanely gnarly pow pow – (a boys’ day out) – it’s about the experience as a whole; the preparation, the lift, the drop, the silence, the isolation, then the descent. It takes us just under an hour to reach the bottom of the valley where we await our lift. The helicopter is heard before seen then within 30 seconds it lands. I pick up my skis

and move towards it, but Elliott gestures me back. The chopper’s blades slow before chugging to a stop, and Tim reaches in and brings out a hamper – our lunch. Tim and Elliot prepare a snow table for our picnic lunch of hot pies, rolls and sandwiches with soup. I can’t believe I am having a picnic in such a remote and beautiful mountain setting. Soon we are ushered back into the helicopter to complete our two further runs of our three-run day, “Crystal Glide” and “Bottom Less” which turned out to be just as outstanding as “Twice as Nice”. Our return flight to Queenstown Airport and Alpine Heliski’s base was a fitting end to an amazing day as we flew down the Von River Gorge, with serious canyons and fast flowing water emptying into the great lake Wakatipu. I am still grinning now, safe in the knowledge that my nerves had gotten a little carried away; heliskiing is not the brutal, cold-blooded monster of a hell trip I had let myself worry it was. There is a softer side just as exhilarating and frankly awesome without being terrifying. It is still a white-knuckle experience, but one for which the balance of anticipation can be firmly kept to childish excitement rather than blubbering fear. You need not be in the top percentile of revered skiers or riders (half decent should do it). In short – one of the best experiences I have ever had! GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 19


THERMAL EXPLORER HIGHWAY

20 Go Travel NZ 路 Winter 2015


Sulphur Point, Rotorua IMAGE: Explorecentralnorthislandnz.com

An unforgettable six-day journey through the heart of the Central North Island taking in everything from Hobbit holes and rolling green hills to geothermal wonderlands, Maori cultural experiences, pristine lakes, volcanic mountains and amazing Art Deco architecture. An exciting and ever-changing landscape and experience.

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 21


DAY 1 Freedom to explore

Time to collect my rental car from the helpful and friendly team at Spaceships Rentals; I am so impressed with the compact Rocket that is not only comfortable and roomy but is kitted out with everything I need if I decide to camp on my road trip. It is time to depart Auckland and commence my journey along the Thermal Explorer Highway. The scenery of rolling green hills and pasture synonymous with the Hamilton and Waikato region is picture-perfect. On arrival at Waitomo Caves, I find a wide range of underground activities to choose from. Deciding to bypass the more adrenalin-fuelled adventures I take the option to explore the towering stalactites and stalagmites and spend time gazing at the fascinating canopy of twinkling glow worms. A truly memorable experience. Heading back to Hamilton for the night I am keen to spend some time in Hamilton City. Dinner out this evening proves the central city has a vibrant dining and bar district. A great way to wrap up the first day of my adventures.

The Tudor Garden, at Hamilton Gardens

DAY 2 Up early today to visit the Hamilton Gardens (voted by the International Garden Tourism Network as International Garden of the Year for 2014 – a coveted accolade). Passing through the main gates and admiring the stunning stone cloak from acclaimed artist Chris Booth, I sense that this place is something quite special. The garden collections are truly outstanding, and as I pass through each gateway a new visual experience awaits. The recently completed Tudor garden (as part of the fantasy collection) is a visual and cerebral feast of geometric patterns and double meaning symbolism. Certainly the couple of hours allocated was not nearly enough to truly appreciate the variety of plantings or vastness of the complex.

Customised campers for hire www.spaceshipsrentals.co.nz

It’s time to hit the road and travel further along the Thermal Explorer Highway towards Rotorua. The prospect of visiting the Hobbiton Movie Set, where they filmed the Shire from The Lord of the Rings Trilogy and The Hobbit, is exciting. It feels like I am taking a walk through Middle-earth itself with all the greenery and gorgeous dwellings woven organically into the rolling landscape. You need to allow a couple of hours to really take it all in. Too soon, it’s time to head off again. I still have another 45 minutes to go to reach the next destination – Rotorua – New Zealand’s longest established tourism hub and home to some very impressive geothermal activity. It’s a pleasantly scenic cruise to the All Seasons Holiday Park, where I park up the “Rocket” for the night.


Map courtesy of Explorecentralnorthislandnz.com

DAY 3 After a restful sleep, I wake feeling excited in anticipation of exploring Rotorua. This town has long been on the international visitor radar due to the unique geothermal activity and Maori cultural offerings. Visitors here are truly spoilt for choice, with mountain biking, contemporary cultural experiences, adventure activities, ziplining, cruising, and fantastic walking also on offer. I decide to go ziplining, as it has been highly recommended to me, and is something I have never done before! The guides bring the forest to life on a three-hour adventure including flying foxes, walking tracks and suspended bridges. It was a privilege to see some of New Zealand’s last remnants of untouched native forest and hear prolific bird song.

“THE SCENERY OF ROLLING GREEN HILLS AND PASTURE SYNONYMOUS WITH THE HAMILTON

AND WAIKATO REGION IS PICTURE-PERFECT

On a high after my zipline adventure, I take time to relax and relive the moment over a long lunch. It is late afternoon by the time I make my way to my next destination along the Thermal Highway; the Lakeside town of Taupo. Lake Taupo is New Zealand’s largest lake and dominates the views from this picturesque region. Simply stunning!


DAY 4 The next morning a long list of ideas swirls in my head. I strike out for the famous Huka Falls, a place I have often heard of but never seen. The beauty of the water, as it cascades over the famous falls in a thundery wet cacophony of almost frightening proportions, is mesmerizing. The power comes from the Waikato River (normally 100m wide) being squeezed through a 20-metre wide gorge and over a 20-metre drop. Next on my agenda is a chance to get up close and personal with the falls in a Huka Jetboat. The ride is incredible, and the excitement filled half-hour flies by. The backdrop to the to the trip is beautiful native forest, cliff faces and natural hot springs and thanks to the tiered seats everyone has a great view. Our expert driver skims past the cliffs and plays in the tail of the powerful falls finishing up with an exhilarating 360-degree spin that has me grinning for the rest of the day!

DAY 5

Up early today to make my way to the Ruapehu Region via the Volcanic Loop Highway - an absolute haven for hiking, biking and snow sports! It’s home to the Tongariro National Park, a dual World Heritage Park and home to the wonderful Turoa and Whakapapa ski-fields in the winter months. I am not planning to mountain bike or ski or have myself sorted to tackle the outstanding Tongariro Alpine Crossing (a 19km full day walk); I do however find myself drawn to the National Army Museum. 2015 is the 100-year commemora-

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NZ Freephone 0800 228 372


tion of World War I, and I feel like it is time for a change of pace. The permanent exhibits and current exhibitions are completely enthralling. Certainly a very memorable and engaging experience and an opportunity for some quiet contemplation. After an hour and a half at the Museum, it’s time to continue on my journey. I encounter the charming town of Ohakune which is a mecca for skiers over winter, and after a spectacular alpine walk in the afternoon shadow of Mt Ruapehu, I settle in for a very pleasant evening in the National Park Village.

DAY 6 To complete the Thermal Explorer Highway today, I am travelling to Hawke’s Bay. The route turns out to be a picturesque and pleasant drive with its changing vistas of mountains, lakes, farms and forest. I head towards the coast and Napier, the stunning Art Deco capital of New Zealand. Napier was rebuilt following the devastating earthquakes of 1931, and consequently hosts a stunning array of Art Deco architecture. Taking in the architectural highlights of this town on foot is a fascinating insight into the Art Deco era. The highlight is the fabulous Municipal Theatre with its lush interior. It is time for lunch, and I join a winery tour with Grape Escape to partake in some of the fresh food and wine that this region is so well known for. What a fabulous way to spend the afternoon with like-minded people enjoying good company and the very best food and wine. The drive through the stunning scenery is relaxing as we are introduced to four wineries. Life can’t get any better than enjoying a cheese platter beside the lily pond at the beautiful Ngatarawa Vineyard. It is with a warm heart that I relax and contemplate all I have seen and done as I travelled the Thermal Explorer Highway, and my only regret is that I did not have more time!

Napier architecture



In this edition join us and experience a taste of the very best of New Zealand’s luxury accommodation. Set against the stunning vista of the Southern Alps is the fabulously indulgent golf resort of Terrace Downs where you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to both pampering and exciting outdoor pursuits. Then, nestled in the foothills of the untamed Kaimanawa Mountains is the beautiful Poronui Luxury Lodge, the premium location for a glamorous adventure holiday. Let’s take a look...


Melt your stress away Are you looking for an escape from the everyday? Are you planning to enjoy the winter sports on the stunning Mt Hutt? Do you need a break of indulgence and pampering?

Look no further.

Terrace Downs Resort is a luxurious golf resort, thoughtfully positioned in the valley behind the Southern Alps in Canterbury. With views of Mt Hutt that are simply second to none and only a one hour drive from the Christchurch International Airport, this is the ultimate gateway to the South Island. The all-important accommodation leaves nothing wanting. The range of one to three bedroom villas are terraced to allow sweeping views from every balcony and are designed to be fully self contained with open plan living areas. Each villa has a master ensuite with a divine spa bath, just waiting to melt your stresses away. For those needing a little more stretching room the Chalets are on offer. These architecturally designed beauties are dotted around the edge of the golf course to allow for stunning views. With a range of four bedrooms up to seven, these Chalets are pure luxury and perfect for those traveling with family or in a larger group. Those looking to stay for a while can be sure of enjoying plenty of activities even while away from the city. No resort would be complete without a Spa of course, and no respectable New Zealand Spa would be complete without ranges of organic and zero impact skincare. The Spa offers a tranquil and peaceful sanctuary for you to escape the daily stresses of urban life and surrender to an experience designed to truly relax and rejuvenate mind, body and soul. Soak up the ambience and unwind with a combination of relaxing massage therapy with soothing aromatherapy oils and the finest skin products.


Guests who enjoy a more active holiday can take advantage of the array of activities on offer: horse-riding, clay shooting, archery, jet boating, scenic helicopter flights, trout and salmon fishing and heli-skiing. Imagine being picked up from the clubhouse by helicopter and dropped on the top of Mt Hutt, all ready to enjoy a day of skiing. If traveling by vehicle there is only a short twenty minute drive t o the Access Road of Mt Hutt. Staying in a luxurious resort may be a great excuse for taking time off from your routines, but being on vacation doesn’t have to mean letting your fitness suffer! Our newly-furnished gym means your workout has never had better views to admire, no matter the weather, while the tennis court at Terrace Downs must surely be one of the most scenic in New Zealand. Enjoy a match or just a casual hit around with friends. Pack your own racket and balls to play with friends and family, or travel light and hire equipment from the Reception. Mountain bikes are a fabulous way to enjoy the scenery too and make for some great photography opportunities. Capture the grandeur of Mt Hutt, the splendour of the Rakaia Gorge, and the serenity of Lake Coleridge while cycling around the foothills of the Southern Alps. For the golf lovers among us, the Course is sure to be a highlight of your trip. Terrace Downs Golf Course has been rated by the New Zealand Golf magazine as one of the top three courses in the country and it is obvious why. The 18 hole, par 72, championship course includes 11 lakes and 70 bunkers, all directly below the majestic Mt Hutt. The Clubhouse itself is a rustic work of beauty. The famed “Ladies Powder Room” downstairs of gold and French inspired design is a must

see and is often sought out for wedding photography. The Hunters Restaurant can provide either a buffet or a lovely menu in keeping with the high country surrounds. The Café with all it’s culinary and drink delights is superb whether popping in for a refreshment stop during a drive or grabbing the perfect cuppa whilst on your stay. You can choose to enjoy the scenery from the outer balcony or sit inside and stay toasty next with the warmth of the log fire. Of course, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention the wrap-around windows, thoughtfully provided to allow enjoyment of the golf course and Mt Hutt no matter what the weather. When travelling into the sweeping driveway of Terrace Downs Resort for the first time guests cannot help but catch their breath. After passing Chalets and seeing signs for the Spa one can expect something special coming over the ridge but nothing can prepare you for the view. There, sitting unexpectedly in the valley is the Clubhouse that is Terrace Downs Resort – the perfect oasis in the countryside.

www.terracedowns.co.nz 623 Coleridge Road, Windwhistle, Canterbury, NZ P +64 (0)3 318 6943 NZ Freecall: 0800 GOLF RESORT E: info@terracedowns.co.nz


adventure and pampering customised completely for you Poronui is the perfect scene for just about any outdoor adventure. Set in the foothills of the Kaimanawa mountains in the central plateau of the North Island, this unique 16,000 acre property provides visitors a taste of so much that is special about New Zealand. Even more impressive is the range of natural habitats available in one location, from indigenous beech forest to rolling manuka clad hills and miles of pristine fishing water. At Poronui there is nothing that you have to do, but plenty that you can do. Arrive, leave your car keys and cares behind and feel the magic of Poronui envelop you. The staff at Poronui will redefine your notion of travel. Indulge in a plan for adventure and pampering customised completely for you.

A Wide Range Of Outdoor Adventures On Site The property is a wonderful outdoor playground with more than 100 miles of roads and tracks that wind their way through the hills and along the streams. Rated in the world’s top ten fly fishing destinations by Forbes Magazine, you can fish for superb brown and rainbow trout in pristine waters, or take a helicopter to remote mountain pools, where large trout cautiously cruise. Ride the Poronui trails through virgin native beech, exotic forest and open grassland. Assisted by your personal guide, try your hand at fly fishing, deer stalking, mountain biking, eco tours, eeling, sporting clays, field archery, air rifle shooting‌or perhaps take a leisurely unguided hike on trails that meander along the banks of the Taharua River. If all this sounds too energetic, relax in the sauna or steam room, have a massage from our experienced massage therapist, or simply curl up in front of the fire with a good book. Poronui also offers a unique Maori cultural experience on neighbouring Tuwharetoa tribal land. The Kai Waho food and wilderness experience was voted number 35 on the Top 100 Travel Adventures around the world by Australia's Sydney Morning Herald.

Premium Accommodation To match the premier quality of the outdoor experience, Poronui offers three supremely comfortable accommodation options: the legendary Poronui Lodge, luxury riverside glamping at Safari Camp, or stately Blake House - the choice of celebrities, captains of industry and royalty. Designed by renowned New Zealand architect John Blair, Blake House is the ultimate wilderness retreat. Situated on an imperious plateau overlooking the Taharua River and


nestled peacefully away from the stresses of the outside world, this magnificent residence provides five-star accommodation in an utterly unique New Zealand location. The crystal clear mountain waters, indigenous beech forest, ferns and lush alpine meadows surrounding Blake House provide breathtaking scenery. With high country wilderness at your doorstep Blake House offers magnificent views while providing complete privacy and relaxation. Two expansive lounges with soaring ceilings and four huge open fireplaces are perfect for entertaining friends and family. And if it’s relaxation you are after, simply curl up with a good book on one of the huge couches in front of a blazing log fire. A self-catering option allows guests the opportunity to prepare and cook their own meals. This option can be for the duration of their stay, or guests may choose to use the services of our in-house gourmet chef at any time. Blake House is well equipped with a library, cigar room, satellite television and high speed internet services. For those who prefer to simply relax, make the most of our sauna and steam room or treat yourself to an invigorating massage. Despite a feeling of being away from it all, Blake House just 10 minutes away from the main Lodge at Poronui, and 40 minutes from the busy tourist township of Taupo.

water, flushing toilets and fine food and wine! Dine under the stars and toast marshmallows on the camp-fire embers. Fall asleep to the mesmerising sound of the famous Mohaka River, or stay up all night star-gazing. This is as close to roughing it as you can get at Poronui, with a few luxuries to smooth the way.

Food and Wine The table at Poronui is known for its pure uncluttered flavours. Dishes showcase delicacies of game food like venison, duck and other local fare. In the morning gather around the breakfast table to talk of adventures ahead. In the evening enjoy outstanding local game expertly prepared in our kitchen, and enjoy the genuine hospitality of Poronui staff - whom you’ll come to view as family and friends. And always, share stories and tall tales over dinner and wine drawn from our vast underground wine cellar – itself an atmospheric dining venue.

Whatever your outdoor passion, our guests talk of the magic of Poronui – the breathtaking location, genuine Kiwi warmth, and camaraderie they share with guides and fellow adventurers. Come and experience the legend of Poronui.

Poronui Lodge is the spiritual center of Poronui. It is warm and welcoming, with seven individual and luxuriously appointed guest cabins. From its balcony overlooking the river you can begin savouring the spectacle and the spirit of this special place. An exciting addition to the Poronui experience are the stylish timber and canvas tents of our safari-style camp. The camp is available on a fully-serviced basis for luxury overnight camp-outs and can be incorporated in any visit. It provides an incredible opportunity to enjoy splendid back country isolation whilst not forgoing creature comforts like crisp cotton sheets, hot running

BOOK YOUR STAY TODAY www.poronui.com

+64 7 384 2080


Fiordland

FIORDLAND

Sutherland Falls IMAGE: D.R. McCarlie

FLIGHT of a Lifetime by Gayle Hazelwood I recently had the pleasure of visiting New Zealand to catch up with a very dear friend who lives in the picturesque South Island. I knew my trip was going to be special as Anne is a keen adventurer and always knows the special places to go and sights to see.

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had been dreaming of and planning my trip to New Zealand for years and on arrival I was excited to see my old friend who immediately took on the role of a wonderful tour guide.

Lake Gunn at sunrise

Anne lives in Te Anau, which was the perfect place to launch my adventures from as there are numerous places to see and activities to do all a comfortable and gorgeously scenic car journey away. I spent the first day just relaxing and unwinding after my long-haul flight. Anne had a trip lined up for the following day to Milford Sound, and I was keen to be refreshed and ready to thoroughly enjoy the day. We set out very early the next day and were blessed with perfect weather for our drive which was to take us through Fiordland National Park with its stunning scenery. The highlights of the park for me were the pristine Mirror Lakes perfectly reflecting their surroundings. We stopped off and wandered around soaking up the lush scenery, crisp, fresh air and taking a tonne of photographs for posterity. The tranquil Lake Gunn with its majestic backdrop of mountains was the ideal spot to throw down a blanket and enjoy a thermos of hot coffee while Anne filled me in on the rest of the day’s itinerary. When she casually mentioned that later we were going to be sightseeing by helicopter, I was incredibly excited and could barely wait to set off again.

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 33


The approach to Milford is via the incredible Homer Tunnel – it was humbling to think that this significant structure was hewn by men with simple picks and shovels. It became abundantly clear that the tunnel was pretty much in its original state as we drove slowly through. I could see water running and dripping from the roughly textured rock walls... it was quite eerie, and I almost expected to exit out into a bygone era! Back out into the sunlight and our last stop before Milford was the Chasm (a short walk from the Milford Road) with dramatic views of powerful waterfalls and water-sculpted rocks. It was incredible to see and hear the powerful rush of the water and get an idea of how this force over millennia has carved out the boulders. Back in the car and onwards to Milford Helicopters – it was amazing to think of all we had seen before we even arrived at Milford Sound! I grew up in Montana, USA, so mountainous terrain is both familiar to me and dear to my heart. It has long been a dream of mine to go up in a helicopter and see mountains from a different perspective. Our friendly pilot Jeff discussed our options, and I decided upon the glacier trip as I wanted to see a glacier up close. I was a little nervous about flying, but Jeff patiently explained everything and went over safety procedures, etc. as we were preparing to go. My apprehensions all gave way to exhilaration as the helicopter gently and steadily

Perfectly situated alongside the 11th fairway of the Te Anau golf course

34 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

lifted off over Milford Sound. The view was absolutely breathtaking; the deep blue lakes and rugged mountains seemed so close that it felt like I could reach out and touch them. Everything was on a massive scale; we were surrounded by cliffs rising from a fiord well over 300m deep with many powerful waterfalls plunging as far as 500m into the water. It was extraordinarily beautiful. Jeff expertly set us down on the glacier below Mt Tutoko (the highest peak in the Fiordland National Park), and we had time to take some amazing and unique photographs of the translucent icy blue formation. The weather was ideal, and we could see for miles and miles out across the mountain ranges and across the land that was carved out by slow but ever moving glacial shifts. TO PAGE 37


FISH • DIVE • HUNT FISH, DIVE, OR HUNT, WHILE ABOARD THE LUXURIOUS FIORDLAND JEWEL

Individually tailored charters in spectacular Fiordland Fully catered with all equipment supplied Milford overnight cruises Jan - April Explore this unique corner of New Zealand in comfort and style, guided by expert crew with years of local knowledge.

FIORDLAND DISCOVERY Contant Rob Swale +64 27 4690190 www.fiordlanddiscovery.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 35


GET THE REAL TASTE OF FIORDLAND!

Milford Helicopters IMAGE: D.R. McCarlie

A spectacular Milford Sound vista

Showcasing innovative N.Z cuisine and local wines in a relaxed atmosphere with friendly service. Using the freshest local produce with meals such as (Fare Game) Fiordland venison, Hare Back Strap & Manuka Smoked Salmon has our restaurant voted Te Anau’s #1 Dining Experience by Trip Adviser & The Lonely Planet. Recipients of N.Z Beef & Lamb Hallmark of excellence 2005 - 2015

12 Mokonui st , Te Anau redcliff_cafe@xtra.co.nz www.theredcliff.co.nz

(03) 2497431 7 Days - 4pm Till Late


OUR HORSES ARE QUIET AND FRIENDLY

We set off on our return flight taking us over the mountain ranges and valleys. I truly feel I saw the best parts of Fiordland. I felt like I was in safe hands at all times which meant I was able to relax and enjoy the thrilling and fun ride as we hugged the wild coastline skimming along mountain ridges. The flight back was exhilarating and the views breathtaking.

Times 9am

and 1pm

We have Horses to suit all levels of rider confidence. We can cater for 1 - 10 people with all safety gear provided. Drink, snack and photo stop included

Back on terra firma I had time to reflect on the events of the day and concluded I had been on a once in a lifetime flight. The photos I took from the vantage point of the glacier will be ones I will treasure forever as they captured a unique moment in my life in one of the most special places in the world.

Join us on a �rilling Adventure We can cater for 2-10 people with wet weather and safety gear provided. Photo stops included.

TIMES 10AM AND 2PM

PH 03 249 9079 CELL PH 027 201 2014 www.gotravelnewzealand.com 37 WWW.FIORDLANDHORSETREKS.COM


Queenstown

QUEENSTOWN

A TASTE OF southern hospitality by Sara Litchfield Coming to land amidst New Zealand’s stunning Southern Alps is an experience in itself, majestic mountains hailing you as you come to rest in what is often described as the jewel in the country’s crown. I’m filled with excitement and wonder, having heard from a great many travellers that what I’ll find on the ground is just as breathtaking as the view from the air. I’ve arrived in Queenstown.

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Wednesday morning wander through this beautiful town brings me to one end of its centre and a pub called Red Rock for their famous $10 breakfast. Wooden beams, slate floors, and a friendly smile behind the bar are the first things to greet me. A table by the woodburner is warm and welcoming, and there is plenty to look at, a large screen in the corner playing the sport, US licence plates adorning the walls, and a jersey on display from the local ice hockey team the bar is sponsoring – the Ice Maidens, Queenstown’s first women’s team. A pool table sits over in a side section, windows framing the picnic tables overlooking the street beside firepits ready to keep revelers warm when they come down from the mountains. I’m told there’s live music

and a cosy, upstairs bar called the Whiskey Room – I’ve already decided to come back and check out the evening vibe. A lovely chai latte later and breakfast is on the table – surely the best in town for value, and delicious to boot. Happily full, I could sit there all day listening to the tunes, but the scenery is calling and I’m off to look around. Queenstown is a myriad of interesting, interconnecting streets and side alleys. I make my way towards the lake via the pedestrianised Mall, parallel to the main street.

Untouched World, next to palatial hotel Eichardt’s, calls to me and I treat myself to a scarf – some winter warmth for my coming walk. A pretty path along the lakeside takes me beside the beach and into Queenstown Gardens. As well as the unfolding views, I get to watch the frisbee golf in play and marvel at a hole-in-one. Is there any activity Queenstown doesn’t have? I could follow the winding path along the lakeside all the way to Frankton, but I loop around and choose to come back into town. There are more than enough shops and sights to keep me occupied all day. The afternoon sees me climbing Queenstown Hill to enjoy its walking track and stunning views across the town, the Remarkables towering over Lake Wakatipu in the distance.

COME AND ENJOY THE RELAXED AND WARM ATMOSPHERE AT ONE OF QUEENSTOWNS OLDEST PUBS.

As evening falls, the indoors calls and I make my way to the Whiskey Room above Red Rock. It’s the perfect place to while away the hours, a roaring fire warming the small tables and leather sofa, flanked by cosy armchairs. A cabinet gives testimony to the range of whiskeys on offer, and I curl up with a cocktail to enjoy the intimate space with its après-ski charm. Queenstown’s nightlife embraces an eclectic array of options, but I’ve already heard of one not to miss. I head over to Cowboy’s on Searle Lane to sample this Old West themed bar, complete with horse saddle bar stools

Closest location when hopping on/off the bus from the mountain. Locally owned and operated Lively times at Red Rock

48 camp St, queenstown www.gotravelnewzealand.com 39


N NZ STOW QUEEN

WARM AND INVITING, WITH GREAT MUSIC AND DRINKS AT PRICES YOU CAN AFFORD!

FREE: PIZZA: WED, 8PM - 12AM SPICY WINGS: SUN, 8PM – 12AM BAR SNACKS EVERYDAY, 3PM - 8PM

KARAOKE: SUN, 9PM - LATE POOL TABLE & SHUFFLE BOARD

and mechanical bull. I pass an enticing nook with its own fireplace opening onto a smokers’ den before an enormous bear greets me at the entrance to the main room. Along with a crowd of cheerful people tapping feet to the popular music, I order a signature stein and soak up the surroundings. I’m lucky enough to enjoy a seat by the fire, a perfect people-watching spot opposite the bar, flanked by enthusiastic shuffleboard and pool players taking advantage of the free tables under an impressive collection of paraphernalia. From the pistol bar taps to the antler chandeliers, Cowboy’s offers a unique, playful ambience in which to enjoy the drinks and free bar snacks they offer every day between 3 and 8pm, with pizza handed out all night on Wednesdays. It’s easy to get into the spirit of things here; I can tell the karaoke they hold on Sundays would make a great night out, with cash prizes and free chicken wings to go with the entertainment. But for now, I finish my delicious pizza and round off with an exhilarating if short-lived ride on the bull before going back out onto the chilly streets. Always a lover of traditional Irish pubs, I head back towards the lake to try the Guinness at Pog Mahone’s. I’m far from disappointed. A barman from the Emerald Isle pours a pint perfectly and it goes down

Cowboys Bar & Restaurant

You aint been to Queenstown if you haven't ridden the Cowboys' MECHANICAL BULL!

03 4092978 7 Searle Lane, Opp Joes Garage cowboyqueenstown@gmail.com 40 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

a treat. Pog’s has the pleasant pub atmosphere I’ve come to expect from the Paddys, flags adorning the ceiling like in so many establishments, but with a charm all its own. Talented local band Calico is playing on the raised platform in one corner of the room to the delight of drinkers and diners alike, the sight and aroma of sizzling stonegrills making my mouth water. Outside tables overlook the lake and jetty, while upstairs seating offers more restaurant-like surroundings in which to enjoy the extensive menu. I hear a rumour the Sunday roast is worth returning for – my weekend seems to be mapping itself out for me already!


marina

Located on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, surrounded by the spectacular Remarkables Mountain Range, Mantra Marina offers a beautiful and unique location on New Zealand’s South Island. Only four minutes drive from the centre of Queenstown and just moments from ski slopes, golfing, hiking trails, wineries and high adrenalin sports, Mantra Marina boasts a variety of five star self-contained apartments and standard hotel rooms.

Location features 5 km to Queenstown town central 800 metres to golf course 800 metres to Queenstown Events Centre 30 metres to Kawarau Jet Boat base & pick up 700 metres to 2 character pubs, cafes & takeaways 8 km to excellent wineries

Mantra Marina

(03)450-9096 marina.res@mantragroup.co.nz 875 Frankton Road, Queenstown, www.gotravelnewzealand.com New Zealand 9300

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Pog Mahones, Queenstown

Queenstown Winter Fesitival

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Pog Mahone's IRISH PUB / queenstown

At Pogs you can enjoy a lively mix of modern and Celtic music, friendly service and be warmed by our open fires or soak up some of New Zealand’s most stunning alpine scenery from our sunny lakeside beer garden & balcony.

Sitting at the bar, I listen to the lively music and strike up conversation with the chatty bar staff. One of the best things about Queenstown is the great mix of people you’ll meet from all over the world, whether visiting or having come here to make it their home. They certainly seem to like their Guinness, an awe-inspiring display of plaques bearing witness to the 100, 500 and even 1000 pint clubs, proving this particular pub is loved by locals as well as holiday-makers.

live music and sport every weekend

I retire content in the knowledge that I’ve sampled some of Queenstown’s highlights already. I can hardly wait for tomorrow. GTNZ

Pog Mahones famous Stonegrill

1 4 www.pogmahones.co.nz R E E S S T R E E T , QU EENS TO WN www.gotravelnewzealand.com 43


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HYBRIDGE ™ LITE HOODY Leverages our expertise in down insulation while ensuring outstanding flexibility. It is perfect for active wear, layering and fast packing, available in women’s and men’s styles.

Discover Queenstown’s best kept secret - Untouched World™, the home of ethical luxury fashion - the first fashion company in the world to be recognised by the United Nations for sustainability. You can discover the timeless luxury of Untouched World in the historic Eichardt’s Hotel Building in The Mall, Queenstown. Untouched World™ is open in the evenings as well as in the day, so there is every excuse to pop in after a day’s adventures! Untouched World™ is New Zealand’s leading lifestyle brand. Ideal for travelling, the collection includes Mountainsilk™ (machine wash merino), Ecopossum™ knitwear (fine merino and luxurious possum fibre) and Kapua™ (cashmere and possum fibre.) Every time you purchase an Untouched World™ product, you are making a contribution to the work of the Untouched World™ Charitable Trust, which is funded from company profits. Both Winter and Summer Collections are available year round, perfect if you are travelling, or looking for gifts to send home.

KENSINGTON PARKA Long and slim fitting, the Kensington is equally appropriate for strolling city streets or hiking a snowy trail. Top selling women’s style in NZ.

BANFF PARKA High performance men’s parka perfect for outdoor adventures.

CHILLIWACK BOMBER Providing durability, warmth and mobility, the Chilliwack Bomber is one of Canada’s most popular jackets, comes in women’s and men’s styles.

Available at Untouched World Queenstown

Store Directory

Eichardt’s Building, No. 1 The Mall. QUEENSTOWN info@utwqueenstown.com 03 442 4992 Open daily from 9am www.utwqueenstown.com

44 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

Canada Goose Available Online at: http://www.thewoolpress.com/shop/canada-goose/


The view over Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown

Platinum Queenstown offers luxury villa accommodation with: • 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, full kitchen, laundry, spacious lounge/dining areas and lock-up garage • private courtyard • stunning views of either lake or surrounding alpine vista • 2 minutes drive from centre of Queenstown • ideal for families, business travellers, couples or groups Relax in pure luxury and experience the best of our alpine and lake wonderland.

Phone: +64 3 746 7700 or visit our website: platinumqueenstown.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com 45


Arrowtown

ARROWTOWN

GIBBSTON VALLEY WINERY Nothing short of spectacular by Caroline Fontein It’s not every day when you get to bike through stunning scenery, taste award-winning wines and eat incredible food. But that was exactly what my friend and I did one Saturday in April at Gibbston Valley Winery, as part of our grand tour of the South Island.

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here are several wineries in the area, but after learning that Gibbston Valley offered a biking facility along with wine tasting, a restaurant and wine cave tours, we made that our destination of choice. I’ve done plenty of wine tasting tours before where you board a bus in the morning and spend the day getting escorted to different wineries for tastings and lunch. Those are a lot of fun, but with the option to add biking into the experience, I thought it would be nice to do something a little different while in the Queenstown area. The winery is about a 25-minute drive from town. We contemplated renting a car for the day and driving there. Then someone at our hotel mentioned the winery has a shuttle service. The thought of being able to relax during the ride, instead of having to worry about figuring out directions and driving on the other side of the road (I’m from the U.S.) was all I needed to abandon that idea. With the transportation schedule easily found on the winery’s website, the next morning we made our way to the pick-up location in town to board the 10am shuttle to Gibbston. The drive alone was stunning. After leaving town, the road winds through beautiful farmlands, along Lake Hayes and past the turn off to the historic township of Arrowtown, and then beyond the iconic Kawarau Bungy Bridge into wine country. I’m sure it’s beautiful any time of year, but visiting in fall was absolutely breathtaking. Bright orange, deep crimson and gold dotted the

landscape, creating a picture - perfect view in every direction. It’s the kind of scenery that makes everyone want to be a photographer. Once we arrived at Gibbston Valley, we made our way to the bike centre. The winery is located next to a bike park called Rabbit Ridge that offers diverse terrain for anyone seeking some downhill thrills, but that wasn’t us. Instead, we decided on the bike, wine and dining experience package for two people. At $195, I thought the price sounded reasonable for bike hire, a wine cave tour and tasting, Harvest Platter for two in the winery restaurant and return transport. The staff at the bike centre were really helpful with fitting us both for a bike and helmet and giving us directions. We decided to take the Gibbston River Trail which takes you along the Kawarau River and to nearby wineries. We hopped on our bikes and off we went. From the winery you ride along their Home Block vineyard and cross the street to access the Gibbston River Trail. Flanked by a gorge on one side and green pastures on the other, the views are incredible. I almost fell off my bike a few times while admiring the bright turquoise water of the Kawarau River below. The gravel path was easy to ride. There are some changes in gradient, but nothing switching gears on the bike can’t handle. We were so taken by the scenery that we decided not to stop at any of the other nearby wineries and instead soak up as much of the Alpine mountain air and

Visit Central Otago’s oldest Pinot Noir vines and New Zealand’s largest wine cave for a winery experience that will warm your soul. 03 442 6910 Open Daily 10am-5pm 1820 State Highway 6

gibbstonvalley.com www.gotravelnewzealand.com 47


Central Otago landscape as we could. The bike rental was for two hours, and we used almost all of that time.

Home of the famous Arrowtown Gourmet Pies Offering quality homemade fresh breads, sandwiches, cakes and slices Fantastic Coffee and great value menu and cabinet food available takeaway or eat in.

Phone: 03 442 1587 Email: awbakery@xtra.co.nz Open 7 Days

48 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

Once back at Gibbston Valley, we were ready for some wine. We dropped off our bikes and made our way to the meeting point for the 1 p.m. wine cave tour. There were about 10 of us on the tour, and our friendly guide led us to the Home Block vineyard (this time we were on the other side of where the bike trail takes you) and gave us a brief history of Gibbston Valley as the region’s founding winery. She explained that fruit from Home Block produced the region’s first commercial vintage, Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir released in 1987. Then we made our way into the wine cave, the largest in New Zealand. Before entering you can already smell the more than 300 barrels of aging wine lining the walls of the cave. I found it fascinating to learn that while the cave is a popular tourist attraction, it’s also a working part of the winery. Within the year, the contents of many of those barrels will be bottled and served at restaurants, family dinners and occasions with friends. I found it thrilling to be able to experience that part of the winemaking process. After making our way down the cave’s long hallway, everyone gathered around a table for wine tasting. Our guide led us through a tasting of new releases both white varietals and their trademark Pinot Noir. After the tasting, we headed to the Cellar Door and restaurant for our Harvest Platter. The cave tour experience was about 30 minutes which was just long enough for me to realise how hungry I was after the almost two hours of biking.

With the sun shining, we took a seat in the restaurant’s outdoor courtyard area and each ordered a glass of Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir. The Harvest Platter was a wine lover’s fantasy. It included an assortment of cheese (the aged gouda and French goats cheeses were my favourite), charcuterie, housemade hummus, hot-smoked Aoraki salmon, a feta and rosemary frittata, olives, chutney and bread. Every bite was a delicious pairing with wine. In fact, every aspect of the day seemed to be a perfect complement to the other. From soaking up the stunning scenery on the ride there, to biking, learning about Gibbston Valley’s pioneering history, tasting their incredible wines and reflecting on it all with a lunch and more Pinot Noir in the winery restaurant, I would say the Gibbston Valley experience is nothing short of spectacular. Of course the delicious wines always help. After one more glass, we decided it was time to leave Pinot paradise for the day. I’ll definitely be back on my next trip to Queenstown. GTNZ


Fashion in ARROWTOWN You’ll be enchanted by Historic Arrowtown, a New Zealand treasure. Arrowtown is charming and quirky – a delightful gold rush village nestled below the beautiful peaks that surround the sparkling Arrow River. The historic town of Arrowtown is only twenty minutes drive from Queenstown. Come and update your wardrobe from top stores such as Wallace & Gibbs, Te Huia and IKON.

Accessories @ IKON So far, the faces of Lady Gaga, Gwen Stefani, Beyonce, & Francis Cobain have all been spotted wearing Quay sunglasses and the list continues to grow daily. The hardest step is

New Zealand made jewellery by Silk & Steel are a must have accessory this Winter. These popular stretch bracelets look great worn alone or stacked with other bracelets and cuffs. You know you have got style on lock down with the crisp Vans® All Over it hat! Classic snapback design with custom allover print or printed bill for added style.

Men’s Fashion

Winter 15’ Winter is a particularly treacherous time of year for letting your style take a nasty slip and fall. But not any more!! Wallace & Gibbs have an extensive collection of Men’s Fashion wear. From can make sure that you are looking good for all your Winter events. IKON’s top NZ brands such as Huffer will make you stand out this Winter.

Bags, Bags, Bags Wallace & Gibbs have a wide range of handbags from top brands such as Hermes and Idex. Turn heads this Winter with amazing designer bags from Wallace & Gibbs.

ILEX BAG $399.90

Megan ILEX BAG $479.90

Milano Hermes BAG $319.90

Shoulder bag ILEX BAG $479.90

100% New Zealand Made 38 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown Ph: (03) 442 1355 E: info@tehuianz.com www.gotravelnewzealand.com 49


Wanaka

WANAKA

IMAGE: Cardrona.com

CARDRONA the humble ski field with the Olympic reputation by Rowan Archer If you visited Cardrona fifteen years ago, you would have laughed if I told you it produces the majority of New Zealand’s Winter Olympians. Back then, the odd local referred to it as ‘flat white’, as it was known as the ideal place to take the kids skiing or to take your first steps on snow. 50 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


While Cardrona holds strong to the values it was raised upon, it has evolved over the years into a resort that attracts a unique melting pot of snow enthusiasts. From its ‘bread and butter’ beginners and families to some of the world’s best elite snow sport athletes, Cardrona attracts skiers and snowboarders from each end of the ‘ability scale’ and the many in-between.

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aving not visited Cardrona in a number of years, a small crew of us ‘late 20's ex-ski bums' decided to stay in the picturesque and peaceful ski town of Wanaka for our weekend trip. I've done most of my skiing out of Queenstown including the last time I visited Cardrona (it's an easy one hour drive from the adventure capital) but most Kiwis who visit the ski area seem to stay in Wanaka which is a mere 35 minute drive away…and it's not hard to see why.

Cardrona Alpine Resort

With its spectacular lake and mountain views, relaxed atmosphere and amazing cafes/restaurants, our group collectively agreed that we had chosen the right spot. While Wanaka usually plays ‘little brother' to the internationally recognized Queenstown, it has had its own supreme accolades including being named in the National Geographic's ‘Top 25 Ski Towns in The World'. Such accolades have surprisingly been kept lowkey as the locals don't like to brag! After a relaxing night consisting of a few wines by the lake as we watched the sun go down, we awoke to one of the crew handing around warm coffees; a passive-aggressive way to say ‘get out of bed and get your skis in the car'. Being ex-ski bums we all prefer to use our own kit however there is an abundance of ski stores in Wanaka offering rental gear or you can hire everything you need up the mountain. The car ride up starts with a mellow cruise through the Cardrona Valley.

CARDRONA. FUN GUARANTEED. PRISTINE groomed slopes, parks ‘n pipes & challenging chutes WHATEVER YOUR LEVEL we’ve got the snow for you EASY drive or bus ride from Queenstown or Wanaka Cnr Shotover/ Rees Sts, Queenstown / 18 Dunmore St, Wanaka p: 0800 440 800 e: info@cardrona.com AUS Freephone: 1800 754 386 (SKI FUN) WWW.CARDRONA.COM

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 51


We were welcomed by two smiling mascots at the bottom of the Cardrona access road. I couldn't pass such a friendly welcome without smiling and waving back... I wasn't sure if our coffee was too strong or if everyone was just fizzing to get on snow, but our legs couldn't stop twitching. After a quick climb up the access road, timed perfectly to watch the sun come up, we reached the colourful base area. On the walk from the carpark to the base area, the melting pot of Cardrona was quickly revealed. Mothers piling more layers onto their kids, fathers unclipping roof racks, groups of mid 20 – late 30-year-old snowboarders laughing with excitement, young ‘grommies' (under 15 year olds) whipping snowballs at each other and sponsored athletes stretching as they discussed the day's objectives…it was all happening. As the diverse array of guests made their way to the base area, it became clear that the resort has a knack of attracting all shapes, sizes, ages, and abilities. After purchasing our lift passes, we put on our boots and enjoyed another coffee while taking in the stunning morning views from the Mezz Café. TO PAGE 54

Taylor Seaton at Cardrona IMAGE: Tommy Pyatt

52 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


Chairlift in operation IMAGE: Tommy Pyatt

PUZZLING WORLD Wanaka’s iconic attraction is the perfect après ski or rest-day activity this winter, here’s why… For over forty years Puzzling World has been astounding people of all ages with its three-dimensional Great Maze, five incredible Illusion Rooms and other architectural treats. Added to this, with a great winter menu including cheese toasties, croissants and soup to add to their pie, sandwich and muffin favorites you can relax in the warmth of the Puzzle Centre trying your hand at one of the many puzzles on offer while savoring a coffee and a bite to eat.

th i w g n i s s e M your head since 1973

The incredible range of puzzles, books and games in the gift shop mean all ages, abilities and temperament are covered and on those long winter nights what could be better than to curl up with an entertaining book or puzzle? The opening hours of 8.30am to 5.30pm mean hard-core skiers who don’t believe in ‘rest days’ can still visit Puzzling World before or after their day on the slopes and experience what has been consistently ranked in the region’s top attractions.

Wanaka’s o t e m o lc e W orld wonderful w s. of weirdnes s of illusion

dings, room e your Bizarre buil aze will baffl m s u o m fa tions and our your percep e g n e ll a ch brain and elieving! eing is disb Se . ty li a re of

When planning your holiday to the Southern Lakes this winter, make sure you not only visit some of the world class ski resorts on offer but also allow for a stopover at Wanaka’s wonderful world of weirdness!

www.puzzlingworld.co.nz

WORLD naka 9382 PUZZLING wy 84, Wa H te a g g ka Lu orld.co.nz 188 Wana puzzlingw @ fo in E: 9 748 P: 03 443

rld.co.nz

Puzzle Centre assistance

zlingwo www.puz ded on

Recommen

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 53


Cardrona Ski Field IMAGE: Tommy Pyatt

Knowing we may split up while skiing we made a plan to meet for lunch. Choosing between an Asian Noodle Bar, Pizzeria, burgers and wraps or modern cafe dining proved tricky but we finally agreed on pizza as a quick recharge to get us back on the slopes swiftly. After a few runs down the large main basin (one of three at Cardrona) I quickly realised how much the resort had evolved since my last visit. Cardrona now has seven lifts (including two quad express chairlifts) which is definitely on the generous side compared to most of the ski areas in the South Island. After exploring the expansive Captain's Basin, we stopped for lunch at Captain's Café for pizza as planned. Our quick stop soon became a lengthy affair since the café deck provided some perfect photo opportunities looking across the Cardrona Valley. Back in the main basin, the ride up the McDougall's chairlift painted a picture which emphasized the ski area's fascinating con54 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

trasts. On one side instructors helped first timers to make their way down the wide beginner slopes while a couple of hundred metres above them freestyle athletes were hucking and flipping their bodies high out of the Olympic sized halfpipe. Switching our view across to the other side of the chairlift TO PAGE 57


Treble Cone (Wanaka NZ) is the South Island’s largest ski area, offering the longest vertical in the Queenstown and Wanaka region - a mighty 700 leg-burning metres. Treble Cone won ‘New Zealand’s Best Ski Resort’ at the World Ski Awards in 2013 and again in 2014. Treble Cone is the closest ski area to the picturesque alpine township of Wanaka, and only 90 minutes drive from the booming tourism mecca of Queenstown, with daily buses from both resort towns. New for 2015, is an on-mountain open-air cafe at the top of the Home Basin. 1760m above sea level the new cafe is nestled in the heart of the ski area action with spectacular views across Lake Wanaka and the snow-capped Southern Alps. The existing Treble Cone Base Cafe has had a makeover, offering a fresh new dining experience. Developed with earthworks and snow fencing over the summer, winter 2015 sees Treble Cone opening two new groomed intermediate trails in the Saddle Basin. Additionally, Raffills Run, Treble Cone's flagship intermediate trail has a new wider, easier entrance created to ensure all visitors to the Saddle Basin have access to cruising this iconic trail and enjoying the sweeping views.

New Zealand's

New Best Zealand's Ski Resort Best Ski Resort

New Zealand's

New Best Zealand's Ski Resort Best Ski Resort

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 55


IMAGE: PurePixel at Cardrona

IMAGE: Cardrona.com

56 Go Travel NZ 路 Winter 2015


we watched as intermediate skiers linked turns down pristinely groomed slopes while more high flying tricksters launched themselves off jumps in the various other terrain parks. The melting pot had come alive and was demonstrating its diversity in true form as we enjoyed our last runs of the day.

visiting the resort is a must. We ended our ski weekend with very fond memories of Cardrona, and we're already planning the next trip! GTNZ

While Cardrona has stayed true to its roots as NZ's ‘family friendly' ski area, it can now add an Olympic element to its reputation. Ten of the fifteen New Zealand Winter Olympic athletes who competed in the Sochi Games regularly trained at Cardrona, but it's not just the local athletes using these world-class facilities. Cardrona, all the way down in little old New Zealand, graced the pages of the New York Times leading up to the last Olympics as the American freestyle team used the resort for valuable training and competition time. Twenty-one of the freestyle athletes who trained at Cardrona in 2013 went on to win medals at the Winter Olympics, which meant that ‘normal' skiers (like me) had a chance to share a chair with some of the world's best. Cardrona has come a long way since its days as the ‘flat white'. While still down-to-earth and friendly, it has an Olympic association which adds to the long list of reasons why

Lime Tree Lodge - Wanaka NZ - Boutique Accommodation Wanaka is home to some of New Zealand’s best skiing and snowboarding. Enthusiasts from around the world travel to the three Wanaka ski-fields of Cardrona, Treble Cone and the Snow Farm, all within an hour’s drive of Lime Tree Lodge. • Fully hosted also available for exclusive use • Evening canapés and drinks • Outdoor Jacuzzi • Drying room • On site heli pad for heli-sightseeing tours or heli-skiing

Botique & Lodge

Lime Tree Lodge offers a range of winter packages! www.gotravelnewzealand.com 57


Mackenzie

MACKENZIE

Hiking the ridge to make first tracks in the powder at Ohau Snow fields IMAGE: Justine Tyerman

MIRAGES are not just seen in the desert by Justine Tyerman A squat little A-Frame hut shimmered in the distance… “You look as though you have seen a mirage,” a fellow skier said to me, as I squinted across the dazzling white expanse at the shape in the distance.

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ut as I skied closer, I discovered people lounging on deck chairs in the snow. They were drinking mulled wine, schnapps and beer, outside a tiny bar on skids overlooking Lake Tekapo on a fresh-snow day so clear and sharp and bright it made my eyes water even with my goggles on. I skied to the window and impulsively ordered a schnapps, re-enacting a romantic memory of a ski holiday in Austria in my younger days when our instructor-guide insisted we partake of the local fire-water in a quaint little mountain bar to warm up before braving the sub-zero temperatures outside. Rationalising it was well nigh impossible to come to grief on Roundhill's incredibly gentle slopes, I attempted to skol my schnapps - so much for the memory. It was ghastly, and I instantly handed it over to the nearest young male snowboarder who gave me a quizzical look but didn't waste any time downing the stuff in case I changed my mind. In hindsight, I suspect the schnapps we were drinking back then was seriously diluted with fruit juice because I seem to recall a pleasant peachy flavour - not cleaning fluid. And no one skied into trees or was worse for wear after a schnapps session long ago in the Tyrol. We had run away from Wanaka's crowded slopes to ski the smaller fields in the MacKenzie High Country, and were richly rewarded with fresh powder, cloudless skies and no queues. Roundhill Ski Field is just as the name suggests - a mound with no cliffs, drop-offs or craggy peaks, and little chance of getting up too much speed.

The main slopes are no challenge to anyone beyond the snow-plough stage but it is the most picturesque of ski fields, looking towards the beautiful Godley Valley to the right, Tekapo township 32 kilometres to the left and straight ahead, beyond the turquoise-blue lake, to Aoraki Mt Cook. The field also boasts the longest, steepest rope tow in the world and Australasia's biggest vertical drop (783 metres). The last time I used a nutcracker was in the pre-chairlift days at Coronet TO PAGE 62

Australasia’s largest vertical Un-crowded, friendly & personal Reliable snow falls All day sun A great mix of terrain Easy access road and slopeside parking Superb views

www.roundhill.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 59


Riders on the Chairlift IMAGE: Ohau Snow Holdings

SNOW, natural and made! High Country fare, dinner bed and breakfast, special lift rates for guests Bookings: Lake Ohau Lodge reservations@ohau.co.nz (03) 4389 885 |www.ohau.co.nz


STARGAZING TOURS OBSERVATORY TOURS ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY TOURS

Home to the Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve

Let our knowlegeable astronomy guides navigate you around the wonders of our southern sky.

BOOK A TOUR WITH US TODAY:

www.earthandsky.co.nz

Southern Cross and Milky Way taken from Mt.John University Observatory IMAGE: ŠMaki Yanagimachi / Earth&Sky Ltd

email: info@earthandsky.co.nz Ph: +64 3 6806 960 LAKE TEKAPO NEWwww.gotravelnewzealand.com ZEALAND 61


The 'mirage' at Roundhill Ski Field IMAGE: Chris Tyerman

Peak when it was a sign of great prestige to own a rope tow belt - it's still in the attic somewhere - but I decided to give it a miss in favour of drinking in the view and a glühwein at the "mirage" while my husband tackled the tow. We skied all afternoon until the shadows were long and loath to leave the mountains; we spent the night 123 kilometres down the road at Lake Ohau Lodge. When we arrived, rosy-cheeked after a day in the alpine sun, we were beckoned by another mirage - the winemaker from Terra Sancta at Bannockburn was pouring generous free tastings of Mysterious Diggings Pinot Noir and other delights to a bunch of animated après-skiers

62 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

who were sprawled about the lounge in beanbags. We eagerly joined the merriment and gazed out the huge picture windows as the sunset painted the snowy Ben Ohau Range pink and gold. Just when we thought things couldn’t get much better, a delicious three-course dinner was served beside an open fire, roaring away in the huge old stone fireplace dating back to when Sir Harry Wigley established the lodge in 1951. Early next morning, with the landscape sparkling under a thick layer of frost, we soaked in a hot spa pool on the lodge deck overlooking Lake Ohau as the sun rose.

After a hearty skiers' breakfast, we drove 20 minutes up the road to Ohau Snow Fields, high above the lake. TO PAGE 64


Go cross-country skiing...

Snowshoeing in the Two Thumb Range Last winter my friend and I decided snowshoeing would be a new adventure worth trying. It would keep us “young” and get us up into the snow-covered mountains, away from crowds. As we hiked three hours up to a private hut above Lake Tekapo we were completely surrounded by snow-covered mountains, and the silence was beautiful! A supply of sleeping bags at this very cosy hut had meant lighter packs for us coming up, and the potbelly stove quickly warmed us. As we downed copious cups of tea and nibbled cookies and chocolate, we watched the late afternoon sun provide an ever-changing light show over snowy peaks. The dawn was crisp and clear the next day, and we were soon looking up Camp Stream Valley, with ‘Snake Ridge’ leading on up to Beuzenberg Peak. As we ascended, Mt Cook, Mt Tasman, Elie de Beaumont and

Malte Brun came clearly into view and some spectacular clouds had me pulling out my camera every 5 minutes! The 2070m summit of Beuzenberg Peak felt like a real achievement – it’s the highest point on the Te Araroa Trail.

small groups ~ cosy private hut

all equipment provided

It was lightly snowing when we headed out next morning. Being well-clad we remained warm and dry, but marvelled how the thickening snow could confuse our senses, and changed the spectacular scenery from the day before to a surreal white world. At times on this trip we were just three tiny figures in a vast, spectacular, pristine wilderness. I had a sense of never being more ‘alive’.

Abridged from an original article by Lois Mcartney.

Lake Tekapo ~ Two Thumb Range

0800 006 096

www.alpinerecreation.com

En route to Beuzenberg Peak via Snake Ridge IMAGE: G Braun-Elwert

... or snowshoeing!

A lpine Recreation www.gotravelnewzealand.com 63 • •

T R E K

C L I M B

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Ohau Day Lodge

FACT FILE

“EARLY NEXT MORNING, WITH THE LANDSCAPE SPARKLING UNDER A THICK LAYER OF FROST, WE SOAKED IN A HOT SPA POOL ON THE LODGE DECK OVERLOOKING LAKE OHAU AS THE SUN ROSE"

We were two of only seven skiers on the mountain before the rush of 30 or so hit the slopes, and what Ohau lacked in breadth of skiable terrain, it made up for in snow quality and the sheer number of runs we had on uncluttered slopes. A few keen souls were hiking the ridge above the double chairlift to make first tracks in the powder, and a pair of hardy ski trekkers were heading off to an alpine hut in the next valley. Skiing Ohau, like Roundhill, is as much about the scenic experience as the skiing itself. To stand at the top of an empty slope with pristine untouched snow, and no need to plot a course to avoid maniac snowboarders, kamikaze skiers and unpredictable learners was a rare treat. And the view of Lake Ohau and surrounding mountains is mesmerising, all the more so because of the peace and solitude. GTNZ

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Deck chairs at the Von Brown IMAGE: Roundhill Ski

the

grand traverse

experience the flight of a lifetime

Ranked #1 Lake Tekapo Attraction by Trip Advisor * * www.tripadvisor.co.nz September 2014

Flying from Lake Tekapo since 1970 www.gotravelnewzealand.com 65


West Coast

WEST COAST

Jacksons Bay near Haast

A WILD WEST encounter by Chris Birt The two coasts of the South Island are as different as chalk and cheese. On the eastern side, the usually - but not always - benign Pacific Ocean gently laps against the coastline, bringing with it warm waters and light winds. But just two hundred kilometres away, as the kea flies, is a whole new world.

66 Go Travel NZ 路 Winter 2015


“ANY TIME OF THE YEAR IS A GOOD TIME to be visiting these parts, but this trip will go down as one of the best yet. The throng of travellers always seen in the peak summer months is thinning, the gentle mantle of white is beginning to settle on the ground in the mornings and stunningly warm days are being enjoyed.

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he West Coast of the Southern Alps; a thin strip of green and blue sandwiched between mountain peaks and a raging ocean that mostly brings big swells crashing onto its beaches from a distant land until recently known as the Lucky Country. Having done the trip from the ferry at Picton, down the eastern seaboard to Christchurch and then through the Mackenzie Country to Queenstown many times, I’m now seeking new adventures. This time I’ve opted for the cheese, not the chalk!

There are any number of routes to the West Coast. From Nelson and Tasman Bay at the top of the South access is provided via State Highway 6 on the banks of the stunningly wild and wonderful Buller Gorge. For the movie buff, another alternative worthy of consideration is the scenic drive from Christchurch to the small West Coast settlement of Kumara. It really is like being on a movie set, with the golden grasslands of the Canterbury Plains giving way to a many hues of green as the mountain pass named after a fella called Arthur looms into view.

On this outing however I’ve opted to take yet another route, unfamiliar to me personally but one which is easily navigated and used by thousands of visitors to the wild West Coast each year. This is known as the Inland Road, which parts company with State Highway 1 just a few kilometres south of the marine wildlife centre of Kaikoura. Part of my reason for heading inland is the allure of the thermal hot pools and range of spa therapies on which Hanmer Springs bases its claim to glory. Yes, the constant barrage of television advertising has worked

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 67


on my subconscious, just as it’s designed to do. A stop-over there is a must - and absolute bliss for travel-weary bodies. Tearing a body away from such heavenly experiences was never going to be easy, but I am a man on a mission, with the crashing waves of the mighty Tasman Sea, just a hundred and forty kilometres away, squarely on the radar. The two hour drive to the historic gold and coal mining township of Reefton is conducted with no great haste. That’s as it should be, as I’ve been well briefed that the pace of life on The Coast is a lot less hectic than the one I’m emerging from. While any journey to the West Coast is often one of the best decisions a traveller will ever make, traversing this region at the speed of a Formula One motor racer would constitute a grave error of judgment. Like fine vintage cheese, a good thing takes time to percolate. From Reefton it’s just a hop, skip and jump to the black sands of what is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular coast drives anywhere on Planet Earth. Dotted along that highway - officially it’s known as Number 6 - is a succession of towns and townships, each one providing experiences and adventures amid tales of an earlier time when man sought to tame a land which, more often than not, beat back its invaders. Coal mining, gold mining, agricultural enterprise and shipping up and down one of the most challenging coastlines in the world, created a myriad of tales, most true, but not all. At every turn down this coast, history was created, over centuries. And I find that

Fox Glacier

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not only are the Coasters willing to share it with visitors, they live it as well. From the wide river that carries the name of George Grey - undoubtedly the best known of New Zealand’s colonial governors - through to Hokitika, Highway 6 hugs the coast. My research has shown that iconic visitor attractions exist along this road and my stop-over at the Shantytown Heritage Park proves every bit as interesting as the websites depict. South of Hokitika the main highway darts and dives inland before coming back to the sea that separates the South Pacific’s two biggest nations. It’s a great mix of driving through pristine rainforest, with its multitude of species, on the one hand and being able to stop for one magnificent coastal vista after another on the other. I can’t think of any other region of the country I’ve visited where such diversity exists within such a small distance. As autumn gives way to winter, subtle changes are occurring on The Coast, with the snowline gradually descending on the slopes of the mountains that form a barrier between this Wild West and the more docile eastern side of the island. Any time of the year is a good time to be visiting these parts, but this trip will go down as one of the best yet. The throng of travellers always seen in the peak summer months is thinning, the gentle mantle of white is beginning to settle on the ground in the mornings and stunningly warm days are being enjoyed.


Reaching the twin glaciers - Fox and Franz Josef - is the pinnacle of this coastal excursion and it’s not far beyond Harihari that one enters this magical frozen world, one formed of millions of years of icy twists and turns. Glacier Country, as it is known, is a magnet for travellers from around the world and I am happy to be able to spend a few days here, not only getting up close and personal with the giant walls of ice at first Franz Josef and then Fox, but having the opportunity to join in some of the other excursions on offer from both alpine villages. Skydiving at Fox, kayaking on the still waters of nearby lakes, short walks - and even longer ones - there seems no end to the adventures available in an area that is jaw-dropping beautiful. My leisurely jaunt around Lake Matheson, just to the west of Fox Glacier village, has been written into my memory bank - and is likely to remain there forever. The reflections of the rich rainforest and snow-topped peaks of Mount Tasman and Aoraki/Mount Cook in the distance are pure magic guaranteed to take your breath away. It’s no wonder they’ve been appearing on all manner of promotional material for half a century or more. The delicious afternoon tea at the Lake Matheson Café is a great way to finish this part of my journey. And it’s no wonder the art gallery in that location is called ReflectioNZ.

It’s impossible to capture all the coming and goings of a travel-holic within the confines of an article such as this, but there are a couple of hot tips I’d like to give those who are planning on following in my footsteps. Firstly, there’s every reason to make a number of excursions into the West Coast of the Southern Alps. There is just so much to do and so much to see and experience that driving over Highway 6 at breakneck speed would be doing oneself a great disservice. My other revelation that is one of my own misconceptions has been well and truly dispelled on this journey. I now know that it does not rain cats and dogs for all of the autumn and winter on the West Coast. In fact, this region is almost sub-tropical and I’m impressed when I read the National Institute of Water and Atmospherics’ report that the West Coast gets more hours of sunshine annually than Auckland! Armed with those findings a trip to The Coast should be on the must-do list for those who value warmth of reception by the hardy souls that have chosen to make this region home and for those who have a thirst for history, heritage and a pristine physical environment as Mother Nature intended it. But as I’ve learned from many travels to many parts of Aotearoa New Zealand, a few days on the West Coast of the Southern Alps is never enough. GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 69


Canterbury

CANTERBURY

Craigieburn, Hamilton Peak IMAGE: Black Diamond Safaris

CANTERBURY a winter wonderland by J B Dixon Methven is a true Canterbury town with a strong agricultural influence during the summer months, however once the snow hits there is only one thing on peoples minds... Skiing. After a short drive from Christchurch my skiing buddy Mike and I arrived at our accommodation in Methven where we threw our bags in our room and headed out for a bite to eat.

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t Hutt is the local commercial field with another seven ski areas within an hour or so drive. These ski areas range from large commercial enterprises to small boutique ski club orientated areas. The latter is what we are here for! After a delicious meal at The Last Post we walked across the road to Big Al’s Ski Shop to meet with our ski guide for the next day, Brett from Black Diamond Safaris. Brett had been up the mountain with a group that day and explained the current snow and weather conditions. He also questioned us on the type of terrain and slopes we prefer to ski on. To this we answered long runs and powder bowls. Brett laughed and told us we had come to the right place at the right time and that we were in for a treat tomorrow because it was just starting to snow when he left the ski area that day. Black Diamond Safaris lead tours to three of the local Ski Clubs, Mt Olympus, Broken River and Craigieburn Valley. Each of the three clubs offer different terrain, people and a unique atmosphere. Unfortunately we would only visit one due to our short stay. Brett suggested Craigieburn as the weather conditions and the long runs would suit us best. So we headed back to our accommodation dreading the sleepless night ahead while we awaited the famous Craigieburn Valley. The morning finally came and we awoke to a cool, crisp day with a solid frost around the town. We grabbed our gear and headed back to Big Al's Ski Shop where we found

Brett with a huge smile filling out the daily weather report board. "20cm fresh, mint day" he looked at us and said "What more can I say? Today's the day boys, let's go". We jumped into the beasty BDS 4x4 and took a route through back country roads showing off the stunning Canterbury high country. The trip took about an hour including a brief stop at Lake Lyndon to take it all in. Brett pointed out the Craigieburn mountain range and showed us the type of terrain we were in for. Brett's knowledge of the area was limitless and a few surprise river crossings kept us on our toes. Ahhhh, there it was, Craigieburn Valley. We veered off the desert-like tussock road into a breathtaking native beech forest and up the access road. The trees were caked with snow and lime green moss covered the limbs. Driving under the canopy heightened our suspense before the mountains came into full view once we arrived in the carpark. Brett turned around and said "Bugger, looks like a busy one up here today". Mike and I thought there must have been another carpark because we could only see about 10 cars... Brett grinned at our puzzled look and unloaded our gear. Here we were kitted out with avalanche safety gear and our nutcrackers. Yes nutcrackers! The Club Ski Areas do not have chair lifts or gondolas. They have free spinning ropes that you ride by clamping your "nutcracker" over. Brett told us the nutcracker will be our best friend today and our ticket to a day we would never forget. He would be right!

Black Diamond Safaris 4x4

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 71


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We put our gear on our back and headed over to the ticket office. The few other guests were also here waiting for the field to open. Brett introduced us to some of the mountain staff and locals. We were told that Ski Patrol were 20 minutes away from opening the hill. Brett suggested showing us through the lodges while we waited. Craigieburn consists of an amazing village in the beech forest. Staff accommodation, guest accommodation either private or bunk rooms, a huge canteen area and last but not least, a bar on the third level with great views over Middle basin. Brett's radio went off, "Sounds like she's about to open boys" he said. On the hill we were greeted with more friendly faces and the rope tow. Brett went through the process of riding the tow with me and a slightly different one for Mike as he was snowboarding. Some of the locals offered some help as well. The tow took us a few attempts but we got the hang of it! Our first run was the promised long powder bowl and so were most of the others for that matter. Out on the hill it felt like we were the only ones there, it was magnificent! With our legs demanding a break we stopped for lunch at the day lodge which is situated on a ridge over looking the entire area. Brett asked us how hungry we were and fired up the BBQ. Soon followed a hot meal on the deck overlooking all of our morning skiing.

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FOR THE ULTIMATE, UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE... After a well deserved rest we got back into it. Again Brett’s knowledge of the mountains, the people and of our own abilities was second to none and we felt like we were in very capable hands. We continued to ski new runs one after another never skiing the same twice. The real treat was our last run 600m vertical down the famous Middle basin. Mike took a steep chute and I stayed in the more sensible bowl while Brett skied ahead showing us the way. After countless wide-open turns we arrived on the access road where we yahooed and dished out a few high fives. It was the cheapest heli-ski run I have ever had! We left our gear on the roadside and walked the 10 minutes back to the bar that we visited what seemed like a lifetime ago. Now the bar was cranking with ski movies, music and smiles. We met some more of the locals who convinced us to come back for a ski week in the future. On the drive back to Methven we reflected on our amazing day. Brett told us that the other clubs offer great skiing as well and that they are all very different from each other. We said that we will be back and had never experienced skiing like this before. Although it was just another day in paradise for Brett, for us it was skiing as it should be. We will be back! GTNZ

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www.sovietstar.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com 73


Kaikoura

KAIKOURA

Dusky dophin acrobatics IMAGE: Dolphin Encounter

A Close ENCOUNTER by Helena Wiseman Kaikoura is known as the place “where the mountains meet the sea”, a breathtakingly beautiful place with a mountainous backdrop set back from a rugged coastline where the Pacific Ocean meets the shore. I discovered that there is much more to this place than stunning scenery, and it is definitely worth a closer look.

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aikoura has a quaint appearance with the look of a coastal village more so than a thriving tourist destination, and it is this relaxed vibe that gives this place an appeal all of its own. Kaikoura is well known for its diverse array of marine life and without a doubt this alluring fact further influenced my decision to experience this unique destination for myself. As soon as I arrived and had checked into my accommodation, I decided to take a walk to get a taste of the outdoors. There is no shortage of scenic walks, and each track or trail provides its own unique view of coastline or mountains, much like flicking through a magnificent pictorial book...I set off to walk to the seal colony that is quite an easy walk along the beachfront to the end of the road. Ambling past the wharf I saw the historic pub, the Pier Hotel, which would have to have the most superb views of the mountains across the bay. I made a mental note to stop in on my way back from the seal colony for a cold beer. Further along the way I passed the Seafood Barbecue, an open air eating place that has a focus on seafood cooked to order. It is incredibly popular with visitors and locals and has a rustic charm all of its own. Continuing on to the end of the road, I came to the seal colony, a beautiful place with rugged seams of rock, and of course so many New Zealand fur seals, I literally lost count. From this point, the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway commences, winding up and along the edge of the peninsula and ending at South Bay on the southern side of the peninsula. Other walking tracks connect from the southern side back to the northern side of the peninsula making it easy to get back to where you started from.

Dolphin Encounter

Swim with Dolphins

Snorkelling With Dusky Dophins IMAGE: Dolphin Encounter

Albatross Encounter Kaikoura is regarded as the best place in the world to see seabirds. Get up close to albatross and many other ocean-going species of bird found close to shore.

Café Encou

Dive into the world of the Dusky Dolphin and experience the grace and beauty of the most acrobatic of all dolphin species. • • • • •

• Brilliant photography opportunities are assured. • Expert commentary. • Sightings sheet included. • Up to two tours daily (weather permitting) 9.00am and 1.00pm departures.

nter

Enjoy a delic ious breakf ast, lunch, snack or at our beachfront Café. There’ s outdoor seating wit h beautiful views and plenty of pa rking too. TM

Brilliant photography opportunities. Stunning coastal landscapes. All equipment to swim with the dolphins supplied. If swimming is not for you, watch all the action from the comfort of the boat. Up to two tours daily (weather permitting) 8.30am and 12.30pm departures.

Visit our website www.encounterkaikoura.co.nz or Freephone 0800 733 365 • 96 Esplanade, Kaikoura

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 75


Kaikoura seal colony Neil Protheroe - Images Abound

New Zealand’s Ultimate Year Round Marine Experience

Freephone 0800 655 121

www.whalewatch.co.nz 76 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


THE WHITE MORPH After my seal experience I strolled back to the Pier to relax and take in the views over a cold beer. I was keen to give some thought to finalising my plan for the next day – an encounter with some of the local wildlife! It was hard to choose from the activities on offer as they all sound exhilarating and unique; from swimming with the dusky dolphins, snorkelling with seals or whale watching either by boat or air. I wanted to participate in them all! It was a big decision but after some deliberation, I chose to swim with the dolphins as I have always dreamt of seeing dolphins in their natural ocean habitat. I was not to be disappointed.

I was given my wetsuit and snorkelling equipment to try on and to make sure that it fitted well. Then on to the safety briefing that shows what to expect on the tour and more importantly, how to respect the dolphins when you are in the water with them; and I was ready to go. I was one of a group of only 16 swimmers, and I learned that this was the maximum number of swimmers on each tour. Other passengers can join the tour to watch the dolphins if they are not keen to get their feet wet! It was only a short boat ride before a pod of dusky dolphins was located along the coast, and the crew on board advised us to get ready to enter the water. The sheer excitement mixed with a dash of nerves was almost overwhelming as I looked out and saw the dolphins just to the rear of the boat. I had to remember to breathe normally as I slipped into the water and paddled out in the direction of the dolphins. Before I knew it, I was surrounded by the streamlined shapes of graceful dusky dolphins. I had to adjust to being in the water, and it took me a few seconds to become acclimatised to the wetsuit and the temperature. Then I used my fins to circle around trying to be as graceful as I could, quite a challenge in a buoyant wetsuit I can assure you! I squeaked and squealed with delight through my snorkel and used all my energy to try and keep up with the speed of the duskies who seemed sort of vaguely interested in my antics. The dolphins circled me then spiralled down effortlessly beneath me before rising up to the surface again to breathe. Then they returned as I continued

to snorkel around and up and down trying to hold their attention. It was an experience full of exhilaration and pure adrenalin all rolled into one. I returned to the boat to re-charge and adjust my gear as my mask had become a little loose. The crew on board were marvellous, eager to assist and so enthusiastic and encouraging. At the end of the swim time, we were given an opportunity to capture some photos and videos of the dolphins while listening to a commentary about them and why Kaikoura and, of course, the dusky dolphins are so special. I had hired a GoPro camera for the tour and had great

H

Luxury

Accommodation

fun filming the dolphins when I swam with them. Back at the Encounter Kaikoura base, the footage was copied to a USB, and I had memories of my incredible experience ready to take home with me. Reflecting on the Kaikoura experience, I would have to say it was one of the highlights of my adventures so far. I found the range of accommodation available and the number of eateries pleasantly surprising for a small town; there is no shortage of choice. I especially enjoyed fish and chips on the beach. The seafood is fresh and delicious and admiring the coastal landscape while I munched was a perfect end to a superb day. I will be back in the not too distant future to experience more of this unique gem of a marine paradise – Kaikoura. GTNZ

Waterfront Location 5 Star Premium Spa Studios 4 Star Deluxe, Family and Garden Studios Adjacent to Cinema & Dolphin Encounter 10 minutes walk to shops & restaurants

Reservation & Enquires Free Phone • 0800 803 666 Phone • +64 3 319 5014 Fax • +64 3 319 5015 Email • info@whitemorph.co.nz Web • www.whitemorph.co.nz

92 Esplanade, Kaikoura www.gotravelnewzealand.com 77


Marlborough

MARLBOROUGH

WHERE FALCONS stretch their wings Visitors to Marlborough can get up-close and personal with a New Zealand falcon (karearea) and witness first-hand the incredible aerobatics of New Zealand’s only endemic bird of prey.

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MARLBOROUGH FALCON TRUST “In addition to the Falcon Walk, visitors to the Brancott Estate Heritage Centre can also see a falcon in full-flight as part of the Brancott Estate Falcon Encounter. New Zealand falcons are incredibly acrobatic flyers, able to reach speeds of up to 200kph when hunting.

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uilding on a five-year relationship between the Marlborough Falcon Trust and Brancott Estate, the Marlborough Falcon Trust Falcon Valley at Brancott Estate Heritage Centre is a mustsee visitor experience. For a donation, visitors can view two of the Trust’s advocacy birds, with all donations contributing to ongoing awareness and rehabilitation of falcons at the Trust’s aviary. “Ensuring the future survival of the New Zealand falcon through awareness and education is a key aim of the Marlborough Falcon Trust. Our advocacy falcons give

people the chance to see for themselves how majestic and intelligent these birds are” says Amanda Simcic, Trustee, Marlborough Falcon Trust. In addition to the Falcon Walk, visitors to the Brancott Estate Heritage Centre can also see a falcon in full-flight as part of the Brancott Estate Falcon Encounter. “New Zealand falcons are incredibly acrobatic flyers, able to reach speeds of up to 200kph when hunting” says Amanda. “The Brancott Estate Falcon Encounter is a unique opportunity to see the falcons displaying their flying skills, and is the only experience

of its kind in the South Island.” Also included in the Brancott Estate Falcon Encounter is a tasting of wines from the Brancott Estate Living Land range of organic wines. “The New Zealand falcons are an important part of our vineyard ecosystem, helping to keep grape-eating birds away from the vineyard” says Patrick Materman, Chief Winemaker for Brancott Estate. “Brancott Estate Heritage Centre is one of the leading tourist destinations in Marlborough and we are very proud to be able to use our location to help raise awareness of falcons.”

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IMAGE: Furneaux Lodge Estimated to have less than 3000 pairs in the wild, the New Zealand falcon faces a number of threats which contribute to their ever declining population. Since 2008, the Marlborough Falcon Trust has been raising awareness about the birds, and the dangers that threaten their existence, within the Marlborough region. “We could not have achieved our successful breeding and rehabilitation aviary or this educational walkway without the unwavering support of Brancott Estate. We are very grateful to have conservation partners who are just as passionate about the survival of this species as we are” says Amanda. To date, Brancott Estate has donated $500,000 to the Marlborough Falcon Trust, much of which has been raised through the sale of the Brancott Estate Living Land Series, where one dollar from every bottle is donated to the Living Land Fund. To learn more about the brilliant experiences you can have in Marlborough, visit MarlboroughNZ.com GTNZ

E x p e r i e n c e t h e be a ut y o f t h e

QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND in M arlborough Ne w Zeal and

E s c a pe to the nat ural beauty and tranquillity of the M arlb orough Sounds and en j oy the hos pit al it y o f Punga Cove and Fur neax Lodg e. B oth re sor ts of fe r a ra nge of ac co mmodat i o n options to suit all budgets and are on th e route of th e i c o ni c Qu e e n Ch arlot t e Tra ck. Hike, m ountain bike, swim with dolph ins, dive s un ke n ship s , or jus t k i ck back and relax with us. C on t a c t u s today to enquire about our specials and packag es

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FACT FILE • The Marlborough Falcon Trust was established in 2008 with the aim of increasing the numbers of New Zealand falcons in the Marlborough region while educating the public on the special qualities of this country’s only endemic bird of prey

HELI FISHING CHARTERED FLIGHTS LODGE TRANSFERS

• The Marlborough Falcon Trust is run by volunteers and funded through sponsorship, grants, donations and services in kind

• Brancott Estate has supported Marlborough Falcon Trust since 2010 • One dollar from every bottle of Brancott Estate Living Land Series wine is donated to the Living Land Trust, with the Marlborough Falcon Trust the recipient of these funds

• To date, Brancott Estate has donated $500,000 to the Marlborough Falcon Trust • These funds have been contributed to the construction of a 16 pen rehabilitation and breeding aviary and the ongoing care and wellbeing of the falcons

• In 2011, the first two chicks hatched in the Marlborough Falcon Trust aviary were released

• The New Zealand falcon is depicted on the New Zealand $20 note along with other Marlborough icons including Mt Tapuaenuku, the Marlborough rock daisy and flowering red tussock.

0800 246 359 Ph. Neal 0274 417 443 neal.andrews@precisionhelicopters.com www.gotravelnewzealand.com 81 www.precisionhelicopters.com


Whanganui

WHANGANUI

IMAGES: Whanganui Māori Regional Tourism Organisation

PUANGA a spiritual celebration by Lyn Cheyne My first experience of Puanga was moving, incredible and resounded with the atmosphere and history of Te Awa o Whanganui – the Whanganui River. Having moved to Whanganui eighteen months ago I had heard about this festival and understood it to be the western North Island’s equivalent to Matariki, the celebration of the Māori New Year.

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Whanganui W Ruapehu

2015

Rangitikei

2015

May-Aug 2015

Join the Whanganui Region inJoin celebration the Whanganui of the rising Region starin celebration of the rising star Puanga (Rigel in Orion) and the Puanga beginning (Rigelofinthe Orion) Māori and New theYear beginning of the Māori New Year (Matariki). It is a time to reflect(Matariki). on the year It isthat a time hasto passed, reflectaffirm on the year that has passed, affirm who we are and plan, preparewho and we celebrate are andthe plan, coming prepare year. and celebrate the coming year.

1st May

Puanga Programmes

The Whanganui Regional Museum has many programmes that link to Puanga and are ongoing through Term 2.

27th - 28th May

Taonga Pūoro workshop with Jerome Kavanagh

Enjoy, hear and use taonga pūoro with Jerome Kavanagh. Jerome will facilitate a school class as part of our Puanga celebrations. Join us to learn about Hine-Pu-Te-Hue, peacemaker and guardian of the hue (gourd); hear the melancholy sound of kōauau, the startling proclamation of pūkaea and feel the vibration of pūmoana course through your body.

10th June

Puanga Awa Karakia

Open to all our visitors and the community, this ceremony will acknowledge Te Awa Tupua, Whanganui River and mark the significance of the Puanga and Matariki festival period.

19th - 21st June

Whanganui Taonga Pūoro Wānanga

Three days with some of Aotearoa’s leading Tōhunga Taonga Pūoro exploring tikanga, whakapapa, whakairo, whakapaipai, whakatangitangi, mōteatea and more. Ngā Kaiako: Richard Nunns, Brian Flintoff, Horomona Horo, Warren Warbrick, James Webster, Jerome Kavanagh, Alistair Fraser.

1st - 30th July

Puanga Garden

The Puanga Garden installation at Majestic Square is planted as part of our city’s annual Puanga celebrations. The plants represent species that will attract native birds to your garden and feed them through the summer so that they remain strong through the winter months.

12th August

Kai Night

A banquet of traditional Māori cuisine with a contemporary twist prepared and provided by local iwi. Seafood and forest elements with wild meat and herbs and condiments - bellies will be singing as well as voices!

For more details and lots ofFor other more events details visit: and lots of other events visit:

www.puanga.org.nz www.puanga.org.nz 84 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

For more information

For more information

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Enjoy arts, music, the landscape and our rich heritage.

Whanganui is big enough to entertain and small enough to keep it real. Spend a weekend.

TAKE A

NEW LOOK

For more information:

whanganuinz.com

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Ruapehu

RUAPEHU

The Central Plateau IMAGE: mtruapehu.com

Tiptop TUROA by Basso Brown What did I know about Ruapehu a week ago? I was pretty sure it was a volcano and home to a couple of New Zealand’s largest ski fields, Turoa and Whakapapa. I have been skiing and snowboarding off and on for several years but had not gotten around to exploring any of the North Island’s fields, so when the opportunity arose I grabbed it, and learned what a top destination it is.

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“THE VIEWS FROM THE MOUNTAIN ARE BREATHTAKING and it is good for the soul to take a few minutes to appreciate the natural beauty surrounding the highest mountain in the North Island.

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n arrival at Turoa ski field I was feeling hungry; breakfast seemed like a distant dream and I was ready for a quick coffee and snack to recharge my batteries. They must have read my mind as the Alpine Chalet Cafe, located conveniently next to the beginners area, does an excellent flat white. I always like to warm up and the 120m long Magic Carpet tow looked enticing, so after my coffee I do three gentle fun runs before heading for the chairlifts. The carpet is basically a conveyor belt - you just stand on it (on your board or skis) and it transports you

smoothly up the slope. It was fun to watch the antics of the little children riding toboggans alongside the beginners slope while just relaxing on the ride up. Turoa is perfect for all abilities – there is something for everyone. I found myself well catered for by the twelve groomed intermediate runs that are generally smooth and wide and link up to each other. I was a little rusty after missing out on the last couple of seasons, so it was just perfect to have a really nice long run from the top of Australasia’s highest lift to the base area.

I signed on for a group lesson and after getting in a couple of runs it’s time to meet up with the instructor. The hour and fifty-minute lesson is perfect for me. I am an intermediate boarder and keen to start moving a little higher up the slopes, and afterwards I feel like I am turning a lot more fluidly and relaxing into it. Chatting with my instructor Sigmund Chan (Siggy) he tells me he splits his year between Turoa and Whistler in Canada. His first season at Turoa was in 2007, and he has been back and worked five full seasons since then. Talking to Sigmund his

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love for teaching comes across clearly: “I love teaching as I love seeing people get stoked from this sport, anything from doing their first turns to landing a trick.”. Sigmund’s teaching style totally appeals to me: he explains things clearly and simply and avoids becoming too technical. He also takes the time to go over the best tactics to deal with varying snow conditions from ice to bumps and also gives individual feedback. Feeling on a high after making good progress, it’s time to break for lunch at Turoa’s incredible Giant Cafe located three-quarters of the way up the mountain. The atmosphere is warm and friendly, and there is plenty of hot food, fresh sandwiches and espresso. I sit with a group of snowboarders and skiers who by all accounts are die hard Turoa regulars. Matt, a twenty-something shredder from Auckland, tells me this is his seventh season at Turoa, and it is still as exciting to him as his first. He loves some of the more challenging terrain Turoa offers such as the longest vertical drop in Australasia (I immediately make a mental note to avoid that!). There is a great energy about this group of guys and girls, and it is fun to hear their stories. Too soon, the sun is hanging a little lower in the sky, and it’s time to make one last run. The views from the mountain are breathtaking, and it is good for the soul to take a few minutes to appreciate the natural beauty surrounding the highest mountain in the North

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IMAGE: mtruapehu.com


Island. I would love to take some more time to explore this natural wonder that is Mount Ruapehu. On my way back to my accommodation I dropped my rental gear into Ski Biz located in the National Park Village. The boots they had fitted me with were comfy, and the board was perfectly tuned. What a fantastic day; I had the best lesson I have experienced so far and met some lovely people. Turoa really turned it on for me, and I could not have asked for better facilities and equipment or a better day’s boarding. Turoa is tops! GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 91


Taranaki

TARANAKI

Len Lye Trilogy: A Flip And Two Twisters

Len Lye Centre in construction before the stainless steel facade was erected, October 2014.

IMAGE: Glenn Jeffrey

THE LEN LYE CENTRE NZ’s foremost contemporary art museum by Anna McLaren & Kelly Loney Aotearoa New Zealand is about to open the doors to its first and only museum of contemporary art. The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre, with its curved exterior walls of mirror-like stainless steel, will be the country’s first example of destination architecture linked to contemporary art. 92 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


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he latest addition to the GovettBrewster - the Len Lye Centre - is New Zealand’s first institution dedicated to a single artist, the pioneering filmmaker and kinetic sculptor, Len Lye. Set in the coastal city of New Plymouth, overlooked by the majestic Mount Taranaki on the west coast of the North Island, the centre is due to open on 25 July, 2015. GOVETT-BREWSTER AND LEN LYE The Govett-Brewster was founded by a gift to the city of New Plymouth, from one of its greatest ‘Friends’ Monica Brewster. A globetrotter before the age of air travel, Monica Brewster envisaged an art museum for her hometown that would be an international beacon for the art and ideas of the current day – the sort she had become familiar with on her global travels. The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery continues in the legacy of Monica Brewster by taking on and presenting the most provocative, audacious and confident works of art in the global arts landscape. Len Lye (1901-1980) exhibited at the Govett-Brewster in 1977 and falling in love with the energy and landscape of New Plymouth, he chose the contemporary art museum to be the home of Len Lye. Just months before his death in 1980, Lye established the Len Lye Foundation to continue his artistic vision, gifting his entire collection of more than 18,000 items to be cared for by the Govett-Brewster.

THE LEN LYE CENTRE ‘Great architecture goes fifty-fifty with great art’ LEN LYE 1964 The Len Lye Centre building, adjoining the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, is an example of innovative thinking in both engineering and architecture. The external stainless steel façade echoes the artist’s use of the metal in many of his kinetic sculptures, and the futuristic style of the building acts as a counterfoil to the neighbouring Govett-Brewster’s more traditional lines. The architects are Pattersons, one of New Zealand’s most internationally recognised architectural firms. The new building – the Len Lye Centre – will feature Lye’s work in kinetic sculpture, film, painting, drawing, photography, batik and writing, as well as related work by contemporary and historical artists. The Centre also houses a state-of-the-art 62seat cinema – a welcoming environment for audiences to experience Len Lye’s films, local

The sun rises over the Len Lye Centre, March 2015. IMAGE: Glenn Jeffrey

Artist Len Lye in studio 1958, unknown photographer. Courtesy of the Len Lye Foundation. IMAGE: Govett-Brewster Art Gallery www.gotravelnewzealand.com 93


and international cinema, arthouse and experimental films, and regular film festival programming. LEN LYE – THE ARTIST A visionary New Zealander, an inspirational artist, a pioneer of film; Len Lye is one of the most important and influential artists to emerge from New Zealand. Lye’s iconic 45-metre kinetic sculpture Wind Wand sways gently on New Plymouth’s Coastal Walkway. The Wind Wand that glows red at night, is the first large outdoor sculpture to be built posthumously from his plans and drawings. And plans are afoot to install a group of six 4.5-metre tall Wind Wands at New Plymouth’s East End beach in time for the opening of the Len Lye Centre in July 2015.

Twisters) – a frenzy of movement and light designed for the Govett-Brewster’s highest gallery. The Len Lye Foundation is reconstructing Trilogy so that it will be reinstated in the same place for the reopening of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery. Taking inspiration from the musical elements in Lye’s work, the exhibition Len Lye’s Jam Session presents the bounding steel of Universe, the flashing energy of film, and the delicate sway of Grass – with music going hand-in-hand with the artist’s creations. Opening in the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery is Our Hearts of Darkness, an exhibition largely curated from the treasure trove of the Govett-Brewster Collection. The show looks at codes of violence in Aotearoa New Zealand culture as expressed through contemporary art. GTNZ

OPENING EXHIBITIONS One of the Len Lye Centre’s opening exhibitions is Len Lye: Four Fountains in the new Large Works Gallery. An audience favourite, the gentle, swaying Fountain is among the earliest of Lye’s kinetic sculptures – a bundle of rotating stainless steel rods that twist, flex and shimmer under the gallery’s lights. The exhibition presents four variations of Fountain, including a new member of the family of works, the 8-metre tall version engineered by the Len Lye Foundation from Lye’s extensive archive of notes and designs. As a filmmaker Len Lye described cinema as ‘movement and light’. In 1977 he brought sculpture into the same frame with his kinetic masterpiece, Trilogy (A Flip and Two

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery director Simon Rees with Mt Taranaki in the background. IMAGE: Mark Smith

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Architects’ impression of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre exterior. IMAGE: Patterson Associates Ltd


Len Lye’s kinetic sculpture ‘Fountain’, will be part of the Len Lye Centre’s opening exhibition ‘Four Fountains’. IMAGE: Trevor Read

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Rotorua

ROTORUA

Mountain biking in Rotorua’s Whakarewarewa Forest

The ultimate GETAWAY by Michelle Parker Weaving between trees as sunlight pours through the canopy always makes me feel like I’m really away from it all. Mountain biking getaways with my husband are a favourite pastime and Rotorua is the ultimate spot with world class trails for all ability levels. Relaxing afterwards at the Polynesian Spa is magic too as the hot mineral waters soothe and revive the body.

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My hubby Jack and I planned a trip in April, coming down from Auckland on the three hour drive and getting straight into riding. Arriving at Mountain Bike Rotorua, we were soon kitted up with full suspension Giant mountain bikes, helmets and gloves. We also decided to hire a guide for the trip to discover the new trails which had been built since we were last here.

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ur guide Louis is a top international mountain bike athlete and just a genuinely cool guy. He made sure our suspension and bike size fit was perfect, we grabbed a smoothie from the Waipa Store onsite and then headed off to catch the shuttle bus. Louis took us straight to a new trail called Eagle vs Shark at the top of the drop off. A couple of pedal strokes was all we needed for the fast and flowy fun to begin. Flying closely between trees, this track just took off and felt incredible. Near the end, we emerged from between the trees into an opening and hooked some really high berms, before zooming back into the trees again. At the end of it we were on cloud nine, the first new trail was a masterpiece. Next up, Louis took us to Be Rude Not To, which was also felled and rebuilt with open flowy sections up top. We flew through the landscape and berms before it tightened up amongst the treeline and became more technical. Riding to Nursery Road, we then pedalled up to the new Challenge Trail lines and then Genesis. Louis explained that Whakarewarewa Forest has a unique public/ private partnership model, where the land is Iwi owned, managed by the council and the Rotorua Mountain Bike Club with its volunteers maintaining and building trails, so the forest continually evolves. It was awesome to see this at work and after hitting a few more trails, Louis took us back to the hub where we had a snack and a chat with him about his upcoming racing around the world.

Our awesome mountain bike guide, Louis, competing at Crankworx Rotorua IMAGE: Clint Trahan

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Polynesian Spa overlooks lake Rotorua

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Priest Spring Spa, at Polynesian Spa in Rotorua www.gotravelnewzealand.com 99


Then it was time to treat the body to ultimate relaxation at Polynesian Spa. Buying an admission to the Adult Pools, we entered the complex featuring seven mineral pools – three with water from the acidic Priest Spring (39°C - 42°C) and four with water from the alkaline Rachael Spring (38°C - 39°C) We were soon lying in 40°C acidic waters from the Priest Spring, named after Father Mahoney, a Catholic Priest who was ‘cured’ of his crippling arthritis from bathing in the waters in 1878. The slightly acidic water relieves tired muscles, aches and pains. The hot waters certainly soothed our muscles and made us feel peaceful. We then moved across to the stand up pool, fed from the Rachael Spring, to walk around in the hot waters and stretch the legs a bit. The Rachael Spring is a source of alkaline water, which features the antiseptic action of sodium silicate nourishing the skin. It was historically said that those who bathe in the waters of the Rachael Spring are blessed with ageless beauty. After moving from pool to cascading pool, we also tried the new reflexology walk which has alkaline waters flowing across it. Right next to the lakefront, it is a beautiful, relaxing spot to give your feet the love they deserve after a day’s riding. Reflexology is an ancient healing art that applies pressure to specific areas of the feet. By walking in barefeet on the stones along the reflexology walk, it stimulates pressure points that correspond to all major body organs and areas – encouraging vital energy and blood flow throughout the body, relieving stress, improving balance and enhancing physical and mental wellbeing. Finally tearing ourselves away from the reflexology walk and pools, we walked out with a lighter spring in our step, feeling completely relaxed. Grabbing a fresh green juice on our way out, Jack and I headed back to Auckland for another work week, knowing we’d done our bodies some favours over the weekend. GTNZ To book your own ultimate escape in Rotorua, contact: Polynesian Spa P: +64 7 348 1328 www.polynesianspa.co.nz Mountain Bike Rotorua P: NZ freecall 0800 682 768 www.mtbrotorua.co.nz

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 78,900 Area - 2,619 km2 Nickname: NZ’s coolest hot spot Main reason to visit: Geothermal activity, Lakes, Mountain Biking and Māori Culture History: Polynesian Spa is built on the site of historic bath houses for which Rotorua first became world famous in the 1800s

Bike Hire - Tours - Cafe Servicing - Information

0800 682 768

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Fun fact: Rotorua is the birthplace of New Zealand tourism with the famed pink and white terraces considered the eighth wonder of the natural world. Unfortunately they were reclaimed by Mount Tarawera when it erupted late in the 19th century.


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SHWEEB The only human powered monorail race track in the entire world! Take a leisurely ride and enjoy seeing NZ scenery from a whole new perspective. Feeling energetic? You can race one on one or two on two with maximum speeds of up to 50kms. With male and female world records and country and age up for grabs – just lean back and get peddling!

FREEFALL XTREME Learn to fly with New Zealand’s only body flying experience! The team will suit you up and give you some training before escorting you out onto our 12m inflated flight deck - with winds powering up at 200kmph you will be held up at 3m for a minute and a half to experience the sensation of a skydive freefall – plenty of time for you to control your flight and have some fun with it. As a bonus you will find out how much skin you really have on your face and we throw in a new hair style free of charge!

AGROJET A little Ferrari on water, Agrojet accelerates from 0 -100 kmph in four seconds! Don’t confuse this with the bigger scenic jet boat rides with larger crowds of

participants – this is more intimate and way too fast for leisurely soaking up the scenery! Only two on each trip consisting of three exhilarating laps finishing off with a heart-thumping 360 degree spin. BUNGY Take a 43m ultimate leap of faith with our bungy - single or tandem. The three point safety system secures you from your ankles and waist for extra added reassurance. Choose whether to jump from ankles or chest so you can flip around and try out all your Nitro circus acrobatic moves!

SWOOP Experience New Zealand’s only swing of its kind – up to three are suspended in secure body harnesses and slowly elevated to 40m where you activate your own rip cord sending yourself rocketing downwards at 130kmph only to swoop upwards one and a half metres from the ground! A thrilling ride to share with friends! Caution: Swoop has been known to cause grown men to scream like school girls...

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Taupo

TAUPO

IMAGES: courtesy of Fishysteve.com

FLY FISHING a life-long passion by Steve Sprague, aka Fishy Steve Taupo has been the destination of many traveling anglers for over a century, including the Duchess of York and Zane Grey, who described the Taupo fishery as “An Angler’s Eldorado”.

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ild trout were first introduced to Lake Taupo and its rivers in the late 1880’s (brown trout from Tasmania and rainbows from Northern California rivers). Since then the fishery has developed a reputation for being one of the world’s greatest naturally reproducing, wild trout fisheries. The runs of wild brown and rainbow trout that enter the rivers of the Taupo region every year ensure plenty of opportunities to catch “the big one”! These fish can often be spotted in the crystal clear waters of the Taupo rivers. The fish can grow into massive specimens feeding on Smelt, a small baitfish, as well as freshwater crayfish. These trout average around 3 pounds and some reach the magical trophy size of 10 pounds plus. With Taupo offering year round fly fishing, anytime is a good time to try your luck!

There is a lot of information to take on board when first learning to fly fish, and it can be a bit overwhelming at times. With the help of a few mates, I quickly picked up some skills and started to really enjoy my time on the water. I also attended a guide school at a highly respected fishing lodge in Northern California - Clearwater Lodge. This intensive guide training proved invaluable. Information and skills about the fly fishing guiding service as a whole and how to teach others were the focus. I found one of the great things about fly fishing is that there is always more to learn. You will never know everything. You can spend the rest of your fishing days

My name is Steve Sprague (you can call me Fishy Steve) and I am a professional fly fishing guide based in Taupo, located in the Central North Island of New Zealand. I have had the privilege of calling Taupo home for nearly 14 years now; what a pleasure it has been! Soon After meeting my Kiwi wife in Lake Tahoe, California, I purchased a beginner fly rod kit from a local shop. Little did I know then, but that fly rod would change my life. After spending six months trying to figure out the basics, I joined the Tahoe Truckee Fly Fishers (a fly fishing club dedicated to helping people enjoy the art of fly fishing). I also took on a job at a local fly shop. www.gotravelnewzealand.com 103


becoming a better angler; it is a life-long pursuit of knowledge! Fly fishing is a form of fishing using mainly light tackle and thin line. The point is to try and imitate the behaviour of aquatic insects found in the rivers and lakes that the trout feed on. Hand-made “flies” made of feather, fur and some synthetics are used to imitate these insects. Fly fishing is not just a cast it out there and wait; you are constantly casting and covering the water in hopes of getting the “take”. When a trout decides your imitation and presentation look real and is a meal they do not want to let go by - it “strikes” and it is “fish on”! I have been guiding full-time for over 15 years now and really enjoy sharing my passion for fly fishing with others. In addition to the seasoned fly fisherman, the Taupo

Looking for the Ultimate Driving Experience? Why not join Formula Challenge who are based at Taupo, plus we have specific days at Hampton Downs Motorsport Park - Take on the challenge of driving a Ford or Holden V8 or a Formula Challenge Single Seater Racecar.

Never been on track before - don’t worry, you just need to be able to drive a manual car and you’ll receive a detailed briefing on how to drive our racecars. Then you will be fitted out in a racesuit, helmet and boots ensuring that you are ready for a safe and exciting day at the racetrack. Check our website for available dates as pre booking is essential. So why not give us a call to feel the power and thrill of driving a pure racecar on track!!

See you at the track soon!!!! Mention this ad when booking and receive a 10% discount.

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www.fcr.co.nz 0800 327 2669

fishery offers many opportunities for the beginner fly angler. There is an abundance of easily accessible rivers in close proximity to Taupo township, making it very easy to get in a day or two of fly fishing. Many of these rivers are perfect for learning the basics and putting them to use. Alternatively, if you are an experienced angler looking for an epic adventure, you will find it here! The places you tend to find yourself when fly fishing are some of the most beautiful places on earth. I have a passion for sharing New Zealand’s beautiful rivers and helping others new to fly fishing attain the skills necessary to become happy and successful anglers. There is nothing else I would rather do! I enjoy teaching an understanding of the gear used during a typical day’s fishing and a little about the habitat and behaviours of the fish. Sometimes the fish play


fair, and they can be brought in with a bit of effort. Other times the hard fighting trout get airborne and acrobatic as they try and dislodge the fly. The powerful pull of a hard fighting trout on light gear is a feeling rarely duplicated in other types of fishing. With all of this excitement, it must be time for lunch! There are not many cafes in New Zealand that rival the beauty of a riverside lunch. Often we can find fish to watch as we share a nice home-made lunch, usually prepared by my lovely wife, Sara. Then it’s time to explore different areas of the river. Each new spot often requires new casts and techniques in order to be productive. When fish are brought to the net, they are often photographed then released to fight another day. The alternative is to keep your catch and prepare it for a delicious dinner. By the end of the day, a complete beginner can develop the knowledge to catch trout nearly anywhere in the world.

Experience New Zealand’s World Class Fly Fishing. Half-Day Fly Fishing from $300 Full-Day Fly Fishing from $600 • No experience necessary • Specialised beginner instruction • All fishing equipment provided • Heli and raft fishing trips • Free pick-up from your Taupo/Turangi accommodation

A day’s fly fishing is truly an amazing experience, and many have told me that their day fly fishing was the highlight of their New Zealand holiday. So If you’ve ever wanted to give fly fishing a go, there is no better place than Taupo! GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 105 M 0272935335 W www.fishysteve.com


Bay of Plenty

BAY OF PLENTY

White Island IMAGES: courtesy of Aerius Helicopters

WALKING on the moon by Teresa Kulesza My fortieth birthday was on the horizon, and I was struggling to come up with a way to celebrate it. I knew I wanted to be back in my hometown of Tauranga to catch up with friends, but beyond that... Imagine my surprise when two of my oldest and dearest friends announced they were shouting me a scenic helicopter flight over White Island!

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THE PACIFIC RING OF FIRE “White Island (or Whakaari) lies 52 kilometres off the Bay of Plenty coast and is New Zealand’s most active volcano. Built up by continuous volcanic activity over the past 150,000 years it is a link in the chain of volcanoes known as the Pacific Ring of Fire.

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heir thoughtful gift combined two elements on my wish list: flying in a helicopter and seeing a volcano. I had been fascinated with volcanoes since primary school when a teacher had demonstrated an eruption from a paper mache volcano albeit with food colouring, baking soda and vinegar. The morning of the flight was crisp and clear. As my friends and I made the short trip to Tauranga Airport I was full of nervous anticipation at the thought of my first ever helicopter flight. Kay and Louise had recent-

ly been on a sight-seeing flight with Aerius Helicopters and were excited to be able to share the experience with me. White Island (or Whakaari) lies 52 kilometres off the Bay of Plenty coast and is New Zealand’s most active volcano. Built up by continuous volcanic activity over the past 150,000 years it is a link in the chain of volcanoes known as the Pacific Ring of Fire. I have done a little research over the years about volcanoes in general; little did I know that I was about to get up close and personal with this one!

Our pilot Dave escorted us to the helicopter – a four seater including pilot (one of two the company offers – the other being a six seater including pilot). Dave got us all comfortably aboard and buckled in – he has a very calm, friendly demeanour which helped set me at ease as my nerves were definitely getting the better of me at that stage. I had no idea what to expect as Dave started the helicopter, and the rotor began spinning. The revs increased to seemingly fever-pitch and then we were gently climbing away into the air with the ground steadily receding below. It was a very different sensation com-

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F O R E T A R C LK IN THE

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WA

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“Winter Deal” Use the code “WHITE WINTER” when booking to receive 10% off your White Island Volcanic Tour Conditions may apply, Valid until 30/09/2015

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www.aerius.co.nz


pared to an airplane taking off. I now know why people love to do this – the feeling of smoothly ascending while the beautiful vista unfolded below was incredible. The visibility was excellent as most of the cockpit is a perspex bubble, and I took the opportunity to take some aerial photos of the Bay of Plenty coastline; stunning beaches and pristine blue water. The flight took 30 minutes but seemed more like ten as I tried to take everything in. Dave knows the area well having worked with Aerius Helicopters for seven years and was able to point out various beaches and islands of interest. His well-trained eye also spotted a pod of dolphins. Soon we were approaching White Island, and the view was breathtaking; shrouded in a cloud of steam there was an aura of magic about the volcano. No better way to have a first encounter with such an ancient and powerful beast than from the air. As Dave flew us directly over the crater, he casually announced that was where we would be “landing in a few minutes”. I was blown away when my friends quickly confirmed that we were going to get to walk in the crater of the volcano!

The remnants of a sulphur mining operation

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A volcanic green lake

Dave expertly and gently touched the helicopter down in the crater. We were soon all standing and looking around in awe at the crazy moonscape surrounding us; steam rose from fumaroles (vents in the crater), and the smell of sulphur reigned supreme. Nothing can prepare you for the unshakeable feeling that you have stepped through a portal in time and have been transported back to primordial times when the planet was still forming. Mud bubbled and gurgled, and hot streams flowed and there was a constant roar of volcanic activity; I couldn’t help but keep glancing up skywards expecting to see a jumbo jet. Dave assured me that he still checks for jet planes when he hears the roar although he has visited White Island numerous times. We set off on an hour’s walk that was not demanding and definitely worth it. We 110 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

ascended the crater and were rewarded with an amazing view of the crater lake – a steaming, bright green body of water. Dave told us that the vivid hue of the lake is due to the presence of sulphur and micro-organisms. Parts of the surface of the crater were a bright yellow. It was strange to see the landscape so influenced by the presence of sulphur. Dave kept us informed about our surroundings with his interesting and knowledgeable snippets, but did not overwhelm us with facts and pointed out the best places to take photos. It was appreciated that we could soak up the atmosphere in peace and take the time to capture the moment on film. As we approached the remnants of a sulphur mining operation, Dave told of the hardy folk who lived and worked on the island in the early 20th century, processing


the sulphur for various products including fertilizer. Ten workers perished in a lahar (or mudslide) caused by the partial collapse of the crater in 1914. It was eerie walking amongst the abandoned machinery – huge corroded cogs frozen in time. Production continued off and on over the years until the 1930s when the island was bought by George Buttle. Today the island is part of the Buttle Family Trust, and its pristine condition is due to having been declared a Private Scenic Reserve. Access is only granted through designated tour operators who ensure that visitors leave nothing and remove nothing from the island. Our tour reached its conclusion as we wended our way back to the helicopter. It was sad to think the walking tour was over, but a bonus that I could still enjoy another ride. As we rose up over the steaming island, I was once again spellbound by its wild, ancient beauty. Watching as the island receded into the distance I felt a great sense of satisfaction in having had such a unique experience. By far, the most remarkable birthday gift I have ever received and an experience that will I relive time and again in my daydreams. GTNZ

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Coromandel

COROMANDEL

A MAGICAL retreat by Lynette Dey As one of New Zealand’s best-loved summer holiday destinations, The Coromandel might not immediately come to mind as a place to visit in the cooler months. However, as the long summer days shorten, and the golden light of autumn replaces the bright summer sun, the iconic coastline of The Coromandel remains as tranquil and clear as ever.

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he shorter, cooler days are perfect conditions to explore the walkways, beaches and forests, and the slower pace of life on the peninsula, just 90 minutes from our largest city, Auckland, provides a restoring getaway from a busy schedule. The eastern coastal town of Whitianga is home to a secluded spot that is perfect for a winter getaway, rainy day escape, or romantic weekend. Situated in the heart of down town, you could pass by this gate on your way to the beach, never realising that behind the lush semi-tropical foliage lies the exotic sanctuary that is The Lost Spring. The Coromandel experienced intense volcanic activity many millions of years ago, resulting in the iconic coastal formations found in the Cathedral Cove and surrounds for which we are so famous, and a large geothermal plain on which the town of Whitianga now lies. Indigenous Māori spoke of secret locations where heated waters bubbled to

The Lost Spring’s Amethyst Cave Pool

121A Cook Drive, Whitianga 3510 Phone: 07 866 0456 Fax: 07 866 0457 Email us today: magic@thelostspring.co.nz (General enquiries) dayspa@thelostspring.co.nz (Dayspa bookings and enquiries)

Crystal Clear water from 667 meters below the earth’s surface.

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Couple enjoying the thermal pool

the surface, springs revered for their warmth and healing properties, and a lost geo-thermal hot spring that had once flowed into the Taputapuatea Stream (locally known as the Mother Brown Stream). Alan Hopping, owner of a camp ground in Cook Drive, was fascinated by The Coromandel’s thermal history and inspired by local stories, Alan began a lifelong project to discover the lost spring of Whitianga. With a vision of a therapeutic thermal resort, Alan dreamed of creating an accessible, but magical and secluded retreat that would combine the restorative powers of the thermal spring with modern spa culture. After many years (more than 20) of drilling, building and planting, The Lost Spring became a reality in 2008, when it finally opened to an expectant public. Nestled in a 1.5 hectares of a lush semi-tropical forest of native trees, delicate ferns and graceful palms, The Lost Spring is a luxury thermal pool complex with a day spa, lounge area and on site restaurant. As you enter the reception area, housed in the restored historic schoolhouse, the sounds 114 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015

of trickling waterfalls and calming Pacifica music are immediate tonics for the senses. The day we went, the patter of soft rain on the palm leaves enhanced the tranquil tropical feeling. As you leave the reception area to envelop yourself in the thick Pohutukawa coloured robe provided, you are already beginning to relax The sculpted amethyst pools shimmer invitingly through caves and grottos to provide tranquil private places for total relaxation. The therapeutic thermal pools range in temperature from the Amethyst Cave Pool at 32 degrees Celsius, through warm shallows and the Bathtub Terraces to the Crater Lake Hot Pool at the base of The Lost Spring Volcano, at a core-warming 40 degrees. The Lost Spring Day Spa takes pampering to another level. Whether you have an hour or two, or the time to indulge in a whole day of rejuvenation treatments, the spa menu will have something to suit. The team of trained therapists will select personalised treatment combinations to suit your body and state of mind, or you may select from combination packages and specialised

treatment options. We loved the smell and feel of the Pure Fiji products used by our therapists in the soothing massage. Taut shoulder muscles felt deliciously relaxed, skin smooth and rehydrated, and it was an effort to rouse ourselves from the experience and snuggle back into our luxurious robes. If you are planning to stay for the day, there are plenty of opportunities to nourish your


inner self from the selection on the menu in the licensed restaurant. The fresh platters and light bites are favourites with guests, and brunch, lunch and dinner meal options cover most tastes. Whether you decide to dine al fresco by the pool or in the restaurant, The Lost Spring cocktails add a decadent touch. The 100 percent pure natural spring waters rise nearly 700 metres from the underground spring deep below the surface. Research has shown that water from the spring is thousands of years old and is rich in minerals that nourish your skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple. Sustainability and water quality are paramount; the geothermal waters are filtered and UV treated to ensure l00 percent pure crystal clear water. The pools are filled to the brim, and as they gently overflow, the thermal waters return to their source far below the earth, restored to their natural state as they pass through purifying ground layers. While we enjoyed our time at The Lost Spring as a glum weather special treat after some particularly hectic weeks at work, if you lived locally or visited The Coromandel regularly, we believe you would find yourself a regular. The combination of handy location (walking distance from accommodation, beach and main street) and feeling of utter seclusion and luxury is a winner. Its great for a romantic evening, a girls catch up, a special occasion or as part of a healthy regime. It’s not a place for young families though - you will need to leave children aged under 14 at home with a minder, and if you are between 14 and 18, you must be accompanied by an adult. Which leaves the hushed tranquillity of the luxury complex completely unbroken. The Lost Spring is open year round, 7 days a week, and it really is a 12-month destination. A very good reason to take a short break to The Coromandel, or perhaps a winter holiday, knowing you will enjoy a sure fire “good for your soul” experience. GTNZ

Driving Creek Railway: New Zealand's only narrow gauge mountain railway. The one hour return trip takes you through replanted native bush and includes 2 spirals, 3 short tunnels, 5 reversing points and several bridges as it climbs up to the Eyefull Tower terminus with panoramic views over the island studded Hauraki Gulf. Attractions include a fenced wildlife sanctuary, art gallery, book shop and pottery. Trains run daily. Bookings advisable. Parking, toilets and wheelchair access. Situated 3 km north of Coromandel town.

P: 07 8668703 E: railway@drivingcreek.co.nz

www.drivingcreekrailway.co.nz

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Auckland

AUCKLAND

Snow Planet free ski action

UNDER the snow dome by Julie Ann Pomana I was intrigued when a friend invited me to check out the Facebook page for Snowplanet – I had no idea Auckland is home to New Zealand’s only year-round indoor snow resort. The timing of this discovery was spot on as my family was due for a weekend adventure, and we had already decided upon Auckland.

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y husband regularly visits on business and often suggested we segue business into pleasure and explore the city. It had been a few seasons since we had skied, and we had always meant to take our now ten-year-old son, so a day at Snowplanet became the focal point of our trip. We had the convenience of a rental car, and it was an easy commute from downtown Auckland to Silverdale. However, there are buses regularly running throughout the day and evening too. I surprised our son, Liam by booking a snowboarding package for him and me which included equipment hire and a 50-minute lesson. I have always skied, but the opportunity to learn to snowboard in a controlled environment was too good to miss. Walking in I was blown away by the scale of the resort; so much snow and the familiar sound of the platters as they steadily transport people up the enticing 200 metre slope - it really feels like stepping into winter. The snow was in top condition – it is produced twice weekly and kept at a chilly -5 degrees. We were all keen to get started on our day. My husband Greg was quickly sorted as he had brought his own ski gear and once he purchased his pass he was soon waving to us from one of the platters as he headed up.

LIFE’S MORE FUN AT NEW ZEALAND’s

ONLY INDOOR

SKI FIELD

The staff in rentals were friendly and professional and took the time to make sure us newbies knew how to adjust our bindings and that everything was the right fit. We were in luck as our instructor Justin was free to take us for our lesson as soon as we were kitted out with gear. The ride up to the beginner area is via a magic carpet – the most user-friendly tow as all you do is stand on it, and it gently transports you up. My son thought it was fantastic. I must confess that being new to snowboarding I had not relished the thought of tackling either of the two platter tows without first getting a handle on how to manoeuvre my board! Justin had an awesome attitude and set my son, and I at ease immediately; his mission was clearly to share his passion for snowboarding and instil in us both good, solid technique.

91 Small Rd, Silverdale, Auckland | 09 427 0044

www.snowplanet.co.nz


GET EXCITED!

Day trips and multi day trips, north & south islands! With overnight adventures, scenic walks, amazing scenery and much more!

Hobbiton Movie Set & Farm Tours including The Shires Rest Cafe · West Coast Wine Tour · Experience Milford · Raglan Surf Trips · Rotorua, Taupo & Waitomo Caves · Coromandel coast · Bay of Islands · North Island Snow Adventures

Taking you places others don't Matthew +64274 855 856 or +493794545 Bronson +6421 883 623 or +493794545 E: info@aucklandadventures.co.nz PO Box 31-772 Milford, Auckland 0741

www.aucklandadventures.co.nz

Fifty minutes flew by and at the end of it I felt ready to ride the platter up the 200-metre long slope. It was well worth it and after a few runs my confidence grew and my technique improved. Liam was doing better than me, and Greg teamed up with him to do a few runs. An hour later Greg and Liam were buzzing about their morning as we headed to the 7 Summits Restaurant to grab some much-needed refreshments. It felt like luxury to have the restaurant on hand – the layout was ideal with a full view of the antics in the snow dome and it was an unexpected bonus to still feel part of the action while taking a break. As I was looking over the extensive menu, I overheard a Canadian guy raving about his pizza, and my choice was made. Greg and Liam chose beef burgers with the Swiss chocolate fondue (for two) for dessert. I was feeling famished, and I was pleased when our food soon appeared. My Moroccan beef pizza was the best I have tasted, and after a hot chocolate I felt replenished and raring to get back out on the slope.


Skiing the slopes at the Snow Planet ski centre IMAGE: Snow Planet The rest of the day flew by, and I lost count of the number of runs I got in. Gregg and Liam hired tubes and had a blast racing each other, occasionally bailing out but always accompanied by hoots of laughter. Snowplanet is a great place to pick up a new skill or, like my husband, refine ones you already have. The convenience of rental equipment, lessons and refreshments all on hand can’t be beaten. I would go again in a heartbeat – whether as a fun family day out or a way to limber up and get ready to hit the mountains. The atmosphere is like a winter festival – everyone is having fun and on a high about doing what they love. We all agreed that next time we would check out the resort on a Friday night when their world-class terrain park with its rails, jumps and jibs takes over the slope until midnight. I am picturing myself enjoying this spectacle from 7 Summits over a glass of Sauvignon of course! GTNZ


Whangaparaoa Lodge The charm of casual luxury

Story by Louise Jacobs Imagine the convenience of Auckland City a few minutes away while you relax and unwind away from the hustle and bustle at a gorgeous lodge where your hosts aspire to take care of your every need. After one of the best night's sleep you will ever have, fancy starting your day with a delicious cooked breakfast that you can enjoy on your balcony looking out over Little Manly Beach?

Troy Clarry has earned his stripes and more in the international world of hospitality over the last twenty plus years. He knows a thing or two about luxury from his role of General Manager of the Ritz-Carlton managed Bulgari Hotels and Resorts Tokyo Restaurants in Japan. After many years overseas Troy and his wife Tomoko wanting to take charge of the destiny of their young family decided to move back to New Zealand. The draw card was about being able to spend more time together as a family and being free to create and implement their own ideas – the latter is reflected in the on-going development and evolution of the rooms and breakfast products, always taking into account guest feedback and current market trends both local and international. Much pride is taken in the creation of the breakfast menu that has been developed from 20 years' experience in hotel restaurants (four of which were awarded the coveted Michelin Star). Combining this knowledge with a local touch sees menu items as simple as "porridge made the way Mum makes it" topped with Golden Syrup, two eggs scrambled with smoked salmon and white truffle oil and the Kiwi favourite of eggs benedict – the Hollandaise, of course, made a la minute per order. Troy says their priority at Whangaparaoa Lodge is guest satisfaction, and the financial rewards of hard work only come after a guest leaves feeling satisfied. He loves his job and getting to experience a multitude of guests, their cultures and their likes and dislikes. Although the job can be demanding, he is adamant that if you have to do something then you


may as well do it right. There is no simply "going through the motions" - genuine pride is taken in raising the bar every day in meeting and exceeding guests' expectations in accordance with the philosophy of redefining casual luxury for the guests. Troy says, "I really believe luxury is having everything you want (and more) while creating feelings and memories that last a life time. Luxury accommodation is providing consistently and at the highest quality the means for the guest to be able to achieve this". He likes to find out why a guest is staying, so he can then tailor the experience for them. Does luxury need to be expensive? Troy thinks it does to some extent, or you would have it all the time, and it would not be "luxury" anymore, but expensive is also "relative". "In our business and location we have a varying clientele, so it is important for us to sense the guests' needs, find out the reason for their stay and adjust the service for each guest". Making people feel special, but making this available for many people at varying price points; that is what Troy means by “casual luxury”. "We make people feel special no matter who they are, where they are from, what they are paying or the purpose of their visit". On arrival each guest is escorted to their room – a gesture which comes naturally to Troy as he appreciates that they have chosen to stay at the Lodge and feels that the least he can do is accustom them to the facilities, the local area and anything else they might need during their stay. Many of the Lodge's happiest guests are the regulars. Troy and Tomoko enjoy making them feel welcome; setting the room as the guest likes, bringing their favourite beverage and chocolate on arrival and even

using the same aroma pillow the guest selected on their first visit. It is the little touches that make people feel special – making the room they like available, setting the alarm clock on their preferred side of the bed and having their favourite Kohu Road ice cream in the freezer. For Troy, it is all about making guests feel special from the moment they arrive until wishing them a fond farewell at their departure. The rooms are immaculately presented and comfortable with various options regarding size, balconies and amenities to suit every guest. Enjoy a delicious cooked breakfast on your balcony while looking out over the harbour. The lodge is the perfect jumping off point for exploration of Auckland – the city itself is within easy reach via ferry or car. Wonderful day-trips to scenic locales such as Omaha Beach, Matakana, and the Brick Bay Sculpture Trail are highly recommended by Troy & Tomoko, and they can help guide you in making your holiday plans. Don't be surprised if one of the team offer to take you sight-seeing! All rooms are complete with a kitchenette reflecting the international trend for accommodation to be comfortable and like "being at home". Guests enjoy having the option of cooking and dining in if they wish. There is a wonderful local butcher and fruit and vegetable shop in the Manly Village, and you can collect your own fresh cockles from Shakespear Park and create your own "fresh as can be" local cuisine. If you are off to Auckland for business or pleasure and are looking for accommodation offering something truly special book yourself in at Whangaparaoa Lodge. It is an easy drive from Auckland airport and has stunning views over the harbour. Convenient, quiet and restful the Lodge is the perfect balance between the anonymity of a large hotel and the personability of a Bed & Breakfast. Head to Whangaparaoa Lodge to have your own tailored experience of casual luxury in the capable hands of Troy and Tomoko, who are looking forward to making your stay a very special one. Whangaparaoa Lodge also caters for small corporate meeting retreats up to 10 guests, fully catered and accommodated in a small meeting room and lounge.

Whangaparaoa Lodge

www.whangaparaoalodge.co.nz — 09 428 4666


Northland

NORTHLAND

Dune riding at 90 Mile Beach, Northland

ADVENTURE in the far north by Patti Brown A comfortable bus tour taking in the renowned 90 Mile Beach and Cape Reinga? Definitely. Flinging myself down a steep sand dune on a boogie board? No way! Well, those were my initial thoughts when I looked at things to do on a recent stay in New Zealand’s Far North.

122 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


P K

etricevich Dune Rider came highly recommended by their happy customers, so I booked myself in for their 8-hour all-inclusive tour and activity day. Talk about taking the stress out of entertaining friends and family; we were picked up at our accommodation in Kaitaia by shuttle courtesy of Dune Rider and dropped off at the “Ancient Kauri Kingdom”- the starting point of the day’s activities. “Ancient” indeed; as I wandered around taking in the beauty of the unique carvings and artwork all steeped in the history of the land, I learned that Kauri has been carbon dated at more than 45,000 years of age and is known to be the oldest workable wood in the world. There is no wastage of this valuable wood at Kauri Kingdom where they craft items from as small as egg cups to large pieces of furniture. Even the off-cuts are finished and sold as souvenirs. All too soon it was time to board our coach and for the real journey to begin: we were off to 90 Mile Beach. It was a unique experience to be propelled along the spectacular seemingly never-ending stretch of sand at low tide. The sand glistened and beautifully reflected the sky. Everyone turned their heads to take in the surrounding views that were breathtaking in all directions. Our driver, Wendy was a real story-teller, and her commentary was full of New Zealand history and knowledge of local points of interest.

Northland Kauri forest

GET

10% OFF

Cape Reinga Tour

Use the code

GTDRUT * Conditions Apply * Valid until December 2015

Buffet lunch is provided

ur Cape Rein nga and 90 Mile Beach Tou Locally owned and operated Dune Rider Kaitaia has a fun filled day tour designed for a memorable experience, exploring the far north. Features include Cape Reinga Lighthouse, 90 Mile Beach, Sand Boarding, Gumdiggers Park, Kauri Kingdom Shop.

Sit back and enjoy this unique Dune Rider experience

Daily Coach Tours from Kaitaia, Ahipara and Mangonui www.capereingatours.co.nz www.facebook.com/duneriderkaitaia (09) 408 2411 OR 0800 DUNE NZ

Conditions for discount: * To be booked direct (via phone or website) using promo code GTDRUT * Valid for Cape Reinga Tour Only * Subject to availability, weather and minimum numbers * Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer * For tours departing Kaitaia/Ahipara only

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 123


There was a brief stop that I appreciated as a chance to stretch my legs and take a few photos. The timing was spot-on as we caught a rare glimpse of the Te Aupouri wild horses thanks to Wendy’s local knowledge and keen eye. Back on board the coach and we were off to ride the Te Paki sand dunes! I was still of two minds as to whether I was going to have a go, but everyone else was so enthusiastic I got caught up in the moment. The boards and instruction are all part of the tour, so why not? First it was a thigh-burning workout to ascend the dunes.

The reward was in the total exhilarating rush I experienced flying back down the steep slope. Once at the bottom it was time to take some memorable photos of my friends’ rapid descents! Next stop: Cape Reinga the tip top of New Zealand and a place I had always wanted to see. The Cape is the location of the iconic lighthouse and international sign post that every Kiwi is familiar with. I was soon to discover that it was a very special place.

Our driver, Wendy told us that Maori believe the spirits of their loved ones (who have passed) depart from Cape Reinga. As I walked slowly along the path taking in the view of the bright blue of the Tasman Sea and the dark of the Pacific Ocean merging into one, I could feel a palpable spiritual energy. Although I did get my iconic photos of the lighthouse and signpost, the view of the sea and ocean and the feeling of something magical happening is what I took away with me.

On arrival, I was eager to get out and walk along the winding track to the lighthouse.

After exploring the Cape, I was ready to wind down on the coach as we headed to

Beach Lodge

Coopers Beach Holidays in winterless Northland

Luxury Beachfront Apartments

Owner/Host: Margaret Morrison • Phone 09 406 0068 • Email: info@beachlodge.co.nz • www.beachlodge.co.nz

124 Go Travel NZ · Winter 2015


Ancient Kauri, Gumdiggers Park

lunch at Waitiki Landing. Lunch is all part of the package, and it was a treat after such a stimulating few hours to sit down and chat about what we had seen and experienced. My friends were still buzzing about the dune ride and we excitedly compared photos we had taken. After a hearty and satisfying lunch, it was time to head to our final stop of the day at Gumdiggers Park. The historic Gumdiggers Park is an authentic gum field over 100 years old. I took the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of the early settlers of New Zealand; it was plain to see how tough life would have been for them as they prospected Kauri gum. What a hardy people they must have been to survive and thrive! The highlight for me was seeing and touching Kauri trees over 100,000 years old. The trees were likely felled by some pre-historic cataclysmic event and remained buried at the Gumdiggers site until they were unearthed by the gum prospectors. At the end of the day, I was very satisfied and pleasantly tired, so it was great just to sit back and be transported to our starting point. The winterless Far North is an optimal holiday destination, and there is no better way to explore it than on an air-conditioned and super comfortable Dune Rider Kaitaia

coach. The tour was an opportunity to take in sandy beaches, native flora and fauna, see local attractions and experience firsthand some iconic landmarks while being looked after all day by the Petricevich team who took the stress out of planning a group outing. When can we go again? GTNZ

Cape Reinga via 90 Mile Beach 4 x 4 day tours – a fun day with varied and stunning scenery. Step into the spiritual world of the Maori. Visit Te Rerenga Wairua (Cape Reinga), the departing place of the spirits and meeting of the Pacific Ocean & Tasman Sea. Share legends and stories from our local driver/guides. Travel along Ninety Mile Beach in our unique purpose built all terrian 4 x 4 bus/truck conversions – through the Te Paki quick sand stream and toboggan down the mighty giant dunes. Enjoy a picnic lunch and swim at beautiful Tapotupotu Bay with visits to the pure white silica sands at Rarawa Beach and Houhora Heads, with a stop at The Ancient Kauri Kingdom in Awanui. Locally owned and operated by Murray & Cheryl Harrison Tour suitable for all ages ; Adult $50.00, Child $25.00.

Phone 0800 22 73 73 Email: capetours@xtra.co.nz www: Harrisonscapereingatours.co.nz 114 North Road, Kaitaia. Northland. NZ www.gotravelnewzealand.com 125


American Tourister Prismo range ‘Takes on The World’ Since its inception by Sol Koffler in 1933, American Tourister has grown to become one of the most trusted and recognised brand names with a heritage that spans over 78 years. With the aquisition by Samsonite in 1994, the company continues its tradition of marrying superior quality and design at a great value, offering a wide selection of travel gear targeted at the masses. American Tourister caters for the cool traveller with its bright and bold Prismo collection. Prismo is the perfect answer for lightweight, chic design and practical features. With pearl gloss finish, this reflection composes a two-tone like stripe pattern under the light. • 360 degree multidirectional spinner wheels • Fully lined interior • TSA approved combination lock • Made of Polycarbonate (PC) and Arclonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), the Prismo range is lightweight sturdy construction. • There are 5 vibrant colours to choose from - magenta, neon green, royal blue, orange, purple. It’s also available in charcol. American Tourister Prismo comes in 55cm, 65cm and 75cm spinner cases. Visit www.americantourister.com.au to locate your nearest store. RRP: AUD $259-$299 www.samsoniteaustralia.com www.facebook/SamsoniteAustraliaNZ

For the best deals and up-to-date information about your next New Zealand destination visit

www.gotravelnewzealand.com Accomodation, Activities, Transport and so much more... Let us do all the holiday planning for you.

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