Travel New Zealand - Winter 2013 by Waterford Press Limited

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100% ROMANCE A 15 YEAR OLD WALKS THE MILFORD TRACK CANTERBURY GOLF

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Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s corner Editor in Chief Gary J Cody gcody@acornpublishing.biz +64 211 469909 Managing Editor David McEwen Golf Editor Steve Khatib Director of Business Development Kendall Twigden IT Manager Rob Andrews Content Manager Adrienne Zamor-Bongout Senior Designer Julie Gilbert Account Manager Alex Lynam 0800 226 762 Account Manager Morag Doig-Granito 0800 226 762 Sub-editor Darren Greenwood Australasian and International distribution by: Speedimpex Aust Pty Ltd Eight Point Distribution Pty Ltd e-Mag in-flight Jetstar Gordon and Gotch NZ NZ i-SITE Centres Auckland Office Level 2, 14 Viaduct Harbour Avenue Auckland CBD 1010 New Zealand Free call: 0800 226 762 International: +64 9 375 6057 Queenstown Office Level 1, 11-17 Church St, Queenstown, New Zealand New Zealand Free call: 0800 226 762 Melbourne Office 76 The Boulevard, Ivanhoe Victoria 3079, Australia Ph: +61 4 16 326 464 Published by

Kia Ora With Winter upon us it is again timely to feature our great ski fields and winter sports that will be in full flight starting with the Queenstown Winter Festival and culminating with the Winter Games in August. Expect to see some world class athletes at this years Games with FIS points to qualify for the Sochi Olympics on offer. Young Darcy French a school lad from Melbourne lets us feel what it is like to walk The Milford Track. A great read from a future travel writer. Well done Darcy from all the team at Travel NZ !! Romance is something that smothers us all at some time in our lives and we reveal some of the nicest locations and chapels in NZ and a guide on the process required to get hitched in New Zealand. From August it will be legal in NZ for same sex couples to tie the knot. Steve Khatib plays some of the finer Christchurch courses and gives a view of how these wonderful courses play. Christchurch is now making a huge comeback from the tragic time they experienced in 2011. And with direct flights from Perth looming soon the visitors will again be able to experience this wonderful destination. Enjoy our Winter edition either in the sky or on terra firma and a wonderful Spring edition is in the making.

ISSN 2200-5021 (Print) ISSN 2200-5013 (Digital) www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Hei konÄ mai

Contents EDITOR’S CORNER 6 winter games 8 olympic dreams 14 white gold 20 100% romance 28 Milford track 34 It worked for me 42 Golf 46 Regions NORTHLAND

AUCKLAND

THE COROMANDEL

TAUPO

ROTORUA

Taranaki

WELLIngTON

BULLER

MARLBOROUGH

WEST COAST

HURUNUI

TEKAPO MT COOK

QUEENSTOWN

CENTRAL OTAGO

100

WANAKA

104

DUNEDIN

109

FIORDLAND

115

SOUTHLAND

122

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LET THE

WINTER GAMES by Victoria Murray-Orr

BEGIN Eleven days, 26 events, 12 sports, 1,000 athletes, over 40 nations and an audience of millions – Winter Games NZ promises to be out of this world. Ranked as one of the top five snow sports events in the world, Winter Games NZ brings the world’s top snow sports athletes from all corners of the globe to compete against the stunning backdrop of New Zealand’s Southern Alps. From 15-25 August, as the best take on the best in ski racing to curling, snowboarding to free skiing, so New Zealand will showcase its winter playground to the world.

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n 2013 Winter Games NZ will showcase the best of winter sports over the international resorts of Coronet Peak, Snow Park NZ, Snow Farm and Cardrona within the picturesque Queenstown/Lake Wanaka region featuring alpine skiing, cross country skiing, snowboarding and free skiing and adaptive snow sports. The small town of Naseby in Central Otago, home of New Zealand curling, will host elite curling teams. All athletes will have one thing in mind – qualification for the 2014 Winter Olympics and for many, Winter Games NZ is the first stepping-stone to their Olympic dreams. With no less than four FIS World Cup events and three IPC World Cup events, Winter Games provides the ideal platform for New Zealand and international athletes to start this journey. World Cups are the highest level of international competition outside the Olympics. The three IPC World Cup events are in alpine slalom, giant slalom as well as para snowboard cross. The para snowboard cross World Cup first made an appearance at Winter Games NZ in 2011 when inspirational women’s world champion Amy Purdy (USA) competed, along with 2009 world champion, Tyler Mosher (CAN). The inclusion of two further IPC World Cups further cements Winter Games’ position as an event dedicated to delivering an elite sporting event to able bodied and adaptive athletes together. “We strongly believe no distinction should be made between any athletes that perform at the highest possible level, against the best in the world,” said Winter Games NZ CEO, Arthur Klap. “The last two Games have shown how well combining able bodied and adaptive athletes in the same competition on the same courses works and we continue to work for even greater opportunities for these athletes.”

The Winter Games NZ programme has been designed to provide a strong representation for all sports and to give athletes an opportunity to gain valuable competition experience in an elite environment prior to Sochi in 2014. 10

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Nzone Skydive

Paralympics New Zealand CEO Ross Halpin, said, “The inclusion of the IPC World Cups for Slalom, Giant Slalom and Para snowboard cross in Winter Games provides the opportunity for disabled athletes to perform in a fully inclusive event. It will be an opportunity for athletes to earn valuable qualification points necessary for consideration for selection for the Sochi 2014 Paralympic Games. Paralympics New Zealand hopes that the hosting of this event in New Zealand will inspire a generation of Kiwi athletes to be future Paralympians.”

This is particularly true for Kiwi athletes and Marty Toomey, CEO of Snow Sports NZ, said the event plays a vital role in New Zealand’s Olympic build-up. “The 2013 Winter Games are a critical part of our Olympic and Paralympic athletes buildup to the Sochi Winter Olympic and Paralympic Games which are now only months away. While it’s always good for athletes to be able to compete in front of their friends, family and supporters on home turf, there will be added spice to this year’s Winter Games with the freeski and snowboard halfpipe and slopestyle World Cups forming part of many nation’s Olympic qualification processes. Many of the 2013 northern hemisphere World Cups were affected by poor weather or a lack of snow meaning the 2013 Winter Games will attract most of the world’s best athletes as they chase Olympic qualification spots in the freeski halfpipe and slopestyle and snowboard slopestyle disciplines which are making their Olympic debuts in Sochi. Added to the fact the Southern Lakes is internationally recognised as a premier training destination, it points to 2013 being massive for snow sports in New Zealand.” Centred around the international resort towns of Queenstown and Lake Wanaka, Winter Games NZ makes the most of the world-class facilities at the surrounding mountain resorts. Cardrona Alpine Resort will host both World Cup halfpipe events in its Olympic standard pipe with the freeski competition set to feature New Zealand stars Jossi and Byron Wells. Cardrona also hosts the IPC Para-snowboard Cross World Cup plus the Continental Cup snowboard cross race. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Both slopestyle World Cup events take place across the valley at Snow Park NZ with its world-renowned terrain park. The training venue of choice for some of the biggest names in the sport including Shaun White, JP Auclair and Kim Lamarre, Snow Park NZ is the Southern Hemisphere’s only dedicated terrain park resort. Queenstown’s Coronet Peak is a renowned training ground for international ski teams and in 2013 hosts the IPC alpine slalom adaptive World Cups in addition to FIS Continental Cup slalom and giant slalom races. Completing the programme are a sprint cross-country skiing Continental Cup at Snow Farm and eight days of world-class competition at Naseby’s International Curling Rink in the Maniototo. Winter Games NZ CEO, Arthur Klap, said the level of competition expected at the Games was rarely seen in New Zealand.

What makes it even more remarkable is that all on-mountain events are FREE to watch! “Winter Games NZ is all about making snow sports accessible, not just to the athletes but also the general public. It’s not every day that you can get right up close to the action as the world’s best defy gravity in the half pipe or travel at death-defying speed through the slalom gates. What makes it even more remarkable is that all on-mountain events are free to watch! “With the timing just six months out from the 2014 Winter Olympics, Winter Games NZ provides the ideal platform to give the world a sneak preview of what’s to come in Sochi,” he said. “It also provides the athletes with the opportunity to compete at elite level at a world-class event, providing invaluable practice for when they are going for Olympic gold. There’s still no other like it and the Games provide an outstanding opportunity for New Zealand.”

Winter Games NZ 2013 Alternative Sports Programme August

Thu 15

Fri 16

Sat 17

Mon 19

Tue 20

Wed 21

Thu 22

Fri 23

Sat 24

Sun 25

GAMES OPENING

GAMES CLOSING

Queenstown

Wanaka

Alpine Giant Alpine Giant Slalom Slalom Men Woman

Coronet Peak

Sun 18

Cardrona

Freeski Halfpipe World Cup Qualifiers

Freeski Halfpipe World Cup Finals

Snow Park

Training Snowboard Slopestyle

Snowboard Snowboard Slopestyle Slopestyle World Cup World Cup Qualifiers Finals

Unofficial Weather Day

Naseby

Curling official practice

Curling Fours and Mixed Double

Snow Farm

Cross Country Sprint FIS CoC

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Unofficial Weather Day"

Curling Fours and Mixed Double

Unofficial Para SBX Training Day"

Para SBX World Cup & SBX Training Day

Curling Fours and Mixed Double

Weather Day

Alpine Slalom

Alpine Slalom Adaptive World Cup

Weather Day

Training Training Snowboard Snowboard SBX Training Snowboard Halfpipe Halfpipe Continental Snowboard Halfpipe / Unofficial World Cup Cup Halfpipe World Cup Weather Finals Qualifiers Day

Unofficial Weather Day

Freeski Slopestyle World Cup Qualifiers

Freeski Slopestyle World Cup Finals

Curling Fours and Mixed Double

Training Freeski Slopestyle

Curling Semis and Finals

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Athletes

chase Olympic By Charlene Mitchell

When the world’s best snow sports athletes arrive in New Zealand in August to take on the 2013 Winter Games NZ, the locals will be ready to welcome them. Furthermore, they’re looking forward to challenging for the top podium spots.

he Southern Alps are home to some of New Zealand’s most talented skiers and snowboarders; athletes who are currently ranked amongst the top in the world in their particular disciplines.

Freeski star Jossi Wells was born and bred in Wanaka and grew up skiing at Cardrona Alpine Resort. He took to skis from the age of two and showed exceptional talent from a very young age. Jossi has twice been named New Zealand Athlete of the Year – in 2008 and again in 2010. He is currently ranked number two on overall rankings for the AFP (Association of Freeskiing Professionals) World Tour and highlights this season have included a silver medal in men’s ski slopestyle at the X Games in Tignes, France and fourth place in Big Air at the prestigious Dew Tour iON Mountain Championships at Breckenridge Ski Resort in Colorado, in December 2012. With the freeskiing disciplines of halfpipe and slopestyle featuring on the Olympic schedule for the first time at the 2014 Winter Olympic Games in Sochi, Russia, the current focus for Jossi Wells is very much on racking up qualification points. The 2013 Winter

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“I love competing from home in Wanaka. It helps me relax and take my time. I know the venues like the back of my hand” — Jossi Wells

ure!

dible advent

What an incre

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Games NZ will form an essential part of his preparations as well as a rare opportunity to claim a home advantage. “I love competing from home in Wanaka. It helps me relax and take my time. I know the venues like the back of my hand,” he says. Jossi refers to the Southern Alps as his ‘backyard’ although, in reality, he now spends more time in the northern hemisphere than in New Zealand. For many years his lifestyle has involved a continuation of back-to-back winters as he travels the world training and competing as professional skiers. So far this year his schedule has taken him, amongst other places, to the US, Russia, Spain, France, Norway and Austria. Being away from home for extended periods of time certainly has its disadvantages but Jossi has the advantage of taking his family with him. Dad, Bruce, is his coach and he is now joined by younger brothers Byron, BeauJames and Jackson all of whom are proving to be talented skiers in their own right. Look out for ‘Team Wells’ in action this New Zealand winter. Another name to watch at the 2013 Winter Games NZ will be Dunedin-born ski racer Adam Hall. A gold medal winner in the slalom at the Winter Paralympic Games in Vancouver in 2010, Adam is viewed as the man to beat on the international adaptive ski racing circuit. Adam was diagnosed at birth with spina bifida - a disability that would typically leave you in a wheelchair. Adam says he’s “lucky” because he is mobile and able to walk and ski. He thrives on a constant diet of winter - his recipe for turning adversity into triumph. Adam spends his year racing on the World Cup circuit alongside the very best athletes and coaches in the world. From April to November he will base himself in Wanaka. Adam began snowboarding at the age of nine and admits to being a snowboarder at heart; however, such was his determination to represent his country at the Winter Paralympic Games, and with snowboarding not at that time a Winter Paralympic sport, he switched to skiing. A mere 18 months later he represented New Zealand at the 2006 Winter Paralympic Games in Torino. With talent and determination aplenty Adam was clearly destined for success and in 2010 he claimed the gold medal in standing slalom at the Vancouver Winter Paralympic Games. Adam has twice been named Snow www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Sports NZ Adaptive Skier of the Year, and received the ultimate accolade of Snow Sports NZ Athlete of the Year in 2008, 2009 and 2012. In 2011, he was made a Member of the New Zealand Order of Merit (MNZOM) in the Queen’s Birthday Honours, for services to sport. He was named Senior Sportsman of the Year at the Central Otago Sports Awards in April 2013. Like the Wells brothers, Adam has set his sights set on qualifying for Sochi in 2014 with the Winter Games in New Zealand in August a crucial opportunity to gauge progress and gain qualifying points. “I am really looking forward to the 2013 Winter Games NZ,” he says. “It will be a great opportunity for me to compete on the world stage in my own backyard which is such a rarity.” The 2013 Winter Games NZ will mark the first time a para alpine skiing world cup has been held in New Zealand and Adam Hall says “it is awesome to see New Zealand hosting such a high 18

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calibre event for adaptive skiing.” Meanwhile, ‘across the ditch’ the Australians are also eyeing up the Winter Games NZ as a valuable opportunity to test their mettle ahead of the 2014 Winter Olympic Games. Australian slopestyle skier, Anna Segal, is an exciting young talent who is making waves on the international freeski circuit. In the 2012-2013 northern hemisphere season the Melbourne-born athlete claimed podium spots at the Dew Tour, Copper Mountain Grand Prix and the World Cup in Switzerland. Anna spends a month skiing in New Zealand every year and says she loves it because “the landscape is gorgeous, the terrain is great and the people are awesome!” Anna says this year’s visit to compete at the 2013 Winter Games NZ will be very valuable. “I’m looking forward to the heightened level of competition at the Winter Games this year. It will be only six months out from the Winter Olympics. Athletes from all over the world will travel down to New Zealand in an effort to qualify and prepare for Sochi.”

Enjoying New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s White Gold By Mike Smith

This story focuses on New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South Island. Only 25% of kiwis live in the sparsely populated South Island so there are many times when you are the only vehicle on the long straight roads.

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first came into contact with snow when I was about 9 years old. Like many kiwis we visited a ski area in the family car and rented some toboggans. I remember clearly having an absolute ball. I grew up in a country town just north of the South Island’s largest city Christchurch. We were pretty much at sea level, so snow was a rare occurrence even though it did get very cold in winter. I must have been about 12 when it snowed in my hometown of Rangiora and I was fascinated. I just kept staring out the window in amazement looking at these perfectly formed snowflakes falling silently from the sky. Unlike rain, snow falls without any sound which makes it all the more mysterious to a young guy from the country (or anyone for that matter). I skied a few times at high school but I was a skateboarder and surfer, so when I read about this new thing called snowboarding, I knew straight away that this was what I had to do. In the early days, snowboards were pretty primitive devices, so it was hard work and not at all accepted by the conservative Ski Areas of the 1980’s. Snowboard technology moved quickly and very soon it was booming worldwide. Today skiing and snowboarding sit side by side and both are equally “cool” by the fashion conscious youth (and adults) attracted by the snow. I snowboarded for 20 years and have recently been focused on mastering skiing. I love both and am living proof that you are never too old to learn something new.

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I snowboarded for 20 years and have recently been focused on mastering skiing. I love both and am living proof that you are never too old to learn something new.

New Zealand is absolutely blessed with Snow Fields in both the North and South Islands. The North Island has two major areas and two smaller club fields. They are all on the volcanoes of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Taranaki. This story however, focuses on New Zealand’s South Island. Only 25% of kiwis live in the sparsely populated South Island so there are many times when you are the only vehicle on the long straight roads. There are three main snow regions in the South Island: Canterbury McKenzie Country Southern Lakes Most of the South Island has a mountainous spine and being a long narrow land mass means you are never too far away from the snow. Christchurch is the largest city and is very much in the rebuilding phase after the devastating earthquakes of 2010 and 2011. I spend about 1/3 of my working time in Christchurch and it’s hard to believe how a city that has been through so much can still be so vibrant and innovative.

Canterbury’s Tale How you tackle your South Island snow experiences depends very much on what you want to do and how much time you have to spend. Canterbury has two commercial and many smaller club Snow Fields within a ninety-minute drive from Christchurch. Closest is Porters. A small and very family friendly Snow Field just over an hour away from Christchurch. Long time Porters General Manager and local legend, Uli Dinsenbacher is proud of their reputation of good snow and great service. Porters 22

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is also a special place for me because it’s where I first saw and touched snow all those years ago. With terrain for all levels, it’s well worth a visit.

way my life turned out. If you are new to the snow – look forward to the moment. I sincerely hope it happens and it gives you as much pleasure as it has given me.

For the more adventurous, there is also a range of smaller Club Snow Fields near Christchurch. You can visit for the day or stay overnight for a unique on snow alpine experience.

MacKenzie Country

Canterbury’s major commercial Snow Field is Mt Hutt. It’s about 90 minutes from Christchurch and serviced by the funky Canterbury ski town of Methven. Methven has accommodation for all budgets and is about 30 minutes drive from Mt Hutt’s base area. Mt Hutt opens in early/mid June and gets good early snow from the southerly storms driven up from the Southern Ocean. It has a relatively long season going into October and terrain to more than meet the needs of any snow user from beginner to expert. Mt Hutt is also special for me. If you are already a skier or snowboarder you’ll appreciate what I’m talking about. It was where I had the “I’ve got it moment”! I remember so clearly the day when I linked a few turns on my snowboard. It was probably that moment that fundamentally changed the

We head a bit further south now into the McKenzie Country. This is an area of unbelievable mountain scenery including New Zealand’s highest peak, the 3754m Aorangi Mt Cook. It’s also a great snow region either as a trip breaker on the way from Christchurch to Queenstown and Wanaka or as a destination in it’s own right. You have a choice of three great small commercial Snow Fields perfect for families through to those of you who want some challenging terrain. Mt Dobson, Round Hill and Ohau are

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all wonderful places to visit. Round Hill has recently added the world’s longest rope tow with the country’s longest vertical of 785m. Ohau has arguably the most spectacular views of any Snow Field in New Zealand. Ohau has also won the best New Zealand Snow Field service award for so many years, most have lost count. Scenic flights, azure blue lakes and the globally significant Tekapo Dark Skies Reserve are just a few of the things you can experience in this wonderful part of New Zealand. Further South we head towards New Zealand’s international tourist mecca of Queenstown and the Southern Lakes District.

The queen of the resorts For many visitors to New Zealand, Queenstown is the only destination they know about as far as snow is concerned. And there is no doubt Queenstown is an absolute tourist mecca and has many similarities to the best winter destinations of Europe and North America. Many would say it has even more. However, Queenstown is only part of New Zealand’s amazing Southern Lakes District. More about that soon. Coronet Peak is the closest Snow Resort to downtown Queenstown. It’s New Zealand’s oldest resort established in 1949. It was the first to introduce snowmaking and now boasts truly international facilities. It’s state of the art snowmaking system with 200 plus “snow guns” means great on trail snow coverage for the whole winter season. Just a little further “out of town” is the 24

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two other Queenstown resorts of The Remarkables and Cardrona. Both offer variety and different experiences to really enhance your New Zealand snow holiday. First up, The Remarkables. Just about every photo of Queenstown you’ll see features the spectacular mountain range rising straight of Lake Wakatipu. This is The Remarkables. If you look really closely at these photos, you’ll see a road winding it’s way up the mountains. The Remarkables Snow Field is behind what you can see from downtown Queenstown. It has terrain to suit all abilities, a fantastic range of terrain park facilities for freestyle skiers and snowboarders and one more thing – kids ten and under get their Lift Passes absolutely free. We head now just a wee bit North to the other major part of New Zealand’s Southern Lakes District. Cardrona Alpine Resort has long held the title of NZ’s favorite family Snow Field. “Cardies” has for a long time focused on a massive range of kid friendly facilities and programs. That said, it is also the home some truly international class Terrain Park and Halfpipes to rival anything in North America and Europe. International freestyle skiing superstars Jossi and Byron Wells honed their talents at Cardrona and dad Bruce is still a patroller there. Cardrona has something for everyone. Cardrona is uniquely placed because it’s between Queenstown and Wanaka and easily accessible from both. Across the Cardrona valley is Snowpark and Snowfarm. Snowfarm is the home of Cross Country skiing in New Zealand and definitely something a bit different to try.

Clicquot in the Snow International alpine chic is set to arrive in New Zealand’s winter playground for a weeklong celebration. Clicquot in the Snow, part of the Veuve Clicquot season calendar has been held in resorts from Tignes to Aspen to Thredbo and for the third year running adds Queenstown to its list of international winter destinations. Clicquot in the Snow offers discerning locals and visitors to Queenstown a chance to paint the town yellow and toast the winter season with one of the world’s finest champagnes. Highlights will include Clicquot brunch sessions, après ski parties, exclusive degustation dinners, Veuve Clicquot tastings, a ticketed

fashion show by top New Zealand shoe designer Kathryn Wilson, a Clicquot snow bar on Coronet Peak and the mountain’s first Clicquot in the Snow night ski event. Clicquot in the Snow runs from Monday 29 July to Sunday 4 August, at various locations throughout Queenstown. The champagne house was established in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot, and began to thrive when Madame Clicquot took the helm 1805. For over 200 years, Veuve Clicquot has been inspiring the world to “Be Clicquot”: modern, audacious and premium quality. These values, set forth by the ground-breaking and extraordinary Madame Clicquot and maintained by generations of Clicquot drinkers, promise a remarkable experience with each sip of Veuve Clicquot. Today its eponymous Yellow Label continues to be one of the world’s most beloved champagnes.

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Photo: Miles Holden

Then there’s Snowpark! A purpose built Terrain Park and Halfpipe complex with onsite bar/restaurant and apartments – don’t be surprised if you rub shoulders with international snowboarding or skiing royalty like multiple Olympic and X Games Gold Medalist, Shaun White.

Wanaka winter wonderland The town of Wanaka is similar to Queenstown. It has a beautiful lake frontage and spectacular mountain views but that’s probably where the similarities end. Wanaka is it’s own town! Smaller than Queenstown but with all the accommodation and services you’ll ever need for your New Zealand winter holiday. People often ask me which one I prefer and I always have the same answer – both! Just out of Wanaka is Treble Cone. Many argue that “TC’s” views are the best in New Zealand. They certainly rival Ohau (just to the North). TC has long been known for great powder and some challenging terrain. That said, it also has excellent intermediate runs and a fantastic beginners area. The base lodge of TC sums up the architectural style of the modern Southern Lakes look and feel. Traditional schist rock and alpine timbers merged with modern alloys and glass make for a breathtaking mix maximizing the views.

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New Zealand also has a vast range of heli-skiing; snow mobiling and snow groomer accessed special places to find your perfect snow. I’ve tried many (not all) and as winter approaches, I’m itching to check out some more. I encourage you to embrace everything New Zealand has to offer in winter and definitely try something different. You’ll get to keep the “remember moment” forever.

About the writer: Mike Smith was Marketing Director of New Zealand’s two largest Snow Fields on the North Island’s Mt Ruapehu for 12 years from 1999 to 2011. In the last year he has embarked on a globally ambitious project called SnowiQ. It is about taking the snow message to a much wider audience in a fresh and inspiring way. For everything you need to know about the snow in New Zealand go to www. snowhq.com.

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100%

Romance By Minetta Hope Images Alpine Images

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New Zealand has gained a reputation as a world-class honeymoon destination and with its spectacular scenery, excellent choice of indoor and outdoor wedding venues, a wide range of romantic accommodation, delicious cuisine, as well as top photographers and other wedding services itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise that more and more couples from around the globe are choosing to get married in this spectacular destination.

estination weddings are increasingly popular as a way to combine your big day, honeymoon travel and a family get-together into one memorable event. Many couples also choose a destination wedding for financial reasons as a way of escaping the expense of large guest numbers and an expensive wedding reception. Having a wedding abroad also allows you more time to spend with your close friends and family over several days, and allows members from both families an opportunity to get to know one another in a relaxed, intimate setting. Whether it’s traditional or alternative, indoors or outdoors, religious or nonreligious, an intimate wedding for two or a special celebration with family and friends a destination wedding in New Zealand offers an idyllic setting and all the essential ingredients for an unforgettable destination wedding experience. Queenstown and Wanaka are particularly popular destinations for weddings and honeymoons in New Zealand for couples based overseas. Both are exciting summer and winter wedding destinations and offer access to things you would normally only expect to fine in larger cities – an excellent selection of hotels and other luxury and boutique accommodations; amazing wedding venues including wineries, historic churches and private lodges; excellent restaurants; and access to an array of top wedding professionals including some of New Zealand’s best photographers. Both Queenstown and Wanaka also offer stunning lake and mountain views and close places to fly to like the Remarkables, Cecil Peak, Coromandel Peak and Isobel Glacier for heli-weddings ensuring dramatic wedding photographs. There is also a huge range of activities to enjoy pre or post wedding.

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Other popular destination wedding venues and locations throughout New Zealand include: The Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo Situated in the beautiful Mackenzie Country, Lake Tekapo Village is an easy 3 hours drive from the South Island city of Christchurch or 3½ hours drive from Queenstown. The Church of the Good Shepherd is a quaint and unassuming but enormously romantic wedding venue. The Church sits literally only metre’s from the shores of the turquoise coloured, glacierfed Lake Tekapo and a large panoramic window behind the Church altar is deliberately clear to allow uninterrupted

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lake and mountain views. The Church of the Good Shepherd is perfect for couples planning a destination wedding that desire a stunning setting for their ceremony but still want some traditional elements to their wedding like being married by a Religious Minister. Because the Church building is small it is ideally suited for small, intimate weddings. Accommodation and catering is available nearby at a top class hotelPeppers Bluewater

Mountaintop & Glacier HeliWeddings - Aoraki Mt Cook National Park Aoraki Mt Cook offers a wedding experience second to none high up amongst the breath-taking beauty of New Zealand’s highest peaks and glaciers. The Aoraki Mt Cook National Park boasts New Zealand’s highest mountain, Aoraki Mount Cook, and there are 27 other peaks measuring over 3050 metres, and hundreds of others not far short of that – all making up the famous Southern Alps. Aoraki Mt Cook offers a unique opportunity to fly by helicopter to a spectacular mountaintop or glacier within the National Park and have your ceremony and photographs taken amongst the magnificent scenery of the Southern Alps whilst enjoying the absolute stillness and solitude of your surroundings.

Abel Tasman National Park Abel Tasman National Park is located at the top of the South Island of New Zealand, near the city of Nelson. It is New Zealand’s smallest national park and a very popular location for beach weddings due to its enchanting coastline of golden sand beaches, sculptured granite cliffs and acres of lush native bush. The easily accessible pristine beaches, hidden coves and calm turquoise waters provide a serene, magical backdrop for a relaxed and intimate beach wedding. Imagine sailing the pristine blue waters of Tasman Bay and saying your “I Do’s” on the shell-studded sand spit at Adele Island or on one of the many other golden sand beaches in the region.

Chapel by the Lake, Queenstown Chapel by the Lake is an enchanting, stone Wedding Chapel set amidst magnificent sprawling gardens and luxurious lawns just 15 minutes drive from Queenstown. The entire property overlooks Lake Hayes and the majestic alpine mountains of Queenstown. The chapel is set amidst 5 hectares of beautiful water gardens and vineyards, including ponds, waterfalls, historic drays and the stone ruins of Mayne’s Hotel, dating back to 1857. Built from century old church

beams, Otago Schist rock and handforged iron with ponds and waterfalls immediately adjacent, Chapel by the Lake seeks to provide a peaceful and tranquil setting for your New Zealand wedding. The magnificent views from both inside the chapel and surrounding grounds make for a multitude of superb photographic opportunities. Chapel by the Lake is part of Stoneridge Estate which also offers 5 star Luxury Lodge Accommodation at Stoneridge Lodge and a wedding reception venue.

The Coromandel The Coromandel Peninsula lies east of Auckland and is framed by native Pohutukawa trees on the western side, and its 400kms of coastline, fabulous white sandy beaches and magnificent coastal scenery offers limitless possibilities for a relaxed beach wedding. Some favourite beaches for weddings in the area include Cathedral Cove, Lonely Bay, Opito Bay and Otama Beach.

Mountaintop & Glacier HeliWeddings - Queenstown & Wanaka Heli-weddings are a popular choice for couples wanting a unique destination wedding in New Zealand with an unforgettable and exciting helicopter flight and a breath-taking mountain top or glacier wedding ceremony and photo shoot. Queenstown and Wanaka both offer an excellent choice of landing locations guaranteed to provide the most stunning alpine scenery and backdrop for your wedding ceremony and photographs.

Waiheke Island Waiheke Island is situated in the picturesque Hauraki Gulf just 35 minutes from Auckland by ferry. Waiheke Island boasts a subtropical climate with native forest reserves and 100 km of beautiful coastline making it the perfect place for an intimate wedding whether it is on one of the beautiful white sand beaches, at a luxury lodge or resort, or a romantic vineyard setting - the options are endless.

St Matthews in the CityAuckland This is one of New Zealands finest neo Gothic revival churches. It is right in the heart of Auckland and close to many wonderful accommodation options. Since the sad demise of many Christchurch landmark Churches this wonderful option is definitely worth considering if you do not want to take the risk of having a rainy outdoor wedding. Wedding blesings and soon to be same sex marriages are all ok in this glorious Christian building. The clergy are progressive and forward thinking and have a wonderful warm welcome for any genuine couples looking to publicly wish to show their love and have it sealed in a Christian manner. 30

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Nuptials ..... in scenic New Zealand

Organising your New Zealand Wedding from Overseas The logistics of organising a wedding abroad can seem daunting but if you are keen on making the majority of arrangements yourself then these days a quick Google search and a simple click of the mouse and you will find many New Zealand wedding vendors including Wedding Venues, Marriage Celebrants, Photographers, Florists, Hairdressers and Make-up Artists advertising online.

Whether it is….. ….. a vineyard wedding in the romantic Marlborough Sounds ..... a beautiful Church in scenic Lake Tekapo ..... a snowy mountain top in stunning Queenstown

Alternatively, hiring a Destination Wedding Planner based in New Zealand can be a smart move and will often go a long way towards eliminating some of the potential stress associated with trying to plan a wedding at a distance. An experienced wedding planner will be able to advise you on the legal documentation required for a wedding in New Zealand, will keep a handle on the various services and people who will be involved in your wedding and can deal with any complications that arise, leaving you to enjoy the most important day of your life.

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All inclusive packages available on request

Aside from the spectacular scenery New Zealand has to offer, as well as world-class photographers, wedding venues and locations, New Zealand is a really easy and hassle-free place to get married. You will need a valid New Zealand Marriage License, a Marriage Celebrant and two witnesses. Anybody can marry in New Zealand, as long as they are legally free to marry. Under current New Zealand law this means that: • A marriage may be entered into from August 18 2013 couples of the opposite or same sex. • They are not already married or in a civil union with a person other than the person they will be marrying (or if they have been married, the marriage has been dissolved by a court of law). • They are old enough (16 or over, although parental consent is required if either party is 16 or 17 years old).

• They are not closely related by blood, marriage, civil union or adoption. Details of these “prohibited” marriages appear on the form ‘Notice of Intended Marriage’, which is used to apply for a marriage licence. To get a New Zealand Marriage License you will need to complete a ‘Notice of Intended Marriage where both parties ordinarily resident outside New Zealand’ application form. Information that is required for completing this form includes: • Where you intend to get married. • If you are planning to get married outdoors you should also choose an alternative venue in the event that the weather prevents you from marrying at your primary venue or location. • Date of marriage. • The full name of the Marriage Celebrant who will officiate at your wedding ceremony. In New Zealand you must be married by an appointed Marriage Celebrant. This may be a Registrar of Marriages (if you are planning a Registry Office wedding), an Independent Marriage Celebrant, a Minister of a church or a person connected with an approved organisation. • Full names of the Bride and Groom; Full Date of Birth; Place of Birth; Usual Occupation, Profession or Job; Usual Residential Address; Mother & Father’s Full Names. If either of you have been married or in a civil union before, and the marriage or civil union has been dissolved, you may be asked to produce evidence of the dissolution (e.g. Divorce/Dissolution Order). If your previous spouse or partner has died you do not have to produce evidence of their death, but you will have to give the date of death on the ‘Notice of Intended Marriage’. You will need to send the completed ‘Notice of Intended Marriage’ form with the required fee to the Registrar of Marriages Office closest to the place where you want to have the ceremony ensuring that it arrives at least a week before you intend to have the ceremony. The ‘Notice of Intended Marriage’ includes a statutory declaration and as part of completing the application form for

a New Zealand Marriage License at least one of you needs to appear in person on a weekday before your wedding at the Registrar of Marriages Office where you sent your ‘Notice of Intended Marriage’ to sign a the statutory declaration confirming that both parties are free to marry each other and that all the details supplied on the form are correct. You will then be able to collect the Marriage License, together with the ‘Particulars of Marriage’ forms, which you will sign on your wedding day. Alternatively the statutory declaration can be signed and witnessed at a New Zealand Consulate, Embassy or High Commission or any Commonwealth Representative in your home country. There is also an office of the New Zealand Department of Internal Affairs in Sydney and London. In general New Zealand Marriage documents are recognized worldwide. However, if you do not live in New Zealand, you should check with the authorities in the place where you normally live to see if there are any special steps you must take or rules that apply when you marry in New Zealand. A Standard New Zealand Marriage Certificate is recognized as legal proof of marriage in Australia, the UK, USA and Canada. Countries like Germany, Belgium, Denmark, Hong Kong, and the Netherlands will require an Apostille and countries like China, Russia, Singapore and the Philippines will require that the documents are verified by the relevant Embassy or Consulate-General here in New Zealand. If you have hired a New Zealand-based wedding planner to assist you with your wedding arrangements then arranging your New Zealand Marriage License is even easier. Your wedding planner can file the completed ‘Notice of Intended Marriage’ form on your behalf, you would then appear in person at the Registrar of Marriages Office where your application was filed on a weekday, make the required statutory declaration to complete the application, uplift your marriage documents and then get married that same day if you wish. There are competent wedding planners, celebrants and clergy in New Zealand that are more than happy to assist you with your “big day” plans and make it as easy and stress free as possible. Trying to organize your wedding or blessing from afar is very risky as local knowledge is priceless when this important celebration is undertaken. New Zealand certainly 100% romantic with all the trimmings. Sunsets, photo locations to die for,romantic accommodation, private, safe and memorable. If it’s good enough for Hollywood Stars to marry and honeymoon in New Zealand it is certainly good enough for you.

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Milford Track through the eyes of a very young man Images and Story by Darcy French

Ever since poet Blanche Baughan coined the well known moniker in 1908, the Milford Track has captivated generations of eager hikers or trampers as theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re locally known. The 35-mile trek through the world heritage listed Fiordland National Park is renowned for its many snow-capped mountains, tumbling waterfalls, beechwood forests, trout-choked rivers and glacial valleys. 34

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t begins with a ride with Tracknet from Queenstown and a cruise across the stunning Lake Te Anau, New Zealand’s second largest lake. The track starts at Glade Wharf where a sign indicating the start of the track and a long drop toilet are all that is to be seen. My father and I were very keen to get into the three-mile walk, the shortest of the four days. As we meandered our way through the lichen covered beech groves with the Clinton river beside we arrived at the Glade house, where the guided walkers or “Richies” as they’re affectionately known spend their first night. Guided walkers live the high life on the Milford Track having food, bedding and warm rooms provided every night at a luxury price. We opted to stay in the more basic DOC (Department of Conservation) huts that are maintained with gas and basic amenities in the peak season that runs from October through to late April. Booking these huts in advance is necessary as they only allow 40 walkers per night to maintain the track’s condition. Clinton Hut is the first of three of these huts we would be staying in over the next three days. It is tucked some two hundred meters away from the river on a natural wetland surrounded by beech

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trees laden with a plethora of moss and lichens. A monstrous waterfall rumbles in the distance, replenished by the overnight rains. The hut is divided into two bunkrooms and a communal dining and cooking hall linked by a large centre patio and boardwalk. Each room houses ten bunks with no beds to spare. Having arrived on the earlier boat, Dad and I got bottom bunks; a luxury we would discover over the next couple of days making it worth the early morning starts once hikers legs set in. The DOC rangers that maintain these huts work on an eight days on, six days off cycle throughout the peak season. Their job is to maintain their portion of the track and general maintenance of the hut. Each night they also present to the walkers the following day’s weather and track conditions. Our ranger was Peter, an introverted man who was passionate about the track and all of its plants. The mood amongst the group was an excited one, really getting into the track the next day. The weather was looking like we might be in for a wet day, which is the case over 200 days a year in Fiordland. We were

to travel just shy of 16 kilometres up the Clinton valley to the base of the famous McKinnon Pass. Once Peter wrapped up his presentation in which there are quite a few surprises that I won’t spoil for you, most of the group were off to bed hoping to get a restful sleep.

A snowy surprise By 8:30 the next morning I was already well into the day’s walk. Awaking to a fresh dumping of snow on the mountains was a beautiful surprise to wake up to. The sky was blue with not a cloud in sight and the river was flowing strongly after heavy overnight rains. As the track wound its way up the valley sounds of the rich New Zealand bird life were all around, including the famed and extremely rare Whio. We enjoyed a morning snack beside the majestic hidden lake, a short two-minute walk off the track at the basin of one the many waterfalls we passed throughout the day. The Hidden Lake is very aptly named, hidden off the track yet providing one of the most amazing views of the hike. As the waterfall crashes into the lake behind, you

“The finest walk in the world has exceeded my expectations in nearly every way possible”

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are surrounded on two sides by dauntingly steep snow capped mountains running the length of the valley growing steeper and larger until they come together at McKinnon Pass, our challenge tomorrow. The valley is beautiful in its own right, lush thick forest leads into open prairie lands where avalanches of past have destroyed the forest. The Clinton River provides the centerpiece, crystal clear open waters quickly turn into ferociously beautiful rapids at a moments notice. Trout swim by, seemingly unconcerned by human presence and Kea, the smartest parrot in the world, soars overhead. As we approached the end of the day’s walk, Mintaro Hut, the terrain became steeper and more treacherous for the unsuspecting hikers ankles. Mintaro Hut sits over 600 metres above sea level, a 400 metre rise from Clinton. Situated at the base of McKinnon Pass, the view is a spectacular panorama of steep cliff faces almost completely surrounding bar the narrow valley where we had come from. The hut itself is a two-storey building, with bunks on both levels, level one being shared between

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Milford Track was the journey of a lifetimeâ&#x20AC;?

Crossing Lake Te Anau

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two small bunkrooms and the communal kitchen. The second night was much like the first, once people had settled in and gotten something to eat, conversation was the order of night. After dinner, hut ranger Katie informed us we might be in for bad weather tomorrow, despite the fantastic weather today. The walk tomorrow was tough, rising to over 1100 metres above sea level before dropping back down to a mere 100. Dad and I planned to rise early and arrive at the pass just in time to see sunrise.

Magnificent McKinnon Pass Unfortunately, things didn’t exactly go to plan and we got off a bit later than we’d planned, by the time we had zigzagged our way up what seemed like an eternity of steep and rocky paths with our packs on our backs we arrived. McKinnon Pass is the most serenely beautiful place I have ever been and I say with the utmost confidence I will go back. It comes upon so quick that your breath is taken away as the mountain face disappears revealing two mesmerizing valleys stretching as far as the eyes can see, so far down

no man or woman dares stray to close to the edge. Towers of rocky, snowy mountains jut out on either side, rising hundred of metres above the pass. The silence is enchanting, watching two worlds completely oblivious to the other, separated for millions of years by the piece of earth I now stand on, it is an amazing feeling. The pass itself compromises of a memorial for Quintin McKinnon, the pioneer of the Milford track who lost his life in 1892 on Lake Te Anau. The only other man-made structures are a few signposts and paths to some of the better viewing points. After we’d taken what must have been well over 200 photos and videos, we continued on to Dumpling Hut. Many people talk about the walk up to McKinnon Pass as the most spectacular part of the track, but the descent is just as amazing. Walking along the exposed mountainside before plunging into extremely dense, wet and stunning forest with a tumbling river beside, it is easy to believe you are in another world.

Fiordland’s Track & Transport Specialists for 25 Years Queenstown, Te Anau, Milford Sound, Invercargill connections to Milford, Kepler & Routeburn Tracks

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”McKinnon Pass is the most serenely beautiful place I have ever been”

with us everybody was eager for a great last night’s sleep. The last day was a 17 km hike through to Sandfly Point where a boat transports us to Milford Sound. Boats depart at 1pm and 2pm so leaving early is important, especially for slower walkers.

The delights of Dumpling Hut

Although the fourth day is the longest of the track, it certainly felt like the shortest. Whether that was due to the excitement of the hot shower waiting at Queenstown or the fact the terrain was much friendlier the miles flew by. Along the banks of the Arthur River the track winds across swing-bridges and past the majestic and powerful Mackay Falls, my favourite falls of the entire walk. As the track approached its end, the river grew wider and the snowy mountains disappeared into the distance, replaced by yet more steep jagged peaks covered in dense rainforest from bottom to top unlike the mountains at higher altitudes. The last 3km winds along a smooth and wide track created by a prison labour gang, a beautiful way to finish the walk.

By the time you have made the almost one thousand meter descent to Dumpling Hut, even the most experienced hikers feet are in need of a rest. We had been fortunate enough to have another sunny day, warmer as well now we had dropped in altitude. Many of the braver hikers, not including myself, made the plunge into the freezing river at the swimming hole a few minutes walk from the hut. I was content watching the reactions as they clambered to get out as fast as their bodies would take them. Our third and final night of the hike had come very quickly and everybody had bonded very well. The level of conversation was vibrant in contrast to the last two nights and everybody was sharing stories about the days trek and experiences of past. By the time our last hut ranger Shelley had finished her talk

River route return to Queenstown

Timing your arrival at Sandfly Point is crucial, too early and you’ll be driven mad by the creatures that give the point its name. Too late and you’ll miss the boat that is the only form of travel back to

civilization. The end of the track is quaintly marked by a small DOC sign and a small building. Soon will move onto the short 500 metre walk to the jetty where the boat departs. The short boat ride is certainly not a time for your camera to die just short of time to see of the most beautiful views in the world. Towering mountains rise straight out of the water surface and huge falls crash into the rich blue water. The sound has lived up to its name and more. It is truly unlike anywhere else on earth. The same thoughts are going through my head as I step off the boat about the track. “The finest walk in the world” has exceeded my expectations in nearly every way possible, every view raising the bar on the last. The scenery is unrivalled in New Zealand and I have yet to find a place so magical anywhere else on earth. The hiking was challenging, hugely rewarding and the quality accommodation and facilities provided by the Department of Conservation made the experience nearly faultless. The Milford Track was the journey of a lifetime and maybe fitting I give my son, one day, a similar great experience. Footnote; Darcy French is a 15 year old schoolboy who attends Eltham College in Melbourne.

The Clinton Valley

“Although the fourth day is the longest of the track, it certainly felt like the shortest. Whether that was due to the excitement of the hot shower waiting at Queenstown or the fact the terrain was much friendlier the miles flew by” 40

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IT WORKED FOR ME By Gary Cody

My pilot for the trip was Scott a fantastic guy with great knowledge of the area andinformation as to interesting geography and terrain was willingly shared.

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aiting on my call from Heliworks to confirm my flight my anticipation peaked and when the call came my heart rate increased at the exhilaration of flying into the Earnslaw Burn was immense. I have not been in that area for many years and fond memories of hiking flooded back. And the only operators in this region that have license to fly in there is Heliworks. A short journey to Queenstown Airport and a brief in Heliworks hanger was enough to have me scratching the floor like a pony ready to bolt. One of the new Squirrel AS350 B3 machines is taken from the pristine hanger alongside the most modern fleet of machines in the region. Not only do they have choppers in Queenstown, there are machines in Te Anau that offer explorative trips around Southern Fiordland and further afield. HeliSkiing, Weddings and flights into Milford Sound with wonderful snow landing are on an extensive menu of options. Mt Cook also has the Heliworks brand operating from the Aoraki Mt Cook airport onto breathtaking locations and even as far as crossing the Main Divide to see the great West Coast Glaciers. Heliworks does not only operate with the latest machinery but also a lineup of very experienced pilots. With over 30,000 hours of flying Richard (Hannibal) Hayes

leads the charge. Just returned from a contract in Antarctica Richard would have to rate as, arguably, New Zealand’s top pilot. Even a television documentary has just been produced on his feats. Richard Mills, General Manager at the Queenstown branch, is not far behind with over 13,000 hours. And has experience in many aspects of flying. Not only do Heliworks fly travellers and tourists they are also the chosen company to fly rescue and Medi Vac emergencies. There is always a machine in the Queenstown hangar ready and waiting for a distress call. Mountain Rescue is unfortunately a concern for New Zealanders as many people arrive in New Zealand feel it is just a tramp in the hills when our often unpredictable weather will change within minutes and catch a tardy traveller off guard. Then it is down to pilot and helicopter to get emergency crew on site. My pilot for the trip was Scott a fantastic guy with great knowledge of the area and information as to interesting geography and terrain was willingly shared. The big Squirrel roared into life and it wasn’t long before we swept of in the direction of The Earnslaw Burn. The Lake was calm and flat to the west and turned towards The Moonlight saddle and the spectacular Shotover Gorge home to many gold miners in the 1800’s . Tailings are still evident from those halcyon days.

“The best thing about the professionals at Heliworks is their professionalised flights tailored to your requirements and exceeding your expectations”

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It was then over the Richardson Mountains where Mt Earnslaw (Pikirakatahi) stands in all its glory. Towering over The Rees and Dart Valley, the peak dominates the northern arm of Lake Wakatipu and the small hamlet of Glenorchy. Flying past the blue ice of the hanging glacier is a treat as I had never realized the colour from below. However, from the air one can really appreciate its wonderful natural form and colour. The small rock bivvy I sheltered in years ago in a storm called Crows Nest is visible from the helicopter as is the stunning Lennox Falls. It was then time to put down in the Earnslaw Burn and out with the delicious picnic lunch and a bottle of bubbles. Unfortunately Scott could only look on as he savored his bottle of H2O . Cheese and local wine is always a delight in this area and Heliworks went about it in stylish fashion. This is one of the many good things Heliworks will do. The best thing about the professionals at Heliworks is their professionalised flights tailored to your requirements and exceeding your expectations. After a nice wander around in familiar terrain and more pictures it was back on board and we lift off and swoop toward Lake Wakatipu again and across the Humbolt Mountains. We follow The Greenstone Valley toward Mt Nicholas Station, another exclusive location, and again touchdown for some breathtaking views, then back to Glenorchy and into the Fiordland National Park. Familiarising myself with this God given landscape from a near on new helicopter a competent pilot and a fab lunch really gave me goose bumps. It was then up and away and back to the hangar at Queenstown. This Company is in Travel New Zealand’s TOP FIVE picks for activities and attractions. Anyone choosing Heliworks will really have the 5 star experience that the region offers. Thanks Heliworks.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Anyone choosing Heliworks will really have the 5 star experience that the region offersâ&#x20AC;?

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Back in the swing around Canterbury By Steve Khatib

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picked up my Audi thanks to the good folks at Smartcars and took the scenic drive up to Christchurch. I had a day free to myself and wanted see some of the South Island’s scenery so allowed myself about seven hours for the drive past the gorgeous Lakes Pukaki and Tekapo to the Terrace Downs Resort. I was greeted by villas set in rolling alpine countryside with wild tussocks and Mount Hutt as a backdrop. The Terrace Downs Resort is a high country mountain treat set on the Rakaia River at the foot of the Southern Alps; it also has views that stretch across the spectacular Rakaia Gorge. Activities include shooting, archery, jet boating, horseback riding, skiing, fishing and its very popular day spa. However, I was here for the golf! Yes, Terrace Downs is rated in the top Kiwi golf courses and I couldn’t wait to play it again. I was also looking forward to a restaurant at the resort that I had heard so much about; Hunters Steak House. I had certainly worked up an appetite after the drive up from Otago, so I really enjoyed my rib eye steak which the waiter served me on a sizzling hot plate. Medium rare local steak was definitely a must for a meat lover and complimented by a glass local wine I was ready to retire for the evening.

I headed to Queenstown to visit the brand new swish Travel New Zealand headquarters for the first time. My Jetstar flight from Melbourne made the spectacular decent into Queenstown with the snowcapped Remarkables in full view. Yes, I was definitely impressed with TNZ’s new set up in Queenstown and after a couple of days work, I relished the opportunity to get out of the office and onto the links!

The next day I was greeted by fine sunny weather and crisp alpine air, as I warmed up my swing for the challenge ahead. The first hole is a great par five to start with and a good drive as I so luckily managed. It puts you in a good position to reach the green in two. I didn’t get home for two though; however I did start with a birdie after getting up and down from beside the green. The parkland front nine is quite contrasting to the dramatic links style back nine. For mine it sets up the back nine where the course really shows its teeth. The array of lakes, tussocks and breathtaking views of the Rakaia River and gorge. There are, of course, many risk reward holes and none more than the signature 16th hole. A short par three of no more than 110 metres with a premium being placed on keeping the ball low out of the breeze and of course picking the right club. However, as great a hole as the sixteenth is, this course is more than just one hole with many stretches of consecutive holes that demand great tee shots but also reward them with birdie chances. The Championship par 72 layout was

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Russley Clubhouse

I was paired with some interesting members the next day, which informed me all about the history of the second oldest club in the country, founded in 1873. Over more recent times, the course has been modified to restore it to its former style by architect Peter Thompson. The unique feature about this course was its first five holes prior to crossing the road and its Later that day I made the comfortable closing holes back to the clubhouse. The forty-five minute drive east to Christchurch, subtle undulations in the fairways were ‘The Garden City’ for my hotel in the city a deceptively challenging element. An centre. I was impressed with the amount example of this was my favourite hole of development that has occurred and the the par four fourteenth, where a decision friendly locals, one wouldn’t think that the needs to be made off the tee as to hit your locals had experienced some of mother nature’s worst possible challenges only a few drive on the high side of the fairway and play a longer shot into the green from a years earlier. I settled in for the night early, as I had a 7.30 tee time the next morning at level height, or hit closer to the green and the historic Christchurch Golf Club at Shirley, play an awkward uphill approach. For the record, I found out the hard way that the fifteen minutes north of town. longer way was best. Also there are tiers and false fronts on many of the greens that place a premium on selecting the correct club to be hole high, or have to putt up or down hill on to the correct level as the hole. excellently manicured and provides a test yet also an enjoyable round for all standards of players. It is really hard to believe that the course is only just over ten years old, as it sits into the natural landscape like it always belonged; at the foothills of the Canterbury Alps .

Christchurch Golf Course

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16th. Terrace Downs

Racecourse to try my luck on the gee gees. Much lighter in the pocket after a late night and a day at the races, I must say I was feeling a little tired the next day. However, the thought of playing at Russley Golf Club and a strong espresso at Aikmans in Merivale got me going.

After my round I ventured into the clubhouse for a tour of the memorabilia donated by the club’s patron Sir Bob Charles. Charles is New Zealand’s most famous professional golfer and launched his highly successful pro career after winning the club championship at the club.

Russley is a relatively flat tree lined parkland course that has hosted many big professional events of the years including the New Zealand Open. Coupled by its proximity to the airport, relaxed atmosphere and easy going members it has a strong appeal to golfers of all levels. From a golf course layout perspective I really enjoyed the par five sixth and par three seventh holes that require a precise approach shot to be played into large undulating greens or find water hazards waiting to gobble up your ball. I did manage to avoid the drink and par both these holes.

After a very enjoyable mornings golf, I headed off to the famous Riccarton Park

I found the course to be very well maintained with firm, true putting surfaces

and really enjoyed this fun golf course. For my last night in the Land of the Long White Cloud I checked into The Peppers Clearwater Resort. Doing it in style at Clearwater was a great way to end my trip, as I had magnificent accommodation right on the course. So, after a lovely meal at The Lakes Restaurant I was ready to tackle the course the next day.

“Doing it in style at Clearwater was a great way to end my trip”

With eighteen holes ahead of me, I was glad I stayed at Clearwater, being only five minutes from the airport to catch my afternoon flight back home. The layout has streams that flow into seven lakes located throughout the course; hence it’s the ‘Clearwater’. A gentle start to the course didn’t last long with the par four third being a gem of a short par four hole. Bunkers right and left required me to lay up with a hybrid off the tee, and then an accurate high short iron approach is required to an undulating green. I managed to achieve all this until I undid all my good work by taking three putts on the green. The ninth is a demanding par three that brings you back to the clubhouse. I needed to hit a solid four iron and avoid the water in front of and to the right of the green. I was extremely happy with par as I went quietly to the back nine. The back nine can be summed up in a

Clearwater Golf Resort

word. Tough. It has water on almost every hole, so if you are not driving it straight: look out! This is an example of a premium finishing hole, it has bunkers right and water left intimidating the golfer visually off the tee. The green has two levels, which makes putting tricky as well; so a par here is a great score. Many of the New Zealand Opens and other major events have been decided by drama on this hole. Clearwater was by far my most challenging Canterbury course and my three over par 75 felt like a two under par 70. So, I made the short trip to the airport to catch my Jetstar flight home direct to

Melbourne, feeling inspired and satisfied with another unique Kiwi golf experience and can thoroughly recommend Canterbury for great golf courses and friendly people.

Steve Khatib is an internationally respected authority on all matters of golf technique and training, owing to his affiliations through many years spent with the world’s leading golf minds in the USA. His achievements include accreditation as a PGA AAA Specialist Coach and a Master Golf Club Fitter. He is one of a select group of international instructors to hold a Masters Degree in Golf Stroke Engineering and was awarded the PGA Teacher of the Year. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

of the vines

alli is the personal vocation of pioneering Otago winemaker, Grant Taylor. Grant’s name is synonymous with Otago Pinot Noir. He has been crafting wines in the region since 1993 when there were only 20 hectares planted - today there are over 1700. Grant’s accomplishments are well known in the wine world and he is credited with winning the trophy for Best Pinot Noir at a major international wine competition in London an unprecedented three times – a feat achieved by no other winemaker in the world. During the past 20 years he has made the first wines for a number of iconic Otago wineries, but now the serious focus is on his own creation, Valli. Established in 1998 and named after his Great-Great Grandfather, Giuseppe Valli, who immigrated to New Zealand from and Italian winemaking background, Grant founded Valli with the aim of creating true representations of Otago’ssubregions with unflinching intensity and purity. This was also a first for the region – no one had attempted to capture, let alone master the developing subregional plot that has now begun to unfold as the next exciting chapter in the Otago wine story. Valli, based around the close-planted estate vineyard in Gibbston, also produces Pinot Noirs from Bannockburn, Bendigo and another from Otago’s exciting new subregion, the Waitaki Valley. Valli also produces a dry Riesling from 32-year-old vines in the Alexandra basin and a botrytised Riesling, Dolce Vita, from Lowburn fruit. With holistic attention to detail in both the vineyard and winery, these wines both reflect and translate the sites they evolve from.

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GRANT TAYLOR UNIQUELY VALLI Valli produces only top quality subregional wines: No blending. No inferior Second Labels. Valli’s vineyards are planted at an average of 4,000 vines per ha, which is almost twice the national average, meaning each vine has half as much fruit to ripen, and is able to do so with uniformity and consistency. The vines are mercilessly hand-thinned, with all imperfect fruit being dropped, and are then cropped at less than 1kg per vine to ensure the desired concentration and ripeness. That quality-first philosophy is carried into the winery where gravity is used to transfer the grapes, rather than pumps. This ensures there is no abrasion of seeds releasing course tannins, and no oxidation of the wine. After fermentation, the grapes are hand shoveled into a basket press, a traditional method which gently presses the grapes only once. Basket Presses are increasingly being used by serious wine producers around the world. Although the yield is lower, the wines produced are of much higher quality with less sediment and no extraction of bitter tannins. Consequently, Valli’s Pinot Noirs are bottled with as little manipulation as possible: they are neither fined, nor filtered. The result is a wine that truly represents it’s “Terroir”. Valli Vineyards is located at 2330 Gibbston Highway, RD 1, Queenstown 9371, and is open by appointment only. For more information, visit www.valliwine.com.

Born in Kurow, North Otago, Grant was educated at Lincoln College in Canterbury. In 1980, he helped establish Pine Ridge Winery in Napa, California and worked there as assistant winemaker until 1986. In 1987, he helped build another Napa winery, Domaine Napa, and worked there as head winemaker until 1993. Lured back to Otago in 1993 by the promise of large and plentiful trout, clean air, fewer people and the potential he saw for Otago wines, Grant signed on as winemaker for Gibbston Valley Wines. As a pioneering winemaker in Otago, he has produced the first vintages for many of the region’s wellknown labels including Bald Hills, Carrick, Felton Road, Hawkshead, Mondillo, Mount Edward, Mt Difficulty, Peregrine, Rockburn (aka Hay’s Lake), Thyme Hill and Van Asch. Grant has kept his American ties along the way, helping to establish Oregon’s renowned Pinot Noir producing winery, Archery Summit, in 1995. He has consulted there for many vintages since. In 2006, Grant left Gibbston Valley to concentrate solely on Valli. Having now completed over 40 vintages, he looks forward to the next 40 and how much knowledge they will bring in helping to understand Otago’s potential.

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Northland

AN (UNSPOILT) WALKERS PARADISE

Northland

Jimmy Blair takes the family to the ‘Undiscovered North’ and discovers many fine walks, bays and warm and hospitable people.

e had heard that the Whangarei district was a bit of an undiscovered paradise in Northland. Being eager walkers and relishing any opportunity to get outdoors, we were keen to check it out. The rumours weren’t wrong! The area is spectacular and has a lot to offer bush walkers, along with having a wider range of other activities that would suit many people looking for some rest and relaxation. Deciding to make a long weekend of it, we headed north from Auckland. Turning right at Tomorata (about 1.5 hours from Auckland) we joined part of the Twin Coast Discovery Highway (look out for the highway signage that features a dolphin in a wave). We understand this is

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about 800kms in total and loops around Northland taking in both coasts and some of the majestic scenery of the area. A must do adventure for another time. Wanting to check out a walk at Mangawhai Heads, we booked into the local campground on the stunning waters edge. We’d heard the walk here was one of the best in the area and provided spectacular views of the rugged coastline. The beach and cliff-top walk took in lush green pastures and bush areas, with some beautiful native flora. The track is great high quality and about five kilometres, so took us about 2.5 hours (a little hard going in places). The views were outstanding, taking in Bream Head to the North, the Hen and Chicken Islands and all the way down to the

Hauraki Gulf (towards Auckland). Two highlights were ‘the giant staircase’, a natural amphitheatre just below the track, carved from the hillside and the beach walk back (which you can only do at low tide). The following morning we head further North. As the landscape unravels we are greeted with one stunning white sandy beach after another, Langs Beach and Waipu Cove were highlights, stopping at Langs for a quick dip in the pristine waters (very inviting).

Walking wonders of Whangarei The Twin Coast Discovery Highway joins

“The views were outstanding”

Mt Manaia overlooking Whangarei Harbour

back on to the main highway and within an hour of leaving we are in Whangarei City and enjoying an early lunch at the Town Basin. The area is situated next to a marina which is home to many overseas yachties. It’s a very pretty area with a pleasant vibrancy about it. There’s also a beautifully manicured Heritage and Sculpture walk that meanders down the river, distinctive panels tell the history of the area mixed in with native plants and sculptures. We don’t have the tim e today, but can see there are some great places to shop for arts and crafts, eat and enjoy. There also appears to be an artisans fair happening, along with a fabulous childrens playground (and the Whangarei

Art Museum looked like it would be well worth a visit!) There are a couple of walks that can be easily accessed from the Town Basin. We decide to go up Mount Parihaka (recently awarded international Green Flag status) a bush-clad volcanic cone. Parihaka is a former pa site and one of the most significant mountains for Maori in Northland. It would have been home to more than two thousand Maori people and contains visible remains of house sites, storage pits and defences along the 3 kilometres of ridgeline. We start by walking along the Hatea River Walkway and take one of the tracks up through the reserve. It was pretty easy going while we followed the river (and next time we’ll make sure we have some bread to feed the ducks!), but it got a bit more challenging as we started up the mountain. Reaching the summit, we enjoyed great panoramic views out over the city and the Whangarei harbour. Just stunning! We save the walk on to the

AH Reed Kauri Park and Whangarei Falls for another time (yes, we will definitely be back) as we understand it is well worth a visit.

Heads you win!! We then head out to Whangarei Heads and Bream Head (which we had seen the day before from Mangawhai). This is a quick scenic trip from the city and again we are faced with the decision of which walk to do. There are numerous, we could plan the walks to take us three days but there are also walks of only a couple of hours. We choose two, Mount Manaia for the afternoon and for the next morning a shorter walk taking in Smugglers Bay. We learn that Mt Manaia is named after an early ancestor of local Maori people and holds a very special place in their history. We are greeted at the tracks entrance by five carved Maori statues, representing Manaia, his wife and three children. The rocky outcrops on top of Mt Manaia are believed to be that of Manaia and his family. The place really does have a ‘feeling’ to it. It is a pretty intense climb in parts, but also lots of places that will stop you in www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Kingdom of Zion is a tranquil countryside retreat near Whangarei in Northland, New Zealand, and is home to the Lionman, Craig Busch.

The park provides a sanctuary to 33 big cats white and tawny lions, white and orange tigers, cheetahs, and a black leopard. Many of these animals are extremely rare and some are extinct in the wild. Kingdom of Zion is dedicated to the preservation of big cats. To help fund habitat development and the ongoing care of the big cats, we offer a range of guided tours, available daily.

GUIDED TOURS FEED TOURS ENRICHMENT TOURS CHEETAH ENCOUNTERS BEHIND THE SCENES

Call our office or check out the website for more details

(+64) 09 435 0110 www.kingdomofzion.co.nz office@kingdomofzion.co.nz

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your tracks to catch your breath. About halfway to the top is an impressive stand of large tree ferns and about ten minutes from the summit a rocky platform (the Bluff Lookout) that gave us the most stunning views of the harbour, along the now familiar coastline of Bream Head and out to the Hen and Chicken Islands and the Pacific Ocean! The summit of Manaia is 403 metres above sea level and going right to the top is probably only for those with a strong head for heights! It felt like we could be in a plane, truly amazing. Leaving this area gave us both a sense of having experience something quite special. The walk takes us about three hours, this included having a good amount of time to sit and take in the breath taking views. The track is in excellent condition and appears to have had a lot of work done on it recently. We check into one of the many local B&B’s for the night. The next morning, we head to the Busby Head/Smugglers Bay track. This track is close to the water, which meant we got to start the morning with another dip. The track is an enjoyable walk, featuring old gun emplacements which are a bit of a novelty. Views are once again breath taking combining coastal elements and beautiful native bush. The rolling farmland leading to Smugglers Bay is postcard picturesque and a great spot for another swim! We then headed for the The Kingdom of Zion and being a Saturday we arrived in time to take part in the Feed Tour where we accompanied one of the Keepers and feed these amazing beasts. An amazing property and experience for all the family and only a few minutes drive

from Whangarei City. If in luck one may be there when Craig Busch is in attandance. He is New Zealand’s Mr Lionman and will introduce you to his family of big cats.

One bay after another With just one night left, we decide to take things a little more leisurely and drive back towards town and then a little further north to the Tutukaka Coast (National Geographic rated it second equal as the top coastline in the world!). Once again we are greeted by one stunning bay after another, all offering their own uniqueness; one may be ragged and rocky, the next sand and surf or even covered in pipi or scallop shells. The coastline is diverse and breath-taking, offering spaces of complete solitude where you can feel like you’re the only one around. We enjoy the serenity and take a picnic lunch at Sandy Bay, an uncrowded “world-famous-in-New Zealand” surf spot. The afternoon is dedicated to some R&R and we check into our hotel at Tutukaka. There is an excellent restaurant and we settle in for a late afternoon glass of NZ Sauvignon Blanc. Talking to the locals we learn about the Poor Knights islands about 50 kilometres off the mainland. This world renowned diving and snorkelling spot is a protected marine reserve. Before heading home the next day we decide to enjoy one more walk. This coastline is dotted with wrecks from early seafarers so we walk out to one of the lighthouses. It’s only about an hour return, although it proves to be a great cardio workout, some really steep declines and inclines, so a good way to finish our visit. Getting to the Lighthouse is only possible at high tide and we are able to enjoy the

“We are greeted by one stunning bay after another”

Whale Bay on the Tutukaka Coast

views and scenery, out to the Poor Knights islands and up and down the coast – next time we’ll also bring our snorkel gear as the water looked divine. On the way back to Auckland, which takes just over two hours, we stop in at the sub tropical Whangarei Quarry Gardens (recognised as a garden of significance by the New Zealand Gardens Trust). Amazing plants, man-made lakes and waterfalls – another very special place with free entry and just off the main road it’s well worth a visit. Along with a large number of tracks and

walkways we will be back to discover, the area also offers a range of other activities to be enjoyed. We hear that watching lions being fed at Kingdom of Zion is a family highlight, along with some excellent golf courses, visits to Kiwi North (see live kiwi!) and the Glenbervie Adventure Forest height circuits are worth checking out. We get back to Auckland feeling like we had just experienced a very special part of New Zealand. We felt rested, rejuvenated and reconnected. We found the local people warm and hospitable, open to sharing their stories and culture. They seem to have a strong sense of their place

in the world. We often heard we ‘love it here’ and we now know why. Getting to Whangarei is an easy self drive, but there are also plenty of other transport options including a domestic airport and plenty of accommodation to choose from. It is a place well worth discovering and can be easily enjoyed over a weekend. We were really impressed and will certainly be back to discover some other hidden secrets – Whananaki (try getting your tongue around that!) sounds like it will be the next place to explore. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Auckland

An elegant affair By Katie Alexander

I’m lying in a dimly lit room, soothing music playing softly in the background, the knots in my neck and shoulders melting away. I’m at Chuan Spa, an exclusive spa at The Langham, Auckland that promises tranquillity and relaxation. Mission accomplished.

y mother and I are in Auckland for the weekend – the first time we’ve ever been on a trip just the two of us. And with no husbands or kids tagging along we had put together the ultimate girly itinerary. We’d arrived at The Langham hotel that morning but had wisely prebooked our appointments at Chuan before we left home. Being rather partial to spa treatments on holiday, I have developed high expectations. I was blown away by Chuan Spa. This is no mere hotel add-on, it is a world-class spa in its own right. The interior is a combination of traditional and contemporary oriental design, and from the moment you walk in you have already left the real world behind. The philosophy behind both the decor and the treatments is the harmony of the five Wu Xing

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elements of traditional Chinese medicine – water, fire, wood, metal and earth – said to be essential for emotional and physical wellbeing. Chuan offers everything you could want in a five-star spa – facials, massages, scrubs, wraps, hand and foot treatments and even bathing rituals. And with offseason airfares to Auckland saving us precious dollars on the holiday budget, we went all out. The Chuan Eternity package starts with an evening primrose oil body exfoliation to soften the skin, before a full body massage that works out every last knot from head to toe. The highlight for me was the Chinese Acupressure Scalp Massage, which was followed by a facial and a healing foot treatment. And while three hours sounds like a long time, believe me it’s time very well spent. I can only describe the feeling in clichés: walking

GULF HARBOUR

the Langham

COUNTRY CLUB World class golf - and more

Welcome to

Gulf Harbour Country Club Open 7 days a week for you to play golf. World-class golf course and club facilities, Gulf Harbour Country Club has been de-scribed as “possibly the best golf course in Auckland”. Located 40 minutes north of Auckland city and well worth the visit. If you are looking for a casual golf game or Membership, a special location for your wedding reception, perhaps a unique experience for your Corporate golf day, business conference or meeting ...

on air, light as a cloud – you get the idea. We’d timed our visit to Chuan perfectly; we had a big night out ahead of us but still plenty of time to enjoy the floating feeling that lingered from our spa treatments. Our rooms at The Langham were spacious and beautiful so we were more than happy to simply lounge about – or in my case indulge in a wee nap. The entire hotel, undisputedly one of the city’s top five-star hotels, is magnificent. From the oversized chandelier in the lobby to the plush furnishings in every room, it somehow strikes just the right balance of old-world opulence with a modern touch. Later, refreshed and dressed up in our finest, we were wide awake again and very excited. We’d arranged our trip to coincide with New Zealand Opera’s season of Madame Butterfly, one of Mum’s favourites. More on that later though – first, one must eat. On a friend’s recommendation, we

dined at Clooney in Freeman’s Bay, a lovely inner-city suburb right on the cusp of the city centre. Clooney has a raft of awards to its name, and it’s hard to believe this sophisticated space was once an industrial warehouse. It’s intimate, stylish and apparently rather popular with local celebs, and the food is an equal match for the beautiful surroundings. Even the descriptions on the menu are mouth watering: beef tenderloin, shiitake, black garlic, truffle, marrow and miso (for me) and boneless natural lamb,

www.gulfharbourcountryclub.co.nz

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Visit Voyager Auckland waterfront’s Maritime Museum

ise

Parnell R

aubergine, onion, maple, garlic and olive (for Mum). With an extensive wine list and an emphasis on using fresh local produce and ingredients, the awards are well deserved.

Cast off for a journey to discover New Zealand’s story. Try your hand at yacht design, relax in the bach, hoist the sails, hear the cannon fire, test your sea legs and batten down the hatches in the rocking cabin.

Open 9.00am-5.00pm 7 days a week Corner Quay & Hobsons Streets, Viaduct Harbour, Auckland Ph: +64 9 373 0800 www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com 58 www.maritimemuseum.co.nz

After retouching our lippy, it’s off to the big event. New Zealand Opera has really evolved to become world-class and Madame Butterfly was nothing short of spectacular, unsurprisingly bringing a tear to the eye once or twice. New Zealand Opera puts on several operas a year, with Don Giovanni and The Flying Dutchman among others on the 2013 calendar. Those who don’t know Auckland well might be surprised at the line up of big events and shows the city attracts. Jersey Boys and Mary Poppins have both played in town not long ago at the magnificent art deco Civic Theatre, and Wicked and War Horse are headed this way later in the year. Auckland also has a thriving theatre scene of its own, from Shakespeare to original local productions, so it’s well worth checking out what’s on when you’re here. Back at The Langham, I unwound from all the excitement with a cuppa in my fluffy robe, before falling into my luxurious king size bed. On Sunday morning we headed to Parnell to check out La Cigale French style farmers’ market, this time at the recommendation of a fellow hotel guest. Parnell is Auckland’s oldest suburb and I’m certain it must be one of its prettiest. The 19th century villas have been immaculately restored and the small strip

of shops and cafés are equally lovely. Run by local business owners with a passion for all things French, La Cigale market was originally held only on Saturdays, but became so popular that you can now visit on Sunday too. We wandered through stalls of colourful fruit and vegetables, delectable French cheeses – of which we sampled many – oils, spices, homemade preserves and lots of other delicious treats. From the friendly greetings between the stall holders and shoppers it was obvious there were lots of locals who came to stock up each weekend. Afterwards we took a stroll through the small strip of cafés (all packed), boutique stores and art galleries. Parnell village is compact and gorgeous, and a great place to pick up a unique piece of designer clothing, jewellery or art that you know no one else at home will have. Never one to return from a holiday without something new, I chose a delicate silver necklace from Orsini, a fine jewellery boutique that is also the exclusive New Zealand stockist of several in-demand Italian jewellery designers. Among Parnell’s stores is a boutique chocolate shop with cabinets and walls lined with handmade goodies. On any other day I would have happily indulged, however today I exercised some restraint – after all we had one last treat on the agenda. ‘Tiffin at The Langham’ is The Langham hotel’s signature afternoon tea, an elegant high tea that is deliciously decadent and

Clooney

exquisitely elegant. Far more than simply a ‘meal between meals’, it is an experience to be savoured.

La Cigale French Market

Relaxing in the high backed chairs in The Winery, we first ordered tea from the extensive range on offer. The Palm Court Exotic Blend is one of The Langham’s own special teas, created by their international Master Tea Blender. Now that’s fancy. There are more than 20 others to choose from, including Ceylonese teas, Darjeeling blends, flavoured black teas and herbal infusions. And if you’re celebrating something special (or even if you’re not) you can opt for the Champagne Tiffin instead. When the three-tiered cake stand arrived at our table Mum and I looked at each other wide-eyed. Each morsel looked like a small piece of perfection. The selection was superb, from delicate sandwiches of champagne ham and cucumber to more adventurous offerings – the goat cheese filoettes with sweet pepper jam and the petit potato salad with smoked duck and orange curd were particularly sublime. We enjoyed a short break before the pastries and cakes come out, sipping our tea and chattering away. The savouries alone would have been a satisfying afternoon tea, but you wouldn’t want to miss these sweet treats. We took our time, relishing each bite and afterwards debating whether the Grand Marnier cupcake or the strawberry and lemon tartlet was the best of the day. A world away from the afternoon teas I usually share with Mum – a few chocolate biscuits and a cuppa – Tiffin at The Langham was the perfect way to end our visit to Auckland. To fit so much pampering into one weekend without ever feeling rushed was just bliss. They say change is as good as a holiday. I’m afraid after our getaway, I have to disagree. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

The Coromandel

Coromandel

Mercury bay magic David Hunter takes to the water and realises how spectacular the Coromandel is.

fter an early morning flight to Auckland and a quick breakfast it was finally time to head east for the weekend to kick back and soak up some sun. It was a spontaneous decision to fly up but with cheap flights on our side and hot weather forecasted all weekend, it was an easy one to make. To begin our adventure we set off early Saturday morning and cruised up the east coast of The Coromandel, stopping first at Hot Water Beach. We didn’t really know what to expect but being rated one of New Zealand’s most visited beaches we knew we had to check it out. Lucky for us we timed it perfectly, catching the peak of low tide we arrived to find a truly unique site. Steam was rising through the sand, as 60

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water was bubbling to the surface. People of all ages were bathing in hot pools dug out of the sand, which covered metres of the beach. Temperatures were as high as 64 degrees in some spots, which seemed remarkable to think, as the cool waves from the ocean were only footsteps away. But in this case nature really did cater for all, as the temperatures of the water ranged significantly, which meant one could really relax and enjoy a natural experience while soaking up the minerals.

was barely a soul in sight and the blue sea glistened as it washed up on to the beach. The weather and the sea conditions were close to perfect.

However as high tide swept in and our pools began to disappear it meant it was time to pack up our spades and continue on to Hahei for an afternoon of kayaking with Mike and his team at Cathedral Cove Kayaks. We couldn’t have asked for a better day, the beach was idyllic; there

It was fair to say I had no idea how to kayak before this trip, which made me slightly apprehensive but as it turned out I wasn’t the only one. The trip caters for all levels of experience; safety isn’t an issue as the guide tags along at the back with frequent stops to tell a tale or two.

Hahei had a sense of ease about it, almost as though time slowed down once we arrived. The locals were very friendly to say the least, and the town, although a popular spot for many domestic and international tourists all year round, positively maintained its rustic charm.

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Hayden was our guide for the day and he’s pretty much everything you’d expect from a local ‘Coro’ boy. Shaggy, sun bleached hair, straw hat and a nice tan help him blend into the natural surroundings that’s kept him at Cathedral Cove Kayaks for years. His relaxed demeanor couldn’t mask his passion for the area. Despite years of guiding Hayden really turned it on when talking about the history, bringing the landscape to life with Maori legends.

No description does justice to the powerful presence of nature at Te Moata. Set in 344 hectares of native bush just north of Tairua, this sanctuary hosts a variety of residential retreats, community events and workshops. A network of walking tracks leads to streams, waterfalls, and beautiful stands of native trees including ancient Kauri.

Experience Te Moata for yourself. Enrol in a retreat, book a stay in one of our cottages or remote bush huts, or schedule a casual visit. Enjoy breathtaking views, a walk in the labyrinth and checking out some of our tracks.

For details of upcoming events visit:

www.temoata.org Visitors are welcome by arrangement. Phone Jessie or Dave at 07 868 8798 or email info@temoata.org

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The waters we were kayaking are known as Mercury Bay, which are known in Maori as Te Whanganui-A-Hei (the Great Bay of Hei). A line of islands straddles the entrance of the bay each telling their own story. One of the larger islands just off the coast of Hahei is well known in the area for its remarkable resemblance of a nose. According to ancient traditions Hei an early Maori settler to the area proclaimed ownership around the bay by naming that very island “Te Kuraetanga-o-taku-Ihu” which translates into the outward curve of my nose. It is easy to see how anyone would

be lured into the shores of Mercury Bay. Pohutukawa trees (the native New Zealand Christmas tree) fringe the shorelines and sandy white beaches. This reserve opens up a sea kayaking paradise full of beaches, islands and rock gardens that are just waiting to be explored. It was truly remarkable being immersed within this environment; the air was fresh and the ocean was crystal clear making it possible to see the marine life swimming beneath. We paddled over the odd docile stingray, unfortunately our arrival didn’t coincide with the Orca that pass through to feed on them. Everywhere we looked was another postcard moment, thankfully Hayden was snapping away so he could post the pics on their Facebook page. The “Cathedral Cove Classic” tour is now seen as one of New Zealand’s premier eco-tourism attractions. As part of the tour we were taken through Mercury Bay’s very own marine reserve, Te Whanganui-A-Hei and educated about its importance. You could almost see a tinge of pride when Hayden explained the impact the reserve has

had on the local fishery. Since its establishment in 1992 the abundance of marine life and variety of species have increased dramatically. Overall we kayaked for roughly three and a half hours, but time on the water just flew by. We paddled through sea caves; explored volcanic islands within the Marine Reserve and to top it off enjoyed a mocha on the beach at Cathedral Cove. We cruised into Cathedral Cove about half way through the trip, for some time to relax on the beach. The cove was named for its spectacular arched cavern linking it to the next beach, which you can walk through at low tide - a must do. Located a short distance from the beach is Te Hoho Rock, which sits out alone lapping up the water. What sets Cathedral Cove apart from many other beautiful beaches and gives it that exclusive edge is that it is only accessible by foot or boat. Before we knew it, our afternoon on the water had come to an end as we paddled into Cooks Beach. If this was what every activity in The Coromandel was like, I knew we were in for a good few days. Before checking into Hot Water Beach Holiday Park for the night, we had one last stop. One of the guys in our kayaking group had been raving about these delicious macadamias he had purchased. After a few enquiries

we were off on our way to the Cathedral Cove Macadamia Farm, which turned out to be only 10 minutes from Hahei. The owners were fantastic, sharing their story about their escape from Auckland to set up an organic macadamia farm which has resulted in an award winning product. I envy their lifestyle, like Hayden they’re living their dream. I if only I could conjure up a plan to settle in Hahei and embrace the aura that surrounds this pristine coastal community. Cathedral Cove Kayaking has been rated as one of the country’s best sea kayaking tours, and I can definitely see why. Kayaking with such a fun crew and in such an amazing environment

was the perfect way to begin our trip. The experience is so much more than the pictures depict, its not until you’re actually out their kayaking on the water that you realize just how spectacular The Coromandel is.

White Island Volcano Adventure

Z N n i s r u o h o w t t s e b The 0800 804 354 |

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Taupo

The Merry (Golf) Widows of Taupo While ‘the boys’ play on the green, their womenfolk can discover tramping, dining and other pleasures, says Miranda Spary

’m a very happy golf widow, and nothing gives me greater pleasure than waving goodbye to my husband as he sets off on a boys’ weekend with his mates. He has a great time and I have a better one. So what on earth made me and two of the other wives want to join in on a boys’ weekend this week? Firstly, because they were playing at Wairakei Golf Course near Lake Taupo

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and I’d heard so much about the bird sanctuary they have created there. Secondly, because it’s not far from New Zealand’s oldest National Park and so many people banging on about the famous one day Tongariro Crossing had convinced me to see the geological excitements for myself. Thirdly, because I’m a South Islander and haven’t seen nearly enough of the North Island. I’m hopelessly in love with

the South Island but whenever I visit the upstairs bit of our beautiful country, I have to admit that it has a huge amount of charm, too.

Scoring native birdies on the green! Wairakei Golf and Sanctuary is just a five minute drive from Taupo. In 1970 . the leading British golf course architect, Commander John Harris saw the potential for an outstanding golf course in

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Wairakei, and he encouraged the then government’s Tourist Hotel Corporation to create a green fee golf course for everyone to enjoy. That showed huge foresight but the new owners are showing even more. Imported pests have decimated the native bird population throughout New Zealand so Wairakei Golf and Sanctuary decided to spend millions of dollars building a predator fence that snakes the whole five kilometer perimeter of the course. At the same time, they ran a huge planting programme of native and exotic trees and eradicated all the pests that threaten the birds. Now it’s not just the trees that are a hazard to golfers - the birdsong from the fivefold increase in the bird population is a delight, and a huge distraction. Unlike their Australian counterparts, New Zealand birds sing beautiful songs! Normally, I’m not very interested in watching golf, but watching golf at Wairakei is a whole new experience. As well as getting the chance to see so many

Tongariro Crossing

of our flying friends, I even got to see a kiwi. We watched a young chick being released in the sanctuary where it will stay until it’s old enough to survive in the big bad world outside the predator fence. Wairakei’s got all sorts of exotic creatures strutting around as well(none so bright as brightly clad golfers, though) – we had fun collecting pheasant and guinea fowl feathers, and admired the very tame fallow deer helping to keep the course in order. It’s still not enough to make me want to take up golf, but I’m very much in the minority. In a country with many magnificent golf courses, it’s a huge compliment to Wairakei that so many New Zealanders rate it as their favourite.

Tramping the Tongariro As for the favourite one day hike, I’ve grown tired of hearing everyone say it’s the Tongariro Crossing. How can it be that good? Last year, a group of girlfriends and

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“Taupo has far too much on offer to try and see it in just three days”

I did the beautiful Lake Waikaremoana walk in the North Island’s Urewera misty, mysterious mountains. We are what’s known as ‘glampers” – that is, we like the tramping but not without our creature comforts. Walking Legends are the glamper’s best friend. They run guided tours with exceptional guides who not only keep you safe and sound and can answer all your questions, but somehow manage to produce delicious meals and cocktails and bars of chocolate and everything else out of their magic backpacks. Even these guides raved about the Tongariro Crossing. So we rang Adrift Guided Outdoor Adventures again and booked their oneday package. Tongariro is pretty high – nearly 2000 metres at the top, so it can get cold and windy. It’s also very good at catching every cloud that passes by. And it’s not just weather that can disrupt your

plans, geological flatulence can create mayhem, as witnessed in last year’s eruptions. Local forecasts are essential although even they are not infallible. The forecast the morning we set off was for brilliant sunshine, and as I puffed and sweated along after twenty minutes of walking, I regretted not throwing my thermals and wet weather gear out of my pack. Halfway up what’s known as the Devil’s Staircase, I was still resenting my heavy load. As we reached the great flat South Crater, I suddenly loved it. The clouds rolled in on a chilly wind and cloaked us in damp mist. Moral of the story – do NOT go into the mountains without warm clothes. We kept climbing, and Stewart, our guide, kept us focused with plenty of chocolate and made sure we were looking the right way whenever the annoying clouds allowed us a peek at the scenery. When we finally got to the top, we tried to imagine the view Stewart was describing. Damp and disappointed, we cheered up as we wolfed down excellent sandwiches and muffins. All of a sudden, Tongariro did a striptease and threw off its filmy white negligee, leaving itself completely exposed and thrilling. The Emerald Lakes with the steam pouring out of the side, the huge and bright blue Blue Lake (why can’t we New Zealanders be more imaginative with our names?) and the Central Crater, the tops of all the mountains – all glittering and dazzling in the sunshine. It was a very dramatic unveiling of an extraordinary landscape. We clicked our cameras till our fingers ached. It’s hard to leave the top and that view. By the time we got back to the

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Spanish dinner at Scenic Cellars

van, we were jelly-kneed but jubilant and decided to celebrate with dinner in Taupo.

for the nearby Croucher Pilsner. Perfect choice.

There are masses of restaurants to choose from. I’ve often noticed something about places that attract anglers and golfers, skiers and boaties, bikers and hikers – they always seem to have plenty of good food and wine around as well, and Taupo is no exception.

If you are going to Taupo, check the Scenic Cellars website beforehand– as well as Paella Friday every week, they host all sorts of other events. Their long Spanish dinner is said to be dangerously good fun as is their famous Wine Options game.

Eating that’s simply de-Vine! We’d all asked around our friends about the best place to eat, and the Vine Eatery in Tuwharetoa St came out on top, some saying they have the best coffee, others recommending it for lunch and breakfast. We were told to make sure to try the beers on tap with wild names like “California Uber Alles” and “Tuatara Porter” (canny locals refill flagons with them). The tapas style dinner menu came highly recommended as well and as ardent tapas lovers, we couldn’t say no. Originally a boutique wine shop called Scenic Cellars, the restaurant was added nearly two years ago. Three couples own the business and they have great style. What looks like a painting on the main wall is a deconstructed wine barrel and the massive light fittings are made of 150 wine bottles and 200 wineglasses. Half Spanish/half Portuguese chef Reginaldo Gallina likes robust tastes and generous portions. It was hard to go past the duck livers and breast with new season’s cherries, and there are plenty of vegetarian and gluten free options as well– we were crazy about the strawberry and feta combo on the mixed leaf salad, and the French beans and bacon topped with Gorgonzola and parmesan. You can shop for your wine in the restaurant – there’s a huge selection from all over the world and it’s just a $7 corkage fee. My homesick Central Otago friends chose a bottle of 2011 Felton Road pinot noir, and as a beer aficionado, I went

Unfortunately, we couldn’t try the game as after a delicious meal and only a couple of drinks, the day’s hike caught up with us and we screwed the top back on the half empty wine bottle and headed back to our hotel to collapse. There are a few ways to solve the problem of jelly knees and stiff legs the day after a big hike. There are some great yoga schools in the town, and loads of massage therapists. But best of all is a spa. Natural hot pools are everywhere in Taupo with this much geothermal activity around. Our boys’ golfing weekend was over far too quickly. Taupo has far too much on offer to try and see it in just three days. Looks like we wives are going to have to reschedule another boys’ trip to Taupo again very soon.

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Rotorua

The swingers on top of the world Morag Bellingham takes to the ropes in the treetops with Rotorua Canopy Tours

had heard a lot about the growing reputation of Rotorua Canopy Tours, a business that opened on the outskirts of Rotorua in 2012. As a tourist venture it sounded as they may have hit the nail on the head with a unique mix of adventure, personal challenge, nature and education and by all accounts was becoming more and more popular by the day as people took on the 3 hour journey. And so we made our way to their door - my partner and I who quite frankly was not overwhelmed by the idea of some of the heights involved in the tour. We had booked a 5pm tour in early February

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that was to finish around 8pm as the sun dropped behind the forested hills. The cheery faces at check in and the calm demeanour of our guides put our minds at ease as we met our fellow tour participants. After safety equipment and harness fitting we climbed aboard the van and headed to the ‘secret’ forest where the tour takes place – a forest that has been standing for centuries and resembles how New Zealand looked prior to human habitation. The journey up there was highly entertaining. With only 5 others in our tour party ( they take a maximum of 10 per tour) Michelle did a great job of ensuring we all

knew each other as we were all about to become a very tightly knit family! We had a diverse age range – 17 – 70’s in the tour party. On arrival the roadside forest scrub gave no indication of the beauty that lay within. Instantly on stepping in the forest it was like a lost world opening up, a step back in time. The temperature immediately dropped a degree or too, the fresh forest air filled my lungs and the dampness of the mosses and understory filled my nostrils – it was a senses overload and it was magnificent. The monstrous trees, towering ferns, flimsy little ground ferns, tree mosses , chattering bird noise–

3 hours had passed – testament to the totally engaging experience I had just been through – and my partner loved it! everywhere you looked was incredible diversity.

everyone’s eye’s opened a little wider as they realised what was in store for us.

What was I here to do? I momentarily forgot about the harness and the upcoming ziplines as the magic of this place I had just entered enveloped me.

A through safety briefing led by Michelle left us in no doubt – let the guides do the work, don’t touch any metal, we would be connected at all times, we were going to be as safe as houses, any doubts was just in our minds – but most of all HAVE FUN!

The guides, Michelle a bundle of energy and Dan a pretty laid back cool guy who spends his non guiding life climbing rock faces around the world, bought the environment to life, but not in a too heavy or intense way – they had obviously perfected the right amount of information that their customers like to absorb and it was fascinating. Anyway – we weren’t there for the walk in – we were there to ride the ziplines and get high in the trees. The first platform came into view built high on a volcanic knob deep in the forest. We entered and

Dan disappeared off down the line to wait each of our arrivals – we all watched him disappear in nervous anticipation. The nervous atmosphere was broken only by Michelle’s cheery voice interrupting the silence –“Who’s First”. The Australian teenager in the group stepped forward and had his go followed by his parents, and then to my disbelief my partner stepped up – and went.

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And then it was me! It was a little nerve wracking I must be honest walking down those steps but oh my word what a feeling when I was underway! Flying above the understory, looking down on the ferns – up there with the birds – it was magic! The first platform you fly into is 12 metres up a 500 year old Rimu Tree – which is now heavily protected by law to preserve these mighty forests for future generations. It became immediately obvious when you are up in the trees the lengths this company has gone to ensure minimal environmental impact and preserve the forest to deliver this incredible eco journey. The tour continues on it’s way as we traverse the infrastructure laid out ahead of us. More ziplines and suspended tree bridges carry us further into the forest and at one point we find ourselves 22 metres up a Rimu tree staring down a 220 metre zipline. It actually wasn’t as scary as it sounds as by this stage you have total confidence in all the equipment and guides and are really enjoying yourself. After about an hour and a half we found ourselves back on the ground for a while on the “Conservation Trail”. This was a pleasant surprise as the guides

taught us about the issues facing New Zealand forest due to the introduction of mammals like the rat, ferret and Australian possum. Utter devastation to the natural eco systems of New Zealand is an understatement but what surprised me more is what this company is doing about it. Without spoiling it, it left me inspired, proud to be a customer on their tour, and in awe of what determination and vision can achieve. Let me just say I will be revisiting in a few year time to check on progress.

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PROUD TO BE PART OF HISTORIC CULTURAL LEGACY

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Kiri Atkinson-Crean took up a new role as general manager sales and marketing with Te Puia | New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute - in late May 2012. Kiri’s strong background in Rotorua tourism, including 15 years in destination marketing, branding and communications roles as well as senior roles in sales, marketing, strategy, operations and management for tourism companies made her a great fit for the role. She heads an experienced and passionate team of marketing professionals responsible for specific markets, product development, tours and education. Kiri says guiding visitors through Te Whakarewarewa Valley is a proud legacy, and has been for more than a century. “I feel honoured to be a part of the Te Puia commitment to protect and perpetuate the traditions, values, belief systems and arts of our ancestors through the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute.” www.tepuia.com

As the fi has bee 1997. S degree and wa new fac the gen Emma H owner o industry for Roto manage most re team is site incl www.z

And so, it was back into the trees for the final hour, a long and very high flight opened up the valley ahead of me and the late evening rays of sun danced upon the forest horizon. As the tour came to an end I realised I had not once looked at my watch – but 3 hours had passed – testament to the totally engaging experience I had just been through – and my partner loved it! He even went upside down on the last zipline ride. Sad, that the tour was over, but overjoyed at what we had just been through we disappeared into Rotorua and had a Japanese meal and relived our adventure – not before changing email addresses and promising to keep in touch with our new friends we had made on the tour – we all experienced something special together.

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Birds of prey for our future

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Taranaki

Taranaki transformed By Nicky Jones

With my recollections of the Taranaki region well and truly out of date, it was time to hit the road to find out if the rumours were true – that Taranaki had transformed itself from a land of prize-winning black and white cows to prizewinning short blacks and flat whites.

riends had recently come back from the Taranaki region, on the North Island’s West Coast, abuzz with tales of fantastic coffees, amazing art galleries, friendly bar staff and cool studios. Had this been something I’d missed? Seeking to find out if there was any truth to the rumours I headed north for a weekend to discover more about Taranaki’s transformation. My knowledge of modern-day Taranaki was pretty much limited to the fact there was a mountain there, and it’s easy to see why – even before you get to the

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region he’s omnipresent, standing tall and keeping an eye on the region that bears his name. He’s a bit of a draw card for lots of the people I speak to about the region – some have climbed it (a steep nine hour return trip), others have sampled its 200km of bush and alpine walks, and more have ridden a bike around the circumference. Enthused but a little less energetic, I book in to fly over it in a helicopter. I start my tiki-tour in the south of the province. Aotea Utanganui - the Museum of South Taranaki – has pride of place in

Patea’s main street, between a sculpture of a ‘whale skeleton’ and a statue of the Aotea canoe, and around the corner from the Patea Maori Club, which shot to fame in the ‘80s and again a couple of years back with the song Poi E. Oddly I find myself humming this at random throughout the rest of the journey. The architecturally designed exterior of Aotea Utanganui draws you in and I’m wowed by displays of the the oldest wooded artefacts in the country - the remains of a waka repair yard destroyed by a tsunami around 1400.

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Photo: Richard Wotton Aotea Utunganui

Heading north from Patea, you meander through a lush farming landscape. The gleaming dairy factory at Whareroa, complete with 4m high dairy cow welcomes you to Hawera, where my first stop is for an award winning ice-cream at Gelato Caffe in the town’s High Street. It’s here I get directed to Tawhiti Museum, a short drive out of town. The brainchild of former art teacher Nigel Ogle and his family, Tawhiti Museum has got to be one of the best museums in the country. Dozens of hand crafted life-sized models and hundreds of scale models join thousands of artefacts, a bush railway and more to capture the area’s past in a unique and compelling way. The only comparison I can make is that it’s like Madame Tussaud’s at Disneyland. The Traders and Whalers exhibit, adjacent to the museum, should not be missed. I was led into an underground cave and onto a boat for a mind-blowing journey through the stories of Taranaki’s coastline in the early 1800’s. Simply impressive!

Taking a few back roads to avoid the pull of the mountain I found myself on Surf Highway 45, the 105km coast road from Hawera to New Plymouth. Traffic around ‘The Coast’ as the locals refer to it all seems to be loaded with surfboards and surfers, and before long I’m passing signs pointing to surf breaks down almost every road to my left. Pausing in Opunake to pick up a takeaway coffee at the local surf shop come café come information centre, I head down to the sheltered Opunake Beach to check out the surfers, wander along the black sand beach and take in the sea air. The camping ground here is very popular in summer, a friendly dog walker assures me, and there’s a burgeoning heritage trail that takes in the town’s history and growing collection of murals. Passing more surf breaks and with the mountain still omnipresent to my right – apparently here is one of only a few places you can surf and ski in the same day – I arrive at Oakura, stopping to grab a snack from the delectable selection at the cutely named Snickerdoodles café and peruse the impressive array of local arts and crafts on offer at the Crafty Fox.

The Last Samurai Oakura was home to Tom Cruise when the movie The Last Samurai came into town in 2002, and it was a tipping point in New Plymouth’s transformation, with thousands of crew, actors and extras combining with a new coastal walkway and the now iconic 45m tall Wind Wand sculpture all helping to putt the city on the map. Stopping at the Wind Wand I’m entranced, as much by dance of the kinetic sculpture itself as the number of people lying on the ground or walking

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backwards trying to get the whole thing into one shot. I’m equally taken by how busy the coastal walkway is. Walkers, runners, cyclists, skateboarders and more all jovially whizz past each other making the most of the 10km long path. Rivalling the Wind Wand as the walkway’s favourite attraction is the impressive Te Rewa Rewa Bridge, which spans the Waiwhakaiho River with a series of white arcs that looks like a crashing wave or the ribs of a whale, depending on who you ask. Either way I join the handful of photographers faming up the mountain through the bridge’s spans. Back in town I stop for a bite of lunch at Elixir on Devon Street. Cool tunes and café noise mix as I place my order for the apparently very popular (and very good) mince on toast and a flat white. There was a time when the provinces meant a lesser standard of coffee, but that’s clearly no longer the case. I’m informed that it’s locally roasted at the other end of town, so after passing numerous galleries and design stores along Devon Street, I hunt down the Ozone Bean Store, tucked away on King Street. I’m blown away by the cool surrounds and exquisite coffee. Now fully wired, I head around the corner to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, which turned an old cinema into an impressive contemporary art museum in 1970. The gallery houses the works of late kiwi artist Len Lye, who created

the Wind Wand, and construction is about to start on a new Len Lye Centre as part of the Govett-Brewster. Due to open in 2015, its gleaming exterior will be stunning if the plans are anything to go by. Understandably there will be some disruption to the gallery, so check the gallery’s website govettbrewster.com before visiting.

“I’m wowed by displays of the the oldest wooded artefacts in the country”

With an urge to test an emphatic recommendation to sample the wares of New Zealand’s oldest craft brewery, I drive 20 minutes north to Urenui to Mike’s Organic Brewery to sample my way through an award-winning Organic Ale brewed with rain water, a strawberry blonde, a coffee porter, and even a new non-organic range with a great name - the Illegitimate Sons. Director Ron Trigg spots me on my own and wanders over to see how I’m enjoying the beer. Ron gives me a great background of the process, and all too quickly I’m heading back to Breakwater Bay at New Plymouth’s port for a late afternoon flight over the mountain with Richard at Heliview. From 3,000 metres the mountain looks even more impressive, and as I learn of its legendary journey from the central plateau, I begin to get the sense that I’ve only just touched the surface of what Taranaki has to offer. It truly is a province like no other.

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Wellington

Conquering the Craft Beer Capital by Sarah Shuttleworth

Wellington

“Give me a woman who loves beer and I will conquer the world.” — Kaiser Wilhelm

ellington is known as many things; the windy city, the country’s culinary capital, Wellywood... but none intrigued me more than learning this eclectic little city is also the Craft Beer capital of New Zealand. Being more of a wine woman myself, I was excited, if not a little apprehensive about stalking out the city’s booming craft beer market. Little did I know, I was about to be converted. Visiting Wellington, it’s clear that the city is creating it’s own new market – beer tourism. With New Zealand’s name for craft beer’s growing on an international 76

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scale, beer lovers from Australia and beyond are hastily adding Wellington to their Bucket Lists. Why Wellington? It’s common knowledge that some of New Zealand’s best beer doesn’t come from the capital city: Blenheim’s 8 Wired, Rotorua’s Croucher and Christchurch’s Three Boys are just a sample of top brews from out of town. Instead, it is the people. Wellingtonians are undoubtedly a crowd of their own. They’re the country’s most educated bunch; accepting of all things different, unique and free from corporate corruption. For years, the city has been supportive of local bands, local coffee, and locally grown food; local craft beer seems

the next logical step in that same direction. On arrival my first stop was curiously not a bar but rather a website. Craft Beer Capital (online at craftbeercapital.com) is Wellington’s big brother when it comes to all things craft beer. Their aim has always been to build awareness of Wellington as the Craft Beer Capital of New Zealand and they’re most certainly succeeding.

Best beer hotspots Craft Beer Capital has cleverly created a map of Wellington with a marked trail, taking you through the main streets and suburbs to twelve of the city’s best craft beer hotspots. You can pick up the trail

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The fear of which beer do I start with has gone, and now I’m left with a much more mouth-watering question: which beer do I choose next?

map from any of the listed bars, but it’s easier just to head online. The website even has the latest lists of what beers are on tap around town, great for the beer geeks if you’re after a specific drop. Craft Beer Capital also has tasting tours on the cards for later in the year, including a visit to a local micro-brewery, so the site is the best place for all the up-to-date details. In the meantime they’re offering personally organised tours along with a knowledgeable guide, to get the most out of your craft beer experience while you’re in town. Even at short notice they were able to pull a tour together for me, and away I went to discover three of the cities best. The Malthouse was our first destination on the trail, located on Courtney Place, Wellington’s party centre. The street was starting to get rowdy despite the early hour, so I was pleasantly surprised to find the atmosphere inside to be miles apart from its overexcited neighbours. The Malthouse has been pouring since

1993 and was at the forefront of the capital’s craft beer movement thanks to founder Sean Murrie. It has had more that its fair share of complimentary reviews so I was very eager to see the place for myself. The sheer amount of bottled beers available was the first thing that caught my attention; with upwards of 150 varieties, it’s obvious Malthouse is committed to offering the country’s biggest range of beers. It was here I met my guides for the day; leading beer writer and freelance journalist, Neil Miller, and one of the guys behind Craft Beer Capital, Peter Moran. Neil already had the best seat in the house picked out; personal but with a full view of the bar and patrons, perfect. We were ready to begin! Manager and Scotsman, Collin Mallon came over to greet us and get us going with some tasting trays. As the four alluring glasses were placed in front of me, I was readier than ever to pass up a glass of vino and get started. The first sip of beer for the day was a taste of Wellington’s own Tuatara Pilsner, a well-suited choice as Murrie was also a founder of the Tuatara Brewery. It is the perfect starting beer for both a novice and wellacquainted professional alike. Beautifully crisp and refreshing with mellow hops and a slight fruitiness, I could have stuck with this drop all night long. But of course, there was more beer to taste. The stunning South

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Island Golden Bay area brought us our next beer: Mussel Inn Captain Cooker. Inspired by the first beer brewed in New Zealand by Captain Cook in 1773, Mussel Inn uses tips of the manuka tree along with organic New Zealand hops to create a very distinctive flavour. This beer was a winner for me, a beautiful blend of wood, ginger and rose water along with a deliciously rich malt base. Yum. Two very different IPAs were up next: Epic Armageddon IPA, packed full of hops with a crisp citrus and grapefruit flavour, and another Wellington local: Funk Estate Black IPA, a rich, chocolaty malt flavour with the hoppy kick on the finish. There’s no doubt that these two IPA’s had me falling head over heels for beer. After these four goodies, we decided it was about time to move on to another very highly regarded bar on the trail, Hashigo Zake.

Liquor ladder When Neil explained that Hashigo Zake literally translates as “liquor ladder”, I knew we’re heading in the right direction. The concept of a ladder is much more appropriate than our sloppier version of “pub crawl”, which is certainly not Craft Beer Capital’s vision. As we climbed down into the basement, the dark brick walls and cleverly placed dim lighting instantly gave a moody and romantic atmosphere. With an experimental approach to their beer list, extremely knowledgeable staff and no resident tap beers, it’s undoubtedly a haven for the beer connoisseur. Here, Peter chose us a wonderfully rich Barley Wine style beer – Renaissance Tribute. This one reminded me of sipping on a glass of port; warming and mellow with full-bodied flavours of maple syrup and biscuit.

A short walk to Fork & Brewer was last but not least on the evening’s agenda. This bar is set apart from the rest as it has a fully functioning brewery on premises. Fork & Brewer encompasses all things beer; along with the brewery, barrels have been created into sinks in the bathrooms, and there is a giant barrel housing their 40 taps behind the bar. The emphasis at Fork & Brewer is not only on drinking the beer itself, but also on matching it with the right foods and using it in the cooking as well – including using the leftover yeast to make bread! We tried three beers here, including two brewed on site: Base Isolator APA and Golden Mile Lager. Paired with some ingenious corned beef and mustard spring rolls and ‘beernaise’ brought out by the Chef, the third beer, 8 Wired Fresh Hopwired went down a treat. This ‘wet’ version of one of 8 Wired’s most popular, featured in this year’s inaugural Hopstock festival, a celebration of Nelson’s fresh hop harvest. This Craft Beer Capital event was so successful a repeat is already lined up for April next year. All the bars in Wellington have their own points of emphasis; some are focused on a wide selection, others more on unique flavours and experimentation. But they all share the same philosophy: serving Wellingtonions great beer. After a quick dinner on Courtney Place,

I found myself back at the Malthouse, surprisingly content with a beer in hand, without a drop of wine in sight. I think that is the biggest thing I can take away from today; the sheer size and vast range of craft beer may have seemed intimidating before I started this journey, but even after one day of tastings my perspective has shifted. The fear of which beer do I start with has gone, and now I’m left with a much more mouth-watering question: which beer do I choose next!

Tnz Top Pix

Not just for the birds

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Sea Kayaking, Abel Tasman National Park

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Buller

They came for Gold but stayed for Coal….. Matt Skilbeck takes the family to the West Coast to enjoy a fantastic experience learning about its pioneering heritage

his is what we were told on our recent tour through the new Coaltown Museum and Westport I-site, on our latest trip to the Coast. After a stunning drive up the ‘Coast Road’ from Punakaiki to Westport we found ourselves being lured in to investigating the stories of the area. Having never found heritage of huge interest myself and my family decided to explore the museum which came highly recommended by the locals we had met. The staff in the I-site explained how this multi-million dollar new facility had only just opened in May and had proved to be extremely popular with locals and visitors alike – a real West Coast visitor experience.

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We headed through from the contrasting light and bright feel of the Westport I-site into the rustic, industrial feel of the Coaltown Museum. Our initial reaction was WOW – where to start first! We were immediately overwhelmed with how huge some of the exhibits were and also how much colour there was for an industrial type museum with each of the stories of the museum having a different colour. If like me you are not overly excited about coal, geology and industrial machinery you will be pleasantly surprised by the other gems tucked away here. The population of the West Coast exploded as gold prospectors flooded in to the area from the ending Otago gold rush,

in search of their fortune. The gold boom at that time was short lived in the Buller area. The families settled in and around Westport for the coal mining. Interestingly enough gold and coal are both still mined in Buller today. I was very moved by the videos of days gone by, the stories of Denniston which are the base of Jenny Patrick’s famous books Heart of Coal and the Denniston Rose and the communities behind the Coal Industry of 1800’s New Zealand. We heard of the many townships including Denniston which experienced huge growth reaching a population of 1400 people, with a population today of only 10 residents. There were literally hundreds of these towns that popped up suddenly

in areas which were beautifully wild yet very inhospitable landscapes on the West Coast. These towns grew due to coal mining and most now no longer exist! Hearing of the women, the children, the men underground, the extremely difficult living conditions – it made us realise how luxurious our lives are today. The thing that struck me the most was the community spirit- how people rallied around each other and stuck together, how they looked out for one another. These scattered mining communities were a hub of activity with swimming, rugby, bowls, and dances to name but a few. There were many pubs across these mining communities which were very popular due to a work hard play hard mentality among the miners. I thoroughly enjoyed getting out of my comfort zone and going through a tunnel setup as a replica mine shaft similar to what would have been at Coalbrookdale. We really felt for those men as we began to understand that it was often dark when they went underground, dark as they worked and the sun had set when they headed home at the end of the day. We heard about Unionism, the communities, men at work, transportation, the maritime history of the area, the discovery and formation of the coal. The kids loved wandering around the open plan museum with the large machinery that moved and made noises

“We were immediately overwhelmed with how huge some of the exhibits were and also how much colour there was for an industrial type museum” too! It was fantastic to be able to get right up close to the exhibits and we especially enjoyed reading about the pit ponies that worked extremely hard and knew their jobs well! The museum actually follows the story of coal from its formation and discovery right through to getting it ‘off the hill’ down to Westport and on to the ships for transportation. Some of the feats of engineering achieved are nothing short of amazing like the Denniston incline known locally as the 8th Wonder of the World! The harsh reality about Denniston was that once people were living and working up there in the mines many never came down from the plateau ever again. They endured the weather, the conditions, the Union and everything that was thrown at www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

â&#x20AC;?A fantastic experience for all ages â&#x20AC;&#x153; them. The only way initially up or down from The Denniston Plateau was the very dangerous journey in one of the coal bins on the incline or later the rough steep climb on the bridle track walkway. This poem tells of the difficulty of that journey;

Damn Denniston Damn the track Damn the way both there and back Damn the wind and damn the weather God damn Denniston altogether. Due to the fact we all enjoyed Coaltown so much we decided to explore the Buller District a little more and headed north of Westport to visit Denniston for ourselves on our way to Karamea. Everything we had seen in the museum clicked into place as we explored the Plateau, visited the incline,

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took in the stories up there and gazed out over the coastline at the breath-taking view. You really do feel on top of the world at Denniston being 600 metres above sea level. The kids loved completing the Denniston Kiwi Ranger activity booklet provided by the Department of Conservation and were also given a badge each, which they wore proudly and kept to remember the special family time we shared in Westport. We highly recommend visiting Coaltown followed by Denniston and the Denniston Experience with the train into the Banbury Mine to feel what life as a coal miner was really like. A fantastic experience for all ages and such a good opportunity for us all to learn about the pioneering heritage of the West Coast of New Zealand!

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West Coast

Mining a raft of treasures Chris Birt visits the historic centres of the West Coast

ife, as they say, is for living. And there’s no place on Earth where that philosophy is more actively practised than on the West Coast of the Southern Alps. The Coasters, as they are universally known, are as colourful and diverse as you will find anywhere on the planet. And they are only too happy to demonstrate those intrinsic characteristics to anyone who happens to mosey on by. That’s precisely what I did recently, on a journey that was as entertaining as it was enlightening and educational. That’s

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the nature of the Coasters and the place where they live – a region they simply refer to as ‘The Coast’. It may sound hackneyed, but the West Coast of the Southern Alps is legitimately truly unique. Firstly, it’s a region that is much longer than it is wide – as it happens, just 70 kilometres from the wild ocean swells that roll in from Australia to the foot of the mountain range that divides one side of New Zealand’s South Island from the other. Contrast that with its length - 600 kilometres, from the lush rainforests in the

north to the glaciers and wild rivers in the south. That’s not a distance to be travelled in a day, even if it is actually do-able. I’d decided from the outset that to race down this narrow strip of blue and green would be to deny myself a truly unforgettable experience, not to mention enough snaps to fill the mandatory multitude of photo albums. This region of New Zealand is one of my most favoured destinations in New Zealand. It’s the history, the heritage and the laid-back way in which the locals approach life in general that really rocks my boat.

in 1929 rattled buildings to pieces with an estimated force of 7.8 on the Richter scale, leaving 17 locals dead – mostly the result of landslides.

“The all new Coaltown is a must-see.”

Many of those who visit The Coast do so from the north, as I did on this particular journey. But the truly amazing TranzAlpine rail trip from Christchurch, through the rolling foothills of the Canterbury Plains and over Arthur’s Pass to Greymouth is also an option that should be seriously considered, especially by first-time visitors. The views of the Southern Alps – up close and personal – offered on that rail excursion literally take your breath away. On this expedition, I embarked on a leisurely drive down State Highway 6 from the Top of the South, stopping to take in the waters draining from the lakes of Rotoroa and Rotoiti as they gathered pace in a Buller River which become more turbulent as they approached the little town of Murchison. A rural servicing settlement of just 496, Murchison is steeped in history and was the epicentre of a huge earthquake, which

Murchison is known as the White Water Capital of New Zealand, and is the base of the Kayak School, as well as a range of other river-based activities, including fly fishing for giant brown trout. I could just have easily spent my entire day wandering around Murchison and its immediate environments, but with other adventures beckoning, it is time to hit the road again, with Westport, an hour’s drive away, now in my sights. Westport is the perfect base from which to explore the entire Buller region. As the Coast’s oldest town, it has more than a few stories to tell and over the next 24 hours, I learn much more than I have ever known about the mining history and the early European settlers who battled one of the most rugged environments encountered anywhere in Aotearoa New Zealand.

The Westport I-SITE has maps and information on the walks, activities and heritage experiences offered by this area and I’m so glad that I take up the recommendation of travelling on to the Cape Foulwind Walkway, 16 kilometres south west of the township. This walk takes me over a prominent headland to the Tasman Sea. The coastal vistas are spectacular. At its southern end of this picturesque bay is one of the most accessible seal colonies in New Zealand, with year-round viewing. The October to March period offers the best, with the seal pups so playful and a joy to be around. But be warned, the big bull seals do not welcome intrusions when they have procreating on their mind!

This is a quaint little town and it’s well equipped to handle the demands of visitors. The mining flavour flows right through the place, with many of its cafes, restaurants and pubs displaying memorabilia of days gone by. A full day can easily be spent within that locality and there’s a great array of attractions and activities. The all new Coaltown is a must-see and I find there is no better location to watch the sun go down than at nearby Carter’s Beach, with gourmet picnic dinner and an icecold Monteith’s Original Ale well and truly putting me ‘in the zone’. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

“Westport is the perfect base from which to explore the entire Buller region.” My final day takes me northward again, but this time along the coastal road, to Karamea, another little historic settlement. It’s just an hour and a half if you drive like Schumacher but who’d want to with so much to experience. At least one full day is required to get the most out of this place, but a longer visit is preferable. Fifteen minutes from Westport, I turn into the hinterland at Waimangaroa, climbing gradually to the Denniston Plateau, having heard the stories of what the locals of earlier times referred to as the eighth

wonder of the world. The remnants of the steep incline railway that carried coal 700 metres down to the coast is now designated as a category one historic place and my visit, fuelled by an insatiable thirst for knowledge, leaves me fully appreciative of the challenging conditions the coal miners and their families faced in the late 1800s and early in the century that followed. Taking up The New Denniston Mining Experience reinforces these difficulties. This interactive experience involves a train ride high above the Waimangaroa Gorge

and into an historic 1880s coal mine where I am allocated a task and put to work. So much for a holiday break! But I must say that the state of the art audio and visual effects really do simulate the harsh life of a Denniston miner. There’s so much more that can be written about, and experienced, on the road to Karamea. Small settlements that were written into the history of the West Coast on the backs of hard yakka provide a perfect opportunity to stop, to chew the fat with some real-life Coasters, and simply to learn. It’s an endless process, and one that ought not be rushed. Karamea really is one of the Coast’s hidden gems and it is with more than a touch of regret that I leave that picturesque place. Picture in your mind long empty beaches, river estuaries, native birds, beautiful sunsets and walks through the warm rainforest to incredible granite and limestone formations and you’ll begin to imagine why I harbour such feelings. It’s been three full days since I arrived on the West Coast of the Southern Alps and I’ve been able to see but a fraction of the natural world this simply stunning region has to offer. There are literally hundreds of experiences yet to be had and once again I vow to return to continue my journey of enlightenment, as I always do after coming away from this wild and wonderful place. And that’s my message. Just as those who ventured into this region in the early days of human habitation did nothing in a rush, nor should those who have followed them a century or more later.

Coal Creek Falls

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Hurrying and scurrying through life is a foreign concept in these parts, and it would be a brave man who would seek to challenge that. And in any event why would we want to do so when there is so much to see and do on ‘The Coast’?

IT TAKES A WHILE

About ten thousand years or so The tunnels of the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers take thousands of years to form yet change each day. To some it might be a large lump of ice, but we think after a few minutes youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see the light.

TO MAKE A WEST COAST ICE CUBE

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Hurunui

Savour a winter lunch in Waipara Lazy summer afternoons spent outdoors at Waipara’s wineries and cafes give way soon to cosy indoor settings as the region moves into winter mode reveals Patricia Hamilton.

Hamner Springs

Hurunui

ong lunches are still to be enjoyed in this beautiful valley, but instead of sunshine, they will most likely be eaten in front of a roaring open fire, in a stylish warm interior with great ambience, some really tasty hot food off new autumn/winter menus warding off the frosty bite outside. You can probably walk in anywhere midweek, but it’s advisable to book if you’re planning a weekend lunch. Pegasus Bay, awarded New Zealand’s

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best winery restaurant by Cuisine for the fifth consecutive year, loves the change of season, and Edward Donaldson, its marketing manager, says the food reflects the move, as much as possible gathered from their own garden. Pegasus Bay’s “feasting menu” for groups, is a popular choice when the temperatures drop. “It’s a two or three course option, with four different entrees, three different mains, and four desserts and it is a great casual,

interactive way of dining which people really enjoy.” Shared dishes, like the Pegasus Platter for two, are always popular, but every dish on the menu is designed as both a meal for an individual, but also suitable for sharing. Wine lovers will discover between five and 10 vintages of each variety on offer and also an older vintage and a current vintage available “by the glass.” Or you can select a half glass of each – for

Marble Point Restaurant

Hamner Springs gives warm welcome to stunning new winery restaurant The boutique Marble Point Winery sits on the banks of the Waiau River just 13 kilometres south of the centre of the Hanmer Springs village. The vineyard has been selling its wines locally, and has developed a name for itself in recent years with a great cellar door and tasting room. Opening this autumn is a newly constructed cafe, cellar door and function complex providing magnificent views up the Waiau River gorge. Owner and parttime chef Sheryl Dennis believes the views, the wines and the local produce will combine to produce a memorable experience for all who visit. Well know local chef Sue Patterson will be producing regional platters with homemade breads, chutneys and relishes, along with an ever changing selection of seasonal specialties. Open from 10am daily with the kitchen open to 3pm, this will be a new “must visit” for Hanmer visitors seeking a great local food and wine adventure to lift the day.

example a 2001 Riesling and a 2010 Riesling, which allows for some great discussion and comparisons. The Tasting Room and Cellar Door is open from 10am5pm daily and the restaurant from 12-5pm every day. At Mud House Winery and Café there’s a mouth-watering Osso Buco – Mud House-style using venison shanks – on the new winter menu, and a chicken stack with mushrooms, pesto and camembert to tempt, plus winter desserts like Sticky Date Pudding and Chocolate Tortes. Jenny Anderson, manager, says they’ve just released the Equinox range, their Waipara Hills Premium range, just the thing to accompany a fabulous lunch in a splendidly grand setting. Mud House is open seven days a week from 10am5pm, and there’s a wonderful fireplace roaring out a welcome for guests as they arrive.

The stylish Black Estate, only six months old, has become “a really busy place” says marketing manager Penelope Naish. Open from Thursday to Mondays from 10am-5pm, they’ve moved to a more substantial menu, whenever possible using fresh ingredients – organic or spray free spray - harvested locally. “We’ve got a simple short menu, with starters, entrées, mains and desserts, but we still have cheeseboards and charcuterie boards. “We want people to come and have a really lovely winter meal and enjoy the beautiful view over the vineyard down the valley and across to the main divide beyond.” There is always coffee and cake available, too if you’re pulling off the road to take a closer look at one of Waipara’s newer destinations. Luncheon guests can

enjoy a complimentary wine tasting. Waipara Springs welcomes the colder months, offering lunch by the fire and an earlier opening time, (10am-4pm) perfect for brunch – anyone for Eggs Benedict with hollandaise sauce or French Toast. Marketing Manager Dee Atkinson says other daily specials include Soup of the Day with Homemade Bread and Gourmet Pizza. Lighter meals include homemade Quiche with salad, and Chicken Terrine with chutney and crackers. Greek Chicken Souvlaki and a daily specials board provide more hearty fare. “We have Devonshire tea for group bookings of 10 or more, available until 3.30pm on weekdays, and we will have theme nights, starting at $25 a person for two courses. Those coming up include Thai, Best of British, Asian Flavours and Indian.” www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Tekapo/Mt Cook

Sanctuary for the Stars

Tekapo /Mt Cook

Day and night, the stars shine on Lake Tekapo. Special correspondent Fred Giles reveals how a ‘Star Sanctuary’ helps us see the heavens in its glittering glory.

t’s a lofty claim. “Lake Tekapo Sanctuary for the Stars: Home to the Darkest Night Skies in the World.” This was the headline of a news article I read online a few years ago which first spurred my interest in visiting Lake Tekapo, New Zealand. The darkest night skies in the world? I’ve been to some very rural and remote places in North America – how much darker could the sky become? According to the article, pretty dark. This town, I read, has strict ordinances on its outdoor lighting fixtures, requiring special dim, low-wattage, orange colored bulbs and little “top hats.” These measures prevent light from spilling into the night sky, creating the so-called “light pollution,” from which almost every town and city on the planet suffers. This prevents the stars, which have been

enjoyed for millennia, from being blocked out. As a result, the area has recently been recognized as a gold-level International Dark Sky Reserve, the largest of its class in the world, and is well on its way to becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Starlight Reserve. The awestruck visitors’ comments in the article coupled with my own personal fascination of viewing the stars in the same “light” as the ancients compelled me to form a pact with myself: I had to visit Lake Tekapo at the earliest available opportunity. That opportunity finally came, and as I drove into town, the magnificent Southern Alps rising behind the pristine, azure, glacier-fed Lake Tekapo, I knew I had arrived someplace special. I booked my first stargazing tour that night through the local organization Earth

and Sky, which provides night-time tours of some of the working observatories in town. I chose the premier location, Mount John University Observatory, nestled atop a modest mountain about 1000 meters above sea level. After our tour bus arrived at the summit and I stepped off, my eyes needed a few minutes to adjust to such an extreme and unfamiliar darkness. Once they did, however, it was unlike anything I had ever seen. So much! So much more than I had ever known in the sky was there – just overhead and all around. The stars were no longer meek little pinpricks I had known from living in the city, here they were multiplied a million fold, illuminating the vast regions of space. The formerly-fabled Milky Way was unmistakable, streaking through literally half of the deep, black sky – its immense galactic bulge towering above the horizon. It felt like I was in a painting, a movie; suddenly, it became www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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The AstroCafe at the top of Mt John Observatory is open to visitors during the day by car or by walking trail for a latte, or just a view of the spectacular Southern Alps.

clear why our ancestors believed these celestial elements were supernatural. As my head began to stop spinning from such infinite beauty, the tour began with our knowledgeable guide using a powerful laser pointer to highlight stars, constellations, planets, galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters. The scale of galactic distances and the enormity of celestial concepts can be a bit daunting, but our guide was exceptional at reducing the rather formidable works of Einstein, Newton, Hubble, etc. down to manageable, easily digestible morsels. It all just added to my already overwhelming sense of wonderment. For the bulk of our tour, we were given the opportunity to wander between several telescopes pointed at various celestial gems, as our friendly and passionate guides explained that at which we were looking. I beheld Jupiter with its giant red storms and four prominent Galilean moons. I saw our closest neighboring star system, Alpha Centauri, its binary nature impossible to miss. I viewed a globular cluster – over a million stars crowded together, each around twelve billion years old, easily some of the oldest objects in the universe. Then there was radiant Saturn, about the size of my thumbnail, with its glorious rings. It doesn’t get much better than seeing Saturn with your own eyes. It looked fake; it looked spectacular. The final part of our tour was a complimentary photo taken onsite by one of Earth and Sky’s professional astrophotographers. She had us freeze for several seconds like an old-timey photograph, the long exposure drawing out the stars from behind us. She later posted the picture online to Earth and Sky’s Flickr account where we could download, print, and share the image with friends and family. A very befitting keepsake from a memorable night at the observatory.

Telescopic Treasures There is a café at the top of Mount John that is open daily, so the following afternoon I decided to venture up and check out the

daytime view. There is a car path going up the mountain, but instead I opted for the one-hour hike to the summit which begins from Lake Tekapo’s very own hot pools. The trail is well kept and not so difficult and allowed me to mingle and exchange pleasantries with a surprising number of visitors from all around the world. Quite a happening little route. The view during the day was almost as stunning as the night (almost, but not quite!). One of our guides from the night before was on hand answering general questions and engaging the day visitors, and I decided to join him on a short day tour of the observatory. This allowed me to go inside the large research facility and see the MOA, New Zealand’s largest telescope. It was enormous – the large mirror alone is taller than I am! I also discovered that Mount John University Observatory is home to the first instrument to ever map the southern night skies. I loved witnessing the juxtaposition of more archaic but accurate analog “star cameras” with the state-of-the-art MOA telescope. To top it all off, I looked through a telescope and clearly saw a star in the middle of the day. Incredible! I was amazed at the resolving power of the telescopes. Afterwards, I took in the café’s unrivalled views while enjoying a freshly made sandwich and mocha – a perfect end to a most fascinating visit. The stars have been sacred to our species throughout mankind’s entire existence. Up until the advent of the light bulb barely one hundred years ago, all people scattered across the planet knew the night skies as I’ve attempted to describe above. This is why I came: I wanted to become better acquainted with that which my ancestors cherished. And whether or not it’s for one night or many nights, to stay in a town which protects and values this sacred connection or “right” to stars will undoubtedly stir something within, and give you the sense that you, too, can join this town in preserving a fundamental part of humanity.

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Encounter and Discover our Milford Sound

www.southerndiscoveries.co.nz Queenstown, 30 Shotover St â&#x20AC;˘ Te Anau, Lakefront Drive

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Queenstown

Photo: NZ Ski Ltd, Coronet Peak and Miles Holden

frolicking family fun

Queenstown

Even the most hard to please of children will soon be smiling by the varied attractions of Queenstown, as Kirsty Combes reveals

f the kids are happy, we’re all happy and I glance across at the beaming smile on my husband’s face, matched only by the ear-toear grins sported by the kids – 8 year old Emma and 10 year old Sarah. I’m feeling pretty content myself as the slow-moving current takes us down the Dart River in our Funyaks (inflateable canoes). The morning sun sparkles off the snow-clad mountains and glaciers of Mt Aspiring National Park; alluring rock pools and dramatic chasms with

impossibly turquoise water tempt us to explore further while duos of aptly named paradise ducks don’t seem bothered at all as our bright red canoes drift past. Sarah and I haven’t quite mastered paddling in-sync, but there’s nothing serious to contend with and compared to our home life in the UK, well, I’m feeling a little like Bear Grylls! A family holiday in Queenstown was an inspired idea I think smugly. It’s ticking all the boxes for the team; we’re packing show-stopping adventures into every day

and at age 8, high-spirited Emma gets to join in most of them! Arriving into Queenstown a week ago, the kids are on the edge of their seat – someone spots the TSS Earnslaw out on the water, completing the chocolate-box lake and mountain scene. Immediately a trip on the old steamship becomes a ‘must-do’. Oh, but look at the gondola! Rising up above Queenstown is the fir tree clad hill known as Bob’s Peak and crowning it, sitting on the skyline is, well the Skyline and we add a gondola ride to www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Photo: Ziptrek Ecotours

the top onto our ever-growing and exciting list. First things first, everyone’s keen to explore and even a walk along the lakeshore has something for everyone; it’s right in the town centre, so while the girls scamper along the beach, climb the very climbable trees and detour via the lakefront playground, Mick and I enjoy the vibes of this buzzy town centre where there’s music and artists in the street, gorgeous wee cafes and chocolate shops, and everyone seems to be wearing a smile.

Go Kidz Go! We’ve picked up Queenstown’s free family guide – Kidz Go Southern Lakes – to help us make our choices, and it could have been written just for us! Perfect! With a glass of local pinot in hand and the kids equipped with Patagonia’s enormous ice creams, Mick and I study Kidz Go. What an amazing place – there seem to be a hundred activities – Emma looks over my shoulder at the age guide. Adrenalin 96

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junkies can feel the fear in dozens of different ways, but if you’re after family challenges most of these activities are available, with restrictions, to children. Turns out being 8 isn’t going to keep her off the Ziptrek Flying Fox, jet boats, Funyaks or dozens of other pastimes we hadn’t heard of a week ago! It’s great to see that Queenstown’s adventure activity owners have made a point of not excluding families and the importance of providing a fun, safe environment for kids to experience some of the town’s ‘once in a lifetime’ challenges is reflected in the activities on offer. We learn that several companies have more than one trip option, keeping some of the scarier, trickier stuff back for the big boys and girls, but it’s fantastic to see how much our kids can join in with and the importance that activity operators clearly attach to their younger adrenalin-seekers (for example, extra guide for children, very friendly staff, child-size seats/harnesses/ wet suits).

SASSO I

Combine rustic but stylish Italian fare with the very best Central Otago produce and roaring fires – inside as well as out – and you have an idea of what Sasso is about... Come on in and find out for yourself!

Photo: Minus 5 ICEBAR

Meanwhile we may not go jet boating and bungy jumping everyday in England, but we love our family bike rides, we’ve heard of the Queenstown Trail and we have some ice cream to ride off. With over 100kms of do-able, family-friendly bike track to choose from, we pick an afternoon outing from Arrowtown to the AJ Hackett bungy bridge. There’s bike hire in Arrowtown, and if we don’t feel like riding back again, shuttle services will come and get us – how easy is that!

Arrowtown & AJ Hackett

03 409 0994 gm@sasso.co.nz

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St p am

Perfectly timed with growling tummies,

Time to strap those helmets back on, we’ve still a few kilometers of bike trail to tackle before rewarding ourselves with the most scenic hot tub we’ve ever seen. Onsen hot pools have private tubs with an opening wall that brings the dramatic Shotover River view that much closer. What a great finish to the day’s activities, although it’s not quite the coolest way to end the day – that would have to be a visit to the Minus 5 Ice Bar, where everything

14/16 Church St, Queenstown

The Trail has the wow-factor to match anything else we’ve done, and all for the price of bike hire! The section we’ve taken on includes riding across the superimpressive Edgar Suspension Bridge spanning the Arrow Gorge; we adopt different ride-styles, Sarah looking straight ahead and biking furiously to get across, Emma stopping to look down and gasp at the Arrow River tiny below her.

we arrive at the historic Kawarau Bridge that is home to AJ Hackett Bungy. Sarah’s already noted from our family guide that she is quite old enough to tackle a bungy jump but we satisfy ourselves with watching the jumpers as we tuck into our burger lunch. There are delighted whoops coming from behind us and we wander over to explore one of Queenstown’s newest activities – the Kawarau Zipride. The three ziplines over the Kawarau River each carry singles or tandems and we watch as an excited family of five takes off together, swooping along the Kawarau.

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“The Trail has the wow-factor to match anything else we’ve done” Photo: NZ Ski Ltd, Coronet Peak and Miles Holden

you see and touch is made of crystalclear ice with hand-carved sculptures, icy furniture and even ice glasses to drink from! Unbelievably with our adventures filling up our days from dawn to dusk and those in-between times happily taken up with panning for gold, checking out a real Kiwi at the Kiwi Birdlife Park and even a round or two of mini golf, we haven’t worked out how we’re going to fit in Queenstown’s number 1 winter activity – skiing!

Six of the best for skiers! Whether you’re like us and just want to have a play on the snow, or you’re bringing the family here on a ski vacation, Queenstown and nearby Wanaka host no less than six ski areas! The four ‘conventional’ resorts, Coronet Peak, The Remarkables, Cardrona and Treble Cone all have kids’ lessons and childcare as well as fabulous runs for all abilities and I’m pleased to see that our trusty Kidz Go has the low-down on their

family facilities. Meanwhile Snow Park offers a haven for tricks; it’s one giant terrain park, and Snow Farm gives you a chance to slow the pace with crosscountry skiing (with great support and options for the kids!) Wow – we can even take a ride on a snowmobile or strap on snowshoes for a

Photo: Onsen Hot Pools

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guided backcountry trip – this really is a world away from home life! Back to sipping our pinot and mulling over our choices, I realize we could bring the kids back to Queenstown every year and still do something different every day. And if I suggest a return trip next year, judging by the content faces around me, I reckon the whole family will put their hand up!

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Arguably the best facility of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, Highlands Motorsport Park opened its gates over Easter, reports Richard Channing.

he development has been described as a “Disneyland for motorsport fans” and the weekend’s events were the public’s chance to enjoy the ride. The brand new 4.5 km internationalstandard circuit is located near the township of Cromwell, approximately 50km from tourism mecca Queenstown on New Zealand’s spectacular South Island. Around 12,000 people turned up for the park’s opening festival and drivers and spectators showered the facility with praise. Those attending were able to explore the complex, which covers 88ha, includes three track configurations, a 48-garage Gasoline Alley, the National Motorsport Museum, gokart track and restaurant. The weekend festival celebrated 100

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years of motorsport and featured laps by about 60 diverse vehicles. Demonstration laps of New Zealand and internationally significant race cars from the early 1900s to now, included a state-of-the-art McLaren MP4 12C-GT3 supercar, right back to a 1906 Darracq Grand Prix car. Along with seeing cars driving around the track that are normally only seen in museums, members of the public were able to meet famous Kiwi race car drivers, enjoy good food and soak up the breathtaking Central Otago scenery. Celebrated New Zealand racing driver Jim Richards officially opened Highlands Motorsport Park on the first day and Sir Colin Giltrap - honoured in 2011 for his services to motorsport and philanthropy - cut the ribbon for the on-site National Motorsport Museum the following day.

A real crowd highlight was watching ultra-successful New Zealand race driver Craig Baird behind the wheel of Highland’s owner Tony Quinn’s McLaren MP4 12CGT3 supercar, setting the track’s lap record of 1.41:9. A Gold Coast-based Scottish businessman, Mr Quinn said the opening weekend was a satisfying celebration of hard work by hundreds of people. He credited everyone involved for their “passion and commitment” and described the incredible new facility as something the local community can be proud of. The new Highlands circuit was primarily constructed as an exclusive members-only facility, a concept successfully utilised in the Northern hemisphere, but new south of the equator. Great motorsport events will be held here, the first one being the Australian GT Series on

November 9/10, 2013. Highlands Motorsport Park will host the exciting finale of the Australian GT Series from November 8 - 10. The last round of six, it will feature top privateer drivers fighting for their championship wins in their race-bred Mercedes, Lamborghinis, Porsches, Ferraris and Audis. Drivers include top Australian V8 Supercar regulars Shane van Gisbergen in a Porsche GT3R and Craig Lowndes driving an Audi R8. Top Kiwi race driver Craig Baird (AMG SLS GT3) is one of the front-runners, as is Highlands’ owner Tony Quinn’s son Klark (Porsche GT3-R). Don’t miss your opportunity to see these incredible competitors battling it out in their amazing machines - on this side of the Tasman! Check the website www. highlands.co.nz for ticket details. Mr Quinn stresses that this will not be a one-off meeting. He has designed a transport system - building six 40-foot containers that will each house four cars – that will allow him to easily ship cars across the Tasman. “The plan is to bring www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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an Australian racing category to Highlands every year. I’m not talking V8 Supercars; I’m talking GT cars, things like Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Porsches, cars you don’t really see,” Tony said. The track has resource consent for 16 race days a year and Mr Quinn emphasises he doesn’t want to take business away from other South Island tracks. “I’m more interested in iconic races,” he explains, adding that Highlands Motorsport Park was built for annual special events, like Bathurst.

simultaneously or singularly as one main track. Combined they comprise the longest circuit in the country at 4.5 kilometres, (58,000m2 of track area) and can be raced in six different configurations. It is the only track in New Zealand that runs both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Manager Mike Sentch says it is unusual for race tracks to be so versatile and this “uniqueness” really sets Highlands apart from other motor racing circuits in New Zealand.

“In three years time I hope to look back and have established weekends for events and a good reputation with international car companies and race teams.”

“We’ve had an amazing response from corporate groups and car manufacturers wanting to do drive days and a lot of companies ringing to see what we can do as a package,” Mike said.

Highlands Motorsport Park’s three individual circuits are the core of this amazing new facility and can be used

The track has a real European vibe. Within clear sight of stunning snow-capped mountains during the winter months, the

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location is one of the driest places in New Zealand and is world-famous for its Pinot range of wines. Not surprisingly car companies are queuing up to launch their cars there and last month there were a total of three car launches at Highlands - with the first held by BMW showcasing its new M135i. Its not just car companies that can enjoy using the track as members of the Highlands GT Club pay a joining fee and annual fee, which varies according to how many track days they wish to have. They can bring their race or road cars for a day challenging themselves on the circuits. If they don’t want to keep trailering or driving their cars to Highland Motorsport Park there are 48 garages available for members in Gasoline Alley for annual lease on-site to store them in. Visitors can also have a go at go-karting, take an exhilarating FASTlaps ride in a Porsche GT3 Cup Car or visit the National Motorsport Museum with its café and gift Shop.

Motorsport Museum is one the development’s highlights and is described by its curator as hosting the best selection of historic racing cars in one place, in New Zealand. With regularly changing exhibitions, this facility will attract many motorsport enthusiasts from New Zealand and overseas. It was only a year ago that Mr Quinn purchased the Highlands Motorsport Park from the four previous directors who spent seven years obtaining the resource consent for the park. Now, just over a year later, the dream has become a reality. Many people have already said it is the best motorsport facility in Australasia.

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The Highlands Motorsport Park with its first-class facilities is also a great venue for your next corporate function, special occasion or conference. For a more extensive lunch or dining experience, visit the restaurant, café and wine tasting facility ‘The Nose’, located adjacent to the Motorsport Park. In fact, the Highlands National

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Wanaka

Wanderlust in Wanaka… Lavinia Hutchinson experiences warmth and scenery she will never forget Images provided by Lake Wanaka Tourism

t was Saturday morning and a travel buddy and I were headed on a road trip to catch up with a friend we’d met two months prior on a tour of the South Island. One place I couldn’t forget visiting on that trip was Wanaka, and I couldn’t wait to revisit and explore in my own time. We left Queenstown along Frankton Road and less than two kilometres into our journey saw two girls with their thumbs held out, holding a cardboard sign proudly displaying the

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word ‘Wanaka.’ We quickly pulled over, offering the girls and their oversized backpacks a lift, and all four of us were soon on our way. The car trip was an educational one; having two European hitchhikers in the back seat meant for interesting conversation and lots of laughs over a few misinterpreted words. With the radio crackling in and out of signal and farfetched tales of intention to travel from Germany to Poland on horseback, we

were in for a memorable ride. I had been told there were two roads to Wanaka; you could either travel across the infamous Crown Range or via the ‘safest’ route, State Highway 6. Not wanting to miss out any of the scenery or the opportunity to view a ‘Kea’ while driving a ‘Kia,’ we chose to cross the mountain. The morning sun shone over the Crown Range, its rays glistening off the ‘steep descent’ signs like stars in a night sky. Before we knew it, the captivating

mountains that appeared to be cradling Wanaka in its arms, were waiting to greet us. Delivering our newfound friends to their destination, we said our goodbyes and wished them all the best on their adventures. We met up with our friend and headed straight to the Speight’s Ale House for an early lunch. The first thing I noticed was how overdressed everyone was. I didn’t think a full-length sequined gown was appropriate daywear, however quickly established that there was a

of the beauty of the South Island. We ardently agreed and went on to discuss how a small town with an even-smaller population could capture the hearts of people from all over the world. Looking to purchase keepsakes, we ventured onto Helwick Street, which was lined with beautiful, independently owned boutique stores, adorned with fantastic wares. We conversed with storeowners and bought one of a kind pieces that would forever remind us of this magical

“Stunning scenery etched in our minds forever” wedding in town. We enjoyed a simple meal and were quietly singing along to ‘Suspicious Minds’, which was humming in the background, when a gentleman seated at the next table spoke out and said, “do you know who sang the original?” Without hesitation I responded, “that would have to be Elvis Presley, wouldn’t it?” In amazement that someone in their twenties actually knew the answer, a conversation begun. Our lunchtime neighbor was visiting from Texas with his wife, had been here for almost 21 days and was in awe

place. We continued to casually wander taking in the sights, never far from the mountain views, following us and staring like Mona Lisa. We ventured to the local ice-cream parlor and ordered oversized delicious treats, served up by the friendliest person in hospitality I’ve ever encountered. We headed to the Wanaka Hotel, our home for the evening, to check-in and plan our weekend. Located right in the heart of town on Ardmore Street, the hotel has everything to offer and more. Spectacular

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“Captivating mountains appeared to be cradling Wanaka in its arm”

views, rooms to suit all budgets and beds so comfortable you’d want to sleep for a week. Having 24-hour internet access was a nice surprise, and the tables and chairs to the front of the hotel meant you could observe passersby walking slowly, treasuring every moment of this unforgettable town. We were personally welcomed to the Wanaka Hotel by the owner, Jo, who handed us brochures and recommended plenty of things to see and do over the weekend. One event being held that day was Art in the Park; the coming together of wellknown local artists, musicians and poets to celebrate the biennial Festival of Colour Wanaka. We headed over to Minaret Lodge and strolled through the gardens, under trees adorned with chandeliers, their branches strewn with remnants of a piñata.

Puzzling World To help celebrate their 40th year in business, one of Wanaka’s most iconic tourist attractions has opened the doors of their new extension and like the rest of the unique business it’s proving to be a mind boggling success! The SculptIllusion Gallery marks Puzzling World’s biggest launch in over a decade – their fifth, and at 530m2, by far the largest Illusion Room. Themed around an illusionary sculpture garden, the Gallery invites visitors to wander around the various larger-than-life exhibits that showcase visual trickery at its best. Featuring over 20 large sculptures, artworks and displays the building itself offers illusionary aspects within its design. From Living Walls, wave ceilings, stone carpet and hanging waterfalls the visitor is met with stunning ideas that have made the project a complex undertaking for all concerned.

Wanaka sculptors Ernie Maluschnig, Chris Riley, Deane Weastall and Southlander, Russell Beck have pieces within the room along with a creation from the world reknown special effects team at Weta Workshops “this is a genuinely local project, showcasing incredible talent we have on our doorstep”, says manager Duncan Spear. Opened in time for the bumper crowds due into Wanaka the team at Puzzling World look forward to showing off their latest masterpiece to new and repeat customers this ski season.

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Photo: Gilbert van Reenan

Even the new toilet block has been given an illusionary treatment with amazing floor murals to send the user into a rubiks cube or jigsaw-themed abyss!

We admired the art, listened to the music and soaked up the atmosphere. A note left at a stall read “playing the ukulele – back at 2.30pm” captured the essence of the day perfectly. With our ears still pleasantly ringing from the music, we headed to Lake Hawea, a short but very picturesque 15-minute drive. On arrival we stopped for photos at the lakes edge, capturing the scenery, which was proudly displaying all of its beauty. Even the heavy clouds rolled in to say hello. The water looked choppy, but through this it was still quite obvious to see why you would want to drop off your jet-skis and go for a spin. We headed back to Wanaka, and on the way noticed an extraordinary view - Mount Iron. It’s namesake the obvious reason for its title,

a glorious ‘iron’ shaped mountain with a track ideal for those wanting a short but breathtaking walk that offers excellent 360-degree views of Lake Wanaka. Arriving back in town we pulled over at the gas station to fill the tires with air. A helpful cyclist assisted us; humored by the fact we didn’t quite know what we were doing. In appreciation I offered him a lift, but there wasn’t quite enough room in the back for his bicycle. I love the fact that no matter where you are, there’s always someone only too happy to help a damsel in distress. We returned to the Wanaka Hotel to freshen up, and after a change of clothes and the addition of a scarf, we headed next door to the Bullock Bar. Over pinot noir we chatted with the locals, conversation making it apparent that once you saw those mountains, that lake, their grasp would never let go and you would gladly end up staying here forever. We wrapped up warm, taking a brisk walk to Woody’s Bar to finish the evening fireside with a mulled wine (or two). After a restful nights sleep, we had a sumptuous breakfast in the Wanaka Hotel

guest kitchen, checked-out and thanked reception for their generous hospitality. We packed the car and headed to a fun-filled place called Puzzling World. It’s hard to miss the four Tumbling Towers and the Leaning Tower of Wanaka when driving past, prompting you to stop and view the crazy architecture. Feeling like Alice in Wonderland in an extraordinary place filled with intriguing things to see and do, each corner turned offered something for everyone of all ages. There’s no escaping the Hall of Following Faces, before entering the distorted Ames Room, then there’s the captivating Hologram Hall, paintings that feature two very different scenes and not to forget the Roman bathhouse. Even the restrooms will make you smile. There’s certainly plenty of puzzling eccentricity to keep you entertained for hours. With our photo filled cameras and mementos, stunning scenery etched in our minds forever, it was time to head home. We travelled along the tree-lined road, autumn leaves waving goodbye as we fare welled a place you could never forget. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Dunedin

Dunedin hot’s up in Winter By Amanda Taylor and John Ashworth

Dunedin

Join a crowd of thousands at Dunedin’s annual Midwinter Carnival to celebrate the most magical night of winter.

ehold the kaleidoscopic beauty of the lantern parade celebrating the winters longest night, with gorgeous giant lanterns, stunning performances and dazzling costumes - not to mention the fireworks, the wonderful food stalls, music and fire performance. Prior to Carnival night locals are invited to attend a series of public lantern making workshops held

throughout the community, and on the night these hand-made lanterns are paraded through the centre of the city to the banging of drums and much merry-making. The celebrations encourage and support the employment of talented local artists and greater participation in the arts by the wider community. The Carnival celebrates the importance of Dunedin’s distinct seasons in a way that is appropriate to the local

environment and the southern hemisphere. Each year a new theme is created that encompasses the whole event, from the giant lanterns to the costumes. 2013 promises to be another enchanting and awe-inspiring experience for the people of Dunedin, with the theme of ‘Journeys of Discovery’. Join in the magical fun at Dunedin’s Midwinter Carnival 2013 www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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A haunting monument to a troubled man Annie Walker recalls the tragic history of one of Dunedin’s pioneering businessmen that led to Dunedin having New Zealand’s only castle and a haunted one at that!

ituated nearly 300 metres above the Otago Peninsular with almost unsurpassed views of harbour, coastline and the environs of Dunedin lies Larnach Castle. With its Scottish baronial styles, this imposing building has an equally grandiose interior, with intricately carved ceilings and staircases showing an Italian influence. Now, loving restored to its former glory, by current owners the Barker Family, Larnach castle is enjoying happier times as one of Dunedin’s must see attractions. But it is a building with a lingering sense of sadness. There have been reports of dozens of cranky spirits and strange goings on.

When the crew of the TV2 series Ghost Hunt filmed there in 2005, the ghostbusters captured what looked like a spectre on camera. The US show Ghost Hunters International sought to debunk such claims of supernatural activity but its camera caught what looked to be a ghost in the ballroom. If New Zealand had to have a haunted castle in our relatively young country, Larnach Castle would be it. William Larnach was originally born in Australia in 1833. He developed a career in banking and came to Dunedian in 1867 with wife Eliza, their four children and Eliza’s sister Mary. A remote hilltop for their new home did not suit the grim-faced Eliza. Though www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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es coveri ern Dis maran South ta a w c e n n of the enstow e Wakatipu image pirit of Que on Lak ncept S

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just 20 minutes drive from Dunedin today, it was totally isolated in the pre-road colonial era. After having two more children, Eliza suddenly died of a stroke aged 38 and William promptly married her younger, prettier sister Mary, who also died at 38 of blood poisoning. His business career fared little better, with him often on the verge of bankruptcy. He had a stormy political career too as a Dunedin MP. A third marriage was also troubled, with the 57-year-old taking the hand of the pretty Constance, who at 35 was a similar age to his children. Five years later, it became too much as he teetered on the edge of bankruptcy and

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spectacular marble staircase,. The rooms are all double glazed and the reception rooms are all heated by open fires and under floor heating. Camp Estate offers total privacy. The options of accommodation and sightseeing at The Castle is immense and it is a must do visit for anyone arriving in Dunedin. Travel New Zealand rate this accommodation and attraction as a TOP 5 NZ visit.

Tnz Top Pix his favourite daughter Kate died. Larnach opened a letter which contained news of his adored wife’s affair with his son Douglas and he promptly ended his days by shooting himself in a parliamentary chamber, aged 62. After battling over his unsigned will, the family disbanded, selling off the castle which was later used as a home for recovering soldiers and as a mental hospital. In 1967, the Barker family bought the property and have lovingly restored the buildings and grounds. They don’t dismiss the ghostly presence, saying William keeps an eye on the lower floor, especially the boardroom and billiards room, while Eliza prefers to keep watch upstairs. Ghosts aside, there are many reasons to visit New Zealand’s only castle, which the Barkers have opened to the public. Pass the stone lions and carved eagles at the entrance, you will enjoy buildings of Italian marble, venetian Glass, Welsh slate, English tiles and native New Zealand and kauri.

garden is a wonderful setting to sit and enjoy a light meal or perhaps share a bottle of wine in the outdoor café. The garden still retains a sense of mystery, with unexpected nooks and crannies, exploring this remain a pleasure for all ages. Camp Estate is a luxurious country house, positioned on Larnach castle land. It is a ten-minute walk from the house to the front door of Larnach castle or one kilometer from door to door. The house is built from Blue Stone and features a

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The four-floor castle is vast and sprawling, with a central hanging-spiral staircase, and cherubs carved on the ceiling of the elaborate dining room. The castle’s collection of colonial furniture has grown, with the return of some of William Larnach’s original pieces and the purchase of some of the best examples of New Zealand made colonial furniture being added to the collection. Visitors are always astounded by the extraordinary quality of the craftsmanship when they visit the castle. In 2008 the garden was assessed as a ‘Garden of International Significance’ by the New Zealand Gardens Trust. This 114

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Phone 03 476 1616 • Email booking@larnachcastle.co.nz www.larnachcastle.co.nz

Fiordland

Our Southern Winter Wonderland The highlight of any South Island tour is the stunning splendour of the drive to Milfrod Sound, writes James Wilmott-Brown

or the traveller yearning for the tranquillity and adventure afforded by places slightly off the beaten path, pristine Fiordland in wintertime should be at the top of the list of places to visit and explore. Last winter, my wife and I did a road trip of the South Island. We loved the landscapes of rural New Zealand with gently rolling hills and towering mountains. Likewise, we enjoyed picnicking along New Zealand’s rugged coastline hearing the sound of the waves crashing against the rocky coastline and smelling the salty aroma of the sea air. Yet of all the wonderful places we visited in New Zealand, none left as indelible an impression as Fiordland. Fiordland is an unspoilt region on the southwest corner of New Zealand’s South Island. It is New

Zealand’s largest area of pure wilderness and much of it has remained virtually untouched since the first humans arrived in New Zealand.

A town of charm

Our journey in Fiordland began in the quaint town of Te Anau, nestled along a lake by the same name. The town has about 3,500 year round inhabitants, but the population can swell to more than 10,000 during the peak summer months as tourists and holidaymakers from around the world flock to Fiordland. In winter, however, the flow of visitors recedes, handing the traveller the opportunity to savour Te Anau’s immense charm with fewer companions. Although Te Anau is quieter in winter, much of the town remains open for business.

The first thing that struck us about Te Anau was the breadth of dining options available. Te Anau has a wide variety of independently owned restaurants and cafes offering foods ranging from local Kiwi cuisine such as prime New Zealand lamb or steak to delicious Italian pastas and Chinese dishes from the opposite side of the globe. You can enjoy your meal whilst savouring some local New Zealand wine. Even a fussy vegetarian like me was able to choose from a variety of tasty treats. After our fantastic meal, we took a leisurely sunset stroll along the lake. The panorama of the snow-capped mountains opposite a clear lake was splendid. We absorbed the serenity of the surroundings and simply paused for a moment to reflect on nature’s beauty. The hustle and bustle of the city was www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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another world amidst such idyllic settings. Another feature of Te Anau that we enjoyed was the friendliness of the locals. Drivers in cars would motion for us to cross the street in front of them and the staff at the hotel where we stayed were genuinely hospitable. They were eager to answer our questions and knew the Fiordland region extremely well. The following morning, we departed for Milford Sound to sail on one of the highly acclaimed Milford Sound cruises. The 120 km (75 mile) drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound is undoubtedly the most scenic in New Zealand and arguably one of the most phenomenal drives in the world. Words cannot adequately convey the grandeur of the scenery. In places, the road meanders along the mountainside providing terrific views of crystalline rivers in the valleys below. In other areas, the road traverses through contrasting landscapes such as alpine tundra or rainforests containing centuries old trees. The road is a destination in itself and offers a number of turnouts and some short walks where the traveller can stop to take pictures and capture the moment. Its is worth noting that it takes approximately two and a half hours to cover the 120 km without stopping given the steep and windy nature of the road.

Towering mile-high mountain

It is possible to drive the Milford Road in winter, but it is compulsory to have chains in your vehicle. A better alternative for many travellers is to book a coach excursion with one of the coach operators such as Southern Discoveries, Fiordland Tours, or Real Journeys. The coaches have large

windows, allowing the traveller to enjoy the scenery without having to concentrate on driving, and the driver provides a narrated tour of the region. The coaches also stop at the best points along the road giving you freedom to roam about and take pictures of the spectacular scenery. We reached Milford Sound in late morning and found our ship. The day was sunny, but breezy. The cold air exuded freshness as it had rained earlier in the morning. Our ship sailed out past the iconic Mitre Peak, a towering mile-high mountain that dramatically rises straight out of the water. Along the fiords, we also saw numerous waterfalls thanks to Fiordlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s staggering amount of rain, averaging over 6 metres per year! One interesting fact about Milford Sound is that although it empties directly into the ocean, Milford Sound receives so much rain that a freshwater layer exists above the salt water underneath. We even went up close

and saw some seals lazily relaxing on the rocks. After completing our cruise, we headed back south along the Milford Road to Te Anau. The return leg of our journey was even better because this time we had ample time to make stops. One memorable detour was a stop at The Chasm for a short walk. The level walk takes about twenty minutes and passes by some amazing waterfalls. The rainforest has several species of beech trees native to New Zealand and the forest floor boasts numerous types of mosses. The two most remarkable things were the freshness of the air and the vibrant green colours of the plants. Despite it being winter, we could still hear the melodious singing of the native birds in the background. We even had several curious keas, a native New Zealand parrot, approach us as we exited the forest. Thanks to our frequent stops, the return

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“Pristine Fiordland in wintertime should top the list of places to visit and explore.” emit an amazing light in the dark. Alternatively, travellers can visit the Fiordland Cinema and watch the hourly screenings of Ata Whenua, a short film showcasing Fiordland’s incomparable beauty in exquisite detail. The film took several years to make and features aerial footage of the most beautiful and practically inaccessible places in Fiordland. One can also enjoy coffee and local wines along with other contemporary films at the Fiordland Cinema.

Untouched Fiorldland leg took us over four hours. We arrived in Te Anau in the early evening after a fantastic day and enjoyed another great meal. Despite Te Anau’s small size and some businesses closing during the quieter winter months, the town has many available activities and definitely merits more than a single night’s stay. For example, travellers can sail across Lake Te Anau and visit the Te Anau Glowworm Caves where a guide will transport you through a network of caves. You will have the opportunity to see thousands of tiny luminous glowworms that

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Other activities worth doing during the quieter winter months are the Doubtful Sound cruises or visiting the Manapouri Power Station, New Zealand’s largest hydroelectric power plant. For those that enjoy kayaking and other active pursuits, Roscos Milford Kayaks remains open in winter. Likewise, Luxmore Jet offers its jet boating excursions on the Waiau River during the winter months. The jet boat trip passes through several of the river locations used during the filming of the Lord of the Rings. Travellers should

also consider booking a scenic flight by helicopter, fixed wing, or float plane and enjoy the wondrous beauty of seeing the most untouched places in Fiordland from the sky. As for accommodation, a wide range of options is available to the winter traveller. Te Anau offers several thousand beds and accommodation options cater to all types of travellers across all budgets. Much of Te Anau’s accommodation is located on Lakefront Drive, right next to Lake Te Anau. However, those that prefer something a bit more off the beaten path might consider the lodges and B&Bs outside town. Despite the fact that you may well need a hat and coat when holidaying in Fiordland in winter, the region remains a terrific place to visit during the quieter winter months. The region is spellbindingly beautiful and has countless winter activities that make it a fabulous destination in itself. The southern winter wonderland of Fiordland certainly proved the highlight of our South Island journey and our only regret was not having more time to spend in this extraordinary region.

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Milford

My Way or the Sky Way By Gary Cody

short shuttle ride from downtown Queenstown and I was soon in the fixed wing Glenorchy Air Piper beside a delightful, informative pilot on my way to Milford Sound. I was about to enjoy the spectacular Milford Sound that over 6000 passengers aboard the Queen Mary 2 had enjoyed only a few days earlier. Arguably the largest vessel to ever enter Milford Sound the passengers were treated to the spectacular visual picnic that this wonderful piece of nature offers. Growing up in this region and having visited this spectacular spot many times I still jump at any offer to write about this magical place. Southern Discoveries along with Glenorchy Air manage this amazing journey and it does cut out the 8 hours 120

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of driving if you choose to go the road way. It is only some 40 kilometers from Queenstown in a straight line however the long and winding, although spectacular, is over 300kms. The plane ride is a mere 20 minutes however the scenery from the cockpit is breathtaking. Over some of Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks most famous and well known mountain peaks. Mini glaciers and large glaciers abound with white and even blue ice sparkling below the plane on our way across the Great Divide. Landing in Milford with an approach from the mouth of the sound or rather a fjord takes the plane along the length of this magnificent piece of Mother Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skilled sculpture. Asking about the draft at the mouth I was later informed it was way

deep enough for any huge liner to pass over. Formed by glaciers the fjords are even deeper than the mountains that rise spectacularly straight up from the from the depths below. On landing one would have sworn there was an aviation convention on in Milford that day. There were over 20 helicopters and nearly as many fixed wing aircraft lined up along the pads and tarmacs. It certainly was proof that today’s travellers do not want to miss any of this countries attractions and time is of the essence. The affordability of these excursions makes for a very popular option. The option of a 5-minute walk to the boat terminal was taken and wandering through some native New Zealand forest with its familiar smell was a nice way to prepare for the boat trip on the water. Embarking was seamless and simple with a cheerful welcome from the friendly and informative crew. These people are amazing. They will welcome you aboard with even more gusto than the infamous “Love Boat” then next minute they are serving food and beverage not only to be spotted later in the day guiding people through the water in the fabulous canoe option that Southern Discoveries offers.

The vessel is so well appointed with all the fresh clean facilities any traveller may require. Continual free tea and coffee with a hearty Kiwi Style lunch around midday. It is also encouraged that one visits the “Skipper” on the bridge and have a casual chat once the vessel is under way and clear of jetty and other boats. His knowledge of the area is deep and his skill with the vessel very impressive.

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Southland

Gore blimey! Just so stunning! By Jenna Wade

Southland

Bluff Oyster Festival

Amidst Eastern Southland’s verdant pastures and rolling hills lies a surprising discovery – a treasure trove of history, culture and recreation.

he area’s farming foundations remain as strong today as they were when the pioneers first forged the land, but nowadays Eastern Southland’s gaining a name for much more than its rural allure. I was stunned at what Gore – population just 9,500 – has to offer. Locals are the first to admit, rural Southland’s the last place you’d probably expect such a considerable mix of cultural and historic nuggets. In 2003, the Eastern Southland Art Gallery firmly stamped itself on New Zealand’s art trail, unveiling the John

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Money Wing, home to the renowned sexologist’s extensive private collection. It’s a diverse display of 300 major New Zealand, Australian, Aboriginal, African and contemporary American works. The gallery alone attracts thousands of art lovers, astonished at the breadth and significance of the permanent exhibition. Dr Money’s gift is the cornerstone, though the support of other gallery “friends” makes for a holistic artistic experience. Among the luminaries’ contributions, the late Ralph Hotere donated numerous works, ranging from large canvas to lithographs, which stand

alongside pieces from private collectors. Poet Hone Tuwhare has entrusted his personal collection to the gallery’s care. While Gore is famed for its fine art, many are drawn by keepsakes of this area’s colourful heritage. The Hokonui Heritage Centre remembers a bygone era of a region that saw the last of the Maori inter-tribal wars fought on its lands, lands that also drew thousands over 150 years, eager to make their fortune from gold. The Scots who settled in Eastern Southland brought with them their love of whiskey – and more than a dram of

determination. So began a hive of industry in the hills overlooking Gore. Illicit stills cropped up everywhere, flourishing, even in the face of 51 years of Prohibition. The legends live on at the Hokonui Moonshine Festival and the Hokonui Moonshine Museum, all part of the heritage centre, which brings to life more than 120 years of moonshining. Ten minutes drive from Gore, you’ll find one of New Zealand’s oldest airfields,

Mandeville. Today, fittingly, it’s home to The Croydon Aircraft Company, world leaders in the restoration of classic 1930s and vintage de Havilland aircraft - world leaders who share their craft with the public. Watch the restorers at work and, for a thrill beyond compare, soar the skies in a Tiger Moth or, for the daring, an adrenalin-filled acrobatic joy ride may beckon. Southerners throughout Eastern Southland have preserved their past with pride, but attractions set firmly in the present abound, too. One of the most popular events on the calendar is The New Zealand Gold Guitar Awards. Staged every June in Gore, the awards cap off a 10-day country music festival, bringing in visitors from throughout Australasia. Eastern Southland is also very much “in vogue”. The annual Hokonui www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Fashion Design Awards are one of the key platforms for up-and-coming designers from throughout the country to test their talent before a judging panel. The event features some of the biggest names in New Zealand couture. Past judges have included of the event have included Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper, Kate Sylvester, Margi Robertson and Benny Castles.

26-27 JULY 20I3 Gore I Southland I New Zealand

Enter Now To Win $34,000 in prizes! OpEN ENTrY SEcTIONS:

Streetwear, Nightlife, Wool, Steampunk, Mens Apparel, collections, Silver

SchOOL SEcTIONS: (Primary-Secondary)

Streetwear, Nightlife, Steampunk, Denim

(Entries close 4th June 2013) For entries and ticket information visit:

www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com www.hokonuifashion.co.nz

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A world away from the catwalk, runs the Mataura River, another of Eastern Southland’s renowned attractions. Its waters are a magnet for international anglers, keen to test their skills on one of the best brown trout fishing rivers in the world. Local fishing experts can guide you, sharing their “insider knowledge”, or try your own luck – top spots are numerous and easy to get to. Wherever you go, the trout are as canny as they are plentiful; a catch is never a given, but the beauty and serenity of the location is guaranteed. As Southland’s second largest centre, Gore offers most major services and facilities. As for relaxing after taking in the myriad of sights and experiences, you’ll discover Eastern Southland’s dining and accommodation choices are as numerous and interesting as its attractions. Make

sure you visit the Thomas Green Public House & Dinning Room when there, it was recently voted ‘best new / redeveloped bar / restaurant at the 2012 New Zealand Hospitality Awards 2012’. From fine art to high fashion, moonshine to museums, fishing the Mataura to sightseeing high in a Tiger Moth, Eastern Southland is one of those rare finds that really does offer a memorable treat for everyone.

The New Zealand we all dream of

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Southland, NZ Southland_NZ

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+64 3 211 0895

ring to mind tropical islands"

visit@southlandnz.com www.southlandnz.com

- Josh Gale, Wilderness

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