Travel New Zealand Autumn 2013 by Waterford Press Limited

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NZ 11.95 EUR 9.50 USA 12.50 AUS 12.95 INR 450

Autumn Edition 2013

AN ALL-TIME

HIGH

EXTREME ADVENTURE

CRAFT BREWING WINTER ENTREE GOLFING ADVENTURES

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ine and magaz el New Zeal av Tr r fo d Forewor sit, I’d coming to vi p considering re anning a tri u’ pl yo re If u’ . ld us, I hope yo rt of the wor e pa se to tic as en nt d is a fa already be New Zealan And if you’ve u to do so. yo e ag ur enco ady and Kiwis are re back soon. ew Zealand, N n w do d d up an r country, an s to offer. proud of ou Zealand ha ew N at We are very th thrilling st be e th f of , and many ow ine and food w waiting to sh us io lic de culture, ery, a unique ayground. tanding scen adventure pl ts d ou ne ve ow ha en -r We ld or w a mighty at make us oast , to the activities th nd’s W est C la Is th ou S ne to see. rds of the iers and fio ng for everyo unning glac e is somethi er th , au From the st te time out la P take some the Central ne stream or pi volcanoes of al an in fish for trout aori marae, traditional M a e nc ie er Exp an array of eco resort. atch it with at a spa or orld, and m w e th in sh food . uce. the best fre of our prod ste some of t get enough n’ ca ld You could ta or w d bungy the er rafting, an cal wines – g, white-wat delicious lo in at bo t je m lf courses. a thrill – fro than 400 go ways to get one of more e so many ar on e g in er th ay And king or pl er in our little mountain-bi ore to discov n jumping, to s always m e’ er shores agai r Th ou d. to New Zealan you’ll return in pe e ho tim t e W ea . have a gr always open I hope you our door is world, and e th of er corn soon. s, Best wishe

Key Rt Hon John ISTER IN M E IM R P

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EDITOR’S CORNER Editor in Chief Gary J Cody gcody@acornpublishing.biz +64 211 469909 Managing Editor David McEwen Golf Editor Steve Khatib Director of Business Development Kendall Twigden IT Manager Rob Andrews Senior Designer Daniel Grey Content Manager Adrienne Zamor-Bongout Account Manager Aaron Waata awaata@acornpublishing.biz Account Manager Arianna Lopez alopez@acornpublishing.biz Account Manager Gerry Jago gjago@acornpublishing.biz Australasian and International distribution by: Speedimpex Australia Pty Ltd Pansing IMM Australia Pty Ltd Digital In-Flight Jetstar Gordon & Gotch Auckland Office Level 2, 14 Viaduct Harbour Avenue Auckland CBD 1010 New Zealand Free call: 0800 226 762 International: +64 9 375 6057 Queenstown Office Level 1, 11-17 Church St, Queenstown, New Zealand New Zealand Free call: 0800 226 762 Melbourne Office 76 The Boulevard, Ivanhoe Victoria 3079, Australia Ph: +61 4 16 326 464 Published by

ISSN 2200-5021 (Print) ISSN 2200-5013 (Digital) www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Kia Ora Again in this issue the ever-fearless “Mitch” takes on another serious challenge. Climbing in the Mount Cook National Park, in conditions that were both unfavourable and perfect, is an experience not many of us will ever know much about. However, get close to the action with this great read and feel what it is like. Beer is an international refreshment with countries being judged on the brands and the flavours they produce. It is also a great topic of conversation. Craft or boutique breweries have made a great surge and now over 30 per cent of the country’s consumption is being brewed at small local breweries. Enjoy a word on the Kiwi industry that is on the charge. Winter is not far away and there is a little entree to what NZSki will be offering this coming season. Boarding and skiing will again dominate our visitors’ activities this season. Steve Khatib, our Melbourne-based Golf Editor, plays Auckland and lets us know the score on these beautiful scenic courses. In my ‘Revisited’ series, it was Rotorua that played host. The best cultural experience of a lifetime I witnessed, at Tamaki Maori Village, rafting, mountain biking and lots of nice food made my stay a real treat. Read about it in the Rotorua section. Enjoy this edition and look forward to our big winter feature in our June offering. Hei konā mai

CONTENTS EDITOR’S CORNER 6 AN ALL TIME HIGH 8 100% ECO 22 WINTER ENTREE 28 CRAFT BREWING 34 GOLF 38

REGIONS SOUTHLAND

FIORDLAND

DUNEDIN

ARROWTOWN

QUEENSTOWN

TEKAPO MT COOK

AKAROA

HURUNUI

WEST COAST

BULLER

MARLBOROUGH

NELSON

WELLINGTON

ROTORUA

100

TAUPO

108

THE COROMANDEL

112

AUCKLAND

114

NORTHLAND

124

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AN ALL TIME

HIGH

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by Mitch

A vortex of sparkling powder swirls over our colourful huddle. The whine of the lethal blades whip the sky into a noisy blur. The engine revs into a final roar and the chopper lifts off the snow, banks sideways and fades off down the mighty Tasman glacier. I watch it morph into a tiny speck. Silence. There is no turning back nowâ&#x20AC;Ś the adventure of a lifetime is upon me.

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Helicopter lands on the Tasman neve

I had wished for this moment and now it is really happening. I am one of a group of nine just landed on the neve of Tasman glacier and we are beginning our technical mountaineering course with Alpine Guides based in Mt Cook, New Zealand.

Bill Atkinson is our head guide. He is cool, calm and one hell of an instructor. He describes his incredible life journey in the most humble way but, wow, he has experienced some wild adventures. As the nine day course unfolds, so do some layers of Bill’s amazing odyssey. Being one of the rock climbing and alpine climbing pioneers in the seventies, he lives and breathes this wonderful world and has had a hand in many of the alpinists of today becoming as great as they are. Internationally recognised, he has scores of mind-boggling expeditions under his belt as well as 20 years of guiding on Mt Cook and ski patrolling at Mt Hutt. He reminds me of wise Yoda from Star Wars, quietly commanding respect and his dry humour rocks my world! I love entertaining storytellers and Bill Atkinson is a master. Getting up from my heli-crouch, I stretch out and look around. Sir Edmund Hillary’s words ring true when he said “It’s an act of worship just to sit and look at high mountains”. Oh yes, now that I stand here, I see what he means. It is hard to believe I was in the lap of luxury at the Mt Cook Hermitage Hotel just three days ago.

My favourite bit of hardware in the museum is the first ever ski plane, the ZKBDX, and she hangs from the ceiling. Now, 10

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Nzone Skydive

That lovely hotel is a creature of deliciousness, an oasis of luscious cuisine and extraordinary history. It has seen some mighty men come and go and stoically remains a retreat for many climbers and tourists alike. It is also home to the Alpine Guides’ base. My room had spectacular north-facing views and each huge glass window pane had a little sticker of Sir Edmund’s portrait in the centre of it. Nice touch. After enjoying delectable New Zealand salmon, I wandered through the modernised foyers feeling rather cool in my Earth Sea Sky mountain wear, ( I was about to find out how amazing that gear really was!) and was mesmerised by the glorious art collections. Oils of Mt Cook by Peter Beadle with light dancing on her slopes, caught my eye. The romantic emotional pull that the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre flooded me with was exciting and unexpected.

that old girl could tell some stories. Harry Wigley piloted the Auster aircraft, the first ski plane using a retractable ski on 22 September 1955, with Alan McWhirter as passenger. Another passenger on that historic day was Sir Edmund Hillary. Ah, Sir Ed, the one who showed us how to realise our dreams… and here I am standing at the top of the Tasman Glacier realising my dream. My New Zealandness bubbles proudly inside me because of him. This is a truly magnificent experience. I am spellbound by the enormity of it all, but there is no time for my icebound awe as our guides launch us into action. I attach the 12-point crampons to my state-of-the-art Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX climbing boots. These babies are made in Italy and serious research has gone into their high altitude design. They are the Lamborghini of climbing boots, extremely lightweight with a vivid display of shock absorption layers throughout the heel plate. Aside from all the flashy colours they are serenely comfortable, considering the unrelenting harsh conditions they are built to stomp up. I have been blessed with top quality gear from head to toe. As well as keeping feet in good nick, eyewear is also a main priority. Avoiding snowblindness from this bright, white land is important as well as taking care not to sunburn into a blistery mess. Regular applications of effective 30-plus sun cream are a must and windburn too can be ugly so bandanas are perfect for protection. My wraparound Smith sunglasses prove to be worth their weight in gold. They are as light as a feather with friction grips on their arms so they are lovely to wear but

Fresh out of the helicopter I am the beginner girl. The climbing gurus have had a couple of clients like me before: “All gear and no idea!”

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Moody Mt Aylmer

Lenticular clouds warn us of the incoming storm

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My TMC team - a grand blend of people

stay on my face in extreme high winds. Keeping my big green eyes safe is a relief, being blinded up here in no man’s land is something to be completely avoided. Oh, and Ivan at Outside Sports in Queenstown, you were right about the icebreaker socks, they are perfect. Quality…you gotta love it. Fresh out of the helicopter, I am the beginner girl. The climbing gurus have had a couple of clients like me before: “All gear and no idea!” My life in Queenstown taught me about mountains in a skiing, paragliding sort of way. I understand how to read mountain weather and a little about avalanches, but ropes, ice tools and crampons are a whole new world for me. Many of my friends have been up Everest, K2 and various other Himalayan mountains, guiding, filming or just climbing. The Alpine Guides Technical Mountaineering Course is a fabulous way for me to experience a taste of their climbing lifestyle and to learn things that real climbers execute automatically. Now to rope up in pairs for glacier travel. A figure eight tied off through my harness, excess rope in my pack, a half hitch at the five metre mark of my end of the rope clipped in to a screwgate caribiner, my ice axe clasped in a pistol grip on the uphill side and my Leki telescopic hiking pole on the downhill side. I tie on my bagged box of food to tow and I am ready. I assume we will climb straight up to the hut but I am well off the mark and if it had been up to me I would have wandered straight into a rather large hidden crevasse. The recent snowfall has entirely covered any clues that it is there. The line we take, led by our incredibly knowledgeable guides, is a zigzag and completely avoids my life-threatening assumption. The guides poke and jab at the slope in front with gusto and point out the sneaky abyss. It’s huge and goes for ages. 14

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The lads self arrext with ice axes

Well…that’s an intimidating wake up call.

John and Ben tow provisions

We tow our provisions around a couple of crevasses up to Kelman Hut, named after the Australian mountaineer Jill Kelman. It’s a corrugated iron construction perched on the apex of the Tasman and Murchison glaciers. It reminds me of “Moonbase” from the seventies tv programme “Space 1999”. Very cool… but even more of a brain blowout was thinking about who were the gutsy lads that built it way up there on that rocky precipice in the first place. I’m picking it was someone that understood the importance of safe havens in such a desolate land - probably had a penchant for stunning views too!

Bill Atkinson and the Kelman hut in the distance

The last storm has caused a snowy wind drift to build up to roof height over the hut access. I am kitted with sharp steel hardware on my feet and my ice axe in hand so a brief steep icy ascent up to the roof and down to the door is all just part of it. On the hut tour we discover that this is not the place for randomly strolling around. Ten meters from the balcony there is a major verticle dropoff into the Murchison glacier that would please any basejumper. Behind the hut off a higher cliff is a rock climbing route for the very experienced. What a wonderland. What an inspirational breed of folk who come to play here. Mt Cook seems a magnet for extraordinary people. The two previous days saw me hunkered down at Unwin Lodge at the base of the valley while a colossal storm smashed into the Main Divide and Mt Cook village, stopping flights of any type. We were grounded, but the TMC course went on. My group

Every outing our guides drum into us how dangerous crampons can be. All day we are coaxed “Wide stance!” “Feet apart.”

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John commits over the ice wall

underwent intense rope and abseiling instruction under shelter. A gorgeous unassuming young woman spotted that I was like a startled goldfish on this subject and helped me get the concept of the fisherman’s, munter and clove hitch knots. Thank goodness for her and her wickedly blue eyes. She said her name was Bridget. She had a sunburnt forehead from climbing (she didn’t say where) and was getting pretty excited about a bike ride for charity with her friend Sarah. Well I never…tonight as I write this I see on the national news that it is Sarah Wilson (48) and Bridget Janse - my laughing blue-eyed Bridget - who have just completed an incredible journey named the Cook to Cook Challenge as a fundraiser for the Melanoma Foundation of New Zealand.

It’s a rowdy festival of thunder and lightning but I am exhausted and manage to catch a few winks. is an outdoor education tutor and alpine guide. Paula has also travelled extensively, working as an extremely qualified ski patroller. She is a goldmine of information with a clear direct teaching style. I am eternally grateful for her patience with my slow progress in rope skills. She is tiny in frame but strong as an ox. Oh, and did I mention intelligent and very practical?

It involved climbing Mt Cook, (good grief!), cycling from Mt Cook to Picton (wow!) and paddling across the Cook Strait (jeepers!). Extraordinary and so humble – seems to be the way of the peaceful warrior around these parts. No wonder they are great friends with our guides Bill and Paula and all the groovy people at Alpine Guides. Sure is a great team.

After Bill’s hut tour, Paula takes us out to teach us how to walk with crampons and self arrest with the pick of our ice axe. She starts zooming down the slope in a slide with her feet up, then flips over and stops sliding using her ice axe. She explains the technique in detail then tells us “You really need to know this move as it is no good sliding at full speed down this glacier as the things that will finally stop you will be in the form of gaping crevasses.

Paula Roberts, when not guiding,

Right, now you try.” It’s fun whizzing

What an incredible adventure!

downwards. Majestic sentinels of mountain chaperone each side of the ever-moving river of ice below, enticing me to continue my slide earthwards. I defy the slide with this stirling piece of pointy equipment. Now I am in control and it feels good. I love bonding with my ice axe. The window in the weather is closing. By nightfall the second massive storm of the week hits. There is an unreal roar of the wind. Inches from me is the hut wall exterior, where random gusts are reaching up to 150 kilometres an hour. These are angry sheets of weather and are smacking into the side of Kelman Hut as if they have been shot from a mag 58. Barometrical pressure has dropped and the front is hotted up by two warm cyclones from the north banging into it. It’s a rowdy festival of thunder and lightning but I am exhausted and manage to catch a few winks. Morning light strains through the storm. While I snuggle in my sleeping bag, the snow does hiphop to the beat of the wind outside my window. At breakfast, Tony from London states “It’s certainly an exciting place to go to the toilet!” The loo is outside at the prevailing wind-end of the balcony and down the staircase of doom – not for the faint hearted. A new day and there’s no chance of going outside with the storm still in full flight. Known as a ‘Hut Day’, Bill and the giant lads in my group shimmy some tables around and now our little box of dry safe space is another world. It has become an indoor instruction arena. We are given extensive training on two point slings with locked and tracking systems. On this stormy day Bill also keeps an eye on a leaking double-glazed window, which fills with water and uses this as a rainfall measure. Understanding every aspect of weather helps determine how the snow pack will behave when we do venture outside. Our next outdoor exercise is building snow anchors. It is fascinating to discover how strong snow can be. We each build two different styles of anchor and then the afore-mentioned giant blokes test them. This is the funny bit. Five of my hulky crew take an area of rope from the anchor about four metres apart from each other and sprint down the slope with it like a runaway team of oxen. They are pulling with all their might. They are big boys… they want to wreck it. If the anchor works, it jolts the giant men to a screaming halt. They are jostled and rebounded and all fall down. Classic Charlie Chaplin stuff and hilarious for me as photographer. On the serious side, you really can belay your friend with an anchor this strong. Every outing, our guides drum into us how dangerous crampons can be. All day we are coaxed “Wide stance!” “Feet apart.” “You are now a waddling duck with nappies on, this will save your life!” No shortage of humour. On one occasion we

do a glacier traverse down to the Tasman Hut with biting cold wind and it is in these conditions I finally learn the importance of layering. Choice of clothing is right up there in the land of survival. Earth Sea and Sky have kitted me with the latest fabrics which are designed to move moisture from the body. Polyprops are out, polyester is in. This first layer fabric absorbs moisture next to the skin and it then evaporates quickly and effectively. I have three choices, - t-shirt, zip polo, vertical hoodie. Conditions are changeable but generally the Zeal outer shell is the macdaddy of protection… it has double fabric on shoulders, elbows, lower back, a hoodie that fits over my climbing helmet and a whole bunch of thoughtful goodies built in for when the weather really does go bad. For extreme cold my specialised lightweight and compactible Helium II fleece (amazing that something so furry and warm can pack down to such a teeny size), made with Hi Loft material, is unbeatable and rather scrumptious and comfy for hut wear in the evenings. Yes, yes… loving my fluffy Helium II so much, I also use it as a pillow.

“It’s certainly an exciting place to go to the toilet!”

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On the outside of the Zeal shell I wear a mountain harness to carry prusiks, caribiners, a belay guide and slings and of course my Deuter mountain pack. This pack has attachment facilities all over it so that I can carry my ice hammer, crampons, Leki telescopic hiking poles and snow stake. It even has extra loops down the shoulder straps that allow me to attach lens cases so I can photograph with speed to catch moments in difficult conditions. I completely rate the waterproof zipping pouch at the head of the pack. Features such as these make gear changes faster and more efficient. Time is a luxury when mother nature tests us above altitude. Thank goodness for stunning quality. Degree of difficulty increases as our days tick over. I am getting more familiar with the routine and the immense amount of gear needed. We head across the field of icy ravines to a frozen wall which hangs over a meaty looking crevasse. Here we can practice prusiking out of crevasses while pulling our packs up. This is also a www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Our last full day finds us with our biggest challenge ahead. There is an excited buzz at breakfast. We have been building up to this moment. We are to climb Mt Aylmer – 2,699 metres.

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Getting up Mt Aylmer

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Climbin

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rescue exercise as our pack serves as a possible person, needing to be pulled out to safety. I photograph the lads working in pairs. They are keen students, each one wanting to be good at this challenging sport. Then it is my turn. I am lowered off the overhanging ice and dangle above the turquoise chasm. I am in photographerheaven. The tricky bit is to get the shot while hanging on, dangling and spinning slowly in space. Contact. My crampons bite in. crevas

I stabilise and give my trusty old camera the workout of its life. She does well in these freezing temperatures. As do my wee fingers in the awesome gloves Outside Sports provided. Eerie fluorescent blues and greens flash from the deep gash below. Down here I am sheltered from the strong subzero winds…I like it here. Paula’s head has popped over the brink and she yells down to me “You right Mitch?” I give the thumbs up signal and squawk back “Yup…Got it!” then suddenly the land of the giants spring into action. My muscly brutes have all got hold of my rope and posing as large Clydesdale horses, they are pulling me out. Oh, what a fabulous feeling. I zoom up the wall, chinking the points of my crampons in as I rise up the face. Eyeballs level with the top edge for a brief moment I savour the visual of those lads all pulling together as I launch back into their world. I am getting lipstick on my ears from smiling so hard. We rope up and weave back through the glacier field to our sanctuary, salivating at the thought of another gloriously large dinner. The food provided on this adventure is fantastic and better still, the biggest bloke on course (which puts him in the enormous catergory), Mark - the private boys’ school physical education teacher - is a mighty good cook. Three of us have blown cover and confessed this is a lot better than we eat at home! There is another upside to the trip: Justin the friendly Tasmanian cop can’t stop helping with the dishes. It’s legendary! Our last full day finds us with our biggest challenge ahead. There is an excited buzz at breakfast. We have been building up to this moment. We are to climb Mt Aylmer – 2,699 metres. The lads are fizzing with anticipation. Secretly, I am wishing for cocktails in a hammock on a tropical sandy beach. The group prepares and I set off with them over our icy wind drift and leave the nice safe hut for Mt Aylmer. Single file and roped in pairs across the neve. The frozen watery flow of a glacier generally creates crevasses perpendicular to the angle of flow. There are many tricks to avoiding hidden crevasses. As I begin to ascend the gentle base of Aylmer, my leader, Bill signals that I change my position. Not a word spoken but he is the clearest of communicators. I always know exactly what he means. We move as a pair into the www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

John abseils over Bergshrund on Aylmer

Echelon formation as the route demands travel that is parallel to crevasses. A docile set of slopes bring us to the coll with some reminders and prompting from our leaders. “Wide stance”. I am still hoping to be suddenly beamed to my tropical beach. It is bizarre. I am not even caring if there were no sexy bronzed men on my dream beach. They are all cute guys on my course, but after a bundle of non-showered days I know I am no boy-puller and it’s the last thing on my mind. Hmmm… a couple of palm trees, and a lovely sandy lagoon with a daiquiri in hand would be just fine. “Check your screwgate, Mitch.” Ah, back to reality. The first anchors went in to cross a bergshrund, hidden under snow. I crouch behind John and Ben, the two down to earth Australians and watch the safe path emerge. I recall Bill’s words on hut day when we were learning these systems of travel. “Test it… set it up and jump on it,” then I would know for sure that it was strong enough. A glowing blueness all around. Toe points kick into the back of the hard cornice and the pick of my axe dives and holds. More of that and I am across the ridge. A bit of a scramble up some slabs of rock and I clip in with my cowstail. I peer over the rock buttress and take a breath. The ground down there seems an age away. I ask if it’s a 300 metre drop. “No” says Paula, “It’s a fifteen hundred metre drop down into the Whataroa.” A kilometre and a half just down there in a free fall. Hard to fathom. I am on top of a buttress looking straight down to the West Coast. What a feeling. Peaks of the Southern Alps as far as the eye can see. Cloud begins to billow around us. Sefton’s angular point peeps at me. On the West side cloud wafts like candyfloss and folds over the Main Divide. I take a moment and then hook in to abseil down. I am delighted to be here.

Mt Cook from Tasman hut

My guides are both genuinely talented instructors and can immediately spot any one of us on the course making learners’ mistakes which in the field can be potentially life threatening. They are determined and lead us into an alert state of survival mode by the end of the nine days. The first few days of the TMC are an enormous challenge - becoming at one with the huge amount of gear necessary, being faced with the reality of life above 2,000 metres, and building a healthy respect for the environment and those in close quarters around you. This course was not just about mountaineering, but a place where I have learned a lot about myself and others. I was so blessed with the personalities in my group, they were a grand team and a great deal of fun. They soaked up every little detail and still wanted to learn more. I will never forget this incredible quality time and the magic that Alpine Guides has shared with me. What a great adventure.

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Eco-Tourism â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Alive and Thriving in New Zealand by Latesha Randall

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tourists are a new breed. Comfort and fun are no longer the only requirements for a great holiday; people also want to know their travel choices will leave a light footprint on the environment.

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KOKOHUIA

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nd that affects all aspects of holiday planning – from the destination, to modes of transport and activities. A recent Lonely Planet survey showed a substantial increase in awareness and appreciation of eco-tourism amongst global travellers. Around 79 per cent of participants expressed a desire to take part in volunteer work while travelling, and 70 per cent said they had made an effort to travel low-impact in the past. New Zealand, with its abundance of wildlife and uncluttered landscapes, holds a natural attraction for environmentally conscious holidaymakers looking for something more than just shopping, highrises and luxury resorts. Tourism providers nationwide are responding by finding ways to run businesses that showcase New Zealand’s natural beauty without placing stress on its delicate eco-system. It’s a unique challenge, one that forces business owners to think beyond profit to the legacy they’re leaving behind.

providers with, and is proving to be a key factor in decision-making. The good news for today’s green-minded travellers is that there is no shortage of eco-tourism options. From outdoor thrills to sustainably-run accommodation, New Zealand is a country packed with passionate owners and operators who show their respect for the environment in tangible ways. Travellers looking for luxury wrapped up in idyllic, quintessentially Kiwi countryside will be impressed by Matakana’s Waimana Point Lodge, one of only 25 Guest &

New ratings such as the Qualmark Enviro Award are helping set a standard to measure responsible eco-tourism efforts. To receive a coveted Enviro Gold, operators must show high adherence to the five key Enviro hallmarks: Energy Efficiency, Waste Management, Water Conservation, Conservation, and Community. This gives tourists something beyond just ‘clean and green’ talk to assess their tourism

KOKOHUIA

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Hosted accommodation providers to be ranked Enviro Gold. Hosts Geoff and Gloria Collier say they understand the careful balancing act of environment and comfort. “We haven’t always been in tourism. Seven years ago we had a farm – farmers love the land, and understand it’s worth looking after,” says Gloria.

Travellers seeking complete peace and solitude can escape to another ecoparadise in New Zealand’s far North, at Kokohuia Lodge. Built by enthusiastic green-advocates Steve and Suzanne Heim, the two-person retreat is designed to be completely off the grid. “People come here because they know and share our values. We truly believe it’s the little things that add up to make the

difference,” says Steve. Further down the country, tourists can choose from a range of eco-lodgings, such as Te Moata in the Coromandel where they combine organic vegetarian cuisine and yoga retreats with affordable huts set deep in native bush. Or for something a little quirky, perhaps staying in an ‘Earth Dome’ or Tipi at SolScape in Raglan will appeal. Lake Moeraki Lodge

“We knew what we wanted from our lodge – something that fits with the land, a place quiet and secluded where guests could be surrounded by New Zealand’s natural beauty.” And they’re doing their part to contribute to this beauty, with almost 16,000 native trees hand-planted by the Colliers around Waimana so far. Like other accommodation providers striving to be eco-friendly, the Colliers have had to get creative with how they run their lodge. Around 80 per cent of the water heating comes from solar panels, including the 20-metre indoor swimming pool. The building itself has been designed to capture heat and provide excellent natural ventilation – doing away with the need for air conditioning. All the bathroom products are locally produced from enviro-friendly ingredients. Rainwater is captured from the roof, all green waste is put to good use on Gloria’s veggie garden, and breakfast cereals and yoghurt are provided in reusable glass jars.

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in the South Island (also an Enviro Gold holder) gives keen explorers access to wilderness experiences including meeting the penguins, kayaking, and treks across snowy mountain peaks. And when it comes to New Zealand’s bush, beach and wildlife, adventure certainly is plentiful. From Cape Reinga to the Bluff, travellers don’t need to look hard to find great ways to get out and experience firsthand all the natural wonders on offer. Travellers can combine bushwhacking in Auckland’s renowned Waitakere Ranges with walking barefoot on sparkling beaches at the Enviro Gold-ranked Bush & Beach Tours. Their tour guides enjoy sharing inside knowledge on plant-life and New Zealand’s history throughout the journey. The native trees are not only beautiful, but also a significant part of the country’s culture; Maori legends are richly coloured

with stories of the majestic Kauri, Rimu, Pohutukawa, Ko-whai, Totara and Nikau.

million people with a big backyard to play in.

To really appreciate the majestic Kauri, an eco-tour of the Waipoua Forest in Trounson Park is a must. Many operators spend each day escorting groups on foot to see the truly giant ‘Lord of the Forest’, Ta-ne Mahuta – at 51.5 metres high it is the largest living Kauri tree in New Zealand and the oldest known Kauri in the world. The Maori guides from Footprints Waipoua give an additional taste of New Zealand’s heritage by beginning their tours with a ‘karakia’; (a traditional prayer in Maori) to the spirits of the forest.

This means wildlife is given the space it needs to thrive, and highlights for many travellers include getting up close and personal with exotic birds, animals and sea creatures in their natural environment; a completely different experience to behindbars viewing at the city zoo back home. Bird lovers can visit the Miranda Shore Bird Centre in Pokeno (about an hour’s drive from Auckland), the Royal Albatross Centre in Dunedin, and the Whangarei Bird Recovery Centre in the Far North to view New Zealand’s winged inhabitants going about their daily lives.

Visitors to New Zealand are often heard commenting on, ‘How green it is everywhere!’ and they’re right – with over 50 per cent of the country covered in vibrant farmland, 14 national parks (a whopping total of 30,000 square kilometres) and 2,500 native plant species, Aotearoa is known worldwide as a country of only 4.4

And instead of sitting in the jacuzzi at the hotel, how about diving into the crystal clear Pacific Ocean to swim with the dolphins? These friendly performers can often be spotted in action from the shores of local beaches, and eco-operators like Fullers Dolphin Encounters are able to take tourists right out amongst the pod to join in the fun! Or for those more interested in seeing the world’s largest toothed predator, Whale Watch Kaikoura is happy to oblige. The gentle Giant Sperm Whales can spout water up to 15 metres high. Heading down New Zealand, the South Island has its own brigade of ‘Happy Feet’ – both cute Little Blue Penguins and the larger Yellow-eyed Penguin species make their home on the shores of Oamaru and don’t mind being observed by respectful visitors. Some motivated New Zealand tourism providers are taking a step beyond

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providing a fun, eco-friendly experience to directly having a positive impact on the local area they’re operating in. Recently opened Canopy Tours in Rotorua has set an ambitious goal to restore the site for their zip-trek experience, a virgin New Zealand forest, to its original eco-system with the help of a percentage of profits from their operation. Owner James Fitzgerald is passionate about seeing this dream come to fruition. “This isn’t just a fun adrenaline experience, it’s also a journey of the mind,” he says. “We take an advocacy role teaching guests about conservation and our incredible eco-system here in New Zealand.” Zipping through trees isn’t the only adrenaline rush New Zealand has up its sleeve. The dramatic slopes at Mt Ruapehu, Mt Hutt, Cardrona and Treble Cone are a major draw-card for avid snowboarders and skiers during the winter season, and the warmer months tempt adventurers with kite surfing, land yachting, bungy jumping and canyoning. For many travellers, the best part of visiting New Zealand is that they get to apply the local’s famous Kiwi ‘DIY’ attitude to the trip and create their own adventure. Although there are many options for guided tours and eco-friendly holiday packages, with just a good campervan (perhaps an ecooption from Enviro Gold holders KEA Campers or Britz) and a map, active sight-seers can be off hiking the famous Tongariro Crossing, exploring countless nature tracks at local parks, visiting surf beaches and soaking up the warm New

Zealand sun – leaving a barely visible carbon footprint and having a great time doing it. Those looking to give back during their travels (and save on accommodation expenses in the process!) could consider getting their hands dirty and participating in New Zealand’s WWOOF (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) program. As Judy Machin, proud Auckland operator of the Enviro Gold Peace & Plenty Inn says: “The way I see it, what we put into this world, we get back out again.” If tourists continue taking a forwardthinking approach to how they travel, looking out for Enviro ratings and voting for responsible eco-operators with their wallets, then it’s possible New Zealand can continue to remain the safe, green haven it is today. And that way, we all win.

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No description does justice to the powerful presence of nature at Te Moata. Set in 344 hectares of native bush just north of Tairua, this sanctuary hosts a variety of residential retreats, community events and workshops. A network of walking tracks leads to streams, waterfalls, and beautiful stands of native trees including ancient Kauri.

Experience Te Moata for yourself. Enrol in a retreat, book a stay in one of our cottages or remote bush huts, or schedule a casual visit. Enjoy breathtaking views, a walk in the labyrinth and checking out some of our tracks.

Peaceful Eco Friendly Panoramic Coastal Haven

0064 7 8662445 www.kaeppelis.co.nz

For details of upcoming events visit:

www.temoata.org Visitors are welcome by arrangement. Phone Jessie or Dave at 07 868 8798 or email info@temoata.org

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Entree to Winter by Gary Cody

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From the family-friendly and relaxed town of Methven to the hustle and bustle of vibrant Queenstown, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something for everyone when it comes to ski holidays in the South Island of New Zealand.

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nly a three-hour plane trip from Australia, the pristine alpine wilderness of the South Island offers worldclass snow sports for everyone from beginners through to those who’ve skied or snowboarded around the globe.

Mt Hutt and Methven

Just one hour’s drive from Christchurch International airport is Canterbury’s biggest mountain, the spectacular Mt Hutt. The epitome of the traditional Kiwi ski holiday, it’s a snow lover’s paradise attracting skiers of all levels, from those who’ve never felt snow beneath their feet to the experienced who crave challenging steeps, jumps and wide open spaces.

Every ski area needs an après ski town like Methven. Relaxed, unpretentious yet alive with post slope activities for all the family, Methven’s a typical South Island town with a friendly, warm and inviting ambience. Relax after a day on the slopes in a hot tub while enjoying a cold beer or warming red wine and a yarn about the day’s adventures. By log fires in cosy pubs and restaurants treat the family to dinner and catch up on the day’s snow highlights. Everything you could want in a ski trip is here at Mt Hutt, wide open runs, good food and wine, expert tuition and superb facilities for children. For those who love to ski and appreciate all things après ski, Methven’s natural, welcoming and very South Island, leaving you with lasting memories and new-found friends.

Queenstown

Blessed with rugged mountains, sweeping vistas, world-class ski fields and après ski to rival the best in the world, Queenstown’s a snow lover’s paradise that hardly needs an introduction. Queenstown’s one of winter’s best playgrounds, with awardwinning restaurants, chic bars, shops galore, superb cafes and an array of other off-piste activities.

Coronet Peak

Coronet Peak is New Zealand’s original commercial ski field, just 25 minutes from downtown Queenstown with great transport systems meaning easy access to the slopes.

Known for its unassuming and friendly atmosphere, this South Island paradise is also a favourite with families. Methven and Mt Hutt’s amazing kids4free programme, available to everyone who visits the mountain regardless of where they’re from, offers kids 10 years and under free day lift passes every day, and free transport, accommodation, and meals when accompanied by a paying adult.

Coronet Peak

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Coronet Peak is the local’s favourite – hook up with a local on the chairlift to discover the best ‘secret’ spots and powder pockets. Majestically presiding over the valleys below, Coronet Peak’s trails sparkle in the sun by day, while on Friday and Saturday nights twinkling floodlights indicate night skiing’s at the heart of the action. Enjoy entertainment on the deck and a beer or mulled wine with friends before taking advantage of Queenstown’s renowned nightlife.

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The Remarkables

Look across Lake Wakatipu and you can’t help but be mesmerised by the imposing Remarkables mountain range dominating the skyline.

Just for kids

Dedicated school holiday programmes and the daily Kea Club are aimed at five to 15-year-olds and are a great way to improve skills on all three mountains. Trained staff focus on safety, fun and learning for all levels – an excellent way for children to make new friends and have a great day on the hill. Children 10 years and under receive free day lift passes at The Remarkables and Mt Hutt, as do those six and under at Coronet Peak. Skiwiland Early Learning Centres provide safe and funbased learning and childcare for littlies from three months to five years. Parents can relax and enjoy themselves on the slopes safe in the knowledge their little ones are getting all the care and attention they need. Skiing in Methven or Queenstown has long been the destinations of choice for Australians and New Zealanders alike. With increased flights to Queenstown and Christchurch during winter and a flight time from Australia of around three hours, a ski holiday with friends or family is now more achievable than ever before.

This is where you’ll find Queenstown’s second ski field, just 45 minutes from the centre of town and also easily accessed by bus transport from town. The Remarkables is the natural choice for beginners and families with its stunning alpine location, sunny slopes, dedicated learners facilities and children’s activities. The Remarkables’ network of terrain parks and extensive trails makes progression from beginner to intermediate a breeze, and for those craving something a little more technical, there are plenty of advanced trails to explore. Both mountains have snow sports schools with all skiing and snowboarding abilities catered for from beginner to advanced, and lessons available on a group basis, or if one on one instruction is preferred, book a private lesson.

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A glass half full by Anelise Muller

A blend of quirky brew pubs and stand-alone craft breweries from Northland to Invercargill are adding flavour to the New Zealand hospitality industry.

he battle for craft breweries has ever been one of distribution. By the 1970s, the last of New Zealand’s family owned regional breweries had been absorbed by two brewing giants. In the same way that Ford and Holden divided the vehicle market; Lion and DB split the hospitality market. Both aggressive in protection of their patches, their supply agreements actively limited or excluded competitor products – making it hard for new breweries to gain footholds.

Trailblazing

It was 1981 when Terry McCashin unwittingly led the craft revival when the former All Black made the leap from publican to commercial brewer. Adopting the Bavarian Purity Laws, which restrict ingredients to just water, malt, yeast and hops, he made four beers under the Macs banner in Stoke, just out of Nelson. McCashin wasn’t just brewing his own beer, he also had to malt his own grain as the only malt at that time was grown and processed by the big breweries who weren’t interested in sharing. For McCashin himself, the pay-off came in 2000, when Lion Breweries bought the Mac’s brand –moving it to Wellington then going on to use it as the launch-brand for their own range of craft inspired beers. 34

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One of which is Mac’s Hop Rocker which has been acclaimed in both 1001 Beers You Must Taste Before You Die and World’s Best Beers. It’s also one of the easiest to cross off the list – thanks to Lion’s distribution network it’s widely available throughout New Zealand. As for McCashin, after a ten-year-restraint of trade clause expired, the old brewery was fired up to launch a range of four beers under the Stoke label.

The second tier

While McCashin blazed the trail, the road wasn’t an easy one to follow. It was 1989 before the next wave of stayers arrived. Gisborne’s Sunshine Brewery was heralded as the first of the stand-alone breweries – it had no bar, and no onlicense. “Brew a better beer and the world will beat a pathway to your door,” they boldly stated. And 24 years on, it would seem they were right. Brewer Geoff Logan’s Gisborne Gold is still the brewery staple. That same year, Mike Johnson set up White Cliffs Brewing Co at Urenui – famous today for Mike’s Mild Ale. If you’re in Taranaki it’s well worth a visit. The other 1989 starter the Dux De Lux – a brew pub with a vegetarian/sea food menu in the arts precinct became a Christchurch institution. Sadly, the restaurant was a casualty of the 2011 Christchurch

Earthquake – the beer is still being brewed under contract and if you can track down a Nor’Wester that’s another to tick on the 1001 list. In 1990, a Christchurch publican, John Harrington, set up Harrington’s Brewery, with its own pub, three bottlestores, which are still family owned. Its brews are now widely available in the South Island; keep an eye out for Big John Special Reserve for another tick. Two years later, Richard Emerson set up Emerson’s Brewery in Dunedin. Like Sunshine Breweries, his was a stand-alone brewery; its success depended on being able to sell beers into a regimented market – and it was Wellington that first opened the door. When the brewery was bought by Lion in 2012 it was on the proviso that Emerson stay on. Emerson’s Pilsner, London Porter and Old ‘95 are all listed as beers to try in world rankings. In 1994, Chris and Jill Harrison set up Roosters Brew House in Hastings, and in 1995 Keith Galbraith opened the doors to Galbraith’s Ale House in Eden Road, Auckland – both well worthy of a visit. In 1999, Steve Nally set up Invercargill Brewery in a license control stronghold, his Smokin’ Bishop making the 1001 list and B.man counted among World’s Best Beers. At the same time Wanaka Beer Works was set up by Dave Gillies. Its Brewski is another on the World’s Best

Steve Nally

Beers list. Third generation brewer John Duncan set up Founders Brewery in Nelson, bought by Independent Liquor in 2012.

styles, others because they’re breaking ground in distinctly New Zealand flavours, like Strong New Pilsner which was first recognised as a beer style in 2006.

Survivors

Excellent free-houses (bars with no brewery affiliation who stock beers just because they’re good) are beginning to crop up around the country.

They represent survivors of a tough industry. Microbreweries of New Zealand published in 1995, detailed 35 craft breweries – just seven survive to present day, however any casualties have been more than replaced – the New Zealand Brewers Guild currently lists 47 members – while Beer and Brewer counts 57 New Zealand Breweries (including the big ones). And it’s easy to see why. Spurred on by the urban legends of Terry McCashin and now Richard Emerson, with buoyant growth in key breweries the craft future looks bright. There are even virtual breweries, contracting manufacture out to other craft brewers and others who share brew premises. According to the Department of Statistics, in the five years to 2006 the draught beer market shrunk from 69 per cent to 57 per cent, while European lager, craft and imported beers rose from 30 per cent to 41 per cent of the beer market. New Zealand craft beer is still just a tiny portion of the sales but it’s worth seeking out – it’s well represented it onto world best lists. Some are there because they’re faithful interpretations of old world brew

Wellington is often described as the Craft Beer Capital of New Zealand – not because it’s got a lot of breweries – in fact until 2011 it had only one, but because it’s loaded with free-houses which support craft breweries from throughout the country. It’s also home to Beervana – a celebration of New Zealand brewing held in August each year in conjunction with the BREWNZ Awards. If you’re looking for takeaway beers in New Zealand, check out the liquor stores but also try New World Supermarkets. Many now carry a consistently good range of craft beers, they’re easy to find and many beers are available in single bottle serves. Although alcohol prohibition disappeared in New Zealand in the mid-50s, archaic licensing laws still prevail in some pockets, particularly in the lower South Island, where many supermarkets and shops are prohibited from selling beer and wine – so if you’re heading to remote areas check the status and if need be, stock up before you travel. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

1001 Beers You Must Taste Before You Die (2010) – edited by Adrian Tierney-Jones Beer

12 Gauge Big John Special Reserve Emersons Old 95 Emerson’s Pilsner Enigma Mayhem Fair Maiden Ale Green Man Stout Hop Rocker Mammoth Mata Artesian Moa Original Nor’wester Smokin’ Bishop Stonecutter Ale Three Boys Wheat Tuatara Indian Pale Ale

Brewery Location Est Sawmill Brewery Harringtons Emersons Emersons Twisted Hop Epic Founders Greenman Macs/ LION Pink Elephant Aotearoa Brewery Moa Brewing Dux De Lux Invercargill Brewery Renaissance Brewery Three Boys Brewery Tuatara Brewery

Leigh, Northland 2004 Christchurch 1990 Dunedin 1992 Dunedin 1992 Christchurch 2003 Auckland 2006 Nelson 1999 Dunedin 2007 NZ Contract 1990 Kawerau 2003 Blenheim 2003 Christchurch 1989 Invercargill 1999 Blenheim 2005 Christchurch 2005 Waikanae 2000

World’s Best Beers (2010) by Ben McFarland Beer Emersons Pilsner London Porter Epic Pale Ale B.man Hop Rocker Black Lager Stonecutter Ale Three Boys Wheat Tuatara Ardennes Twisted Ankle Brewski

Brewery Location Est Emersons Emersons Epic Invercargill Brewery Mac’s Monteiths/DB Renaissance Three Boys Brewery Tuatara Brewery The Twisted Hop Wanaka Beers Works

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Dunedin Dunedin Auckland Invercargill NZ Greymouth/NZ Blenheim Christchurch Waikanae Christchurch Wanaka

1992 2006 1999 1981 2005 2005 2000 2003 1999

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KIWI GOLF

IN THE FAST LANE I arrived in Auckland for a Kiwi golfing getaway and a chance to experience some of the charms of New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest city. I checked into my hotel in downtown Auckland and headed for Formosa Country Club.

8th Formosa

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Formosa is a stunning resort golfing complex approximately 30 minutes’ drive from the city centre. Formosa includes an 18hole golf course, driving range, gymnasium, restaurant, corporate function facilities and luxury on-course villa accommodation.

he resort itself is set in beach lands atop cliff side terrain scattered with palm trees and the panoramic views of Waiheke Island and The Hauraki Gulf are simply breathtaking. I was pleasantly greeted by the staff and decided to warm up on their world class practice facility to iron out my swing prior to tackling the 6,600 metre Championship Sir Bob Charles designed course modelled on Augusta National. The course has been host to many major tournaments over the years including several New Zealand Opens. I teed off and I immediately recognised the need to allow for the wind in my shot selection as my approach to the first green came up short. The open Formosa layout can be deceptive and hitting shots at the correct trajectory to complement the breeze is essential to good scoring. The front nine was a pleasant challenging experience, however nothing could prepare me for the cliff top stretch of holes starting at the par three 11th a mid-length hole that required me to punch a long iron into the breeze to find the green. The very next hole was definitely my favourite; a long par five dogleg right with a waste bunker that runs all the way down the left hand side of the fairway. I made sure that I didn’t try to cut the dogleg too fine and played safe down the left side to make my par.

i g n a r i t i 12th T

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The par three fifteenth is a stunning short hole that also has a great ocean backdrop; a well calculated club selection is also required here to avoid the impending. After bogies at the next two holes I concluded my round with some redemption, holing a tricky 25 footer for birdie on the last green. As difficult as the course may seem due to the challenge of wind, sand and water, the quick sloping greens are certainly deceptive and a subtle challenge to leave yourself an uphill putt. After a very tough day playing an inspiring layout, I took the opportunity to have a delightful meal in the clubhouse and lookout over the course, recounting my round again in my head as golfers all seem to do. Formosa was a great start to my Auckland swing! The next day I travelled 15 minutes north of Auckland over the harbour bridge for breakfast in the coastal suburb of Campbells Bay. Then I was off to play Pupuke, a wonderful parkland course set amongst undulating costal bushland in the Centennial Parklands. Founded in 1914, the course is nearly 100 years’ strong and from the moment I arrived at the club its hospitality was overwhelming. I was paired with a really fun group of members that told me all about the history of the club and also assisted me in using my driver sparingly during the round. Pupuke is not a long course by any stretch of the imagination, although the real challenge is its undulations; any inaccurate drive can roll into thick bushland. I strongly recommend this course as a ‘must play’ if you are visiting Auckland and the views of the Hauraki Gulf.

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With the afternoon in front of me I went down back through Auckland to the Waitakere Ranges, 20 minutes to the south west of the city, to play on a course designed by one of my favourite golf course architects, Dr. Alistair McKenzie. Yes! Titirangi is the only course in New Zealand to be designed by the good doctor, who also designed Royal Melbourne, Cypress Point and, of course, Augusta National. In keeping with the environment, a McKenzie design trait, the par 70 championship course is gently undulating, set amongst natural bushland and is tough but fair, rewarding good shot-making but also punishing wayward approaches; with deep bunkering and strategically positioned trees. My favourite hole is the par three 11th hole, which requires a carefully played tee shot over a valley to a green that slopes from front to back guarded by bunkers. Any Dr. Alistair McKenzie course will satisfy me to play anywhere in the world but Titirangi was a real treat! After experiencing some of Aucklandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

much-proclaimed nightlife at Viaduct Harbour, I was a little dusty the next morning so I decided to take a cart around Gulf Harbour course. North of Auckland, Gulf Harbour is an undulating course with a moderately interesting front nine holes. However, when I reached the back nine I knew was at another fantastic Auckland region Kiwi golf course with some of the most spectacular views, complemented by challenging, magnificently-designed holes. The back nine makes its way down to the beach and it is here where the coastal stretch of holes begins. I really enjoyed the par four 12th hole, which is a classic short par four that I drove near the green and pitched and putted for birdie. The final four holes really do make a great culmination to your round. It all starts at the downhill par three 15th which has the Pacific Ocean as a backdrop. I did not find the long par four 16th hole easy at all though, although I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think I would be the only golfer that has double bogeyed this hole. I did redeem myself on the last two holes with a birdie and par finish. The 18th hole is a downhill par four with a

16th Formosa

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unique double fairway shared with the first hole and has views of town from the tee. The views from the course at Gulf Harbour were certainly spectacular and the back nine has one of the best finishing stretches to a course I have ever played. My final round in Auckland was back at Pukekohe, a quaint parkland course I played at a year ago and really enjoyed, so I thought I would head back to see if I could better my efforts of last year. The course really gives you a feel of the land of the long white cloud as it is set amongst rolling farmland with a variety of established trees and ponds setting the challenge for golfers like myself who may be a bit ambitious. I really enjoyed the par three fourth hole over a pond to a small green; accuracy is placed at a premium here. The unique finish of two par five holes back to back is an interesting way to end your round at Pukekohe, the 18th hole is a gem with Karaka Road guarding the right hand side of the green; having played the course before though I managed to keep my second shot well to the left hand side. The

hospitality that I experienced at ‘Puke’ last year was just as warm as I ventured into the clubhouse for a beer and a laugh with the members.

GULF HARBOUR

COUNTRY CLUB World class golf - and more

I left Auckland airport on my Jetstar flight bound for Melbourne, Australia with thoughts of how much fun I had in Auckland with not too much time spent driving and how each course was so scenic in its own unique way. I can’t wait to get back to in a few months to play some of the courses I had heard about from the locals but had not had a chance to play! Steve Khatib is an internationally respected authority on all matters of golf technique and training, owing to his affiliations through many years spent with the world’s leading golf minds in the USA. His achievements include accreditation as a PGA AAA Specialist Coach and a Master Golf Club Fitter. He is one of a select group of international instructors to hold a Masters Degree in Golf Stroke Engineering and was awarded the PGA Teacher of the Year.

Welcome to

Gulf Harbour Country Club Open 7 days a week for you to play golf. World-class golf course and club facilities, Gulf Harbour Country Club has been de-scribed as “possibly the best golf course in Auckland”. Located 40 minutes north of Auckland city and well worth the visit. If you are looking for a casual golf game or Membership, a special location for your wedding reception, perhaps a unique experience for your Corporate golf day, business conference or meeting ...

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Southland

SAVOURING SOUTHLAND by Gary Cody

Southland

Bluff Oyster Festival

Growing up beside the sea in The Deep South was a treat. The ocean furnished us with many delicacies that, as usual, were never appreciated until they were not available.

he salty seaside town of Bluff is home to a fleet of oyster boats and the main gateway to Stewart Island – New Zealand’s third largest island. It is the oldest European settled town in New Zealand and offers fascinating maritime history. Southland is our most southern region sparsely populated and famed for native bird sanctuaries and an untouched natural environment. With great food, friendly locals and plenty of space it’s a great place to get back to nature. Southland is the home of the World’s Fastest Indian, the Bluff Oyster and Mayor Tim Shadbolt – all icons of the South and New Zealand. One of these special treats is the Bluff Oyster. Being offered oysters in many parts of the

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world is one thing but knowing they will not even come near the unique flavour of “The Bluffie” at times appears arrogant. Many regions in New Zealand seem to think they have replicated this explosive flavour, however most are not even in the same street. The oyster season runs from a time in March decided on by Fisheries authorities until the quota of around 15 million oysters are dredged. During this time The Bluff Oyster Festival is held in the port town and is well worth a visit if you want to really sample the ocean dredged shellfish and be entertained by the locals. While the oysters are the central focus of the annual festival, other local specialties are also on offer including sought-after Muttonbirds, crayfish, wild foods and a

variety of fresh seafood abundant in the region. Festival entertainment is also oyster-related with everything from ‘piping in the oyster’ at the start of festivities, to oyster opening and eating competitions and oyster sack creativity awards. Live music adds to the atmosphere and friendly Bluff locals make this winter festival one of the country’s most popular food and wine events. Bluff oysters are said to be the most flavoursome in the world because they are slowly grown in the cold, clean waters of Foveaux Strait until they are large, plump and juicy. The official oyster-harvesting

season runs from March until June or July – depending on when the yearly quota is reached. There were always plenty of sheep around when I was a youngster, so many in fact, that in those days it was around 20 sheep to every living soul in New Zealand. One guy who has really taken advantage of their numbers is CEO of Blue River, Keith Neylon. Growing up in a rural town, Keith really had a great understanding of the wooly ones. It is not their wool that Keith is interested in these days however, it is their milk. Blue River is totally integrated, where they farm the sheep, milk the sheep, transport the milk and process it into cheese, ice cream and milk powder. A visit to the Invercargill factory and tasting room and shop must be completed to enjoy the flavours and unique tastes of the

wonderful cheeses and ice cream. One of my favourites was the Curio Bay Pecorino. It has a natural rind and has a very distinctive flavor. This cheese I imagine to be versatile and used in many ways. Tasting food and wine is a very personal matter and at Blue River the analysis is left up to the visitor. Tastings where the company forces the flavour and the product on one as they see it make for an uncomfortable experience. You will not have this happen at Blue River. I was asked for my opinion rather than being told what I was experiencing. Within walking distance of the CBD, Blue River should be on all foodies’ schedules. It was then on to The Seriously Good Chocolate Company and the word seriously did mean something. Located right in the CBD this café/factory is a chocolate lovers

paradise. Even if chocolate is not your thing the café has freshly made fare from around the Southland region. Jane Stanton, the owner, began with family recipes perfected by her grandfather, once Mayor of Hokitika, an historic township and weather-beaten port on the South Island’s dramatic West Coast. He had a chocolate business there. And there would be little forgiveness for a poor flavour in those wild days on “The Coast”. Over time with the maturing of The Seriously Good Chocolate Company has developed into making unique and iconic chocolates such as the wine infused varieties with unforgettable flavours. The factory can be seen from the café and the variety of chocolate available is stunning. My favourite is the cranberry and pinot noir. The flavours and mixes this establishment produces are mind-

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Award winning NZ Sheep milk products

0064 03 2115150

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Mrs Clark’s - Riverton

boggling. Whether you have a sweet tooth or not, this attraction has to be on your to-do list. After a 40-minute drive I arrived in Gore, a rural servicing town, to visit The Hokonui Moonshine Museum. While moonshining was equally popular and diligently pursued from Bluff to the far North it’s Southland and particularly the Hokonui district that has become so famous and a unique part of New Zealand’s folklore. Over the years changes in government law helped sustain this cottage industry. The Distillation Prohibition Act of 1865 ensured spirit craftsmen were going to be kept busy while in 1905 the whole Southland Invercargill area went ‘dry’. Hokonui was at the centre of this ‘dry’ area and the law gave an enormous boost to demand, so much that local production had to be supplemented by imports from Otago. The Museum has an informative interactive journey as a highlight along with amazing memorabilia from the moonshining period. A taste of the real spirit at the end of the experience put a nice cap on a wonderful experience.

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Monday to Friday 9am - 5pm Weekends 10am - 5pm (Closed Christmas Day & Good Friday)

108 Gala St, Invercargill, New Zealand Phone +64 3 219 9069 Fax +64 3 218 3872 Email office@southlandmuseum.co.nz

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apple pie I sampled was a little tart for my taste but the squashed chocolate cake was perfect. Interesting wine list and well priced wines by the glass and bottle. You won’t be disappointed. A company that is making a huge impact on the export and local consumption of wholesome food from the region is Back Country Cuisine and its sister company The Outdoor Gourmet Company. This is a very unique experience for me. The food is freeze-dried which assists in retaining the goodness and flavour. Meals in long lasting packs that are ideal for outdoor trampers, climbers, mountain bikers and others who are looking for wholesome meals but want limited weight. Aboard a yacht or any other reason you want fresh tasting food that is lightweight and long lasting. Magical product to say the least. The menu is vast and interesting, from wild mushrooms and lamb risotto to venison and rice noodle stir-fry. The Outdoor Gourmet company has teamed up with top Australian chefs and have created an amazing selection of convenient and

The next evening it was dinner at Louies, an iconic establishment in Invercargill. Proprietor Mana Davis has had a successful hospitality career both in Queenstown and Invercargill. Situated in the CBD area this restaurant oozes a welcoming ambience. Two open fires with a rustic charm and a well stocked wine list and cocktails only leaves for one other ingredient to make for an enjoyable evening. The food…. I had a chicken breast, served on wilted spinach and mash, drizzled with a wine jus. The flavours were superb. I couldn’t have wished for better. Desserts were all tempting; the crab

Whalers display

Louies Cafe and Tapas Bar - Invercargill

lightweight gourmet meals. Check their product out - it’s a winner!! The next night I spent in my hometown of Riverton. Recommendations and accolades were all I had heard about Mrs Clarks, an award-winning café (the country’s best café in the 2012-13 New Zealand Best Café Awards). It is in the main street of the seaside town at the mouth of the Aparima River (Aparima being the native and original name of the town). I remember the old building well. It was a bakery when I was a lad in short pants and had lots of goodies that Mother often afforded us on a lucky day. It’s still full of goodies!!! Good people, good food and amazing ambience. Simple, rustic but suits the location and

town perfectly. On meeting the owners Cazna Gilder and her husband Pat I knew things would be terrific. I wasn’t wrong. Caz an outgoing and proud mine host looks after the front end of the business while Pat her husband is in the engine room pumping out superb breakfast and lunches. This team is unique, superb and very proud. And so they should be. A breakfast is a breakfast however my fare was just epic. I think what really made my meal was the local sausage that Pat uses along with bright-yoked, organic, free-range eggs. I knew I was in a special place. I’m a fussy coffee drinker and the coffee was as good as any world-class café in Melbourne could produce. It may be the beans, it may be the espresso machine

however, with Caz’s touch, it is divine. Riverton is well worth a visit, the highlight being Te Hikio Museum and there will be more about this seaside gem in future issues. Watch this space. Go Southland!!!

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April 25-May 12

www.southlandnz.com Jeremy Pierce, Hokonui Moonshine Museum

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Fiordland

THE WONDER OF WATER

by Ashley McKay

Fiordland

I am an avid reader of travel articles, and glean much inspiration from others’ experiences of far flung places. One thing has always puzzled me, though – and that’s the weather.

any travel writers’ experiences take place under azure skies, the hazy days of summer with cocktail in one hand, sun parasol in the other. The sun is always shining and the weather always balmy: not too hot, not too cold, just perfect to showcase the very best of the activities on offer. Let’s be honest though – aren’t they being just a tad dishonest? New Zealand is the best place on Earth to live and visit. No argument. After roaming the world looking for paradise, I have found it in Fiordland, and have wholeheartedly embraced its many contrasting moods. You see, Fiordland is a rainforest and one thing about rainforests is that it tends to rain. Not that we’re talking daily drenching by any means – far from it. We have gone weeks here without rain, and the temperature can soar to around 30°C in summer. On occasion, however, the heavens open and the umbrellas go up. And a good thing too, for it’s only when it rains that Fiordland comes alive. Water is Fiordland’s lifeblood: Rivers run like a myriad of veins and arteries to and from

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the lakes, and are themselves fed by melting snow, ice and wild waterfalls which appear in their thousands when it starts to rain. Fiordland’s mountains and valleys were shaped by water - from the relentless power of glacial sculpting to the gentle force of a river’s meander pattern. Many of the activities available in Fiordland also owe their existence to the wonder of water. This region is world famous for its fishing (fly-fishing in particular), and many a happy angler has come and gone having bagged ‘The One’ in a quiet stream away from the hurly burly of the daily grind. You can purchase rod and reel in Fiordland Frontier Supplies (Te Anau) or, if a guided trip and a bit of insider knowledge is what you’re after, call on the services of Mark Wallace and his company Fish Jet which offers totally unique fishing from a jet boat drifting along the mighty Waiau River. Combining two classic Kiwi experiences; jet boating and fishing, Fish Jet delivers an extraordinary adventure, perfect for families, curious first-time and experienced fishers alike. The significance of water to both Milford and Doubtful Sounds needs no explanation and visitors to these two iconic attractions take to boats, both big and small, in their

multitudes to enjoy their scenic splendour. For photographers, the atmospheric moodiness of Mitre Peak swathed in mist is far more redolent of Fiordland’s true character, than the flat, bland shots against a blue and cloudless sky. If striding across the hills rather than messing about in boats is your thing, then Fiordland too is your playground. Numerous short walks and multi-day hiking trails, including three of the New Zealand Great Walks (the Milford, Routeburn and Kepler Tracks), have earned Fiordland the reputation of one of the world’s finest walking destinations. Initially, walking in the rain could seem like an alarming, if not downright bonkers, proposition but it is only when your focus is narrowed to the feet underneath you and the flora surrounding you that you realise the sheer variety of plant life in this part of the world. Fiordland is a treasure chest of rare and endemic plants – including several species of snow grass, herbs, tree daisies, speargrass and buttercups not found anywhere else in the world. In addition, around 10% of Fiordland’s 3,000 insect species are endemic to the region while the world’s only surviving population of Takahe live in Fiordland’s Murchison

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mountains. This very special, flightless bird was thought to be extinct until its rediscovery in 1948. With the wild population now carefully protected, you can have the rare privilege of getting up close and personal with a Takahe in the Te Anau Wildlife Park along with other species such as Keas, Kaka, bellbirds and Tuis. Once you’ve tasted the rain and splashed in puddles, then head to one of Fiordland’s townships to dry off and experience true Southern hospitality. Te Anau, located on the shores of New Zealand’s second largest lake, is the gateway to Fiordland and provides a perfect base to explore the area. The town still exudes plenty of pioneer spirit among the wide boulevards lined with busy shops, restaurants, cafes and a large range of accommodation options. Take a stroll down Te Anau’s High Street and browse in the shops, or pop into Vibrance Beauty Spa for a relaxing massage, facial – or blow dry! Head to the Sandfly Café – a locals’ favourite - for a fabulous hot chocolate and a spot of people-watching or, for a delicious lunch or dinner, stroll down to the Redcliff Café and sample some of Fiordland’s finest cuisine, washed down with a glass (or three) of locally produced wine. Criss-crossed by rivers, and flanked by sea, Fiordland is justly famous for its fresh fish and seafood. Blue cod, crayfish (lobster) and paua, as well as trout and salmon

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are just some of the region’s fare well worth trying, while Fiordland venison and Southland lamb and beef are celebrated throughout New Zealand for flavour and quality. For the fully authentic experience, head to the Fiordland Lobster Company in Te Anau and purchase a crayfish (limited door sales) then stroll down to the lakeshore, make yourself comfortable and tuck in. Just 20 minutes drive from Te Anau is Lake Manapouri, arguably the most picturesque lake in the world. Nestled on its shores is the charming township of Manapouri, New Zealand’s westernmost settlement, with nothing but National Park extending for 1.2 million hectares to the north, south and west. Make a beeline for the very friendly Manapouri pub that boasts fantastic views over the lake: nowhere else on New Zealand’s mainland can you sup an ale in a classic rural hotel and be so, well… ‘westerly’ about it! For a completely rain-free Fiordland experience, pop into Te Anau’s Fiordland Cinema – the only cinema in the world which screens Ata Whenua - Shadowland. This short film brings you the Fiordland World Heritage Status Wilderness you would otherwise never see. Mysterious, evocative, exhilarating and utterly spectacular, filmed across extremes of season, climate and terrain the movie is definitely a Must Do for the Fiordland region. Relax with a glass of wine or beer in front of the fire at the cinema’s bar, or take the glass with you and savour the delights of a Central Otago

wine while you enjoy Fiordland on film, or any of the feature movies also screened. Lying between latitudes 44° and 46°, Fiordland sits squarely in the ‘Roaring Forties’. You may well need a raincoat when here, but the splendour of watching a Fiordland river in flood, or the Southern seas break across the wild south coast is well worth it. Indeed, Fiordland’s mountains and rugged wilderness are what draw people to this magical region. Mountains are the nurseries of clouds: without clouds there would be no rain, and without rain there would be no Fiordland. So let’s hear it for clouds and rain – it’s what makes this part of the world absolutely unique and will guarantee that you savour and celebrate the sunshine when it does come.

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Dunedin

DUNEDIN DIALOGUE By Amanda Taylor and John Ashworth

Amanda Taylor and John Ashworth write what could well be typical conversations following a Dunedin visit.

Dunedin

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“Yes, you know, that cool city in the lower South Island of New Zealand.” www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

he says

I can’t help but admire Sarah’s outfit as she walked into the café. It is edgy and fun, beautiful and unique. “Wow – where did you get that incredible dress?” I ask as Sarah approaches our table. “It’s gorgeous.” Sarah, fresh from her holiday, does a theatrical twirl and takes her seat. “Dunedin.” “Dunedin?” I ask, barely disguising the surprise in my voice. “Yes, you know, that cool city in the lower South Island of New Zealand,” she replied, smiling at my reaction. I blush. “Oh, I know where Dunedin is, I just never thought of it as being home to cuttingedge fashion,” I say. “Well, Dunedin is fashion,” Sarah says. “It’s where some the country’s nationally and internationally acclaimed labels and designers, such as Nom*D, Mild Red, Charmaine Reveley, Company of Strangers, and Tamsin Cooper are based. It’s kind of like New Zealand’s underground fashion capital; Dunedin’s iD Fashion Week in March is a fabulous week of fashion and style that the whole city celebrates. There are amazing catwalk shows at the gorgeous railway station, and others that feature runway collections by high profile international and Kiwi designers alongside a new generation of top design talent from around the world. We have to go!” Our coffees arrive as Sarah continues. “It’s not only that the city boasts many recycled boutique stores. It’s like Dunedin’s found the best of everything – new, second-hand, retro and vintage and then put it within easy walking distance of each other.”

As if to hit the point home, she rummages for something in her handbag. Her bag’s gorgeous. “I’m guessing you got that in Dunedin,” I say, taking the bait. “Oh yes, and it’s Dunedin made.” “Dunedin has plenty of designer workshops and boutiques, jewellers, fashion houses, and heaps of quirky places where you can buy antiques, furniture, china and bookshops. And when you think you’ve seen them all, there’s another one around the corner.” I’m intrigued, and slightly jealous. “What else did you do while you were in Dunedin?” I ask sipping my coffee. Sarah smiles and nods toward my cup. “Well, that coffee you are drinking, totally Dunedin.” “Dunedin?” “The city roasts many fine coffees that are then savored around New Zealand. When you have national and boutique coffee brands being made in the city, it makes sense it has a premier café culture.” I move to the edge of my seat. Coffee and shopping – is there more to Dunedin I don’t know about? Sarah sighs. “Well, let’s just say I wish I took a bigger suitcase and Greg booked a longer stay.” “Greg went shopping with you?” “Not likely,” she laughs. “He hit the outdoors with his mates – mountain biking, climbing, surfing, golf and kayaking etc. With the guys away doing their thing, me and the girls indulged in fine fashion and fine times. We work hard – we deserve an indulgence now and then.” I’d obviously underestimated Dunedin as a getaway destination – and Sarah hadn’t stopped educating me. “We spent the next day exploring the Otago Peninsula. I don’t really know how to describe how beautiful it is, but I do have photos. She dives back into her new bag and hands me her smartphone. I scroll through photos of gorgeous sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs, and views that were simply to die for.

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“There’s a castle!” I say with what must have sounded like a small squeal. Sarah laughed. “That’s Larnach Castle – the only castle in New Zealand. It’s on the peninsula and has the most amazing views across the Otago Harbour and Dunedin. “And it’s just so historic and romantic – just like the scene it is set in.” “How do you mean – what’s as romantic as a castle?” I ask. “Well, the peninsula wildlife is pretty special too,” she says. “We took one of the award-winning tours and saw sea lions, seals, albatross, dolphins and penguins.” It sounds wonderful, I say – sincerely – as I hand back her phone. As she reaches out, a photo of Sarah with butterflies on her arm catches my attention. “Now that was amazing. There’s a tropical forest at the Otago Museum, filled with hundreds of butterflies, geckos, and even turtles. If you are lucky, some of the butterflies land on you.” She reaches back into her bag and swaps the phone for a box of chocolates. “For you, from Dunedin.” “You know it’s my number one favourite food, and you’re telling me it’s made in Dunedin?” “Even better, you can do chocolate tours. And it gets better – you can also have a food tour of your own and treat yourself to many of the city’s finest eateries. Just delicious.” That’s it. The promise of shopping, rare and beautiful wildlife, chocolate, butterflies, fine food, cafés and beaches get me reaching for my phone. “What are you doing?” Sarah asks. “I’m calling Andrew, then I’m off to buy a bigger suitcase. We are going to Dunedin.” Look out, fabulous city, here I come.

e says

I’m sure staining the deck was the last thing Greg wanted to do on his first weekend home from holiday – but when your mates work for beer, you’re willing to make the sacrifice.

“Well, that’s true, but that’s the beauty of Dunedin,” he says without skipping a beat. “It’s got stuff for the lads and the ladies. Sarah met up with some girlfriends and they hit the shops. You should have seen how full her suitcase was when we left.”

And man, did he make a sacrifice: the beer he poured was sensational.

Hang on, did Greg say he’d been surfing?

“Greg, this beer’s beautiful. I’ll stain your deck next weekend if this is what you’ve got in your fridge.”

“What’s the surf like in Dunedin – I didn’t know you’d hopped back on a board,” I say.

Greg coughs on his beer and laughs.

“It’d been a while, but me and a couple of the guys took lessons so we could make the most of it. Seriously, it was pumping. We were just minutes from the central city and just metres from the cafes we hit for dinner.

“Mate, it should be beautiful – I went a long way to get it. It’s from Dunedin. I left a box of chocolates at the airport just so I could get it into my luggage.” Now, I know he isn’t serious – Sarah would never have let him on the plane without their chocolates – but his ear-to-ear smile says there’s a story here. “So, Dunedin, it’s all beer and chocolates, eh,” I say, taking another drink. “Isn’t it a city full of students and old buildings?” And with that, Greg takes his chance to rub-in how much fun he had on the mates’ trip that I’d missed out on. “Nah, look, it’s a bit of that and a lot about adventure. I mean, we managed to squeeze in a couple of excellent brewery tours and tastings, but we had to do it after earning it. “We were fishing, golfing, kayaking, mountain biking – mate, I spent a morning belting down a hill on a bike, looking at all this amazing coastal scenery and ended the day surfing on a gold sand beach, it was awesome,” Greg says. Greg probably doesn’t expect me to start laughing, but I can’t help myself. “No offence but I can’t really see Sarah – super-urbane Sarah – flying downhill or catching a wave with you and the lads,” I say.

“Speaking of food, the Otago Farmers Market really hits the spot. “It’s right next to an old Victorian railway station, and it’s a great place to get local meat and seafood, boutique cheeses – which the girls loved – pies, which a fella like you will love, Manuka-smoked eggs, fresh fruit and – no lies – beer ice-cream.” “Beer ice cream! What did it taste like?” “Awesome. As good as the bacon butties. And pretty close to the cheese rolls we got at a cafe.” Finally, something I knew about. “Ah, yes, Dunedin’s famous cheese rolls – they’re just about as famous as Baldwin Street, that Dunedin street that’s considered the steepest residential street in the world. “But you probably already knew that, Greg - by the sound of things, you probably ran up it after a few cheese rolls.” Greg takes the joke and fires straight back. “Nah, we walked. I was a bit tired from the golf – and, truth be told, from visiting just a few of the many museums and galleries we had time to see.” Finally, Greg takes a breath and takes a double-gulp of his near-finished beer. “Sounds like you’re the city’s new ambassador,” I say, gesturing for a topup. “For sure. That place is incredible. I’m definitely going back. I’ll have to if you want some more Dunedin beer for painting my fence.” “Ah, your fence,” I laugh. “You’ll have to book me well in advance. I’m off to Dunedin for a holiday – and a freshly brewed refill.”

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Arrowtown

AUTUMN’S CROWN OF FIRE AND GOLD

by Gary Cody

Overwhelming beauty greets autumn visitors to historic Arrowtown. Without a doubt the colours of this quiet Central Otago vale in autumn are among the most breathtaking in the world. The variety of trees, climate and schist-rich soils cultivate an annual extravaganza of colour that Mother Nature has good reason to be proud of at this special time of year.

he Arrowtown Autumn Festival draws crowds of photographers, artists and naturelovers from around the world every year in celebration of the vivid colour on the canvas of the Arrowtown basin. The beautiful, picturesque town is adorned with gold and red and firey hues and the festival captures the love the locals share for their own little part of paradise. Specialist retail stores abound, one of these being the Jade and Opal Factory in the heart of the Main Street. Twenty-five years carving Jade sourced both locally and from the finest Jade mines in the world including Siberia, Australia, Mexico and British Columbia, validates the Jade and Opal Factory’s authenticity. The locally trained carvers answer a calling. They are led to the stone, drawn to the stone, listening to the soul of the stone, discovering the shape it holds within. Here purchasers can discuss their piece with the carver or request a specific piece they want carved.

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Jade and Opal Factory carvers are more than just invested in their craft. They are involved in every aspect from discovering and extracting the Jade to the finishing of the beautiful, unique pieces they create. Coaxing shape from this incredible and precious stone requires exceptional skill and attention to detail. It also requires patience and a peaceful presence of mind. Formed by extreme pressure and volcanic movement deep within the mighty Southern Alps of New Zealand’s stunning South Island the nature of Jade is further shaped and moulded by glaciation, thawing and heavy rainfall. Exposed by the weather and volcanic mutterings boulders of Jade make their way into the hands of the carvers by way of

Arrowto wn

river, stream and rockfall. Hard to believe that such violent beginnings create such a romantic and spiritual stone and yet the beauty and strength of Jade is worldrenowned and highly sought.

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Celebration of Gold in Arrowtown and the town is still alive with community spirit. Born of gold in 1862 Arrowtown’s initital settlers planted a plethora of desiduous trees. Did the colours and scent of these changable trees offer isolated pioneers a taste of home? Or was the desperation for cover from the wild winter weather necessitate the mass planting in abundance of oaks, sycamores, ash and cork elms? Whatever the reason the plantings have provided Arrowtown with an umbrella to rival Joseph’s Technicolour Dreamcoat. Celebrating autumn in Arrowtown is a thrill for the senses. At the Arrowtown Autumn Festival in particular every sight, sound and scent is intense and engaging. Locally grown, foraged and hunted food melts in the mouth, the variety of superlative flavours including crab apple, gooseberry, rosehip, wild thyme, rabbit, duck and goat.

The soul of the business is mastercraftsman and owner Leroy Mullings, a man whose talent has won the hearts of untold satisfied Jade converts. Though Leroy’s greatest passion is in the emotionwrought sculpting of unique Jade pieces for his clients and customers, the Jade and Opal Factory also fashions stunning jewellery and personal statement pieces from Australian Opal, South East Asian pearls, bone and native New Zealand Paua and shell. One year on from the historic 150 Year

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The festival always puts on an outstanding show for people of all ages and the weeklong event has been priding itself on a refreshing and innovative programme for 28 years. Of course there are always the old favourites! Arrowtown’s own answer to the Moulin Rouge, the Buckingham Belles can-can girls dance and flourish their way

down the main street as the Arrow Miner’s Band plays on from the back of the iconic Old Red Truck. Following the historic theme the vintage car display is ever a popular draw card for enthusiasts and collectors, as well as any boy under the age of 90! For the girls, the Wearable Art Fashion Show wows and delights festival-goers of all ages. The Shotover Country Music Concert, Arrowtown Entertainers Musical and the ever-popular Art Exhibition are always esteemed favourites. Arrowtown’s allure stretches across all ages, all nationalities and caters to everyone from the art-lover to the avid mountaineer. The Autumn Festival is the ideal time to fall in love with brilliant, bright and beautiful Arrowtown.

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Queenstown

DISCOVER YOUR TRUE COLOURS IN QUEENSTOWN by Ashley McKay

Queenstown

World-renowned for its majestic mountains and shimmering lakes, Queenstown’s dramatic change of seasons is ever-spectacular but none more so than in autumn. Leaves turn, igniting the already stunning landscape into a visual symphony of red, orange and gold. By late March, artists, photographers and awestruck travellers from around the world flock to Queenstown’s vibrant shores.

emperate autumn weather and an easy, relaxing pace makes Queenstown the perfect getaway to recoup, recharge and re-engage with nature. While mornings and evenings are crisp and refreshing, the still-warm days provide the perfect opportunity for outdoor fun and enjoyment. There is unending choice for high octane experiences. Choose to leap from a bridge, dive from an aeroplane,

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race the rocks and gulleys of a rapidfuelled river or coast through the skies with any of Queenstown’s highly experienced paragliders. Relax by the lake, play golf on one of the world-class courses, visit the numerous art galleries, objet’d’art shops, cafes or specialist gift stores. Walk or bike one of the many scenic tracks, visit awardwinning wineries or simply while away the days in perpetual bliss. For the ultimate in relaxation enjoy some ‘me’ time at one of

Queenstown’s day spas offering traditional and international treatments. Early autumn is all about the vino. It’s wine harvest season for Central Otago and the 200 plus vineyards are alive with grape fever as more than 6,000 tonnes of lush varieties such as famous Pinot’s and Reisling’s are harvested. Join international food and wine aficiandos at the ‘best of the best’ annual Gibbston Wine and Food

Festival held on the 16th of March. The festival is a harvest celebration reminescent of ancient times when the worship of Greek God Dionysus brought revellers together in decadent celebration. The Gibbston Wine and Food Festival showcases the region’s finest wines, wine celebrities, local produce and talented chefs. The region’s world renowned combination of shaly soil and sharply defined seasons provides the perfect growing conditions for the vineyards to produce award-winning wines, particularly Pinot noir. The entire region is an epicurean utopia and vineyard tours are an excellent option for discovering the internationally renowned wines and sumptuous food on offer in this incredible region. Fresh, seasonal produce utilised to perfection by local chef’s reflect the gentle drop in temperature and cooler weather brings a delectable array of flavours such as rosehip, crab apple and wild game. Rated number one in New Zealand by TripAdvisor’s 2011 Travelers’ Choice Food and Wine Destination Awards, Queenstown’s innovative and awardwinning cafés and restaurants offer cuisine to suit every palate, from the discerning connoisseur to a group looking for a fun, relaxed meal. A veritable melting pot of nationalities, cultures and influences serve up tantalising menus and you can choose from traditional pub, bistro, stylish café bar, Asian, designer burgers, Japanese, Indian, Chinese, Turkish or Mexican. Nearby, historic Arrowtown is a fine-dining hub and is also home to a French crêperie, delicatessen, bakery, traditional tavern and boutique brewery. Imagine dining al fresco as the warm autumn sun shines through bowers of gold. Then sink into opulence as cooler evenings entice you to Queensown’s eateries. Delve into the velvet carress of an awardwinning local Pinot noir by a roaring fire then head to any of the lively

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YES! We Stop

Near Your Queenstown Hotel*

local bars where the extensive wine lists facilitate your continued enjoyment of the local drop in style. Downtown Queenstown at night buzzes with vibrancy and life. Eclectic crowds of travellers and locals blend as one at the many stylish bars and sophisticated clubs. If esoteric congregation isn’t your thing around the corner you’ll find a hub of Kiwi pubs and late night hot spots where fashionable DJs keep dance floors pumping. Teapot cocktails and a roof that opens to the splendour of the night time sky are just two of the quirky features of a night out in Queenstown. Throw two high class casino’s and a quality performance scene bringing both local and international acts to the region and you have a recipe for frivolity and fun. For those on the hunt for the latest in fashion, art or eclectic wares Queenstown’s compact downtown area makes shopping pleasantly effortless. Stores are open every day, all day and much of the evening. The vast selection of designer clothing stores, beautiful jewellery shops, skate and surf outlets and high street fashion retailers create an atmosphere of cosmopolitan energy in one condensed, beautiful space.

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A short twenty minute drive or trip on a vintage double-decker bus away, nestled in a quaint, historic valley lies Arrowtown. World famous for it’s autumnal glory a visit to Arrowtown in autumn is like visiting Midas’s palace. The annual Arrowtown Autumn Festival, held 12-21 April, provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy the relaxed pace and colours of the season. A celebration of the vivid autumn colours and the rich history of the village, the festival puts on a number of communitybased events ranging from gold panning, guided historical walks and a vintage car rally to live music and theatre, an aerobatic display, and cooking demonstrations. This fascinating little township is delightful and magical. Hidden nooks and alleys lead you to exquisite cafes, galleries and stores harbouring the finest of wares. Exploring the tree-lined streets, old miners’ cottages, and the Lakes District Museum and restored Chinese miners’ settlement create a sense of awe and wonder at the tenacity of the early pioneering settlers. A wander along main street takes you past truly gorgeous heritage buildings house

contemporary award-winning restaurants and cafes, gourmet food and wine providores, boutique breweries and an array of superb retail and galleries. For the adventurer of any age biking is a fantastic way to explore the region. Experienced and conscientious operators and rental providers offer a range of hire packages, guided tours and gear options whether for an hour or a multi-day trip. Queenstown terrain is some of the best in the world for biking and walking ranging from easy scenic tracks, spectacular lakeside and backcountry trails and road rides to a jump park, heli-biking and the Southern Hemisphere’s only gondolaaccessed downhill mountain biking. Queenstown’s annual 10-day Bike Festival from 21 March - 1 April has given bike enthusiasts of all ages and abilities an added incentive to visit and extend their Easter autumn break to make the most of the action. With events ranging from the Tour de Wakatipu, Dirtmasters Downhill and Super D Enduro to social rides, bike movies and festival parties, its broad appeal has already gained international traction. Aptly known as the Southern Lakes, the region has an abundance of waterways for boat enthusiasts. Autumn is a wonderful time to enjoy the clear waters from comfortable launch charters, fishing boats, inflatable canoes or funyaks, jetboats or white water rafts. Whether you’re a first-timer or an old hand, once you’ve been fishing in and around Queenstown you’ll be hooked. World famous for its fly fishing, the crystal clear lakes, mountain rivers and streams are home to salmon, brown and rainbow trout. There’s a range of fishing adventures to suit all levels including dry fly fishing, spinning and trolling, wading, float tubing, backcountry fly fishing, or for the ultimate experience, take a helicopter into untouched wilderness. Experienced local guides can take you to the best spots on chartered cruises, guided day trips and multi-day expeditions. With the heady scent of autumn in the air and breathtaking foliage hues it is imperative visitors take a walk on any of the region’s comprehensive network

of walking trails. From a leisurely stroll around beautiful lakeside gardens to hiking up Queenstown Hill for magnificent 360 degree vistas to some serious hiking trails a short, scenic drive away, Queenstown offers walkers of all levels an incomparable backyard. Head to Glenorchy where the mountains are literally epic and there is an actual vale aptly named ‘Paradise’. You will be immersed in a land of unequivocable beauty where majestic valleys open the way to several world-famous multi-day hikes including the Routeburn Track, one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. The forty-five minute lakefront trip from Queenstown to Glenorchy is arguably one of the world’s best scenic drives. Set amongst snowcapped mountains, glacier-fed lakes and rivers and pristine national parks, Glenorchy has provided the background ‘wow’ factor for many international films including ‘The Lord of the Rings’. The village is quaint, rustic and endearing and serves up a smorgasboard of scrumptious dining options and accommodation ranging from internationally elite luxury lodges to rustic bed & breakfasts. For the utmost of high class accessories visit the Possum Lady at the Possum Store where you can purchase belly-button warmers for all your friends back home! Also on offer are a sumptuous range of possum fur products and New Zealand-made designer garments and gifts. Glenorchy is the gateway to Kinloch, the Rees Valley and Paradise, each of

these remarkable places a breathtaking landscape of wild forest, mountains and rivers. Explore on foot, by road or through the wilderness by jet boat, horseback or kayak. At the southernmost end of Lake Wakatipu is the pretty township of Kingston. The twisting, winding lakeside drive from Queenstown has a colourful history and many locals remember when it was a gravel track hewn out of the side of the Remarkable Mountains. A truly remarkable drive, forty-seven minutes from Queenstown’s center, this stunning piece of the region hosts secluded beaches and roadside picnic spots as well as iconic

cliff-top photo opportunities. Kingston’s lakeside setting, relaxed vibe and activities like walking tracks, boating and fishing, make it a popular holiday destination for families but its most iconic and muchloved attraction is the Kingston Flyer, a vintage steam train which runs from late October until April each year. Whether you choose to stay within walking distance of Queenstown’s heart or venture farther afield you’ll find friendly hosts and spectacular views. Accommodation ranges from budget to five-star with international chains of hotels and motels alongside backpacker properties, B&Bs, and luxury lodges.

FLUID11640

For bookings email queenstownreservations@skyline.co.nz or phone +64 3 441 0101. Brecon Street, Queenstown, New Zealand.

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Marvellous Millbrook

by Carla Munro

Total, utter and complete relaxation. This is what I want, what I need, what I am yearning for. Husband in tow, I head for Millbrook Resort in Arrowtown.

entrally located in the heart of one of the world’s most beautiful regions, Millbrook Resort has the perfect blend of luxury features ideal for a weekend, a week, a lifetime of pure indulgence. Personally, I’m all about the spa! Pluck me, scrub me, pamper me into blissful oblivion! While husband is kept well-and-truly occupied on one of the three nine-hole golf courses, I will be immersed in absolute indulgence. Global golf afficiennado my husband is not. Fortunately, Millbrook has just the man for the oneous task. Allan McKay has clocked over 24,000 private lessons in his 39-year golfing career. Chairman of the NZPGA for six years and a member for 39, Allan was a key personality in bringing the irrepressible Tiger Woods to New Zealand

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in 2002. A man of this calibre and fortitude will no doubt whip golfing-recalcitrant husband into shape. World Travel Awards has voted Millbrook Resort the best Golf Course Resort in New Zealand and Australasia for three years running. The names of the three nine-hole golf courses hint at the spectacular, outstanding, mind-blowing views from the world’s most scenic golf course. The Remarakbles, The Arrow, The Coronet Nine. Yes, I can see the magnificently striking

Millbrook... come for a day, a weekend or a lifetime.

Welcome to Millbrook Resort, Queenstown. This winter we invite you toâ&#x20AC;Ś Enjoy any of the nearby ski fields Challenge yourself on our 27 hole golf course Relax and rejuvenate in our award winning spa Experience a taste sensation in one of our 4 restaurants Rest your head in our luxurious 5* accommodation Book your Millbrook winter escape today.

Call us on 03 441 7000 or visit www.millbrook.co.nz www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Remarkables as we wind our way past the rustically dignified and impressive timber gateway, rolling greens and glossy ponds. Coronet Peak, still gently brushed with snow, stands at massive attention to my right and I’m looking forward to the five minute trip to the historic gold-yeilding Arrow River. Purely crystalline waters tease the quartz and schist rocks sparkling in the river bed, the Arrow has been fessing up gold for over 150 years. I believe a wee try at gold-panning may just be on the cards... Before the gold hunt begins, however, I have a serious level of rapture to attain. Before I can sprint to the spa there is the room to check into. Not so much a ‘room’ as a utopian hall of decadence, we have chosen to treat ourselves in one of the Fairway Homes. Fond of family holidays with friends, sampling the spaciousness, privacy and French Provincial class of a Fairway Home was high on my priority list for a perfect getaway. I love my orchard at home, it’s one of my most beloved spots on the planet and the Fairway Home we arrive at is sweetly named Orchard Hill, number five. This beautiful home reminds me of a gorgeous little hotel in Lagnes, Provence. Like the Le Mas des Gres, Orchard Hill is honeysuckle gold and stone, quaintly set among lush green lawns and pretty, bright gardens. Unlike the Le Mas des Gres Orchard Hill’s grand entrance is representative of the rest of the magnificent house. Room aplenty for up to eight people Orchard Hill is gorgeous,

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tasteful and top-of-the-line with space galore. There are plenty of accommodation options at Millbrook. I was definitely tempted by the cute-as-cherry-pie Cottages, the executive-lush Villa Suites and the Provence-inspired Hotel Villa’s. Every option has it’s own charms and distinct chic and all have full access to the marvellous onsite facilities. Speaking of Spa’s...

The Spa at Millbrook offers more than just a series of treatments, it offers total rejuvination of mind, body and spirit. Strategiacally placed windows bring the magical mountainous views into the spa with you and tranquility and peace reign supreme. It is no surprise this idyllic spa is one of Queenstowns most awarded and prestigious spas. It’s clear it’s not just the fairways that are manicured daily here at Millbrook. The treatment rooms are quietly bustling with ladies of leisure, a deserving

mother or two and glamorously capable beauty therapists ushering guests in gently hushed professionalism. How does one choose just one treatment? There is an incontrovertible profusion of lavish treatments and decadent concoctions to massage, soak and baste in. It can only be the Day Dream four hour treatment for me including a Monticelli Mud Body Ritual and a Glorious Skin Super Lifting Facial. Oh yes. Oh, oh, oh my goodness, yes!

a’la’carte menu and the awesome display of cleaver-wielding skill of the teppanyaki chefs and we are utterly blown away. A sucker for a fine cut of prime I order the Wagyu Beef - teppanyaki style. Wagyu Beef is bred in Victoria, Australia and spends 650 days on a Japanese feed regime, well over and above the usual 100 days. Hence the flavour, texture, succulence of Wagyu Beef is the ultimate epicurean experience of any meat-lover and this meat-lover is utterly sated.

I wanted relaxation from Millbrook - I got sheer bliss. I wanted a break away from the assiduously exacting daily routine - I got a Utopian respite. I wanted a place both husband and I could enjoy. I got the perfectly perfect weekend filled with treats for me, fun for him and magic memories for us both. Millbrook Resort has given us a magnificent weekend in every possible way.

All this therapuetic cosseting has inspired a ravenous appetite and I’m ready for Teppanyaki. Millbrook Resort now has two fabulous eateries - the traditional and ultimately classic fine dining Millhouse Restaurant is a must and thank goodness we’re here for two nights! Locally hunted wild game, rare Wagyu Beef, fresh famously grilled salmon, sumptious delectation and scrumptiousness! As well as breakfast in the Clubhouse and lunch at The Hole in One, we will be truly spoiled for fresh, great food. Tonight, however, it’s Millbrook’s brand new Teppanyaki restaurant Kobe Cuisine. Queenstown’s only teppanyaki grill Millbrook’s new Kobe Cuisine Japanese restaurant and teppanyaki grill is a harmonious blend of rustic charm, breathtaking views and traditional Japanese cuisine. Add an inspired Asian

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Country and Close

by Carla Munro

Capturing the rural and raw essence of a South Island high country station, Bendemeer is an exclusive lifestyle development minutes from beautiful Queenstown and Arrowtown.

ith sweeping panoramic views, secluded home sites and your choice of inspired architecture Bendemeer is the ultimate country living experience. All the facilities essential for a country resort of such high calibre are here. An International Airport mere minutes away, your choice of several remarkable ski fields, a plethora of premium discerning shopping and a host of Queenstown and Arrowtown’s best five-star restaurants - Bendemeer is a succulent peach of an investment. Excitement abounds as renowned architects Mason and Wales Architects release their executive designs for future concept homes due to start construction by summers end. The original concept home was designed by award-winning

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architect Francis Whitaker. His goal to reflect the form and rural outlook of the land is inherently captured by the use of local materials schist and cedar and the all-encompassing windows with dreamlike views of the lake. A grand sense of space inspired the design of a further four concept homes all utilising the timeless elegance of schist and ceder. “Bendemeer is a very special place because of its seclusion and privacy, and the way in which it connects with the rim of mountains that wrap around the Wakatipu Basin. It’s a wonderful sense of space,” Francis Whitaker says. Historically a working sheep station the inspiration of the blended traditional/ contempory design of the homes comes

from the agrarian setting amidst the imposing alpine landscape making the most of all day sun and vists to rival the Riviera. Private mountain lakes, abundant wildlife, tree-laced lanes and gently rolling tundra create an exquisite and exclusive property for the very discerning. Prestigious and private, future residents of Bendemeer will be counted among the fortuitous elite. Bendemeer sections range from one to three hectares and are priced from $645,000 with land and house packages starting from $ 1.8million. Not to be missed, the opportunity to be part of the luxury that is Bendemeer is a once in a lifetime investment for you and your children and your children’s children.

Create your own living experience today

Within Bendemeer, an exclusive rural development, large, elevated, secluded and fully serviced residential sites are being developed now. Our range of house and land packages start from $1.8 million.

Bendemeer offers relaxed rural living, close to golf courses, vineyards, ski fields and Queenstownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International airport to deliver you the ultimate lifestyle experience.

Owners within this exclusive community share the award-winning lakeside pavilion complete with entertainment deck and jetty, a tennis court and walking tracks.

Stunning panoramic views coupled with inspired architectural design will create the ultimate living experience youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been looking for.

www.bendemeer.co.nz 0508 BENDEMEER

For more information on this unique opportunity please contact Sarah today on: 0508 bendemeer or sarah.cairns@bendemeer.co.nz Bendemeer: 903 State Highway 6, Bendemeer Lane, Lakes Hayes, Queenstown

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Hilton Queenstown Unveils Stunning Lakeside Residences by Gary Cody

Hilton Queenstown has opened the doors to a suite of stunning residences.

ilton Lakeside Residences are 42 one and two bedroom hotel residences with apartment-style facilities. The elegant, open-plan spaces have a versatile design catering to the needs of both leisure and corporate visitors. The residences offer the independence and flexibility of self-contained accommodation, with the style and services of Hilton Queenstown. Andrew Nisbet, general manager, Hilton Queenstown, said “Hilton Lakeside Residences are stunning rooms that will attract discerning guests who seek greater freedom. The residences complement the existing

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Hilton Queenstown facilities beautifully and allow us to offer even more options to visitors of Kawarau Village.” The residence’s incredible location, positioned right on the lakefront, facing north for longer sunshine hours, is maximised by a generous sun-drenched balcony or terrace from each residence, furnished with comfortable outdoor furniture. Most residences have panoramic views overlooking Lake Wakatipu. Guests can unwind in a separate living room, bathed in natural light from the floor

to ceiling windows. The elegant décor takes inspiration from Hilton Queenstown’s lakefront position and the alpine character of the resort. A classic lounge suite provides guests with

a welcoming sense of home and the gas feature fire place adds instant ambience and warmth. Living room facilities include a large flat screen television, iPod dock and DVD and CD player. Some residences have an additional television in the master bedroom. The stylish, fully-equipped kitchen includes a full size fridge-freezer, microwave and oven and most include a dishwasher. Guests can entertain at the dining room table, enjoying a beautiful meal prepared in their own kitchen, or delivered from in-room dining or one of the several restaurants onsite. The designer bathroom includes modern laundry facilities and many offer a separate bath. The 24 two bedroom deluxe lakeview residences feature a second bathroom. The residence wing is accessible from the main Hilton Queenstown and offers its own fitness suite and direct access to covered car parking. The new residences are perfectly suited to executive retreats, corporate groups, sports teams, and leisure travellers especially targeted at the family, golf and ski markets. Hilton Lakeside Residences increase Hilton Queenstownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s total inventory to 220 rooms, and further cements the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s position as being one of the leading leisure resorts in New Zealand. Visit Queenstown.hilton.com for more information and to view special opening rates.

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SOUTH ISLAND TOURISM OPERATOR INVESTS MILLIONS IN NEW HIGH-SPEED CATAMARAN Premier South Island tourism company Southern Discoveries is continuing to invest in new business opportunities after signing on the dotted line for a multi-million-dollar new high-speed catamaran.

he purpose-built 26m highspeed catamaran, to be known as the Spirit of Queenstown, will launch for the start of the 2013/14 summer season. She will carry up to 150 passengers from Queenstown across the pristine waters of Lake Wakatipu to the normally inaccessible Mt Nicholas Station for an authentic and nature-based experience. Southern Discoveries will be the only company offering excursions to Mt Nicholas Station, which will undergo some developments in order to host the trip. Designed by Brett Crowther of Incat Crowther, a very reputable boat designer with several examples of their designs already operating in New Zealand, construction will be by Aluminium Marine Pty Ltd of Brisbane. The finished catamaran will be sailed to New Zealand and then transported

from Bluff to Kingston where she will be launched on Lake Wakatipu. Southern Discoveries General Manager John Robson said the decision to invest in the single-level catamaran was a significant one that reflected the entrepreneurial and forward thinking visions of the Queenstown-based Skeggs Group, owners of the company. “Over the last four years Southern Discoveries has gone from strength to strength thanks to continued investment in its current products as well as new opportunities,” he said. “The latest investment is one we have been discussing and planning for more than a year, so it’s hugely exciting to be able to finally announce that we’re going ahead.” Over the past four years the company has re-branded from Milford Sound Red Boats to Southern Discoveries, acquired Te

Anau-based coach and tour operation Go Milford, invested in a 50% shareholding in KJet (formerly Kawarau Jet) and reopened the Milford Discovery Centre and Milford Deep Underwater Observatory. In addition, the company launched a new kayak operation in Milford Sound, opened new visitor information centres in Queenstown, and launched a scenic sightseeing cruise on Lake Wakatipu aboard the Queenstown Princess. “We’re happy that we have been successful and sustainable in our expansion aims, but also that we’ve maintained our status as tourism operator of excellence, in keeping with this incredible region we operate in,” said Mr Robson. As well as running daily operations with a range of product packages which are still being finalised, the new Spirit of Queenstown catamaran will also be available for private charter and conference and incentive work.

A concept image of the new Southern Discoveries Spirit of Queenstown catamaran on Lake Wakatipu

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Gibbston Valley Cheese Company

SAY CHEESE! by Carla Munro

Handcrafted sheep, cow and goats’ milk cheeses are the speciality and pride of Gibbston Valley Cheese Company.

ocated in Central Otago’s iconic Valley of Vines, worldfamous for its award-winning Pinot noir wine, Gibbston Valley Cheese Company snuggles against the backdrop of vineyards and majestic southern mountains - the unadulterated companion to any artisan cheese! Sample cheeses such as the Brinza - a low salt sheep milk feta, the Balfour - hard pressed pecorino-style sheep milk cheese, the Glenroy cow milk cheddar style, the Mt Scott havarti style and the Takatimu goats’ milk gouda. Enjoy a delicatessen platter with a selection of cheeses, nuts, fruits and cured meats in the sun-drenched courtyard. They also offer a cafe and fabulously stocked gift store filled with innovative curios from around the country.

Complimentary cheese tastings are a must. Owners, Kev and Bess Paul, have created a rustic haven for cheeselovers and travellers passing through the stunning Gibbston Valley between Cromwell and Queenstown. Their commitment to quality includes ensuring their cheeses are GE Free and are produced in traditional European style. Hire a hamper and you will be given a map to a number of the local vineyards where Gibbston Valley Cheese Company have matched their cheese to the wine. A fantastic and fun outing for the day. Just remember to drop the hamper back! Fall in love with cheese all over again and taking it home or sharing with friends is easy as Gibbston Valley Cheese Company

offer a selection of exquisite gift boxes and hampers that can be sent anywhere within New Zealand. An ideal stop for that much needed bite to eat on your wine tour or sojourn, Gibbston Valley Cheese Factory takes the cheese out of cheesy and turns it into a divinely delicious product made right here in New Zealand’s premier holiday destination. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Tekapo/Mt Cook

ALPINE EXCITEMENT by Carla Munro

Tekapo /Mt Cook

While sitting in my office in Brisbane, I often reminisce about many wonderful holidays spent in the South Island of New Zealand. My siblings and I were lucky enough to be introduced to this ‘slice of paradise’ at an early age, with our parents packing us up in our trusty old camper for many a road trip to discover the unspoilt beauty which exists down there.

y wife and I have lived in Brisbane for 12 years, and have two young children. This year we decided it was time for them to start discovering the many treasures which abound across the Tasman. We chose to fly in and out of Christchurch with our base then being Lake Tekapo which is an easy three hour drive from Christchurch.

abundance of outdoor opportunities. Our main aim was to give our children the chance to experience snow for the first time, so we spent a few fun-filled days up at the local skifield – Roundhill is only half an hour drive around the lake from the township, and has great options for beginners right through to advanced level skiers and boarders, with the luxury of no chairlift queues!

We booked a holiday home online which had magnificent views of picturesque Lake Tekapo and the surrounding mountains. The colour of the lake is truly incredible, the turquoise waters look so inviting until you realise it is a very chilly 8 degrees! The Lake Tekapo area is blessed with an

One evening we decided to check out Tekapo Springs. This recreation complex has been purpose built and has much to offer holiday makers. The facility is nestled into the base of Mt John below the famous observaotry and only a couple of minutes around the lake from the central township.

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Tekapo Springs provides a range of activities, and you can choose to do one or more of these, with a range of combos

We chose to fly in and out of Christchurch with our base then being Lake Tekapo which is an easy three-hour drive from Christchurch.

HOT POOLS DAY SPA SKATING RINK SUMMER TUBE LICENSED CAFÉ

on offer. They have three stunning outdoor hot pools, an ice skating rink, tubing park, a boutique day spa, and a cosy café and bar area. We decided some fun and relaxation was in order, so we opted for the ‘soak and tube’ combo. The tube park is built on a slope covered in a mix of natural and man-made snow. The magic carpet quickly transported us up to the top of the slope, and then we slid down the slope on large rubber tubes. Our tickets gave us as many rides as we wanted for a one hour period. We

Our bellies were rumbling so it was time to enjoy a pre-dinner drink beside the roaring outdoor fireplace, before settling at a table by the window overlooking the lake.

After our day up the mountain our bodies were in need of some relaxation too, so we spent the next hour immersing ourselves in the beautiful hot pools. These take in the stunning snow covered mountains around the Lake Tekapo basin and were the perfect end to an enthralling day. I booked a luxurious massage for my wife at the Tekapo Springs day spa for the following morning.

My wife and I enjoyed some beautifully cooked fresh local salmon and the kids delved into their delicious burgers.

This definitely earned me some brownie points, and there is no doubt we will return to this very special place again.

had huge amounts of fun barrelling down the snowy slope, and we even had a few snowflakes falling down around us. This activity was great for our children, but just as much fun for us ‘big kids’.

We had huge amounts of fun barrelling down the snowy slope, and we even had a few snowflakes falling down around us.

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established Tekapo Flying from LakeLakeTekapo since1970 1970

Experience a spectacular AIR SAFARIS 50 minute “Grand Traverse” flightseeing tour of Aoraki Mount Cook and glaciers. Covers over 200 km and highlights include: Aoraki Mount Cook and Mount Tasman Tasman & Murchison glaciers - Franz Josef & Fox glaciers plus much more!!

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Akaroa

A SOJOURN IN LITTLE PARADISE by Carla Munro

My journey to Akaroa leads me a merry meander through tranquil countryside to boulder-hewn hills reminiscent of a succession of giant, knobble-backed tortoises.

Canterbury

ast the rambling hills daubed with rock, round a corner dripping with foxgloves, through a delightful village aptly named Little River and you are halfway there. All that remains is a twenty-minute sojourn up, up, up, winding and twisting all the way, cresting at the Hilltop Tavern and wending downward towards Barry’s Bay, Duvauchelle and finally Akaroa. Tempted to stop at every inlet, especially Barry’s Bay where I discover to my inexplicable joy they have just made fresh cheeses and still warm curds are available to purchase by the bag, I soldier on to my destination. I have visited the website. I have heard the reviews. I have seen pictures on travel blogs. I am simply desperate to reach Maison de la Mer! Historically

predominantly

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French

settlement, Akaroa is steeped in all things French! The Rue Lavaud, Rue Benoit and Rue Jollie are just three of the streets with a French connection. Maison de la Mer is no exception. Loosely translated meaning ‘House by the Sea’, Maison de la Mer nestles against a backdrop of trees and is surrounded by beautiful country gardens rich in roses. The stunning seaside-white house commands a spectacular view of the Akaroa harbour and is within a hop, skip and jump to some of the regions best and most delectable eateries. I am literally in heaven! French décor – magnifique! The scent of roses mingling with fresh sea air! Hosts who make me feel like long-lost family! Oh là là! Carol and Bruce Hyland know how to make you welcome. They also know

how to make you never want to leave. Why would I? I am immersed in Frenchie decadence and joie de vivre and tonight I dine at The Little Bistro, which I am surprised does not begin its name with ‘le petit’. Quaint, and darling with black and white striped awnings and an exuberant use of the humble yet trendy chalkboard, The Little Bistro treats me to an indulgent feast of rustically European-inspired food. Akaroa is imbued in both history and culture so it is no wonder art has taken a firm hold on this small, gorgeously appointed seaside village. The following day finds me wandering the main street, drawn to the vintage market, the Akaroa Art Gallery and the multitude of picturesque stores offering everything from contemporary New Zealand art to quirky souvenirs to antique French keepsakes.

A TASTE OF MEDITERRANEAN IN AKAROA - NEW ZEALAND Come and enjoy a taste of our delicious dishes inspired by authentic Mediterranean cuisine served with selected wines in a relaxed environment. We are small and cosy family-run restaurant in one of the most beautiful parts of New Zealand, which is well worth a visit. We believe in simple, rustic, seasonal fare lovingly put together with the best ingredients. If we can make something ourselves, we will - fresh breads and pastries, pizza base and tomato souce, pasta, gelato, a wide range of cured meats (coppa, chorizo, smoked salmon, pancetta, garlic saucisson, bresaola). And we grow our own herbs and seasonal vegetables - the rest is carefully sourced from local producers.

Almost opposite the Akaroa Art Gallery – an absolutely incredible trove of vintage couture and the breathtaking work of local artisans – I find Vangionis. A Mediterranean Trattoria in the heart of Akaroa. Scrumptious Tapas dishes, Paella and Paua Tortellini wrest my avid eyes from my usual prime Canterbury rib eye and wild pork dishes. The options are just too good! And there’s even tradizionale Pizza! A few days in Akaroa are truly not enough. The sheer littoral beauty of the place merits poetry and songs. Food and wine and Olive Oil grown and sourced locally enliven every sense. Maison de la Mer, words cannot describe the sanctuary, the bliss, the utter relaxation of this stunning luxury Bed & Breakfast. Akaroa is a must visit, and a must visit in style. Spoiled for choice, The Little Bistro and Vangionis are just two of the epicurean shrines to good food in this small, beautiful village and I am personally longing to go back.

Come in and join us for a great night out! Rue Brittan, Akaroa - Phone: 03-3047714

www.vangionis.co.nz

Did I even mention the dolphins? Sacré bleu!

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Grasmere Lodge

by Carla Munro

There is an indefinable quality about Grasmere Lodge, in the crux of Canterbury’s high country.

he very essence of Grasmere radiates serenity. We turn into the long driveway, the dramatic Southern Alps our backdrop, and coast our way to the grand yet welcoming front door. The lodge is beautiful, this is to be expected, but there is something endearing, enchanting and enigmatic about this grand old lady. I feel close to her, drawn to her and I cannot help but smile. I feel I’ve come to visit a favourite aunt. A favourite aunt who hunts, fishes and has spent her 162 years on horseback.

Man of enduring spirit. A gentleman and one of the friendliest luxury lodge owners I have ever met, he is both understated and genuine. His passion is this land, this divinely-wrought slice of heaven nature has gifted us with and sharing is with his guests.

Owner and host Tom Butler is a Southern

Grasmere Lodge is everything I want in

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A tour of the property reveals a rustically romantic wine celler by the pool, mountain hideaway challets nestled among a thickly wooded grove, the riverside cottage - an idyll for the avid fisherman - and the lodge itself - a tribute to the country gentleman.

a wild, mountainside luxury lodge but honestly, my flight in the helicopter was amazing. The chance to soar above the Southern Alps, down the exotic West Coast of the South Island and land on Fox Glacier is an experience of a lifetime. At Grasmere Lodge this dreamlike trip is reality, taking off from the lush green lawn to the crisp white snow. One international guest has described Grasmere Lodge as ‘a whole other world of peacefulness and serenity.’ I agree, and have to add ‘and a place where earth and sky invigorate the soul.’

Geraldine TOP TOWN

by Gary Cody

There are two country towns in New Zealand that would have to be the finest rural boroughs in the country. The North Island choice is undoubtedly Cambridge with Geraldine taking the South Island title.

t was when my Geraldine adventure was being organised I started to become quite excited. Not only would I be partaking in the touristy side of the area, it was Christmas Race Day while I was there. A pleasant drive from my base in Arrowtown ended me in Geraldine after a leisurely three hours. I stopped over in Tekapo to enjoy a dip in the rejuvenating Tekapo Springs hot pools, enjoying the wonderful countryside yet again. I never tire of this changing scenery and seasonal colours. My check in at The Downs B&B was pleasant and friendly. The room was spotlessly clean and the bed extremely comfortable. The beautiful breakfast

offering in the morning was also one of the highlights of this great property perched above the town with a rural feel and birdsong that would give any outdoor type a huge â&#x20AC;&#x153;buzzâ&#x20AC;? . Myron and Alycen Cournane have been in the accommodation business a long time and know how to make ones stay a pleasant and informative event. They even transported me to The Geraldine Races Christmas meeting - that was a great day out. Growing up in a similar type of environment I felt completely at home at

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the Orari Racecourse and was invited to a Corporate Marquee which really put the icing on the cake for a wonderful day out. The sun shone, the horses and â&#x20AC;&#x153;filliesâ&#x20AC;? looked amazing however the punting was not really up to scratch. The people are friendly and warm and could not do enough to make sure visitors were well looked after.

The next day it was off to Barkers store, a long time family business that produces fruit drinks, chutneys, jam and many other fruit-related delicacies including local ice cream in an amazing store right in the heart of Geraldine. Parking is convenient and the shops in the little complex are a great browse for any traveller staying or passing through the town. The Giant Jersey is another attraction downtown which houses a 42 metre Medieval Mosaic - a recreation of the Bayeux Tapestry using the teeth of knitting machine pattern discs. It took 25 years to complete. It is approximately half scale. This is a work of pure art by a man who is passionate about what he has achieved, a real labour of love and will take you on

The Downs 80

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a journey along the piece at the rear of the shop. It is housed in a knitting shop, as the name suggests, and is home to the largest knitted jersey in the world. A Guinness world record to say the least. The best was yet to come. A half day trek with Bert, a local legend. Bert & Pennie How are the owner/operators of Peel Forest Horse Trekking which they do in conjunction with their Peel Forest Lodge as well as Peel Forest Safaris. The Horse Trekking side of their business has been running for five years and has become well established with clients coming from all over the world, all year round. Treks leave from their purpose built base along side the Rangitata River. They have been very careful in their selection of horses and ponies and are confident, that no matter what your ability

Tasty treats since 1969.

They’re all

or age, they will have a suitable mount. Safety is very important and they ensure that everyone is given a briefing on riding skills and is correctly fitted with a helmet and footwear. All the guides are very experienced in horsemanship. The river crossing was a highlight and I would definitely book the full day or the overnight on my next visit. Bert is a real character and will keep you entertained with great yarns and interesting information on the local area.

blue cod fish and salad, and a glass of their ginger beer. This was a great choice, from a uncluttered, and simple menu. The staff were really attentive and friendly. The location of this cafe is awesome and very peaceful. Go that little bit further out of Geraldine, to experience something special, that isn’t found in the township. The beer tasting option was well worth the effort and after my meal I was more than ready for the drive back to The Lakes district.

here for sampling at our Geraldine shop.

Geraldine, I will be back next year to recover my gambling losses.

After the horses it was in the car and off for lunch at the relatively new Brewery and Café situated a few kilometers south of Geraldine on the road to Queenstown. Local Geraldine people suggested I might like to visit this cafe, and I am very glad I did. I chose the

Four Peaks Plaza Talbot Street, Geraldine Open 7 Days 9.00am to 5.30pm Phone/Fax: 03 693 9727 Email: barkers.shop@barkers.co.nz

www.barkers.co.nz

TO TEKAPO

TO TIMARU

TALBOT ST TO CHRISTCHURCH

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Hurunui

HELLO RELAXATION, GOODBYE STRESS by Dave Mitchell

If there’s a perfect setting in the world for a perfect spa experience, it has to be at Hanmer Springs. Take a picturesque high country mountain village, an international award-winning thermal pools complex and then top it off with a $3 million spa retreat, unparalleled in New Zealand.

anmer Springs is dear to my heart. As children we spent hours at the pools, emerging wrinkled and happy, warm and refreshed, dying for a milkshake. Time moves on. The pools are still the prime attraction for me, but now every visit to this Hurunui beauty spot involves not only a swim in any of the 15 open air thermal pools, but most definitely an hour at The Spa in Hanmer Springs. Officially opened in 2007, and sited beside the pools complex, the spa is divine. Yes, it is the leader in the health and beauty spa business nationally, and the busiest. But more than that, it transports you to another realm of beauty altogether. I can sense the difference as I walk in the door. There’s nothing stark, clinical or white here. I’m in a seriously stylish, spacious, modern, environment with lots of stone and wood, soft lighting and serene ambience. I’m in another world immediately – I’m starting to feel like the rich and famous, and I haven’t even signed in! Ideally I should have booked before arriving, but happily there’s

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time available and I opt for the Seasonal Facial, a 40min treatment which gets a ‘highly recommended’ status from the Spa itself, and afterwards, also from me. Is there anything nicer than being pampered by a professional therapist? Someone trained and dedicated, who doesn’t chatter, but is content to let you relax in absolute peace. The occasional snore should be regarded as a sign of absolute appreciation. But I’m jumping ahead. Booked in, I’m taken to the change room where there are showers, toilets and lockers for clothes, and I am handed a white gown and slippers. Once clad, I’m invited to wait for my therapist in a beautiful Japaneseinspired relaxation lounge, with quality magazines, delicious herbal teas, and comfortable chairs. She arrives silently, speaks softly and takes me off to one of the 12 luxurious treatment rooms cleverly sited behind natural wood walls. The light and music are low, the conversation is minimal and the serious business of restoration, hydration, relaxation, and guiltfree goodness begins. My face loves it. My brain slows down. My

Hurunui

pulse steadies. For once, I just am. My therapist is hard at work, with soothing and repetitive motions, applying scrubs, creams and lotions including some from the Spa’s own privately developed skin care range, Alpine Aqua. Forty minutes fly. All too soon I’m back in the waiting room, sipping a glass of water and a tangy herbal tea, chatting with a couple of other similarly pampered and recharged guests. They say they regularly travel the 90 minutes from Christchurch. Next time I’m going to have either the chocolate regenerative care facial, or a traditional hot stone massage. Or maybe that should be the Alpine Aqua Detox Wrap, or a Deluxe Spa Pedicure. Time now to explore the upmarket shopping in the village, decide on a restaurant for dinner, and check out the range of accommodation.

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West Coast

THE WILD WILD WEST by Chris Birt

West Coast

Biting the head off a wriggling little creature – especially one that is fighting for its very survival – isn’t something most would contemplate.

ut safe in the knowledge that the forest-dwelling Maori of early New Zealand have lived off these little white grubs for hundreds of years, without ill effect it appears, I position this creature appropriately, close my eyes and, summoning the strength of Hercules, clench my teeth. The wriggling little grub wriggles no more. Now for part two – the main meal! The locals have assured me that the taste produced by a huhu grub is akin to that of peanut butter. They are right, but of course the thought of munching on something that has been extracted from a rotten pine log requires an extreme bout of courage, especially from one who has a particular aversion to anything that wriggles or flies. For those who do not possess such intestinal fortitude, the Hokitika Wildfoods Festival – set down for the weekend of 9-10 March 2013 – has more than enough

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on offer to satisfy the biggest of hungers and the greatest of curiosities. But be warned, it is a festival of wild foods and those who attended are expected to partake, just as they are expected to get out of their usual attire and into something far more imaginative. The festival I attended, almost a year ago

now, was one of my most memorable ever and this year’s events will follow the tried and true recipe developed by local resident Claire Bryant in 1990 – great food of a variety that isn’t found in a restaurant, great entertainment and the great hospitality that sets the West Coast of the South Island apart from the rest of New Zealand.

New wild foods are introduced each year and with delicacies such as wasp larvae ice cream, cucumber fish, sheep milk cheeses and wok-fried clams, there is certainly enough variety to make a visit at this time of the year a must for any traveller with a penchant for the unusual and the unexpected. It’s the quirkiness of the event that brings people from around the world to what has become one of the most iconic events on offer in 21st century New Zealand. The food has a lot to do with it, but there’s a lot more to the Hokitika Wildfoods Festival than just the cuisine. Kiwis have always been good hunters and gatherers, a relic of their pioneering history and the lessons the early European settlers learned from the indigenous people who were here before them. By their nature, wild foods are usually lean and healthy, so there’s little that will do anyone coming to the Coast any real harm. Australian visitors often cite this festival as being one of the highlights of any trip to New Zealand and many of them return again and again to see what is new on the menu. It’s akin to getting a chance to sample real bush tucker at home, but for many it’s the first time they have tasted some of the foods that originate in their own country. Possum is not something

you’d eat in Australia – contrast the tens of millions of these furry forest-eating pests in New Zealand with the fact they are an endangered species across the Tasman – but you can sink your teeth into meat from such animal at the Hokitika Wildfoods Festival. Crocodile and kangaroo meat is also on the menu at some of the 50 or so stalls that dispense almost every wild food variety known to the human race – at least in this part of the world. The festival itself is staged from 10am 5.30pm on the Saturday, with the entertainment definitely slanted toward the style you’d expect in such a locality. You won’t find heavy metal blasting out at this event, but military and brass bands playing pop and rock covers are always a hit. Easy listening, bluegrass, country and folk is the order of the day, with some of the country’s best known musicians coming to the Coast to deliver it. Good, solid, home-grown entertainment, both on stage

and from roving musicians who relish the chance to be part of it and to provide their own distinctive sounds. In true Coast style, the gala dance on the Saturday night is a fitting finale to a day which has promised much, and delivered more than I can contemplate. Starting in a giant marquee at 8pm, I stagger into bed just after 1am, joining the thousands of

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others staying at the make-shift campsites set up by community groups whose members work tirelessly each year to ensure that those who travel here have the facilities required for a restful night after what is, without any question, a full-on day of sights, sounds and tastes. As I predict, few heads appear from beneath the sea of canvas much before noon. The Hokitika Wildfoods Festival is by no means the only thing going on the West Coast of the Southern Alps in the autumn months, a period which produces the most settled weather across this thin ribbon of lush green and emerald blue alongside the Tasman Sea. As the summer haze gives way to softer tones, and as the hot tropical winds blown in from Australia begin to abate, the West Coast begins its march into the season of hibernation which the snows bring to the region. Unlike the peak summer season, when coaches and campervans are seen in their hundreds, autumn always delivers as opportunity for a less hectic holiday experience, but with the chance for adventure still around every corner. But for those who can time their travels to perfection, the Hokitika Wildfoods Festival is an event not to be missed. Six years after being created this truly unique assembly of hunters and gatherers – and all those

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who enjoy the fruits of their labours – was formally declared this country’s most unique event, going on to collect national honours in the New Zealand Tourism Awards. Twenty one years after it emerged, this festival is one of the must-do events in New Zealand for those who want to experience hospitality as it was in an era long forgotten by the modern world and for the foods of the forest on which our forefathers depended for sustenance during the course of their everyday lives. Bringing instantaneous death to a little wriggling huhu – in the interests of a truly unique culinary experience of course –

may not be to everyone’s taste, but for those not inclined to be a real life version of Braveheart, there are still garlic-flavoured escargot, pukeko slices, paradise duck breasts or smoked trout, to name but a few of the tasty morsels provided in this quaint little settlement of just 3,300 hardy souls. There’s not another event in the world that offers the chance to sample peanut butter in such a weird and wonderful way, let alone experience such warmth and hospitality from a legion of complete strangers. And at the end of the day, it is life’s simple pleasures that really count for everything.

For simply the best underworld adventure come to Underworld Rafting or the dry GlowWorm Cave Tour

Flights depart daily from Hokitika Airport, West Coast, South Island, New Zealand

Call Free 0800 755 8118 ﬂy@wildernesswings.co.nz www.wildernesswings.co.nz

Experience New Zealand’s premiere flightseeing with a MT COOK and GLACIERS scenic flight! • Enjoy spectacular views of our famous Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. • Alpine landings and charter flights. • Group discounts available. • West Coast family owned and operated since 1992.

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Buller

TOP OF THE WEST COAST by Claire Clinton

Buller

“This one’s called Gunslinger – listen for the calls, right side back paddle! Over left! Hold on!”, called our guide as we plunged head first into the next rapid on the mighty mighty Buller River!

t was a beautiful summer’s morning as my husband and I departed from our base of Westport. We had thoroughly explored all Westport has to offer. The natural beauty of the Northern parts of Buller including Karamea’s Oparara Arches, the breathtaking coastal walks of Punakaiki to the South and the heritage of Reefton to the East. We were now setting off in search of adventure on the mighty Buller River with Wild Rivers Rafting! On the way to Nelson we met the rafting company at the Iron Bridge, high above the river. The team informed us when booking our trip that, due to a few days heavy rain, the river was high and should make for an exciting ride, especially as the Buller has the biggest catchment area in New Zealand! Great news – we thought- this is exactly what the doctor ordered to clear away the cobwebs!

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It was a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius with no wind as we set off in the bus on the 10 minute drive to the ‘put in’ where we enter the river. First we needed to get geared up; safety first of course. We were kitted out from head to toe with vests, wetsuits, spray jackets, boots, life jackets and helmets. We were quite cosy standing on the bank and ready to get wet to cool off! A group of six were in one raft with guide Bruce and our group of four in the other raft with our guide Marty. I was informed that our two guides had rafted the Buller the most, having been guides for 30 years! The sun streamed down on us as we floated off from the bank onto the ‘flat water’ at the start of our journey. This was our time to learn the calls from our guides and how we were going to all reach the end still in the raft! We were taught how to respond to calls such as ‘forward paddle’, ‘right side back

paddle’, ‘hold on’, ‘get down hold on’ (for the big ones) ‘on the job’ of course meaning back to work! There was a great flow in the river so there was very little paddling required from us as we meandered along towards the rapids. Each rapid was like a person, it had its own name, was unique and required a specific way to approach it. The Earthquake rapid was named because it was formed during the 7.1 earthquake in 1968 when half the mountain side came down and blocked the Buller River. As we hit the Earthquake rapid – Marty shouts his calls louder as the sound of the water thunders around us – we all jump over to the left to balance the raft so as not to tip. The cool water splashes my face as I see the ‘hole’ to my right as the raft plunges head first into it. “GO GO FORWARD PADDLE, FORWARD

“GO, GO, FORWARD, PADDLE, FORWARD, PADDLE”, shouts Marty

PADDLE”, shouts Marty. You can feel the power of the river push and pull you as the raft rolls from left to right and back and forth. Before you know it we are back on the calm, flat water. What a rush! The time between rapids is just as enjoyable, relaxing as we float along in the hot sun. We look up and see a family of Chamois – a small mountain antelope - munching on the river bank. There is no sound except the occasional rush of a breeze through the Rimu, Rata and Beech trees that tower over us on the banks. It is so calm and peaceful as we chat to our two fellow rafters from Sweden about their travels. The quiet lap of the river on the side of the raft gives no indication of what lies in wait around the next bend. Marty however is standing up at the back of the raft, assessing the conditions of the next rapid ahead. We start to hear that now-familiar noise of thundering water

as we approach the Rodeo rapids. We work our way through each rapid quickly and efficiently, working together as one, paddling in sync with our big wooden paddles. Through the Rollercoaster rapid, Taniwha then skimming the edge of the whirlpool. We stop for a moment to take a drink from the thirst-quenching, clear water coming down from one of the many waterfalls and also to assess the next big one – Gunslinger! This is the biggest rapid of the day. We all look on in awe at its power. Marty and Bruce explain that we will need some power for this one, so we need to paddle hard and work together. As the powerful flow of the river takes us into the middle

of the rapid, the front of the raft rises up and for a split second I think we are going swimming as the raft threatens to tip. We continue to paddle and a few of us cry “whoo hoo” and “yeah” as we all feel a rush of adrenaline and excitement. We swirl through the rapid sideways, straighten up as we bob up and down and water leaps into the raft. It feels as though we are the river’s play thing as we paddle hard, out of the rapid to the nearby flatter water. We get the chance in the next section of the river to have a quick dunk. Although the river is calmer there are some mini rapids and we are quickly whisked down river. On our backs, feet first, is the safest way. Very nice after all that paddling and

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getting hot in our wetsuits! The last rapid of the day is the Lyell rapid, named after an old gold mining town that was located there from 1860 - 1963. In its heyday, Lyell had 2000 residents, yet is described as the most

inaccessible gold field in New Zealand due to the treacherous journey on the Buller River, made mostly by Maori assisted by people pulling their canoes by rope from the river bank until they finally reached their destination. A road was soon put in place and as the town grew there were many shops, hotels, a bank, a school, a shoemaker and a butcher. Then followed a quartz mine giving more stable work to those in the area however, after several large fires and the closure of a local mine, the population of the Lyell rapidly declined. Today the historic site, cemetery and track are popular for camping and recreation. We reach the optional jump rocks, one at the height of just a few metres and another at eight metres. Most of the group eagerly jump out of the raft onto the bank and walk

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up the rocks preparing themselves to jump into the very deep flat water of the Buller below. “Woo hoo” my husband yells loudly, as he jumps from eight metres into the river below. He clearly enjoyed this as he and the others go back up the rock to do it twice more! Once back in the raft we relax and let the smooth gentle flow of the Buller take us towards the ‘take out’. Bruce points out the rock they use as an indication that the river is in flood and too high to raft. Finally we pass under the Iron Bridge high above us which we are informed was imported out from Scotland and assembled here along with its sister bridge located just north of Westport! Once off the river we change and dry out in the warm sun and grab a well-earned piece of cake and a mug of locally roasted Kawatiri Coffee. Kawatiri is the Maori word for the Buller, meaning swift and deep, and after that adventure I couldn’t agree more! If you want to know more about the other rapids we went through, you’ll have to adorn life jacket to take up the challenge yourself – with names like Rodeo and Rollercoaster you know you will have a good ride! Rated Top Choice West Coast Activity in the Sept 2012 Lonely Planet Guide, Wild Rivers Rafting also recently passed a new, stringent safety audit by Maritime New Zealand, with their comment of “a very well-run small company”.

Buller has been a fantastic corner of New Zealand to explore with lots of variety of things to see and do, places to stay and eat, fewer crowds and only an hour or so between each of the four areas. Plus it’s an easy drive to the rest of the West Coast, Nelson and Christchurch and also has regular flights to and from Wellington. Check out www.buller.co.nz for more information.

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Marlborough

VINE TIMES by Allanah Robinson

Marlborough

The best long weekends make memories that last. Allanah Robinson talks about running the Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon as part of a long weekend in Marlborough.

t’s 8am on a Saturday morning in May. The sun is shining, the air is crisp and bright, I am surrounded by vineyards wreathed in golden autumn glory, and I’m very very nervous. This morning, it is not the justifiably famous wine and food which have brought me to Marlborough. Instead, in just a few minutes, I will join 2000 others in a run or walk through the stunning wine country scenery. Not just any run, it’s my first ever half marathon, tucked into a weekend break in one of my favourite regions of New Zealand. Now in its seventh year, the Saint Clair Vineyard Half is an iconic event on the Marlborough calendar. Around me there is a combination of serious runners and groups of friends chatting and laughing in the starting line up. The event is described as fun but not frivolous and it attracts participants who come back each year for the chance to run in the vineyards and

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savour the atmosphere and the weekend away. I’ve been talked into it by a friend who completed it last year. Her talk of celebration parties, wine tours and Sounds cruises lulled me into forgetting that before the fun begins I will need to travel 21km under my own steam, either running, walking, or a hybrid combination of both.

The event starts, and by the end of the first ten minutes I have discovered that running in the vines is far more fun than I could have anticipated. It’s a beautiful start to the course, the vineyards of Saint Clair Family Estate set the scene for the whole route. Dew-damp grass and sunlight filtered through the leafy golden vines is strangely uplifting and some of my fellow runners actually seem to be smiling. Smiling while they run. If happiness is contagious, the glorious view from the first stop bank just tops it up. Marlborough is New Zealand’s foremost winegrowing region, and from here the vines are spread like a patchwork carpet between the golden Wither Hills and the brooding Richmond Ranges. The grapes recently harvested from along the course go into wines produced by Cloudy Bay, Wither Hills, Allan Scott Family Estate, Wairau River Wines, Starborough, Morton Estate Ltd, Babich Wines, Stoneleigh, Drylands and Giesen Wines.

The course is unusual in that it is both flat and predominantly off-road, passing between vineyard rows and along headlands at the ends of the rows. Between the vineyards are short sections of sealed road and these are the only spectator points along the route. Their cheering is, well, cheering, and the contrast between the quiet vineyards and rowdy blocks of supporters is a welcome change. Elsewhere the quiet is broken only by song, and not only from the birds. Roving musicians surprise me sitting by the vines and cheering me on in music. The piper standing proud in full Scottish regalia is especially moving, the strains of his encouragement following us long after he is out of sight. Local producers ply us with sample platters of goodies as we run past. I say yes to an on-the-go taste of hand-made Makana chocolates (all this running has some benefits, surely), as well as a bite-size icy Sauvignon Blanc gelato from Wairau River Wines which was tartly refreshing. The final quarter of the 21km has more panoramic vineyard views, a stretch overlooking the sparkling Wairau River, and the sounds of the party happening at the finish line echoing through the last kilometre or two. The quiet of the course is broken as we return to the Saint Clair estate, and crowds of supporters cheer us over the finish line to join the celebration. Every finisher is rewarded with a bottle of Saint Clair Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and there are people sprawled everywhere, drinking wine, eating mussels, salmon, gourmet savouries, and listening to live music. The buzz is fantastic and when it’s time to go, we leave reluctantly, comforted by the thought that the party will continue at this evening’s Finishing Toast. For now, our hard work is complete, and it’s time to go and indulge in the best of Marlborough. Tomorrow, it’s the Marlborough Sounds, but today, the wineries await. Our pre-booked wine tour does pickups, and I’m just ready when they arrive.

FAST FACT:

Marlborough is situated at the top of New Zealand’s South Island. Famed for its wine, it is also home to the Marlborough Sounds, 1,500 kilometres of coastline in sunken valleys and bush-covered headlands. Direct flights to Blenheim from Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch with Air New Zealand.

When I booked the tour I was worried I would be too tired to appreciate it, but I worried in vain. I am feeling ridiculously energetic, invigorated even, the minicoach is comfortable, and the tour laidback. It’s a pretty fantastic way to spend the afternoon.

Our final day in Marlborough, and our recovering legs, demanded relaxation. We joined a boat cruise to explore the Marlborough Sounds – another part in the Marlborough triumvirate of water, wine, and wilderness.

There are nearly 150 wineries in the region, and a third of them have cellar doors for visitors to sample the wines. In our afternoon we visit four different wineries, trying over 20 different wines in total.

The Sounds are network of sunken valleys with hudreds of tiny bays and coves tucked into bush-clad headlands. It’s also home to some outstanding seafood, nature experiences and adventure options from hiking to mountain biking and kayaking.

More than half of the regional production is Sauvignon Blanc, the characteristic wine variety that put Marlborough on the international wine map, but there are other varieties too. Over the past two decades, Marlborough’s wine makers have been building an excellent reputation for aromatics and lighter style Pinot Noirs. I fall in love with some beautiful Rieslings and weigh down my luggage more than I intended.

I skipped all of these, and just relaxed with my feet up, watching the scenery pass by. An excellent low-key commentary pointed out interesting bits on the history and natural environment of the area. The bird and marine-life is fascinating, and while we didn’t see dolphins on this trip, our commentator assured us that they are regular visitors in the Sounds. I look around, and think that I’d quite like to be a more regular visitor to the Sounds myself.

It’s wonderful to think that some of the wine I try may have come from the very vines I ran through this morning.

Reflecting on my weekend, this will go down as one of the best. I know that every time I open a bottle of Marlborough wine, or snack on smoked salmon, I’ll be brought back to the beautiful environments which produce these products, and to a magical weekend where I not only relaxed in a lovely region, but I also completed an event I will remember forever.

Our final stop for the day is Makana Boutique Chocolates, where glass screens allow visitors to watch the chocolates being made. The Macadamia Butter Toffee Crunch is perhaps the most delicious confectionary I have ever tasted, and I’m not sure why they bother with an expiry date on the box – mine has been opened before I make it out of the car park. We hit the Finishing Toast party in a mood to celebrate. We eat delicious local food, including a feast of freshly harvested local mussels and Regal King Salmon, and sample some unexpectedly excellent local beers. There is music, and laughter, and conversation, but the party will go down in my memory for the most amazing feelgood factor shared by a roomful of limping people with smiles on their faces.

The Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon is not a running race, it’s a lifestyle experience.

DETAILS:

The Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon 2013 is on Saturday 11 May. Entries are limited. See www.vineyardhalf.com

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Nelson

GOLDEN BAY A LUSTRE ALL ITS OWN by Tony Orman

Nelson Tasman

It’s widely known that the best places to travel in the world are the favourite holiday spots of locals. Kept secret, locals hold these locations close to their hearts - loathe to spread the word lest their tranquil vacation be overrun by thousands of pasty white, camera-wielding tourists who’ll ruin their serenity forever.

isitors who discover these hidden wonders often find themselves hailed as explorers – keen of wit and adventure - and are rewarded to find beaches with space aplenty, pubs where local musicians take requests from punters and play late into the evening, and locals who are only too keen to spill the beans on the best nearby nature walk, craft brewery or swimming hole. 94

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I discovered that Golden Bay is one such place. Blessed with natural attractions that have entranced South Island New Zealanders for over a century, the bay is graced with spectacular weather, beaches and people and welcomes its arms to a cast of travelling characters from both near and far, who keep this hidden gem a closelyguarded secret. Venturing into a local café,

I try to pry secrets from my dreadlocked barista, but she seems tight-lipped, either due to the number of tourists ordering trim lattes or perhaps the piercing in her tongue. Golden Bay hasn’t always been the escapists’ haven it is now. At one time the place was awash with fortune seekers after gold was found near the Aorere Valley in 1856. As many as 2000 men arrived in

Stonefly lodge

Local boy and helicopter pilot Andrew Gillatt, from just over the Takaka hill at Motueka, confirms he did some of the flying for The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey...

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New Zealand’s second gold rush and dubbed the bay ‘Golden Bay’ – not for its prolific golden beaches, but for the elusive precious metal. I wonder vaguely to myself if I might uncover a secret seam of gold, and live a rich man for the rest of my life. But if history repeats, I’ll instead be left penniless like the gold-panners of yesteryear. Nowadays, Golden Bay is renowned as the place for local holiday makers to escape from a year behind the desk to picture-perfect postcard bliss. Located at the top left tip of the South Island, Golden Bay is naturally sheltered by the mountains of the Kahurangi National Park on the south, and Farewell Spit on the north. Its beaches range from the black sand of the West Coast to the golden and white of the Abel Tasman National Park to the fine grey granules of Farewell Spit. The Spit is just one of the unique natural features of the area that makes it so stunning. Established as a nature reserve back in 1938, the Spit teems with wildlife and is only accessible through tour company Farewell Spit Eco Tours, run by longstanding Golden Bay patriot Paddy Gillooly. Known in inner circles as the ‘ginger ninja’, Paddy and his team share an unbridled enthusiasm for this sandsanctuary where you would almost expect to see camels laboriously climbing the huge dunes. In place of camels however, I uncover washed up shipwrecks, seals basking in the sun and a prolific multitude 96

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of migratory birds including the famous Godwit which holds the record for the longest non-stop flight for a land bird. At 35 kilometres long, the sand spit is the longest in the world, and has been nominated as a Ramsar site. It seems almost fitting in this untouched landscape that at the very end of Farewell Spit sits the last manned lighthouse in New Zealand – moving only to automation in 1984. In fact Farewell Spit Eco Tours began over 60 years ago as the mail service for the lighthouse keepers and their families. One wonders how the ghosts of those families view the tourists who frolic on their spit, surfing down 25 metre sand dunes and collecting flotsam from the shores – although you expect they approve in a good-natured Golden Bay kind of way. The Golden Bay way extends to welcoming film crews into their midst – but there’s no

such thing as a non-disclosure agreement in this town. Famous for film locations from movies such as The Lovely Bones, The Lord of the Rings and most recently The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, locals’ whisper of Orlando Bloom and Evangeline Lilly sharing a craft brewed pint at The Mussel Inn, and of the dwarves causing mischief at eco-lodge The Resurgence. Nothing can be confirmed mind you, but that does look awfully like Sir Ian McKellen’s handprint on the wall of The Wholemeal Café. Local boy and helicopter pilot Andrew Gillatt, from just over the Takaka hill at Motueka, confirms he did some of the flying for The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, helping capture the dwarves on their journey across Middle-earth. His helicopter company Tasman Helicopters visits locations from both this most recent Tolkien wonder as well as the Lord of the Rings. Gillatt says that while he believes

the films have captured some of the most spectacular areas of New Zealand, Golden Bay would be his pick of the lot, for its diverse landscapes and easy accessibility. “It’s so easy to fly from the mountains to the beach, and to view both at the same time is an experience unique to New Zealand, but especially Golden Bay”. If Peter Jackson needs a location for any upcoming films he’d be hard pressed to beat the views at Westhaven Retreat, home of Bruno and Monika Stompe, who welcome weary heads to their luxury lodge perched high above Whanganui Inlet. It doesn’t take much to tempt me to stay the night once I catch a glimpse of the spectacular vistas and a plate of freshly baked pastries on my private deck. Boasting a floor area of some 2800 square metres, the lodge is the biggest building constructed in Golden Bay for 10 years and has been lovingly built by Bruno himself, his “retirement” job after a career spent setting up some of the world’s largest steel mills. The largesse of the lodge is reflected in a spectacular Austrian meal and I head to bed full and content, lulled to sleep by the cries of Great Spotted Kiwi that roam the next door Kahurangi National Park. The Kahurangi National Park, New Zealand’s second largest and comprising of over 4,520 square kilometres of native bush, is one of two National Parks in Golden Bay – the other being the Abel

Tasman National Park, famed for its golden beaches. The Kahurangi has an adventurous history and it’s most famous track bears it’s discoverer’s name – Heaphy. The Heaphy Track is one of New Zealand’s Nine Great Walks and is the only one open to both hikers and mountain bikers – a union that seems to keep everyone happy, as funds from the mountain bike club have meant new huts and better facilities for all. I took a ride with Jon Etherington from Escape Adventures and discovered the 82 kilometre track traverses mountains and bush valleys and emerges onto the spectacular Scotts beach on the West Coast. As if mountain biking wasn’t enough adventure I was informed by friendly locals that I simply couldn’t depart Golden Bay without a ride with Cape Farewell Horse Treks. It seemed fitting that my final day was spent riding horseback along Cape Farewell Beach watching the golden sunset. Gail McKnight, my salt of the earth horse trek guide summed it up perfectly “You don’t get much better than this mate, and I’ll shout you a beer when we get back”. As serendipity would have it she handed me a local brew from boutique pub The Mussel Inn titled the Golden Goose. I may not have found any of the gold that would make me rich, but I found something better in Golden Bay, what locals call the ‘Golden Way’.

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Wellington

NATIONAL TREASURES by Sarah Shuttleworth

Wellington

Waking up to roaring wind and rain is not normally a great start to an overseas holiday, but when it means an excuse to spend the day at Te Papa it’s hard to complain. Te Papa, Tongarewa is New Zealand’s national museum, located in central Wellington. A lovely walk along the harbour brought us directly to the museum, which overlooks this beautiful part of the capital city.

he building itself was an engineering feat; weighing 64,000 tonnes and sitting on 150 shock absorbers to protect it from the shaky capital’s earthquake movement. The interior’s six floors beautifully incorporate New Zealandgrown wood into the design, including matai wall panels, tawa handrails, and macrocarpa in the ceiling. On arrival we were greeted with a true Kiwi “Kia ora” and instantly impressed by the spacious entrance and friendly staff. The first set of stairs bring you directly to the information desk, where maps and visitor guides are offered in many different

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languages. There’s also the option of an audio guide, or even a guided tour for the most in-depth information. ‘Te Papa Tongarewa’ literally means ‘container of treasures’, very fitting for a place that holds so many historical, natural, and cultural gems. We spent the morning exploring the first three floors of the museum, the first two of which investigate New Zealand’s natural environment and wildlife. Te Papa’s colossal squid specimen was certainly the most impressive exhibit here. It is the heaviest ever caught and only complete colossal squid on display in the world.

The fourth floor was a great place for us overseas visitors to get a true feeling for New Zealand’s people’s history. The journey on this floor celebrates the country’s diverse population and takes you from the first Maori settlers through to the now multicultural 21st century. Rongomaraeroa is Te Papa’s magnificent and colourful contemporary marae, created by leading Maori carvers and a must-see at the museum. After a hot cup of coffee and a bite to eat at one of the museums cafe’s, we went on to

level five, home of New Zealand’s national art collection. This floor contains over 300 impressive artworks from the past and the present, with regularly changing exhibits to give locals yet another reason return again and again. As the afternoon drew to a close we finished our day by visiting the museum’s current short term exhibition Game Masters, which runs until the 28th of April. This is one of the few parts of the museum that had an admission charge, but it was definitely worth seeing. This exhibition showcases

gaming’s 40-year history, from the arcade classics (you can never beat Space Invaders) and to the annoying, addictive Angry Birds. It’s fully interactive and was a lot of fun for the kids and parents alike. If you’re lucky enough to have more than a few days in Wellington, I would recommend splitting your Te Papa visit into two days. With a little more time you are able to truly enjoy your surroundings and take in all the museum has to offer.

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Experience the treasures and stories of New Zealand – our land, people, culture, art and history – at Te Papa, our extraordinary and interactive national museum. Open every day 10am–6pm, and until 9pm Thursdays. FREE ENTRY Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa 55 Cable Street, Wellington Phone: 04 381 7000

| mail@tepapa.govt.nz | www.tepapa.govt.nz www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

Rotorua

A revisited series

WHERE THE SPIRIT OF THE EARTH SPEAKS by Gary Cody

Rotorua

If New Zealand’s soul could be unearthed anywhere, it would be in Rotorua. Situated in the heart of New Zealand’s unique geothermal utopia, Rotorua envelopes the senses like a balmy blanket. It had been seven years since my last visit and I wanted to see what was on offer.

t’s warm, comfortably warm. The scent of sulphur and verdant native forest combine creating a distinctly fecund aroma that is all at once charming and energising, which is great as I have a full itinerary! As well as being one of New Zealand’s most amazing

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natural wonders, Rotorua is also one of its most adventurous and I’m rearing to delve into everything Rotorua has to offer. My arrival at one of Rotorua’s premier contemporary hotels, the Regent of Rotorua Boutique Hotel and Spa, finds

me totally impressed. The modern and glamorous décor is complemented by quirky objet d’art pieces as well as classic and timeless furnishings that define luxe. It’s a place you are loath to rush out of. Indeed I feel as though I could simply lounge about at the Regent all week! But

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hey, duty calls and there’s mountains to bike, forests to circumnavigate and a whole ‘raft’ of adventures to be had.

lovely sound of Te Pu-oro Ma-ori, traditional Maori singing swirls through the forest like ghosts. Magic – truly magic.

Leaving behind the glamour and bliss of my sanctuary at the Regent that evening I head to a sanctuary of another kind. The bus trip from downtown Rotorua to Tamaki Village, New Zealand’s most awarded cultural tourist attraction and the most authentically traditional representation of a Maori village in the country would have been worth it on its own. Our driver regaled us with tales of Maori traditions, the culture and why we were the best travel group he’d ever had – today. His singing, jokes and pertinent cultural advice and protocols were so much fun I was almost sad to get off the bus!

The next morning after a spiritually emotional cultural roller-coaster like Tamaki Village I feel it’s time for fun of more base nature. A bit of a get-backto-reality fun. Nothing like an adrenalinesteeped raft ride to shake up a sentimental mood. The folk at Rotorua Rafting know how to give you a taste of sheer terror coupled with complete trust and riproaring, gut-clenching thrills. Fantastic, brilliant and the most condensed amount of fun I’ve had in a while. When we hit Tutea Falls, a seven-meter drop and the highest commercially raftable waterfall in the world, I think my heart just about stopped. This was life at its fullest. This was adrenaline plus! The Kaituna River weaves its way through native forest, emerald light from sun-dappled giant ferns turns the river a striking shade of jade much like the precious stone at the heart of Maori culture. Sam Sutton, Extreme Kayaking World Campion and pioneer

Am I glad I did! Tamaki Village took any preconceptions of a Maori village I might have had and blew them into the spiritual ether. Touching, heart stopping, warm, fascinating and utterly inspiring, after an entertaining bus ride,we were met by a full and rather intimidatingly exciting Powhiri and Haka challenge. Once the peace offering is accepted and you have become one of the Tangata Whenua, one of the people, you are free to wander, explore and be amazed at this world within an already astounding world. It is as if time has frozen, Captain Cook never made it to these shores and you are an alien arrived in pre-European New Zealand. Carvers, weavers and healers work in and outside of their authentic Whare’s (houses) amid the forest, sharing their knowledge and their culture with all while the haunting

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of Rotorua Rafting, wanted to bring fun back to rafting, making it an extreme, safe adventure for all to share. His dream has been realised. Rotorua Rafting nurtures a love of life and the energy on every trip is euphoric. Literally on overload from emotion and adrenaline I felt now would be a great time to be indulged in some total relaxation. Rotorua’s Polynesian Spa was exactly what I needed after such an action-fuelled, spiritually awakening day. Soaking in a lakeside mineral pool with views that could only inspire exultant relief, the adrenaline of the day seeped into the spring-fed waters. Two types of mineral waters feed into the Polynesian’s Spa’s pools, the effects on the body both invigorating and relaxing. Once suitably jelly-like I sank further into indulgence with a massage. An exemplary day could not have had a better ending as the acidity and minerals of the Priest Spring softened and caressed every tired, hypedup muscle and the perfectly executed massage tended to any recalcitrant aches left behind. An early night back at the glorious Regent topped an absolutely remarkable day and this trip to Rotorua was far from over. An early morning swing through the trees, mountain biking through Rotorua’s primordial forests and volcanic slopes and the Agrodome were just three of the tantalising adventures on my list of

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Rotorua ‘Must Do’s’. Untouched native forest, rare and precious birdlife and a stunning perspective on an ecologically diverse and magical part of the country awaited me at Rotorua Canopy Tours. Three hours of zipping and sliding twenty-two meters above the forest floor just fifteen minutes hilariously

companionable bus trip from town, it was an absolute highlight! The Canopy Tours are a young attraction, opened in August 2012 but this ecotour was a guaranteed thrill. Wonder and beauty and an honest to goodness fantastic time with enough adrenaline from the heights, helpful, fun, friendly

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guides who were there to help and train with the equipment but also who knew so much about the incredible treescape we traversed – the whole experience was simply brilliant. If I had more time I longed to tick off a huge range of Multi-Day Adventures offerings. As it was I had to content myself with a mountain biking trail through W h a k a r e w a r e w a / R e d w o o d Fo r e s t . Straight off the zip-lines and ropes I now had a completely different aspect of the stunning forest around Rotorua. Racing past boughs and ferns, heart racing along with you, picturesque with the surreality of movement, flashes of verdant green and the potent scent of visceral foliage, Multi-Day Adventures know how to design a bespoke adventure tour suited to any appetite and can arrange everything from accommodation to cuisine to mountain biking, hiking, rafting, kayaking – you name it! My next escapade took me to a quintessentially Kiwi experience – The Agrodome. World-famous, the Agrodome Farm Show covers everything from the trotting out of nineteen breeds

of sheep, shearing said sheep, dogs that might not be able to drive a car but can herd a flock of woolly bleaters through a labyrinth backwards and you can even try your hand at milking a cow. Which I did not. Although it did actually look fun. The most hands-on, down-on-the-farm, truly country New Zealand experience, the Agrodome has been delighting visitors from around the globe for many years and their experience shows. The education programmes are brilliant for children and adults alike and there is even a Farmyard Nursery brimming with the cutest furry and fluffy babies you could ever hope to close to. What visit to Agrodome would be complete without a pair of sheepskin slippers? The Wollen Mill and the Dog and Whistle Shop are well stocked with the finest wool products and gifts to take away with you. At the mill, after watching the demonstration of processing and spinning I had to have something woollen and I had just the place to trot them out for their inaugural wearing! Wai Ora Lakeside Spa Resort on the shore of Lake Rotorua is a stunner of a luxury hotel offering extravagant

accommodation, the finest of indigenousinspired dining at Mokoia Restaurant and 2011 and 2012’s award winning lakeside spa with treatments such as a traditional Maori Massage, the Wai Ora White Volcanic Stone Massage and the Wai Ora Mud Wrap. Sign me up for the mud wrap! Literally caked in Rotorua’s invigorating and globally renowned mineral mud I felt toxins and excess being drawn from my body. The Alite Mud Beuaty Products used at Wai Ora Spa is infused with the unique geothermal muds and water from Rotorua’s most active geothermal reserve, Hells Gate. Maunka oil, honey and New Zealand milk are combined with the mud to gently soften and invigorate the skin. Detoxifying, purifying, absorbing all the evils of the world from your skin, I was left feeling reborn. And hungry. Desperately, deeply starving. I needed food, good food, healthy food. The kind of food that your body thanks you for. In Rotorua there is no better place to find exactly what the doctor ordered at Mokoia Restaurant at Wai Ora Lakeside Spa Resort. A procession of awards grace Mokoia’s wall and they are duly deserved. I opt for a truly unique dining experience

and ‘share dine’ with other guests. Renowned chef Ervin Garde has created a cornucopia of Pacific-Rim fusion dishes utilising traditional indigenous herbs and spices and my taste buds were dancing with gastronomic ecstasy. Delicious and vivacious the food at Mokoia harmonised the ambience to perfection.

Luxury Day Spa

For my final day in Rotorua I planned a day of wildlife and nature appreciation and education. A natural wonder itself Rotorua houses an abundance of native birds and wildlife and none are so gallant, dramatic and wildly beautiful as the native New Zealand Falcon. Wingspan Birds of Prey is New Zealand’s National Bird of Prey Centre. Their mission – to resurrect the influence and reality of New Zealand birds of prey into our daily lives, securing their future through education and conservation. Here at the centre in Paradise Valley Rotorua you will get a close encounter of the most miraculous kind. Falcons, princes of the sky, dancers with the sun, inspire rapture as I watch them perform startling aerial feats. At the core of Wingspan is its commitment to the Karearea, New

Open daily 8am – 11pm 1000 Hinemoa Street, Rotorua www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com 105 www.polynesianspa.co.nz

World famous Farm Show & Eco Farm Tour Animal Feeding Sheepdog Trial Farmhouse Cafe Shearing Museum Woollen Mill Orchard Tours Combo Deals Conferences & Team Building Themed events & farm-style games Bowen Farmhouse & Catering

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Zealand’s own endangered falcon. The Karearea is honestly the most beautiful bird I’ve ever seen and to experience this wild creature in its environment up close – spectacular! Breathtaking and extraordinary, these birds make you fall in love with them. Their grace and spirit is palpable, reaching into your soul and filling you with wonder. I was blown away by the majesty and elegance of these most gorgeous birds. Upon leaving I was near tears of awe, hoping with all my heart that Wingspan achieves its goal and brings these remarkable birds back into our everyday lives.

Tamaki Maori Village

Another darling of New Zealand, the native and endangered flightless Kiwi, the bird we are all named for, is thriving in Rotorua. Rainbow Springs, situated somewhat fittingly on Fairy Springs Road, is a haven of wildlife from the Kiwi to Kea to the New Zealand’s own prehistoric dragon, the Tuatara. An amazing place, Rainbow Springs is devoted to the conservation of New Zealand’s native species, in particular the Kiwi and is one of the most successful breeding programmes in the country. A great experience all round, perfect for kids and grown-ups, my favourite part was

the night visit where calls of the Kiwi and other native birds filled the night with eerily magic music. An honest-to-goodness mecca of wildlife and adventure, spirit and tranquillity, Rotorua is a destination that opens your mind, expands your horizons and treats you to some of the most fundamentally enriching experiences you will ever have. I loved every minute of my stay in Rotorua, right down to the sulphurific aroma, and can truthfully promise – I’ll be back.

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Taupo

THE GREAT LAKE by Veronica Gadd

Taupo

Hurl yourself out of a plane, swim in Australasia’s largest lake or hike through the ‘Land of Mordor’. It can only be Great Lake Taupo.

now-capped mountains backing crystal clear blue-green waters. This scenery is literally picturepostcard perfect and happens to be one of my favourite holiday destinations in New Zealand. Our cousins across the ditch certainly have some great gems. Lake Taupo, smack in the centre of the North Island, New Zealand, is the largest lake in Australasia, sitting in a caldera created by a supervolcanic eruption which occurred approximately 26,500 years ago.

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Another eruption at AD 180 is considered to be one of the largest volcanic eruptions of the last 5,000 years, said to have been seen as far as China and Rome. It is safe to say that Lake Taupo has stabilised and is not likely to erupt anytime soon. I always love a stroll along the lake front as the views are simply breathtaking. Sit by the beach, feed the ducks and swans, take in the sound of the waves as it laps gently against the shore. You might be forgiven to think that you are by the sea. The lake

is that big. Best of all, there’s no salt water to mess up your hair so jump in if it’s not too cold. At least dip your toes in the water. There’s also the Hole-in-One Golf at the lake front where you can practise your swing. Besides being rated one of the top 100 things to do in New Zealand, it has fabulous prizes up for grabs including $10,000 if you get the red flag hole-in-one. The picturesque lake is framed by shimmering views of Tongariro National

If you want to explore the Land of Mordor, do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, voted as one of New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best one-day walks and one of the best walks in the world by the Lonely Planet .

Take in the majestic Huka Falls, New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most visited natural attraction.

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Park’s snowy peaks. See if you can identify the ominous Mt Doom (real name Mt Ngauruhoe) from the Lord of the Rings fame. Gollum and his precious ring come to mind every time I look at those mountains. During the ski season, give skiing or snowboarding a go on Mt Ruapehu, where New Zealand’s largest ski fields are at. If you want to explore the Land of Mordor, I recommend doing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, voted as one of New Zealand’s best one-day walks and one of the best walks in the world by the Lonely Planet. It’s certainly on every hiker’s must do list in New Zealand and autumn is one of the best seasons to do it in. A bit of a warning, only attempt the walk if you are relatively fit as the eight-hour hike in changing alpine weather can be quite challenging. I’ve done the hike twice, once in summer and recently in the winter, and it is exhilarating each time traversing spectacular volcanic geography over such diverse alpine terrain. I will gladly do it again. It is that rewarding. Book yourself on one of the many shuttle services to the Crossing and they can sort all your gear for you such as hiking boots,

jackets and ice picks and crampons during winter. You generally don’t need a guide in the summer but if there’s snow and ice up on the mountains, a guide is compulsory which is included in the shuttle package. Adrenaline junkies and the young at heart will love this region for the abundance of adventurous activities on offer. With more than 30,000 jumps a year, Taupo is THE skydiving capital of the world. It is New Zealand’s largest commercialised skydive drop zone and it’s supposed to be the cheapest place in New Zealand to do it too. One of the best experiences of my life! A definite must-do. If hurling yourself out of a plane isn’t enough, why not hurl yourself off a cliff with a Kiwi invention? The picturesque Taupo Bungy is New Zealand’s highest water-touch bungy and considered to be one of New Zealand’s most scenic bungy sites. It features the world’s first cantilever platform which projects out from the clifftop 47 metres above the clear waters of the Waikato River below. If you don’t like the idea of hanging upside down but want to join in the extremities, opt for the Taupo Cliff Hangar with swing speeds of up to 70 kph. The thrills just never end. Experience an exhilarating ride on a jet boat, another Kiwi invention capable of shooting you across the waters at 80kph. The Great Lake Taupo region has three jet boat operators, each offering totally different experiences. Take in the majestic Huka Falls, New Zealand’s most visited natural attraction, on Hukafalls Jet; ride some spectacular white water and see the impressive

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Aratiatia Rapids on Rapids Jet; or throw in a thermal experience with New Zealand Riverjet which takes you to the geothermal Hidden Valley of Orakei Korako. The Great Lake Taupo region is never short of activities and unique must-dos to keep the bold as well as the faint hearted occupied. Another thing, see if you can spot a decommissioned DC3 aircraft in town brightly painted in the Golden Arches’ colours. A photo of one of the ‘world’s unique McDonald’s’ should be a keeper.

Visit www.GreatLakeTaupo.com to plan your holiday in the Great Lake Taupo region. The Great Lake Taupo region is roughly an hour’s drive from Rotorua Airport or 3 1/2 hours drive south from Auckland.

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The Coromandel

PILGRIMAGE TO SLEEPING GOD CANYON They say that time slows down once you hit The Coromandel, a phenomenon locally referred to as ‘Coromandel time’. After five days we can certainly vouch for the laid back vibe that the place is renowned for, however we’d come seeking a little action too.

Coromandel

y partner and I flew from Christchurch to Auckland and made a quick detour to the midlands of Waikato before heading to the North Island’s outdoor playground. Hobbiton was something we had planned to see given it was only two hours away. The place was amazing, with most of the film set left intact. The only thing missing were the Hobbits, perhaps it’s time they started employing short people to make it even more authentic. Even if you’re not into The Lord of the Rings it’s still an incredible place to visit. Seeing what was rolling farmland turned into a working village complete with The Green Dragon Inn where they serve their own traditional ales and food sourced from Hobbiton’s own gardens. However, the purpose of our journey

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brought us to the provincial capital of Thames. Arriving late in the day we checked into Sunkist Backpackers where we were told about the freshest fish and chips in town, situated right on the wharf. We picked up our takeaways and headed up the coast to enjoy dinner while watching the sunset over the Firth of Thames. A few of the locals popped by to see if they could scrounge a feed but they soon flew off when we waved them away. The Firth is known for its bird watching and they certainly made for good props as silhouettes against a reddening horizon. First thing the next day, we headed to the Thames Information Centre to meet our guides to the Sleeping God Canyon. We came across Sleeping God Canyon images on The Coromandel Facebook page. A bunch of enthusiastic reviews on

Trip Advisor complemented the fantastic images and we decided that we join the masses - The Coromandel had to be our next destination. To say it was a little nerve-wracking is an understatement; fortunately our guides were extremely professional and encouraging. It seems they also had a knack for taking my mind off the steep vertical descents with the odd bad joke and quiet words of encouragement. My confidence certainly grew after every challenge and by the end of the trip I felt like I had just conquered Mt Everest. The adrenalin-fueled day involved a descent of over 300 metres. The biggest abseil was over 80 metres and a series of nerve-racking jumps, slides and zip lines kept me on my toes from start to finish.

Fortunately we also got some down time to take in the views of the epic Coromandel Ranges. Sleeping God Canyon is not widely known, Canyonz Tours have quite possibly discovered New Zealand’s next major attraction to rival the likes of Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. Our guides Russ and Wayne says it took some time to make the Sleeping God accessible, the next step is letting people know about it. I can’t see how they’ll have any trouble there, the pure adrenaline is keenly matched by the dramatic scenery which will see travelers bragging about their experience for some time. The next day we headed up the coast towards Coromandel Town, stopping about 20 minutes out of Thames at the brightly painted Waiomu Café. Delicious homegrown mussel sausages and good coffee (with chocolate fish!) all served overlooking the picturesque Pohutukawa Park bordering Waiomu Bay. With our stomachs full, we continued on our way up one of the most spectacular coastal drives this country has to offer. All along the coast Pohutukawa trees (native New Zealand Christmas tree) line the roadside, which hugs tightly to the Firth of Thames. Coromandel Town comes complete with awesome cafés, bars, seafood delis and art galleries. We spend the rest of the afternoon cruising the main street taking photos and checking out the creative wares that seemed largely inspired by the natural surroundings of the region. Not too long ago, this town and the surrounding area was famous for its hippy culture and some of this vibe is still evident today in the organic produce, art scene and the laid back feel to the place. That evening we backtracked south to the Mussel Kitchen for more fresh seafood harvested that day. The mussel chowder was matched with a refreshing Pinot Gris, perfect for a warm summers evening. If you’re keen on homegrown produce and seafood then the Coromandel is definitely worth a visit. With only a two-hour ferry ride or drive separating this spot from the metropolis of Auckland, it is a lot more accessible than it feels. That night we checked into Te Kouma Harbour Cottages south of Coromandel Town. Another great sunset across the Firth accompanied by a chorus of bird song tweeting their last praises of the day. Tomorrow we fish. We’ve been consuming our fair share of seafood, so it’s only fair that we go to the source to investigate where this plentiful supply is coming from. Again, we join the birds, this time soon after sunrise as they bring in the day with another melody. As we pull up to Te Kouma Harbour we are greeted with glassy conditions and some hardy old mussel barges ready to take us snapper fishing. We’re joined by a fair swag of people, as this is another popular activity that doesn’t cost the earth. Mussel

Barge Snapper Safaris are taking us out to the mussel farms in search of the plentiful snapper. As we make our way out to the mussel farms a flotilla of boats explain the glistening reflections we saw on the approach. Surely this is a good sign for lots of fishing action. No sooner have we dropped our line than the bites start and the hoots erupt as stoked fisherman start reeling in catch after catch. I’d say there were around 30 people on board and it appeared everyone caught something. All good things must come to an end and a few hours into the trip the fish have wisened to our game. Still, we got a good haul and with a few keepers we head back to land to journey further up the peninsula. The minute we head north of Coromandel Town it seems we have gone back a few decades into real ‘grassroots’ country where weathered mailboxes lean from battling the elements and stock graze the roadside here and there. This is real New Zealand where farmers wave with a short raise of the arm and locals give a friendly toot when we pull over to let traffic get ahead of us. About 30 minutes away is our final destination, Tangiaro Kiwi Retreat in Port Charles. After days of beautiful weather it starts to pack it in. Dark clouds roll off the ranges and the rain buckets down, sending the window wipers in our trusty rusty into overdrive. Thankfully the worst of it is over by the time we make it to Tangiaro and it now settles into a constant drizzle. It’s as if this was written into the itinerary as we can think of nothing better than soaking in the hot spa surrounded by native bush. What a way to end the trip, surrounded by lush native bush, drinking down a cool beer in a hot spa while the rain dances on the surface. Now we enjoy the satisfaction of knowing we conquered Sleeping God Canyon, ticked off Hobbiton, got fed up on fresh seafood and more importantly rejuvenated the soul…

Tnz Top Pix

Peaceful Eco Friendly Panoramic Coastal Haven

0064 7 8662445 www.kaeppelis.co.nz

Tnz Top Pix

Coromandel Coastal Walkway Tour Departs Coromandel town - Full day tour with 10km (3-4 hour) walk.

07 8668175

info@coromandeldiscovery.co.nz www.coromandeldiscovery.co.nz

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Auckland

BAR HOPPING AND DESIGNER SHOPPING IN AUCKLAND’S HIPPEST DISTRICT by Julie Murphy

As a born-and-bred Melburnian, there are three things I take very seriously: Restaurants, bars and shopping. So it was with some surprise that I discovered that Auckland is more than holding its own in those departments these days.

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he hubby and I were last here in 2011 during the Rugby World Cup and, although the results on the field weren’t quite what we hoped for, there was a silver lining to our trip. With bruised egos, we sought comfort in good food and wine – and that’s when we discovered Britomart. The Britomart precinct is a collection of eclectic eateries, bars and boutiques – just what a Melburnian needs when away from home. What may look like a happy accident is in fact years of planning and hard work by a group of people with a vision: To give a run-down pocket of Auckland’s downtown the ultimate makeover. The result is something truly special. Many of the buildings in Britomart are historical buildings that have been painstakingly restored – and judging by the number of people flowing through, it seems Aucklanders have welcomed these old favourites back. There are also sleek new buildings within Britomart – including the high, glass-ceilinged Atrium on Takutai, lined with international stores, and the recently opened Pavilions. Rather than clashing, the contrasting styles of the architecture – and the stores, restaurants and bars themselves – complement each other to create an area that is exciting and surprising. Now back in Auckland to visit family, hubby and I are heading back to Britomart to see a few favourites and to try a few we missed last time. It’s a sunny Saturday and we decide to start with the morning farmers’ market. It may seem an odd place for a farmers’ market, but there are plenty of people there choosing fresh local fruit and veg, artisan breads, potted herbs, homemade preserves and other assorted goodies. Others lounge on bright red beanbags on grassy Takutai Square,

some munching on their market treats, others simply reading and enjoying the sun. Food stalls offer everything from baby pancakes to octopus dumplings. If we weren’t booked in for lunch we would be tempted, but instead we just grab a coffee and wander around. We are meeting my brother and sister-inlaw, who now live on Kiwi soil, but before lunch we’ve got time for a much anticipated spot of shopping. Britomart has become the premium shopping destination in Auckland, where small boutiques rub shoulders with top international labels. It’s also home to the flagship stores of New Zealand’s most successful designers, including Trelise Cooper, Karen Walker, WORLD, Kate Sylvester and Zambesi. As well as designer threads, there are plenty of specialty stores and health and beauty brands. Wandering through The Pavilions is a delight – only recently opened, the look and feel is elegant but relaxed, airy but intimate. Trelise Cooper, whose clothes have been worn by a long list of celebs, Karen Walker, Bobbi Brown and designer shoe boutique Lineage are among the fabulous line up. I treat myself to an exquisite dress from Trelise Cooper that I know will create admiration and jealousy amongst my friends at home. Back in the Atrium on Takutai, hubby combs the racks at Ted Baker while I stock up on limited edition make-up at M.A.C. Cosmetics, before the divine scents from the nearby Jo Malone store draw me in. Kikki K’s exquisite designer stationery and L’Occitane are among the other shops lining the ground floor of the atrium. Credit card safely back in purse, we head to lunch at Cafe Hanoi, which has lost none of its charm since our last visit. The

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interior is light and inviting, the simple white lanterns a subtle but well-chosen feature. Inspired by the food stalls and small eateries in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the menu offers traditional North Vietnamese cuisine with a modern twist. We’re told the plates are designed for shared dining to create an authentic experience of the way food is enjoyed in Vietnam – though my brother finds it hard to share the delectable tiger prawn cutlets. We are supremely impressed with our other choices; cured pork skewers, a poached chicken and papaya salad, and wok-seared market fish marinated in turmeric, ginger and galangal. Not a scrap is left on any of the plates. Because of the intricate flavour combinations in the food, Cafe Hanoi has also taken great care with their wine list, and we sip on a delightful Kumeu River Pinot Gris – perfect for a hot day. After a day of exploring more of Auckland, hubby and I return to Britomart later that night. As we wander the small lanes, the hum of voices, music and clinking glasses comes from every direction. Our first stop for a pre-dinner drink is Britomart Country Club. It boasts the largest courtyard bar in New Zealand, canopied and ringed with steel shipping containers to create a pleasantly closed in environment – it may sound peculiar, but it works. There’s even grass (yes, real grass), a putting green and a petanque court, and the staff are dressed in vintage sports outfits that they somehow manage to look cool in. The country club vibe is alive and well here, but with far less pretension than the real thing. Along with the usual list of drinks, Britomart Country Club offers jugs of delicious concoctions to share. After much deliberation we opt for the Feijoa and Mint Falling Water – feijoa vodka, chi, cucumber, lychee and mint. Another choice well made. After Britomart Country Club, XuXu (pronounced “Su-su”), is an entirely different world. The sister bar to Cafe Hanoi,

the pavilions it is cosy, inviting and utterly gorgeous – the Eastern inspired decor alone is enough to draw me in. We manage to nab a seat in the tiny streetside terrace, where we sip on designer cocktails. I decide if I ever open a bar in Melbourne, I would shamelessly plagiarise every detail of XuXu. Though I could have happily spent another few hours tucked away here, our stomachs tell us it’s time for dinner. It’s a real treat to be going to Mexico – the restaurant, that is – as it wasn’t in existence in 2011. We’ve been told it’s already become hugely popular, and it’s no surprise. A riot of colour, the place is loud and lively, just like its namesake country. I love it before we’ve even sat down. The menu has much of what you’d expect – soft shell tacos, quesadillas, snacks and salads, plus a specials menu that changes weekly. We start with the house made salsa roja and corn chips – after all it would be strange to come here and not have salsa. For mains, I opt for the Pibil rubbed pork soft taco with black beans, red cabbage, guajillo and sesame, while hubby orders the pan fried Kingfish with vera cruz sauce and crisp wild rice. The flavours are divine

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and every dish we see served up at other tables looks – and smells – equally good. There’s a comprehensive list of tequilas that some are partaking of at the bar, but we share a jug of superb sangria instead. Equally important as the menu, drinks list and decor is that elusive, intangible element that every restaurant strives for - atmosphere. Mexico has it in spades. From the bold art covering the bright red walls to waitresses dressed as colourfully as their surroundings, the energy of the place is palpable. After a big day, we regretfully agree it’s time to grab a taxi home. There are so many more places to explore in Britomart it would be impossible to fit them all in. Around the corner is Roukai Lane, where some of the first Britomart bars opened; with its narrow cobblestones giving an almost European feel. Towards the waterfront are more great bars, from the industrial cool of Tyler Street Garage to the laid back Northern Steamship Co, a big, open pub with a crazy collection of lampshades hanging upside down from the ceiling. Oh well – looks like we’ll just have to check them out next time.

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Harbourside Haven by Gary Cody

Positioned in the thrumming heart of Auckland City’s Viaduct Basin, The Sofitel is fast becoming one of Auckland’s premium accommodation options. Set in and around a clear water pond, the classically modern building consists of swanky house bar Sabrage, two exquisite eateries - Lava Dining and 21 Viaduct Harbour Cafe - and a soon-to-be-opened luxury spa offering exotic therapies.

nternationally branded as So Spa, the Sofitel Auckland is committed to creating a relaxation and rejuvenation menu of globally inspired rituals. Really what more could one require when holidaying or doing business in the Queen City? It was obvious from arrival that the

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international touch of Sofitel had already permeated through this five star property. “Bonjour”, the standard international Sofitel greeting, assailed me as soon as I stepped over the threshold. Not only is a little French used in greetings and niceties by the staff but the whole property has a French feel from the Concierge to the bar staff, a nice touch considering the location

feels like being in St Tropez. Overlooking a marina packed port to starboard with super-yachts my room faced North East and beyond the masts and booms I could see the Viaduct’s humming bar scene. For the professional or couple visiting Auckland, the Sofitel has the hottest location, ideal for access

to the CBD and the incredibly diverse and amazing choices of eateries, entertaining bars and restaurants. Lo and behold location, location, location! Travelling the globe and staying in many of the world’s top accommodation has at times rendered me somewhat skeptical to these wonderful properties. I still regard these opportunities as a great privilege and remind myself constantly of the blessing I am afforded. Sofitel Auckland really drove this home to me in no uncertain terms. And it all started in Sabrage, the sterling champagne bar located on the ground floor. Having witnessed the art developed by Napoleon on a few occasions I had always managed to escape from partaking. There was no escape this time. Hanna, my very friendly and informative host insisted that I remove the top of the bottle of Pierre

Jouet with the customary sabre. Bless her heart, she informed me if I did not do it there was no way the bottle was going to be opened. I had no choice. An in-depth instruction session from the bar attendant had me well primed for the job and without any further ado I swept the French sabre toward the glass rim below the cork. The sound of breaking glass and the familiar Champagne pop let all know the job was complete. I have to say, I was chuffed. I almost expected a round of applause! The glass breaks so cleanly that there are no shards or splinters. And the bubbly was superb. This wonderful performance is popular with those celebrating engagements and anniversaries and adds a great touch to any special celebration. I was even awarded a certificate, proudly hanging on my office wall. From Sabrage it was on to Lava Dining, a discerning take on traditional Kiwi fare. Chef Scott Brown imbibing an element of surprising scrumptiousness into every dish. Of course

my meal was exquisite perfection. There is something about dining with a view of a dazzling and bustling harbour that is both dramatic and appetite-inspiring. Sofitel’s dining experiences are unique and fabulous and they have melded the cuisine, the ambience and the ravishingly innovative vibe of Auckland’s revamped Wynyard Quarter to culinary brilliance. If it’s a coffee and a good hearty lunch you’re after 21 Viaduct Cafe is the one. I went there for lunch the following day and was treated with a table outdoors where I could watch the comings and goings of super yachts, ferries and visitors - simply the best place to people and water-activity watch in Auckland. The food is sumptuously simple from French Patisseries to yummy salads and the service has that Sofitel finesse. The Sofitel Auckland is absolute class all the way from reception to room service. With its classic international elegance and world class service and style the Sofitel is a beacon of sophistication in the heart of Auckland’s thriving and exciting Viaduct Harbour district.

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hotel debrett by Gary Cody

Beyond sophistication and eons ahead of the retro chic wannabes, downtown Auckland’s High Street Hotel DeBrett epitomises inner city verve.

Photo’s: Alistair Guthrie (interior shots), Keiran Scott (food and cornerbar shots)

rom the vintage valve radio in my room to the Judith Darragh chandelier in the House Bar, partially made using salvaged glass lightshades from the original hotel, the Hotel DeBrett is an eclectic, eccentric tribute to Art Deco, retro and everything vividly cool. Burned down in 1925, the Hotel DeBrett is arguably Auckland’s oldest hotel, being built as The Commercial Hotel in 1841. I arrive on Auckland’s most fashionable High Street early Friday evening and tailored professionals mix with sandalclad tourists over New Zealand’s boutique beers, spirits and wines at the Cornerbar. One of the trendiest corners in New Zealand’s largest city, the Hotel DeBrett is my dream location for an inner city

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experience. Fashion boutiques and my ultimate favourite bookstore in the world, Unity Books, line High Street, but shopping will wait for tomorrow. The sexiest reception, complete with vintage elevator and sweeping carved timber staircase, invites me to camp down right here. It’s more stylish and vividly comfortable than many hotel rooms I’ve stayed in but I am presented with the key to my room and the antique elevator looks like an experience in itself. There is total commitment

Hollywood in the 1950s couldn’t have imagined a better futuristic bathroom.

to the finest details. The carpet leads the way to my room in brilliant contemporary stripes - mustard, duck egg blue, rust and aubergine. The Loft Suite, the creme de la creme of Hotel DeBrett’s rooms, is a two level homage to deco-vogue. My juliette balcony overlooks the rustic courtyard and I just know it’s going to be impossible to get me out of that bed! Hollywood in the 1950s couldn’t have imagined a better futuristic bathroom. Floor to ceiling industrial steel mesh, uber-deep bathtub and scrumptious Eithne Curran natural products make the bathroom a veritable statement piece. Given a tome to extoll the quality and sheer gorgeousness of this iconic hotel I would run out of pages. The House Bar and Kitchen Restaurant have pushed my former favourites off the top of my very exclusive ‘Wow Factor’ list. Designed in the heart of the hotel, the House Bar and connecting Kitchen Restaurant are divinely decorated, authentic vintage armchairs nestling cosily beside contemporary furnishings creating a candlelit haven

of epic industrial glamour. I find myself wondering if owners John Courtney and Michelle Deery would notice if I sequestered the luscious red velvet, deep buttoned sofa... Rediscover board games and records (remember those?) Big, round and black, play music like Supertramp and Leonard Cohen. Love them and they’re here in the hotel’s private guest Drawing Room where guests chill out, relax and partake of a classic Kiwi drop at the Honesty Bar. Opulently stylish meets genuine warmth and the best personal service, the Hotel DeBrett has emerged a stunning, statement of luxury from its beginnings and past as colourful and vivacious as the lush-pile carpets.

Finest details from the vintage valve radio in my room to the Judith Darragh chandelier in the House Bar.

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Northland

THE GOOD LIFE – KERIKERI, BAY OF ISLANDS by Veronica Gadd

Northland

After the summer buzz has died away, I always feel that autumn is the time to recharge my batteries. This trip was about rest, relaxation, peace and repast and I was delighted to discover that I could, quite literally, have it all in one spot. I’m heading to Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands, about three-and-a-half hours’ drive north of Auckland.

erikeri – the mere mention of the name conjures up sunripened tropical fruit, lush vegetation and a warmth that emanates from the locals as much as it does from the weather. Northland is New Zealand’s only subtropical zone and the Autumn sun lingers longer up here than in other parts of the country. Kerikeri overflows with orchards, gourmet food producers, wineries, art galleries and artist’s studios. Plus there’s a lively café scene, a feast of quality restaurants and various boutique shops selling everything

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from designer clothing and home décor to Kerikeri’s own natural skincare range at Living Nature which has over 200 products made from the unique and potent properties of New Zealand plants, honeys and clays. On my approach to the township, I pass many family owned orchards selling their wares on the side of the road. The region is famous for its delicious oranges, kiwifruit and avocados so I can’t resist stopping at one of the stalls to stock up for the next few days.

Then we spot a sign for Makana Confections - a boutique chocolate factory, and I swerve to pull in as I can’t resist chocolate at the best of times and I’ve heard that these guys make what is probably the best handmade chocolates in the southern hemisphere. They give us a couple of free samples and that’s it, I’m hooked! We stand by the window where you can watch the staff in the kitchen actually making these delights, then buy some gift boxes as presents (if they last that long).

Kerikeri Basin

After settling into our delightful eco-cottage nestled in a lush subtropical garden, we decide to start at the beginning – with a visit to one of New Zealand’s most historic sites. Kerikeri was home ground for the fearsome Hongi Hika, a Maori chief who terrorised many tribes throughout the North Island in the early 1800s. Yet he was kind to missionaries - allowing New Zealand’s second mission station to be established here. Kerikeri Mission House (also known as Kemp House) was built in 1822 under the shadow of Kororipo Pa, Hongi Hika’s fortress.

peppery pinotage and vibrant cabernets. I’m determined to try them all, so next day, after a relaxing breakfast of fresh fruits, crusty baked bread and locally made cheese, we set off to Marsden Estate Winery, one of the larger established wineries in the area, taking its name from Samuel Marsden who planted the first 100 grapevines in Kerikeri back in 1819. From there it’s a short hop to several other wineries – Cottle Hill, who’s owners sailed to the Bay of Islands from California over a decade ago and liked it so much they established the winery from scratch; the quirkily named Fat Pig Vineyard , where we are joined at the Cellar Door by various pets including the dogs, a pig and my favourite, Miss Manky the cat. Our last stop for the day is Ake Ake Vineyard who grow their grapes organically and use minimal intervention in the winery. We stay for a late lunch in the stylish bistro-style, vineyard restaurant which is set amongst the vines.

Farmers’ Market Next door is New Zealand’s first shop, The Stone Store, built in 1836 by an exconvict stonemason from New South Wales. It is New Zealand’s oldest surviving commercial building. Today it contains artefacts and displays of its history, and true to its origins, still sells a range of heritage-related merchandise reflecting its earlier days as a trading post and general store. There’s also a newly opened café called the Honey House offering treats made to historic recipes in the former curator’s cottage behind the Stone Store. This area is known as the Kerikeri Basin and is located on the banks of the Kerikeri River at the far end of town. Just over the pedestrian bridge that crosses the river is Rewa’s village, a fascinating replica of an 18th century Maori fishing village built in the traditional way using native materials. It’s a relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

Award Winning Northland Wine

No visit to Kerikeri would be complete without visiting the cellar door at some of the wineries on the Northland wine trail. Northland is the birthplace of New Zealand’s wine making with the first vines planted in 1819. The industry was re-vitalised here during the 1960’s and Northland is now the country’s fastest growing wine region, winning awards and gaining a reputation for tropical chardonnay’s, spicy syrah,

Northland has a range of Golf courses sprinkled around the Twin Coast Discovery Highway to suit players at every level including tournament quality Kauri Cliffs and Peppers Carrington Resort. From panoramic Tasman Sea views to stunning Pacific Ocean vistas, golfers can expect the scenery to be totally distracting. We vow to come back for a dedicated “golfing trip” next time.

The Art Trail

Kerikeri’s beautiful scenery and peaceful pace of life is a magnet for painters, sculptors, potters, native wood turners and other artists. The many art galleries and private studios provide us with a visual feast as we tiki tour around the local outlets on the Kerikeri Art Trail. We stop and watch several artists at their craft, which makes their work seem even more appealing.

Puketi Forest

A definite highlight for me is The Bay of Islands Farmers Market which has been drawing crowds year round since it began in 2004. The rules are that the stallholders must be either the owner of the business or someone who is involved in producing the food being offered for sale. Just don’t eat before you go! Fresh vegetables, fruit (many seasonal and subtropical varieties), fresh fish, organic meat, locally grown wines, olive oils, organic garlic and ooh the gourmet cheese! The stall holders are really friendly, and you can sample your way around the market trying some of the produce. If you’re still hungry then there’s plenty of hot food and coffee ‘to go’. Local musicians playing a variety of styles of music add to the ambiance. The market is located in the Hobson Street car park every Sunday from 8.30am to 12 noon.

While in the area, I had an urge to walk amongst some of the enormous kauri trees that Northland is famous for. Just out of Kerikeri is the Puketi Forest, an ancient kauri forest and one of the largest contiguous tracts of native forest in Northland. Within its 15,000 hectares (37,000 acres) are magnificent stands of kauri, podocarp and hardwood trees, and a rich ecological diversity including 370 recorded species of plants, some of which are found nowhere else in the world. The forests are also are vitally important refuges for threatened wildlife such as Kokako, North Island Brown Kiwi and Kukupa (NZ pigeon).

Kerikeri Golf

As keen golfers, we take time out from our eating, drinking and shopping to play a round at the Bay of Islands Golf Club as we’ve heard it’s a favourite with the locals. Sitting between Puketotara Stream and the Kerikeri River, the Golf Club has the lushest native bush alive with the sound of birds. The greens and fairways at the course are immaculate and it boasts water hazards that leave a lasting impression. The signature hole here is the 13th – pretty as a picture, but with teeth!

There are well signposted walks ranging from real easy, like the 20 minute Manginangina Kauri Walk which follows a boardwalk that winds through a mature stand of kauri and swamp forest, to full day treks suitable for experienced trampers. There are also guided night walks to see and hear the nocturnal creatures that live there. Getting up close and personal to the giant kauris in the forest is a humbling and lasting experience. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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