i-SITE Visitor Information Centre Network
www.i-SITE.org.nz
Experience New Zealand like a local – wherever your travels take you. We know all the best things to do, places to stay and ways to get there. Plus we’ll take care of your bookings. Start with i-SITE today. • • • •
Itinerary planning and information Bookings nationwide – accommodation, activities, transport Free maps, weather & mountain safety information Local information – events, attractions, restaurants & more!
BAY OF ISLANDS i-SITE The Wharf, Marsden Rd, Paihia T (09) 402 7345 bayofislands@i-SITE.org FAR NORTH i-SITE Cnr Matthews Avenue & South Street T (09) 408 9450 kaitaia@i-SITE.org HOKIANGA i-SITE SH12, Opononi T (09) 405 8869 hokianga@i-SITE.org WHANGAREI i-SITE 92 Otaika Rd, Whangarei T (09) 438 1079 whangarei@i-SITE.org
AUCKLAND AUCKLAND i-SITE – DOMESTIC TERMINAL Air NZ Domestic Terminal, Auckland Airport T (09) 365 9928 aucklandairport@i-SITE.org AUCKLAND i-SITE – INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL Arrivals Hall, International Terminal, Auckland Airport T (09) 365 9925 aucklandairport@i-SITE.org AUCKLAND i-SITE – PRINCES WHARF 137 Quay St, Auckland T (09) 365 9914 auckland@i-SITE.org AUCKLAND i-SITE – SKYCITY Level P3, Skycity, Cnr Victoria & Federal Sts, Auckland T (09) 365 9918 auckland@i-SITE.org DEVONPORT i-SITE 3 Victoria Rd, Devonport T (09) 365 9906 devonport@i-SITE.org WAIHEKE ISLAND i-SITE 118 Oceanview Road, Oneroa T (09) 372 1234 waiheke@i-SITE.org WARKWORTH i-SITE 1 Baxter St, Warkworth T (09) 365 9917 warkworth@i-SITE.org
WAIKATO/KING COUNTRY CAMBRIDGE i-SITE Cnr Queen and Victoria Sts, Cambridge T (07) 823 3456 cambridge@i-SITE.org HAMILTON i-SITE Garden Place, Hamilton T (07) 958 5960 hamilton@i-SITE.org HUNTLY i-SITE 156 Great South Rd, Huntly T (07) 828 6406 huntly@i-SITE.org MATAMATA i-SITE 45 Broadway, Matamata T (07) 888 7260 matamata@i-SITE.org OTOROHANGA I-SITE 27 Turongo St, Otorohanga T (07) 873 8951 otorohanga@i-SITE.org
TAUMARUNUI I-SITE Railway Stn, Hakiaha St, Taumarunui T (07) 895 7494 taumarunui@i-SITE.org TE AROHA I-SITE 102 Whitaker St, Te Aroha T (07) 884 8052 tearoha@i-SITE.org
TIRAU i-SITE SH1, Tirau T (07) 883 1202 tirau@i-SITE.org
WHANGAMATA i-SITE 616 Port Rd, Whangamata T (07) 865 8340 whangamata@i-SITE.org
PALMERSTON NORTH i-SITE The Square, Palmerston North T (06) 350 1922 palmerstonnorth@i-SITE.org
OTAKI i-SITE 239 Centennial Park, SH1, Otaki T (06) 364 7620 otaki@i-SITE.org
TARARUA i-SITE 42 Vogel St, Woodville T (06) 376 0217 tararua@i-SITE.org
PARAPARAUMU i-SITE Coastlands, Rimu Road, Paraparaumu T (04) 298 8195 paraparaumu@i-SITE.org PORIRUA i-SITE 8 Cobham Court, Porirua T (04) 237 8088 porirua@i-SITE.org
WELLINGTON i-SITE Civic Square, Cnr Victoria & Wakefield Sts, Wellington T (04) 802 4860 wellington@i-SITE.org
TOKOROA i-SITE SH1, Tokoroa T (07) 886 8872 tokoroa@i-SITE.org
THAMES i-SITE 206 Pollen St, Thames T (07) 868 7284 thames@i-SITE.org
MANAWATU/WANGANUI
UPPER HUTT i-SITE Expressions Art & Entertainment Centre 836 Fergusson Drive T (04) 527 2168 upperhutt@i-SITE.org
TE KUITI i-SITE Rora St, Te Kuiti T (07) 878 8077 tekuiti@i-SITE.org
COROMANDEL i-SITE 355 Kapanga Rd, Coromandel T (07) 866 8598 coromandel@i-SITE.org
MARTINBOROUGH i-SITE 18 Kitchener St, Martinborough T (06) 306 5010 martinborough@i-SITE.org MASTERTON i-SITE Cnr Dixon and Bruce Sts, Masterton T (06) 370 0900 masterton@i-SITE.org
WANGANUI i-SITE 31 Taupo Quay St, Wanganui T (06) 349 0508 wanganui@i-SITE.org
TE AWAMUTU i-SITE 1 Gorst Ave, Te Awamutu T (07) 871 3259 teawamutu@i-SITE.org
COROMANDEL
HUTT CITY i-SITE The Pavilion, 25 Laings Rd, Lower Hutt T (04) 560 4715 huttcity@i-SITE.org
STRATFORD I-SITE Miranda St, Stratford T (06) 765 6708 stratford@i-SITE.org
PUTARURU i-SITE 6 Main Street, Putaruru T (07) 883 7284 putaruru@i-SITE.org
WAITOMO i-SITE 21 Waitomo Caves Rd, Waitomo T (07) 878 7640 waitomo@i-SITE.org
WELLINGTON
NEW PLYMOUTH i-SITE 65 St Aubyn St, New Plymouth T (06) 759 0897 newplymouth@i-SITE.org SOUTH TARANAKI i-SITE 55 High St, Hawera T (06) 278 8599 southtaranaki@i-SITE.org
North Island i-SITE Visitor Centres NORTHLAND
TARANAKI
RUAPEHU i-SITE 54 Clyde St, Ohakune T (06) 385 8427 ruapehu@i-SITE.org TAUPO i-SITE 30 Tongariro St, Taupo T (07) 376 0027 taupo@i-SITE.org TURANGI i-SITE Ngawaka Place, Turangi T (07) 386 8999 turangi@i-SITE.org
EAST COAST/HAWKES BAY GISBORNE i-SITE 209 Grey St, Gisborne T (06) 868 6139 gisborne@i-SITE.org
WHITIANGA i-SITE 66 Albert St, Whitianga T (07) 866 5555 whitianga@i-SITE.org
BAY OF PLENTY OPOTIKI i-SITE 70 Bridge St, Opotiki T (07) 315 3031 opotiki@i-SITE.org TAURANGA i-SITE 95 Willow St, Tauranga T (07) 578 8103 tauranga@i-SITE.org WHAKATANE i-SITE Cnr Quay St & Kakaharoa Drive, Whakatane T (07) 308 6058 whakatane@i-SITE.org
VOLCANIC PLATEAU ROTORUA i-SITE 1167 Fenton St, Rotorua T (07) 348 5179 rotorua@i-SITE.org
HASTINGS i-SITE Cnr Russell & Heretaunga St East, Hastings T (06) 873 0080 hastings@i-SITE.org
Search for i-SITEs and get the latest map on your smart phone:
NAPIER i-SITE 100 Marine Parade, Napier T (06) 834 1911 napier@i-SITE.org WAIROA i-SITE Cnr SH2 & Queen St, Wairoa T (06) 838 7440 wairoa@i-SITE.org 11/12
www.i-SITE.org.nz or ph 0800 474 8369
i-SITE Visitor Information Centre Network
www.i-SITE.org.nz
South Island i-SITE Visitor Centres NELSON/TASMAN GOLDEN BAY i-SITE Willow St, Takaka T (03) 525 9136 goldenbay@i-SITE.org MOTUEKA i-SITE 20 Wallace St, Motueka T (03) 528 6543 motueka@i-SITE.org NELSON i-SITE Millers Acre Centre, Taha o te Awa, 77 Trafalgar St, Nelson T (03) 548 2304 nelson@i-SITE.org
MARLBOROUGH BLENHEIM i-SITE 8 Sinclair St, Blenheim T (03) 577 8080 blenheim@i-SITE.org PICTON i-SITE The Foreshore, Picton T (03) 520 3113 picton@i-SITE.org
WEST COAST FRANZ JOSEF i-SITE Main Rd, SH6, Franz Josef T (03) 752 0796 franzjosef@i-SITE.org GREYMOUTH i-SITE 164 Mackay St, Greymouth T (03) 768 7080 greymouth@i-SITE.org HOKITIKA i-SITE 36 Weld St, Hokitika T (03) 755 6166 hokitika@i-SITE.org
METHVEN i-SITE 160 Main St, Methven T (03) 302 8955 methven@i-SITE.org TIMARU i-SITE 2 George St, Timaru T (03) 687 9997 timaru@i-SITE.org
OTAGO/SOUTHLAND CLUTHA i-SITE 4 Clyde St, Balclutha T (03) 418 0388 balclutha@i-SITE.org
CENTRAL OTAGO/SOUTHERN LAKES
DUNEDIN i-SITE 26 Princes St, Dunedin T (03) 474 3300 dunedin@i-SITE.org
ALEXANDRA i-SITE 21 Centennial Ave, Alexandra T (03) 448 9515 alexandra@i-SITE.org
INVERCARGILL i-SITE Queens Park, 108 Gala St, Invercargill T (03) 211 0895 invercargill@i-SITE.org
CROMWELL i-SITE 47 The Mall, Cromwell T (03) 445 0212 cromwell@i-SITE.org
OAMARU i-SITE 1 Thames St, Oamaru T (03) 434 1656 oamaru@i-SITE.org
FIORDLAND i-SITE Lake Front Drive, Te Anau T (03) 249 8900 fiordland@i-SITE.org LAKE WANAKA i-SITE 100 Ardmore St, Wanaka T (03) 443 1233 lakewanaka@i-SITE.org QUEENSTOWN i-SITE Clocktower Building, cnr Camp & Shotover Sts, Queenstown T (03) 442 4100 queenstown@i-SITE.org RANFURLY i-SITE 3 Charlemont St East, Ranfurly T (03) 444 1005 ranfurly@i-SITE.org
PAPAROA NATIONAL PARK i-SITE Main Rd, SH6, Punakaiki T (03) 731 1895 punakaiki@i-SITE.org REEFTON i-SITE 67-69 Broadway, Reefton T (03) 732 8391 reefton@i-SITE.org WESTPORT i-SITE 113 Palmerston St, Westport T (03) 789 6658 westport@i-SITE.org
CANTERBURY ASHBURTON i-SITE East St, Ashburton T (03) 308 1050 ashburton@i-SITE.org CHRISTCHURCH i-SITE Botanic Gardens, Rolleston Avenue T (03) 379 9629 christchurch@i-SITE.org CHRISTCHURCH AIRPORT i-SITE International Arrivals Hall, Christchurch Airport T (03) 353 7774 christchurchairport@i-SITE.org GERALDINE I-SITE Cnr Cox & Talbot Sts, Geraldine T (03) 693 1006 geraldine@i-SITE.org HURUNUI i-SITE 42 Amuri Ave West, Hanmer Springs T (03) 315 0020 hanmersprings@i-SITE.org KAIAPOI i-SITE Railway Station, Charles St, Kaiapoi T 03 327 3134 kaiapoi@i-SITE.org
Search for i-SITEs and get the latest map on your smart phone:
KAIKOURA i-SITE West End, Kaikoura T (03) 319 5641 kaikoura@i-SITE.org
11/12
www.i-SITE.org.nz or ph 0800 474 8369
Editor’s corner Production Editor Gary J Cody gary.cody@focusmediagroup.com.au Account Manager Tamara Berryman tamara.berryman@focusmediagroup.com.au Copy Editor Jaime McKee jaime.mckee@focusmediagroup.com.au Director of Business Development Robert Chambers robert.chambers@focusmediagroup.com.au Content Manager Andrew Kade andrew.kade@focusmediagroup.com.au Content Coordinator Micaela Lowis Senior Designer Nicholas Ramsamy nicholas.ramsamy@focusmediagroup.com.au Graphic Designers Fiona Miras Ammar Haider Ebic Tristary Publisher Jeff Hocken jeff.hocken@focusmediagroup.com.au Published by
New Zealand Office Postmasters Precinct 54 Buckingham Street Arrowtown New Zealand Ph: +64 (0)3 4098059 tnz@focusmediagroup.com.au www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com Melbourne Head Office 675 Victoria Street Abbotsford VIC Australia Ph: +61 (0)3 8689 0050 info@focusmediagroup.com.au www.focusmediagroup.com.au
4
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Kia Ora Adventure Capital, Adrenaline Junkies, 4,3,2,1, Jump. It has to be said: New Zealand can and will scare the living daylights out of you if that is what you want. And “Mitch,” one of New Zealand’s most radical and fearless adventurers, takes on all that the tourism operators can dish up. Enjoy her national tour and experiences. She is fearless! One of the most interesting and unique activities in New Zealand is our Maori Culture. Take time to delve into this amazing Pacific experience - Heather Hapeta knows better than anyone where all the highlights are. My journey into Milford Sound was a treat. Since I was a young lad, Milford was always on the family excursion agenda, living only 3 hours away. My experience this time was with Real Journeys, a true example of what a New Zealand tourism operator should be. My experience is in the Fiordland section. I hope you enjoy the read as much as I enjoyed TheReal Journey. In the air or on the ground, enjoy our Summer edition and look forward to Mitch’s next experience in our Autumn edition - a ten day mountain ascent… Seasons Greetings. Hei konā mai Gary J Cody
Contents EDITOR’S CORNER
4
aDRENALINE bEYOND
6
MAORI CULTURE
26
THE RIVER KING
36
HAMILTON JET
REGIONS NORTHLAND
44
AUCKLAND
48
AUCKLAND REVISITED
54
COROMANDEL
58
BAY OF PLENTY
64
WAIKATO
70
ROTORUA
74
EASTLAND
80
RUAPEHU
84
WELLINGTON
90
NELSON
92
MARLBOUROUGH
98
WEST COAST
104
KAIKOURA
110
KAIKOURA-WILDERNESS
113
HURUNUI
118
HURUNUI - WAIPARA
122
CHRISTCHURCH
126
TEKAPO MT COOK
132
QUEENSTOWN
136
QUEENSTOWN - SKYLINE
142
ARROWTOWN
146
WANAKA
150
CENTRAL OTAGO
154
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
5
Leaping, launching, hurtling, and plummeting my way throughout New Zealand makes it official I am Mitch, a Kiwi adrenaline junkie
Adrenaline beyond by Mitch
Ironic, as the Kiwi is a flightless bird with no real response to danger, and an adrenaline rush is the fightor-flight response of the adrenal glands. It is an extremely intense energetic feeling and it comes with different symptoms. If you undergo such a rush, it is likely that you will experience an increase in strength. Your breathing and heart rate will jump suddenly. Your senses, including vision and touch, are heightened.
6
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
The body has enough adrenaline for the feeling to last for ninety seconds. Within this time, the rush brings less hesitation and more confidence, plus a sudden boost of energy. We’ve known about this wonderful stuff for one hundred and twelve years—plenty of time for the adrenaline junkie to flourish and burst forth as it has in New Zealand.
“Adrenaline junkie” is a nonmedical colloquial term made cool in the 1991 movie Point Break. An adrenaline junkie is defined by Wikipedia as one who self-induces the “fight-orflight response” by intentionally engaging in stressful or risky behaviour which causes a release of epinephrine by the adrenal gland. I am an adrenaline junkie because I have done just that all over New Zealand.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
7
skydiving
Adrenaline beyond My incredible adventure kicks off with NZONE Skydive in Queenstown. Their dropzone location is spectacular: rugged peaks and stunning natural surroundings. I will climb up above the mountains in NZONE’s brand new Cessna Grand Caravan. This aeroplane can carry up to six tandem jumpers, allowing groups to stick together during their once-in-a-lifetime experience. I really love the plane’s groovy paint job: with jagged teeth all around her propeller snout, she seems like an old friend with gutsy attitude and formidable grin. Mirroring the great plane is the NZONE crew, all with formidable grins. Sasa Joich, my Tandem Master, is an old friend from my Queenstown days of extreme sports in the nineties. I did stunts for movies and lived the life of an extreme skier, paraglider, and bungy jumper. He is very passionate about skydiving and is extremely experienced and professional. NZONE has a rock-solid reputation, being the first original tandem option in New Zealand twenty-two years ago. They are renowned for the most comprehensive skydiving facilities in the country. I and other self-induced risk takers load into the toothy Cessna and spiral upwards to 15,000 ft (4572 metres), the magic number of the day. Down at the dropzone, eyebrows shoot up with envy. As we climb, I am fizzing on the inside; as the altitude rises, the frenzy builds. That’s not all that’s building: the view above the Southern Alps is becoming so vast, I can see all the way down to Fiordland, and to the north, the majestic Mt Cook (Aorangi) reaches toward heaven. The sheer scale of all the South Island in one view is surreal, beautiful, and demands a quick gasp. Thousands of frosted peaks march the length of the island and the azure blue of Lake Wakatipu twinkles diamonds at me; I could be Wendy flying with Peter Pan
8
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
over Neverland. The fact that I’m Mitch, flying with Sasa over our glacially carved wonderland, and that this is real, is even better. I can see all the peaks I have stood on top of in my lifetime. The view is ridiculously satisfying, but the best bit is yet to come. My fellow skydivers and I nudge as one toward the giant open door of the aircraft. Tandem Master Sasa Joich gently tips and eases me face-first over the ledge of the gaping Cessna door, and the alpha stage of my sixty-second plummet is upon us. The environment suddenly changes. The friendly purr of our climbing workhorse quickly fades, and the roar of terminal velocity is immediate, whizzing through every pore in my skin. The soft bits of my face are trying to wrap themselves around the back of my earlobes, and I love it! I love the plummet. I love the speed of my breathable air rushing by. I LOVE IT!
“I can see all the peaks I have stood on top of in my lifetime. The view is ridiculously satisfying, but the best bit is yet to come.”
“We pendulum about above the Remarkables, then float down to the glorious setting that is the NZONE dropzone.” We are falling in the head-down position (I have always wanted to experience this move). It results in a much faster fall rate: average speeds while flying head-down are around 160 mph (260 kph). Fabulous. Sasa stabilizes our freefall with a box position (belly to Earth), and with an accidental turn of my wrist, we bank right. It feels exactly the same as when I fly in my dreams – the greatest. I learn so much within my sixty-second freefall, experimenting with tiny movements of my body to choose our direction, that it feels like forever. I am very grateful to have been given the reins for so long. The chute opens, resulting in another change, so rapid that we momentarily become weightless. Our legs kick up simultaneously. We pendulum about above the Remarkables, then float down to the glorious setting that is the NZONE dropzone. Hugs all round.
What a rush!
10
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
11
Canyoning
Adrenaline beyond
Canyoning with Mike Enright’s company, Canyoning.co.nz, is a major event for my body’s adrenaline output. Mike provides three extraordinary canyoning choices. Today’s choice is Queenstown Canyon. I am in a beautiful beech forest; it’s Twelve Mile Creek Gorge under Mount Crichton. So serene—but not for long. Our amazing, qualified guides are Andrew Humphries and Panos the Greek. These guys have class, dealing with danger in the most professional manner I have ever witnessed in canyoning. Andrew Humphries is our leader, and with him in charge, we get the job done. Panos’s cool keeps us all in check. He takes the trip seriously, as well he should; we have to deal with many ziplines, many metres, huge waterfalls, and a whole lot of adrenaline. He remains mostly silent, but his face softens with kindness when we achieve our death-defying challenges. What a team. On top of this and the Routeburn Canyoning, Mike has designed a tantalising mission that I just can’t wait to do: a helicopter-canyoning combination on Mt Earnslaw up the Rees Valley. This is a new, super-exciting trip. I know this area well; I’ve taken 12
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
many choppers, paragliders, fixed wing aircraft, mountain bikes, and 4WDs up “the Rees,” and it is my favourite place in the world. Mother Nature is in charge of this adventure; it is only available when she decides that it’s time for summer. The Rees Valley is Lord of the Rings territory, and I am keen to be one of the first to experience this most demanding canyoning descent yet. In untouched, pristine rainforest, mountain beech trees and rare little robins set the perfect backdrop. We have a ten-hour day ahead of us, with up to six hours of canyoning, so I may need to grow a pair. The canyon has an R18 rating, with 500 metres of vertical descent, requiring canyoneers to have a good level of fitness. After brushing up on my previous abseiling experience, I step off, lean back, and get in touch with gravity. Walls of sheer cliffs twist downward with the charging flow of mountain snowmelt. The adventure lasts a few hours, and my busy brain delves into fight-or-flight debates time and time again. For an adrenaline junkie, it’s superb value for money. Little do I realize, Andrew is controlling our emotions with his tone of voice: soft and encouraging for the timid and rising in volume with anxiety for the dangerously over-confident. I leap, I whiz, I flip, I rappel, I scramble—I conquer the canyon. What a rush!
“Panos’ cool keeps us all in check: he takes the trip seriously, as well he should; we have to deal with many ziplines, many metres, huge waterfalls, and a whole lot of adrenalin.” Panos The Greek
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
13
0.25 AD
“Ethereal opal colours warp under the mini whirlpools my paddle makes.” Rafting
Adrenaline beyond Queenstown Rafting provides a whole other style of adrenaline surge. Now I am in the snowy peaks of the Alps, experiencing fight-or-flight sensations, and we are not even in the raft yet! I am deep in the heart of Skippers, bouncing and jostling in a bus down the old gold miners’ road. Road? More like deathly cliffs with a little track on top and the Shotover River way down below us. So my flight response is alive and well, only I can’t get off the bus and give in to my very strong flight urge! The gorgeous Kirsty Wyndham tells us wonderful stories of their fully guided three-day rafting trips on the Landsborough River. Silky pinot noirs, sleeping in luxury, helidrops—it all sounds splendid. A little noise static interferes with my daydream of rafting the Landsborough in full style. It’s raft
guide Jack Robinsons’s poignant comedy, referring to our sexy rubber suits. (Yeah right!) Relief at last: we pull into Deep Creek, where Queenstown Rafting guides Tom Savage, Chief Hahare (a living legend in the rafting community), and Jack split us into three groups. We are taught commands for body positions, holds, and paddling. Our adrenaline juices are still pumping from the terrifying journey into the canyon, and our anticipation and excitement is flowing; then we get in our rafts, and the real adventure begins. I am bobbing off down the mighty Shotover River, single paddle in hand, marvelling at the rugged walls that rise out of the river. Wild goats, clearly descendants of Fred Astaire, dance freely along the dizzying heights. We float down the river through a serene world, rich in gold mining history and outrageously interesting geology.
The canyon is the result of glaciers, earthquakes, and constant, severe mountain weather. Mother Nature is still whipping the Shotover River into shape. Every now and then, the river kicks back and completely changes her demeanour. The battle makes the river dangerous for us mere mortals. We have to pick our days. Today’s great: in fact, it’s a stunner. Ethereal opal colours warp under the mini whirlpools my paddle makes. Schist and quartz bedrock sparkles, teasing any poor sucker with gold fever. No wonder 7,000 miners from all over the world ended up here during the 1862 gold rush. Skippers Canyon is a direct feed into the centre of the earth, a land of tragedy and triumph, of harsh conditions. If the canyon could tell us the wild stories she had seen play out, Hollywood would be out of a job. Little do I know the beauty and history of it all are about to be the last thing on my mind. The Mother Rapids are just around the corner. Successive and exhilarating grade four and five rapids cascade and thump through narrow canyons. My adrenal gland winds up as we approach the roaring rapids. Tom commands readiness. My heart starts to race, and the fight-or-flight response kicks in. But there is no escaping the raft now, so I’m going to have to fight. Tom Savage is the perfect guide, a true professional, and he takes charge. White water explodes and throws us where it
wants, angry and deafening. I feel the adrenaline whip through me. Survival is paramount. My senses are heightened and extra confidence kicks in. I am strong and focused. The feeling is magnificent. I shriek with glee, then, like a shapeshifter, my frenzy morphs into quiet calm.
“My adrenal gland winds up as we approach the roaring rapids.”
What a rush!
0.25 AD
NEW ZEALAND
Come and see us at 39 Camp Street, Queenstown or give us a call 03 441 3003
Off Road
Adrenaline beyond
Off Road Adventures in Queenstown is my next stop. These guys that run it are salt-ofthe-earth, with an international reputation that is second to none. I am lucky enough to be here today in Gibbston Valley, dressed like a Crusty Demon and feeling mighty cool, thanks to my good friend Denis Columb, the pioneer of this wonderful institution. I am stoked. My mission: to enjoy the thrill of the machine.
The Columb clan are a sterling breed. They live and breathe the awesome world of off-road trail and quad bikes. Each member of the family is incredibly talented in his or her own right, with a list of championship titles as long as my arm. Back in the summer of 1993, I was a mountain bike guide with Simon Hunt and Simon Stone, doing a kids’ clinic on the Shadow Basin cat tracks. I will never forget my first hit of Columb spirit: Brendan Columb was about nine years old and executed the cleanest and most committed downhill switchback move off a massive boulder I have ever seen. It was impressive, to say the least. Off Road Adventures is a team of good, humble Kiwis with a vision to share their expertise, the pure joy of these machines, and this amazing scenery with the world. It’s fantastic for all age groups, so families can share the intense buzz together. The experience offers an adrenaline rush for one and all. I rate that highly.
16
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“This beast of a trail bike has suddenly replaced my greatest love of twenty yearsI didn’t see that coming.” I enter trailblazing wonderland and get to enjoy some of the best off-road trails in New Zealand. My trusty steed, a top-quality, late-model trail bike, is wicked. I give the throttle a squirt. Its growl has power. Lachie Columb, my guide today, is a natural leader, and his skills as a guide in this field are unbeatable. After some warm up runs, I get a little cocky and body plant into a mega mud hole. But I have a good time, and I want more. Lachie gives me pointers on core balance and leg positions that immediately improve my riding. It’s a life-changing day for me; flying on skis over snowy land masses at speed is what usually I live for, but to my astonishment, this beast of a trail bike has suddenly replaced my greatest love of twenty years—I didn’t see that coming. Lachie gently teaches me more and more. It’s a treat to watch him ride. He suggests I might like to learn to jump. The Aussie family on quad bikes is loving it too. Lachie and I head off to the jump, and my fight response locks in for launching and landing. I pop off the wee bump and get some air. It’s a blast. My heart is pumping, and the climax is yet to come. I climb on the back of Lachie’s bike. He says, “Hang on tight,” and we blast off for a thrilling ride. He shows me unbelievable riding skills, from wheelstands to huge air. I never want it to end. What a rush!
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
17
“This great ferry connects Kiwis between Wellington and Picton four times daily.”
The Bluebridge Ferry’s big blue signs easily direct me up the plank. The crisp, warm glow of the morning is welcoming. Laughing seagulls slice through the thick salty air. This great ferry connects Kiwis between Wellington and Picton four times daily. Crossing the Cook Strait, I am heading North for more action. But first, I enjoy a big breakfast on board. The Bluebridge Ferry brochure mentions “some real Kiwi hospitality.” I people-watch in the bustling on-board café and begin to understand that “some real Kiwi hospitality” is a major understatement. The Bluebridge staff are really outstanding: they go above and beyond. Talk about comfy and friendly. What a lovely atmosphere and great advice with all the delicious goodies on offer. A lady leaves her smartphone behind, and a member of the staff tracks her down and returns it, to her great relief. I meet Jason Rubi and Glen Mathews from the hospitality team. I thank them both for being so helpful; they make you feel as if nothing is a problem. The ferry has so much going on: free movies, award-winning Marlborough wines, play areas for the kids, amazing views, private cabins – it’s got it all. Up on the viewing deck, a little girl peers over the railing and automatically pulls back when she realises how high up she is. (A flight-or-fight response, perhaps?) Then the pièce de résistance: she’s enjoying looking over the edge and squeals with delight when she spots dolphins cruising the wake cresting off the side of this graceful vessel. Fabulous, Bluebridge. Time to reflect and get ready for the next round.
18
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Adrenaline beyond
www.bluebridge.co.nz 0800 844 844 (NZ Freephone) +64 4 471 6188 (from overseas) www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
19
X Flight Aerobatic Flights at the Ardmore Airport in Pakuranga, Auckland, is an extraordinary exp erience, and I highly recommend it to serious thrill seekers. The X Flight is not for the fainthearted. Wayne Ormrod is New Zealand’s most experienced Extra300 Pilot. What an awesome man. He’s that rare James Bond sort, and a helluva nice guy. Wayne is a three-time RNZAC Aerobatic Champion. He is also an unrestricted flight instructor and is the owner and founder of the X Flight Aerobatic team. But he doesn’t have a giant ego; instead he has a big friendly smile and a genuine love of flight. Wayne makes things happen; he used to have a bad job selling appliances when a grumpy old topdressing pilot inspired him to take up flying. He quit that day, got on the net, and sourced funding for an aviation degree at Massey. He excelled and graduated top of his class. Wayne Ormrod took my cousins and I, Jack (nine years old), Kahlan (six years old), and Mandy (mum) for a guided tour around the sexy little aerobatic plane. He let the wee ones sit in the cockpit and wear the top gun helmets (they nearly exploded with excitement). Wayne explains the eject button and wearing parachutes to me. Cousin Jack teases me: “Haha! Make you nervous yet?” I think, “You betcha, cuz,” but I don’t want to blow my cover in front of supercool Wayne Ormrod, aerobatic pilot extraordinaire. 20
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Adrenaline beyond
“The adventure lasts a few hours, and my busy brain delves into fight-or-flight debates time and time again. For an adrenaline junkie, it’s superb value for money.” The plane is seductive. This girl has so much herb under the bonnet that we don’t use much of the runway to take off. Suddenly, we are up there. Famous for competing in the Red Bull Air Race, it is the world’s fastest, most powerful twoseat certified aerobatic aircraft, capable of flying at over 400 kph. My X Flight master eases me in with a barrel roll – spinning horizon, peaceful, not too scary. Then a double roll to the left. It happens so fast. I love the “Hammerhead” move: straight up, pulling Gs, and roll over to the left. Now full power as we feel negative Gs. We are going down in a move called the “Shark’s Tooth,” then suddenly we head straight up, up and away from the planet. We enter the dive, and then comes the good stuff. All my soft organs are on their own tangent—are my eyeballs really trying to squeeze out through to my toes? My adrenaline is charging now. This new reality is making my body pump; I reach a pinnacle of zooming on the inside when Wayne gives me the controls. I bank and dive and love it. I want more! It is an epic journey. What a rush!
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
21
Sky Walk
Adrenaline beyond The Auckland Sky Tower is the coolest space-age spire, thrusting ever upwards. I cherish my George Jetson moment. A little boy in the lift next to me is looking down saying, “Man! That’s so random.” I look down too, and he’s right: there is a glass floor in the lift, and it’s freaky to peer down through it to the ground far below. Beam me up, Scotty. The lift shoots us 192 metres up – time for a Sky Walk. Kitted in a onesie, I walk around the outer platform and appreciate my busy adrenal gland with the lovely Amy Wall. So many different styles of getting the rush. Who knew?
The Sky Walk is unique for the fear and challenge it creates. Nothing is whizzing by, but the effect is staggering. It’s a creeper. It’s vertigo. How weird is this feeling? I can see up to eighty kilometres away. As I gingerly step onto the 1.2 metre see-through grate, I have two safety tethers connecting my harness to the overhead rail, so if I do step off the pergola into the abyss above Auckland City, I will swing back like a pendulum. Sky Walk is as contrasting as its name—you get enjoyable expansive glorious views (nice) and intrepid, provoking exposure (scary). It’s a forty-minute stroll around the top of the tower and well worth the effort of defiance. A different coloured onesie for my next quest, the Sky Jump. Here, Jess and Janelle are in charge. These two jumpmasters are fun! They have been working together for three years and are a smooth, professional team. The laughing starts as soon as I get into their secure glass zone. They prep me for my first base jump by wire off New Zealand’s tallest man-made structure. The guy after me is waiting just outside the prep zone. Poor thing: his face is white and he is terrified. The jumpmasters and I couldn’t help it; we had to tease him and get his adrenaline near to quick-release status. It’s a big day for both of us. I am out on the ledge, karabiners pulling my harness into a giant wedgie, laughing. A quick countdown. I leap out. Yes, it’s insane. My adrenaline releases. I speed down toward Auckland far below. The people down there look like ants. Exhilaration. Terminal velocity is held at bay by the suspending wires. I am a plummeting starfish. The ground rushes up at me, and before I know it, the earth and I are back together. Buzzing, I look up to where I just launched from and here comes the lad after me, shrieking with fright and then glee, as he pulls up and lands on the target. Now he’s smiling - What a rush!
22
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“Sky Walk is as contrasting as its name—you get enjoyable expansive glorious views (nice) and intrepid, provoking exposure (scary).”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
23
Adrenaline beyond Ever dreamed you were inside a bubble? The Zorb in Rotorua is a real bubble, a giant inflatable bubble, and it is a marvel. General Manager Kyle Kydd is welcoming and entertaining. He knows his stuff, and his youthful team goes all out for their Zorb riders. This is the land of whooping and hollering; everybody is really happy here.
To my surprise, there are many Zorb variations. I choose the solo dry option. I climb in head-first through the portal, and once inside, I am in a seated harness, with squishy bits padding my head. They roll me to the edge, then release me over the hillcrest. I am off rolling down the grassy Zorb slopes: up, down, round about. I am Alice in Wonderland in a Kenwood mixer. Let me count the ways to spherically hurtle. Heehee – this is well-rounded fun. Eons go by as random jolts of the speeding bubble get my adrenaline flowing. I am loving my own rolling galaxy. There is no horizon. A splendid invention, the Zorb is a platform for many great adventure experiences. It is an inflated sphere of burbling effervescence, especially when you and a couple of mates are unharnessed inside it with a blob of sloshing water. The one constant among all the different types of Zorb rides is that the bubble picks up a fair amount of speed. There are many choices of slope to ride down. I wished I had a whole day to try all the options. I recommend the “Zig Zag” option for increased levels of freaking. Get your adrenaline on in New Zealand.
24
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
TO E! E R DA RIENC E P X E
“I am Alice in Wonderland in a Kenwood mixer. Let me count the ways to spherically hurtle. Heehee – this is wellrounded fun.”
Corner Western Rd & SH5, Rotorua, NZ www.zorb.com/rotorua
0800 22 74 74 www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
25
MAORI culture Written by Heather Hapeta
MÄ ori culture, unique to New Zealand, may be the fastest growing part of our tourism market and is the second most common reason visitors give for travelling here. Surveys tell us our natural landscape is number one and, luckily for travellers, many MÄ ori tourism experiences combine those top two reasons.
“They share their ancient histories and stories as you learn traditional paddling techniques, chants, and help paddle the fifteen-metre-long waka taua on the beautiful tidal estuaries of the Waitangi River up to the sacred Haruru Waterfall.”
culture
MAORI 28
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
While cultural concerts are important, Māori tourism also covers diverse experiences like guided walks, hot pools, eco-tourism, history, food, jet boats, and marae or luxury accommodation, and includes examples traditional and contemporary Māori life. Northland was the first New Zealand area settled by Europeans: whalers arrived at the end of the 18th century, while missionaries arrived in 1814. Most importantly, it is also the place where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed between the English Queen Victoria and many Māori chiefs in 1840. Living in this long, skinny land has allowed me to visit many Māori tourism enterprises—too many to include in this story, but here’s a taste for you to consider. Let’s start at the birthplace of “modern” New Zealand: the Waitangi
NZ’S MOST IMPORTANT HISTORIC SITE
Treaty Grounds, our nation’s most important historic site, with guided tours and cultural performances night and day. It had been years since I last visited, and my memory of walking up a grassy slope to a white house and flag pole standing alone on the top of the small rise presented a very different picture from what the Waitangi Treaty Grounds look like today: the native bush has been allowed to regrow, and it was through this, with its birdsong, that I walked earlier this year. The guided tours and activities offered at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds include “Introducing the Birthplace of our Nation,” presented through to a fun workshop with native flax, and “Living with Nature,” which explores New Zealand’s native plants and trees and their relationship to Māori legend. I valued hearing personal stories and historical accounts from people whose ancestors had been involved in shaping our nation back in those early days and, talking to other travellers, it seems hearing these stories are popular. “I love how they take it out of history books and tell me about their ancestors,” an American tourist tells me. As I was fortunate enough to be visiting during the annual celebrations of the Treaty (February 6th), I enjoyed seeing
0.25 AD
Guided Tours Cultural Performances Gift Shop & 2 Cafes Visitor Centre
Phone +64 9 402 7437
www.waitangi.org.nz
www.waitangi.org.nz Bay of Islands
0.25 AD the Ngatokimatawhaorua, one of the world’s largest carved war canoes, and many other waka (traditional canoes), as well as experiencing all the other events, music, and food. The Bay of Islands is home to the Ngapuhi tribe, and while there, I spent time with Taiamai Tours, who provides waka experiences. They share their ancient histories and stories as you learn traditional paddling techniques, chants, and help paddle the fifteenmetre-long waka taua on tahe beautiful tidal estuaries of the Waitangi River up to the sacred Haruru Waterfall. Last year, Taiamai Tours featured on
the list of the world’s fifty top “Tours of a Lifetime” in National Geographic Traveller Magazine, and I watched their international guests learning to become warriors—men and women from the USA, France, and Holland spending over a week with Hone Mihaka and his extended family before joining the Waitangi celebrations as paddlerwarriors in replica canoes. They loved leaning about Māori tradition in such a hands-on way, and all said, it was the highlight of their travels—especially being involved in our important, oneday-a-year national celebrations. Two other Northland activities I did were on the east coast. Lonely Planet rated Footprints Twilight Encounter highly in their Code Green: Experience of a Lifetime, and I joined one of Kupe’s descendants (Kupe is the great Polynesian navigator who discovered
“Being in the forest at night was very special thanks to its sounds and sights, and many of my fellow participants considered the walk spiritual.”
New Zealand) and six other travellers on a guided walk to the two largest kauri trees in the world. Being in the forest at night was very special thanks to its sounds and sights, and many of my fellow participants considered the walk spiritual. The next day, I visited a totally different environment with Sandtrails Hokianga, accompanied by Andrew, another of Kupe’s descendants. Andrew stood with me on top of the giant sand dunes, canyons, and sculptures on the north of the Hokianga Harbour—where Kupe first arrived—and regaled me with stories of regional intrigues, wars, deception, and fun. One of the great things about this trip,
in a dune buggy, is that it’s pretty exclusive, as only three people can do it at a time. No matter where you are over the length of New Zealand, Māori culture, and a diversity of enterprises and activities are just around the next corner. Just an hour north of Auckland is Te Hana Te Ao Marama, started by a trust with concerns about negative social and economic issues in the community. It’s now living proof that dreams do come true and is considered Auckland’s leading Māori Cultural Centre, with a comprehensive range of authentic Māori cultural experiences. An evening visit, the Starlight Tour, includes a
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
31
Join our family for a half day of laughter, learning and storytelling with hands on activities like weaving and a bushwalk to discover traditional uses of trees and plants as food and medicine.
“unique and fascinating” Lonely Planet Tours daily Booking is essential Intimate and personal max 10 guests per tour Freephone: 0800 866 267 ph: +64 3 3195567 em: info@maoritours.co.nz www.maoritours.co.nz
travellers voted by in NZ xperience e l ra u lt u best c unning 3 years r
“There is something magical about hearing family stories while sitting around the table, enjoying great food and good conversation.”
32
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
communal sleeping, and the usual snoring, many of you may need to takes earplugs. I’ve been told “a quiet marae is a sad marae,” and using that standard. I’ve never slept on a sad marae!
powhiri (traditional welcome) and hangi, and ends with a spine-tingling cultural performance and guided tour through the village.
Further south, Rotorua Māori have been welcoming tourists for about 165 years, and whenever I visit I’m reminded of how different the area is from other Māori tourist sites. New Zealand is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, and in Rotorua, steam billows from cracks in the ground and the air smells like old eggs. (I love the pungent geothermal mist!)
Te Hana also has accommodation where manuhiri (guests) sleep on separate mattresses arranged inside the carpeted wharenui (meeting hall). As with all
On a recent trip, I stayed at the fabulous Pounamu Lodge on the sheltered western edge of Lake Tarawera. There is something magical about hearing family stories
while sitting around the table, enjoying great food and good conversation. And when the family history includes that of Sophie Hinerangi, who guided people to the pink and white terraces before the 1886 Tarawera eruption, it’s no wonder local knowledge and being proud of guiding is evident when David and Karen Walmsley are your hosts. A home-away-from-home is what they aim for, but they provide much more than that in this luxury lodge. Purpose built to accommodate up to four guests and overlooking Mount Tarawera and the lake, the lodge has been designed with many Māori architectural features, and looking up at it from the lake, I was impressed at its wharenui shape. David and Karen offer guided tours along or across the lake that follow in the footsteps of Karen’s ancestors. I did the Lake Tarawera Water Taxi EcoTour to the hot water beach and a hot pool set in native bush. (You can also choose from hiking to the Tarawera Falls or retracing a historic boat trip taken the day before the eruption that changed the landscape forever.) Soaking in the hot pool and exploring the lakes hot water beach (where you can even cook your just-caught trout in the hot sand) were highlights for me. I also enjoyed seeing the buried village and the site of Sophie’s little house, where so many people sheltered from the eruptions debris.
Karen also took me to TeWhakaweraweratanga O Te Ope Taua A Wahiao Village which is usually, and thankfully, shortened to “Whakarewarewa or Whaka” by the local people. People have lived in this harsh environment for over three hundred years, using the gushing geysers, steam vents, and boiling water to provide cooking and bathing facilities. Interpretation and storytelling such as that provided by the Pounamu Lodge combines the best of New Zealand’s spectacular landscape with Māori stories and legends, and international visitors love it. As a travel writer, I’m told again and again by visitors that they value these authentic tourism experiences and want to interact with the local culture, no matter which country they are in, and Māori tourism provides exactly that opportunity.
A different form of storytelling is also available in Rotorua, where the Journey of Ages, part of the Tamaki Heritage Experiences, takes you back to Rotorua in 1350, when people lived in a preEuropean village in an ancient forest. It’s the home of Uitara, who we follow as he learns the arts of a warrior, the communal importance of a tribe, and how to survive. As all good theatre does, it mixes acting and technology with period settings as it tells the story (in outdoor sets) during the guided tour. Most travellers arrive at the village by bus, and the story starts on board. Once in the village, the actors present tribal life through carving, weaving, moko (tattooing), singing, dancing, and cooking as part of the livingvillage experience. Recently, there has been a cultural resurgence in natural healing. When the Māori arrived from their warm Pacific Islands, New Zealand must have seemed a huge land with strange vegetation, flightless birds, and no animals. Yet they learned to use plants, along with karakia (prayer), to keep well and cure illnesses and injuries. World-wide, medicinal plants have been used for cures, and ancient texts, such as the Vedas and the Bible, speak of using natural remedies. Rongoa, the Māori term for using medicines that are sustainably gathered from native plants, is
still being practised today. In pre-European days, the Tohunga (expert or priest) held the knowledge of the remedies, but today these skills are more widespread. Even early settlers used Māori herbal medicines for aching joints, headaches, constipation, and dysentery, and recent research shows that many of the traditional Māori remedies possess scientific validity. Māori Tours Kaikoura takes guests on tours that trace local and family history and that explore the medicinal properties of the native vegetation. Maurice Manawatu is a direct descendant of Paikea, the whale rider, and it is his family that hosts guests on these interesting and educative trips. I’m not surprised that Māori Tours Kaikoura have been awarded the TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence and awarded the Rankers “best cultural experience in New Zealand” award for three years running. It’s high praise when travellers put you at the top. In the Puhi Puhi Valley just north of Kaikoura, we walked in the ancient bush, learning to identify trees and shrubs, and heared of their medicinal and cultural uses. We learned of cures for toothache or dysentery. Maurice also pointed out the silver fern punga. “Have you heard how this became a national icon?” he asks us. Holding the fern-like leaf (green on top and silver underneath) he continues, “When Māori travelled at night, especially during times of war, the first warrior would bend a piece of the punga over so the silver showed in the moonlight for others to follow. Then as the last man came through he would turn it back so enemies would not know where they were going.” He adds to the story, “When our first national rugby team was going to the UK, Māori suggested that it would be a great emblem as they too were warriors. That’s how it started ,and now nearly all our sports teams wear the silver fern.” Many Kiwi think it should be on our flag, too. Over a cup of tea or coffee in his home, his friendly, family-focused tour is just the place to ask everything you were too afraid to ask about Māori and Māori life today!
Recently, there has been a cultural resurgence in natural healing. In Christchurch, the South Island’s largest city, is Ko Tane at Willowbank, which gives you yet another chance to see Māori culture. A conch shell blows, a chill runs down my spine, and the evening starts. Walking in the park, we pause to listen to how manuka wood is used to smoke fish and we’re suddenly startled. Māori warriors run from behind us, their cries threatening. A women beside me screams, and her
34
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
weapons, in contrast to war dances (tutu ngaruhu or peruperu), which are danced with spears, clubs, or other weapons? Kiwi Haka shows you both. All over New Zealand, new haka are performed every year and express a variety of emotions, such as joy, anger, and sorrow, or comment on social issues. At Skyline, it’s used to retell Māori history. I recommend you complete the thirty-minute show by staying for a meal.
husband laughs nervously. The warriors challenge us—do we come in peace or war? When our designated “chief” accepts the challenge, the women perform a karanga (a welcome call) and we continue into the model village, where soon we’re watching a haka performed by young men and women. “That is scary,” an Australian woman says, “You see it on TV but you don’t know it’s so loud.” Her husband replies, “Did you see how red the guys’ chests and thighs were? They really slap them hard.” The women, in swaying flax skirts, also dance with poi, their graceful movements and intricate hand actions making the balls
twirl rhythmically. Then it’s our turn. We’re not good students; most of us tangle the poi around our own and each other’s arms. In addition to the show, one of the reasons I would highly recommend Willowbank is that you can see Kiwi birds up close, not behind glass.
You can experience and enjoy Māori tourism no matter where you are travelling, from Rakiura (Stewart Island), the anchor of Maui’s canoe in the south, up to Cape Reinga, the-leaping-off-place at the top of the North Island where the spirits of the dead leave for Hawaiiki. And, next year, when Māori Television launches its master chef–type show, and with all the great Māori food around, I suspect yet more cultural and food tourism activities will be available all over New Zealand.
At the Queenstown Skyline Gondola, the view is exquisite, and you can also experience the Kiwi Haka Show and their traditional Māori songs, dances and stories at the top. After a formal, traditional welcoming ceremony, guests are taken through a journey that demonstrates and explains the use of poi, weaponry and the haka. Did you know the haka is not a war dance as it is usually danced without
Māori Marae Experience
Scenic Tours
Mataatua Wharenui AD
Visitor Centre & Gift Shop
Conference & Events Facilities
Whakatāne, New Zealand
Located 1 hour, 20 mins from Tauranga
Bookings and further information www.mataatua.com or Mataatua@ngatiawa.iwi.nz www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com 35
THE RIVER KING Hamilton Jet by Tony Kean
When Billy Hamilton was ten years old, he wished for nothing more than a boat that could travel upstream. It was exciting to kayak the rapids of a flooded Opihi River near his parents’ farm; carrying the kayak back to the top for another run, not so much. He rigged up a trailer for his homemade boat that could be towed by the dog, but it still meant a lot of walking. If only there was a way to boat upstream as well as down‌
36
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Fast forward 40 years. It’s now 1951, and Charles William Feilden (Bill) Hamilton is a successful businessman, with a growing engineering factory in Christchurch. CWF Hamilton & Co Ltd manufactures agricultural and earthmoving equipment designed by Bill and his team, and will soon be manufacturing parts for some of New Zealand’s major infrastructure projects, including hydro power plants. Bill himself lives at Irishman Creek Station in the South Canterbury High Country near Lake Tekapo and Mt Cook Aoraki. For the past thirty years, this isolated farm has been fertile ground for Bill’s innovative engineering designs, starting with an earthmoving scoop he built to dig out a new dam to provide hydro power for his home and workshop. He took
on contracting work with his earthmoving machines during the Great Depression, he set racing records in New Zealand and England in his modified cars, and his workshop made munitions for the war effort in the 1940s. Opening a factory in Christchurch has relegated the Irishman Creek workshop to an R&D centre. With a bit more time on his hands, Bill is mucking around in boats, exploring the nearby lakes of Wanaka, Hawea, Tekapo, and Ohau. Returning home after one such trip, Bill and his wife, Peggy, stop on the side of the shallow Ohau River, where Bill remarks that it would be fun to have a boat they could use to explore upstream as well as down.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
37
Bill’s inventive mind quickly goes to work. Over the next couple of years, he tries and discards several ideas involving propellers and airscrews, until he is shown a picture in Popular Mechanics of an American designed and built waterjet unit. Bill and his team quickly fabricate a copy of this “Hanley Hydrojet” unit and install it in a 12-foot-long plywood boat with a 100E Ford engine. It is not highly successful, but it is an improvement on his previous attempts and Bill finally feels that he is on the right track. He experiments with this boat on the Irishman Creek dam and water race before testing her proper on the Waitaki River. But with a top speed of only 11 mph, Bill’s boat barely makes headway against the current, and there is still an issue with the jet’s outlet and steering elbow extending below the hull, where it is vulnerable in shallow water. So Bill and his team make a slight modification to the jet, moving the outlet and steering directly out the transom above the waterline. Suddenly, the boat’s speed increases to 18 mph, she can turn on a dime and, most importantly, she can travel through waterways that are mere inches deep. It is Easter 1954. With this boat in tow, Bill sets out to explore further afield. “Mad” Bill Hamilton becomes a regular sight as he skims past farmers in their fields and travellers on the road to Queenstown, and very soon others want to share in this adventure. Bill and his team manufacture six more of his “Quinnat” jet unit that they sell across the country, but feedback from their customers highlights several problems with the jet’s design, particularly the noisy bevel gear that converts the horizontal drive shaft from the engine into a vertical shaft to turn the centrifugal pump. So Bill hires a young engineering graduate and sets him the task of refining the jet unit design to make it more reliable. George Davison’s idea is to flip the pump on its edge, direct-driving it from the engine and using an intake duct to feed water into the impeller. Thus, the “Rainbow” jet unit is born, of which about one hundred are manufactured.
38
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
"Suddenly, the boat's speed increases to 18 mph,she can turn on a dime and, most importantly, she can travel through waterways that are mere inches deep." But it still isn’t perfect, and many of the new breed of jet boaters find themselves restricted. The high velocity but low volume of the water able to be pumped by the Rainbow unit is only suitable for small, light-weight boats and relatively low power engines, and keeps jet boaters from reaching their full potential. George’s solution in 1956 is to develop a multi-stage axial flow pump— essentially two impellers mounted on a shaft inside a tapering tube. The water flows along the drive shaft, increasing in velocity and pressure as it passes through the impellers and stators (curved veins fixed aft of each impeller to remove flow rotation) and exists the outlet nozzle. Axial flow means it was able to pump a greater volume of water, so is able to push larger vessels with more powerful engines and at greater speeds. Within a year, threestage “Chinook” jet units are being manufactured and jet boat speeds are in excess of 80 kph.
0.25 AD
The popularity of jet boating really takes off. Thanks to the photography and writings of Guy Mannering and the promotional work of George Davison and jet boat expeditions by Bill’s son Jon to the Grand Canyon, Papua New Guinea, and Nepal, jet boating becomes a world-wide phenomenon. By the mid 1960s, the Hamilton factory in Christchurch has both waterjet and jet boat production lines, and its jets are being made under license in the US, Canada, and the UK.
0.25 AD
Those who don’t own their own jet boat are still able to enjoy the thrill and scenic splendour of jet boating on NZ’s wild rivers thanks to the Melhop brothers from Invercargill, who set up a jet boat tour operation in Queenstown in 1960. Hoping to use the jet boat rides on the Kawarau River to raise money for a youth camp, they soon find the venture so popular that all their profits go into improving the jet service instead of the camp. Herm Palmer, who started off working for Melhops, introduces trips on the Shotover River – founding the famous Shotover jet adventure tour operation. After four years, Herm carries just over 3,000 passengers per annum. Trevor Gamble purchases the business from Herm in 1970 and turns the scenic trip into a thrill ride by using 360-degree turns and close passes on the rock faces that drop into the river. From humble beginnings, transferring his passengers from Queenstown to the river by taxi, Trevor sells the business in 1987 after carrying over 58,000 passengers with two boats. With the Shotover operation now owned by the very successful Ngai Tahu tourism organization and operating with four boats, over 145,000 people enjoy the thrill of one of New Zealand’s most famous waterways. Today, there are numerous businesses operating throughout New Zealand that carry passengers in Bill Hamilton’s jet boats, providing thrills and adventure on many of the wonderful rivers and lakes on offer. A trip to New Zealand is simply not complete without a jet boat experience.
Main town pier, marine parade
+64 3 409 0000
bookings@kjet.co.nz
www.kjet.co.nz
0800 52 92 72
Auckland Adventure Jet has a saltwater jet boat experience that is second to none. If you’re in Auckland, the experience is well worth it, and the view from the harbour is sure to impress. They are safety award winners and have a wealth of knowledge about the area. In the fifty-five years since Hamilton and Davidson developed the jet unit, the term jet boat has come to represent a much larger cross section of the
"Auckland Adventure Jet has a salt-water jet boat experience that is second to none. If you're in Auckland, the experience is well worth it,and the view from the harbour is sure to impress." marine industry. Today’s jet boats are still15-foot-long shingle-skimming river-runners, but they equally 200-footlong supply boats operating well beyond territorial waters. Both use waterjets whose design can be traced back to the original developments made by Bill Hamilton and his team. But while the smaller boats use a single jet unit driven by an engine producing a couple of hundred horsepower, the larger boats typically have four jet units with 1 m diameter impellers, driven by 3500 hp engines. The story of Bill Hamilton and the development of the HamiltonJet waterjet is typical of many of NZ’s
TM
RESERVATIONS ARE ESSENTIAL Shotover River Base, Arthurs Pt, Queenstown Phone: 0800 SHOTOVER Email: reservations@shotoverjet.co.nz
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
41
"A trip to New Zealand is not complete without a jet boat experience."
A pinch of
ADRENALIN and a heap of natural beauty 0.25 AD make this..... the Best Jetboat Ride
EVER!
• Journey deep into Fiordland National Park. • Travel down the Upper Waiau river to beautiful Lake Manapouri. • View 3 actual Lord of the Rings film locations. • Enjoy the peace and tranquillity of Lake Manapouri and its snow capped mountains. • Stop to maybe see brown or rainbow trout in the crystal clear water. info@luxmorejet.com
www.luxmorejet.com
pioneering icons. Isolated and selfreliant, these innovative Kiwis turn their own personal interests and needs into commercial success, inspiring many others along the way. The company that Bill Hamilton founded in 1939 is now the international leader in waterjet propulsion technology. With over 300 employees and 50,000 waterjet units in operation, HamiltonJet exports over 98% of its production to more than 50 countries. Its products are used in a wide variety of work and patrol boats operating both in inshore waterways and offshore. Sir William Hamilton died in 1978. Did he have any idea his first humble little jet boat would be the catalyst for a multimillion-dollar international business? That it would be the forerunner of jet boats carrying hundreds of thousands of tourists on NZ rivers every year— many of them rivers he himself was the first to jet boat on? That it would bring together people from all walks of life to form the New Zealand Jet Boat Association – one of this country’s strongest recreational clubs and a major advocator for protection of NZ’s natural waterways?
N I L A N E ADRMPING PU TION! AC Auckland Adventure Jet is the very first purpose built Sea Jet of its kind, for New Zealand, to offer the ultimate thrill ride on Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour. The ride is 35-40 minutes and trips depart every hour.
0.25 AD
What you can look forward to is: • High speeds in excess of 50 knots. • Sweeping fishtails, spins and power breaks. • A fast and fun adventure for the thrill seeking traveller. • A low impact ride for comfort and safety, catering for all ages. • Our 23 seat grandstand layout which means that everyone gets a great view. • Sun glasses, ponchos and life jackets for the duration of the trip. Just bring your sense of ADVENTURE, an adrenaline rush you won't forget!
Probably not. But if he did, he would have modestly taken it in his stride and given credit to all those others who shared his passion, who took his simple idea and made it into something more. As he once said, when asked about his successes, “Well, I had such a grand team of chaps with me.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
43
Northland
The Seven Natural Wonders
of NORTHLAND
Northland
I’m excited to start my journey around Northland, the ‘top’ part of New Zealand. I’m off in search of some of the unique geological formations, ancient fossils and aesthetically beautiful landforms that I heard were within easy reach of the Twin Coast Discovery Highway which heads north from Auckland around both coastlines of the north.
M
y first port of call is the Matakohe Kauri Museum, about an hour and a half’s journey northwest of Auckland on the edge of the vast Kaipara Harbour. Although not a natural wonder in itself, this award-winning museum is the best place to learn about New Zealand’s giant kauri trees and their related industries. The first European traders on these shores came to cut kauri for masts and spears and later for shipbuilding and fine furniture. Kauri trees bleed an aromatic gum that was dug from the land and exported to make varnish, linoleum and decorative pieces. There are so many exceptional displays and dedicated galleries that I spend a good
44
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
couple of hours here before continuing my journey to unearth the treasures of the Kaipara Harbour, the first on my list of “Natural Wonders.”
Kaipara Harbour
Hokianga Harbour Coming out of the ancient forest, I stop on the edges of the sparkling Hokianga Harbour where, more than 1000 years ago, Kupe and his people were the first to arrive in NZ. Life takes on a slower, more laidback pace in the Hokianga – helped along by the warmth and hospitality of the locals who chat to me as I try my hand at fishing off the wharf.
“Nearby is a 63,000 year old fossilised kauri forest, while inland is the legendary Valley of the Wrecks.” I drive down the Pouto Peninsula which forms the northern side of the entrance to NZ’s largest and most treacherous harbour, the Kaipara, which covers 947 square kilometres at high tide. The harbour head is a hostile place. Big waves from the Tasman Sea break over large sandbanks which are constantly accumulating and releasing sand and consequently shifting and changing position, making them quite perilous and known locally as ‘The Graveyard.’ The Graveyard is responsible for more shipwrecks than any other place in New Zealand and the remains of wrecks are still visible under certain tidal and sand conditions.
After lunch at the local pub, I catch the hourly water taxi across the harbour to the giant golden 180 metre sand dunes on the other side. Along with my fellow travellers, I’m given a sand toboggan on board so that when we land beneath the dunes, I can scramble to the top and hurl myself down at startling speed, sometimes shooting across the beach and splashing into the sea. It’s brilliant fun, so I do it again and again until my legs can’t carry me anymore.
“It’s almost unbelievable that these kauri trees have lived for so long. I feel very small and insignificant in their presence.”
Cape Reinga
At Pouto Point I take a walk to NZ’s oldest lighthouse and look out over the Kaipara Harbour trying to imagine what it must have been like to navigate the sandbar in days gone by. Nearby is a 63,000 year old fossilised kauri forest, while inland is the legendary Valley of the Wrecks, a one-time beach transformed by the shifting sands into a valley of secrets. I stay overnight in Dargaville and savour the locals’ stories of shipwrecks and buried treasure.
Waipoua Forest
Heading up the Kauri Coast, I become enveloped in the Waipoua Forest – the best preserved and largest of the remaining Kauri Forests in New Zealand. This is the domain of Tane Mahuta, the “Lord of the Forest,” who at 51.5 metres is the tallest of these ancient trees and was alive at the birth of Christ. The boardwalk to see this ancestor only takes around five minutes, and longer forest walks to see lesser known trees are available. I opt to take a half hour stroll to see Te Matua Ngahere, the “Father of the Forest,” who was a sapling at the time of bronze-age man some 2500 to 3000 years ago. It’s almost unbelievable that these kauri trees have lived for so long. I feel very small and insignificant in their presence.
Next day I’m up bright and early to start my drive to Cape Reinga at the very top New Zealand. I want to get up to Kaitaia to catch a bus tour; I’m told the bus trip is a great way to see the top of the north as we get to travel along Ninety Mile Beach, which I can’t do in my rental car. This magnificent beach arches in an unbroken stretch of white sand for some 88 kilometres and is flanked by the Aupouri Forest, a Narnia-like place where bands of wild horses roam free. We see them nibbling on dune grass, but they take off as our vehicle approaches. At last we reach the end of the road at Cape Reinga and walk down to the wind-whipped lighthouse to take each other’s photos. Here, the Tasman and the Pacific meet, colliding in a fit of fury and spitting salty spray as high as 10 metres into the sky. I’m told that on some days the seas are two distinct colours, one green and one blue. The interpretation signs at the Cape tell me that Māori believe the spirits of the dead leap off this headland and descend down the roots of an ancient Pohutukawa tree into the underworld to begin the voyage back to their final resting place in the ancestral homeland of Hawaiki. The tree is believed to be about 800 years old and is said to have never blossomed.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
45
46
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Wairere Boulders Come morning, I’ve decided to divert from the coastal road and take State Highway 1 through the winding, bush-clad Mangamuka hills, as I want to visit a boulder valley near the village of Horeke. This unique geological formation, thought to be 2.8 million years old, was formed by a lava flow which turned into a layer of thousands of fluted basalt boulders, some up to 30 metres high, flowing down the valley. The unusual ‘fluting’ is caused by erosion and the acid effect of ancient kauri trees releasing tannins into the soil. I take the loop walk around this valley of boulders, now an eco-park, which leads me over, under and around these basalt giants and takes around an hour and a half.
The Bay of Islands
“Named by Captain Cook in 1769, the Bay of Islands is a natural harbour with several arms which extend into the land.” Best known of the destinations in Northland, the Bay of Islands (only three and a half hours from Auckland) is definitely on my list of natural wonders and it’s easy to see why. This marine wonder world comprises 144 islands, with sheltered bays and secluded beaches. Named by Captain Cook in 1769, the Bay of Islands is a natural harbour with several arms which extend into the land. To really appreciate the sheer volume of Islands, the abundant marine life and the beauty of this aquatic playground, I first had to find my sea legs and hop aboard a boat. I chose to go day sailing, but I could equally have gone on a jet boat, half day or overnight cruise, hired a kayak or a Jetski. My day was perfect, sailing around the inner islands spotting little blue penguins and dolphins along the way, with an idyllic island stopover at lunchtime. This is one of the best places in New Zealand to view wild dolphins and has a resident dolphin population estimated to be 500 strong. I was amazed that the skipper and crew knew many of the dolphins we saw by name and could tell us a little bit about them! The real excitement came when we found a pod that weren’t feeding and didn’t have babies with them, so we could plunge into the pristine water and swim with these magnificent creatures.
My last port of call, half an hour’s drive east of Whangarei (NZ’s most northerly city) is the small coastal town of Tutukaka – gateway to the Poor Knights Islands which lie 23 kilometres out to sea. I’m going on a day cruise to get up close to these unique islands which are now a Nature Reserve. Their volcanic origins have formed a myriad of amazing drop offs, arches, walls, tunnels both above and below the water, as well as the world’s largest sea cave – Rikoriko, an egg-shaped chamber which has a volume of about 7,800,000 cubic feet. This area is also a Marine Reserve and reputedly one of the top ten dive sites anywhere in the world (as ranked by Jacques Cousteau). But not being a diver, I’m going to don a snorkel and wetsuit when we anchor at the islands in order to experience this underwater landscape and the extraordinary diversity of subtropical and temperate marine life. The crew members are a wealth of information, telling us about the tumultuous Māori history and the unique flora and fauna of these islands which have been separated from the mainland for tens of thousands of years. Consequently, species have evolved differently here and the insects and plants have grown larger. This is the endemic home of the Poor Knights Lily as well as NZ’s living dinosaur, the Tuatara. The islands are also home to rare seabirds and the country’s largest insect, the giant Weta. The snorkelling’s fantastic. Then after lunch on the boat I get a second wind and kayak around along the sheer rock walls, nose into the caves and watch a thousand Trevally feeding in a frenzy on the surface of the otherwise calm water. One thing I have learnt from this trip is that my list of naturally occurring wonders in this part of the world has grown; I vow to come back again next year.
Tnz Top Pix
Two Luxury Apartments Over The Water
0064 402 6800
www.theboathouseopua.com
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
47
Auckland
Wining, Dining and Ziplining on
Waiheke Island by Olivia Black
Auckland
The great thing about having a Kiwi girlfriend who is getting married is not the wedding itself – it’s the ‘one last hurrah’ girls’ night beforehand. Or in this case, a whole girls’ weekend.
A
nd so it was that I had a genuine excuse to jet off to Auckland a week before the wedding and spend a few days with my oldest friends on Waiheke Island. Waiheke means ‘cascading waters’ in Māori, and it’s also known as the ‘island of wine’ for its 30 or so boutique vineyards and wineries. From the names alone, you start to get an idea of just how idyllic this place is. Sitting out in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf, the island is just a 35-minute ferry ride from the city, and from the minute we breathe in the fresh sea air, we know we’re on holiday. There’s no need for a car on Waiheke Island, with tours and taxis aplenty, but a car ferry also runs if you’re so inclined. Waiheke knows how to make a good first impression – our first snapshot of scenery as the ferry pulls in is just gorgeous. Our merry group of eight is met by Jenny, owner of Ananda Tours and our tour driver for the day, who is taking us on a VIP gourmet food and wine tour, with a splash of local art
48
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
thrown in. With so many vineyards, we’d decided to let the expert choose. First stop is Cable Bay, just minutes up the road from the ferry. Its modern architecture, housing a restaurant, wine bar and cellar door, is perched high on a hilltop, so it’s no surprise that the views are incredible – the stuff postcards are made of. Stepping into the tasting room, we’re surprised by the variety of wines on offer. We swirl and sip Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Syrah, Pinot Noir and a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The Pinot Gris 2011 was the best for me, so out came the purse for the first of several ‘take-aways’.
“From the minute we breathe in the fresh sea air, we know we’re on holiday.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
49
“Cable Bay is perched high on a hilltop, so it’s no surprise that the views are incredible the stuff postcards are made of.” Having decided to incorporate a splash of culture in amongst our tastings, it’s off to the Waiheke Community Art Gallery, just outside of Oneroa Village. Waiheke has a thriving arts scene, with many local artists having garnered success throughout New Zealand and internationally. We’re blown away by the quality of the pieces on display, with everything from exquisite hand-made jewellery and ceramics to superb paintings of Waiheke’s inspirational landscapes. Next stop is Stonyridge Vineyard. In contrast to Cable Bay, Stonyridge has a more traditional, romantic feel; its vinecovered buildings could be straight out of the South of France. Also in contrast to the varietals at Cable Bay, this vineyard focuses on premium reds. Owner and wine maker Stephen White was the pioneer behind winemaking on Waiheke Island and is also the maker of New Zealand’s most expensive wine – the Stonyridge Larose, consistently listed amongst the top cabernet blends in the world. If there’s one thing I love tasting as much as wine, it’s olive oil and – fortunately for me – Waiheke is starting to get a 50
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
reputation for its superb olive oil products. Rangihoua Estate makes extra virgin olive oils on site and the awards have been rolling in – and not just in New Zealand. They were just named among the best 20 olive oils on the planet by Flos Olei 2013 – the Italian guide to the world’s best extra virgin olive oils. Chosen from over 3,000 hopefuls, Rangihoua Estate was the only Southern Hemisphere oil that made the list – high praise indeed from the masters themselves. After generously soaking my fresh bread and sampling it, I can see why it had struck gold. We taste several oils before taking a behind-the-scenes look to learn how they get to taste this good. And with a range of oils, spreads and beauty products to take home, it’s well worth adding on to your tour. Our appetites whetted now, we’re ready for
lunch. Castia Miro is an absolutely gorgeous tapas restaurant in the grounds of Miro Vineyard. The Spanishstyle architecture sets us all to oohing and aahing – it’s no wonder the place is packed, but there’s still a relaxed vibe and plenty of room for a gaggle of girls to tuck into a few delicious gourmet platters. Our rather handsome maître d’ talks us through our last wine tasting of the day before we tuck into the delectable tapas. Good looks aside, the service proves to be every bit as excellent as the food, wine and views. Full, happy and utterly relaxed, our tour comes to an end as Jenny drops us at Breakfast on the Beach, where we’ll be bedding down for the night. As a group, we’d booked three of the four exclusive waterfront guest rooms. And when they
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
51
O E! T E C R N A D ERIE P X E
of the delightful desserts – crème caramel, rolled pavlova and a good old fashioned double chocolate sundae. Awaking in the morning in the serenity of the bay, the water almost completely still, I feel a tinge of sadness I can’t stay longer – a sentiment I’m sure many who’ve stayed here must feel.
0.25 AD
y | 0800 22 74 74 Corner Western Rd & com/rotorua
a, NZ Rotoru SH5, itions Apply | 0800 22 74 74 www.zorb.com/rotorua
say waterfront, they mean it – we are just 30 metres away and our views over Blackpool Beach are stunning.
There are plenty of ways to spend a Sunday on Waiheke Island, and a leisurely brunch overlooking the water would have been my pick. But instead of sipping on a hot cappuccino and tucking into some Eggs Benedict, here I am, about to hurl myself off a platform and go flying high above Trig Hill vineyard.
With a few hours before we’ll have any room for dinner, we kill time Waiheke style. A few of the girls hit the petanque court in the garden, the bride and maid of honour sipped on the chilled Chardonnay they’d bought from Cable Bay, while I lay pleasantly heavy-lidded in the hammock under a tree before a stroll along the beach.
I’m about to experience Waiheke’s newest adventure – state-of-the-art flying fox ziplines that combine a thrilling ride with some spectacular scenery. There are three dual zipline flights where you can fly side by side your friends and family, and each get progressively higher above the ground – gulp.
That night we dine at The Oyster Inn, a new restaurant in Oneroa Village that’s accompanied by boutique accommodation just weeks away from opening. The restaurant is in full swing though, curiosity no doubt drawing in the locals along with us tourists. After our house-baked sourdough – served with Rangihoua olive oil – I savour every mouthful of my delicious scallop raviolo with shellfish bisque. We finish the night off sharing a few
The bride Louise and I are up first, and
“Waiheke is starting to get a reputation for its superb olive oil products.”
“Somehow they’ve got this combination of adrenaline and tranquillity spot on...” shared platters, covering all our bases from New Zealand smoked salmon and caviar topping to Mediterranean meatloaf and roast beef with pepperdews, olives and lemon paprika chutney. I also make an important discovery – the 2010 Rosé Méthode Traditionelle. One of only two 100 per cent Waiheke-grown, bottle-fermented sparkling wines in existence, it was my favourite drop of the whole weekend – and that’s with some stiff competition. our guide counts down for us to take the plunge from the first platform. A last check of the harness and we’re off. Louise is squealing like a schoolgirl and I, for some reason, get the giggles, the adrenaline winning out over fear. Creating dual ziplines was a very smart move – watching your flying buddy squealing, shrieking and yahoo-ing is part of the fun. The other girls follow, making plenty of noise and flapping their arms and legs about like children. The next two ziplines are noticeably higher, but by now we’re pumped up and rather impressed at our own bravery, so although they’re a little scarier, they’re also more fun. A tip: make sure you look out, not down. Not only does it keep the stomach lurching at bay, but you’ll really appreciate
the absolutely around you.
breathtaking
scenery
After the excitement of the ziplines, we’re back on terra firma as our guide leads us through the lush native bush – luckily the boardwalks and walkways make it easy on the legs for those still a little shaky. Surrounded by native trees, ferns, streams and birdlife, it’s an enjoyable walk, and somehow they’ve got this combination of adrenaline and tranquillity spot on. I’d gladly give up my Eggs Benny again. We finished the day at Peacock Sky, named so for sharing its estate with a flock of wild peacocks. Although the vineyard’s Tasting Room offers food and wine matching created by the owners, we opt for a few
Heading back to the ferry terminal that afternoon, it feels like we’ve packed so much into one weekend and yet somehow we’re totally relaxed. It might only be a ferry ride from the city, but it truly feels like another world away. It took a pre-wedding girls’ weekend for me to discover Waiheke and now I know I’ll be back. But next time, I won’t need any excuse.
Auckland
Revisited by Gary Cody
It had been six years since I spent any time in Auckland City, New Zealand’s largest city and arguably the most vibrant and exciting place in the country. The changes, including new activities, adventures, shops, cafés, bars, and restaurants, were so refreshing and interesting that I really didn’t have enough time to take in the whole place, giving me another reason I am looking to return. But any excuse will do.
B
eing picked up by what I would call Auckland’s number one chauffeur service was a great start to my few days in the Big A. Platinum Chauffeur Drive, or PCD as their branding indicates, picked me up at Auckland Airport and whisked me into the Hilton on the Viaduct with consummate
ease. The new Audi A8 was a dream; there were more facilities in the back than a firstclass airline cabin. Russell, my driver, was pleasantly chatty and knowledgeable as to what was happening in the big city. The celebrities and diplomats (who had to remain anonymous) were a mixed bag, according to
Russell. He had chauffeured for rock stars, prime ministers, actors, and royalty. Who was I? Pretending is fun. The Hilton arrival was pleasant and efficient. The room was splendid, poking out over the harbour on the north-eastern side of the magnificent shipshaped building. I really felt like I was at sea, with ferries and other vessels slowly passing my room. Of course, what would one expect from Hilton but all the trimmings? They were there and then some. Room service was efficient and nothing was a problem for any of the staff. They really made me feel part of the place right from the initial check in. The highlight of my Hilton experience was a seat in Fish Restaurant on the first floor of the property. Chef Shane Yardley showcased the finest New Zealand ingredients and, where possible, included the very best
54
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
sustainable organic produce. My entree of seared Atlantic scallops with caramelized turnip purée and orange parsley sauce was epic. It was cooked to perfection and presented in a way that wasn’t over the top, yet tempting beyond belief. A bottle of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc complemented this great dish so nicely; I was off to a great start. But wait; there’s more. The main, pan-fried snapper fillet with cauliflower purée and pancetta sautéed Brussels sprout leaves, was a mind blower! In all my travels, I have never devoured such a wonderful seafood dish. Shane really knows how to prepare New Zealand’s seafood well. There were other mains available, such as some New Zealand beef, but my choices that night were superb. The view out over the harbour was amazing, and the service was as good as one could imagine. Congratulations Fish Restaurant: my meal was faultless and exciting, to say the least. The next day, I awoke to brilliant Auckland sunshine and a blue sky; it was a day where the only wheels used would be two. I headed off to Fullers Ferry terminal, located virtually right beside the Hilton and off to Devonport, a mere fifteen-minute crossing of the busy harbour. Pauline Baker, owner of Magic Broomstick Tours, met me on the other side. A Segway is as far from a broomstick as one can get. After a twenty-minute lesson, the group and I were off on a tour around the foreshore of Devonport and an ascent up Mount Victoria. This volcanic crater is extinct and offers magnificent 360° views of Auckland, the Harbour, Waiheke, Rangitoto (another extinct volcano), and the North Shore.
“The pan-fried snapper fillet with cauliflower purée and pancetta sautéed Brussels sprout leaves was a mind blower! In all my travels, I have never devoured such a wonderful seafood dish.” www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
55
“Firmly anchored in the generous traditions of Kiwi hospitality, Jack Tar offers a bar fully stocked with cool draught and bottled beers, fine wines, fresh juices, and quality spirits.” With our cameras clicking, we all had a great fossick around the World War II emplacements with ongoing commentary from Pauline. After about an hour and a half, I returned across the harbour refreshed and now a proud Segway rider. Lunch saw me wander over to another new area: the Wynyard Quarter. In August, 2011, Waterfront Auckland opened new public spaces, restaurants, and a tram loop in Wynyard Quarter, along with a new bridge linking the area to the Viaduct. This development has transformed the way Aucklanders are using this part of their city. It was a leisurely stroll over the bridge to this new area, and with a hunger up, I tried to sort out an eating place after a strenuous morning. As it was beer o’clock, I decided on Jack Tar just behind the Auckland Fish Market on Jellicoe Street. Jack Tar is a new gastropub in a dramatically updated postwar goods shed. Firmly anchored in the generous traditions of Kiwi hospitality, Jack Tar offers a bar fully stocked with cool draught and bottled beers, fine wines, fresh juices, and quality spirits. They also feature a hearty menu with a selection of tasty share plates and great mains ranging from gourmet pizzas through to traditional steaks, seafood, lamb, and vegetarian plates – superb quality with a contemporary twist. I settled on a char-grilled vegetable penne that really found the spot, especially paired 56
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
with a bottle of Little Creatures bright ale, which brought back fond memories of the Little Creatures Brewery visit I enjoyed in Fremantle a couple of years ago. I enjoyed wandering around the quarter, admiring family attractions along with a mix of retail and some sculptures. My next stop was Britomart. Has this place evolved! It recently won a number of achievement and architectural awards, and it is not hard to see why: the area is beautifully designed and easy to wander round. The retail stores, restaurants, and bars are varied and offer shoppers and those looking for a bevvy and snack options that are varied and exciting. I missed Art at Britomart (it was scheduled to take place later in the month) but I did get a healthy dose of culture by heading to the Auckland Art Gallery. There, I enjoyed “Who Shot Rock and Roll,” an exhibition of photographs taken in 1955–2012 by some of the world’s best photographers, including George du Bose, Pattie Boyd, Dennis Hopper, and Jerry Schatzberg, to name just a sprinkling. The exhibition featured images of Hendrix, the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, the Yardbirds, Elvis Costello; the list goes on. It really was
absorbing, so much so that I spent well over an hour just in that exhibition. Getting carried away in one exhibition had me neglecting a lot of the other gems housed in the gallery; with over 15,000 pieces on display, you really need time to dedicate to seeing everything. The building has been extensively and very tastefully renovated. This wonderful piece of Auckland and New Zealand history is a credit to those who have turned it into a wonderful attraction that will last for many years to come. It was only a ten-minute hike back to the Hilton, where dinner in my room that night was a must. Afterward, I enjoyed a long soak in the bath, a nice fresh robe, and room service. Bliss.
EXPERIENCE NEW ZEALAND In Stylish Luxury
w w w.pcd.co.nz
reser vat ions@pcd.co.nz
| PRIVATE DRIVER | AIRPORT & HOTEL TRANSFERS | BUSINESS & CORPORATE | PERSONAL TOURS & SIGHT SEEING |
+64 9 354 3777
Coromandel
Surfing and Cycling
in Coromandel
Coromandel
I’m slicing the paddle of an eleven-foot stand up paddling (SUP) surfboard through light chop to Whenuakura Island off Whangamata while my guide, old time local surfer Pete Murray, hollers support up ahead.
Y
ou’re a natural,” Pete encouragingly calls (I am not so much a natural as a goof, at least when it comes to surfing, but never one to turn down a compliment). We’re headed to the bush-clad island also known locally as Donut Island, located forty-five minutes east of Whangamata beach. The light onshore breeze is providing a bit of a workout, but I’m in expert hands with Pete, who took to stand up paddling years ago when his body started getting a bit creaky for conventional surfing. Approaching Whenuakura, we pass three of Pete’s local surfing mates who have put down their tradesmen tools for the day to load their own SUP boards with freediving gear. Everyone seems to know everyone in this small surfing community, and one of the guys waves at us before plunging out of sight to chase a fish. He still hasn’t surfaced by the time we negotiate a rocky outcrop to the back of the island. Pete briefs me on what to do before directing me into an arched tunnel that leads into the heart of the island. The light on the water turns it a luminous
58
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
blue and the temperature drops as we stroke into this ring-shaped island, alive with birdsong from the trees above. It is magical. The colour of the water changes to a pale shade of green as we arrive at the lagoon, formed by a large collapsed blowhole. It is used by locals as a place to swim, kayak, snorkel and, for some, Pete tells me, spend a quiet moment paying respect to lost loved ones. Up until the mid1980s, the island was home to a healthy population of tuatara. Paddling over barely submerged, pink-hued rocks, we let the tide wash us up onto a tiny beach to take in the magnificence of it all. Pete points to the other caves that can be explored on lower tides, and I regret not taking more time to explore the lagoon. But I can’t complain, since back in Whangamata there’s a Harley Davidson with my name on it, and it’s a faultless Spring day for a ride.
Coromandel
“The light on the water turns it a luminous blue and the temperature drops as we stroke into this ring-shaped island, alive with birdsong from the trees above.�
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
59
Marina Park Apartments
Safely back on land an hour later, Pete delivers me back to his shop behind Whangamata’s main street, where leather-clad biker Baz Howie of Bularangi Motorbikes is waiting. With my mind still floating in ocean-mode, I climb on Baz’s Harley and tear off down the mainstreet of Whangamata. Baz is taking me to Whiritoa, a sleepy coastal beach town to the south, where he’ll tell me legendary stories of the Maori who once fought over this stunning place.
“It may be a cliché, but on a Bularangi Harley Tour, the journey is the destination.”
The roads are winding and driving over them is like a dance. I have never danced with a bearded biker in leathers, but Baz is an accomplished professional and a wonderful guide.
Marina Park Apartments are conveniently located just a two minute walk from the local shopping centre. Adjacent to the marina, each of the 1,2 & 3 bedroom apartments is fully self contained with spacious open plan living, private balcony/patio, fully equipped kitchen, laundry. Other features include a well equipped gym and a heated swimming pool and spa. With shops, restaurants and outdoor activities all easily accessible, these stylishly appointed apartments are the ideal choice for comfort and convenience.
arina ark partments
He makes me feel completely at ease as we lean into the corners. “You’ve chosen the best time of year to come for a ride!” he shouts into the wind. There are very few other vehicles on the road, and the beach at Whiritoa is deserted. The beauty of travelling by motorcycle is that it puts you in the environment, as opposed to just driving through it. It may be a cliché, but on a Bularangi Harley Tour, the journey is the destination. That evening, I base myself at the
Marina Park Apartments on the marina in Whitianga to make the most of the range of restaurants in the town each night and explore the more isolated beaches of Otama and New Chums to the north by day. New Chums is located over the northern headland of Whangapoua and is renowned as one of the world’s top ten beaches, according to a British newspaper. My walk around the headland to the south end, known as Opera Pt, is amazing: I spot a huge wood pigeon in the trees and find a
“Lying in the waters of the spring, I find myself asking, ‘How can this place still exist in the middle of suburban Whitianga?’” rope swing over a white sand harbour beach at the end of the track. After all the activity of the previous days, it’s only fitting to spend a day of rest in Whitianga’s Lost Spring. Lying in the waters of the spring, I find myself asking, “How can this place still exist in the middle of suburban Whitianga?” While I’m soaking in the atmosphere,
owner Alan Hopping stops by to check the temperature is agreeable to everyone and we get to talking. He landscaped this thermal paradise himself. Tall stands of nikau palms that, as New Zealanders know, take many years to mature, were rescued from a forestry operation that planned to burn them off. They are among the elements that give visitors to the Lost Spring a sense of being immersed in an untouched natural wonderland. Refreshed by the thermal waters, I now feel ready to get back on a bike, this time pedal-powered, on the newly-opened Hauraki Rail Trail on the other coast of the Coromandel. It’s a couple of hours’ drive over the mountain range north of Whitianga, through Coromandel town and
down the Thames Coast Road to reach Paeroa, one of several starting points for the trail. The trail is part of Great Rides New Zealand and can be booked through the official Hauraki Rail Trail website as a one day or three day guided tour. Of course, you can create your own itinerary, head off without a guide and hire bikes at several places in town. I prefer to park my brain and let someone else do the running around, and our rail trail guide is very good at it. Booking a tour means my baggage is transported to my accommodation, a bus is waiting for me at journey’s end, and I can pretend I’m a kid while the grown-ups take care of everything.
We cycle off from the Information Centre in Paeroa – a town synonymous with the sugary soft drink Lemon & Paeroa. Apparently, people call the town promotions office from all over the world wanting to place orders for soft drinks. Paeroa has tried remarketing itself as the Antiques Capital of New Zealand, since it has an abundance of quirky treasures and retro evening wear in its shop windows. I’m joined by a friend from Auckland for the day, and if I was with a larger group of girls I’d be tempted to make us stop and buy a ball gown to wear on the trail. The air gets progressively more ‘rural’ as we head down quiet country roads under a wide blue sky toward the Karangahake Gorge. Meandering alongside the Ohinemuri River, it’s the flattest cycle trail in the country and the gravel is small –
“The roads are winding and driving over them is like a dance.” important information if you’re like me and don’t have a cyclist’s hardened bum. Seven kilometres doesn’t sound like a very long way for a full day ride, but we could have easily stayed a night on the trail and made it a two day ride. But then, I am a talker and I have fun chatting to other cyclists and locals like 83-year-old Bill Wills. Bill lives alongside the trail and takes time to explain that the route will be extended in the next six months, allowing you to cycle to Waihi on the east Coromandel. Roadwork doesn’t usually hold my interest for long, but Bill is engaging. He hasn’t cycled the rail trail but rode this route as a commute to work for the Ohinemuri County 62
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Tnz Top Pix
Coromandel Coastal Walkway Tour Departs Coromandel town - Full day tour with 10km (3-4 hour) walk.
07 8668175
info@coromandeldiscovery.co.nz www.coromandeldiscovery.co.nz
Accommodation, Cafe, Bar & Restaurant
www.Kiwiretreat.co.nz 0800TANGIARO
1299 Port Charles Road, Coromandel
www.coastalcampers.co.nz
Ph 64 7 8660509
wood-fired mushroom pizza, salad, and wedges at the Falls Restaurant – well worth the five-minute uphill climb up the road off the trail. Owners Emma and Brad Walters have seen a huge increase in customers since the rail trail opened and would probably see more if travellers didn’t have to change up a gear, so they’re planning a track through their property straight from the trail. Council, hiding his pick axe in the bush at the end of each day. We wave goodbye to Bill and dismount for a coffee before walking the historic trails at the Karangahake Gorge. It’s called the ‘windows walk’ because of the viewing windows carved out of narrow mining tunnels in the steep gorge. Here you can marvel at the work conditions and environmental crimes that were commonplace 130 years ago. I decide it would be rude not to stop and sample a glass of wine at the Ohinemuri Winery after our walk. The conversation with
Bill adds perspective to the next leg of the journey, over the Ohinemuri River Bridge 2 through the one-kilometre Karangahake tunnel, built as part of a crucial road-rail line linking both sides of the gold-rich Coromandel range. The poor blokes who built this tunnel encountered heavy rock, water seepage, and numerous slips, and I wonder how they would’ve felt to know that, one hundred years on, it’s all for a slightly tipsy tourist and her friend to marvel at while cycling from a winery to lunch.
Good food, wine, competent baristas, and comfortable bike seats are the all-important economic drivers on the Coromandel nowadays. Chef Brad won the Monteith’s Wild Food Challenge and Emma has set up a B&B with a cabin that sleeps two. It’s these small, locally-operated businesses that allow for lovely one-on-one experiences with locals who are generously open to sharing their Coromandel homes with the rest of us, and which will keep me coming back to share this local knowledge with my friends.
We eat a late lunch of blue cheese and www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
63
Bay of Plenty
White Island
NZ tRAVELLER by Katie Cox
Coromandel
Today I took a boat to the moon. It only took an hour and half and on the way home I took a nap and stopped for an ice cream.
F
rom the coastline of Whakatane, White Island appears on the horizon as a stereotypical volcano, the kind you may have doodled in schoolbooks as a kid. With its classic conical shape and plume of natural gases rising high above the crater rim, it seems to warn, “I am still breathing.” I was filled with excitement as I climbed aboard our vessel, the PeeJay5, and was both surprised and intrigued by my travelling companions to this unusual and adventurous destination. On my right, a middle aged couple in their 60’s with walking sticks, tramping shoes and cameras at the ready; on my left, a family of three with a five year old and one on the way; and across from me, two friends in their early twenties wearing skinny jeans and Converse, attached to their iPhones. As our boat drifted down the Whakatane River through the harbour entrance into the Pacific Ocean, our trip to the island began. We passed little blue penguins, a pod of travelling dolphins and a rare blue shark sunning himself on the surface, one of the rarest sites I have ever seen on the water. The middle aged couple were snapping wildly, cheers of excitement roared
64
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
from the five year old encouraged by mum and dad, and the young hipsters never saw a thing, keeping their eyes and attention firmly glued to playing games on their phones. As we drew nearer to the island, intricate details became visible: trees standing like lone toothpicks, seemingly charred
to within an inch of their lives; bright yellow cliff faces; rusted ruins where buildings had once stood. It looked as if we were arriving at the moon, to find an abandoned space station centuries-old. Being issued with hard hats and a gas mask did nothing to dispel the illusion, and added to the
“As we drew nearer to the island, intricate details became visible: trees standing like lone toothpicks, seemingly charred to within an inch of their lives; bright yellow cliff faces; rusted ruins where buildings had once stood.�
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
65
0.25 AD
“he crystallised earth crunched below my feet, as if to warn, ‘don’t jump, my skin is thin here.’” excitement of the adventure that lay ahead. The middle aged couple were first off the boat, no hesitation there, followed closely by the enthusiastic youngster, so excited about his yellow hard hat that I think he momentarily forgot about the volcano. As we disembarked from the vessel, my senses were overwhelmed by this otherworldly place. The sound of air escaping out of ultra-heated fumarole vents into the atmosphere with a hiss and a roar required me to raise my voice to be heard. Plumes of steam from the centre of the crater and its surrounding vents, rising over
a kilometre into the atmosphere, were absolutely mesmerising and also a haughty reminder that I was standing on a living, breathing volcano. Most would consider this to be quite an adventurous, if not dangerous, activity. The crystallised earth crunched below my feet, as if to warn, “don’t jump, my skin is thin here.” For a moment I was reassured by the warm sun on my skin and a gentle sea breeze which calmed my senses; I drew in a long deep breath only to have my nostrils assaulted from the shifting wind, bringing with it the smell of sulphur and the stinging characteristics of carbon and sulphur dioxide, passing just as quickly as it had come. The tour group of 40 were incredibly
“The crater rim walls towered above the sea, only visible in brief glimpses of clear air pockets through the steam.”
silent as everyone took in this wild landscape and its surrounds. Our tour guide was the first to break the silence, offering a reassuring plan of action if the volcano were to start ‘spitting,’ followed by a very comprehensive narrative that lasted for the rest of the tour. Our group split into four groups of ten as we made our way around the island and toward the centre of the bubbling, boiling mass. Slowly we wound our way around cauldrons of bubbling mud and sand; the crystal clear water springs looked tempting to touch, but we were quickly cautioned by our guide of the thin crust surrounding the spring. “You wouldn’t want to get too close; if the crust gave way you would find yourself standing knee deep in 100 degree centigrade water.” That got the young hipsters’ attention as well as mine. I made up my mind then that I would stick to the beaten path and not stray from the group. The most awe inspiring sights about the
island for me, were the crater rim walls towering 323 meters above the sea, only visible in brief glimpses of clear air pockets through the steam. The magnificent battle scars that gouge the cliff walls, forged over millennia of geological upheaval, added to the majestic beauty of the inner crater rim. Every direction I turned was filled with something else just as intriguing as the last vista. The colours reflecting through natural spring water, the sulphuric crystals glistening in the sun, the misty haze concealing the cliff tops – it really was a journey to Middle Earth, nature’s closest approximation to Tolkien in the Bay of Plenty.
Our time spent on the island was about two hours; it felt like a mere quarter of that. The guides were extremely knowledgeable about the geology, history, and culture of the daring individuals who called this strange island home. Time just seemed to disappear. As we climbed aboard the small tenders to be shuttled back to PeeJay5, I couldn’t help but look back in sheer wonder at the power of New Zealand’s only active marine volcano. Back aboard the ship, I realised for the first time how tired I was. We covered a fair amount of ground on our walking tour, and as much as anything I think sensory overload played a large part in my mental www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
67
The Paciic Apartments | Mount Maunganui
e Ultimate
ACCOMMODATION
Luxury apartments with views from sunrise to sunset offering: • Nightly accommodation • Corporate rates • 1 - 4 bedroom apartments 8 Maunganui Rd, Mount Maunganui stay@thepaciicapartments.co.nz 0800 8 MAUNGANUI (0800 862 864)
+64 7 929 7474 www.thepaciicapartments.co.nz
fatigue. The boat crew hand-delivered boxed lunches and bottles of water and within minutes of finishing, most of the tourists onboard had drifted off to sleep. Full bellies, a day’s adventure, and a calm rolling ocean lulled the five year old, the hipsters, and me into a hazy dreamland.
after as well as a natural sugar hit to keep me fresh for the drive.
Back on dry land and headed north toward Mount Maunganui on the Pacific Coast Highway, I stopped at Julian’s Berry Farm. After a long day of adventure I felt very deserving of a fresh blueberry vanilla ice cream, and was not disappointed. The cool creaminess of my single scoop provided just the texture my throat was
Driving anywhere in New Zealand, you can’t help but notice the saturation of colour. The shades of green on the new growth in the trees and grasses come alive, and the pinks, yellows and oranges of the wildflowers blooming in the sand dunes are fairy-like in appearance. It is my favourite time of year, especially in the Bay of Plenty.
An hour and half later, I arrived at the base of yet another volcano, and a sister to White Island: Mount Maunganui or Mauao, a favourite holiday destination for Kiwis and international travellers alike. The whole of New Zealand is so beautiful, that if this is where Kiwis come to vacation it must be the top of the top. Mount Maunganui is the perfect mix of a quiet beach town and a bustling tourist hub. Lined with white sand beaches, Mount Maunganui is very popular with surfers and sunbathers. As well as surf beaches, the calm waters of Tauranga Harbour make it a favourite spot for young families, kayakers, and picnic enthusiasts who can be seen dotted along Pilot Bay. The Port of Tauranga has become a favourite destination for cruise ships from around the world. A scheduled 85 cruise ships are due to pass through the port this 2012/2013 cruise season, capable of bringing with them 180,000 passengers. The downtown shopping districts of Tauranga and Mount Maunganui turn into bustling city streets during this time. Yet if you want to step away from it all, a stroll up or around the Mount can transport you a million miles away in a matter of minutes.
Fortunately for me, there were plenty of accommodation options available when I arrived. I seemingly was not done with volcanoes for the day, as I chose to stay in the Mount Campground at the base of Mauao, a 232 meter sleeping volcano for which the town is named. This volcano, however, posed no threat to my much needed night’s sleep. The next day would bring more adventures – swimming with dolphins, hiking, and learning to surf. I got a much-needed night’s rest ahead of yet another day of adventure in the Coastal Bay of Plenty.
Tnz Top Pix
www.adventuresail.co.nz
The Mount Maunganui Beachside Holiday Park offers true beachfront accommodation right at the base of Mount Maunganui (Mauao) or ‘The Mount’ as the locals call it. Just a few minutes walk from cafés, restaurants, the Mount Salt Water Hot Pools friendly resort style shopping, shopping and world class, white sandy beaches this is the perfect place for a memorable holiday. We have fantastic boating, diving, fishing and surfing on our doorstep and it’s an easy drive to Tauranga City Centre and top Bay of Plenty attractions. The Mount Maunganui Beachside Holiday Park is wonderful for a family holiday, weekend mini break, romantic getaway for two. 1 Adams Avenue, Mount Maunganui, New Zealand Reservations Freephone: 0800 MT BEACH (682 3224) Phone: +64 7 575 4471 Email: info@mountbeachside.co.nz
Waikato
Waitomo’s Black Labyrinth by Amelia Norman
Waikato
Karl’s voice floats upriver through the echoing dark: “Basically, what we’re looking at is the snot and pooh from a bunch of cannibalistic maggots.”
A
chorus of “Ewww!” bounces off the rock walls either side of me, Mel, Nicole, Sam and I suddenly disenchanted by the mass of twinkling glow worms on the cave ceiling above. Karl’s explanation may not be the most scientific (or the most charming), but it certainly is accurate. “Glow worms aren’t actually worms at all – they’re larvae,” he explains. “The light comes from their waste, and they use it to attract insects. Glow worms begin eating as soon as they’re born. If
70
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
there’s nothing around to eat, the first one to hatch will start eating its brothers and sisters!” Keen to escape the suddenly grotesque glow worms, we switch on our headlamps, slide our bums off the rocks back into our rubber tubes, and continue to float downstream through the Ruakuri Cave. We’re at the beginning of the Black Labyrinth – one of the many cave trips offered by the Legendary Black Water Rafting Company in Waitomo. With
“At three hours in length, the trip allows for the long, hilarious process of wet-suiting up followed by a short, pleasant bush walk and just over an hour’s cave time.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
71
“I recline in my floating rubber tube and tip my head back, eyes to the ceiling. A Milky Way of glow worms stretches out above me.” so many adventures to choose from here – both above and below ground – it was tough to know where to begin my two-day foray into this tiny Waikato settlement. But the Black Labyrinth won me over: at three hours in length, the trip allows for the long, hilarious process of wet-suiting up followed by a short, pleasant bush walk and just over an hour’s cave time – jumping backwards off waterfalls, gaping at glow worms and posing for photos. At the end, a hot shower, soup and toasted bagel await.
Just 15 minutes into the cave, that hot shower seems a long, long way off. “Ready, Amelia?” asks Karl as, standing, I edge backwards with the rushing river toward the top of the waterfall. “Ummm… sure,” I stammer. Holding the rubber tube firmly on my backside I take a deep breath and – ignoring every screaming particle of common sense that I possess – jump backwards, down the waterfall and into the darkness. I land with a scream, a ‘splosh’ and some cheers from my fellow Labryinthers. Looking back, the waterfall seems pitifully short. However, abuzz with our accomplishments, we form a long snake, hooking feet under armpits, and float determinedly onwards. Thankfully, it’s not until later that day that I find out about the eels that reside in Ruakuri Cave. “Ten feet long,” I overhear one guide saying. “Wrapped itself around the guide’s leg,” says another. Had I known this beforehand I wouldn’t be quite so relaxed as I bob downriver in the darkness, blindly grasping what I assume is slimy, jutting limestone and dangling my feet in the cool, rapid water. I probably wouldn’t have dared stop my tube either. “Jump off here!” calls Karl. Four headlamps create a criss-crossing laser show as we all try to master the simultaneous art of slipping off our tube, catching it before 72
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
the others have disappeared, escaped into a secret side cave or paddled off without me. Strangely, I’m unworried by this scenario, content with the tranquil darkness and smooth river. I recline in my floating rubber tube and tip my head back, eyes to the ceiling. A Milky Way of glow worms stretches out above me. Their glittering beauty is accentuated by the black silence and the surreal, serene feeling of drifting through a cave. Paddling with my hands, I spin my tube around, looking back the way we’ve come. Thousands of tiny lights twinkle back at me. I’m floating through outer space. it floats away, getting our footing on the slippery floor and bracing ourselves against the flow of the river. Nestled against the rock wall once again, we look up. Far, far above, through the dripping water that sploshes on to my forehead, I see a light. “That is a tomo,” explains Karl. “’Tomo’ is Maori for ‘hole.’” I knew I was underground. For starters, we had to enter the cave through a nearinvisible gap in the rock that I would never have noticed had Karl not pointed it out. Once inside, the air became thicker and in the cloying darkness I could see the steam puffing from my mouth at every exhalation.
The sound of trickling, then rushing, water filled my ears as I ventured across slippery rocks, further below ground, walking like an old man to avoid the stalactites aiming toward me like upside-down ant hills. All of this told me I was underground; yet when I look up at the shining tomo 65 metres above I’m shocked at how far down we are. My panic is fleeting, warded off by Karl’s call to remount our tubes and float on. With our lights off again, and the river slowing to a gentle meander, the cave is filled with a dense silence, punctuated only by the dripping of water into water. We don’t speak. We don’t touch. For all I know
All too soon, a soft, natural light begins to ripple across the river. It gets gradually brighter, interspersed with the long shadows of stalactites hanging from the cave’s exit. I don’t want the daylight. I want to continue floating gently through the quiet trickling cave with only clusters of cannibalistic maggots to show me the way. Amelia experienced the Black Labyrinth courtesy of Four Corners, and The Legendary Black Water Rafting Company.
Experience the magical Waitomo Glowworm Caves Three of the best caves in New Zealand. Discover magical glowworms by boat in the Waitomo Glowworm Caves. Combine your experience with Ruakuri Cave, see glowworms up-close and it’s spectacular spiral entrance and be mesmerised by ornate cave decorations in Aranui Cave. Or for the more adventurous, become part of the legend with The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co.
Ruakuri Cave
Book now on 0800 456 922 or www.waitomo.com
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co.
Waitomo Glowworm Caves
73
Rotorua
Adventure Comes to Life in
Rotorua Rotorua
As the days warm up and summer begins to make its presence felt, there is one place like no other to make the most of the glorious weather: Rotorua.
I
74
n the centre of the North Island’s volcanic plateau, the region has dozens, if not hundreds, of visitor-friendly ways to wake the body from its winter slumber. For starters, there are 16 sparkling lakes to be captivated by, the scent of pine forest to get you energised and myriad adventure activities to get the adrenaline pumping.
route via Auckland) and settle into the Amora Resort on the edge of picturesque Okawa Bay, Lake Rotoiti. An easy ten-minute drive from the Rotorua airport, the resort has a relaxed atmosphere; we shed our corporate cares, donned swimsuits and within an hour of landing, were basking adjacent the crystal-clear waters of the region’s third largest lake.
As soon as our holidays rolled round, my husband Dan and I were impatient to board our direct flight out of Sydney (cutting several hours off our regular
The cool lake water felt incredibly refreshing as we frolicked and splashed around like kids.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“The region has dozens, if not hundreds, of visitor-friendly ways to wake the body from its winter slumber.�
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
75
“The next morning it was off to a full-on session of serious adventure at Agroventures. First up was Freefall Xtreme, the only thing like it in the Southern Hemisphere.” Jumping on the hotel’s hire kayaks to dry off in the warm sun, we explored the shoreline of Lake Rotoiti, marvelled at a glow-worm cave and watched as a beautiful rainbow trout put up a good fight against a determined fisherman. Dan would have liked to try his hand at trout fishing, especially since a mate of his had recommended local professional guide John Hamill as a great angler and host. It
was a case of “sorry honey, next time” because I had already spotted Tiua, a sleek and stylish 53 foot catamaran moored at the hotel’s jetty – and chartering the vessel for a romantic dinner on board to celebrate our wedding anniversary sounded perfect to me. I grabbed a Pure Cruise brochure, circled my preferred option and popped it under his pillow; he took the hint and did the rest. It was amazing, worth every cent. Slipping away from the jetty at sunset, we sipped champagne and indulged in delicious, fresh NZ food as the wind silently powered us down the lake. Afterwards it was even more romantic, with a moonlight hot soak in the Manupirua Hot Springs, only accessible by boat. Having a rental car meant we became regular customers of the Okere Falls Store just a few kilometres down the road from the resort. Dan was in his element with 76
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
TO E! E R C A N D E I R E EXP
the German beers, and we loved the tree stump seats in the beer garden. Offering views over the tranquil Okere Falls arm of the lake from the front veranda, the café has a laidback feel and a truly sustainable attitude that even runs to a composing toilet. I developed a love for their blueberry smoothies and ficelle rolls. The area is the drop off point for much of Rotorua’s white water rafting activity; once Dan saw that, it went to the top of his list. I admit I was a bit scared when I heard we were going to be rafting the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall – the 7 metre Tutea Falls – but the River Rats team was awesome and we had the most amazing time. We were buzzing for hours; in fact it set me up to throw myself into the adventure activities Rotorua is renowned for and Dan was dying to try.
As OGO was one of his “must do’s,” we headed to the slopes of Mt Ngongotaha, just along from Mitai Māori village where we’d spent an amazing Māori cultural evening on our last trip. Before long we were inside a huge inflated clear plastic sphere (with some water thrown in for good measure) and teetering nervously on the edge of a hill. A gate opened and seconds later we
Corner Western Rd & SH5, Rotorua, NZ www.zorb.com/rotorua
0800 22 74 74
Dan likes to think he’s a bit of an aficionado, so was more than impressed to find such great craft beers on tap, including Rotorua’s own Croucher Beers. He was keen to try the Croucher Pilsner as he’d read about it winning a gold medal at our Beer Awards this year (quite a feat as the Australian International Beer Awards are the world’s biggest). A few more ales followed, so although I became driver for the night, I did manage to sample two glasses of delicious NZ sauvignon. Brew’s pub menu was seriously yummy; Dan had Pilsner marinated ribs followed by beer sorbet while I opted for Pale Ale apricot chicken drumsticks and an espresso stout and chocolate brownie. The next morning it was off to a fullon session of serious adventure at Agroventures. First up was Freefall Xtreme, the only thing like it in the Southern Hemisphere. Be warned: you need to be able to laugh at yourself. Free-flying on a giant wind column with wind speeds of up to 220kph is an amazingly surreal feeling, but it does produce some hilarious if somewhat unattractive facial expressions as the wind morphs your cheeks. Just go with the flow and try the mid-air tricks and
“My husband dealt with my fear by pulling the ripcord, which sent us plummeting down to within what felt like a hair’s breadth from the ground…”
78
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
were careering down the hillside. Trying to stay upright by running, we quickly lost our footing on the wet surface and were slipping and sliding around, getting tangled up with each other. Exhilarated when we reached the bottom, we couldn’t help laughing on seeing the state we were in. It was so much fun we did the H2OGO twice more on different tracks before drying off and heading into the city centre for a refreshment stop at Brew, a craft beer pub we’d heard about.
twists staff suggest; we did - and we came off buzzing! Next up was the world-first Shweeb, a 600 metre long human-powered monorail only found in Rotorua. Billed as the world’s most efficient human-powered machine, you hang in cycling pods from an overhead rail, racing at up to 45kph against the clock. Dan and I slipped into the bullet-shaped pods and lay back, suspended beneath
Tnz Top Pix
ZORB is the original globe riding operation in the World.
E: rotorua@zorb.com P: 0800 22 74 74
www.zorb.com
the two tracks, and raced each other. It was amazing to see how a little leg power created so much forward momentum in the pods; we absolutely flew around the track.
dining restaurant incorporating indigenous herbs and spices. We loved experiencing the new and different flavours, and had a great night.
Google believes that the Shweeb concept could transform the way commuters get around overcrowded cities in the future, and in 2010, invested $1.36 million in a prototype project. After a ride, we could see how the Shweeb’s speed and efficiency could be applied to this sustainable transport idea and can’t wait to see how that develops.
We’d heard some hype about NZ’s only native canopy tour, just recently opened, and decided to check it out the next day. Harnessed up, we tackled the first of six ziplines strung between tree platforms 22 metres above the forest floor. It was a very special experience, one Dan and I would do again for the strong eco aspect alone, the chance to be amidst 500-year-old native trees in an amazingly green forest canopy so unlike our Australian bush, to see and hear a variety of NZ native birds, and to learn from guides who bring the environment alive through their passion. Of course, since we were fast becoming adrenaline junkies, the adventure aspect was appealing, too. The longest zipline, a massive 220 metres, provided us with yet another incredibly exciting, totally different ‘flying”’ opportunity. Grinning like idiots, we soared through narrow openings in the forest sub-canopy and wended our way among giant stands of ancient trees. We even enjoyed breathtaking views of unexplored forest valleys.
The Swoop was next up, and after being attached to a body harness, I started freaking out as we were slowly pulled 40 metres up into the air. I was terrified by the time we reached the top, and tried some deep breathing while concentrating on the great view of Lake Rotorua. Dan dealt with my fear by pulling the ripcord, which sent us plummeting down to within what felt like a hair’s breadth from the ground before swinging out and back in a couple of massive arcs. We were both screaming and the adrenaline was pumping big time as we reached speeds of 130kph. After our big day we felt like we had earned a special dinner, so drove a few kilometers back from our hotel to the Mokoia Restaurant. Part of the Wai Ora Lakeside Spa Resort, we’d read it was NZ’s only fine
Island’s deepest natural freshwater spring at Hamurana or a longer Lake Tarawera tour. Since Hamurana Springs wasn’t far from the hotel, we took that option. The “surfboards” are pretty stable so it didn’t take us long to get the hang of standing up on them and using the extra-long paddle to propel and steer ourselves (mostly) forward. It was a beautiful sunny day, ideal to savour paddling on crystal-clear water up a freshwater stream to a spring pumping out around four million litres of water an hour. We agreed it was the perfect, fun end to a fabulous holiday. Although we didn’t fit in everything we’d hoped, including revisiting the amazing MTB trails in Whakarewarewa Forest we had discovered last time, we’re thinking of heading back for Rotorua’s new ten-day Bike Festival next year. It sounds like a lot of fun, so Dan’s going to check out the www.rotoruabikefestival.com website; we’ll keep you posted.
We fitted in one last treat and another new experience before heading home – stand up paddle boarding. We had the option of a two-hour paddle up to the North www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
79
Eastland ~GISBORNE~
Wine and Spirit
Eastland by Diana Dobson
Gisborne
The lovely rays of early morning peek over the edge of the Pacific Ocean and work their magic on the first city in the world to greet each new day.
I
m standing on the sand dunes overlooking Gisborne’s Poverty Bay. Steaming mocha in hand, I watch surfers along the beach catch perfectly formed glassy waves, while other residents of this very pretty city start to wake up. The horseshoe-shaped bay has a small clutch of homes in one stretch, but is mostly nature at its best. At first glance, it seems there is nothing povertystricken about this Captain Cook– named bay either, and it is possibly one of the most historically significant stretches of coast in New Zealand. It’s where Captain James Cook first made landfall in 1769, and where he unfortunately clashed with local Māori. It’s also where the legendary Horouta waka made landfall around 1350, after an epic journey from Hawaiki. That very special waka is said to rest in the Muriwai in Te Wherowhero Lagoon. I walk along Midway Beach, wondering just what the people on both of those
80
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
journeys must have made of the terra firma they found themselves on. Gisborne still affiliates very strongly with both of those crews. Young Nick’s Head—as named by Nicholas Young aboard the HMS Endeavour—is also known as Te Kuri-a-Paoa (Paoa’s dog). I can see the shape of the dog in the white cliffs. There’s an early morning training session for the surf lifesavers as I wander past Midway Surf Life Saving Club. These are the youngsters who patrol the beaches throughout the summer—I take my hat off to them.
“The inner harbour area has a number of nice looking cafés and restaurants dotted around it, as well as a funky wall made up entirely of tiled children’s self portraits made for the millennium celebrations.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
81
“I walk through the Maia and Kotuku galleries to the studios buzzing with inspiration, creativity, and passion. Paintcovered tables play temporary home to masterpieces-inwaiting.” But for now, in the slight chill of the morning, they are charging out on surf skies. They’re paddling off into the distance, heading to a tiny buoy on the water. Heading back along the beach, I see Kaiti Hill, also known as Titirangi. It overlooks both the bay and the city. Nestled near the bottom is Te Poho-o-Rawiri Marae, a beautifully carved traditional meeting house. I move on past and head to the top lookout. There, I enjoy a stunning view that seems 82
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
to want to end in Chile or some other farflung country. Heading back down the hill, I stop to see the “Crook Cook” statue beside a pohutukawa planted by Lady Diana Spencer.
has a number of nice looking cafés and restaurants dotted around it, as well as a funky wall made up entirely of tiled children’s self portraits made for the millennium celebrations.
The crook Cook is a funny little story in itself: the statue was given to the city by a brewery company, but it’s not actually Captain Cook (as was initially thought); rather, it’s a statue of an Italian sea admiral. The “real” Captain Cook statue is down near the mouth of the Turanganui River at the far end of the beach.
My next stop is the Toihoukura School of Contemporary Maori Visual Arts. It’s part of EIT Tairawhiti and is an internationally recognised indigenous art school. The galleries offer an amazing array of many types of art from all paint media, to ta moko, to installations created by students and international artists. I walk through the Maia and Kotuku galleries to the studios buzzing with inspiration, creativity, and passion. Paint-covered tables play temporary home to masterpieces-in-waiting.
There’s another lookout on the way down the hill that overlooks the harbour and working port. The inner harbour area
“The world has finally caught up with the Milltons, and their internationally lauded wines are found all over the globe.” Next I head to the Tairawhiti Museum, where it is easy for young and old to while away the hours. I am seduced by the exhibits and displays, and I learn more about history than I ever cared to before. I can’t help but laugh out loud at the cheekiness of how some of the exhibits are displayed. I’ve been told that no visit to Gisborne is complete without a wine tour. As Gisborne is the nation’s third-largest growing region, I’m keen to see what they have on offer. The Gisborne Wine Centre organises the tour and we head first to the Millton Vineyards and Winery, just out of town. I need no introduction to this world-class leader of organically produced wines, but am looking forward to the cellar door experience. Established in 1984, the Millton Vineyard was the first in New Zealand to gain certification for organic wine production. People thought founders James Millton (recently made a member of the New Zealand Order of Merit) and his wife Annie were a little crazy: they operated in the cosmic world, doing vineyard tasks by the moon, and they didn’t use insecticides or sprays either. The world has finally caught up with the Milltons, and their internationally lauded wines are found all over the globe.
Spade Oak is the last stop on our tour. It’s a young winery, owned and established by Eileen and Steve Voysey, who did their first release in 2007. Steve’s extensive experience in wine-making—he’s a recognised top-flight wine maker for Indevin and Montana before that—is evident. The chardonnay is their flagship wine, but they are also producing some exciting wines from gruner veltliner and viognier. The Spade Oak vintages are most definitely elegant food wines, filled with layers and textures. Steve’s latest creations are two method traditionnelle wines: a blanc de blanc and a blanc de noir. Both wines are stellar. It’s time to watch the sun set on a stunning Gisborne day. What a cracker place to be treated to some of the best that New Zealand offers while taking a spiritual journey that will last forever in my mind.
I start with an Opou Chardonnay, followed by the cult wine Te Arai chenin blanc, which is regarded as one of the finest examples of chenin blanc outside the Loire Valley in France. The La Cote pinot noir is a delicate delight, and I can’t resist trying the Amrita organic grape juice—pure and precious on the taste buds. A chance to chat to James about his wines adds to the visit. A few kilometres up the road is the Kirkpatrick Estate Winery. It’s a small but select operation. Owner Simon Kirkpatrick offers the 2011 virgin chardonnay, and it’s immediately obvious that the wine is ideal for the summer dinner table, with peach and passion fruit jumping out of the glass. Next is their 2009 reserve chardonnay, and it’s easy to see why this is a fourstar wine. A lovely Patutahi plateau gewürztraminer is followed by their very popular wild rosé. Lunch is an array of local produce including Waimata cheese, Kirkpatrick Estate’s own hummus, roast eggplant dip, dukkah, and olives from their grove, along with a few other treats.
Tnz Top Pix
Motel restaurant Kiwiana indigenous unspoilt beauty www.hicksbaymotel.co.nz
0.25 AD
Ruapehu
From the Mountains to the Sea
Nga Ara Tuhono
Ruapehu
HURUNUI
In February 2009 an idea was born. The idea was to build a network of cycle trails that would not only provide a healthy and enjoyable way for Kiwis and international visitors to see the country, but would also generate economic, social and environmental benefits for New Zealand communities. The brand: Nga Haerenga the New Zealand Cycle Trail.
N
ga Haerenga means “the journeys,” both in a physical and spiritual sense, which is exactly the sort of experience the Mountains to Sea Nga Ara Tuhono cycle trail offers. One of eighteen projects within the New Zealand Cycle Trail network, the Mountains to Sea cycle trail starts on the flanks of Mt Ruapehu, encompassing Tongariro and Whanganui National Parks and following Aotearoa’s longest navigable river to the ocean shore in Whanganui. In 1917, the New Zealand government opened up the Mangapurua Valley on the banks of the Whanganui River for settlement by servicemen returning from the First World War. Access was a two-day journey via riverboat from Whanganui or Taumarunui. The landscape the men arrived in was dense virgin forest and steep gorges, bluffs, and streams. The land seemed impossible to clear. The government at the time had plans to convert this wild and rugged terrain into farmland. In hindsight, it should never have happened. In fact, New
84
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Zealand lost much of its native bush, birdlife, and biodiversity to European settlers forging dairy and forestry industries in the late 1800s and early 1900s. After years of clearing giant native trees, including the magnificent rimu, by hand, the men were closer to realizing their dream. They purchased stock, built homes and brought their wives and children into the valley. Life was simple: they lived off the land, growing vegetables and catching wild pigs, goats, and deer. Initially, the Mangapurua valley prospered: there was a school and a rugby team, the community held local dances, and the women took annual
“Nga Haerenga means ‘the journeys,’ both in a physical and spiritual sense, which is exactly the sort of experience the Mountains to Sea Nga Ara Tuhono cycle trail offers.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
85
Guided Tongariro Walks Guided Rail Trail Cycleway Tours Guided Whanganui River Adventures Guided Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Adrift Outdoors is an outdoor adventure company specialising in guided adventures through the Whanganui and Tongariro National Parks. Based at National Park Village, we are a personal and professional organisation that can tailor our guided adventures to suit individual needs. At Adrift, we have vast experience in working with people of all ages and abilities. We provide adventures for school groups, team building groups, families, and individuals. Adrift provides qualiďƒžed, experienced and personable guides whose sole purpose is to ensure a safe, enjoyable and memorable adventure. For more information about the Tongariro Alpine Crossing contact
ADRIFT OUTDOORS
0800 462 374
Adrift specialise in guiding the Crossing Summer and Winter. Located in the National Park Village and Taupo.
www.adriftnz.co.nz
shopping trips to town. But access remained a problem. The government agreed to erect a bridge across the Mangapurua Stream linking the six-foot-wide Mangapurua Track from Raetihi to the Mangapurua valley. The bridge was designed by the Public Works Department in October 1933. Construction of the bridge started in January 1935 with
aggregate, cement, and steel transported from Whanganui by riverboat. But the new bridge couldn’t save the valley from the economic hardship felt at the onset of the Great Depression. The Public Works Department could no longer maintain the Mangapurua Track and Whanganui businessman Alexander Hattrick stopped his riverboat service. The land was unstable due to the amount that had been cleared. Erosion on the Mangapurua Track meant access was treacherous. With no way to trade, the farmers and their families were completely isolated. One
The best way to explore the Forgotten World • Self-drive rail carts • Four tour options • 24 tunnels • 140kms of railway line
“Day ride options and packages are supported from Raetihi, Ohakune or National Park Village.”
Fast forward to 2012 and the Bridge to Nowhere is just one of the historical highlights on the Mountains to Sea cycle trail.
by one they walked off their land. By 1942, only three families remained, and they were forced to leave as the government closed the valley in May that year. The disappearing roads and fence lines are all that remain of this ill-fated government settlement. The Bridge to Nowhere, almost engulfed by the regenerating native flora, stands as a poignant reminder of the “Valley of Abandoned Dreams.”
It typically takes three days and two nights to ride the 1600 m vertical decent over 200 km. Riders can start the trail from Raetihi, Ohakune, or National Park Village. Day one starts within Tongariro National Park, with a 17 km downhill blast from Turoa (one of New Zealand’s largest ski areas during the winter months), to Ohakune Old Coach Road, famous for the restored and well photographed Hapuawhenua Viaduct. The trail is well marked with
Bookings and enquiries: +64 7 2115297
www.forgottenworld adventures.co.nz
88
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
interpretation along the way. Grade two and three trails are linked by quiet rural road sections. Riders can camp at the Ruatiti Domain or enjoy Boutique farmstay accommodation in the Ruatiti Valley.
follow Cycle Trail maps and signs to your preferred accommodation. There are many access points along the trail that you can use according to your preferences, as well as many self-supported itinerary options.
Day two commences with a short, gradual climb following the Mangapurua Track through Whanganui National Park (established 1986) to the Mangapurua Trig, before descending the 26 km to the Bridge to Nowhere. Load your bikes onto a jetboat for the thrilling 31 km Whanganui river section between the Mangapurua landing and Pipiriki. Camp overnight or stay at a bed and breakfast along the Whanganui River Road.
The best time of the year to ride is autumn; however, trails are available year round. Snow is not uncommon in winter, and during the height of summer, temperatures in the river valley’s can exceed 30° C.
On day three, begin your final ride to the Tasman Sea in Whanganui.
Riders can get to the starting points by car, bus, train, and mountain bike. Ruapehu activity operators can then take care of your logistics and information needs. Several operators provide a shuttle pick up and drop off service for all sections of the trail and other day rides not part of the Mountains to Sea cycle trail.
Day ride options and packages are supported from Raetihi, Ohakune or National Park Village, returning each day to your preferred accommodation. Alternatively, you can plan your journey to start at any of these communities, then
You will need to plan your trip to include personal supplies, water for a day’s riding, and food for the duration of your journey. If self supported, you will need to book transport options, including the river jet boat.
There are several accommodation options along the way; food supplies and cafes are limited to several small settlements. You will need an average level of fitness with above-average off-road bike skills. Be prepared and dress for seasonal weather conditions and don’t forget to check the forecast. Mountain bikes with front suspension are recommended for riding the trail. For further information visit:
www.mountainstosea.co.nz
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
89
Wellington
~Wharekauhau Country Estate~
Say ‘Yes’ to Wellington’s
Wharekauhau Lodge
Wellington
Nestled at the southern tip of the North Island, through winding country roads and native bush, lies Wharekauhau Lodge and Country Estate. Backed by the rolling Rimutaka hills and boarded by Palliser Bay’s raw coastline, the setting is perfectly hidden away for a long weekend escape.
W
harekauhau gives the visitor a perfectly balanced experience of a working farm replete with luxuries and service to rival some of the world’s top hotels and resorts. From the moment we arrived, all details were taken care of by the attentive staff, leaving only time to indulge and explore the farm’s 5,500 acres. A four-wheel-drive trip around the estate and along the coast gave us an insight into the operations of the farm and its rich 180 year history. The spectacular setting is equally matched by the grand design and natural lighting flooding the main lodge, which boasts a sophisticated yet warm and intimate atmosphere. The lush Palliser Room was a personal favourite; the open fireplace and rich mahogany colours made it the ideal space to curl up with a glass of wine and
90
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
a great book from the library. The romantic ambiance and spectacular views provided the place for a perfect proposal earlier in the day, with a ‘yes’ to be celebrated with champagne in the privacy of one of the
lodge’s many beautifully designed rooms. The cottage suites are cleverly dotted around the property, each offering complete privacy and seclusion and all within a short walk of the main lodge. Our cottage
resonated with that home-away-fromhome feeling, with an open gas fireplace, deep sofas, heated marble floors and an extra special touch: homemade cookies, replenished each day.
create rustic, creative, and clean dishes. Wharekauhau sources the majority of its ingredients from its own property, including favourites such as Speckle Park cross beef fillet and of course the famous Texal lamb.
Evenings are certainly the best chance to taste the flavours of New Zealand’s iconic cuisine and wine. The chef successfully brings New Zealand classics and contemporary flavours together to
Both evenings began with a stunning selection of canapés and pre-dinner drinks in the lounge, which we found was a great chance to meet and converse with the other guests. The ever-changing,
four-course gourmet menu followed in the Dining Room where our most memorable course was a rich hot chocolate fondant paired with raspberry sorbet and thai fish sauce. It takes a lot of courage and raw talent to pair together such flavours and create such a stunning outcome, and the lodge pulled it off beautifully. With Martinborough as a next door neighbour and Marlborough just over the straight, the lodge showcases some of the country’s finest wines, always beautifully matched to every course. Wharekauhau Lodge and Country Estate is an experience that leaves visitors eager to return.
“Our cottage resonated with that home-away-fromhome feeling.” www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
91
Nelson
Eco - Conscious Fun at Nelson’s Stonefly Lodge by Tony Orman
Nelson Tasman
Stonefly Lodge, an eco-sensitive yet stylish building, overlooks a panorama of hills and a crystal clear trout river with a backdrop of high hills rising to a glimpse of an alpine mountain. Proprietors John and Kate Kerr found the site several years ago, and were enthralled.
K
ate and I just couldn’t resist it, when we first saw it,” smiles John Kerr. “Look at it!”
John and Kate came from a strong sport fishing background, with nine years spent running the Cape Don Fishing Lodge in northern Queensland where 21 species of saltwater fish made for a saltwater sport fishing paradise. But nine years of tropical heat in Arnhem Land demanded a change to a cooler climate. The couple headed to New Zealand and chanced on the old forestry skid site overlooking the Motueka River. The Motueka River is one of New Zealand’s finest brown trout rivers. The local Fish and Game council says it has “very high numbers of trout.” Yet while the river and its surging, swirling rapids and languid pools will make a trout fisher’s pulse quicken, there’s so much more in terms of outdoors and local culture to explore within a radius of a day’s travel from the lodge. The adventure and activities within easy reach was a major reason why Australians John and Kate chose the site, set in the Nelson region’s Motueka valley in
92
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
the northwest corner of New Zealand’s South Island. Just 45 minutes drive away, down valley near to where the Motueka River empties into Tasman Bay, is the Abel Tasman National Park. One full day activity involves a “laid back” drive down the verdant valley to take a boat cruise, hike forest trails around golden sandy bays lapped by the stunningly clear sea, and then enjoy a sumptuous lunch with fine local wine. Another is to hire a helicopter, fly to a secluded beach, cruise aboard a catamaran, and kayak the forest fringed bays or even swim with seals. The glimpse of the alpine ridge of Mount Arthur tantalisingly suggests a helicopter ride to a mountain top. Recently, a keen trout angler and his wife, quietly celebrating his 75th birthday, were whisked by helicopter to the top of Mt Owen where the movie ‘Lord of the Rings’ was filmed. On a perfect still spring day, the couple lunched in the snow and drank a toast with the lodge’s “Stonefly Rising” methode champagnoise, featuring grapes from a local vineyard. Helicopter flights are a favourite of guests. Stonefly Lodge’s helipad is the closest
to the Kahurangi National Park which embraces Mounts Owen and Arthur plus other peaks. A number of trips taken are into the pristine trout rivers within the park. Trout average a healthy 2 kg
plus and sometimes nudge the weight measure to the magical “double figure” of 10lbs (4.2 kgs). “The close proximity to Kahurangi National Park means affordability is heightened and thus so is the availability of unique experiences to more guests,” says John. Nelson Lakes National Park is another alpine playground just an hour’s drive to the south. There, a water taxi can be taken
“There’s so much more to explore within a radius of a day’s travel from the lodge…”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
93
“The lodge has been designed to be self sufficient in power, with electricity supplied on site by micro-hydro generation, a wind turbine and solar panels.” to the head of the elongated glacial lake overlooked by forested slopes rising to towering alpine arêtes and ridges, followed by a few hours to walk a beech forest trail return. Mt Arthur is another favourite hike for fitter guests. A 20 minute drive and then a two
94
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
to three hour gradual climb to the summit gives a stunning view of layer upon layer of mountain ridges retreating into the distance. Guides are available, and usually advisable. Or how about white water rafting on the Buller River? Perhaps a helicopter trip to Golden Bay and then the beach drive to the South Island’s extremity of historic Farewell Spit that bid adieu to 18th century marinerexplorer Captain Cook? Or take the short walk to beautiful and intriguing Wharariki Beach, one of the region’s hidden gems and a photographer’s paradise. More leisurely is a drive visiting some of the 23 wineries within an hour of the lodge, or a tour of local artisans who paint, make
pottery, turn wood and blow glass. Four golf courses, mostly nine-holes, are within an hour’s drive, one being just 20 minutes away. Those activities and adventures aside, Stonefly Lodge in its own right is a worthwhile experience, as evidenced by visitor comments. One avid trout fly fisherman from Maine USA said, “I came for the fishing, but the lodge turned out to be the real catch.” The lodge has been designed to be self sufficient in power, with electricity supplied on site by micro-hydro generation, a wind turbine and solar panels totally independent of the national grid. “It’s a great feeling to know that the water, wind
and sun are working to keep our property functioning,” says John. Central heating is provided with a log burner. All waste water is treated on site by a multi award winning “Biolytix” system which reduces waste to a quality fit for watering the garden. Twenty four fruit trees, a bio-dynamic garden and poultry for eggs complement locally sourced venison, lamb, beef, fish and scallops. Indeed, “Stonefly Lodge treads lightly on
the environment,” says Kate. The lodge has a warm feeling, enhanced by Kate’s and John’s combined welcoming personalities. One USA couple said it was, “Like staying with old friends who do everything for you!” Or as one Texan couple put it, “Service from the heart. Five star. Food and fishing over the top.” The lodge has an intimate, warm charm with just four double bedrooms, giving a cosy, friendly character and atmosphere.
The menu is a blend of international cuisines, as chef New Zealander Dean Sincock has worked in Russia, the UK, Europe and the USA. Kate says the menu has a trend to French and Kiwi. And the fishing! The Motueka River, visible from the windows in the lounge, is rated as one of the best of New Zealand’s brown trout fly fishing rivers. It is just one of several rivers nearby. A few kilometres upstream, the Wangapeka River, in its own right a very fine trout river, joins the Motueka.
Stonefly Lodge offers the complete package for any fly fishing enthusiast, providing expert guiding and instruction for the novice or experienced fly fisherman.
l Speciages Packaable Avail
The 5 star luxury Lodge on the banks of the Motueka river in the South Island, offers access to world class brown trout rivers, spectacular New Zealand scenery and wilderness activities, all within an hours drive from the Lodge. Heli-fishing in remote pristine backcountry rivers a specialty. For the non fishing person the region offers a wide variety of spectacular tours from hiking, wine tasting, kayaking, and exploring one of New Zealand’s recognised boutique arts and craft regions. Ph: +64 3 522 4479 info@stoneflylodge.co.nz www.stoneflylodge.co.nz SEND FOR OUR FREE DVD
Abel Tasman
“Stonefly Lodge is rated in the top 10 eco-lodges for Australia and New Zealand.” And go downstream a few kilometres and the Baton River chimes in. A mere 15 to 20 minutes’ helicopter flight whisks you into the pristine, wilderness headwaters of the Karamea River and its major tributaries the Leslie and Crow. “We’re right in the middle of some very fine trout fishing,” says John. Nor do you have to be an accomplished and experienced fly fisher to enjoy the area’s offerings. A trout fisher’s beginner’s package of three days culminating in a day’s guided fishing caters for new chums. And success, while not guaranteed, is always a good possibility. One Australian couple caught seven big brawny brown trout on their third day of the beginner’s package. Rates at $550 a night per person compare exceptionally well within the luxury lodge category in New Zealand. Stonefly Lodge is rated in the top 10 eco-lodges for Australia and New Zealand and recently was accepted into the book “Luxury Lodges of New Zealand.” Incentive stays as a bonus for corporate employees also feature.
96
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Ninety per cent of guests are international, and on average are in the 50 to 60 year bracket. Some are younger, some older. One 89 year old had the time of his life, catching five brown trout all over 5 pounds (2.3 kgs) with the biggest a hefty 7 (3.2 kgs) pounder. Sometimes a group or family choose to have exclusive use of the lodge, particularly generations of a family where perhaps grandparents treat their children and grandchildren to a week at the lodge. “So it’s a group 70 to 7 year olds and family fun,” says Kate. Kate and John feel they have found their niche – a place to live, to welcome guests and enjoy life. “This is about lifestyle. This is our home,” says Kate.
Footnotes: Tony Orman is the author of over 20 outdoors books, many to do with trout fishing.
www.stoneflylodge.co.nz Ph: +64 3 5224479 - 3256 Motueka Valley Highway, RD2 Wakefield, New Zealand 7096
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
97
Marlborough
February in
Marlborough by Sarah Lane & Andrea Roberts
Marborough
It has been well documented that Marlborough is consistently the sunniest place in New Zealand. Combine that with the exquisite wines that are produced there and a delicious array of local foods, and you have a perfect short break destination!
F
ebruary is an ideal month to visit Marlborough. Not only is the weather settled and warm, but there is always something to do, namely the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival. This event is the largest of its kind in New Zealand and attracts well over 7,000 people. The festival is always held every second Saturday in February, so we planned our trip to Marlborough around this (we being two wine- and food-loving couples in dire need of a weekend escape).
We departed Auckland on Thursday evening, landed in Marlborough airport after 6pm, and were greeted by Duncan from Neal Shuttles, who whisked us off to our accommodation: Hotel d’Urville, an exquisite 1920s art deco building restored and converted into one of Blenheim’s most exclusive accommodation and restaurant destinations. We checked in and dropping off our bags in two of the wonderfully themed rooms: ours was the Raj room, decorated in rich and warm tones that added to the experience, while our friends had the fun Retro room. A pre-dinner drink was required in the intimate yet bustling hotel bar, and 98
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
we indulged in our first Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Then we headed to the restaurant. The menu at d’Urville is designed and prepared by Maree Connolly, chef extraordinaire. The waitressing staff told us that Maree uses an abundance of local Marlborough produce on her menu, so we chose to order a series of entrée dishes that allowed us to sample a range of local cuisine. We loved the Cloudy Bay Clams! It hardly needs mention, but as you’d expect, we matched all of our dishes with local wines. We were up bright and early on Friday, ready for our day of wine tours, lunch, and a visit to the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre. We started at the Omaka Aviation Centre and were in
“The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival is the largest of its kind in New Zealand and attracts well over 7,000 people.�
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
99
for a real treat: the museum houses a collection like no other and you don’t have to be an aviation buff to enjoy it! The rare memorabilia is worthy of any national museum and ranges from beautifully crafted “trench art” through to personal items belonging to the famous Red Baron himself.
“The Omaka Aviation Centre houses a collection like no other and you don’t have to be an aviation buff to enjoy it!” Next stop was Marlborough wine country. We had mapped our course the night before with the help of the Marlborough wine trail map and booked Duncan as our driver for the day. We had an art buff among us, so we also included a visit to two of Marlborough’s highly regarded artists’ galleries. Marlborough, it seems, has a thriving art industry, with a large number of artists in residence. After Omaka, we headed to Fran Maguire’s gallery in Ben Morven, just a five-minute drive away, conveniently located near Auntsfield Estate, which is Marlborough’s first and oldest vineyard. There, we sampled some delicious Pinot Noir from their range, our host friendly and informative. Afterward, we were feeling peckish, so we stopped at Wairau River Wines for a quick tasting and an amazing lunch. The food was faultless, with the majority of our table ordering the twice-baked blue cheese soufflé. We were fortunate to have the weather gods shining on us (although all the locals we met told us that February is a settled time of the year weatherwise and you’d have to be unlucky not to get a great day) and to make the most of it, we chose to eat outside. Before heading to Renwick, we drove a half-kilometre up the road to Riverlore Gallery, where we were able to view Marlborough artist Joanna Dudson Scott’s landscapes. Joanna uses layers to explore the passes, valleys, and pathways of the South Island. Next stop was Framingham. As we had a Riesling fan in our group, this winery was 100
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
a “must do,” and we weren’t disappointed; its range of Rieslings and other aromatics converted an otherwise red wine-centric group into Riesling lovers. Then we visited Cloudy Bay, where we indulged in some Pelorus sparkling wine. Cloudy Bay now has four in its portfolio, including a vintage, non-vintage, blanc de blancs, and rosé. Then it was back to the hotel for a quick change before being collected by Marlborough Travel and taken to Havelock
pier, where we boarded the Odyssea and embarked on the Twilight Sounds cruise. The Marlborough Sounds are spectacular, and we could easily have spent a weekend just exploring this part of the region. The waters were calm, the sunset stunning, and it felt like we had the peace and beauty of the area all to ourselves. Once again, we enjoyed local wines and cuisine, and we started to get the feeling that Marlborough could easily be defined as the gourmet province.
The cruise was the perfect way to end our day: relaxing in the Sounds, being wined and dined, sampling the delicious seafood straight from the sea, and sipping on the latest vintage Sauvignon Blanc. Saturday, the day of the festival, arrived, and we headed to the closest bus stop in the middle of town and boarded a bus to Brancott Estate, where the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival has been held for over twenty-five years. It was the first
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
101
Escape to
Picton
Boutique Hotel Restaurant & Bar Wine, Water & Wildness need we say more!
0.25 AD
and is the longest-running festival in New Zealand, and it wasn’t long before we could see why. The natural amphitheatre where the festival is hosted is spectacular, with large trees bordering the site on one side, a small meandering creek on the other, and vineyards all around. This is the heart of wine country. The festival is in its twenty-ninth year and is very popular with overseas travellers, a lot of whom, like us, plan their trip to Marlborough around the event. As we approached the driveway leading up to the festival location, we caught a glimpse of the marquees and flags and couldn’t wait to get there to immerse ourselves in the festival. The excitement definitely takes over as the festival atmosphere envelopes you. As we walked through the entry marquee, we received a festival glass and programme, which we instantly referred to and used to plan our day. We were greeted with wonderful sounds coming from the stage, so we headed over to take a seat. First up was the Fashion in the Vines competition. We had all decided to bring our glad rags to Blenheim for the purpose of entering the competition
33 Wellington Street, Picton.
Contact: 03 5735573 Free Call: 0800NZESCAPE www.escapetopicton.com
“We headed over to the Chef’s Table cooking demonstrations to be inspired by some of New Zealand’s most celebrated chefs as they cooked with local produce and shared their recipes with us.” (earlier that day we made a quick stop to Thomas’s in town to purchase some accessories for our outfits). Sadly, we were out-dressed, but had a ball parading our outfits on the runway and being part of the event. Next was the first wine tutorial. We had purchased tickets to the tutorials prior to coming to Marlborough, as these events always sell out. James Healy from Dog Point and Murray Cook, winemaker at Villa Maria, took us through the evolution of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. We were given six wines: a selection of current vintage Sauvignon Blancs, examples from 2006, 2005 and 2007, and some oakaged Sauvignon Blanc, all of which
for Sauvignon Blanc. We were also able to order bottles of some of our favourites to be delivered to our homes following our weekend in Marlborough. The second tutorial was one that the male contingent of our group was looking forward to: the Wild Card Reds. Our hosts for this event included Andrew Hedley from Framingham, Hatsch Kalberer from Fromm winery and Tamra Washington, Chief Winemaker at Yealands Estate. We tasted some very interesting varieties, including Montepulciano, Tempranillo, Syrah, Malbec, and Montepulciano Rosato, most of which were completely new to us and highlighted the quality and potential of these wines.
showed the diversity and depth that this variety has (or so we were told). With our new-found knowledge of the region’s flagship variety, we embarked on our own personal tasting, sampling wines from the small boutique wineries and the bigger companies, including Brancott Estate. We found some very interesting styles and a new love and appreciation
Now that we had learnt about the wines of Marlborough, we headed over to the Chef’s Table cooking demonstrations to be inspired by some of New Zealand’s most celebrated chefs as they cooked with local produce and shared their recipes with us. Matt Bouterey, from Nelson’s awardwinning restaurant Bouterey’s, has worked with chefs such as Marco-Pierre White and Gary Rhodes and treated us to his Regal Salmon Beetroot Rimilax, a cured salmon dish with a twist that tasted amazing!
treats before heading to the main stage to listen to some great Kiwi music. We were particularly impressed with the winning food and wine match: homemade Venison pizza and a glass of Vavasour Pinot Noir. What a combination and taste sensation! Finally, it was time to head back to Hotel d’Urville for a chance to freshen up before we headed into town to continue the celebrations with our fellow festival goers. On Sunday, we slept in and treated ourselves to a full breakfast in the d’Urville restaurant. Afterward, we visited a few more wineries before heading to the airport to catch our flight home. Flying out of Marlborough gave us a true sense of just how expansive are the vine plantings in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley: from the air, we saw a sea of green extending from one mountain range to the other. But as our vacation proved, Marlborough is a stunning region with so much more to offer than just a wonderful weekend sampling a wide range of local wines: Marlborough also offers spectacular gourmet cuisine, some awe-inspiring scenery, and myriad outings to suit everyone.
Filled with enough food and wine knowledge to impress all our friends at home, we visited a number of food sites and purchased a selection of culinary
WHAT IF
YOU DISCOVERED THE WINE THAT DISCOVERED MARLBOROUGH?
Cellar door open: 10am to 4.30pm daily Wine Experiences 11am and 2pm daily Restaurant open: 11am to 3pm daily (Closed all public holidays) BRANCOTT ESTATE HERITAGE CENTRE
180 Brancott Road, RD2, Blenheim, 7274, Marlborough Phone +643-5206975 | Email: heritagecentre@brancottestate.com | Website: www.brancottestate.com
Welcome to the home of Brancott EstateTM wines, the original Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Overlooking the stunning vista of Brancott Vineyard you can enjoy wine tasting, great local cuisine and the opportunity to discover our wines through unique wine experiences.
West Coast
West Coast
Wonderland by Chris Birt
West Coast
HURUNUI
Any time of the year is the right time to visit the scenic and adventure wonderland that is the West Coast of the Southern Alps.
E
ach of the seasons brings distinct differences to the landscape and each presents its own range of activity. That’s the thing about the West Coast – no one season is like that which has preceded it, or that which will follow. Like the ‘Coasters’ themselves, the activities adapt to the seasons.
As spring begins to give way to summer, the face of the West Coast changes. The snow cover that provided stunning picture-postcard scenes during the winter retreats into the Southern Alps, and the deep rich hues of the rainforest intensify. Then there are the rivers, their colour turning from the chocolate brown often seen during a fresh rain, to deep turquoise. Just magic!
Summer on the Coast is the time when the locals, and visitors from around the world, come out to play. And there is infinite opportunity to do so, be it for a sedate, passive journey through this ribbon of lush green forest and blue seas, or a wild ride of adventure from one end of the region to the other. The West Coast is well served by transport operators, with shuttle and scheduled coach services in and out. But for this particular pre-summer trip, I’ve opted to take on one of the world’s great scenic train rides. For many, it truly is the trip of a lifetime – and so it proved for me. The TranzAlpine is a coast-to-coast journey which provides stunning vistas, hence its global ranking as one of the best rail trips going. It departs from Christchurch and winds its way through the Southern Alps, the mountainous chain that forms the backbone of the South Island, known to the Māori as Te Wai Pounamu – the waters of greenstone. On the edge of the patchwork farmland that is the Canterbury Plains, majestic views of the distant Alps are to be had, and the TranzAlpine’s huge windows provide the chance to gaze and dream. “Summer on the Coast is the time when the locals, and visitors from around the world, come out to play.”
104
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“For this particular pre-summer trip, I’ve opted to take on one of the world’s great scenic train rides. For many, it truly is the trip of a lifetime.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
105
“Summer on the Coast is the time when the locals, and visitors from around the world, come out to play.” Beyond Springfield, the mountains rise from the plains, the very landscapes that captivated the world in the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy. It’s Middle Earth at its best and hundreds of passengers look on, in awe. En route to the Tasman Sea and the West Coast region that is pounded by the big swells it produces, the TranzAlpine traverses a range of landscapes, with the plains giving way to vast swards of golden alpine tussock and then, as we draw closer
to the West Coast, to lush rainforest. Our stop-over is in the little settlement of Arthur’s Pass, populated by more of the mischievous kea – New Zealand’s only alpine parrot – than people, or so it seems to me. Our journey breaks in what is the South Island’s highest settlement, and while I decide to press on, many of my travelling companions leave the train, setting out for the alpine village in advance of the walking, mountain climbing or other nature-related activities this area offers. Emerging near the quaint township of Moana, on the shores of Lake Brunner, our journey is coming to an end. The vast wild ocean that separates New Zealand from
Australia comes into view and the TranzAlpine emerges on the West Coast, an ancient land from which humans spent decades extracting gold, coal and greenstone. The Coast’s ‘capital,’ Greymouth, is our finish point, for this part of the journey anyway. It’s been just four and a half hours since we left Christchurch, but time has flown by, the scenery leaving lasting memories. And the chicken curry was just as good! Greymouth boasts an array of rental agencies and suitably equipped with my car of choice, I head for the office of the Wild West Adventure Company, a pretty apt choice of name for an operation which focuses its activities in a region of this nature. The thing that immediately grabs my attention is the two distinctly different types of rafting on the Coast: one the more traditional, above the ground, on the river variety, and the other a more recent innovation – below it. Paul Schramm’s outfit operates both, with a wide range of options to boot. Black water cave rafting and river tubing, white water rafting, gentler familystyle rafting, thrill-seekers’ heli-rafting… it seems that if anything starts with R, they do it. Add on four-wheel drive adventures, rides on the West Coast Rail Trail, and other
106
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
bike tours and guided walks throughout the Coast, and the WWAC is definitely a starting point upon reaching Greymouth. It’s enough to keep a man occupied for at least half a lifetime, but alas, time is of the essence on this whistle-stop, adventureplanning mission, and a visit to Monteith’s traditional brewery is something one cannot possibly be late for! Toasting the independence of the good folk of this region is a responsibility that must be taken seriously, but watching how many one consumes in the process is absolutely recommended. The next day’s excursion, with Norwest Adventures, is another day of oohs and aahs, most of them uttered in vast caverns well below terra firma. Based at the historic Charleston hotel – is anything on the Coast not historic? – just over an hour’s drive north of Greymouth, this long-established operator specialises in adventures of the subterranean kind, with the guides enjoying one of the most spectacular playgrounds on the planet. The trip, in the open carriages of the train I’ve affectionately dubbed Thomas – I’d swear it is the original Tank Engine – is short, but spectacular. Running through primeval rainforest, this part of the journey recreates the era when bush trams reigned supreme, with grand views of the spectacular landscapes of the Nile River canyon. Once at Soft-rock Station you can walk to the suspension bridge or join the underground rafters on their journey to the
entrance of the Nile River Caves, which is where I am heading. It seems extreme adventure may have been born here; abseiling down into dark depths and crawling through little holes is an everyday occurrence in these parts, but my wanderlust is satisfied by a round of underworld rafting, or more aptly tubing, which is this company’s flagship product. Once again, it’s spectacular – we pass through massive glow-worm caves, seeing lots of formations and gatecrashing the home of what our guides tell us are the biggest glow-worms known to man, all the time bouncing down the river, well protected by wetsuits and crash hats. A more passive version of the tour involves cave walking alongside the river, but that is for those lesser beings without adrenaline surging through their veins. I’m glad I opted for the full caveman approach! Another great day under my belt, I head back to Greymouth, once more tempted by a re-enactment of my previous tangle with Monteith’s brewery, but then think better of it. My last day on the West Coast this time involves one of the region’s most iconic attractions, and the new tour being offered there. Franz Josef Glacier has been in existence for millennia, certainly long before the ultra-modern helicopter that carries me onto the ice, and into yet another world.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
107
“On the edge of the patchwork farmland that is the Canterbury Plains, majestic views of the distant Alps are to be had.�
108
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“Once at Soft-rock Station you can walk to the suspension bridge or join the underground rafters on their journey to the entrance of the Nile River Caves...” Officially known as the Ice Explorer, this recently-launched version of what is known elsewhere as a heli-trek carries visitors directly onto the pristine glacial ice, providing an incredible view in the process. The local operator, Franz Josef Glacier Guides, introduced it earlier in the year as a means of accessing an area where Mother Nature was showing her temperamental side. The glacier walk demonstrates why Franz Josef, and its sister glacier Fox, remain key visitor attractions in these parts.
Later that day, with sadness, I fly out of Hokitika, heading back to civilisation. But memories of one of the country’s most pristine natural worlds remain firmly implanted in my mind. With so many activities and attractions to experience and savour, it’s not an issue of deciding whether there is enough to do, but rather, how I will cover all that there is to do.
faces, but I know I’ll have to return for at least a week to be able to do it justice. That’s okay – autumn and its own little intricacies of nature will be here before I know it!
Two or three days on the Coast have given me a window-look into a region of so many
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
109
Kaikoura
Choose Your Own Adventure
kAIKOURA
Kaikoura
I recently caught up with my sister for lunch in one of the numerous new cafés that are popping up all over Christchurch. The outcome of our lunch was that I agreed to take her two bored teenage boys off her hands for a few days…
I
often have them stay overnight, which is easy enough, as all I have to do is feed them and let them disappear into their online world. But this time would be different, as I would have the boys for a few days. On top of that, our active auntie from Auckland had been promising a visit all summer. So I decided to take the bull by the horns and invite her to join us. Two bored teenagers at the end of their summer break and two auntiesquite a challenge.
After a couple of nights spent researching, I settled on Kaikoura as the destination for our mid-week break. Active auntie was delighted with my choice, but the boys were definitely not impressed. Undaunted by their lack of enthusiasm, I made some bookings and got organised for our trip. We soon found ourselves heading north from Christchurch airport on a sunny afternoon with active auntie onboard. After a lovely drive up the gorgeous
Kaikoura coast, basked in the soft lateafternoon sunshine, we checked into our two-bedroom apartment on the esplanade. With a bit of encouragement, we managed to get the boys to head off down to the pier with their fishing gear, and active auntie and I settled ourselves on the balcony with a glass of wine. What a treat! Kaikoura really is stunning. The view of the mountains and the ocean really does take your breath away. I spent an hour on the balcony catching up with active auntie. The boys arrived back at the apartment in an excellent mood; they hadn’t caught anything but had clearly had a lovely time. We all set off to the newish Italian restaurant that our helpful host had recommended. It was just a short walk from our apartment, and what a delightful walk it was. Dinner was just perfect: genuine Italian cooking and superb service. Our trip had really gotten off to a flying start, and even the boys were smiling! Next morning, active auntie was picked up for a two-day guided wilderness walk on a private walking track up in the Kaikoura mountains. It sounded like an amazing
110
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
experience, and she was very excited, as she loves tramping. We waved her off, and then the boys and I prepared for our first adventure of the day—swimming with the dolphins off the gorgeous Kaikoura coast. Much as I like dolphins, I’m not a confident ocean swimmer, so I opted to go on the trip as an observer only. On arrival at Dolphin HQ, the boys went off to get kitted out with wetsuits and all the gear. Then we all watched an informative and entertaining briefing before jumping on the bus for the short trip over to the marina. I have to say, all the staff involved in this trip were just superb: they were knowledgeable, friendly and fun. We were all soon onboard the boat and off in search of the playful dusky dolphins that, along with whales, seals, seabirds, and a host of other fascinating marine creatures, inhabit Kaikoura’s waters.
“Kaikoura really is stunning. The view of the mountains and the ocean takes your breath away.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
111
0.25 AD “Dinner was just perfect: genuine Italian cooking and superb service. Our trip had gotten off to a flying start, and even the boys were smiling!” It wasn’t long until we sighted our first pod of dolphins. The boat stopped completely and the swimmers were soon in the water. Although I had listened carefully to the pre-trip briefing, I was completely speechless when I saw how many dolphins there actually were. Our guide estimated that there were around two hundred dolphins in
the pod. I could hardly believe it but was assured that sometimes the pod size can be close to a thousand. The boys were clearly having the time of their lives. Once the swimming part of the tour was over, we all enjoyed hot chocolate and ginger biscuits, and the boys made good use of the warm water hose before getting changed. We took so many photos and did actually succeed in getting some good shots. Once back on dry land, we enjoyed lunch at the Dolphin HQ café – definitely worth a visit. We popped back to the apartment to re-group (as the boys liked to call it) then drove about fifteen minutes inland to the adventure park, where I left the boys to enjoy the mountain luge and the archery. I drove back into town and spent a relaxing afternoon in the craft shops and the wonderful bookstores. Of course, there was time for tea and cake at a delicious organic café (which was bliss) before I went back for the boys.
“The luge and archery had been a roaring success and I would highly recommend it to any auntie looking for inspiration on ways to occupy teenage boys.” The luge and archery had been a roaring success and I would highly recommend it to any auntie looking for inspiration on ways to occupy teenage boys. As soon as we got back to the apartment, the boys were off with their fishing gear, and I settled down on the balcony. The view just seemed to get better and better. Later on, we wandered along the esplanade toward the seal colony and enjoyed some delicious fish and amazing dessert at a lovely restaurant that I’d found in a food and wine trail brochure at the local visitor centre. As we enjoyed our meal, we thought about active auntie and her overnight stay in the luxury lodge high in the mountains. Next morning, we popped into the visitor centre, as the boys were keen to go on a fishing charter. The staff there was so helpful, and the boys were soon heading off for a half-day’s fishing. They promised to catch dinner and prepare a welcome home bbq for active auntie. With the boys occupied, I set off on the peninsula walk.
It’s just the best way to really soak up the spectacular Kaikoura scenery—the views of the coast and the mountains are sensational. All the way along the pathway are interesting information panels with fascinating stories and photos of the local wildlife, geology, Māori heritage, and the whaling industry. To my surprise, the boys did catch dinner, which amazingly included a crayfish. They were so proud of their achievements, and to be honest, so was I! By late afternoon, active auntie was back with us. She was what the boys called “hyper” as she told us about the amazing scenery she had experienced on the walk. The lodge was apparently located
at around a thousand metres above sea level, and active auntie said it was all quite magical. She showed us some of the photos she had taken, and even the boys were impressed. The boys’ bbq was a success and the perfect way to end our trip. I would definitely recommend Kaikoura for so many reasons: the scenery and wildlife are truly outstanding; there are some really good cafés and restaurants to try; and what really surprised me, there are a hundred and one things to enjoy both on land and on the sea. Just trust me on that! Find out more at
www.kaikoura.co.nz
Kaikoura wilderness by Pippa Hepburn
As we arrive in Kaikoura, I am struck by the majestic, snow-covered mountains so close to the sea. I learn later that this is only in place in NZ where this is to be found, and this is why the Whales are here.
T
his trip has been variously described as “sophisticated wilderness” or “glamorous tramping;” among other things, I am much looking forward to carrying only a light daypack while my luggage is transported to the lodge by rhino (the small ATV, not the animal). Kaikoura Wilderness Walks offers a threeday experience hidden in the Seaward Kaikoura ranges, fifty minutes to the north of Kaikoura. The morning has dawned
fine. Having been accommodation, we Puhi valley to the station, where our to start.
collected from our drive up the scenic historic Puhi Peaks walk is scheduled
Anticipation is high; many of us are nervous about our abilities to meet the challenge of getting to Shearwater Lodge. Our guide, Sam, greets us enthusiastically. He is Nicky’s son, and I feel reassured that we will be well looked after over the next three days.
During our briefing, Sam enlightens us that this is truly a walk in the wilderness, something he tells us people are often surprised and delighted about. There are no well-worn tracks here. Puhi Peaks Nature Reserve is meant to be shared only with your fellow guests, along with the birds, the bees, and the odd deer. It allows for a unique opportunity to enjoy a remote part of New Zealand. We set off to walk through native manuka, kanuka, and beech forest. The white clematis is in flower and incredibly beautiful. We see native wood pigeons by the Woolshed, and I already feel like I’m in another world. We head upward, immersed in the wonderful scents of the bush, before finding the surprise lunch that awaits us in the newly constructed lunch shelter at
“On the edge of the patchwork farmland that is the anterbury Plains, majestic views of the distant Alps are to be had.”
114
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Totara saddle. A note from Nicky reads, “Enjoy your walk today and take time to enjoy each moment.” It will be several hours before we reach Shearwater Lodge, the luxury eco-lodge where we will relax and reap the rewards of our day’s exercise. Over lunch, Sam points out where the extraordinary Hutton’s Shearwaters nest. The shearwaters are found only in Kaikoura; this is their last place on earth and they are the only seabirds to nest in the subalpine. Kaikoura Wilderness is very involved in their protection. (For more information, please visit www.huttonsshearwater.org.nz) After lunch, we cross Happy Valley stream and make our way into the ancient Totara forest. We climb higher, and just when I find myself wondering how much further we have to go, we break out of the bush and catch our first glimpse of Shearwater Lodge. How did that get there? Sam
“I somehow feel that no one who visits Shearwater Lodge will be disappointed.”
assures me that this question has been asked by many guests and is what makes this experience unique – the remoteness and unlikely location of the eco lodge. It is to be another hour before we are to walk onto the deck of the lodge, where Nicky awaits us with afternoon tea spread across the table. I am beginning to understand why others have called this a “sophisticated wilderness” experience: we enjoy hot scones, a fruit platter, Shearwater Lodge punch, and a much-needed cup of tea. Nicky, owner and operator of Kaikoura Wilderness, is obviously passionate about the experience she and her team offer. We join them by the roaring fire and I get the sense of why one guest has written in the guest book, “I somehow feel that no one who visits Shearwater Lodge will be disappointed.” After being shown to our rooms, I indulge in a stunningly hot shower. Wilderness walking takes on a whole new meaning here; we may be in the wilderness, but creature comforts are everywhere. It is the attention to detail that most impresses me. I return to the fire ready to enjoy a glass of wine, and we talk about what the morrow holds for us. Sam tells us we will climb to five thousand feet. I feel daunted, as do one or two of my fellow guests, but he assures me we will find the walk and the views some of the best to be found anywhere.
“Our delicious dinner is mostly sourced locally, and we are spoilt with crayfish, venison, and New Zealand wines.” 116
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Dinner is shared round the dining-room table, and we compare notes of the highlights of our day. Our delicious dinner is largely locally sourced, and we are spoilt with crayfish, venison, and New Zealand wines. Cordon Bleu–trained Nicky shares her vision of all guests feeling as if they are part of a family. Sated and well-exercised, most of us are struggling to stay awake, and I retire early. Following a hearty breakfast, Sam gathers us and tells us it is essential we take our coats: New Zealand can experience four seasons in one day. Anticipation is evident as we set off “Into the World of the Gods,” as Te Ao Whekere, the local mountain, is called. We climb gradually and are continually rewarded by ever-expanding views. As we gain Surveyors Peak, Sam invites us to place a stone on the cairn. We stand and absorb the 360° panorama from the mountain tops to the sea. The sight leaves me breathless with its grandeur—or is it the altitude? We sit quietly to enjoy our packed lunch.
This seems to be a time for reflection, and as we munch away quietly, I think we are all trying to absorb the overall magnificence of this scenery. Sam quietly suggests we should move on and give the scree a go. He tells us many New Zealanders have never had the opportunity to run a scree, and for many it is a highlight. Others are less enthusiastic, but they get to hold the guides’ hands. Either way, we all agree it is an accomplishment to have run a scree. The reward for our efforts is to find Nicky and her team waiting under the “wedding tree” (Hoheria Lyalli) with afternoon tea spread on a white tablecloth. When asked why the tree is so named, Nicky tells us that when she first saw the tree, the flower petals were strewn beneath the tree in late summer and it reminded her of confetti. Today, the wedding tree affords us some welcome shade following our exertions.
feeling of remoteness is fantastic; I am not missing my cell phone one little bit, or for that matter my emails. Our last day is highlighted by our visit to Beverley Falls, a jewel in the crown of this piece of land. Sam guides us back to the station, where our transport awaits to return us safely to Kaikoura. I am struck by how totally rested and relaxed I am and I feel as if I have been in another world for a week. Kaikoura Wilderness tells us to “get away from it all,” and this experience has certainly given us all that opportunity. As we drive into Kaikoura, my phone begins to beep as the messages arrive, welcoming me back to the real world.
We return to Shearwater Lodge to relax and enjoy the luxurious comforts of the lodge, which runs on its own hydro power. The
Tnz Top Pix
Kaikoura Wilderness Walks, Lodge & Hunting
+64 3 319 6966 www.kaikourawilderness.co.nz
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
117
Hurunui
Mountain Biking in
Hurunui by Dave Mitchell
Hurunui
Hanmer Springs is North Canterbury’s mountain bike Mecca, and for Ditte and I, a staging post for many a great backcountry adventure.
O
n the doorstep of this alpine village, a vast array of MTB tracks and walking trails fan out into the local pine forest and the Hanmer Forest Park. They cater for all ages and abilities, from the flat trails at the south end of the forest to the technical tracks that climb and descend north of the township between Jacks and Jollies Pass. Thanks to the Hanmer Springs Mountain Bike Club, new trails keep popping up on a regular basis, and there is an excellent trail map available from the Hanmer Springs i-SITE Visitors Centre. We often travel north from the township over Jacks Pass, down into the Clarence River Valley and into the high country. Tussock and snow grass dominate this mountainous terrain from the river flats to the tops. We head west, then due north on Tophouse Road to follow the eastern edge of the new St James Conservation Area, giving us access to the various entry points into this amazing playground. This recently established conservation area
118
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
fits snugly between the Spencer Mountains and the St James and Opera Ranges. It’s dissected by the Waiau River and along its eastern boundary runs the Clarence River, with the Molesworth Station beyond. The river valleys, streams, wetlands, lakes, and high altitude tarns are home to more than 450 species of flora and fauna. West of the Waiau River, red, mountain, and silver beech climb the lower slopes to the bush line, with patches of manuka, kanuka, and matagouri at valley edge and across the once-farmed flats. Purchased by the New Zealand government in 2008, the 78,000 hectare St James Station dates back to 1862 and was one of the largest in the country, running sheep, cattle and the famous St James horses. The horses look likely to remain on the property with DOC controlling their numbers. The area now caters for 4WD trips, tramping, mountain biking, fishing, and kayaking. As part of the New Zealand Cycle Trail initiative, the 64 km St James Cycle Trail was established in 2009. We generally start
the track from the Mailing Pass entry point, 25 km along Tophouse Road, and climb steadily on an old farm 4WD track to the top of Mailing Pass. Here, we enjoy an amazing view down into the Waiau River Valley and up to the usually snow-capped Spencer Mountains. 4WD vehicles can use the track over Mailing Pass where it meets the Waiau River. From there, a dedicated cycle trail has been built and takes us south along the bottom of the valley, on the true left of the Waiau River, to the Lake Guyon turn off.
We always enjoy the short climb up to Lake Guyon for lunch by the hut. It’s well worth the effort on a hot day, as the lake provides cool relief, reflecting patches of beech forest and providing clearings of lush green grass set against a clear blue sky. It’s a long, thin body of water sandwiched between dry hills, and out to the west, the Spencer Mountains extend up to the stunning snow-capped peaks of Una, Enid, and the Humboldt. The little mustering hut beside the lake is made of beech framing and the obligatory corrugated iron, renowned for its ability to withstand the storms of the high country. It’s a rustic four-bunk hut that complements a number of other historic huts in the park. Back on the main track, the old Ada Homestead, surrounded by tall conifers, comes into view on the other side of the valley. We ride inland to Saddle Spur Bridge and onto a massive terrace at the north end of the Opera Range. An old stock route climbs away from the back end of this terrace to Saddle Spur. We look back to the Muddy Lakes, spotting a dozen or so small tarns which dot ‘The Downs.’ This is a large scrub- and manuka-covered terrace that runs from the Camp Mounds back to Little Lake. As we head south, the track drops steeply following the face of Bunker Hill, hops across Camping Stream to finally drop onto the terraces that lead to the newly built McArthur Bridge, just past the historic Bridge Hut. Over the years, a number of suspension stock bridges have been constructed over this short gorge, with the last deteriorating installation replaced by a bike-friendly appliance.
“Thanks to the Hanmer Springs Mountain Bike Club, new trails keep popping up on a regular basis.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
119
“There are some rough and ready hot pools hidden up Cow Stream in the Edwards Valley, just the thing for tired bodies that just can’t wait to get back to Hanmer.”
But wait, there’s more.
“Lake Guyon provides cool relief, reflecting patches of beech forest and providing clearings of lush green grass set against a clear blue sky.” From the bridge, uninterrupted riding leads us along the true left bank for a short but steep climb up to Charlies Saddle and the start of the Edwards Valley. From the top of the saddle, the Opera Range stretches north towards the Lewis Pass and south down to the Magdalin Valley. Directly below us, the narrow gorge of the Edwards River snakes down to meet the Waiau. The descent to Scotties Camp and the old mustering hut is a real buzz, with the ride out of the valley just a gradual uphill. There are some rough and ready hot pools hidden up Cow Stream in the Edwards Valley, just the thing for tired bodies that just can’t wait to get back to Hanmer. Nearing the end of the Edwards Valley, Peters Pass links up with the St James Homestead and Tophouse Road, which is just a few kilometres from Jacks Pass. For Ditte and I, this marks the end of one of the best adventure rides in Canterbury. 120
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
There are many other ride options available in the park, with one of our favourites taking us from Fowlers Camp, beside the Tophouse Road, on an old stock route over Fowlers Pass and down a rough farm 4WD track in the Stanley River Valley. It eventually joins up with the St James Cycle Trail at the Edwards River Valley end. This is a gnarly ride, with an excellent piece of technical singletrack that descends from Fowlers Pass and views of stunning vertical rocky crags above the Stanley River. An overnight stay in either the fourteenbunk Christopher Hut, which is situated up the Ada River Valley, or newly built twentybunk Anne Hut up the Henry River Valley, is a great experience. A poled route and 4WD track leads to these well-insulated, fully serviced DOC shelters, resplendent with log burners, bunks, and cooking facilities. The huts are well placed to catch the sun, with excellent views up their respective valleys. They can be accessed via the cycle trail in either direction or from Fowlers Pass track, giving us the same flexibility for our return route. Tophouse Road continues beyond the Mailing Pass turn off to Lake Tennyson, and like the Clarence and Waiau Rivers, it is renowned for its fly fishing. We often wander around the west side of the lake on an old stock route and then for miles up the open valley beyond to the source of the Clarence River. We also love the tramp
up Mt McCabe at the west edge of the lake and along the ridge tops to Princess Bath, which is just below the 2100-metre Mt Princess. It’s one of the most beautiful alpine lakes in New Zealand, with matching views and some unusual alpine plants to discover. For those who enjoy the pleasures of gravel road riding, the organised Rainbow Rage and Molesworth Muster utilise the full length of the Tophouse and Rainbow Roads respectively. The former starts from St Arnaud and the latter from the Awatere Valley below Blenheim. They can be joined together for a round trip of cycle touring fun. The Molesworth Road is open to the public between 28 December to 9 April, and the Rainbow is open year-round. It may help to know that, when planning a trip, the prevailing wind is nor-west. For us, a week’s stay in Hanmer Springs allows us to just about cover all the tracks and trails on offer in the surrounding environs, with the promise of a hot soak and good meal at the end of a long, hard day. There is plenty of accommodation on offer and a relaxing feel to the town.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
121
Hurunui ~ wine ~
Whatever you do,
don’t miss Waipara by Jocelyn Johnstone
Hurunui HURUNUI
Wine has put Waipara on the map - and I’m about to sample it. What once was sheep country, with bleating lambs hassling their mothers in early Spring, is now most definitely wine country. In fact, if you put the window down and concentrate, I swear you’ll hear the metallic crack as the top snaps free on yet another Waipara-grown wine.
I
t’s a perfect Canterbury day, and I’m on a mission, heading straight for this enchanted, sheltered, rolling valley, up the main highway from Christchurch. In the last 20 years or so, wine lovers, growers, makers and the general public have witnessed the radical change in this landscape, whose terrain, setting and climate is ideally suited to its new crop. Over the braided Waimakariri River, through Woodend and Waikuku villages, and over the Ashley River, it’s
122
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
time for a quick coffee at Pukekohe Junction Café and Deli at Leithfield. Well, it was to be just a latte, but the food here, “made with love on the premises,” is too tempting. Would you say no to a slice of Rhubarb and Walnut Cake, or Chocolate Brownie? At 9.30am this place is humming. Right alongside is a gallery with quality items – and a wine shop. The billboard outside reads, “Every Waipara Valley Pinot Noir on sale from $13-$79.”
Getting warmer! Five minutes up the road and you’re in Amberley; another ten and you’ve reached the southern end of the Waipara valley and the turn off to Stockgrove Rd and Pegasus Bay Winery and Restaurant. It’s an award winning family business, the second generation of Donaldson sons taking over from wine pioneer parents, Ivan and Christine, who against all odds planted some of the first vines in the area more than 25 years ago.
No one thinks they're mad now! Edward Donaldson, number three son and Marketing Manager, explains just how thrilled they are to have been named the finest Winery Restaurant in New Zealand for the fifth year in a row in the Cuisine NZ Restaurant of the Year awards. And what an elegant place to share a long lunch! The views are magical, a natural bowl for concerts and events dips away to the right, there are expansive sheltered green lawns, and beautiful gardens, huge trees, and marble tables are dotted about. Like France, I think – until I see the pine trees and the indigenous sculptures. Out beyond is the vineyard, 120 acres plus of it, with a third for Riesling, another third Pinot Noir, and other varieties including Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurtztraminer making up the remainder. Ed tells me the most poorly kept secret of Waipara – that the region makes superb Riesling. Both he and I admit we like drinking it as an aperitif or dessert wine, the off dry or richer dry styles our preferred choices. Riesling has been the winery’s bestseller since around 1995; the most popular wine they produce, he says, is the Pegasus Bay Estate Riesling.
“In the last 20 years or so, wine lovers, growers, makers and the general public have witnessed the radical change in this landscape...”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
123
“What an elegant place to share a long lunch... like France, I think – until I see the pine trees and the indigenous sculptures.” There’s a tasting room with views of the barrel hall, so you can try before you buy – highly recommended. Two brands are on offer: Main Divide, from grapes purchased from other growers, and Pegasus Bay, made from Estate owned fruit. Another five minutes up the main north highway and the impressive silhouette of
The Mud House rises out of its Home Block vineyard on the right. Jenny Anderson, manager for the last 13 years, says that The Mud House is a “destination.” People have flown in by helicopter to conduct marriage proposals. Most arrive by car, though, for a coffee, lunch, party, or to attend a summer vineyard concert – some of them with international acts. Stylish retail is on tap, too. There are three vineyards on site and you can try the produce at the tasting bar. Before you make the decision about what will accompany lunch, take an educational stroll through the biodiversity trail amid the
pinot noir grapes, and learn about weta motels, lizard lounges and beetle hotels! Less than 10 minutes further up the valley, on the left, is Waipara Springs Winery and Café. This is New Zealand, no mistaking it. Huge gum trees tower over wonderfully weathered buildings in this authentic rustic setting. Dee Atkinson, Sales and Marketing Manager, confirms that the most popular Waipara Springs wines are Rieslings – dry, slightly dry, or richer styles – followed closely by Pinot Noir. She calls them elegant French style Pinots, very similar to those produced in Tasmania. We’re squinting in the bright sunshine, and I’m tucking into one of the “don’t miss” dishes – the famous Antipasto Platter designed for two or three – fighting for my share of the crumbed mushrooms, the herb and garlic sausages, the cheeses and the house baked breads, the tamarillo and pineapple slices... And yes, a glass of Waipara Springs Premo Dry Riesling.
124
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“Take an educational stroll through the biodiversity trail amid the pinot noir grapes, and learn about weta motels, lizard lounges and beetle hotels!” On next, to the Black Estate where from October (from Wednesdays to Sundays) you can admire the breathtaking panorama from a brand new architecturally designed Tasting Room. This long, low, black building hugs the sunny hillside, facing north-west out across the valley, over the Chardonnay, Pinot, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc vines. Alistair Blair, Manager of Vineyard and Sales, and part of the family which owns it, is very excited by the new facility. It will be somewhere special to have some wine and taste some food – terrines, breads, special cheeses, and local produce. I’m going back there for a picnic before the summer is out, to see how it evolves. It has been a long day, but there’s still time for Hurunui Village Winery and Café just south of the Hurunui Bridge. Rodger and Nola Strong have a boutique winery here with six acres producing Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, all of it sold on site and only available from the cellar door. A function centre, with a café styled on an old 1860s blacksmith’s shop and full of memorabilia, looks over the vineyard. I can see why countless groups plan their outings here. Delicious food, you can have a swagman to entertain you, and Wag the dog is a fixture. It’s about fun. Twenty minutes north is Hanmer Springs, a favourite escape, but I have to go home, 50 or so minutes back to Christchurch. I pass many other vineyards and wineries en route. The sun is low, the vines stretch for miles. They’ve transformed Waipara and added a new dimension to Canterbury. Best of all, there are plenty of Spring tomorrows to return and explore the others. Doing anything this weekend?
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
125
Christchurch
Christchurch:
The Next Chapter
Canterbury
Christchurch is not your average vacation destination; it is a city with a story that is unfolding and developing right here and now. n September of 2010, a massive earthquake shook the city of Christchurch. A mere five months later, in February 2011, another earthquake rocked the already damaged area, leaving the Central Business District of the city virtually levelled. Natural Disasters such as these are extremely difficult for any city to manage, and subsequently recover from, but Christchurch is not just any city. The largest city in the South Island has seen its fair share of hard times, but one thing is clear: Christchurch may be bruised, but it is not broken. In nature, destruction is a natural process of renewal and is integral
to maintaining a vibrant and healthy ecosystem. Although the situation in Christchurch was certainly not desirable, the city is doing its best to rise from the ashes with a vigour and vibrancy that would make even Mother Nature blush. Against all odds, Lonely Planet recently ranked Christchurch among the top ten cities to visit in 2013, making the city one of only three destinations in the southern hemisphere to be included in the list. So why is Christchurch so special? The answer lies largely in the hearts of the stoic residents of the Canterbury region who have refused to be beaten by the cruel hand that nature has dealt them. This resolute response is not entirely out of the blue or unexpected as Cantabrians are renowned for their steely determination, resilience and composure under pressure, best personified in their religiously idolised and revered rugby team, the Canterbury Crusaders. Although the CBD is not currently accessible to visitors, the heart of the
126
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“The largest city in the South Island has seen its fair share of hard times, but one thing is clear: Christchurch may be bruised, but it is not broken.�
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
127
“When faced with the daunting task of attempting to rebuild their lives and their city, the people of Christchurch made a brave decision.”
city is not gone, it has just relocated. Tim Hunter, CEO of Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism says, “The heart of Christchurch is probably more in the heart of the people than in one location. The people of Christchurch have kept the city moving and progressing and it is them that will shape the future.”
0.25 AD
When faced with the daunting task of attempting to rebuild their lives and their city, the people of Christchurch made a brave decision. They decided their story would not be one of defeat, but of rebirth. This local passion has shaped the development of the area. The evolution of this major city has brought with it a large amount of innovation and creativity. Hunter believes Christchurch’s successful recovery efforts are largely a result of the local spirit; “We are lucky enough,” he says, “to live in a city with so many entrepreneurial people that are willing to get out there, take risks and be innovative and creative.” Christchurch is still full of shopping, cultural experiences and night life; the settings have just changed a bit. One of the most unique and creative movements happening in the city right now is the “pop-up” phenomenon. What do you do when all the stores and restaurants have been destroyed? When all the bars have gone? Christchurch’s answer: take a bus or shipping container, add some friends and a little imagination and Voila! Problem solved, dinner served. These so–called “pop-up” businesses have allowed business owners to get creative. These businesses include bars located in buses, and entire shopping centres set up in shipping 128
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
0.25 AD
containers. Created out of necessity, but maintained out of love, these businesses provide a fresh and funky experience for travellers of any taste. So why should you visit Christchurch now? Hunter says that visiting the city will give travellers, “the chance to be a part of history.” Unlike older cities, Christchurch’s main attraction is not the buildings and stories of the past; rather, this city offers visitors the story of now. Christchurch invites travellers to witness the city’s transition, which is a unique but temporal opportunity. The innovation and creativity which have made Christchurch’s story so unique will ultimately result in the creation of a new cosmopolitan area in the upcoming years.
“Christchurch is still full of shopping, cultural experiences and night life; the settings have just changed a bit.”
“So–called ‘pop-up’ businesses have allowed business owners to get creative, with bars located in buses and entire shopping centres set up in shipping containers.”
130
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
The city’s Central Business District is estimated to be approximately 50 per cent complete within the next five years, and will include new infrastructure, an addition of the new Avon River Park running through the heart of city, and a variety of new shopping, dining and hospitality opportunities. For this reason, Hunter says time is of the essence, and visitors should visit now and later. “See Christchurch now, in this raw state, with the empty spaces that are waiting for new buildings and life but have been revitalised by creative ‘Gap Filler’ projects and funky pop-up bars and restaurants. Come back later to see what kind of buildings and creative ideas fill those empty spaces over the next few years.” Christchurch offers visitors an experience which is out of the ordinary, while still offering all the features which make any city appealing. All the makings of a perfect holiday – delicious local food, good shopping, and a range of night life – are available in Christchurch. The uniqueness of the experience lies in the city’s ability to creatively tailor all of these traditional activities to nontraditional settings. Christchurch’s story is one of resilience and evolution. It’s a story which can serve to remind us of the power of nature and more importantly, the power of passion. A visit to Christchurch will not be a walk on the beach, but the most exciting chapter of a story never is. The next chapter of the story of is waiting to be written; the next chapter is waiting for you.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
131
Tekapo/Mt Cook
A Classy Destination
Tekapo
Tekapo /Mt Cook
Halfway between Christchurch and Queenstown is a small town by the name of Tekapo – small town, big on activities.
T
he highest alpine lake in New Zealand, Tekapo boasts a beautiful turquoise colour and with a blue sky and shining sun, this expanse of water is really something to behold. I had the pleasure of a couple of nights over there some weeks ago, and after arriving from Queenstown I checked in to a very nice hotel and asked if there was anything to do in the evening. “Just
walk down to Tekapo Springs, five minutes down the road,” the friendly receptionist advised me. I arrived to find a multitude of options on offer to help ease my tired frame. The day spa offered a relaxing massage with some local oils and fragrances. My metabolism slowed, it was time for a dip in the hot pools. The complex is situated in such an amazing location; one can relax in the pools and look out over the placid Lake Tekapo. (The tubing was just a bit much adrenaline for me after nearly being put to sleep by the masseuse and hot pool dip.)
People young and not so young were also enjoying the ice skating rink. After a snack in the café at Tekapo Springs, it was up to ascend Mt John (in my car of course), home of the most southerly permanent optical observatory in the world. I was in time for the night time observatory tour, hosted by knowledgeable guides. The thrill of peering through powerful telescopes (16-inch, 11-inch and 9.25-inch apertures) and binoculars to see amazing sights both near and far was awesome. The Astro Café at The Observatory provided us all with a Hot Chocolate and
“The thrill of peering through powerful telescopes and binoculars to see amazing sights both near and far was awesome.”
132
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
HOT POOLS DAY SPA SKATING RINK SUMMER TUBE LICENSED CAFÉ
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
133
“It was Richard Rayward, a local pilot of note, who loaded us into his Air Safaris aircraft.” after a thoroughly enjoyable evening, I headed back to Peppers Hotel for a well earned rest.
The next day, I was hoping for another clear day and Mother Nature provided. I was off to fly over what is arguably the most stunning piece of alpine geography you will ever see. It was not my first flight over The Southern Alps, as coming into Queenstown with Jetstar one is often afforded a glimpse of this natural beauty. It was Richard Rayward, a local pilot of note, who loaded us into his Air Safaris aircraft; off we went toward the great mountain range. Air Safaris have operated in the Aoraki Mount Cook region since 1970 and really know what the traveller wants to see. I opted for the Grand Traverse flight, which crosses the Alps and takes one right to the Tasman Sea on the Western side of the mountain range. Beautiful turquoise glacial lakes, golden tussock lands, and 134
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
the braided river systems of the Mackenzie basin greeted me. Viewing remote high country sheep stations, glacial valleys, and landforms is a sight not to be missed. The Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is a magical world of permanent ice and snow, boasting New Zealand’s highest mountains and largest glaciers – including Aoraki Mount Cook and the Tasman Glacier. Over the “other side” it was the Westland Tai Poutini National Park, encompassing the magnificent Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers spilling down to the rainforests of the west coast. Mount Cook, at 12,316 feet, was the big attraction. Mt Cook used to be 12,349 feet (a few years back at school it was stock geography question). However, a number of years ago, the peak broke and collapsed, hence its current height. It’s a wonderful climbing mountain, a place where Hillary trained before his successful ascent of Mt Everest. Circling the great mountain (a spiritual peak for the Māori) was truly the highlight of my day. The magnificent mountain in all
its glory seemed to command respect over the whole area. That night I went down to the local pub and had a beer and a chat with some of the friendly locals. Their offers of hunting and fishing trips abounded and some of the trophy pieces and photographs on the walls were a testament to the area’s status as a hunter and angler’s paradise. Thar, Chamois, Wallaby, Red Deer and Goats are just some of the prey available to hunters in the area. Trout and Salmon also abound in the crystal clear fresh waters of the surrounding region. After a hearty breakfast, I drove out of Tekapo with a refreshed feeling, fond memories and a will to return very soon. That trophy head will be waiting.
established Tekapo Flying from LakeLakeTekapo since1970 1970
Experience a spectacular AIR SAFARIS 50 minute “Grand Traverse” flightseeing tour of Aoraki Mount Cook and glaciers. Covers over 200 km and highlights include: Aoraki Mount Cook and Mount Tasman Tasman & Murchison glaciers - Franz Josef & Fox glaciers plus much more!!
#
Ranked 1 Mount Cook/Mackenzie Experience* *Rankers.co.nz - Feb 2012
AIR SAFARIS
OPERATING FOR OVER 40 YEARS
Flights departing hourly from: Lake Tekapo - Mount Cook/Mackenzie Region State Highway 8, Lake Tekapo PH 0800 806 880
Franz Josef - Westland Region
State Highway 6, Franz Josef PH 0800 723 274
www.airsafaris.co.nz
sales@airsafaris.co.nz
Queenstown
Flying Solo in
Queenstown Queenstown
As a native New Yorker, the prospect of an “Outdoor” adventure was exciting, as well as terrifying. Now, I know what you’re thinking: Terrifying? Really?
Y
ou’re probably picturing me as a designer-purse toting, Starbucks worshiping, stuckup city dweller. The truth is my life as a New Yorker is hardly something out of an episode of Sex and the City. My purse is from Target, and I don’t even like coffee. The reason I was nervous had nothing to do with wildlife, nature or being away from my laptop; it had everything to do with taking an adventure alone, in a place notorious for a laidback lifestyle. Living in the ‘City that Never Sleeps’ has made me all too comfortable with concrete, car horns and probably most begrudgingly, two dollar hotdogs. Before leaving, I couldn’t remember the last time I had read a book for leisure, or even had more than six hours of sleep at a stretch. I chose Queenstown because frankly, I’d heard it was beautiful, and more importantly, relaxing. I left on my trip with the intention of discovering the sights, smells, and silence I had heard so much about, but never had the time to experience. Turns out, Queenstown was just what the doctor ordered.
136
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
When I first entered Queenstown, something miraculous happened. I was struck by the urge to turn off the car radio and open my windows. For the first time in a long time, I was so impressed with the view that I was compelled to stop my rental car and go for a walk. The spectacular lake and alpine scenery in Queenstown was like nothing I had ever seen. At the risk of sounding cheesy, the view itself impressed upon me a serenity I hadn’t ever felt before. In the summer, the sun rises in Queenstown at 5am and sets as late as 10pm. With longer days, I found more time to kick back and take the time to really enjoy things.
“I chose Queenstown because frankly, I’d heard it was beautiful, and more importantly, relaxing. Turns out, it was just what the doctor ordered.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
137
“For the first time in a long time, I was so impressed with the view that I was compelled to stop my rental car and go for a walk. The spectacular lake and alpine scenery in Queenstown was like nothing I had ever seen.”
I spent my first day sitting on the lake sunbathing, swimming and reading. I was later convinced to go water-skiing. Although I can say with certainty I will not be leaving my job to pursue a professional career in water sports, I had a blast. I decided to skip out on wakeboarding and parasailing (out of consideration for the poor potential onlookers) and headed for an early dinner. For dinner I stopped in historic Arrowtown at a traditional tavern, which housed a boutique brewery. Born of the 1862 gold
rush, Arrowtown is an easy 20-minute drive from Queenstown. The town looks like something straight out of a “Wild West” movie, with a new world twist. Quaint tree-lined avenues and old miners’ cottages lie next to fine clothing stores and art galleries. To my surprise, the choice of cuisine in the area was extremely diverse. Coming from a city loaded with dining options from every corner of the world, I was sincerely impressed with all of the available choices. Menus ranged from bistros to stylish café bars, from designer burgers to Japanese, Indian, Chinese, Turkish and everything in between. The next morning I headed to Glenorchy, the area of New Zealand where a large part of the movie epic Lord of the Rings was filmed. The area was a must-see for me. A few days earlier I had heard that the scenery was not to be missed and more importantly, I knew that pictures at Bilbo Baggins’ house would make my LOTRloving boyfriend very jealous. The area
138
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
was a spectacular 45 minute drive from Queenstown at the head of Lake Wakatipu. Bordered by the South West New Zealand World Heritage Area, the small town is the gateway to some of New Zealand’s most famous scenery, and its towering mountains, ancient beech forests and glacial-fed rivers made me feel as though I had left New Zealand for a vacation in Middle Earth. Even though Lord of the Rings was never really my thing, (I actually fell asleep through two of the movies) the scenery was out of this world. Glenorchy is not to be missed, Tolkien lover or not. The next morning I headed out for a new adventure: fishing. The idea of fishing had never appealed to me before, but my adventure was all about trying new things, so I gave it a shot. Now, I’m convinced that whether you’re a first-timer or an old hand, once you’ve been fishing in and around Queenstown you’ll be hooked. There are a range of fishing adventures on offer, from dry fly fishing and float tubing to back country fly fishing. Although I was new to the art, I went with a “you only live once” attitude and opted to take a helicopter ride to a remote area known for fishing. With the help of some local knowledge I managed to catch a rainbow trout, a feat I was sure a few of my friends at home would never believe. Our guide said that some travellers go on fishing
excursions for days, even weeks. Although the possibility was enticing, my time was limited, and I kept hearing my vegetarian sister’s voice in my head telling me to give it a rest. After posing for several snapshots with my catch, I had a drink with some new found fishing buddies and called it a night. The next morning I headed for a bike ride. Unlike fishing and water sports, biking is an activity I loved even before my journey to New Zealand. Although it was too pricy to bring my beloved road bike on the airplane, finding a place to rent one was no
problem. Before taking my trip, my initial interest in Queenstown was sparked when I read about the ‘Queenstown Trail,’ which has defined the area as an international cycling destination. The ‘Queenstown Trail,’ classed a ‘New Zealand Great Ride,’ is 110 kilometres of trails which link riders to all the popular tourism spots in the area including Queenstown Bay, Frankton, Lake Hayes, Arrowtown, and Gibbston. The trail provides easy access to iconic experiences including bungee jumping, jet boating and
FLUID11640
For bookings email queenstownreservations@skyline.co.nz or phone +64 3 441 0101. Brecon Street, Queenstown, New Zealand.
skyline.co.nz .co.nz
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
139
“In Arrowtown, quaint tree-lined avenues and old miners’ cottages lie next to fine clothing stores and art galleries.” wine tasting. The trail could be cycled as a whole or in sections; I chose the latter. Although the ride was challenging, it was easy enough that I was able to enjoy the sights. Taking the trail in sections allowed me to stop for food, some picture taking and most importantly, wine. This leg of the trip was where I really started to feel reenergized. I had time to think about home, my job and more importantly, my life. Somewhere along the way I stopped, lay in the grass and just stared up at the clouds. As I lay there, I realized why I had been so nervous – I was totally alone. It was a feeling I had never felt comfortable with until now. To me, like many others, “alone” had always meant being lonely, bored, or unpopular. At home I would fill any moments I had alone with digital conversations on my Facebook, phone or computer. If it was quiet, I put music on; if I was walking somewhere, I was texting. But in that moment I was
140
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
alone with no escape, and it actually felt liberating. Much to my surprise, I was content enjoying the breeze and just taking in the moment. At the end of my bike ride I went to bed hungry for adventure and full of new ideas. The ride served as a type of meditation for me, a chance to reconnect with myself and the world around me. The next morning I headed for an early morning massage, much-needed after my exciting but physically challenging adventures. With only two days left and one self-realisation under my belt, I did what any rational person would do: I headed out on a wine tour. I spent the afternoon at one of Central Otago’s 200 vineyards. With a
backdrop to rival any postcard and a glass of local Pinot Noir in hand, I wondered if my trip could get any better. And then it did. The Queenstown nightlife was a welcome surprise. Much different from the serene nature of the rest of my trip, the nightlife in the area was fast paced and upbeat, just how I like it. Around one corner were stylish bars and sophisticated clubs, while the next spot offered funky DJs and busy dance floors. Each venue offered unique quirks, my favourite being a bar which sold cocktails in tea pots. My night out topped off my trip, reinforcing in my mind that Queenstown actually does have it all. The next morning, I made a last minute stop at some of the shops. I purchased a necklace for myself, a dress for my sister,
“The Queenstown nightlife was a welcome surprise - fastpaced and upbeat, just how I like it.” and a bottle of wine “for a friend.” The trip to the airport was a bit rushed – a reminder of home – but I managed to snap a few more shots of Queenstown as I left. As the plane took off and I gazed at New Zealand from above, I was thankful for my time there, but I wondered if my experience would change my life at home.
spend entirely too much time on my iPhone. But now I like fishing, I lay down in the park sometimes, and I actually enjoy spending time alone. I have taken up meditating, and the time I spend alone has led to some great writing inspiration. I wouldn’t say that I am a ‘new me,’ but that there is now more of me. My experience in Queenstown has given me new hobbies, and more importantly, a new perspective.
Tnz Top Pix “Ecological kayaking trips to Pigeon Island, Lake Wakatipu”
Visit www.queenstownNZ.co.nz for more inspiration and great deals for flights, activities and accommodation.
The reality is I still eat two dollar hot dogs, I am still terrible at water skiing and I still
P: 0064 3 442 9904 www.rippledearth.co.nz
New Zealand Scenic Flights by Air Milford is a family owned and operated aviation company, which prides itself on offering visitors to New Zealand personalised flightseeing tours. You can also charter flights and enjoy even more of the dramatic scenery of New Zealand’s Fiordland and Southern Alps. Flightseeing with Air Milford offers you: • The thrill of flying and experience of seeing New Zealand’s ‘Godzone’ countryside from the air. • The chance to see New Zealand’s unique and exotic flora and fauna, including seals and penguins. • Choice of a wide range of sightseeing and flightseeing tours options throughout the Fiordland and Southern Alps. • One of Queenstown and New Zealand’s highest operational and safety audit ratings. “Air Milford, New Zealand scenic flights and charter flight specialist, offers you flights to and from Milford and Doubtful Sounds, Mount Cook and Queenstown, NZ.” www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Air Milford 1 Tex Smith Lane, Queenstown Airport | P: ++64 3 442 2351 | F: ++64 3 442 3249 | E: info@airmilford.co.nz
www.airmilford.co.nz
141
“The Guardian Above”
Skyline Queenstown
Towering over Queenstown like an official guardian is The Skyline Queenstown. A building constructed in the early sixties as a tourist stop, accessible by bumpy road and transported by old vans with a gradient of 1:4:5, prompted an innovative company to construct a cableway to the top of Bob’s Peak from near the centre of the town and open it in 1967.
T
he Skyline experience is on the majority of visitors’ “must do” lists, and not only is the view spectacular but the activities at the top are fun and interesting.
It had been around seven years since my last trip up the cableway and I was very excited when we jumped inside the gondola and headed up the cable to see what was on offer that evening. When travelling, the first thing we like doing is eating, and the buffet at The Skyline Queenstown is legendary. The choice of local fare is mind-boggling. One really 142
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
needs to put aside some time to admire the spread – starters, hot and cold mains, desserts, cheese boards and a great selection of beverages. My roast lamb was superb; following it up with a boysenberry cheesecake, I was more than satisfied. After dinner, it was out on the balcony to feel the fresh air and further admire the view we had enjoyed during dinner. The panorama of the whole Wakatipu Basin is magnificent from this amazing vantage point, with viewing platforms that provide photo opportunities for all. Next to the main building, if you’re lucky, a bungy jumper may leap from the tower situated
right beside the complex. This adds to the attraction, and you may partake in this original New Zealand pastime if you need an adrenaline rush.
“When travelling, the first thing we like doing is eating, and the buffet at The Skyline Queenstown is legendary.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
143
Skyline Stargazing takes visitors to a specially constructed area high above the main complex, where there is no trespassing light, allowing for an unbelievably clear view of the night sky. Top-of-the line telescopes give stargazers the chance to view an amazing array of stunning sights, from the iconic Southern Cross to nebulae, planets, the Milky Way and other galaxies. Co-Ordinator Matt Hall says winter was an exciting time of year to explore the night sky. “The centre of our galaxy sits right above us in the winter months,” he says. “There’s simply so much on show for us and we’re able to actually look into the past, something which blows most peoples’ minds!” Mr Hall joined Skyline Stargazing from the Mt John Observatory at Lake Tekapo and brings with him over four years’ experience as an astronomy guide. “This is a really exciting tour, tailored to suit the needs of each individual group, from first-time stargazers to the more experienced.” The clear views are provided by two portable high-powered Celestron telescopes brought in specially from the US, which can automatically track points of interest, giving everyone time to see the sights. Guests on the outdoor tour will have no trouble keeping warm, with high-quality Canada Goose down jackets provided.
“The clear, unpolluted skies of Queenstown provide the perfect setting for Skyline Queenstown’s new s targazing experience.”
After surveying the landscape, it was into the theatre to enjoy the Kiwi Haka performance. After a traditional Māori greeting we were taken on a journey detailing the arrival, lifestyle and culture of New Zealand’s native people. Crowd participation is encouraged and of course as the name suggests a traditional Māori Haka is performed. By this time, it was dark enough to be taken outside to partake of the Stargazing option. Not one to have ever been a budding astronomer, I was a little skeptical, but the clear, unpolluted skies of Queenstown 144
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
provide the perfect setting for Skyline Queenstown’s new stargazing experience. With Skyline’s magnificent location and Queenstown’s long winter nights, I really enjoyed the new Skyline Stargazing tour and was able to get closer to another world than ever before.
Skyline General Manager Lyndon Thomas says that mankind had always been fascinated with the stars. “With most not easily viewable from major cities or requiring a journey to an out-of-the way observatory, Skyline Stargazing has universal appeal,” he explains.
“The view from Skyline is out of this world and this is an opportunity to explore the night sky from a rare and unique position,” says Skyline General Manager Lyndon Thomas.
“Queenstown is the adventure capital of the world with an excellent selection of restaurants and bars, but there aren’t too many tailored options when it comes to enjoying our natural surroundings at night.”
Perched high above Queenstown, and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, keen stargazers at Skyline will have the opportunity to access a ‘hidden world’ not seen by the naked eye and impossible to see in many other locations around the world.
The guardian of Queenstown is certainly one of the most interesting venues available. Give yourself time to enjoy this amazing attraction.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
145
Born of Gold
ARROWTOWN
HURUNUI
150 years of gold has just been celebrated in Arrowtown with a festival that included beard growing and gold panning competitions as well as a wonderful exhibition in the local museum, a ball, and other incredible festivities.
T
he Arrow Basin was formed when the great glaciers carved out the Wakatipu Basin. Local Māori passed through the area on seasonal trips to hunt native birds and extract pounamu (greenstone). Waitaha, the first tribe, were later joined by Kati Mamoe who were driven south after fighting with Kai Tahu. By the 1700s the three tribes were locked together by marriages and peace alliances. William Rees and Nicholas von Tunzelmann were the first Europeans to establish farms in the area. Rees’ cadet, Alfred Duncan, provides us with one of the first 146
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
descriptions of the Arrow River, “flowing like silver threads through the blackened [matagouri] scrub-clothed plains.” It was not the silver look of the river but the gold it contained that saw Arrowtown evolve. Jack Tewa, a shearer for Rees, was the first to discover gold around May 1861, followed by either William (Bill) Fox or the team of Thomas Low and John MacGregor late in 1862. It is unclear who was next. Being a forceful character, Fox took credit for the discovery and for a while the town was called Fox’s. Although there were attempts to keep the
discovery secret, there were 1,500 miners camped down on the Arrow River by the end of 1862. 12,000 ounces (340 kgs) of gold were carried out on the first gold escort in January 1863.
“It was not the silver look of the river but the gold it contained that saw Arrowtown evolve.”
“Avenues of trees were planted in 1867 in an attempt to make Arrowtown look more like the European towns the settlers had left behind.” Gold eventually became harder to extract and the opening up of the West Coast goldfields in 1865 saw European miners heading for the riches there. This impacted on the Otago economy, and in an attempt to restimulate it the Otago Provincial Government invited Chinese miners to come to the Otago goldfields. The Chinese created a separate settlement in Arrowtown, remaining until 1928. Remains of this settlement are there today. After the initial gold rush, a more permanent town began to establish itself. The avenues of trees were planted in 1867 in an attempt to make Arrowtown look more like the European towns the settlers had left behind. Arrowtown began to stretch beyond Buckingham Street when the town was surveyed in 1869. The first mayor, Samuel Goldston, was elected in 1874. Fire was a constant threat. A large fire in December 1896 resulted in the destruction of the Morning Star Hotel, Campbell’s bakery and the top storey of Pritchard’s Store. The store was rebuilt whilst the site of the Morning Star Hotel was left empty and is now known as Buckingham Green. In spite of fires, and more recently development pressure, Arrowtown has around 70 buildings, monuments and features remaining from the gold rush era. Arrowtown continued to survive after the gold ran out by becoming a farm service town. Although the permanent population declined, during the 1950s it gained a reputation as a popular holiday destination. This saw New Zealand holiday makers restoring the historic cottages and building holiday houses. Most of these have now become permanent residences. By the turn of the 21st Century Arrowtown had become a popular visitor destination and one of the fastest growing towns in New Zealand.
148
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
ARROWTOWN FASHION
Twenty minutes drive from Queenstown is beautiful and historic Arrowtown. Discover a unique mix of history, activities and leisure. Update your wardrobe at Arrowtown’s top stores - IKON, Wallace & Gibbs and Te Huia. Friendly staff, beautiful stores, top brands, and gorgeous clothing that is impossible to resist! Check out IKON for edgy international looks for men and women and admire top designer brands at Wallace & Gibbs. Discover Arrowtown’s beautiful new store Te Huia, where absolutely everything has been made in New Zealand.
100% New Zealand Made 38 Buckingham Street Arrowtown Ph: (03) 442 1355 E: info@tehuianz.com
www.tehuianz.com
Shop 5, 50 Buckingham St. ARROWTOWN Ph: (03) 442 1355 E: info@ikonnz.com
COLOURFUL COOP by TRELISE COOPER COOP by Trelise Cooper is a real winner. The 2013 collection is packing some serious heat in the colour department for summer with lime green, bright orange, apricot, white and hot pink hues. Diagonal hemlines feature on the green and white leafy tubing dress while a range of animal inspired prints with names like Pussy Galore and Leopard have a metallic finish in pretty apricot tonings. Soft chiffon tops are a riot of bright punchy colours and work brilliantly with this seasons white jeans. Fearless in design and with all the international style Trelise Cooper is renown for, the COOP label is hot for 2013.
Shop 4, 50 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown Ph: (03) 442 1355 E: info@wallaceandgibbs.com
Wanaka
A Word About
Wanaka by Glyn Neath
Lake Wanaka
Sometimes a place is about the scenery and sometimes it’s just about the people. And some places are about the feeling. Like Wanaka.
T
here’s a certain point when you know your body’s reached its perfect equilibrium—when you’re so relaxed, your heart’s beating in soft samba time, your skin’s tingling from a hard day chilling out in the sun, you can taste the tingle of each bubble in that cold beer you’ve been fantasising about all day, and the aroma of your freshly cooked pizza in the air enhances the sight of a sunset coloured just the way you like it. You’d think there should be a word for it.
And I reckon there is. It’s Wanaka. It’s the people, the places, the attitudes, the access to the outdoors, the activities, the smiles, the welcomes, the wry humour… Yeah, it’s Wanaka. This being a New Zealand town, it all starts with the scenery, and in a country where even the most mundane towns start stirring dreams of relocating for good, this place leaves them all for dead.
Mount Aspiring National Park is a great place to start. You can tramp it, camp it, jet boat it, or chopper over it and get that PeterJackson-scouting-for-locations feeling. Which is easy, because great weather comes to the Wanaka party whatever the season, painting the mountains vivid on the bright days and dramatic at every other time. Not that the sun ever just sets; that’s not nearly Wanaka enough. No, it lowers itself reluctantly into a cosy-looking bed of blue sky between gradually silhouetting mountains. You can almost hear it sigh as it disappears for the night. Tricky for artists, but poets can get away with murder here. But while the place starts with its natural attributes, that’s by no means the top and bottom of it. See, it goes like this: Wanaka isn’t one of those places where you get stuck and can’t escape. Everybody who lives here has made the choice to stay, and they do that because they fall hopelessly in love with the place. The result is that Wanaka is full of like-minded people, all
150
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
“You’d think there should be a word for it. And I reckon there is. It’s Wanaka.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
151
and breathe the air from a great selection of swanky hotel balconies, backpacker decks, or campground deckchairs, and have a ball without ever leaving your digs. It’s nirvana for parents, who can present their offspring with safe adventure playgrounds they’ll never tire of, and the perfect feel for total relaxation or watersports for just about everybody else. But you don’t really have to anything to be part of the town’s buzz. The chatter in the inviting pubs, restaurants, and cafes is peppered with stories of the day, plans for tomorrow, legends from the past, and missions in the future so anybody can live Wanaka vicariously. You can even tailor the experience by timing your visit. Wanaka’s events calendar has evolved and been nurtured to offer a wide variety of attractions where anybody can join in.
“It’s nirvana for parents, who can present their offspring with safe adventure playgrounds they’ll never tire of, and the perfect feel for total relaxation or watersports for just about everybody else.” happy with their lot, which makes it a happy place to be. And, as it happens, they’re all proud enough of it to want to share it with everybody. It doesn’t matter if they’ve been there for a couple of seasons or a dynasty of generations, sometimes the place seems like a town full of tour guides. Ask anyone the way to somewhere and you’ll almost certainly get some complementary suggestions of other sights you might want to check out on the way. They’ll probably point you in the direction of things you might not know about, like Have a Shot, where budding Annie Oakleys can try their hands at shooting anything from a .22 rifle to a double-barreled shotgun in complete safety, or Puzzling World’s new illusionary sculpture garden, or Cardrona Adventure Park, where you can feel the thrill
152
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
of a mighty monster truck. More serene options include the astonishingly vast Transport and Toy museum, conveniently sited near Warbirds and Wheels, the ideal place to go gooey-eyed at fighter planes and vehicles you’ve probably only ever seen in black and white before. But while there’s a huge choice of places to go, things to do, and sights to see, you’ll soon find yourself promenading along the beachfront of an afternoon and stopping to chat with strangers, or just simply parking yourself on the sand and watching the boats bob on the blue, sun-dappled waters of the lake, or closing your eyes and hearing the excited shrieks of kids leaping off the floating pontoon, underscored by the odd. Whatever happens, Wanaka defies you not to lay back. Whether that translates to actually putting your shoulder blades on the ground and facing the cloudless sky is up to you, but your mind will be doing it anyway, so you might as well join in. And you can do that anywhere round here, which is especially appealing if you’ve spent the afternoon on a comprehensive wine investigation at Rippon Vineyard, or sampling the output from local brewers Wanaka Beerworks. You could switch off
The Wanaka vibe is all about inclusivity. Just because the Rippon Festival features the country’s most contemporary reggae bands don’t mean you need to be a twentythree-year-old dreadlocked Rasta man to front up. You could easily be skanking alongside a fifty-something company director in plastic sandals. City slickers are as at home as the most rustic farmers at the Upper Clutha A&P Show, where black singlets rub brawny shoulders with glamorous halter-necked backs. High boots and Stetsons are just as in vogue as Aertex and skate shoes when the Wanaka Rodeo kicks off, and while the ripplingmuscled ironmen and women take on the Herculean Challenge Wanaka iron distance triathlon, the only training you’ll need to spectate is the odd spot of cheering practice and clapping. It’s that kind of place. Being a part of Wanaka is open to anybody, full or parttime. All this becomes clear in the evening, when you’re sitting at that restaurant table with that first beer, or sitting on the apartment balcony feeding the children, or cooking the barbecue at the campground, or just stopping, looking and working out what it’s all about, with your evening head on as the sun goes down. There must be a word for this feeling. And I reckon there is. It’s Wanaka.
Milestone reached on Puzzling World’s new extension
abroad or that exist only in theory together with unique creations offered by talented local sculptors will help create what’s believed to be the world’s first sculpture garden based on the Illusion theme.
One of Wanaka’s most iconic tourist attractions, Puzzling World, has reached the half- way point building their major extension to help celebrate their 40th year in business.
The roof is going on and now it’s time to countdown to Puzzling World’s biggest launch in over a decade – their fifth and largest Illusion Room. At over 530M2 the complex, themed around an illusionary sculpture garden, will nearly double the size of the Illusion Room complex and allow for plenty of space for visitors to enjoy the larger-than-life exhibits on display. The room will feature approximately 25 large sculptures, artworks and displays designed specifically for the attraction in an environment that seeks to re-create a natural, indoor garden setting. “From Living Walls, stone carpet, impossible garden seats and hanging waterfalls the visitor will be surrounded by a surreal environment while enjoying three dimensional sculptures and exhibits that until now have only existed on paper”, says Puzzling World, Duncan Spear.
“It’s critical for our business to maintain our “unique” tag and this type of addition seeks to fulfill this while also delivering on our “great for all ages” mantra.” Taking ideas from what they’ve seen
Barry Condon from the well-known local firm, Sarah Scott Architects is in charge of design and ABL Builders have been tasked with the challenge to make the room a reality in what has been a difficult environment. “I’m very thankful for our builders who have worked in one of the coldest pockets of Wanaka during one of the coldest winters” Duncan said.
h t i w g n i s s Me your head 3 7 9 1 e c n i s
naka’s a W o t e m o Welc orld wonderful ws. of weirdnes illusion
s of dings, room affle your Bizarre buil w maze ill b s u o m fa r u eptions and o ge your perc n e ll a ch d n brain a believing! eeing is dis of reality. S
In terms of the sculptors, Derek Ball who made the faces for Puzzling World’s famous Hall of Following Faces has been commissioned to create several large pieces. Local sculptors including Ernie Maluschnig, Chris Riley, Deane Weastall and Southlander, Russell Beck have also been commissioned for pieces within the room. “We want to make the garden a truly “Kiwi” project by using native plants and showcasing local talent” says Duncan. Scheduled to open on December 1st the new Illusion Room is missing one major component – a name. “We want to engage the community with this project and one way we can do this is have a competition to select the best name for our new room” says Duncan. “ the name needs to encompass what we’re trying to achieve which is to create a unique space that explores the artistic, sculptural side of Illusions within a sustainable, natural environment” Entries can be posted on Puzzling World’s Facebook page or emailed to Duncan at info@puzzlingworld. co.nz with the winner to be announced on October 1st
WORLD naka 9382 PUZZLING wy 84, Wa H te a z g g ka Lu world.co.n 188 Wana @puzzling fo in : E 9 8 74 P: 03 443
d.co.nz l r o w g n i l z www.puz ded on
Recommen
Central Otago ~ B a nnoc k b u rn ~
Cromwell
Surprises by Jonno Gadd
OTAGO
Central Otago
It is my opinion that, when travelling, it is the experiences that we don’t expect that prove the most memorable and really make the trip worthwhile.
J
ulie and I were travelling from Queenstown to Dunedin on the coast and had a couple of days to spare. Rather than stay in Queenstown, we decided to explore Cromwell in Central Otago. Only 45 minutes from Queenstown, it is a revelation, offering a pace and experience that left us refreshed and inspired. With its unmistakable “Big Fruit” statue, Cromwell and its surrounding areasPisa Moorings and Bannockburnoffer an enticing mix of luxury accommodations, outstanding dining experiences, and world-class wine, fruit, and art, all set in a visually stunning landscape. We based our stay at Pisa Range Lake Resort, just a few minutes north of Cromwell. When seen from the road, the Pisa Range Lake Resort doesn’t scream ‘hotel’: it is a spectacular group of apartments built over a sheltered marina. As the manager, Anthony, explained to us, the development of the resort is ongoing, with new apartments being built as they are sold. Anthony expects that the entire facility will be completed within two or three years.
154
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
During our stay, we ate at the Moorings Restaurant & Bar attached to the resort. Every now and then, you receive a meal that is presented so well that it
almost seems a shame to eat it; this was the case at the Moorings. Julie’s smoked salmon and rosti stack was a work of art and tasted even better than it looked. Feeling well fed, we decided to explore the area for the afternoon. Cherries, apricots, nectarines, and other stone fruit make this area one of the fruit bowls of New Zealand; a stop at one or more of the local fruit stalls is a must. Our next stop was Cromwell Heritage Precinct on the shores of Lake Dunstan. It is a brilliant place to poke around and
With its unmistakable “Big Fruit� statue, Cromwell and its surrounding areasPisa Moorings and Bannockburn-offer an enticing mix of luxury accommodations, outstanding dining experiences,...
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
155
“The smoked salmon and rosti stack was a work of art and tasted even better than it looked.” explore, where specialist shops are mixed with artists’ spaces and historical displays. It is also home to a farmers’ market every summer. Having coffee served to us as we sat at a picnic table overlooking the lake was a truly enjoyable experience. We then headed to the Bannockburn tailings. Central Otago was the site of a major gold rush in the nineteenth century and remnants of the industry are scattered all through the district. Bannockburn is one of the most visible and accessible sites. Most of Bannockburn’s features are manmade: water cannons carved out huge areas and left a totally modified and unique landscape. Our trip around the tailings took about an hour and every turn brought a new view or something else to marvel at. Let’s be clear: Central Otago doesn’t do trees. It does big skies, large glowering ridgelines, tussock and thyme, and worn schist outcrops. It is stunning! Back at Pisa Range Lake Resort, we took the opportunity to sit out on the balcony and relax. As the sun set, we watched the shadows of the large semi-tame trout that inhabit the marina. Fishing is prohibited, so the fish hang about and get big. Dinner at the Moorings Restaurant was as enjoyable as lunch. The large number of visitors and locals dining on a weekday evening testified to the quality of the food and beverages. The highlight for Julie was a local specialty - the Pisa Colada: like a Piña Colada, only yummier! We rose late in the morning and eased ourselves into the day ahead with breakfast at the restaurant. At eleven o’clock, Jim
156
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
0.25 AD “In addition to great wines, Mt Difficulty offers a topnotch dining experience.” Ashe of Pinot Thyme tours picked us up from reception for a day of wine touring and tasting. Jim has worked for years in the wine industry in both Australia and New Zealand and is the perfect knowledgeable host for a day visiting local wineries and tasting the local vintages. He offers a range of wine tours, some including activities such as golf and arts and crafts. Our first stop was Bald Hills, where we met Blair Hunt. Bald Hills is a labour of love, established in 1995 by Blair and his wife, Estelle. In 2007, the Bald Hills Pinot Noir won champion wine at the International Wine Challenge. This (and subsequent successes) has helped establish Central Otago as one of the world’s premier wine areas. A tasting with Blair is an unforgettable experience as the man is a born storyteller. We followed up Bald Hills with a visit to Mt Difficulty, where we had lunch. In addition to great wines, Mt Difficulty
offers a top-notch dining experience and is open year round. Weather permitting, they offer outdoor dining on a terrace overlooking the valley. It must be one of the best dining views anywhere, and the food is fantastic; I had the duck, which is the chef’s signature dish. In a word, it was great! During lunch, I struck up a conversation with a fellow diner, an American from the Napa Valley. He was in raptures about the Central Otago wines: he was thrilled that tastings didn’t cost $20 and that in most cases he got to talk to someone involved in the winemaking process. A tasting followed lunch. Despite the fact that Mt Difficulty is the largest winery in Central Otago, the dining and tasting experience was still very personal. We were then whisked off to Akarua, our final winery stop for the day. Akarua, like Mt Difficulty and Bald Hills, is based at Bannockburn, about five minutes south of Cromwell. Akarua has an amazing tasting room, with wine barrels used as tasting tables, creating a series of conversation hubs and therefore discussion about the wines. I had planned to do a breakdown on
“Perhaps the greatest surprise was that the pace and style of life in Central Otago meant that people there take the time to really get to know each other.” the wines we tasted, but the truth is that I liked everything I tried. My advice is to try the varieties you aren’t usually sold on. I discovered that not only does Central Otago do great Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris (which I already knew), but the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay were equally as good. The biggest surprise was the Rosés – they were extremely good. Our final stop was the perfect antidote to a day spent trying wine and sitting in the sun: Jim took us up a steep dirt road above Bannockburn to the studio of artist Alan Waters. Alan produces challenging and intricate artwork, mainly on canvas but also in metal and glass. Even though we weren’t in the market for a painting, he welcomed us and we spent an interesting fifteen minutes talking about everything from cycling to the spread of dairying.
This concluded our tour, and Jim ferried us back to our car so we could recommence our journey to the coast. In a funny way, the last visit encapsulated our stay in Central Otago. Alan was genuinely interested in us and our stories. Everywhere we went, we were able to get past the usual barrier of being walking wallets and have genuine conversations with our hosts. Our two days in Cromwell featured a host of surprises. Perhaps the greatest surprise was that the pace and style of life in Central Otago meant that people there take the time to really get to know each other. Julie and I ruminated on this as we drove through the stunning Cromwell Gorge on our way to Alexandra, the centre of activity for the Otago Central Rail Trail and a major fruit and wine district in its own right. But the delightful surprises we experienced in Alexandra will have to wait for another day.
46 Cornish Point Road, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand P: 0011 64 3 4453161 | F: 0011 64 3 4453160 E: blair@baldhills.co.nz, estelle@baldhills.co.nz
www.baldhills.co.nz
Dunedin
Summer Family Fun Sorted in One Word:
Dunedin by Olivia Black
Dunedin
Planning our upcoming summer holiday was wonderfully easy this year. In fact, we sorted it in one word: Dunedin.
F
or our family, arranging holidays is typically a negotiator’s nightmare, usually based around compromise and teeth gritting. But not this year! Our family looked for a destination that ticked the boxes for our sixteen-year-old daughter, ten-year-old son, and eight-year-old princess… oh, and the adults, who would be funding the holiday. All of us had non-negotiables: Eight-year-old princess: “I want to play princesses and have a tea party.” Ten-year-old chocolate aficionado: “Show me a chocolate waterfall and I’ll do the dishes for a month.” Sixteen-year-old Facebook expert: “I want beach photos of the holiday so I can show off my bikini/sarong combo on FB.” Adults in need of soul feeding: “Tapas,
160
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
a view, and the odd dalliance with art and cuisine, please.” After only minimal research, we found that Dunedin was the obvious choice. A treasure trove of family fun, Dunedin features everything from the big stars to the hidden gems, with so many choices for family adventure, no matter what budget you are on. To our absolute delight, we managed to fit in everything on our family’s wish list.
“From the minute we breathe in the fresh sea air, we know we’re on holiday.”
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
161
Sun, Sand, and Castles:
Dunedin’s Outdoor Fun The Otago Peninsula is like an outdoor arena for the family that loves to commune with nature. We were delighted by the stunning white beaches, with huge sand dunes just waiting to be explored. Our Facebook expert was delighted with the highquality surf beaches in the area, not to mention the associated surfing experts! One of our favourites was Tunnel Beach, with its charming story of fatherly protection, and the sneaky peek at the yellow-eyed penguins. But the highlight was high tea at the only castle in New Zealand. (Thank goodness we packed the tiara!)
Nature’s Wonders: Take an exhilarating tour on an allterrain vehicle to view some of the most spectacular scenery and incredible wildlife at Taiaroa Head, Otago Peninsula. Spot seals, sea lions, penguins, and more! Tunnel Beach: Tiptoe down the limestone tunnel to the most beautiful beach imaginable. Feel like you are in a Victorian novel and visit the stunning and evocative Tunnel Beach, where, in the 1870s, John Cargill, a son of Captain William Cargill, excavated a tunnel down to a secluded beach so that the Cargill families could bathe in privacy. Sandfly Bay: Just off the high road is the fabulous Sandfly Bay, where you can pretend that you are in the desert! The dunes are like visiting another planet: so high and so vast, with pretty blonde sea lions dotted along the beach or snoozing in the tussock.
Larnach Castle: Visit NZ’s only castle and walk the beautiful grounds and gardens of international significance before heading off to the ultimate afternoon treat: high tea at the castle, every day at 3pm. Penguin Place: Sneak through the unique system of hides and tunnels and see undisturbed penguin activity up close.
Taieri Gorge Railway: One of the world’s great train trips. It departs daily from the spectacular Dunedin Railway station and journeys through the rugged and spectacular Taieri Gorge. St Clair Beach and the Hot Salt Water Pools: Soak in the open-air public swimming pool, heated during the summer months, at St Clair Beach. An iconic surfing beach complete with boulevard, cafes, bars, restaurants, sandcastles, and sunshine. Aaahhh.
City Adventures We found that Dunedin seems to have more than its fair share of engaging activities for kids of all ages; the added bonus is that they are pretty compelling for adults too! The city is perfectly formed for walking between attractions, with cafés and retail stops along the way. The win/ win arrangement for our family proved to be the Cadbury Chocolate Fall, part of the Cadbury Factory Tour; it proved to be well worth a month of doing t he dishes. The Otago Museum: A family activity haven; we checked out the Victorian animal attic, housed in the oldest section of this brilliant museum, and found polar bears, monkeys, beetles, turtles, and lots more. Discovery World is a brilliant hands-on interactive science centre that provides hours of fun! The Tropical Forest at the Otago Museum: A magical must-see. We came face-to-face with some of the most beautiful butterflies, not to mention the odd tarantula or two, in this three-story tropical rainforest. Cadbury Factory Tour: One of Dunedin’s iconic businesses; we stepped inside and inhaled the chocolaty goodness on the factory tour, were amazed by the waterfall of chocolate, then exited via the gift shop! Yum. Dunedin’s Botanic Gardens: We fed the ducks and grabbed a coffee at the oldest botanic gardens in New Zealand, where you can explore the Rhododendren Dell, discover the bird aviary at the top of the hill, and soak up the ambience and birdsong of wild native bellbirds, wood pigeons, and tui. Great playground, and gorgeous Peter Pan–themed sculptures too.
necessarily at the same time. Within a very easy walking distance, Dunedin boasts a vast selection of designer boutiques, artisan jewellery workshops, trusty department stores, and High Street stores for the essentials of modern-day life. Thoughtful town planning has allowed many world-class refreshment stops along the way: the numerous cafés, restaurants and boutique bars are welcome retreats to refuel and sort through bags of glorious shopping. The Asian on Moray Place has very tasty Chinese dishes that are incredibly well priced; tables are complete with Lazy Susans and massive menus! Museum Café at the Otago Museum has plenty of space for play and discovery, accompanied by fabulous coffee and cabinet food. Angus Desserts and Café on George Street is an ideal central city stopover for hungry shoppers and their families.
The Best Bit We found, to our delight, that interspersed throughout the city centre are some of the country’s finest art galleries, libraries, theatres and exhibition spaces that offer contemporary and traditional visual treats for those wanting a culture fix, not to mention the fabulous coffee scene. Yes, that certainly ticked the adults’ non-negotiable box, and is another story entirely! To our delight, our family holiday this year was a kaleidoscopic week of exciting discoveries, relaxing outdoor time, shopping, feasting, and all we could ever have hoped for (and then some). Our family’s advice would be to plan your Dunedin holiday and add another three days to make time to explore the treasures you uncover. Then, get ready to start planning your next trip to Dunedin on your journey home!
Rob Roy Dairy on George Street boasts the biggest ice creams in town! Best Café on Stuart Street has the most delicious fish and chips ever in authentically retro surrounds. The Bay Café on the Otago Peninsula features a brilliant kids menu, seafood chowder, and delicious cabinet food, as well as playground and an inviting beach nearby. Speight’s Ale House features a fantastic tour of historic brewery. Afterwards, we ended up at the ale house for a great pub meal and enjoyed tasty food and great service in terrific pub surroundings.
Baldwin Street: Try counting the steps of the world’s steepest street and venue of the famous Cadbury Jaffa Race. We couldn’t believe that one hardy local runs up and down this street 30, yes 30 times a day! Hair Raiser Ghost Tour: The fabulous local guides take you on a journey through the snickleways of haunted Victorian Dunedin, a great way to find out the history and stories of the city. Dinosaur Park at St Kilda Beach: Kids can their bikes and scooters for a spin around the track or enjoy a quick round of mini-golf. Not the sixteen-yearold, of course; she hopped over the sand dunes and practised her hair-flicking on unsuspecting local surfers!
Feeding the Soul & the Troops
We found that there were extensive school holiday programmes in place throughout the city for all term breaks. Activities are scheduled every holiday period, so our advice is to check them out when you visit: you never know what exciting events are scheduled.
Our holiday would not have been complete without shopping bags over the crooks of our arms and wine in our hands – not www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
163
Fiordland
A REAL JOURNEY
Fiordland
It was an early start for someone who enjoys their Saturday morning lie in; however, it proved to be well worth it after experiencing Milford Sound (Piopiotahi) literally at my back door.
B
oarding the coach in Queenstown, with a cross section of families, honeymooners and retired couples, was a great start. The driver, Graham, was immediately accommodating and showed throughout the journey to be informative and helpful. He enjoyed what he was doing. The winding Devils Staircase is a spectacular drive and the mountains and lake make for awesome scenery. This amazing piece of highway takes us from Queenstown to Kingston.
164
First stop: Kingston, at the lake head, and it is all aboard the Kingston Flyer, a vintage steam train that plies the line between Fairlight and Kingston. A 15 kilometre journey on this old icon, and then it is back to the plush comfort of The Real Journeys coach. The coach is designed to give all passengers a view both above and sideways, with huge viewing windows.
and the light wind didn’t deter the float plane from taking off, happy travellers on board heading off into the mountains. A nice lunch of Southland Blue Cod at one of the many cafÊs and food outlets in Te Anau proved delightful. Mitch, my photographer, really enjoyed the Southland delicacy, even having a second helping on the journey home.
We rolled into Te Anau in time for lunch. There was a bright blue sky overhead,
Te Anau is a quaint town and enjoys abundant peace and quiet on the
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
That night I drifted off to sleep in my own bed, dreaming I was still rocking in my cabin on The Milford Mariner...
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
165
lakeside. It has some great accommodation options, and is an experience if one uses it as a launching pad to Milford Sound. Back on board, and it wasn’t long before Graham had us at Mirror Lakes. These small lakes are so reflective, as the name suggests, they make for some of the best photo opportunities. This was where we first encountered New Zealand’s native parrot, the Kea. This cheeky bird is fearless and is dangerous around motorbike seats, windscreen seals and anything that resembles rubber. They have a long hooked beak and can make a mess of seals and the like very quickly.
“The tunnel and the associated Milford Road were built by relief workers during the Depression, initially just five men using picks and wheelbarrows.” We arrive at The Homer Tunnel. William H. Homer and George Barber discovered the Homer Saddle on 27 January 1889, and Homer suggested that a tunnel through the saddle would provide access to the Milford area.
Government workers commenced work on the tunnel in 1935 after lobbying by J. Cockburn of the Southland Progress League, and a rough road to the eastern portal site was completed that year. The tunnel and the associated Milford Road were built by relief workers during the Depression, initially just five men using picks and wheelbarrows. The men had to live in tents in a mountainous area, seeing no direct sunlight for half of the year. At least three were killed by avalanches over the coming decades. 166
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
Progress was slow, with difficult conditions including fractures in the rock bringing water from snow melt into the tunnel. Compressors and a powerhouse in the nearby river were eventually built to pump out 40,000 litres of water each hour. Work was also interrupted by World War II (though the actual piercing of the mountain had successfully been achieved in 1940), and an avalanche in 1945 which destroyed the eastern tunnel portal. These challenges delayed the tunnel’s completion and opening until 1954. Emerging from the tunnel on the Milford side is spectacular. An amphitheatre of rock cliffs surround the road and the drive in toward the famous Mitre Peak is a great buzz to end the journey and prepare to board the Milford Mariner. The Milford Mariner is one option that Real Journeys offers in Fiordland. The company boasts a fleet of wonderful vessels that ply the Fiordland Sounds, and has overnight and extended trips available. The Milford Mariner sleeps 60 people, its private cabins with ensuite bathrooms another plus. The cabins are spotlessly clean, as is the whole vessel. The spacious viewing decks, dining salon, licensed bar and observation lounges make for comfortable cruising in all weather. We pulled out of Milford late afternoon
with time for an evening cruise, and it wasn’t long before we pulled the bow right in to the shore to observe a couple of young fur seals enjoying the late sunshine. Then it was bow in again to watch some Fiordland Crested penguins hopping around on the rocks, oblivious to all of the prying eyes on board. The vessel is quiet and unobtrusive, and the wildlife do not stress at all. All the voyages have an on board nature guide who is very informative
and helpful, offering commentaries and an evening show that gives nature lovers a wealth of information and a real insight into this special part of New Zealand. Milford Sound makes you feel like you are so small; even the water expanse is dwarfed by the rising rock cliffs that rise to amazing heights out of the water. The waterfalls cascade relentlessly and some even appear to be weeping.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
167
“The faces and cliffs offer some of nature’s finest sculptures; the luxuriant rainforest clings to sheer rock walls washed with waterfalls.” After a great breakie it is up on deck to spot some more wildlife. Two red deer are standing right out on the rock point leading into the Tasman Sea. They are down for an early morning pick on the greens that grow near the shoreline. I head up to the bridge where Captain Chris has welcomed anyone who wants to see the view from there and ask him a few questions. The Captain is another mine of knowledge, having spent his life in and around the Fiordland coast, and able to offer up information on the vessel, the surroundings and old stories from the region. This level of access to crew and staff make this type of experience very special.
I was becoming quite peckish and was happy when the boat tied onto its mooring in Harrison Cove for the night. For some, it was a kayaking expedition; others chose the easier option of a ride in the tenders for an up close and personal with some seals and wildlife. It was down for a couple of beers after a freshen up in the cabin and then into a delicious three course buffet brilliantly prepared on board. Graham, the coach driver, was even helping on board. It was evident that the entire team from Real Journeys was a group of real multi-taskers – one minute serving beer and the next piloting the tender. They are also willing to assist and provide information on the
168
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
surroundings and everything to do with the vessel. After dinner it was a stroll on the deck, then off to my cosy cabin and even cosier bed. Waking up to a rooster crow through the PA was a laugh, but we were told breakfast was going to be served and it was ablutions and up to the salon. Waking up in such stunning surroundings, in the heart of Te Wahipounamu World Heritage area, is quite surreal. The faces and cliffs offer some of nature’s finest sculptures; the luxuriant rainforest clings to sheer rock walls washed with waterfalls. And the whole area seems to be watched over by the commanding Mitre Peak.
It was some more cruising, seals and penguins, bow into some big waterfalls to obtain the blessing from the spray, and then all too soon back to the dock. Leaving after an experience like that has only whetted my appetite for a longer cruise. Maybe one day soon I will take another Real Journeys overnighter. The trip back was broken up with a visit to Marion Falls and another lunch in Te Anau. That night I drifted off to sleep in my own bed, dreaming I was still rocking in my cabin on The Milford Mariner.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
169
The Catlins
Untouched World
the catlins by Georgie Whittaker
The Catlins
Having lived in Queenstown for two years, I’ve been listening to tourists and locals alike talking about the Catlins. Their stories of beautiful untouched landscape and their stunning photographs of the rugged coast intrigued me; I vowed that I would take a trip down there and see for myself. Finally, I found an opportunity to embark on my south-eastern adventure, and what an adventure it was.
O
n a frosty spring day, I packed up my camper van and off I went. The drive from the southern lakes district takes about three and a half to four hours, driving through the beautiful Central Otago landscape, then onto the rolling hills of Roxborough and down into the township of Balclutha. From there, the start of the Catlins is around a twenty minute drive. My first stop was the small township of Owaka. Due to my excitement and anticipation, I chose not to stop, and I was ravenous by the time I reached the Catlins Café in Owaka. Walking into the café, the first thing that drew me in was the log burner surrounded by comfy couches and scattered with interesting books about the area and its people. The next was the friendly service; I was greeted by Aileen, who owned the café with her husband, Steve. After a good introduction and a bit of a chat, it was on to the menu.
170
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
The Catlins Café has an extensive menu, from nibbles and starters to highland steaks and fresh seafood; I really was spoilt for choice. I decided to go for the salt and pepper squid served on a fresh salad with a lime aioli. It was divine, squid as it should be: crispy and tender. The salad was colourful and fresh, and the creamy lime sauce was the perfect complement.
Having washed my meal down with a cold beer, I felt very content. After some lounging on the couches and making myself quite at home I decided it was time I headed to my final destination of the day: the Pounawea Motor camp, a very easy five minute drive from the café. It was dark driving up to the reception, but the friendly staff directed me to a site.
After a very peaceful night’s sleep, I decided to take a stroll around the campsite. To step out of the camper and be a mere two-minute stroll to the sea was a refreshing and much needed change from living in landlocked Central Otago. Back on the road again, I felt a little hungry, and the Owaka Café was so enjoyable that I decided to go back for breakfast. After a good southern fry up and a cup of coffee, I took a trip to the Owaka Museum. The Museum captures the essence of the Catlins: it provides an insight into life in the area, from economic and industrial perspectives during the forestry boom, to wild seas and famous shipwrecks. My favourite exhibition, however, was one written by local school children on important people of the Catlins, which gave a real insight into the closeness of this small community.
“The weather in the Catlins is unpredictable but the wildness of it adds to the feel of the place.”
According to Steph at the museum, the weather in the Catlins is unpredictable, but the wildness of it adds to the feel of the place. Steph suggested I go straight out to Nugget Point while the sun was out, as a rather large front was forecast for the afternoon. The walk to Nugget Point from the car park took about twenty minutes. There is a lot to keep you occupied on this walk: small plaques with interesting quotes on them, a fur seal colony down to the left of the track, and amazing views. But the best view of all can be found at the lighthouse at the end of the track. There you can get a breathtaking view of “The Nuggets”: wave-eroded rocks that look like giant golden nuggets appearing from the sea. Steph wasn’t wrong in her forecast; from the viewing platform, I could see ominous black clouds on the horizon. I took this as my cue to walk back and head to the next vista on my itinery.
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
171
I had heard many times that I must see the Parakaunui Falls Scenic Reserve. The falls are located about a twenty-minute drive from Owaka, and are an easy ten-minute stroll from the car park through stunning native bush. The falls are a spectacular cascade of water dropping over three tiers of rock. You really have to experience them for yourself to realise their beauty. When I left the the falls, the weather really started to come in: the rain was heavy and the clouds were thick. Back in the van I headed to Mohua Park, where I was staying for the night. As I pulled into the driveway, the first thing I saw was a beautiful old villa. I walked up to the house to be greeted by Fergus Sutherland. He and his wife, Mary, warmly invited me in for a cup of coffee, which I very much needed after the day’s ventures. After a quick chat, it was dinner time. Beautiful paintings of shipwrecks lined the dining room walls – I later found out these were by Fergus himself. He is an avid artist and conservationist, not to mention a great storyteller. They served a delicious venison stew with purple potatoes, peas and carrots (a lot which is grown on Fergus and Mary’s property). The food was excellent, and there was plenty of it; you have the option of having the Sutherlands cook for you on your stay at Mohua Park, and I highly recommend it.
“You really have to experience the falls for yourself to realise their beauty.” After dinner, I sat with Fergus and we spoke about the area and watched some great clips about life in the Catlins. It was evident that he had a huge passion for the area and he was an excellent source of knowledge. As the night drew to a close, I headed back to the camper van. As the winds howled and the rain came down, a little part of me feared I was going to be blown down the valley, but the camper stayed put. The next morning, after breakfast with the Sutherlands, Fergus gave us a bit of a tour of his property. With ten hectares of native bush, you could spend all day walking around the property. However, I 172
www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com
0.25 AD
was on a bit of a timeframe, so Fergus took me for a short loop through the bush, talking of the flora and fauna and explaining the ecosystem of the bush and its inhabitants. If you look really carefully you can even see a Tuatara. After our walk, we headed to the cottages. At Mohua Park, there are four energy efficient luxury eco cottages. Due to their love of nature, the Sutherlands named them after native birds: Riroriro, Korimako, Kahu, and Karearea. They are completely self-contained and completely private, each with different interior styling and all with to-die-for views (I expect it would be very hard to leave them). In addition to these accommodations, the Sutherlands also offer a selection of
packages, including a guided eco-tour and a traverse walk. They are amazing hosts and I would recommend that anyone who is thinking of travelling the Catlins visit Fergus and Mary. Unfortunately, my trip was coming to an end. After leaving Mohua Park, I headed south on the Southern Scenic Route, driving home toward Queenstown along the coast via Invercargill. I stopped in at a coffee shop for a cheese roll (a South Island delicacy) and a cup of tea. Sitting there, I started planning my next Catlins visit. Next time, I hope I get a chance to don a wetsuit and get a surf lesson with the pros down in Cannibal bay.
Discover your inner camper… here.
Or here,
here,
here, and here…
doc.govt.nz/camping If you haven’t met your inner camper yet, chances are it’s relaxing at, or exploring, one of over 200 DOC campsites. Inner campers can be a bit picky, so DOC caters to a range of campers and camping styles; from lush forest settings, to sandy beaches and shimmering lake locations. Camp in scenic surroundings from as little as $6 per adult per night. So what are you waiting for? Discover your inner camper!