Fashion

The talented Mr Simpson Designer Scott Fraser Simpson shares with Anthony Pearce the inspiration behind his latest collection

Twenty-one years after Anthony Minghella’s The Talented Mr Ripley first aired in cinemas, Dickie Greenleaf, the insouciant, debonair heir to a shipbuilding company, remains a style icon. Played by Jude Law, the character’s summer knitwear shirt has become the stuff of legend, an item worth obsessing over, as Scott Simpson, a 30-year-old Londonbased designer who has meticulously recreated the piece, agrees. During lockdown in the UK, Simpson kept busy by expanding his offering under Scott Fraser Collection, a fashion house since 2013, by honing in on the minute details of Greenleaf’s style. “I devoted a lot of my time to developing this new Mr Ripley knit,” he tells me over the phone from his house in Crystal Palace, a leafy area in southeast London known for its vintage furniture shops. “I really went over and above, making sure that every element of it was as true or accurate to the film as possible, taking it to that extra level and going deeper on the technical side, the neck, the weave, the feel, the colouring. It’s kept me busy.”

The result, the first in the Icon series, is the Ripley Ischia and Ripley Anzio knit shirts, made in Milan, using a fine-gauge 100 per cent Merino wool. The former has a soft yellow waffled main body, off-white front panels, with two pockets set on the waist, while the latter has a white body and grey-blue textured front panels, which are set between strong striped detailed lines. The collection, unsurprisingly, has already proved a hit – garnering column inches in the Financial Times,GQ and The Wall Street Journal – but there is plenty to admire about Simpson’s output as a whole. His global outlook provides inspiration, while all items are made to order and closely controlled in London. “I grew up in Asia and my dad, whose name is Fraser, would take me to all sorts of places around the Hong Kong back streets, seeing the tailors where [a shirt] would cost the same to be made to order than to just go and buy it. So I’ve always kind of grown up around the idea of working with people to create something – I took that principle and rolled with it.”

The Scott Fraser Collection began as a pet project, more out of personal obsessions than a desire to make money, says Simpson, who has a “huge” collection of Italian knitwear. It all started with a bag “which was something that I needed but I wanted to make for myself,” he says. “From there, I worked with leather makers, manufacturers and jacket makers; I then moved over to making shirts and trousers knitwear.”

The mantra for the collection is Retrospective Modernism – the idea of “basically taking references from the past, then reinterpreting them, but keeping an element of respect throughout”. According to the brand’s website, “The aim of the collection is not to replicate pieces from yesterday,

but to reinterpret these timeless icons of design, using them as a source of inspiration for today-ready clothing, luggage and accessories.”

While Greenleaf’s style is that of Jazz Age on the Italian Riviera, Simpson takes inspiration from across cultures and eras. “There’s [inspiration from] 30s, 40s and 50s Hollywood greats from the Golden Age; you’ve got that Ivy League look, which is like that collegiate 40s and 50s look – some would say it’s a preppy look. That is very much part of … Mr Ripley, which other characters [aside from Greenleaf] wear.

“It’s an amalgamation of deep dives into sort of subcultures from the past from which I’ve pulled out elements: the Jazz Age, late 50s and 60s sort-of styling; Mod and rockabilly.”

One of the staples of the brand are wide-legged trousers, which are inspired by the Windrush generation – the first West Indians who made their way from the Caribbean to settle in the UK after the Second World War.

During the lockdown, Simpson found that customers reached out to learn more about the brand, while he has spent time working and reworking designs. This has necessitated finding new ways of working with manufacturers. In more normal times, Simpson spends his days cruising around London on his Vespa and to the studio, located just off Shoreditch’s tree-lined Arnold Circus – a collection of red-brick, turn-of-the-century social housing, and “from factory to fabric supplier to maker to meeting”.

“I’m very blessed,” says Simpson of the brand’s growing popularity and the attention the Ripley collection has attracted. “It’s working really well, and there are more things to come. I plan to bring out more rare limited collections and work to a grow more bespoke options.”

Summer style

Frankie Anderson picks the must-have items in men’s fashion this season

Brunello Cucinelli suede espadrilles, £490

These brown suede espadrilles from the Italian luxury fashion brand Brunello Cucinelli are set on comfortable rubber soles, making them perfect for relaxing on deck or heading out exploring. Mr Porter adds that the striped grosgrain gives them added nautical appeal. MRPORTER.COM

Cotton linen drawstring Sunspel shorts, £145

Established in 1860, Sunspel, founded in Nottingham in the UK (but now based over the border in Derbyshire), makes timeless wardrobe essentials. These drawstring shorts are an exquisite example of this dedication to highquality fabrics and minimalist design. SUNSPEL.COM

Ballon Bleu de Cartier automatic 18-karat pink gold and alligator watch, £13,900

At the turn of the century, King Edward VII of Great Britain referred to Cartier as “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers,” and not much has changed in regards to the French luxury brand’s standing or quality since. The watch has been manufactured in Switzerland with a polished 18-karat pink gold case and features a silver guilloché dial, blue steel hands and protected spinel topped with a sapphire cabochon. MRPORTER.COM

Camp collar print shirts

Variously called camp, Cuban or cabin collar, these short-sleeved shirts are a summer must-have – light and casual enough for the beach but smart enough for dining. We’ve picked out some of our favourites for this season. Clockwise from top left: a camp collar floral-print linen shirt from Bolognabased fashion house 120% (£147, MrPorter.com); simple and elegant Cuban collar linen-blend shirt from British brand Folk (£110, Matchesfashion.com); Dolce & Gabbana’s show-stopping shell-print cotton-blend shirt (£745, Matchesfashion.com); Officine Générale’s Dario leaf-print cotton-seersucker shirt (£97, Matchesfashion.com); and Onia’s vacation camp collar striped linen shirt (£77, Matchesfashion.com).

Wear it well

Victoria Collis rounds up the women’s wardrobe essentials for the season

Lola Hats Snap First Aid raffia hat, £249

A timeless style updated with a chic wider brim – this raffia hat is the perfect complement to a hot sunny day, whether spent on deck or wandering around port. MYTHERESA.COM

Jil Sander: Metallic-orb flat wraparound sandals, £440

This classic wraparound sandal is elevated by its modern metallic detailing, making it suitable for evening or daytime. If you need to pack light, then these Jil Sander sandals are a great option – perfect for any occasion.

MATCHESFASHION.COM

Bottega Veneta: The Pouch, £6,165

The bag on everybody’s wish list has had a summer update. Handwoven from tubular Nappa, each piece has a unique finish, while the magnetic frame ensures a seamless, fuss-free close. The vibrant hues mean this Bottega will be the talk of whatever town you are in. BOTTEGAVENETA.COM

La Double J: La Scala top, £385, & Hendrix pants, £380

With its bright graphic prints and marabou feather trim, this two-piece is nothing if not fun. The flattering flair kick gives off a vintage silhouette, perfect for a retro look on a summer getaway. Either dress the pants down with an oversized white shirt or dress them up with the matching top. LADOUBLEJ.COM

Mara Hoffman Arabella off-the shoulder ruffle dress, £715

Is there anything more flattering than an off-theshoulder midi dress? This Mara Hoffman number is made from hemp, considered to be one of the world’s most environmentally friendly materials. It offers a natural protection from UV light and is form-flattering, too. MATCHESFASHION.COM

Jacquemus Bahia tie-front cotton jaquard shirt, £390

Every summer wardrobe needs some Jacquemus in it. This white shirt is the piece that will elevate every look. The loose twisted tie detail accentuates the waist, while the plunging neckline allows plenty of room to frame layered gold necklaces. NET-A-PORTER.COM

Adriana Degreas: Majorelle halterneck belted swimsuit, £244.09

Brazilian designer Adriana Degreas has crafted a striking and flattering silhouette for this royalblue swimsuit. The plunging neckline and highcut legs create an elongating effect, while the coordinating belt brings definition to the waist.

NET-A-PORTER.COM

Emilia Wickstead: Reggie High-Rise Pleated Linen Shorts, £480

High-waisted and long in length, Emilia Wickstead’s linen shorts offer style and comfort. Neat pintuck pleats promote a loose fit, while the linen fabric will keep you cool on hot days. For complete coordination, wear them with the matching shirt and heeled mules. MATCHESFASHION.COM