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two worlds clyde

Christine Cameron enjoys a Glasgow ci break in the slow lane aboard her 57 ‘nolly barge’

Last year proved a particularly ustrating one for Sco ish boaters, and not just because of Covid-related restrictions. The breach of the Union Canal near Muiravonside put that waterway out of action, while on the Forth & Clyde it was weed growth which made cruising problematic.

Having spent the last seven years working on our boat, however, we were itching to take it out. It’s a 57 ‘nolly barge’ (the word ‘nolly’ is what local kids used to call the canal), which was originally used as a children’s trip-boat. It had subsequently been stripped out and, by the time we bought it, was li le more than a shell. We’ve slowly built it up and were keen that one of our fi rst trips would be a cruise into Glasgow ci centre to see the new skyline and enjoy the bright lights.

Birthday treat

Last autumn we fi nally got our chance. A er Sco ish Canals cleared the channel of weed, we set o for an overnight trip om Lambhill Stables on a beautiful, sunny morning. The occasion coincided with my granddaughter’s birthday, so she and her husband accompanied me and husband Neil on the boat.

Although there wasn’t much in the way of boat tra c on the trip, the wildlife was abundant. All along the canal ducks, moorhens, crows, pigeons and swans were busy hunting for food, while in the brambles we spo ed a bunting devouring the last of the berries. We had been told that on this stretch of the water there was a strong possibili of seeing kingfi shers, but although we kept our eyes peeled we saw no sign of one. Leaves fallen om the overhanging trees made the water refl ection look like a painting, and the horse chestnuts added further to the natural beau , being among the fi rst to change into their autumnal colours.

“Although there wasn’t much in the way of boat tra c, the wildlife was abundant”

Stockingfield Junction

Other points of interest in the early stage of the trip included some old, rusting steel safe gates. They had been installed during World War II to prevent water fl ooding Glasgow in the event that Stockingfi eld Aqueduct was damaged by bombs. A second set of stop locks was also installed at Firhill, and a third set was built at the Craighall Road Narrows near Speirs Wharf.

A er this the canal splits: Glasgow is to the le , or you can go through Maryhill Locks to Bowling by turning right. There are plans for two new bridges across the canal here at Stockingfi eld Junction to improve access for walkers and cyclists. Work had just started but it will not be completed until autumn.

The passage to Bowling through Maryhill Locks was not yet open due to weed problems and issues with the drop lock at Dalmuir. An interesting historical titbit about this stretch is that, during World War I, barges moored on the canal at Maryhill were turned into barracks to provide accommodation for soldiers.

The once-derelict Claypits area, which now forms part of a wider regeneration effort in north Glasgow.

Remains of the WWII safety gates at Stockingfi eld Junction.

Cruising the outskirts of Glasgow.

But we turned left and cruised past Firhill Basin and Partick Thistle’s football ground. There are new moorings constructed along the bank and work is ongoing to turn the derelict Claypits area into a recreational facility and nature reserve.

Pleasing panorama

By now we were in the heart of the city, with the spires from the art gallery, Italian towers and university coming into view. We passed Ruchill with its famous Rennie Mackintosh church, the Nolly Bridge and continued through the new bridge at Garscube, which had only just been opened. It was built to connect the communities of Panmure Gate and Woodside, and to give residents access to an urban nature reserve in the heart of Glasgow.

As we entered the basin at Applecross Street we were treated to a panoramic view of the city. As a child, I remember coming down to Glasgow from Fort William and seeing the city covered in smog. The sky on our arrival was wonderfully clear, however, although traffic along the M8 thunders through the city.

The most prominent building is the converted warehouse at Speirs Wharf. The old cobble stones along the dock remind the walker of times past and different modes of transport. All along the wharf are a variety of colourful boats, some pristine and others, like the John Hume, in need of a bit of TLC and a lick of paint.

The canal doesn’t end here but continues for a short distance to Port Dundas, where it used to meet the Monkland Canal (which went to Coatbridge). Unfortunately this was filled in when they built the motorway. Hopefully, it will one day be developed into an attractive destination for residential and visiting boats.

As we retired for the night, we looked out over the beautiful reflection of the moon on the water. The next day we would rise early and head back to our home mooring at Auchinstarry, but for a few hours more this city was still ours. Its twinkling lights certainly brought our short, 4-mile hop to a very happy conclusion.

Firhill Basin. A canalside mural in Ruchill, unveiled in 2019.

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