Riding the Ribble

IWA Trustee Nick Dybeck describes an eventful narrowboat journey on the Ribble Link, which opened 20 years ago this July

Leaving Tarleton Lock.

Breasted up on the River Douglas.

Since it opened in 2002 we’ve wanted to go up the Ribble Link, which connects the Ru ord Arm of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal at Tarleton to the Lancaster Canal at Savick Brook, via the tidal rivers Douglas and Ribble. The crossing is billed as ‘exciting’ by the Lancaster Canal Trust, and the Canal & River Trust Skipper Guide warns of strong tidal fl ows, sandbanks and the risk of the boat being rocked om side to side. It also reminds you that you must have an anchor ready for deployment, lifejackets are required to be worn at all times, fl ares are recommended, and your engine must be up to it. It’s not your average trip on a fl at canal pound. But, if you’re well prepared and follow the guidance, surely there aren’t likely to be any surprises...

A er a couple of last-minute postponements, CRT phoned as we set o om Scarisbrick Marina on a glorious sunny Monday a ernoon to reach the rendezvous point in Tarleton. We guessed they’d be checking we were prepared for our Wednesday lunchtime departure but, no. “Could we make it there by fi rst thing Tuesday?” they asked.

Tackling seven locks over 10 miles in the few hours before sunset meant we were slightly apprehensive about ge ing there in time. But it was a sunny evening, the countryside was beautiful and we had plen of emergency provisions on board.

Camaraderie

Arriving in Tarleton early the next morning, it became apparent that fi ve other boats had also had late nights or very early starts. One of the best things about boating on the inland waterways is meeting people, and on an adventure such as the Ribble Link the conversations start easily – nervous enquiries about weather conditions, seeking reassurance about safe kit, sharing advice on engine checks, exchanging stories of previous tidal experiences, o ers of assistance should things go wrong. The fi rst timers, like us, hung on every word of the Ribble Link regulars. We enjoyed the mutual support and camaraderie in anticipation of a shared challenge.

To calm our nerves, CRT’s lock-keepers Roger and Harry explained what to look out for, who to keep in contact with, and where to turn to avoid going aground. “You’ll be against the incoming tide down the River Douglas so look out for Asland Lamp at which point it should be a slack tide; turn right up the Ribble as the tide turns against you; a er a couple of miles look out for the muddy banks of Savick Brook where CRT will be waiting to take you through the locks,” came the advice. It all sounded quite routine.

The entrance to Savick Brook.

Boating partner

We were paired up with Cathy, Maurice and Stephen on Pan 91 who had some concerns about their engine and cooling system. But, having done the crossing before, they knew what lay ahead. During the final preparations, Roger emphasised the need to hit full power on leaving the lock or else we’d be swept into the bank by the incoming tide.

With smiles on our faces and fond farewells of “see you on the other side”, the lock gates opened. Pan 91 was out and the muddy rush of water was in front of us. Plenty of power was engaged, we shot out of the lock, and suddenly… we were going nowhere. The banks stood still as the water rushed past, and I opened the throttle still further. Very slowly we headed downriver against the incoming tide.

For a while all was well, we kept our distance from Pan 91 and steered carefully to keep the bow straight against the flow and to avoid the occasional huge log that came towards us at alarming speed. Before long though, we started gaining ground on Pan 91 and it was clear that something was wrong.

Tying together

Their engine was overheating despite them throttling back and running the hot taps. We pondered their options together over the phone: turning back, going even slower, towing, anchoring. We decided to go abreast – tie the boats together – for a while and hope Pan 91’s engine would cool before ours overheated. We carefully rehearsed the transition, and when the moment came to secure the craft together, it all went smoothly.

So now we were five crew on two connected boats in the middle of a wide muddy river, excited that we’d solved a problem, but anxious about how long it would last. Gradually the river widened, the tide slackened, we were making good progress, and we realised that both engines were coping admirably with the load. The ropes were also holding tight.

We reached the mouth of the River Douglas at the Asland Lamp just as the boats coming down the Ribble Link arrived, together with a sailing boat tacking across our path. The tide was swirling and pushing us around, we were abreast to another narrowboat, and we were about to turn out of one river current into another. We kept our eye on the sailing boat, throttled back, turned the bow and, in a beautifully choreographed move, we comfortably passed each other.

“Now we were five crew on two connected boats in the middle of a wide muddy river”

Savick Brook

Cruising up the River Ribble the tide had turned and once again logs and frothy debris were coming at us. Thankfully there was plenty of room in the wide river, which was a blessing when it came to disengaging from Pan 91. Progress against the flow was painfully slow but, with a few hundred metres to go, the ropes were released and we were on our own again. Very quickly the gap between us grew and we hoped they’d make it on their own.

At the marker for Savick Brook, we were careful to account for the flow of the river and to avoid the sandbanks by keeping to the centre of the narrow channel. It was comforting to see the CRT staff on the bank as they kept a watchful eye, counting boats back in. After the thrill of fast-moving water and the noise and vibration from engines on full power, all of a sudden we found ourselves with the engine on tickover, in calm tranquil water between pastures of grazing cattle. The sea lock and the flat pound beyond it were ‘just round the corner’.

“That was a great adventure,” we said to each other as we quickly recapped the highlights and the excitement of ‘rescuing’ a fellow traveller. But (and I hope this doesn’t spoil it for other first timers), that was only half of it.

Cruising company

There was a concrete structure ahead of us where the flow constricted still further, steep banks rose above us and round the next sharp bend, to our surprise, was another boat. Salamanca was moored on a pontoon among the reeds, but where had it come from? As we moored up alongside the boat, we met its owner, Dave, who’d been diverted up to Preston Docks, having arrived at Savick Brook too late to catch the right depth of water the day before.

We soon set off again and found the strong downstream flow a challenge, especially in the deep channel with reeds and trees each side. We received some sound advice later from Dave, who explained it was best to use just enough power to make headway. It was with great relief that we saw Pan 91 arrive at the first lock, having made it off the tidal river.

Staircase locks

The narrow channel continued with a few more locks, and we were then on to another eagerly anticipated point in the journey. Narrowboats aren’t easy to steer in reverse and approaching locks always requires some careful manoeuvring, so it was with some trepidation that we headed into the Ribble Link’s massive staircase flight backwards, as instructed.

Being at the bottom of a very deep staircase lock with water behind the gate 20ft or so above you and the sheer sides holding back the ground, you appreciate the engineering required to design and build something this big. We were grateful to once again be in the capable hands of CRT lockkeepers, this time Stephen and Ian.

Success

Emerging from the top lock into the picturesque basin after a fivehour journey, we felt a real sense of achievement. It hadn’t been physically tough, thanks to the CRT volunteers and staff at the locks, and the good weather made the exposed estuary reasonably benign. Having been fairly well prepared, our anxieties about breaking down or not getting to the sea lock in time were allayed. So, I guess the sense of achievement comes from having completed a journey that simply wasn’t possible until 2002.

What made it special for me, particularly on the second part of the adventure, was admiring the imaginations of those who had dreamt up the audacious idea: making use of a narrow tidal brook for 62ft boats, reversing into locks, maintaining much of the character of the brook with its twists and turns, trees and reeds, creating a pleasant walking and cycling route for the local community. Not only did they have the creativity to design it, they stuck with the idea for many years, eventually secured the funding and then saw it built.

Leaving the basin, we heard that two of the boats that left Tarleton after us ran out of time and were diverted up to Preston. Even though it went okay for us and we had the comfort of knowing there’s a safety plan in place, it was the unknowns that made it an adventure.

As we sailed off into the sunset, we reflected on a wonderful day on the waterways. From the calm tranquility of the canal, to the excitement of a tidal stretch in an estuary, through an inspiring modern link, and back onto an 18thcentury gem. And we looked forward to a spell on the Lancaster Canal and to the return trip down the Ribble Link.

Tranquil pastures on both sides of Savick Brook.

Reversing into the staircase locks.

Moored on the Lancaster Canal.

Ten minutes with… IWA Trustee Nick Dybeck

How did you get involved with IWA?

I was appointed IWA Trustee in 2020, but I’m fairly new to the organisation having joined just six months before. I’ve always had an interest in the inland waterways and have owned a narrowboat for 20-odd years. It’s only since I retired that I’ve had time to volunteer as well.

What made you put yourself forward for the role of Trustee?

After joining IWA I received a copy of Waterways in which was a call for people to get involved. The way the Association was selecting the Trustees was changing to a skills-based approach. I was a civil engineer for many years and thought my experience matched what IWA was looking for, so I put myself forward and waited to see what happened.

What was it like joining the team mid-pandemic?

It took around a year after I was appointed, along with a number of other Trustees, before we had any physical meetings. It was really strange getting to know people I’d never met before online via Zoom.

What have you been working on?

Very soon after my appointment it became clear to me that IWA wants to move in a slightly different direction. The pandemic focussed the public’s attention on to the canals and rivers and IWA, ahead of the curve, had already been trying to widen the appeal of the waterways for biodiversity, walking, paddleboarding, all sorts. There’s massive potential for people to join in our campaigns if we get the messages out there.

Although I initially thought my civil engineering background would be of use, it has actually been my experience of working with companies going through change that has been most relevant so far. Any process of change takes time, but if we can get to the point where IWA is clear about its campaigns and what it wants for the waterways and is articulating that to the outside world through new and existing channels of communication, that would be a major step forward.

Why is change so important?

It’s important that IWA hangs onto and is proud of its history. It started off as a campaigning organisation that had a very clear focus and we need to retain that determination to see a cause through. People on the waterways tend to be quite independently minded, but we mustn’t let change stifle their imagination or enthusiasm. We’ve got to see through the boring aspects of change so that people can be freed up and allowed to bring the focus back to campaigning for the waterways. That’s what our purpose is.

Finally, you've been boating for many years but is there anywhere you'd still like to visit?

I would really love to go back to the Fens. I started life in Cambridgeshire and enjoyed canoeing on the River Nene, so it would be great to return to that part of the country and experience the Fenland waterways by narrowboat.