ISSUE 250
SPRING 2017
250TH COLLECTOR’S ISSUE V I N T A G E YA R N S ALBA ON SURF GOOCH PORTFOLIO
£5.95
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Alan Stokes enjoys another morning of tropical perfection during the Wavelength x Wild and Free Surf and Yoga Retreat in Costa Rica. Photo: Lewis Harrison-Pinder
W O R L D W I D E S U R F I N G A D V E N T U R E S F R O M N O R WAY T O I N D O N E S I A A N D E V E R Y W H E R E I N B E T W E E N .
PHOTO Courtesy Rip Curl
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Seems like every issue we've got something to shout about. That's not a bad thing, though. Only a few issue ago we were huffing out 35 candles on our magazine shaped cake and this time we're getting our party frocks on to the sound of our 250th issue rolling off the presses. If you've done the head math on that you'll already be arriving at the number 1981, yep, this lump of paper has been exciting surfer's eyeballs since the days of Ronald Reagan and Margret Thatcher. We've been in cold war fallout shelters, rolled up in the first Space Shuttle mission and sneaked into Bucks Fizz's Eurovision dressing room. Probably. We've seen Clinton impeached and Dolly cloned. Our office is full of slides, negatives, hard drives and cloudconnected servers. But that's the great thing about being crafted in the eighties. Our Millenial mag enjoys the unique equilibrium that only our generation can boast about. We're old enough to have grown up before the ever-connected digital world took hold of our social lives but young enough to understand it. We get it, but we don't rely on it. We’re just as happy reminiscing about the lost art of the mixtape as we are streaming a 400 song Spotify playlist across our wireless speakers, we've got photos on floppies and a full iPhone. So, although you might find one of our feet stubbornly planted in the good old days, our other is confidently striding into the future, embracing all that has yet to come, and right now, somewhere between the two, you'll find the latest issue of Wavelength, offering what we hope is a pleasurable surf focused experience that you can enjoy alongside the ever predictable social stream. So whether you're a Boomer, an X, one of us or a Z, get flicking and enjoy another slice of Wavelength history.
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CONTRIBUTORS Woody Gooch With a creative and alternative outlook on his subject matter, Australian photographer Woody has a foot firmly in the new school ring of surf photography with a collection of interesting angles and carefully crafted colourscapes. We doubt this will be the last time you see Woody’s progressive imagery in the pages of this magazine.
Mike Lay Mike Lay is a professional longboarder and hails from Sennen, in deepest South West Cornwall. He spearheads the relatively niche traditional longboarding movement within the UK, gaining international recognition within the scene in recent years and earning himself, amongst other accolades, an invitation to Joel Tudor's Duct Tape competition.
Richie Inskip Fifteen years in the boardsport industry is enough to drive anyone insane, but the passion never subsides. All dues fully paid up. After 20 years of beatings in the water and concrete, one might label Richie as a master of slams. Always looking for answers and never shy when it comes to the questions. Richie has worked with some of the biggest names in skateboarding and manages the surf side of things at Boardmasters. If you have not seen him in the water, chances are you have heard him.
Lewis Harrison-Pinder Editor
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RIDER MARK BOYD / PHOTOGRAPH MALCOLM ANDERSON LOCATION THURSO EAST / SCOTLAND
HEAD OFFICE EUROPE UK & EIRE, Alder Sportswear Limited, Lewdown, Okehampton, Devon EX20 4PJ, UK Tel +44 (0)1566 783444
www.aldersportswear.com
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Photo: jpvanswae
C O N T E N T S
CHRISTIAN IS A RARE HUMAN
Photo: James Warbey
FE AT URES
28 SICK
58 GOING FULL CIRCLE
A few top tips on avoiding death, disease and heartbreak on your next tropical vacation.
Discussing the lengthy and intertwined history of surf and skate with long time advocate of both disciplines, Steve Alba.
32 CREATING A MONSTER
66 TALL TALES
The social media age has created a surf industry that promotes marketability above talent. Discuss.
44 I SPEAK BECAUSE I CAN
Sophie Hellyer on the subject of the gender division in surfing from the outside in and vice versa.
A trip up (and down) memory lane from a selection of Wavelength’s past payroll.
76 SUMMER WETSUIT GUIDE
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The only rubber worth sweating over.
96 PORTFOLIO A selection of fine imagery from progressive photographer Woody Gooch.
46 A SHIFT IN MINDSET Mike Lay chats with Mitch Surman about the shift in the longboard competitive scene.
RE G U LARS 8 INTRO 10 PREVIEW 26 RECIPE 34 CONNECTED
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CO NT E NTS
Get cruising with new D Street boards
Kick Push
Walnut Wood - 28” x 7.25”
dstreetlongboards.com
Loose Lips
Cherry wood - 28” x 7.25”
Live Fast
Rose wood - 23” x 6”
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Jérémy Florès slides below the unmistakable combination of golden sands and perfect sunsets that make us all pine for those long days on the Côte d'Argent. Photo: Courtesty Quiksilver
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P R E VI E W
Nick Vasicek takes refuge from the Gold Coast sun in this beautifully backlit tube. Photo: Jesse Little
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Mr. Dane Reynolds. Photo: Alan Van Gysen
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Owen Wright punts himself into orbit, returning just to time to nail Snapper. Welcome back. Photo: Courtesy Rip Curl
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TOP LEFT On the rare days that it pumps, this spot truly embodies everything that's magical about surfing in Cornwall: fun hollow wedges groomed by biting winds, immense craggy cliff faces and a platoon of nosey seals who patrol the line up. Here's Newquay boy Gareth Llewellyn on such a day, snouting out a perfect drainer.
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TOP RIGHT Born in New Zealand to a Welsh mother, ex-QS surfer Jay Quinn has lived in Aus for a good portion of his life but now can be found in the depths of Cornwall, hunting for waves down narrow lanes in an old French campervan. Here he arrives at a corner suitable for a tail-high punt.
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MIDDLE After a morning of driving and spot checks, Jayce Robinson found himself navigating a typically Cornish line up, as big shifty peaks rolled through and invariably refused to open up as they collided with the shallow sandbar. After a few hours with little joy, Jayce was beginning to think about calling it a day. Then all of a sudden, the rain abided, the sun peaked through and a friendly looking lump made its way towards the beach. Jayce spun, popped to his feet, grabbed his rail and slid in, as the lump morphed into a picture perfect turquoise keg.
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TOP LEFT Jay Quinn again, who has been sampling the full spectrum of frustrations and delights of surfing in Cornwall since his arrival. Here, he enjoys the latter, nestled deep in a South Coast keg.
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MIDDLE Ben Skinner's some-what imposing frame bears no suggestion of the level of grace and poise the man can achieve once he steps foot into the sea. Here he is at his local, perched on the nose, cutting a defined shape through the Cornish mizzle.
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TOP RIGHT Liam Turner is one of the UK's most underrated surfers, with equal measures of power and flare. You can find him most days surfing in one of the deep coastal valleys that make up his local coastline in North Cornwall. Here he is taking to the air on a rampy insider at his favorite left-hand point on a rare sunny afternoon in February.
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DANE GUDAUSK AS VA N S . C O M
©2017, Vans Inc.
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Nineplus Braunton, North Devon: 01271 813300 | Nineplus Newquay, Cornwall: 01637 499239
A CREATIVE AGENCY WLMEDIA.CO.UK
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Curated By EDITOR Lewis Harrison-Pinder lewis@wlmedia.co.uk @unclepindy
PUBLISHED BY Wavelength Media LTD Tolcarne Beach, Narrowcliff Road Newquay TR7 2QN
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Colin Berwick colin@wlmedia.co.uk
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FOUNDING FATHER The late, great John Conway
COVER: Russell Bierke slots into a perfect cavern on the South Coast of Australia. Photo: Lance Morgan CONTRIBUTORS Alan Van Gysen, Alex Wade, Ben Selway, Bosko, Clara Jonas, James Warbey, Jesse Little, Leroy Fury, Mike Lay, Nick Pumphrey, Olivia Williams, Max Hepworth-Povey, Richie Inskip, Sam Lamiroy, Sophie Hellyer, Tim Nunn, Wink Lamiroy and Woody Gooch.
S T O C K I S T S DRIFT SURF SHOP 4 Station Building, Station Square Saltburn by the Sea TS12 1AQ 01287 626707 driftsurfshop.co.uk
NINEPLUS NEWQUAY 167 Henver Road, Newquay Cornwall TR7 3EJ 01637 499239 nineplus.com
SORTED SURF SHOP 42 Sea Road, Boscombe Bournemouth BH5 1BQ 01202 399099 sortedsurfshop.co.uk
FINISTERRE FALMOUTH 19 High Street, Falmouth Cornwall TR11 2AB 01326 318482 finisterre.com
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NO GUTS NO GLORY 125 Fore St, Exeter, Devon EX4 3JQ 01392 757179 ngngdesign.com
SURFED OUT 6 Caen Field Shopping Centre Braunton, Devon EX33 1EE 01271 812512 surfedout.com
FREERIDERS 15B Killigrew St, Falmouth Cornwall TR11 3PN 01326 313456 freeriders.co
NORTHSHORE 36 Fore St, Newquay Cornwall TR7 1LP 01637 850620 northshoresurfshop.co.uk
SURFING LIFE 2 Fore Street Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1LN 01637 859 400 surfinglifestore.com
GRANITE REEF 45 The Green, Aberdeen Scotland AB11 6NY 01224 252752 granitereef.co.uk
SEA FOLK 1085 Christchurch Road Bournemouth, Dorset BH7 6BQ 01202 929503 seafolk.eu.com
WATERSHED 3-5 Bank Street, Newquay Cornwall TR7 1EP +44(0)1637 498 121 watershedshop.co.uk
GULF STREAM SURF SHOP 27 Caen Sreet,Braunton N Devon EX33 1AA 01271 815490 gulfstreamsurfboards.co.uk
SHOP ON THE BEACH On The Beach, Watergate Bay Cornwall TR8 4AA 01637 86005
BUNDORAN SURF CO Main St, Bundoran, Co. Donegal, Ireland +353 71 984 1968 bundoransurfco.com
SMILE SURF SHOP 28 Fore St, Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1LN 01637 873389
THE PIT Crossroads Cl, St Merryn, Padstow Cornwall PL28 8NQ 01841 520204 surf-the-pit.co.uk
JAM JAR CAFE 2 Broad Street Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1NE
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WE MAK E I T GO O D
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Wavelength was born in the 80’s (1981 to be exact). That’s 36 years ago, and over 250 issues deep. Pretty amazing! And certainly worth a celebration, or at the very least a small gathering with nibbles and a drink or two, so I thought I’d put together a little 80’s themed party platter with some vintage favourites and a slightly modern, healthier twist.
SEX STICKS
S E X O N T H E B E AC H
P R AW N C O C K TA I L
Looks good, tastes good, and just screams 80’s. If you want to mix it up a bit, you can use pineapple juice instead of the orange, or Midori & Chambord instead of schnapps.
The 80’s would simply not have existed without the mass consumption of prawn cocktails. I’ve been unable to fully commit to the plastic blandness of the classic iceberg lettuce, mayo, ketchup, prawn combo, so here is my take on it:
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1. Get 1 avocado, cut it in half, scoop it out, and cut the flesh into small chunks. (Keep the skins looking nice and to one side.)
3 parts vodka 1 part peach schnapps 4 parts cranberry juice 4 parts orange juice
Okay, there is a pattern forming here. This is just a take on the old cheese and pineapple sticks hedgehog (we are surfers after all), and a great way to give everyone their own little island of delight! (Note the retro wax wrapping, before disposable plastics were a thing.) Ah, those care free 80’s, when nothing was broken. I used fresh pineapple and Cornish yarg cheese. It’s covered in stinging nettles and is just way better than boring cheddar!
2. Get 1 small (180g) bag of prawns. (The ones you wouldn’t usually buy anymore.)
To get the layering, I went with cranberry juice, then ice cubes, then vodka and schnapps, and then really gently pour in the orange juice (I went fresh pressed, no bits) using the ice cubes to slow the flow. I would recommend giving it a mix before drinking, otherwise you get pockets of pure ass kick! Serve how you want. I went with pseudoretro-wanker-hipster jam jars. Laughing at two periods of time with one drink, strong!
DEVILLED EGGS 1. Hard boil your eggs. Peel and cut in half. Take out the yolks and place in a bowl. Put the whites to one side. 2. Mix the yolks with the following: teaspoon of English mustard, a good pinch of salt, a good dollop of mayonnaise, some finely chopped chives, and a pinch of paprika. (Needed to have paprika in the 80’s.) 3. Mix and put back in the hollow of the whites, garnish with Chives, and voila! Oh, if you want to get culinary, put the mix in an icing bag, or cut a small hole in the corner of a plastic bag and squeeze. Looking good!
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3. Make the Marie Rose Sauce. Alright, mayonnaise (5 parts) and ketchup (1 part). The less ketchup, the more pink the sauce is. Start with just a bit, you can add cayenne pepper and a splash of whiskey if you want to get really fancy! 4. Get some finely chopped herbs. Go with chives, parsley, or anything fragrant and green. 5. Mix everything and fill the empty avocado skins. Boom. A modern 80’s masterpiece!
L I G H T LY S T E A M E D A S PA R AG U S T I P S W R A P P E D I N PA R M A H A M I’m not even going to tell you how to do this – the clue is in the title!
There you go, easy. Now, break out those shoulder pads, acid wash jeans, put on a bit of Wham, comb back that hair, invite some materialistic friends over and Whammo – party time! See you all in another generation.
Wink x
winklamiroy.com
winklamiroy
WI NK ’ S K I TC H E N
A WORD I FIND IS USED FAR TOO OFTEN IN SURF CULTURE. A WORD I FIND ACTUALLY MAKES MY STOMACH TURN A LITTLE WHENEVER I FIND MYSELF USING IT OUT OF ITS CORRECT CONTEXT. I EXPECT THIS IS BORN FROM MY OWN RELATIONSHIP WITH SURFING AND ITS FOUR LETTER WORD, A MARRIAGE THAT I FIND MORE OFTEN THAN NOT JUSTIFIES THE USE OF SAID WORD, ALTHOUGH THIS TIME IN ITS MORE CLINICAL DEFINITION.
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few years ago I woke up to the daily animal chorus that is nature’s 5am alarm clock, deep (ish) in the Costa Rican jungle, with what I thought was another niggler of a hangover. I considered this pretty standard, an expected reaction from the previous night's Imperials. However, an hour later my brains felt like they were about to be forced out of my skull like a less child friendly Playdoh machine. Convinced this was going to be my untimely demise, I drafted my last will and testament on my phone and called my Mum. It’s this life changing event that leads me to put pen on paper and use my vast experience of traipsing about tropical surf destinations to knock up this quick guide to minimising your own discomfort on your own surf trip.
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PLANNING Unless you’re still travelling with your parents or you have a really handy, mega-organised other half, you’re going to have to start to think about your exotic getaway a couple of months before you get on the plane. Bang the name of your destination followed by “vaccinations” into Google and check out the common illnesses that are associated with the area you’re traveling to. Getting a head start on this is quite important; a lot of tropical places require a jab or two for entry into the country and some medication can take weeks to start to work, or are given in a series of shots over a three or more weeks. I’ve known several people who rock up to their GP a couple of days before their trip only to be told there’s no point in getting the hepatitis or typhoid needle as it wont even start to offer you any protection until you're back in the UK, (Which to be fair could be quite handy in some of the UK’s seedier seaside towns.) Also, if you are on any medication, keep it in your hand luggage. No explanation necessary.
ROAD KILL it’s on fire is annoying to say the least. Some Canesten cream should clear that bad boy up in a day, just don’t scratch too much or you’ll also end up with a eye/mouth infection. Tasty. Also forget about the fluoride conspiracy for a moment and brush your teeth with an antibacterial mouthwash. It’s more about the bacteria harbouring on your toothbrush and the undrinkable tap water you’re brushing your teeth with, which is great way to get sick quick. Blast those pearly whites with the strongest stuff you can get your hands on. A selfish way to handle the Big D is to make sure you drag someone down with you. A roommate is best. Just mimmic their diet and eating habits, then if Bali belly comes a-calling you get sick with a mate. Back that up with a visit to the nearest knock-off DVD shop and can slob out watching movies all day together. The company is priceless (reassure each other you’re not about to die) and being ill can actually be a great excuse to seriously Netflix and Chill, or finish The Art of War, but be warned, without any media to consume you could possibly become insane as well.
Although we might be well prepared for malaria and ever aware of potential terrorist attacks, most of us won’t hesitate to jump into a death-trap tuk tuk, pile into the back of a beaten up pickup, or straddle a mates 150cc 50p a day moped and bomb it amongst crazy local traffic hunting for waves. Yes, it is half of the fun, but everyone knows someone who’s had a run-in with the Balinese tarmac, right? It’s proper dangerous. Even if you’re not in Indo most vehicles you will hire in third world surf destinations will be proper pieces of shit. Just under a hundred foreigners died on the roads of Bali alone in 2015, so to avoid becoming one of the statistics look at hiring a local driver who will know the roads and more importantly the etiquette better than you ever will. If your budget is thin, hire the best car you can afford. If you ignore this advice and opt for the death-trap Honda Vision, don’t drive after a day full of surfing and a few sun-downers. You don’t have to deny yourself that sweet postsurf nectar. Have plenty, just pay a local to drive you back to where you’re staying. You’ll be coughing up bugger all compared to a taxi at home and the local guy makes a few quid. Everyone’s a winner.
INSTANT DEATH Well, okay, maybe not full death, but at least some diarrhoea, dehydration, a rash and some sort of respiratory problem are standard issue. Amongst my friends and I, these are the most common illnesses and although not (always) life-threatening, having to get out of perfect 4ft peelers because your groin feels like 29
ABOVE TOP
ABOVE BOTTOM
Taking some well deserved time out between providing spinal fluid samples and being presented with a $40,000 bill.
The waves I was missing while I waited for my brain to force itself out of my skull.
SICKK
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A couple of lumbar punctures and slightly less spinal fluid later, I was in the Caribbean...
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One too many postsurf cold ones? That's another article all together.
Two proper helmets. Safety first kids.
Less than perfect hygiene can mean less that perfect health.
Bearing this in mind, and it may sound obvious, but if you don’t have to slum it, don’t. There is nothing cool about being completely feral and sleeping in a hammock for $3 per night when you’d normally spend this on a coffee during your morning commute. If you can afford a nice private cabana or an air conditioned apartment with a mini bar, do it. You’re on holiday, live outside your means for a couple of weeks. You’ll thank me when you’re not running through a 12 bed dorm every hour to the one, inevitibly occupied toilet, whilst trying to stop your bowels from violently evacuating all over your fellow dorm dwellers. Assuming you’ve made it alive through the above and you actually manage to go surfing, make sure you sort out any reef cuts, rubs or ulcers before they become serious. This is easier said than done when the surf’s pumping, but if you’re in a place for longer than a week and you’ve got a fin cut that could go nasty, it will. Keep it clean and dry and go see the local sights. It’s a nice break from chaining yourself to tide times and swell forecasts.
If you feel you have to cut the trip short and go home, go home, but seek advice off the following people in this order: first, that sensible friend; second, some local guy, maybe that surf lodge owner you’ve got to know; third a doctor and finally, your parents. Parents are always the last as they will want you home after the slightest sniff of jungle fever, the local guy will have seen your condition a thousand times, your sensible mate will be able to make the impossible decision for you and the Doctor will give you sound medical advice. Which leads us nicely back to my troublesome cranium. Turns out I was in the early and very painful stages of bacterial meningitis. Whilst getting screwed over in an American style pay-as-you-go private hospital that my travel insurance didn’t cover me for, my parents were ready to remortgage their house to pay the estimated $40,000 to keep me in the ward "under supervision". My partner at the time smelled a rat and suggested we get out of there and go to the free church-run hospital. I took her advice, had a justified tantrum, ripped the IV out of my arm, got a patronising “good luck” off the Doctor, then took the advice of a very lovely trainee at the Church Hospital who had seen much worse things that day than my headache. A couple of lumbar punctures and slightly less spinal fluid later, I was in the Caribbean taking my medication and "relaxing" upon Doctor's orders.
LOVE SICK Be warned that when traveling almost every female you mix with will probably surf a bit, definitely do yoga and will be endearingly happy-go-lucky; a trifecta of qualities that will ensure they are incredibly aesthetically pleasing and appealing. But try not to fall too hard for the first beautifully bronzed broad you meet. Your daydreams of this exotic future wife will spread like a rash, soon consuming your every thought, and before you know it you don’t care about the one thing you have risked all of the above for - waves. Oh and wrap it up before you slap it up. Enough said.
CALL IT A DAY Stressing out and worrying about things that haven’t happened can actually make you ill. So just enjoy the ride and try to do what I do: travel with a sensible, slightly unsympathetic partner who’s real about things and knows when its time to call a Doctor and when it’s time to ride it out.
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Max C ANAR I AN C ARSNAGE ICKK
ILLUSTRATION
WORDS
Clara
THE SURF INDUSTRY HAS CHANGED, THAT MUCH IS CLEAR. FROM THE INSIDE LOOKING OUT, LEROY ANALYSES THE EVER-SHIFTING PLAYING FIELD IN A GAME WHICH ISN’T ALWAYS FAIR.
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I
n the mid-1990s the surf industry was a shining, red spandex clad, all singing, all dancing, blonde haired, chart-topping, money making machine. For those involved, it seemed like the good times were getting better and set to never end. Turns out, somewhere in the noughties, it all went a bit arse over tit. When the money dried up the industry fell on tough times, shaved its head, hit the bottle and turned to the crack pipe. Come 2017, not much has changed, budgets are only getting tighter. It feels like every week more and more top surfing talents are losing their sponsorships, being kicked to the kerb and forced to dwell in the soggy cardboard boxes of their forgotten childhood dreams. As funds are squeezed across the board, the industry is upping their standards. Brands are streamlining their teams and only the strongest survive. It’s a pretty difficult time to be a professional surfer. For me, it begs the question of whether it comes down to raw talent or does today’s pro need a little extra to cut the mustard in a difficult game. There has always been a lot of talk regarding the sexualisation of female surfers and the mounting industry pressure for them to objectify themselves. Whilst I recognise their plight and wholeheartedly sympathise, I can also relate to the other side of the argument. As a brand sponsoring an athlete, they must see a return on their investment, and in a digital age where page views are both a commodity and a currency, it must be recognised that certain things obtain more clicks than others. A simple swipe through Instagram reveals that a surfer’s bronzed backside is worth roughly double that of a backside hack. In monetary value one buttock is worth one turn and therefore, from a brand’s perspective, it’s simple math. I don’t blame the girls. They are simply doing their job. After all, we are the ones choosing the media we prefer to digest and by clicking that little ♥ we’re all instrumental in the way that these companies decide to market its athletes. The brands are just giving us more of what we want. It’s us as the consumer that is at fault. That being said, it is difficult to point the finger, as we are simply a product of our environment. Us millennials are, on the whole, a shallow and narcissistic bunch. We’ve become obsessed with image and we’re not afraid to show it. The (almost) 24-hour sun beds just atop the Wavelength office tell me everything I need to know about what we deem important in 2017. At 11 pm I can’t get a pint of milk but I can bronze up my milky complexion to my ♥’s content. We are the first generation to be subject to pressures brought on by the internet, and more specifically social media. Constant sharing of our own image unwillingly drives us to draw comparisons between our own appearances and that of our peers and, even worse, the airbrushed images of the celebrity elite. The very same tanned shrines to human perfection that the surf industry seeks to create, in order to give us more of what we crave, to generate more Likes and therefore give them more of an insight to our desires. A seemingly endless game. I can’t help but feel that the Instagram girl ‘Get Yer Bum Out’ argument of the moment is only the tip of the iceberg. The overall problem is far larger. It’s based on an industry bias towards the marketable surfer. I would argue, although it isn’t talked about anywhere near enough, that the pressures of image and marketability apply to men as much as they do women. I’d go as far as to say that a surfer’s marketability dictates their level of success today as much as their talent. The highest profile male surfers in the world, on the whole, are a handsome and charismatic bunch and those that have thrived in the industry for a long period of time certainly fill this criterion. To understand the reason
for this, you have to look at the mechanics behind the professional surf industry. Unlike many professional sporting industries, surfing is propped up exclusively by private corporations who rely on selling a product en mass and more specifically, to a niche group who buy into a particularly glamorous lifestyle, one which is characterised by sun-kissed skin and shredded abdominals. We want to buy a product endorsed by our idols and we want the full package for our dollar. We are being sold the dream in board-short form and companies must select their representatives with military precision. So take comfort in this girls, the boys may not have to twerk it on The Gram, but big brother is watching, and we are being judged. Reaching an elite level of surfing is a difficult and expensive process riddled with obstacles. A journey which the majority of those who are brave enough to embark upon will sadly fall victim to. We have all read the jaded accounts of talented QS dropouts currently seeking sponsorship whilst working in their local Happy Shopper. When reading these tales of woe we see that nine times out of ten their failure to qualify comes down to the Yankee dollar, or more importantly, the lack thereof. As budgets continue to tighten, for a company to invest hundreds of thousands of dollars driving a career, in the end, this investment must be matched in returns. These returns will be achieved through clicks, advertising and signature products. With the shallow nature of the Millennial generation in mind, to the industry, a surfer that looks good in front of the lens and oozes charisma is worth quite significantly more than one that can simply surf well. After all, I haven’t seen a Wayne Rooney signature cologne whilst browsing the local Superdrug for my male grooming essentials. Have you? It’s not all doom and gloom for those with a less defined jaw line, the range of surfer images considered marketable is diversifying and expanding. Today more than ever there are a larger number of individuals, on a global level, that break the mould, forging alternative identities that don’t adhere to the traditional model of a pro. Their teeth don’t refract the light quite like Julian Wilson’s do but they capture the imaginations of the nonconformist consumer, creating strong personal brands, often helped by having totally sweet tats. They are an elite breed of new-age Christian Fletchers, flipping the bird to the traditional model and us "alternativ"’ consumers love them for it. I guess it’s an amusing contradiction really that this then gives them value to the corporate monster, and we are now buying their tie dye tees and acid wash pedal pushers by the truck load. A fair few are now spinning good coin doing shove-its and wearing pineapple shirts in the lineup. It’s certainly a difficult route to the top and one that I suspect takes a certain level of commercial marketing prowess that not everybody possesses, but if you aren’t winning competitions, you have to know what you have got, and how to sell it. It’s just an extension of what the Instagram girls do, they know what they have, they know what we want, and they use it to forge careers to continue doing what they love, surfing, and for that; I say good on you. Maybe this isn’t the way it should be. Raw talent in any sport should come first, but this is the industry we have shaped. We as the consumer say when it changes, but for now, the industry is the monster we’ve created, so until that big come back EP knocks up a few hundred million plays on Spotify we need to wait for our hair to grow back, skip the crack and hope that spandex still fits when the time comes. And on that note, I shall leave you. Time to hit the gym, book some UV time and number three the chest. The countdown to beach season has begun and come July, I for one need to see those sweet ♥♥♥♥♥♥ dropping like QS careers.
A simple swipe through
Instagram reveals that a bronzed backside is
worth roughly double a backside hack...
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CR CE ANAR AT I NG I AN A C MO ARNST NAGE ER
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Jayce Robinson blows the fins on a clear day in St Ives. P H O T O : J A M E S WA R B E Y
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A funny swell direction for this
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spot with plenty of wide clean up
Speed to burn on a cold emerald
sets. Sandy scrapes over while
drainer, during one of many epic
Noah Lane lurks in the shallows.
days this winter.
PHOTO: LEWIS ARNOLD
PHOTO: CONOR LEE
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A pristine sunlit empty unloads
Jordan Rodin styles his way
somewhere in the British Isles.
down the line sans-fins at South
PHOTO: MIKE GUEST
Point, Gracetown. P H O T O : B I L LY C E R V I
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Alan Stokes lays into a drawn out drop-wallet carve on a delightfully tropical winter escape to Costa Rica. PHOTO: LEWIS HARRISONPINDER
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A classic east coast swell lights up a slab near Sydney. Spare a thought for the fella stuck inside, about to take this one on the head. PHOTO: DAN BLIECH
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Cian Logue sliding through a dark, but spacious cavern somewhere on the the Emerald Isle. PHOTO: CONOR LEE
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Jam Industries With a 70% down fill, the Jam Industries Porthmeor jacket provides the perfect combination of warmth and lightweight manoeuvrability for the cold spring winds also available in Navy’. £98 jam-industries.co.uk
Santa Cruz - Cali Fade Long Sleeve Tee A staple for the Spring season the Cali Fade regular fit long sleeve tee comes in soft hand combed cotton with bold logo colour pops at back and sleeves for that classic Cali vibe. £28.00 skatehut.co.uk
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Surf Perimeters - Navigator Blazer. Looking smart and having surf in your soul are not mutually exclusive. Wear your heart on your sleeve. Literally. Cut from a stretch-cotton fabric, the Navigator Blazer harnesses a sharp look with subtle ‘edgy’ touches that showcase the adventurous soul of the wearer. £195 surfperimeters.com
Finisterre - Newlyn Smock Indigo dyed sweat, with tough fisherman’s smock detailing. £85 finisterre.com
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Protest - Anxious The cut and sew Anxious Beachshorts come in all-over washed-look with an asphalt botanical print. The 19inch shorts features a lace at the waistband and a solid inner partly elastic waistband. £39.99 protest.eu
Van der Waal - Surf Grip A clear non-skid alternative to wax, easy to install and with almost no maintenance. It’s clear which means that your board will always look like new, and doesn’t melt, so your board will never stain other surfaces it comes in contact with, and also doesn’t get sticky or dirty, so your board is always clean. ¤26 - ¤39€ waal.co
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SeaSpecs - Extreme Sunglasses It’s SeaSpecs’ business to protect your eyes and no company does it better. Cutting edge construction using extremely durable material that is unusually flexible and lightweight provides a very comfortable fit even for the longest surf sessions. The frame has an integrated strap system that’s adjustable with one hand. SeaSpecs brand lenses protect your eyes from all UV rays and stop annoying glare from interfering with your sightline. With their Classic and Stealth Sunglasses you’ve got more than 10 models to choose from. From ‘low-profile’ black to ‘totally out there’ neon green, they’ve got your style and your eyes protected. $49.95 seaspecs.com
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Finisterre - Aeris Reversible Jacket Fully reversible, lightweight packable warmth, made using recycled fabrics and fill. £160 finisterre.com
Vans – Joel TudorAuthentic SF The Authentic SF in Joel Tudor’s signature colorway combines the original low profile lace-up with Joel’s timeless style and the Vans Surf SF build. £50 vans.eu
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Surf Perimeters - Organic Crew Neck. The athletic-inspired crew neck range is designed for a relaxed, easy-going look without compromising on style, substance or saltwater spirit. Made out of organic cotton and dyed using environmentally friendly processes, our designs encompass premium detailing and subtle branding which speak closely to our identity. Specific details include glacier grey herringbone neck tape, raglan sleeves, cross-stitch detailing below the front neck, a brush-back inside fleece for a softer feel and our woven label just above the back hem. £80 surfperimeters.com
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Protest - Frasier The Protest Frasier sweater is comfortable, cosy and good looking. It comes in solid calm colours, with an all-over pattern. The cotton blend sweater features a ribbed neck, cuffs, and bottom, as well as a smooth chest pocket. Stay warm; stay stylish. £39.99 protest.eu
Protest - Immortal The Immortal Boardshorts are part of the PVRE Series and come in an intricate and sharp abstract print. The 19inch shorts feature a lace against a solid inner waistband, elastane fly, and double-glued laser cut flap. £49.99 protest.eu
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Hoax - Sunset Shirt The Sunset shirt is the latest offering from Uk surf and skate brand HOAX. Featuring a bespoke check from designer Paul Vogel, fully branded to the high standards that you expect from HOAX. As the name suggests, the ‘Sunset’ is the perfect après surf shirt! £60 www.hoax1994.com
Vans - Authentic™ Chino Vans Authentic™ Chino, is part of the spring 2017 Men’s Apparel collection. The Authentic™ Chino features Vans’ Sturdy Stretch twill fabrication, highlighting a purposeful innovation that embraces timeless style and skateboard functionality all-in-one. £65 vans.eu
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Protest - Reward The Reward t-shirt by Protest comes in diagonally split melange colour scheme with solid colour chest pocket with matching sleeves. The street wear t-shirt is trendy, distinct, and perfect summer wear. Sport the cotton blend slim fit on a summer day. £24.99 protest.eu
Santa Cruzer Complete – Wave Dot Street Shark. The Street Shark Cruzer from Santa Cruz is great for beginners getting into skateboarding or just someone looking for a fun, solid board. £149.99 skatehut.co.uk
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STOKING THE FIRE All over the world surfers living far from the sea can be left feeling disconnected from the lifestyle and culture that they most associate with. Now a new London based start up believes its found the solution. We sat down company founder Jim Storey to learn what inspired the collection, and hear how he hopes it will help city based surfers find that elusive surf-life balance.
How does the ethos that underpins your business differ from that of all the other action sports and adventure brands out there? Most brands focus on selling the dream, but they forget that not all of us can actually live it on a permanent basis. For 90% of the time most of us are living normal lives, navigating urban environments and holding down a busy work or family life. I believe strongly that we shouldn’t be trying to escape our everyday lives and only living toward those moments where we can get amongst the great outdoors. We should be embracing both worlds simultaneously. City and sea can co-exist in a positive, balanced way. It doesn’t have to be one or the other. Is being a surfer more than just surfing? Without getting too philosophical, I believe that being a surfer means representing a set of core values that transcend into all other parts of life. Commitment. Respect. Ambition. Strength. Friendship. Fitness. Courage. Patience. I also think that surfing is a way to meet like-minded people and experience moments which will stay with you for the rest of your lives. I went to southern Morocco on an overland trip to some remote parts of the country where the swell was huge. I didn’t catch as many waves as I’d hoped to, however, it was up there with my most epic surf trips. The people I met were amazing, from such a diverse range of backgrounds, careers, and geographies. And yet, despite this, or perhaps because of it, we all bonded very closely. After only a four-day tour, we were like family and that’s what it’s all about for me – shared experiences, common values, new friendships, and memories that will last a lifetime. Do you think many contemporary surfers relate to the stereotypical image of a surfer “beach bum”? Yes, for sure. I think a surfer is a surfer regardless of location or vocation, so they can totally relate to their spirit and the image that they represent, it’s just that they may not be able to support that look themselves. Living in an urban environment, it’s not really practical dressing in that way, but they both have a shared spirit which unites them regardless of what they wear. Your brand is focused around the work-life balance, which is something everyone battles with. What do you think is the key to creating an equilibrium? As a surfer living in a landlocked location, what works for me is having short trips away on a regular basis, little and often. Trips that won’t break the bank, don’t get too much in the way of family time, can fit around work commitments and are enough to meet the desire to get out there. When my dad died back in 2012 having being diagnosed with Motor Neurone Disease, I made a pledge to myself that I would make more of an effort to create that equilibrium now, because we don’t know what’s around the corner. 43
Sometimes I struggle to find the money, and also work or family commitments may need to take precedence, but I will always do my best to fulfil that pledge. Life is short, and if we are only surviving rather than living, then what’s the point? Work hard and play hard. Don’t relinquish experience as you build your career, do both and live both at the same time. Don’t just live to “escape”. How is your company ethos reflected in your design and technical specs? Firstly, we’ve created a launch range that speaks to both the yin and yang dynamic, one that enables surfers to weave saltwater spirit into their wardrobes across multiple environments, whether that be commuting to work or checking out the surf. The products all encompass a meticulous attention to detail to ensure that they are both stylistically appealing with the brand’s more minimalist aesthetic, but also versatile enough for use in multiple environments. Two of our technical styles are manufactured by the same company that Rapha and Sweet Protection have used. All the products have subtle details incorporated to ensure a premium edge, from hidden wetsuit-inspired key pockets on the softshell and fleece to a brushed fabric handle on the casual tees and a curved drop-tail hem on the technical tee. Our branding is sharper and minimalist. Our surfboard icon is designed to speak to the saltwater spirit and is very “clean” in its design. We saw that you’re launching a blazer soon. Why do you think it’s important to buy smarter and casual wear from the same brand as opposed to mixing and matching your wardrobe with retailers specialised in surf wear and smart wear? The driving force behind this was that I often find myself sitting in a meeting or on the train with the feeling of being disconnected from surfing. I wanted to create something that enabled people who want to look a bit smarter whilst representing their saltwater spirit do exactly that. It might sound a bit daft to someone who lives by the ocean, but, if you don’t, that disconnect can be really hard to manage on a day-to-day basis. Wearing a brand that specialises in smart wear but doesn’t necessarily have an identity which you can affiliate with serves a purpose, but it isn’t something that stokes the fire. I think that, these days, perhaps more than any other, there is a heightened requirement to be connected somehow to the great outdoors and people want to weave that passion into their everyday life and show others they are associated with it. To be proud of it. To keep that passion alive as they navigate different environments in their lives. This is exactly what we’re trying to do with the Navigator Blazer. If surfing and its associated values are deep within your soul, then I want to give people the option of showcasing them, albeit in a subtle way, whether they’re in a boardroom meeting, commuting on a train, or getting amongst it in the great outdoors. STO K I NG T H E F I R E
I SPEAK
BECAUSE I CAN WORDS SOPHIE
H E L LY E R
I
’m coming close to 30. Life has been full of lessons and my understanding of all things has changed and shifted, but I am by no means perfect. I play football on Thursdays and there are times now I don’t even realise I’m the only girl playing. I am snotty, red faced and sweaty with no make up on and my hair scraped back, but none of that matters. What matters is the quality of my pass. What matters is the deep feeling of belonging and the release of endorphins. When I play football and surf I’m in this state of flow and it’s like my brain is unconscious of what it’s doing. There is no mirror. Sport for me is a place of unselfconscious freedom and expression. The hyper-sexualisation of women in surfing culture is an interesting conversation and it’s an issue men need to be talking about too. It’s especially interesting for me as I have been on both sides of the debate. I am full of contradictions. I have modelled in countless photo-shoots and I have shouted feminism from the rooftops. I don’t believe I have to stop riding a pink surfboard just because I believe in equal pay. I’ve been commented on far too many times to remain indifferent. I support professional female surfers who are pushing for an end to the over sexualised surfing culture but it
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is a daunting thing to speak up about. I often have the feeling I am the single female voice, constantly in a room full of men, and it’s hard to be heard. The first time I remember becoming aware of this sense of imbalance and objectification was when I was 14 and was told I couldn’t join the local surf club as I was a distraction for the boys. Why was their distraction and inability to focus my responsibility? Then 10 years later, a magazine article was written about me, by a man, that questioned my morals for a photo-shoot I did surfing for a deodorant company. He suggested I was a bad role model for young women and that surfing in a bikini did not help the progression of women in surfing. Nobody contacted me for a comment and the dialog was from his voice alone. Where was the female voice in this matter? I hope I am not a bad role model. I hope that just maybe I might motivate someone to ask themselves the questions I am only just realising to ask myself. Do I want to help create a world where women are valued and equal and our differences celebrated? A world where all people strive to make the world, both environmentally and culturally, a better place?
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I live near Lahinch, a village in the West of Ireland on the edge of the wild Atlantic. I surround myself with people that nourish me, including the other women who surf here. There are about 25 of us female surfers now, who live here and surf in these waters regularly throughout all the seasons. We are a team. My tribe of women; mothers, wives, warriors, doctors, physiotherapists, waitresses, counsellors and business owners. They are beautiful, smiling water women, a supportive community of non-competitive surfers, and it fills me with pride and happiness to see them in the ocean. Despite all the surfing women in my community, I find it strange and frightening that we are often misrepresented, or more commonly, not represented at all in the films, photos and stories. The internet and film festivals are full with tales of what surfing is like on this beautiful island of Ireland and there is rarely a woman featured without her being a mother, wife or barmaid. But we are here, throughout every season, paddling out and riding waves. It is our story too. So why are we female cold water surfers not being represented by so many surfing media outlets? Sport is supposed to set you free, not make you feel you have to be objectified to participate. I believe what we see, we can be. I speak to young girls who don’t see female surfers in the films about our coast and they question their place in the surfing world and whether they should be doing it at all. We live in a male dominated world in which men are at the helm; male presidents, largely male governments, priests, captains, headmasters, police, even superheroes. I am not calling all men misogynists, you are not the patriarchy, I am just identifying the general problem; that most of the power and influence in the world are held by a small amount of men. And that the world isn’t that peaceful either. I’m not saying if the world were ran by women it would be better, just different. Albert Einstein said the definition of insanity is doing something over and over again and expecting a different result. Maybe some diversity is what we really need here. I am not alone in believing today’s challenges will not be solved by testosterone alone. When I refer to feminism, I refer to a person who believes in the social, political and economic equality of the sexes. Feminism means women being equal to men, in all areas of life, including sport. Not burning all penises in a bonfire. Feminist means women now being able to vote and, you know, rape being illegal. I’m confused then that so few describe themselves as feminist. What part of liberation for women is not for you? The campaign for equal pay? Jeans? And brothers, feminism is on your side too. Did you know as a man, you are far less likely to get custody of your children? That is not equality.
I believe the world would be a safer place if there were more gender balance, and this filters all the way down to the surfing media. Imagine surf magazines ran by women and how different an image they might portray of female surfers would be as a result. I don’t want the male dominated surfing industry to decide on my dignity or to make recognition of our equal humanity difficult. This is why I really like my wetsuit. It keeps us all equal. It emphasizes neutrality. I think the media needs diversity of thought and diversity of perspective. To achieve this diversity, the surf industry must invest in their female talent and nurture that talent from the grassroots community kids surf leagues right through the ranks. This needs to include support and representation of the women who surf cold waters too. I don’t want to criticise other women, they are my sisters, I would just like to see a fairer representation of the true female surfing culture. These women we see in the magazines are powerful, wholesome women who surf with grace and have an indescribable connection to the ocean, an achievement that they should and we all should be proud of. I personally just don’t want my bum floating inches from teenage boys faces in a busy line up, it feels a bit weird and creepy. What I would really like to see is a real process of change, for the media to inspire young girls to participate in transformative activities. We are going to need men to rise up and stand by us for this to happen. This isn’t some exclusive club that only angry women can join. We need your support; include us in your films, your photographs and your magazines. Give female surfers an equal chance for their stories to be represented. If you are a consumer, become more conscious and vote with your wallet. Support media and publications that support and include all kinds of female surfers, not solely those with a tan and a bikini; include the coldwater female surfers battling strong winds and biting chilly water too. This industry can change from the outside even if we cannot change it from the inside, to overcome this unconscious bias and move away from this potentially damaging archetype of female surfers. My hope is that we can create role models out of today’s female surfers to make surfing culture more healthy and empowering, leaving the world a safer, more diverse and sustainable place.
LEFT Sophie embracing the colder climates and looking as content as ever at home in Ireland. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
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ABOVE Wetsuit or no wetsuit, Sophie's surfing is elegant and enticing regardless. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
I S PE AK BE C AUS E I C AN
MINDSETS
SHIFTING
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M I K E L AY
MITCH SURMAN
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S H I F T I NG MI NDS E TS
MAIN
Mitch at work. Photo: Olivia Williams
LEFT
Speed and stability. Photo: Olivia Williams
itch and I are sat in the empty dining
“I don’t regret riding those boards at all,” Mitch tells me. “They
space of the Glass Coffee House, a
100% made me the surfer I am today. Riding such a long board
café he runs with his partner, Brydie,
and trying to do shortboard turns forces you to read a wave
in Queensland. It is cluttered, post
extremely well. But compared to today’s single fin longboarding,
pack-down. Amongst the upturned
it’s for sure B-grade surfing.” Mitch talks fluidly and passionately
stools and piles of polished cutlery,
about the virtues of multi-fin, lightweight longboarding at the
my laptop is playing a clip entitled
same time as condemning it to irrelevancy today. He grew up on
Mitch Surman Noosa 2010. Mitch
the sunshine coast of Australia, and, as far as he was concerned,
grins as he watches his younger self surf the waves we have
there was no choice of what kind of board to ride. “I didn’t see
just spent the last week revelling in. “Aerial!” he barks, as 18 year
anyone on single fins. I knew they were there, but for me, hi-pro
old Mitch hucks his 9’0 quad off the lip, landing awkwardly in
longboarding was just longboarding. And I took it really seriously.
the flats.
I wanted to be on the World Tour. It was where every grom riding
“Do you like watching that?” I ask.
a longboard wanted to be back then.”
“Yeah, it’s sick. I was frothing when it came out because I was
Mitch saw free surfs as training sessions, and he was sponsored
pretty young, and I’m still proud of it.” His blue eyes are wide
and driven to climb to the top of his sport. At the age of 18 he
and steady as they watch the video. He means what he says.
achieved his goal and surfed in two ASP World Longboard Tour
“But it’s crazy watching it, ‘cause I realise you can do a bigger
events. I remember watching him on the live feed of the Pasta
turn on a single fin. I’m doing alright there, but now...”
Point contest in the Maldives. He was surfing against my heroes
I first met Mitch 4 years ago on a detoured trip through
from the UK, Sam Bleakley and Ben Skinner, and he was exactly
Australia after a mix up with a Duct Tape contest in New
the same age as me. I was in awe. But competing at such a high
Zealand. I’ve only known this longhaired, non-competitive, log-
level wasn’t all Mitch thought it might be.
riding version. I’m aware of the other Mitch Surman, the one
“There were a few guys who were very intimidating and didn’t
touted on World Longboard Tour webcasts as the next big
make me feel at all welcome,” he tells me. At the time there was
thing, cropped, streamlined hair, competitive, and, dare I say it,
a dominant generation of large framed, more established surfers
high performance. Given the current tumultuous state of world
at the top level. Reflecting on it, Mitch sees the simple physical
longboarding, and having just returned from one of its most
disparity in the sport as a huge disadvantage to smaller surfers.
prestigious events, the Noosa Festival of Surfing, it seemed an
He was 5’10 and skinny. He didn’t stand a chance. “All the big guys
opportune time to sit down with a surfer who has occupied and
would constantly win. It was two steps to the nose, or a hop, then
succeeded on both sides of the longboard divide.
straight back to the tail to tear the bag out of it.”
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Deflated, and a little lost, Mitch flew back early from a WLT contest in Makaha having surfed a high performance longboard for what was to be the very last time. The contest in Hawaii could well be seen as a turning point in the global perception of longboarding. It ran in large, backwashy waves, obviously unsuitable for even high performance longboarding, and the surfing on offer was a far cry from the flow and grace that longboarding once stood for. Mitch was staying in San Clemente, California, at the time, and when he got back from Hawaii was offered a single fin board from Scott Alter, Grandson of Hobie Alter. “Scott asked Terry Martin to make me a very Californian style single fin”, he says. “It was actually a bit big for me looking back, but it completely shifted my mindset. I went from being frustrated and fed up with surfing to finding the fun in it again. Guys like Tommy Witt, Christian Wach, and Eli Gillis weren’t like the guys on tour. They were doing it ‘cause they loved it.” This difference in mindset between the two styles of surfing is where I believe the fundamental difference between them lies. When I rode high performance longboards I was also competing, doing the BLU contests in Britain and the ETL contests in Europe. When I started riding logs I pretty much stopped competing all together. The contests that do exist for single fin longboards have an emphasis on fun and community. Competitive success is a goal, but meeting friends and surfing together is more important. Joel Tudor’s Duct Tape Invitational contests and James Parry’s Hip Wiggler’s are prime examples of the spirit of single fin longboarding. Mitch, however, isn’t too bothered by the proposed changes to the WLT format to exclude multi-fin boards in favour of single fins. “Mate, I’ve no interest in going down that route again,” he assures me. “I’m flat out here anyway trying to run two businesses. Obviously, I think it’s a good thing for logging, and for fans of logging, but it’s not for me any more.” Mitch’s ambivalence towards top level WSL competition is shared by a few surfers at the Noosa Festival (myself
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Mitch watching one of his boards bouncing across the rocks. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
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A turn trough the leaves at Tea Tree. Photo: Nick PumphreyPhoto: Olivia Williams
included), but there is a young generation of millennial log riders for whom logging is the only form of longboarding and who are hungry to achieve competitive success. Young surfers like Jordan Spee and Hudson Ritchie, who both ride Mitch’s boards, could be persuaded to compete on the WSL if it was run with integrity and within the spirit of single fin surfing, but they maintain a degree of scepticism as to the reality of that happening. They are also engaged with the progression of single fin longboarding, a passion that Mitch has been responsible for and which grew from the very beginning of his own journey in logging. “When I got back to Australia from the US I went straight in to hanging with James Parry and watching him surf,” Mitch recounts. “He had his first James Parry
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RIGHT Between land and sea. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
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Stringerless flex. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
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“The traditional movement is good for the stoke in surfing but needs to move forward otherwise it will MAIN
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A hazy morning with Mike Lay. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
Time for a signature. Photo: Olivia Williams
disappear,” he says. “People say a log has to be this or has to be that, but I think that way of thinking will be the downfall of logging.” I notice how he talks about “people” a lot, a faceless and nameless entity that seems to represent the
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The price of progression, a chemical stare. Photo: Olivia Williams
Mike, switch drop knee. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
conceived wisdom within surfing, the conservative forces of parts of the surfboard industry. It seems that Mitch has worked with people, welcomed the knowledge of “people”, but is now eager to add to the book of surfing knowledge, unafraid of any criticism that may come his way. It could be easy to see Mitch as a contradictory person: traditional at the same time as progressive, personally competitive but not interested in competition, humble yet sure of his own abilities, shy of the limelight yet looking to lead the way.
model from Slide 65 Surfboards, and it was so different from my Californian log. It had pinched rails and a pulled in nose. It was sick. When he went home I ended up buying it off him.” After that, Mitch spent time delving into his surfing roots. Alexandra Headland surfer Kevin Annetts, father of current MS team rider Kai, has an incredible collection of 1960’s Hayden mals and allowed Mitch a degree of access not only to handle, but to surf the boards. It was at this time, at the age of 20, that Mitch began to think about making his own surfboards. “Riding all those old mals got me thinking a lot about roll through boards,” he says. “All those hi-pro boards were super thin, heaps of concave, hard rails, they weren’t a progression from the old mals. They were completely different. Big shortboards. Some people assume hi-pro logs are quicker than single fin logs, but they don’t have to be.” At this point, Mitch spends 10 minutes talking nonstop about bottom contours, rockers, fin placements, and everything else related to longboard design. He is a technical fanatic with a head full of information, hungry to innovate. When I ask him whether there is much more space in which to move forward with single fin logs, he scoffs at me. “Mate, people say that logging is a throwback. They look down their nose and call it ‘traditional’, but as far as I’m concerned there is so much to explore. For a lot of people it’s not creation anymore, it’s production. It’s easy to make a slow ‘traditional’ board, but that’s not what we want to do. We take our time. We research. We care about progression.” It’s clear Mitch is wary of the logging movement being a flash in the pan and is adamant that his team will stay ahead of the curve and not get bogged down by the “fad” element of logging. As a group of board builders they have developed their skills together, learning from experienced shapers such as Ed Hooper and Mike Davis to name a few. He is anything but complacent.
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“People don’t wanna watch me surf, man,” he says. “They wanna watch the team surf. At least I do anyway. I get so stoked just sitting on the beach and watching the boards go.” As I see it, it is these contradictions that will ultimately lie behind his success and on a greater scale the success of single fin longboards. Single fin longbarding is constantly pulling in multiple directions, and that’s fine. There is a space for it in the competitive sphere. Perhaps not as some kind of Frankenstein’s monster, but to develop along its own path. As Jordan Spee says, “Maybe it would be good to keep it separate, let the guys ride their 2+1 hi-pros and let us surf our single fins.” When it comes to the issue of the day, Mitch is unusually quiet. He would much rather focus on progressing single fin longboards and his surfboards in general than worry about the state of competition in the sport. He has been there and done it, and besides, he is too busy scrubbing pots in the back room of his café to ruminate over the intricacies of objectifying a subjective pursuit. From a personal point of view, based on my extensive travels over the last few months, I see single fin longboarding as far and away the most widely practiced form of the sport, except in a few places such as here in the UK and in France where high performance boards still prevail. Competitively, I can only see the WSL adapting to what is in highest demand, and while I am unlikely to become too involved, I only hope that the stoke stays intact, because whatever you’re riding, it’s the stoke that is important.
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The Noosa crowd. Photo: Olivia Williams
Watching on at The Pass. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
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Creation in the shaping bay. Photo: Olivia Williams
Mike walking back up the point after one of the longest waves of his life. Photo: Nick Pumphrey
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Surfing and skateboarding have always gone hand-in-hand. Surfing, the original counter-culture sport, gave birth to skateboarding. First labelled as concrete surfing, skating became popular in the 1950’s with surfers looking for fun on flat days. Through his love of pool skating Steve has established himself as a true legend of skateboarding. We caught up with Steve to talk about his love of skating, why he later learnt to surf and what it all means.
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t was not until the early 70’s when a group of young degenerate surfers from Venice beach were introduced to polyurethane wheels that skateboarding was truly born. Bring on the Dogtown era, breaking into back yards and the true essence of skateboarding: empty swimming pools. But it was not just the Dogtown guys who were skating pools. Thirty miles inland an unknown skater called Steve Alba quickly made a name for himself and was the first to rival the Dogtown guys, even beating them all at his first pro contest. R: How old are you, Steve? S: I’m 54 now. R: When did you start skating? S: I’ve been skating since 1974, so when I was 10. R: What was it that got you into skateboarding? S: Well, I had some friends in Junior High School, and their older brothers skated quite a bit, and they surfed. We just saw them doing it, so we wanted to do what they did. This is in the 70s, so people are like, y’know, slamming over coke cans, jumping over broomsticks, learning how to do nose wheelies and tail wheelies and taffies and all that kinda silly, kinda 70s stuff. And then from there we saw these guys go down this alleyway one day. And we said, “What are they doing down that alleyway, man?” And then we saw them jump a fence. If they would’ve caught us they would’ve kicked our asses. They didn’t like us following them around, so we kinda hid near these trash cans by these trees. When they left we jumped over the fence to see what was back there, and there was a pool. I didn’t see the skating at first. I just heard the sound. Pool skating has that certain sound, almost just like surfing has a certain sound, and when you hear it, and when you do it and participate in it, you know what the sound sounds like. If you don’t really participate in it, you don’t really know what it is. It’s like, “What the hell’s that?” So from there we just started skating pools a lot. That kinda became my main focus.
This is in the 70s, so people are like, y’know, slamming over coke cans, jumping over broomsticks, learning how to do nose wheelies and tail wheelies and taffies
R: A lot of people who read the magazine might not know the skate history, but they’ve all heard of Dogtown and the Z-boys. And funnily enough you started skating in ‘74, the same year that Tony Alva, Jay Adams, and Stacey [Peralta] were put on the surf team for Dogtown. S: Yeah. Jay was only a couple of years older than me, and he was the youngest in their group. But all those other guys are a good five years older than me. Plus they lived at the beach too. They had that experience where they’re right next to the ocean, whereas we’re living inland. We don’t have that easy way to get to the ocean. We’re closer to the mountains.
here were really good surfers too. And I’m not saying that they were as good of surfers as Jay or Tony, or even [Steve] Olsen, because they all lived at the beach and learned their craft surfing first before they learned skating, which is a beautiful thing in today’s world. My claim to fame is that I won the very first pro contest in a pool, and then I won the fourth one, and for winning that one I got a surfboard, a moped, and a $1000. I tried to learn how to surf. I was 16-17, but then I almost drowned trying to surf too big waves because I didn’t know what I was doing. I didn’t have
R: So you were watching guys skating pools who were obviously very much influenced by the surf scene. That whole Dogtown era, which had a big influence on pool skating, was about trying to emulate the surf styles in pools. S: I think that, but at the same time, y’know, as they were getting in the magazines and we were reading the magazines, we were already doing it, not knowing that they were selling it to the magazines. But there were all kinds of people doing it at the same time, so to speak. There was a lot of people inland doing it, and the people inland had a little bit of an advantage too. Because the drought of that time, of the 70s, you couldn’t fill
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your pool up. Where we lived it was all filled with pools. We had a mass selection of pools. So, y’know, you could say that Dogtown guys did put pool skating on the map. There’s no denying that. They had the first magazine cover and the first exposé’s about ‘em, which to this day in my book is still brilliant. But at the same time we were skating Baldy Pipe and Nell pool, which was a 12foot deep pool whereas some of the pools they were skating were like 10-foot pools. So even though, y’know, hand in hand it was all happening at the same time, as they fizzled, we took over. Our scene, from where we lived in the badlands. A lot of my older friends who lived up here and taught me how to skate all surfed too, even though they were further from the beach. But they had cars. They had access. They were older. They had licenses. I was only young when I started this stuff. As I got bigger and older I was getting better, but I didn’t have access to the beach. My mom and dad both worked, and I didn’t get a car until I was 17. Two or three of those guys from out
Main Old skool steez from a polyurethane pioneer, sometime in the 1980s.
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anybody to tell me what to do. Because of that, I was afraid of the ocean all the way up to my 30s. But then when I was about 40, I thought that I needed to get over my fear, so for the last 14 years, I’ve been really trying to learn how to surf better. Before Jay Adams died, we were skating a lot together in pools, because we both rode for Hurley. I would see him at Hurley all the time and we would talk about surfing, and I would ask him all these questions, and then he was like, “Yeah, y’know, out of all the pool skaters all these years man, you’re one of the only guys that we felt held up to Dogtown standards.” And that made me kind of feel good. Me and Jay always got along great. Jay called me from Mexico literally two days before he died. He said, “Hey man, when I get back you’re gonna teach me to skate pools like you, and I wanna teach you to surf like me.” And I was like so looking forward to that moment to learn, to get some more skills, to have some coaching, which would’ve been a beautiful thing. I really miss Jay in that respect. Jay was all stoked that I was finally into surfing. He’d say, “You finally get it dude, you’ve come full circle”, and that made me stoked. Even Tony Alva said to me, “I heard you surf all the time, like you’ve gone full circle. Now you get what we’ve been doing all these years.” It does make a lot of sense to me. Surfing’s the closest thing to skating, and skating’s the closes thing to surfing. Dropping a wave is almost like dropping a pool and you get to the bottom cut a turn. So they’re very similar, and I can see the approach. Even when I was trying to surf a pool, I was trying to emulate what I felt like a surfer would do on a wave, if that makes sense. That’s why I think I’m such a line guy. Everybody’s always like, you got all these lines you do, how do you do these things you do sometimes, even though I don’t have all the tricks these guys got half the time.
[Kubo]. They actually went out of their way to be nice to me and talk to me a lot and encourage me, so I was pretty stoked on those two dudes. R: So when did you start riding for Santa Cruz? S: Well, I got in a little bit of beef with Kryptonics [Steve’s previous sponsor] and then at the Boulder contest I got pissed off and shot my board in the air. It’s so funny to think back now because I’ve been shooting my board and breaking my helmets and shit since I was a kid, but they got super mad at me because they thought I wasn’t being professional. Steve Olson was there, and he rode for Santa Cruz and he was all into punk rock and was like, “Fuck Kryptonics, come ride for Santa Cruz man we’ll be all punk rock and take over”, and I’m like, “Dude alright let’s do it.” And then shortly after that Dwayne quit his sponsor and jumped on Santa Cruz, and it was me, Olsen, and Dwayne against the world at that time, y’know. It actually worked out pretty well.
nowadays a lot of
it is hand in hand. Surfers love the
skaters and skaters love the surfers,
y’know what I mean?
R: One of your pro models for Santa Cruz was the Bevel? That was the first board that really had concave and defined tail and nose I presume? Because that was pretty influential on the surf side of things as well, just this kind of movement away from flat skateboards into having concaves. S: As surfboard technology was moving, so was skateboarding technology, and they were definitely coinciding with each other.
R: A lot of what guys like Lance Mountain, Jeff Kendall, and Christian Hosoi were doing on a skateboard has now moved into surfing and when you see the aerial surfing. So it’s kind of like surfing almost gave birth to skateboarding, and now skateboarding has given back to surfing. It’s like it’s gone full circle, very much like yourself. Do you follow any of the contest stuff or WSL stuff? S: I’m good friends with Peter King, who does the Tournotes, and he’s like an avid pool skater, so I’ve been skating with that guy for 20 years too. He got his own ridiculous pool where we
R: Well I mean, I’ve watched you skate for years, and it’s kind of astounding hearing that because your style is really surforientated. You’re quintessentially one of the concrete surfers, and I when I watch you skate it makes sense. I was lucky enough to meet and hang out with Jay and a few of the other guys and just talking to them you see how much of an influence surfing was on them. S: I’m not gonna say I didn’t like Jay [Adams] and Tony [Alva], but Tony was very stand-offish in those days. Very arrogant, and he hated us, even though I rode for him. We’ve had this mutual admiration for each other, but the guys in Dogtown that took a liking to me more than anyone I think were Jay [Adams] and Shogo
Main Times might change, but a pool is still a pool and a skater is still a skater.
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All the economics go out the door. All that racist crap goes out the door. Because in skateboarding there is none of that.
used to skate up until when they sold the house this past summer. So just through Peter, and through Hurley, I go to all the contests in California. I like watching ‘em. I have skated with John John before too. R: He’s an incredible skateboarder. S: Yeah. When John John was at the Trestles contest, three years ago, like kind of before he got big big, he wanted to go skateboard, and he took off with us to this pool and didn’t tell the Hurley guys. The Hurley guys found him and got kind of pissed off about it. They were like, “There’s no way you’re skating again when you’re at a contest”, like, “Surf season’s surf season”, y’know what I mean? I thought that was pretty freakin’ cool. Just for me, I always root for John John, number one. We always root for Kelly Slater too, because he’s the old guy. I like the older guys too ‘cause I’m the older guy. And I like watching the big wave surfers, because I think those guys are crazy. R: It’s crazy looking at how it used to be. Like surfers kind of transitioned into skateboarding back in the 70s, and then there was almost a phase where surfing wasn’t really cool to skateboarders for a while. Especially on the European side of things. S: Yeah, especially in the 90s, but nowadays a lot of it is hand in hand. Surfers love the skaters and skaters love the surfers, y’know what I mean? R: Skateboarding and surfing have always had this kind of intrinsic relationship where, whether they’ve hated each other or loved each other, everything seemed to progress alongside each other, and then, coincidence or not, they just both get in the Olympics at the same time. S: Yeah, pretty bizarre. R: You are a kind of original skate punk rocker, so what’s your thoughts on the evolution of surfing and skateboarding into the Olympics? S: You know, it’s kind of a weird thing, and I don’t dig it at all. But, on the other hand, it is kind of killer because our thing that we do has solidified, so to speak. It’s become interesting in culture. It’s good for what we do with the pool skating. Sometimes we’ll go to these WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
people’s houses and ask them if we can skate, and they’ll be like, “I saw that on ESPN!” So that definitely opens doors too. Skateboarders still get a lot of prejudice and a lot of “you guys are crazy” sorta comments. And we’re always fighting against the councils in the cities. We’re always fighting against those guys who get parks built and then close them because kids aren’t wearing pads or they’re drinking and smoking cigarettes. Kids will be kids. It doesn’t matter whether they’ll be skateboarders, football people, baseball people, it’s in every aspect of the world. So it’s not skateboarders whom are the bad people doing it. I feel like they still get that stigma, is what I’m trying to get at. And that’s something I’m trying to fight. So now with it being in the Olympics that actually helps our fight. So on one hand it’s kind of like, man, that’s what we’ve always done. We don’t want that to be there. But then on the other, if it’s done in a positive way, it could make things better. R: Do you think there’s any divisions being created in surfing and skating? Where you’ve got the anti-establishment, non-conformist skater, and then you’ve got that contest guy that’s playing up for his sponsors? S: There’s definitely that in both worlds. Even for me, I have my foot in the kinda contests and masters thing, but then I had my foot in the pool world which was kind of anti-that. So it’s good either way. It just depends what you’re into. The way I look at it, it’s skating, skating, skating. It’s cool however you look at it. And all the divisions that used to be there I think are kinda gone. You could go skate and have a session, and have a seven year old, and a 12 year old, and an 18 year old, and a 50 year old, and everybody’s skating and having a good time and all that shit goes out the door. That’s the cool thing I like about skateboarding. All the economics go out the door. All that racist crap goes out the door. Because in skateboarding there is none of that. That’s the cool thing. I mean, there’s a little bit more in surfing, but in skateboarding you have more black kids who skate, and you have more Mexican kids, and kids with colour. And you have white kids, and you have purple kids, and you have polka dot kids, y’know. So it doesn’t matter dude. It doesn’t matter what you’re social standing is. What matters is what you can do on a damn skateboard, and all the kids appreciate that, ‘cause they know how damn hard it is. Surfing’s kind of the same way, but while surfing’s not a very expensive sport, at the same time you have to buy a board, you gotta buy a wetsuit, you have to get to the beach, unless you live by the beach and have access, so the socioeconomic thing weighs in just a little bit more. But at the same time, I’ve seen all kinds of kids surfing. Different cases, races. I’ve been to Japan, I’ve been to Brazil. Everywhere I go I skate, but I try to surf too, which is kind of cool, because I get to surf some of these cool spots. R: So what’s your plans for the rest of the year? S: I’m gonna go to Carlsbad right now and we’re gonna go surf! That’s the plan. R: Sweet! I’ll let you crack on. Go get some waves!
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The lack of rain in Cali is perfect for empty pools. Here is Salba doing his bit for community and cleaning out another one, before tearing it to pieces.
Steve showing one of his 80’s board graphics, the famous 1989’ Salba Voodoo. The treasures and skate heritage hidden in his garage would keep us amused for hours.
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A SELECTION OF CLASSIC UPS AND DOWNS FROM WAVELENGTH'S HISTORY AS TOLD BY THE SEASONED VETERANS OF YESTERYEAR
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In case you weren’t aware, the good ship Wavelength has been floating around these turbulent seas for over 35 years. While the current crew of hard working seamen are doing a sterling job of keeping everything shipshape, at this time of blissful retrospective we can’t ignore the many captains and cabin boys who have found themselves stationed somewhere on its hallowed decks. Since our time aboard this old girl has been relatively short, we figured it would make sense to hand over story telling responsibly to these weary eyed, sun beaten and wind battered sailors of days gone by. We asked some of our most prestigious contributors (well anyone who answered the email) to regale their most pleasurable and painful experiences while serving under the sails of HMS Length. So from ex-editors, fired staff photographers, brown nosing cover stars and respected authors, it’s time for a story or two...
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TIM NUNN
EXPENSES
TIM NUNN Photographer / Editor 2005 - 2015
It was a time when magazines had budgets. Not just a couple of quid here or there, but let’s come up with a fucking crazy idea kind of budget. This was the craziest I could muster: I’d fly to Vancouver, get in a taxi, a ferry, a bus, be met by Timmy Turner and Ian Battrick, buy a gun, a shit load of beer, some crisps, get on another boat, and get dropped off in the wilderness for four weeks to see what would happen. What was more I was the editor, so I could divert an entire issues budget into this and no one could say a thing. So I did it. The only thing is, how could all this possibly come together from just a few emails? My boss was meant to have put a thousand quid in my bank for expenses at the other end. When I got to Gatwick, there was nothing. In fact, I was flying to Canada with £3.80 to my name. I was a little concerned. Some 12-hours later I landed in Vancouver, terrified that customs were going to ask to see a bank statement,
You also got used to Wolves barking and howling at night, but you never got used to the growl of the Mountain Lions.
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much like their American counterparts had done a few months earlier much to my horror. But no, I breezed though, got a high-five and a “welcome to Canada, we love the British”, walked straight out, found a cash point, discovered I had been paid, summoned a taxi, and within an hour I was on a ferry sipping a beer, heading for my connection to Tofino on the other side. When I pulled into town, it was dark, and four figures were waiting for me. Timmy Turner passed me a beer, Ian Battrick and Eric Ramsey abused, and Sepp Bruhwiler said something about me being bear fodder for the next month. We drove to an off-licence, bought $750 dollars worth of drinkable lager, and then went to bed. At 4:30 am I phoned my wife, said goodbye for four weeks, got on a rib which was severely overloaded, and disappeared into the mist. Three hours or so later we pulled up into a little cove with a slab in front, got dropped off, set up camp, and cracked a couple of beers.
TIM NUNN
What followed was blissful no contact with the world. No phones, no radio, just you versus nature – or, more accurately, you and nature. Without the ping of likes or emails it was an absolute joy. Yes, for a guy from Suffolk who’s closest encounter with a wild animal is a Pheasant, the first confrontation with a bear was a tad worrying, but you soon got used to them. You also got used to Wolves barking and howling at night, but you never got used to the growl of the Mountain Lions. I spent four incredible weeks shooting, surviving, and figuring out what a waste of time modern life was. We fished, sat through hurricane force winds, dealt with floods, dealt with bears, and got a couple of days of mental surf. It was simply the best adventure I have been on, and probably will ever again.
BOTTOM The perfect hiding place, safe from the sharp -toothed Canadian wildlife. Photo: Tim Nunn
ERUPTION The phone call ended like this: “There’s a volcano erupting in Iceland, Batty. Lets go”. “Okay,” I replied. That is how a surf trip should be planned. What could go wrong? Well, let me tell you what can go wrong. Airspace was closing, and fast. In fact, Iceland was already heavily restricted, and it seemed like the last Icelandair flight out of the UK was leaving from Glasgow the next day. We did everything we could to be on that flight, but its time moved forward and we were nowhere nearby. We were told that Ian only just managed to get off The Rock (Jersey), as even airspace for the tiny paper airplanes they use there was closing, but he did make it to Gatwick. We had a couple of seats on an Iceland Express flight that had managed made it to London, so at least our plane was in the right place. Sadly, it was going nowhere, and Gatwick resembled a refugee camp. People were very disgruntled, and when we told them during polite conversation where we were going – to go surf in front of a volcano, the one that was screwing up their holiday – they became even more pissed off. In fact, a couple were down right aggressive, but whatever. Eventually, after days on the floor, UK airspace reopened, and everyone got on their flights. Everyone, that is, except for us. You see the sting in the tail was that all this time Icelandic airspace had been open, but as winds swung and opened up Europe, it shut down Iceland. So, we were still stuck. Every few hours we’d trundle down to the desk to collect a food voucher and the latest news, and after three days we were told there was a window to fly into a tiny airstrip at the wrong end of the island. We were on it. 69
As we approached, some 200-miles out, the plane started to divert. There was a chance we’d have to fly all the way back, the cabin crew informed us. Groans resonated around the cabin. Eventually, however, we descended out of the clouds into a valley flanked by high mountains and landed at a tiny airstrip which had all inbound flights to Iceland. We then had to wait for a bus for three hours. That then took us through snowfields, round fjords, and eventually, after a further six hours, into a cold bus station in Reykjavik. It was too late to get our hire car, so we slept in a freezing bus shelter. The next morning we picked up the car. It was cold outside, but it was ash falling from the sky, not snow. Timmy Turner managed to get a flight in from Seattle, and we drove as fast as possible to the Eyjafjallajökull volcano. It was foggy. We’d come all this way to see it, and now we couldn’t. We could hear it though, so we pulled up close by and slept under a truck. Next day we got crazily close to an erupting volcano. We were just a couple of miles away, and we got to watch lava bombs being ejected into the atmosphere. We surfed quite a bit as well (although sadly not in front of the volcano), and whilst it was a nightmare getting there, it turned out not so bad. Let’s be honest, even the worst surf trip is better than almost everything else anyway.
TOP Exploding mountains do have a habit of ruining your best laid travel plans. Photo: Tim Nunn TAL L TAL E S
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BEN SELWAY
L I F E A F T E R L E N G T H
B E N S E LWAY Staff Photographer 2006 - 2012
When I first found out that I was getting fired from Wavelength Magazine, I couldn’t be less fussed. “Who cares?!” I said to myself. Sure, I’d miss the free holidays abroad, but I’d increasingly grown weary of being recognised, signing autographs, and attending movie premieres with Dane Reynolds. Perhaps, one day in the future, the surf industry would need my services again? Greg Martin or Tim Nunn would invite me back to do a Selway Special Issue: “We’re doing a special project! We need you, Ben.” But I would decline: “No thanks! Every issue was a Selway Special. You might remember all of those interesting articles I produced and them being the key ingredient behind Wavelength’s success!” Ultimately, I felt used – like a haggered girl of the night. So, alas, the time had come when I had to turn my back on the surfing world forever and get a real job. I contemplated a host of different careers. The first option was becoming a camping store assistant, which would entitle me to 20% off all outdoor attire. I then thought about being a fireman, of being put in charge of extinguishing blazes. I would then go out in the evenings wearing no underwear and strip for sexy ladies in my uniform to earn extra cash. Or, maybe even working as a nightclub toilet attendant and being responsible for sanitising men after doing their ablutions. I would set my sights high and become the greatest toilet attendant that ever existed, even offering added extra’s such as wiping their messy parts. After all, I was the top of the pile in the photo world. What’s to say I couldn’t soar to the dizzying heights of toiletuser sanitation? But, when things didn’t quite happen for me in any of those roles, I became a top international wedding photographer. I rapidly grew bored, and at the point I was about to get all depressed about missing Wavelength, Lewis’ name pinged in my inbox asking me for a gritty 500 word tale for their 250th issue. I was elated! I trawled through all of my past experiences. What could I write about? I thought about the time we went to El
Andrew Griffin broke his back. Boy, did he make a meal of it...
RIGHT It’s these shallow pits that sometimes end up landing you in situations…
MAIN …like this one, where we find Jeeka looking more than thrilled at the prospect of a lengthy stay in a particularly beige French hospital.
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Salvador and narrowly evaded two fatal shootings, found a pistol on the beach, and had to pay for protection. Or, when we upset Lyndon Wake for going out for one drink too many (he wasn’t legal to consume alcohol) in Spain, and Cotty wound up in jail for having too much. There was also that time in Panama when we all watched an American man make love to a charming prostitute from start to finish – for a thrilling 16 minutes! I decided it was too painful to write about the occasion when all of the photos went missing from a fun-packed fortnight Indonesia, so I contemplated that terrifying day when we went hiking in a secret location and got lost, then remembering Cotty’s hissy fit and watching him throw someone’s bag into a bush. But, as I approach my word limit, I think I’ll regale a short tale at the beginning of my distinguished career when, in France, Andrew Griffin broke his back. Boy, did he make a meal of it! All I remember was him bravely riding into a close-out tube and emerging from the water complaining he’d gone head-first into the sand. He moaned about neck and back pain, so I sensibly instructed him to get to his feet and walk up the sand dunes before driving him to the nearest hospital an hour away. I even carried his board for him. Later it was confirmed by doctors he’d snapped his spine. Unfortunately, I had to leave him alone in France, because it was deadline, and I didn’t have the heart to not show up to work and make Tim angry. Cue a lot more moaning from the recovering Griff! At least he’s walking around now. And that concludes my return to Wavelength. 185 words over the limit, but hey, I’ve been out of the game for a while.
TAL L TAL E S
SAM LAMIROY
NAT U R A L I S E D I remember being selected for the British Team for the first time after winning the junior qualifying event in Woolacombe. We were all set to compete in the 1994 ISA world games in Rio, Brazil. Thinking about it, there are a whole bunch of stories around that event, but it started with me not even having a British passport. Being a kid from Belgium, but having lived in England for about seven years at that time, I
SAM LAMIROY P ro S u r fe r
never really needed one, or citizenship for that matter, until this career defining moment came along. When it came to booking the flights for the team, my predicament soon became clear: can’t have a Belgian in the British team, can we? So, with a lot of help from a friend’s dad (thanks Helen and Mr. Cruickshanks) who was an MP or the local mayor, and some fast work from the consulate, we managed to (legitimately) naturalise me, and I became British in the days between the end of the event in the UK and the start of the Rio spectacle. Quite a feat, even in those days! Elated that I had made the team, the flight, the legal requirements, and South America in general with my new countrymen and women, you can imagine my delirium on scoring probably the best barrel of my life (up to that point) and right in front of our hotel. We were staying in a beachfront, high-rise building, probably called the “Grand International”. The British team were way up in the clouds. 15th floor, or something. There was a four lane grand boulevard, then the beach, and then the waves at Barra da Tijuca. On this particular day it was six to eightfoot, death-pit, close-out shorebreak fun/hell. At least it seemed that way. All I remember is
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being absolutely petrified. I don’t remember
for the first time in my life. I’d had little tubes
anyone else from the team coming in for a surf,
before, but nothing like this breathing, spitting,
but I’m sure someone was out there with me.
churning monster! A sense of relief, happiness,
Don’t think I was brave enough to go out by
primal elation, and pride surged up through my
myself. A mutant closeout marched towards me.
body and manifested in a mighty roar.
I mustered the courage, paddled hard, made the
Okay, I was about 17. Probably not particularly
drop, pulled into a sandy cavern, and started to
manly or ferocious, more of a celebratory
pump. For what seemed an eternity there was
yippee, but, more importantly, my scream was
no way this was going to end well. It just kept
heard. Not just by the few surfers sharing the
going and going, and then, just as I knew the
line up with me, not just by the nubile Brazilians
end was close, Armageddon reigned upon me.
using their curves to hide what little there was
There was an audible whoosh and the feeling as
of their swimwear, not even just by the throngs
if thousands of tiny acupuncture needles stung
of people strolling along or on their bikes or in
my back and face. My hair (I had some back
cars driving along the Avenida. No, my scream
then) was blown forward. I struggled to stay on
was heard by most of the British team, across
my feet, and then, nothing but blue sky, quiet,
the beach, over the motorway, and up on the
and the realisation that I had done something
15th floor in their hotel rooms.
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SAM LAMIROY
Guts proceed to remove his shorts, hoist his family jewels out of the way, creating a direct line of approach to his undeniably hairy ass cheeks and delightfully - rusty butt hole.
BOTTY MAIN Sam’s story is from so long along ago that not even The British Surf Museum had any photo’s from his trip, so here’s an appropriately embarrassing shot from ages ago.
Upon my victorious return I was quickly summoned, literally within minutes, to the Team GB Kangaroo Court. Cool, I thought. Being from Belgium I had never come across this term before, thinking it was some sort of celebration or ceremony. All the while I was a little disappointed that no one had mentioned my epic heroics in the surf. I thought maybe one person had seen my crazy pit. In fact, there was even a slightly somber mood in the camp. “Sam, you stand accused of getting a pretty decent barrel,” the judge said. It had been seen. Oh the delight, I thought to myself. “Whereupon you claimed with such unreasonable volume and vigour that the entire team heard it, along with the rest of the surfing world gathered here in Brazil and thus, bringing shame upon and your recently adopted country. How do you plead? Oh, before you answer, please note 73
that a guilty verdict is punishable by Botty. Do you understand?” I understood that, without ever having heard the word “Botty” before, this was not a good thing. Even a couple of the Welsh surfers in the team winced and shuddered at its mere mention. But, how bad could it be, anyway. They had seen my wave and nothing could ruin that. We all knew I was guilty. I even revelled in the adulation which was swiftly followed by the verdict we all saw coming. Pinned down on my back by the rest of my teammates, head firmly clamped, looking straight at the ceiling, I saw my world going dark. Even all these years later I can recall, out of the corner of my eye, seeing the largest, oldest member of the team (let’s just call him Guts) proceed to remove his shorts, hoist his family jewels out of the way, creating a direct line of approach to his undeniably hairy ass cheeks and delightfully-rusty butt hole. Looking up, I felt like a tiny fishing boat passing under the Colossus of Rhodes, with the impressive, golden gusset slowly aiming for the tip of my nose. Inching closer, there was no escape, until the inevitable touch down, ring on nose and ass hair on face completed the extinguishing of my previous un-shiftable happiness. Once daylight was restored, and I could breathe (oxygen) again, things did not get much better. Amongst the hysterical laughter and pandemonium I was stripped naked, tied up with leashes, and thrown in the lift, sent down towards the lobby of the packed luxury hotel. I did manage to escape halfway down, but that was also not without incident. That’s for another time. In this modern age an episode like this might be construed as a legitimate case of abuse, but I think it was actually pretty fair. I don’t think anyone got any kind of seedy pleasure out of it. I certainly didn’t. If anything, it taught me to consider very carefully about claiming any future waves. TAL L TAL E S
ALEX WADE
BOOZE
ALEX WADE Wr i t e r , f r e e l a n c e journalist and m e d i a l a w y e r.
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Hideous hangover. Al and Jesse dragged me out at 11.30am for a trip to Rousay. Weather rubbish and serious alcohol poisoning started to kick in. Spent much of the day throwing up and sleeping in the back of the van. Awful. No waves though, so at least I didn’t miss out on anything. The day before, towards the end of January 2007, I’d arrived in the Orkney capital of Kirkwall full of good intentions. With me were respected northeast big wave charger Jesse Davies and top surf snapper Al Mackinnon. We had a simple mission: explore the northernmost surf breaks of the British Isles. It was January when we arrived, and the sun was shining. There was a lovely sense of incipient exploration. There was even a friendly dog called Sancho. What could possibly go wrong? My diary for our first trip reads, “Hit the road and checked Skaill Bay. A howling westerly was messing everything up. Checked Marwick and other spots. No good.” It was the same everywhere. That evening we had some beers in Stromness with some local surfers. Good lads, says my diary. We then went back to Kirkwall. Al doesn’t drink, and Jesse is moderate. Back then I’d tackled some demons, even taking up boxing to try and vanquish them, but every now and then I was all too capable of resuming my career as one of Britain’s leading binge-drinkers. Sesh on back in Kirkwall. Rampaged around here and there and ended up at some bloke’s house 74
drinking lager till God knows when. I have no memory of that night, but I do remember the next day was hell. All I could do was lie flat in the back of Al’s van as he and Jesse scoured the islands for surf spots that weren’t decimated by the wind. Lie flat, that is, and, whenever the van was stationary, haul myself outside and throw up. In the evening we boarded a ferry to Lerwick, the main town on the Shetland Islands. We got the lowdown from some helpful locals and drove around for three days, checking out various breaks. It was force eight and onshore wherever we went. Al fell in, leaving Jesse and I to take on the only remaining challenge: surviving Up-Helly-Aa, a Viking festival that takes place in Lerwick on the last Tuesday of every January. Here’s my diary entry: “Cometh Up-Helly-Aa, cometh the carnage. Spectacular watching the Shetlanders march with torches and set fire to a Viking longboat. Afterwards it was to one of the ‘halls’, where the festivities are held – a local school turned, for 12 hours, into a vodka-soaked scene of mayhem. I contributed my fair share, getting into a tricky situation which was nearly ‘One Lone Englishman vs. All of the Shetlands’. Jesse was far too wise to get involved. As ever, the booze accomplished its mental magic.” Despite an “Up-Helly-Aa Survivors’ Breakfast” the next day, my hangover was my worst ever. I threw up all day and into the night, and on that last day, the wind dropped. Al and Jesse got some waves. I didn’t. I was too busy wondering if I was going to die.
ALEX WADE
LESS BOOZE Nowadays, at the ripe old age of 50, I rarely drink, if at all, but it was a March 2008 surf trip to Barbados that, even more than boxing, obsessive running, talking to well-intentioned counsellors and any number of other devices, showed me how life could be different. Up at 6am, out surfing straightaway with Harry. Waves: small. Sea: turquoise, warm. Turtles in the line-up. Had a few good rides on a longboard. Surfed again in the afternoon, and was delighted to see Elliot pick up a board and paddle out. Both my sons, surfing with me here in Barbados: stoked. We were staying at Surfer’s Point, a mellow place on the southeast of the island owned and run by Zed Layson, one of the coolest guys on the planet.
LEFT
RIGHT
Barbados, life changing perfection.
Alex, Harry and Zed on the path to enlightenment.
I’d met Zed on a previous trip to Barbados and was determined to head back to his place. The left point there is easy and fun, perfect for beginners and intermediates. Just down the coast are two classy breaks, Freights and South Point. And a few miles north, of course, there’s the legendary Soup Bowl, one of the best right-hand reef breaks in the world. We scored. Big time. After two days surfing small
Here’s how it began: Zed told us Freights was
lefts at Surfer’s Point, along came the swell, lighting
working. Headed over there, and it sure was. What
up Freights and South Point.
a setting. Low cliffs looking out over line after pumping line of chest to shoulder high lefts and rights, bathed in sunshine. Harry and I were out for hours. Got a ton of waves. Later: thinking this is the way to live – up at 6am every day, surfing in the morning (today was head high, perfect Freights,
Lie flat, that is, and, whenever the van was stationary, haul myself outside and throw up.
epic), back for breakfast, some reading, hanging out with the kids, then another surf, lunch, then another surf, then a light meal. And, no booze. Right at the end Zed told us the Soup Bowl was on. I was apprehensive, and so was Harry. I drove to Bathsheba with Zed and Christian. Soup Bowl looked messy, onshore, and intimidating. Christian paddled straight out and ripped. Harry and I followed. I felt nervous; I thought it was weird the way big sets would just come out of nowhere, and yet from the shore it seemed okay. Paddled for two waves. Didn’t make the drop. Got nailed. Got the third one right, though. Harry surfed well. Totally, totally stoked. What an awesome trip this has been. I now know, many years later, that whether the surf is good, bad or indifferent, the binges don’t help. Here’s to the surf gods and the good people of Barbados for shining a very bright light on the path to this realisation.
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TAL L TAL E S
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S U MME R WE TS UI T GUI DE
nineplus.com
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1. Mens Retro Fullsuit The Nineplus Retro Fullsuit - now in its 17th year represents what we believe to be one of the most durable, warm, flexible and close to a custom as possible. Produced in Yamamoto Number 38 for Fall 2017 this is a suit which is extremely modern in terms of fit, comfort and weight while retaining the retro styling of a classic single lined smooth-skin wetsuit. The weight of the materials weigh in at just 2.2lbs (1kg). The suits have minimal water retention as the outside single lined smooth skin acts as a membrane and is impenetrable by water. The suits lining being nylon will dry out in under 15 minutes when left to dry inside out. The chest is lined in Zirconium thermal polypropylene which being water resistant keeps the core chest area warm. The leg panelling uses a complete piece of nylon to eliminate any seat seams and also doubles in flexibility to help when sitting up on the surfboard as it keeps the squat much more flexible. NWS-RFS32 - ÂŁ299, NWS-RFS43 - ÂŁ319
2. Ladies Catsuit The ladies catsuit is both iconic, simplistic and classic. The 'corset' inspired chest panels use 6 separate pieces of neoprene and are glued together to create the perfect fit on the torso while also ensuring that the suit remains feminine. Concealed zips on the ankle opening to help getting the suit on and off and a longer front zip for easier entry. We have always tried to make the ladies wetsuits in their own unique style, we first put a front zipper in the wetsuits back in 2003 in orders to break the front panel up. Basing the design on Anne Hathaway in Batman it also gives the wearer a very flattering look that is both sexy but also functional and warm. Every winter this wetsuit model for us sells out.
+44 (0) 1637 499 239 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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c-skins.com
1. Wired Chest Zip The C-Skins Team favourite season after season, the Wired range continues to evolve with our latest features for 2017 making this the most innovative and technically designed suit in the range. The Dryknit-lined torso combined with Xtend ultra stretch neoprene give the best combination for warmth and stretch while Xtend Isolation seams make the suit completely sealed and durable from head to toe. Other features include Lockdown wrist cuffs for keeping water out, Iris neck closure, free floating Enigma zip entry, Air Foam and HyPE ankle seals. Get into your Summer rubber sooner. Available in 3:2 and 4:3. From £249.99
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2. ReWired Chest Zip The ReWired takes the DNA from our core Wired collection and morphs it into an all-out high performance comp level suit perfect for summer sessions. Huge panels of 100% Xtend neoprene offer mind-bending range of movement for explosive surfing, while the Xtend Isolation taped seam body and Dryknit thermal back panel keeps the blood pumping between sets. Other features include free floating Enigma zip panel for flush protection, Iris neck closure for easy entry and FutureFit prebent body shaping. This suit is all about stretch. Available 3:2 and 4:3. From £185.00
3. ReWired Zipperless The ultimate C-Skins summer suit now in zipperless – all the features of the ReWired minus the zip make this suit an even lighter, stretchier and higher performance option for summer 2017. Easy Iris entry combined with the Enigma Zipperless panel make the suit surprisingly easy to put on. C-Skins’ exclusive shoulder design means that it’s almost impossible for water to enter the suit. Glued and blind stitched seams, strategic Xtend Isolation taping, Dryknit back panel. Available in 3:2. From £190.00
+44 (0) 1208 78 845 79
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ar.com aldersportswe
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1. Evo Fire men 3/2 The Evo Fire men 3/2 is a serious bit of kit designed to slip on in early Spring when the air temperature is warming but the sea is still cold. Starting on the outside you will find “X” stretch nylon throughout with all the flexibility you could ask for and Liquid Seal on seams for a longer life free from leaks. Moving to the inside you’ll find “FDL” on the main body panels which works by trapping air against the skin which helps maintain body temperature and yes I almost forgot – it dries super quick allowing you to get two sessions in a day with one wetsuit. 3 x 2 Blindstitch seams / Chest zip / 100% “X” stretch / 50% fast drying aerocore lining inside / 90% liquid seal seams outside / Double lined throughout / Duratec knee pads. RRP £160
2. Pyro CZ junior 3/2 The Pyro 3/2 combines “X” stretch on the upper body and lower leg with standard quality neoprene on the main body. The inside of the torso is lined with aerocore helping to maintain core body temperature and critical seams are taped inside for durability. 3 x 2 Blindstitch seams / Chest zip / 50% “X” stretch / 10% aerocore lining inside / Double lined throughout / Duratec knee pads. Junior £90, Ladies and Mens £120
3. Stealth men 3/2 Quality is standard! The Stealth is a simple and effective great value suit constructed from high quality materials and super attention to detail you expect from all Alder suits. ”X” stretch on the shoulders and sleeves combines with standard quality neoprene add up to great fun in men ladies and junior fits. 3 x 2 Blindstitch seams / Back zip / 40% “X” stretch / Single lined torso / Adjustable neck / Duratec knee pads. Junior £75, Ladies and Mens £85 +44 (0) 1566 783 444 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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solasports.co.uk
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1/2/3 H2O 3/2
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The h2o is Sola’s latest high performance summer suit built with one purpose in mind-unrestricted warmth in the water. They've combined the lightest most flexible neoprene available with intelligent seam layout to give you supreme flexibility and enhanced warmth capabilities. The reduced panel layout means less seams, less water penetration and increased range of movement without compromising heat retention. Easy on,easy off chest zip entry system means you can be suited in no time.. Perfect for spring to autumn use. Features Featherlight - ss-1 neoprene for a lighter more comfortable suit 100 % 4-Way super stretch throughout Glued and blind stitched seams for zero water penetration 3Mm torso and legs, 2mm arms Anatomical pre-bent design with reduced panels and less seams Biaxial heat tape reinforcement in critical positions Ballistic nylon kneepad Glideskin collar for extra comfort and flexibility Easy entry one pull chest zip system Mens & Ladies Fullsuit RRP £120 Mens Short Arm Springsuit RRP £110
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om eu.billabong.c
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1. Furnace Pro 3/2- Zipperless Take heat and flexibility to the ultimate level of performance with the Furnace PRO. The Furnace PRO combines Furnace Carbon lining - the warmest thermal lining available - with engineered seam placement for maximum flexibility, and a Drymax Zipperless entry system. It’s the ultimate pick for high performance, lightweight, heat. £245
2. Revolution Tri Bong 3/2 - Chest Zip The Billabong Revolution 302 tri bong chest zip wetsuit is loaded with high-end features and materials such as quick dry hollow fiber internal lining. The Revolution Series is modern take on the heritage wetsuits of the past, a minimalistic approach to aesthetics functional modern materials design techniques. £189
3. Absolute Comp 3/2 - Chest Zip The Absolute Comp is designed to function with strategically placed seams for functional performance, a combination of premium materials and advanced construction techniques make for the best fitting performing value wetsuit available. £149 +44 (0) 1604 649 241 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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roxy-uk.co.uk
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1. Pop Surf 1mm - Chest Zip Long Sleeve Springsuit Express your femininity and style in the waves as water temperatures rise above 19 °C/66 °F in Roxy's ultra-light 1mm shorty. Long sleeves and a cheeky cut combined with a retro inspired front zip and stash back pocket make this suit with metallic accents a real head turner, whether you choose True Black or Blue Aster. £85.00
2. Performance 3/2mm - Chest Zip Full Wetsuit This 3/2mm wetsuit is made from FN lite neoprene packed with air cells for the lightest of lightweight warmth, this thermal smoothie neoprene is flexible and wind & water repellent. Hydrolock seams prevent leaks and Ecto-Flex Knee pads protect you and your board! £320
3. Pop Surf 3/2mm - Back Zip Full Wetsuit As the weather warms This lighter option 3/2mm POP Surf wetsuit offers you maximum paddle power and explosive manoeuvres thanks to FN lite neoprene technology, plus Ecto-Flex knee pads for unlimited movement and durability. Embrace your femininity and flaunt your style with the eye catching monochrome Optic Dot print or vibrant ocean spray Granatina print. £180
+44 (0) 808 164 1405 83
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vissla.com
1. 7 Seas 3/2mm Full Suit in Black and White 1
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ARMTH & STRETCH - 100% Super Stretch light neoprene - lighter, W warmer, softer, stretchier, easier to put on and take off, and allows for more freedom of movement / Thermal hollow fiber lining insulates heat and dries fast. FIT - Tailored fit - anatomically correct engineered body lines allow for unrestricted performance and warmth. DURABLE & WATERTIGHT - Chest-zip entry, minimal bulk with contoured water tight design / Tripled glued, double blind stitched seams / Vissla super stretch tape allows for maximum seam sealing while having unrestricted stretch and comfort / Knee pad - supratex abrasion resistant jersey for flexibility and strength / Liquid taped cuff seals to prevent flushing / Easy access secure key cord. £215
2. 7 Seas 2/2mm LS Spring Suit in Dark Grey
ade for cool water: 65 - 70° F / 18 - 21° C / WARMTH & M STRETCH - 100% Super Stretch light neoprene - lighter, warmer, softer, stretchier, easier to put on and take off, and allows for more freedom of movement / Thermal lining insulates heat and dries fast. FIT- Tailored fit - anatomically correct engineered body lines allow for unrestricted performance and warmth. DURABLE & WATERTIGHT - Chest-zip entry, minimal bulk with contoured water tight design / Tripled glued, double stitched seam only penetrates one side of the neoprene, allowing high stretch, strength and minimal water entry /Easy access secure key cord. £145
3. 2 mm Front Zip Jacket in Dark Navy
The 2mm Front Zip Jacket is a 2mm neoprene front zip vest in super stretch fabric, triple glued inside and blind stitched sealed seam outside. Featuring throwback-style two tone color body, screen prints at chest and at back, the 2mm Front Zip Jacket gives you the same 70's-cool as the vest, but with added warm (sleeves). Made from 80% Neoprene/ 20% Nylon. £85 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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circle-one.co.uk
1. E LEV8 Mens 3/2mm GBS Chest-Zip Summer Wetsuit (Full Liquid Seal)
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Boasting the same feature line-up of its winter stable-mate, the 3/2mm ELEV8 is our most progressive Summer GBS suit yet. The key feature is the ‘Aqualock’ adjustable neck system allowing you to get the perfect seal on that crucial neck area. Add to that 4-way super-stretch neoprene for a luxury fit, 100% external Liquid Sealed Seams, hydrophobic front and back panels and internal ultraseal on wrist and ankle and you have a suit which excels in use and function. 3/2 £170.00
2. ARCTIC Mens 4/3mm GBS 3-Season Wetsuit The ARCTIC 4/3mm 3-Season suit hails from our entry-level GBS wetsuit range with no compromise on essential features so you get a lot of suit at a fantastic price point. The 4/3mm makes the perfect option for those late Spring sessions when the air is warmer but the sea is playing catch-up.. Key features are glide-skin adjustable collar for customised fit, hydrophobic print on chest and back panels, 4-way super-stretch neoprene on under-arm, shoulder, lower leg panels and super tough ”core-tex” knee pads. 4/3 £90.00
3. DIVA Womens 3/2mm GBS Summer Wetsuit The DIVA 3/2mm, our most gorgeous womens suit to date. Feminine and built to perform, the DIVA draws upon the winning features of its winter guise and is a serious summer contender. Team rider tested, the DIVA boasts ‘Aqualock’ glide-skin adjustable collar for customised fit, wind-cheating hydrophobic print on chest and back panels (designed for warmth and to protect against nail nicks), 4-way super-stretch neoprene, polypro-lined chest and barrier system. 3/2 £100.00 0330 043 1256
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oneill.com
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1. Psycho One F.U.Z.E. The Psycho One minimal seam madness is now available in F.U.Z.E. and Z.E.N. Zip Closures. This is the ultimate highperformance cold water wetsuit. Built with ultra gooey TechnoButter 2 Neoprene and ultra-minimal seam styling. Offers unrestricted mobility, enhanced durability and incredible fit. The Psycho One will raise your performance level to new heights. Also available in Youth F.U.Z.E. Entry. Thickness: 3/2, SRP: £229.95
2. Hyperfreak F.U.Z.E. Full The Hyperfreak F.U.Z.E. is constructed with super light TechnoButter 2 neoprene, clean graphics and insane color blocking. Featuring Lumbar Seamless Design (LSD), unfinished cuffs, and durable Krypto Knee Padz, the lightweight, quality materials and attention to detail make this another team inspired favorite. Thickness: 3/2, SRP: £199.95
3. Hyperfreak F.U.Z.E. Short Sleeve Full The Hyperfreak F.U.Z.E. Short Sleeve Full is constructed with super light TechnoButter 2 neoprene, clean graphics and insane color blocking. Featuring Lumbar Seamless Design (LSD), unfinished cuffs, and durable Krypto Knee Padz, the lightweight, quality materials and attention to detail make this another team inspired favorite. Thickness: 2mm, SRP: £169.95 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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ripcurl.eu
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1. Ladies G-Bomb Zip Free The ultimate super stretch suit for ladies! E4 Neoprene offers the ultimate stretch and performance, and E4 taping increases warmth and also maintains the stretch. Zip free entry is easy to use and watertight. Rip Curl's lightest and highest performance wetsuit also comes with a sublimated printed version to keep you looking good whilst shredding! 3x2mm £259.99, 4x3mm £269.99
2. Mens Flashbomb Zip Free Rip Curl's pinnacle and award winning Flashbomb has been upgraded with E5 Flashlining, that is lighter, warmer and more flexible than it's predecessor! E5 taping increases the warmth and comfort without compromising stretch, making the World's fastest drying wetsuit a must have for any surfer. 3x2mm £359.99, 4x3mm £374.99
3. Dawn Patrol Chest Zip For the surfer that wants a high performance, durable wetsuit, look no further than the Dawn Patrol. E4 neoprene action panels, Flashdry lining panels, stress point taping and free flex neoprene body panels all combine to create a great value wetsuit without compromising on performance. 3x2mm £189.99, 4x3mm £199.99
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.uk snuggwetsuits.co
1. MINI ZIP
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The Mini Zip is a made to measure wetsuit which uses similar materials to the Sabotage, utilising Yamamoto Aero Zirconium fibre fleece yarn and mega stretch 7000 combining heat retention with flexibility, also available in two versions, “The Hot One” or the “Alternative” both variations are constructed to the highest standards that you would expect from Snugg. Constructed by hand in the UK, - built to be warm and flexible, built to last.
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2. SABOTAGE 2
he Sabotage 2 is a made to measure wetsuit, with Ultra Span T neoprene throughout for maximum flexibility, interlocking zip flap water barrier panels and glued, blindstitched and taped seams. Available in two versions, “The Hot One” or the “Alternative” The Hot One has Yamamoto Aero Zirconium fibre fleece yarn on the body and upper leg from the knee, the Alternative has it in the chest only. Constructed by hand in the UK, - built to be warm and flexible, built to last.
3. SABOTAGE “ALTERNATIVE” The same as the “Hot One” but without Aero Zirconium in the legs. the Sabotage is a made-to-measure wetsuit that has aero Zirconium hollow fibre yarn on the body and the upper leg. Plus it uses limestone based neoprene as the ultimate thermo barrier, coupled with Ultrapan neoprene. So the suit combines heat retention with flexibility. Add in blind stitching, heat sealed taped seams and an interlocking Y-flap water barrier, and you’ve probably got the warmest and most flexible suit money can buy. +44 (0) 1637 878488 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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xcelwetsuits.eu
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1. Infiniti Comp TDC 3/2mm
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Xcel’s Infiniti Comp TDC is winner of ‘Wetsuit of the Year’ at The 2017 SIMA Awards. Fast drying, light weight and naturally hydrophobic are some of the key features that make the Infiniti Comp stand above the competition. Not to mention that TDC is the warmest wetsuit lining ever, with smart fibres that convert body heat into infrared energy for maximum warmth and performance. Seamless body panels and lightweight V-Foam is used to make the Infiniti Comp TDC significantly lighter, stretchier and softer than other wetsuits. £260
2. Infiniti Comp Short Sleeve 2mm Full suit The Infiniti Comp is designed for maximum stretch and performance. The X2 front entry system keeps more water out, inner crossover neck panels and a magnetic zip closure for easy entry. Premium 100% UltraStretch neoprene, lightweight quick dry Lining from the chest to knees. Glued & blind-stitched seams with inner thermo dry seam tape to seal more warmth in and improve durability. The perfect suit for the sunny summers day or French early mornings. £200
3. Axis Comp 3/2mm Axis X2 Comp New to the line in 2017. The axis comp has brought high end features to an affordable price point. A full nylon exterior and 100% UltraStretch neoprene the Axis Comp is lighter and offers maximum flexability by utilising Xcel’s trademark “less seams more stretch” philosophy. Finally Xcel’s X2 front entry system means easy entry and minimal flushing.. £170 89
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g u l.c o m
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1. Flexor III 3/2mm BS CZ Wetsuit The Gul Flexor III has been developed for stretch and warmth. Using Guls’ 150% super stretch neoprene and a toasty thermal lining. This suit will keep you in the water for hours. Added to this Guls’ taped Inner seams and outer liquid seams provide you with a suit loaded with futures at exceptional value for money. £190
2. Response FX 3/2mm BS CZ Wetsuit From Guls’ best-selling range of suits comes the ladies Response FX with all the features of a high-end suit at an entry-level price. Made using X-Flex 150% super stretch neoprene, X-Flex Thermal core for ultimate insulation and warmth and Revo fit 3D technology for a contoured fit. £135
3. Viper 3/2 BS CZ Wetsuit Guls' top end wetsuit! A suit to take seriously, loaded with all the features you would expect from something a lot more expensive. If you want a quick dry lining with ultra-stretch neoprene, taped internal seams, then you have found your perfect wetsuit. New features include Revo fit 3D pattern technology for our best fit yet! RS-Flex Neoprene 20% lighter and 30% less water absorption. £220 +44 (0) 1208 262 400 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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glidesoul.com
1. Vibrant Stripes Collection 5mm Chest Zip High quality S-FOAM neoprene: Softer, more stretcher than L-Foam and easier to put on and take off / Glue Blind Stitched & 100% taped (GBS & TAPED). The tape reinforced seams add durability and prevent any water through /Fully taped on all interior seams / Thermal flex. Special thermal jersey helps to keep your body warm. This thermo lining is partially used inside the full suit / Silicone lines are used in the inner wrists and ankles areas. They prevent sliding / The chest zip option allows you to get in and out easier. It also protects from flushing water through the zip / Collar designed with the inner glide skin and the outer stretch neoprene for comfort and minimum flushing / SUPRATEX technology: special knee reinforcement panels. £245
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2. Vibrant Stripes Collection 3mm Chest Zip High quality S-FOAM neoprene: Softer, more stretcher than L-Foam and easier to put on and take off / Glue Blind Stitched. It is called “Blind” because needle never penetrates the neoprene completely. As a result there are no wholes. The ‘GBS’ seam glues two pieces of neoprene together and then stitches over the top. This technology helps to keep your body comfortable and warm in the cold water / Silicone lines are used in the inner wrists and ankles areas. They prevent sliding / Fully taped on all interior seams / The chest zip option allows you to get in and out easier. It also protects from flushing water through the zip / SUPRATEX technology: special knee reinforcement panels. £205
3. Vibrant Stripes Collection 2mm Spring Suit Neoprene: S-foam: Lighter by about 20% than L foam. Soft, more stretcher than L foam, easy to put-on and take-off / Glue Blind Stitched. It is called “Blind” because needle never penetrates the neoprene completely. As a result there are no wholes. The ‘GBS’ seam glues two pieces of neoprene together and then stitches over the top. This technology helps to keep your body comfortable and warm in the cold water / Silicone lines are used in the inner wrists. They prevent sliding. £120 91
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animal.co.uk
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1. Men’s Phoenix Front Zip 3/2mm Animal’s top of the range wetsuit sports a subtle asphalt grey colourway for SS17. Constructed from 100% super stretch A-Flex Pro neoprene for maximum flexibility, the Phoenix utilises Contour Control Seams for our best fit to date. Power Paddle Zones—an ergonomic panelling design—enhance paddle performance, with AK Knee Pads, glued and blindstitched seams and front-zip entry for unrestricted movement. £140
2. M en’s Lava Front Zip 3/2mm The Lava model is Animal’s mid-range suit, available in Aster Blue or Bright Green colourways. Designed to provide high performance at a competitive price point, it’s constructed from both A-Flex and A-Flex Pro neoprene in key stretch areas, with front-zip entry for unrestricted movement. Performance enhancing features include: Contour Control Seams, Power Paddle Zones, glued and blindstitched seams and AK Knee Pads. £110
3. Women’s Lava Back Zip 3/2mm The Lava is Animal’s top of the range women’s wetsuit, matching performance with clean styling and a fresh Peppermint Blue colourway for SS17. Constructed from both A-Flex and A-Flex Pro neoprene in key stretch areas, the suit features back-zip entry and Contour Control Seams for optimum fit. Additional highlights include: Power Paddle Zones, glued and blindstitched seams and AK Knee Pads. £100 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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ls needessentia needessentials.uk
1. n eedessentials 4/3 Steamer
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By forgoing all non-essentials such as logo’s, swing tags, high profile sponsorship deals and excessive marketing campaigns, we can put 100% focus into our products, offering premium materials and construction at a very competitive price. All needessentials wetsuits use a lime stone based 4-way mega stretch V-Foam neoprene for ultimate fit and stretch. The 4/3 model also features a Premium Fleece on the inner jersey of the single lined back panel, offering maximum warmth and protection from the elements with minimal fuss. All seams are Glue and Blind stitched plus fully neoprene taped. £159
2. n eedessentials 3/2 Steamer Made with the same premium 4-way mega stretch neoprene as the 4/3 model and with fully neo-taped GBS seams, the needessentials 3/2 offers “only what you need” and has been tested in water temperatures from 14*C. needessentials exclusively works with a leading wetsuit manufacturer to produce our current wetsuit collection and it is our more direct route to market and simplified vision of what a wetsuit is, that means we can pass those savings on. £135
3. n eedessentials 2.5mm Short Arm Based on the Premium 3/2 Chest zip Steamer, the Short Arm model is ideal for those high summer sessions or Euro trips in Spring/Autumn. The 4-way mega stretch V-Foam neoprene made from a lime stone base is combined with a GBS and neo-taped seam to offer a spring suit that takes the chill off every session and lets you focus on your surfing. The shortened arms are finished with a glide skin cuff for an improved fit and feel. Price is not always a measure of quality. £125
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tikisurf.co.uk
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1. Mens Zepha 2 3/2mm GBS The Zepha range is our premium range of wetsuits. Tested in the harshest Atlantic winter swells by our team of XXL nominated big wave surfers: Barry Mottershead and Andrew Cotton. From Nazare to Mullaghmore this wetsuit has been proven in some of the heaviest, coldest waves in the world. Features all the industry standard bells and whistles, and more: PAH free, Limestone based SuperExtend neoprene with Drylined core/3 x Sealed Seams – Liquid Seal exterior, GBS and taped interior/Superflex3 fit/Donut cuffs/Chest zip design/Duratex knees/Available in 4/3 and 3/2. £235
2. M en's Tech 3/2mm GBS Chest Zip This is essentially our proven Zepha design in a budget conscious specification. The key ingredients are the same: same incredible pattern, chest zip design, GBS seams and PAH free limestone based SuperExtend neoprene where it counts. In the body of the suit we have removed the liquid seal, interior taping and replaced the SuperExtend with Superlite neoprene. This makes an incredibly good value wetsuit for the surfer looking for performance without the premium price tag. Available in 4/3 and 3/2. £145
3. Men's Tech 3/2mm GBS Back Zip The TECH steamer is without doubt the best value wetsuit in the Tiki range. Featuring PAH Free, limestone based Super XTEND neoprene where you need it for stretch and paddling. The Duramesh Chest and Superlite seat and body, are light and comfy but way more long lasting than the stretch linings. So as well as a lower price, you get better longevity in the TECH. Available in 4/3 GBS Back Zip and Summer 3/2 F/L. £85.95 +44 (0) 1271 815 757 WAVELENGT HMAG.CO M
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quiksilver.co.uk
1. H ighline Zipperless 3/2mm Bold tie-dye-inspired F’N lite neoprene and a zipperless design bring you a seriously lightweight wetsuit for standout style and standout performance. Featuring top-tech, the Highline Zipperless 4/3mm is designed for maximum flexibility so you can push your limits without your suit holding you back. High performance F’N lite neoprene offers lightweight warmth, while Warmflight thermal lining transforms body heat into infrared energy for increased warmth and better performance and no matter how heavy it gets or how hard you charge, Red Seal GBS seams with ultra-light and flexible seam sealant will give you watertight reinforcement. The Highline Zipperless 4/3mm is all about lightweight flexibility bulk-free freedom to move. £205
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2. H ighline Zipperless 4/3mm The Highline Zipperless 4/3mm offers the highest lightweight performance combined with maximum flexibility. This zipperless wetsuit features F’N lite neoprene for warmth and stretch and Warmflight technology for the lightest, fastest drying thermal lining yet while Dry Flight Far Infrared Heat Technology adds mineralenriched fibres to the lining to insulate and retain body heat better than ever before. Red Seal seam technology keeps GBS seams watertight without adding weight or sacrificing flexibility. The zipperless construction sheds the bulk to bring you our lightest, most flexible, performance-driven wetsuit. £210
3. Highline Performance 3/2mm
ind technology at its best in the Highline Performance 3/2mm. F Suitable for suggested water temperatures of around 15°C/59°F and over, this chest zip full wetsuit comes equipped with F’N lite neoprene and quick-drying Warmflight thermal Far Infrared technology in the lining, a clever technology that traps body heat for excellent insulation and warmer sessions. Super thin and ultralight liquid tape combines in Hydrolock and Red Seal seam treatment for watertight protection. £230 95
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SELF-TAUGHT BY SIMPLE CURIOSITY, WOODY GOOCH IS BECOMING WIDELY KNOWN FOR FRAMING HIS FOCAL SUBJECT WITH THE NATURAL WORLD AROUND IT—ADDING A VISUAL DEPTH YOU WON’ T FIND IN RUN-OF-THE-MILL PHOTOGRAPHY TODAY. MORE ARTIST THAN TECHNICIAN, HE CAPTURES LIFE IN WAYS FEW SEEM TO, UNIQUELY UTILISING MOVEMENT AND NEGATIVE SPACE TO COMMUNICATE THE EMOTIONS OF ANY GIVEN MOMENT.
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WO TH OEDY T WI GOLO I GH C HT POOFR S TL FAT O LEI O R
The tropics or Scandinavia, rubber suits or four-way stretch recycled seamless boardshorts. Whether you’re packing the retro 9’6” or a carbon laced space-age epoxy quad, we’ve got a summer-time travel tip off for all of y'all.
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HOSSEGOR
FRANCE
LOCATION:
ECW Surf & Skate Guesthouse elementcalledwater.com info@elementcalledwater.com +33 (0) 634 576 982
ABOUT:
Situated just north of Hossegor in Soustons where the surf spots are significantly less crowded. You can choose from a bungalow, shared or double rooms or your own campervan or tent. We have a beautiful garden, a little swimming pool, an outdoor kitchen, BBQ area, mini ramps, a DIY skate bowl and most of all an awesome time.
INDONESIA
LOCATION:
Salti Hearts
BALI
saltihearts.com info@saltihearts.com +62 (0) 821 4424 3622 ABOUT:
Salti Hearts is a surf, yoga and fitness camp for women of all ages and abilities. At our camp women are inspired, passions awakened, skills learnt and improved while friendships are made and the pure bliss of Salti Life is embraced. We share our passion, love, journey, mats and waves. Join our Tribe!
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T R AVE L GUI DE
HODDEVIK
NORWAY
LOCATION:
Ticket To Ride tickettoridegroup.com hello@tickettoridegroup.com +44 (0) 208 788 8668
ABOUT:
Based in the remote village of Hoddevik, our Norwegian surfing expedition represents surf escapism at its very finest. Prepare to find yourself chasing empty waves and deserted beaches through some of the planet’s most visually stunning scenery, all while surrounded by Scandinavian nature in its rawest form.
PORTUGAL
LOCATION:
The Surf Experience
LAGOS
surf-experience.com info@surf-experience.com +351 (0) 282 086 012 ABOUT:
The Surf Experience was established in 1992 and we have been setting the standard of surf holidays since before the tarmac roads. We offer the ultimate surf break with options of surf school, surf safaris, prolevel bootcamps, longboard and yoga weeks. Plus amazing accommodation, delicious and nutritious catering, top nightlife and music events.
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Solid Surf House solidsurfhouse.com
BALI
INDONESIA
LOCATION:
bali@solidsurfhouse.com +62 (0) 822 3759 4817 ABOUT:
Our Surf and Yoga House is centrally located in the heart of Canggu, best known for its world-class surf breaks. Close to Berawa beach and just a short stroll away from the surf spots Batu Bolong, Oldmans and Echo beach, our surfcamp is an ideal place for surfers of all levels of experience.
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TAGHAZOUT
MOROCCO
LOCATION:
Mint Surf Morocco mintsurfmorocco.co.uk contact@mintsurfmorocco.co.uk +212 (0) 648 533 504
ABOUT:
Have breakfast and check the surf from the best view in Taghazout (see photo). But still great prices and amazing value! Mint Surf caters to all levels (and groups/ couples with mixed levels) and all budgets with a range of surf camp packages, taking you to the best breaks of the day. Stay in Mint Surf’s beautiful oceanfront apartments for more space and privacy. Certificate of Excellence on TripAdvisor. Yoga, too!
BASQUE COUNTRY
FRANCE/SPAIN
LOCATION:
Bordeaux To Bilbao Cycle Surfari tickettoridegroup.com hello@tickettoridegroup.com +44 (0) 208 788 8668 ABOUT:
A tailor made cycling adventure through the Basque country surfing at the best spots along the way. This surf and cycle tour starts in the thick of the pine trees in south west France, picking up the spiritual path of the Camino De Santiago, taking you to untouched corners of your own pedalling paradise. The route is challenging, but achievable by anyone with a good level of general fitness. The waves can be the best in Europe. The perfect holiday for the true adventure enthusiast.
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Solid Surf House
TAGHAZOUT
MOROCCO
LOCATION:
solidsurfhouse.com morocco@solidsurfhouse.com +212 (0) 528 314 694 ABOUT:
Our recently renovated Surf & Yoga House is centrally located in the area of Taghazout Bay, Tamraght. The surfcamp offers high-standard accommodation at affordable rates. Famous Moroccan surf breaks are situated just a stroll away from our surf house. It’s an ideal place for surfers of all levels of experience.
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Surf Instructor Course solidsurfhouse.com
BALI
INDONESIA
LOCATION:
holiday@solidsurfhouse.com +62 (0) 822 3736 1420 ABOUT:
You had enough of your 9 to 5 job? Change your life and become a surf teacher. At Solid surf house we offer a 8 or 12 week Surf Instructor Course in Canggu, a real cool, chilled out, ‘surfy’ village on the west coast of Bali. At the end of the course you will be a ISA certified teacher.
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BALI
INDONESIA
LOCATION:
Kima Surf Villa Seminyak kimasurf.com info@kimasurf.com +44 (0) 208 144 3140
ABOUT:
Enjoy our surf villa & apartments right in the center of Seminyak with your own private surf guide as well as a private driver, who shows you the island at your own pace. The entire villa is geared towards luxury and relaxation with your
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own pool and tropical garden that combines modern lifestyle with your individual surf holiday. Breakfast is included and will be prepared freshly every day. Surf photography & theory lessons are included too.
INDONESIA
LOCATION:
Kima Surf Camp Seminyak
BALI
kimasurf.com info@kimasurf.com +44 (0) 208 144 3140 ABOUT:
For your comfort before and after surfing, we paid particular attention to the genuine Bali feeling when designing the accommodation in Seminyak. Stylish double and four-bed rooms, each with their own bathroom and mini terrace, are located at the natural stone pool surrounded by a tropical garden. All rooms meet western criteria and feature hot water, ventilation or A/C. Also available are glamping teepee tents.
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Kima Surf Camp Canggu
BALI
INDONESIA
LOCATION:
kimasurf.com info@kimasurf.com +44 (0) 20 8144 3140
ABOUT:
CALIFORNIA
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Our surf hotel is located right next to the beach with its famous reef and beach breaks from Echo Beach to Old Mans. These are suitable for beginners, intermediates and advanced surfers. Included in the price is the variety of up to 16 different surf spots per day. Our experienced surf guides take you to the best breaks around the island. Surf theory and surf photography will help you to improve your surfing even more. Relax at the pool, enjoy some smoothies in our CafĂŠ and choose from a variety of different, stylish accommodations like private villas or shared rooms. The hip area of Canggu offers a lot to explore beside the surfing. Join us for an unforgettable holiday trip to paradise.
LOCATION:
SANTA CRUZ
Making The Drop Northern California makingthedrop.com barry@makingthedrop.com +1 (831) 297-3029 ABOUT:
From longboard friendly point breaks to hollow beach breaks, Santa Cruz offers some of the most consistent and quality waves year-round. Living and surfing here since 1985, Making the Drop founder and coach Barry Green is passionate about personalised and professional coaching to help surfers achieve higher levels of performance in the water and on land. Whether looking for a guided introduction to the area, private coaching sessions with video analysis or an all-inclusive custom surf retreat, Barry can help dial you in.
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Combing the best of surfing and cycling, this eight day, two wheeled adventure through the Basque country will see you alternating between surf and turf as you explore the stunning scenery and world class breaks of this unique region.
T I C K E T T O R I D E G R O U P. C O M
Smooth, groomed and ready for a good time.
WAVE TRIMMER
FULLY CHARGED Close to the bone, meticulously presented and always prepared to go below the belt. Over 120 pages of carefully trimmed perfection that's always on hand, no matter what hair-raising situation you find yourself in.
FALL IN LOVE WITH PRINT AGAIN USE CODE:
B U ZZ I NG FOR 20% OFF YOUR SUBSCRIPTION. SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT:
WAV E L E N G T H M AG .C O M
Photo: Lewis Harrison-Pinder
W R A P
U P
Just like that, it’s Spring again. Time to get all British and talk about the weather. We can't ignore it, our one of a kind, changeable climate and the discussion thereof is engrained in our multi-sourced DNA. By the time the next issue hits the shelves, our faithful printer will no doubt be stocking up on blue ink, ready to present you lucky readers with a surf magazine full of mouth-wateringly delicious peelers and passport twitching radness. Tally ho.
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WR AP UP
For The Discerning Surfer S H O P.WAV E L E N G T H M AG .C O M