VOL. 32, NO. 6
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008
$5.00
T TH HE E
B BU US S II N NE ES SS S
O OF F
F FA AS SH H II O ON N
Mode
cITY In ParIs Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales agreement # 40023636
summer ’09 intimate apparel
trends from wGsn
u.s. product saFety LeGisLation cPsia a guide for the Perplexed
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canadianapparel magazine 504-124 O’Connor St. Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5M9 Tel: (613) 231-3220 Fax: (613)231-2305 www.apparel.ca
Publisher Bob Kirke Tel: (613) 231-3220 ext. 224 Fax: (613) 231-2305 email: bkirke@apparel.ca
Managing Editor Marsha Ross 801-555 Chabanel St. West Montreal, Quebec H2N 2H8, Canada Tel: (514) 382-4243 / (888) 382-4243 Fax: (514) 382-4612 email: editor@apparel.ca
General Inquiries Circulation/ Subscriptions Michèle Bédard Tel: (613) 231-3220 ext. 300 Fax: (613)231-2305 email: magazine@apparel.ca
Advertising Inquiries Patrick Thomas Tel: (514) 383-0916 email: sales@apparel.ca
Published by the Canadian Apparel Federation
6 cover contents
Rebecca
November-December 2008 Volume 32, No. 6
Elliot Lifson, President
Subscription information ISSN-1484-3684. Published six times annually. Free subscription to members of the Canadian Apparel Federation (CAF). Subscription rates for nonmembers: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland $28.75 per year. All other Canadian addresses - $26.75. Canadian prices include GST/ HST. U.S. Subscribers $35.00. International subscribers $45.00 payable to the Canadian Apparel Federation by money order, bank draft, Visa or MasterCard. Allow 8 weeks for start of delivery. Single copies - $5.00 plus GST/HST. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part, by any means (including electronic, mechanical or photographic) without the prior written consent of the publisher. Mailed at C.P.A. St-Laurent, Quebec. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement No. 40023636. G.S.T. #135623478. Send address changes to: Canadian Apparel Federation, 504-124 O’Connor St., Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5M9 or magazine@apparel.ca.
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5 Industry news 6 Intimate apparel
Intimate fashion no longer follows the seasons, making “macro trends” like color, diversification, and natural fabrics the ones to watch
Product standards
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How U.S. product safety legislation is going to impact on all consumer products sold in the United States
CPSIA – A guide for the Perplexed
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12 Textiles
Interfilière : Winter 2009/2010
14 Trade
10+2 = Opportunity
16 Trends
Fabric directives are concise and to the point next season, with traditional tartans at the forefront of the fashion pack
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Publisher’s note A Crisis is a Terrible Thing to Waste W
e have become so accustomed to upheaval in the apparel industry that it is with mixed emotions that one can look around the world today to discover that everyone else is catching up to us! While we are already adapting to a world where production has gone global, many view the same restructuring in manufacturing and in particular in the automotive industry as a crisis beyond human imagination. While this may be true, the fact remains that all industries are being challenged to deliver value to their customers in a time of tremendous uncertainty. It is also the case that the apparel industry may be able to adjust to the new realities better than some other industries. With the elimination of import quotas in 2005 and the ballooning value of the Canadian dollar, Canadian apparel firms had to rise above tough challenges to survive. The “crisis” in our industry is now so old that it is hard to call it a crisis anymore. With the current economic uncertainty, it is easy to overlook the opportunities that present themselves. As Rahm Emanuel the Chief of Staff to President-elect Barack Obama said recently, “A crisis is a terrible thing to waste” and it truly is. Companies, industries and governments need to take advantage of these opportunities and make real changes to move forward. So what opportunities are out there?
What good is having something valuable if it’s not used properly? Existing Systems Evaluation Existing Systems Improvement Needs Analysis New System Search / Selection Implementation Project Management Best Practices Consulting Change Management Logistics / Operations Consulting E-Commerce / EDI Support Data Mining / Reporting Add-on Tools
We know that governments are searching for new ways to help industries not only survive the short-term but prosper in the longer-term. The current situation is an opportunity for us to make the case for the new tools we need. Already, during the past year, we have seen an increasing pace of promising developments on the trade and industrial policy fronts. Just one example is that this year Canada implemented an outward processing program for apparel and textiles – something that had been under discussion for decades and will allow some apparel importers to incorporate a greater amount of Canadian textiles into their products. Canada also renewed apparel duty remission programs earlier this year. Is this the year that the Canadian government seriously considers the recommendations of industry for a tax credit program focused on design and product development? For the past 15 years, we have looked to the federal government to match tax credits currently in place in Quebec that recognize the unique role design plays in this industry. Is this the year that we receive tariff relief on imported textiles in a timely fashion? In the U.S. a formal process to determine the availability of fabrics from domestic suppliers takes a matter of months – not years as is frequently the case in Canada. 2009 could very well be the year for these initiatives if the government takes into account the particular needs of this industry, as it is doing for the automotive industry. Our magazine will also be undergoing change. With this issue we bid farewell to Marsha Ross, our editor of nearly eight years and wish her well in her future activities. Look forward to announcements in the near future about appointments and new initiatives to increase the relevance of Canadian Apparel magazine.
Contact: Elliot Schiller 1.888.816.0222 ext. 102 eschiller@teegerschiller.com www.teegerschiller.com
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Bob Kirke, Publisher e-mail: bkirke@apparel.ca
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industry news
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industry news Mountain Equipment Co-op discloses contract factories Mountain Equipment Co-op, Canada’s largest retail co-operative with over 2.9 million members, became the first Canadian company to disclose the names of factories that make clothing and gear under its MEC-brand label. In disclosing its factory base, Mountain Equipment Co-op is on common ground with leading companies outside of Canada that have already disclosed. Nike, Inc. was the first U.S. company to disclose it factory base, in 2006. Since then, Patagonia and Timberland have followed. The disclosure is available online on MEC’s English and French websites, where the factory list can be viewed in an electronic format. More information and the list itself are available at www. mec.ca/factories. Factory disclosure and ethical sourcing are examples of how MEC integrates sustainability initiatives and programs into its cooperative business operations. Others include grants for community-based wilderness conservation and outdoor recreation, a green building program and sustainable product development. Established in 1971, MEC operates 11 destination stores in central locations across Canada as well as mail and web-order services Info: www.mec.ca
Sears transforms the online shopping experience Sears, IBM and My Virtual Model have unveiled a first-of-its-kind 3D visual search and e-commerce capability for Sears.com that will improve and enhance a consumer’s online shopping experience. Sears is the first retailer to apply both a visual search and virtual model to an entire catalogue online. The updated Sears site, powered by IBM WebSphere Commerce and My Virtual Model, will allow consumers to search for merchandise using images versus words, and to virtually “try on” selected items using a personalized model of themselves to ensure that the style, color, pattern and fit are right before purchasing. The Sears site will enable shoppers to search on a specific style – such as long-sleeve tunic shirts or cropped cargo pants – and find products from the company’s catalogue of clothing, shoes and accessories using 3D images versus words. Shoppers can create countless combinations using a virtual model they can build and personalize to match their measurements – height, weight, body shape – and a headshot photo to ensure that the style, color, pattern and fit are right. The 3D angle allows users to view garments on themselves from the front, side and back, and shoppers can also email images of their looks to friends and family to help them make final purchasing decisions. This Sears deployment represents the first collaboration between IBM’s WebSphere Commerce and MVM, a Montreal-based company providing virtual identity since 2000, with virtual change rooms and personalized virtual models that can be shared online. Sears.com plans to go live with Visual Search in late October. Info: www.mvm.com continued on page 17
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ca I n t I m at E a P Pa r E L
Mode City in Paris — Summer ‘09 Intimate fashion no longer follows the seasons, making “macro trends” like color, diversification, and natural fabrics the ones to watch
By Marsha Ross
Crool
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i n t i M at e a P Pa r e L
Trends Just Glamor • Black with jewel effects and touches of animal skin and leather. • Foil prints, paillettes. • Lace and power nets that are lighter than ever. • Classic, functional forms become sexy. (Empreinte, Rosy) • Strong garment shaping. • Beachwear inspired by streetwear, e.g. parka shapes. • Combinations of materials. • Mix of casual and glamorous. • Metallics and shine.
Just Nature
Lisa Ho
Mamma Maria
Macro trends • Trends don’t focus on seasons anymore. It’s your personal rhythm that counts. • Color is the motor behind merchandising as items become increasingly dissociated e.g. lace bra with cotton panty. All white, for the whole family is a trend to watch. • Luxury market is younger, which gives rise to items like a lace bra in fluorescent pink with red straps. (Carol Maloney, U.S.) • Fully-fashioned knitwear, in very fine gauge, in loungewear. • Natural fibres in fashion colors with a minimalist feeling. (Araks, U.S.) • Cute and sexy is a hot direction at every market level. (Primark, U.K.) • Shapewear moves away from function to become a fashion accessory.
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Swimsuit dressing The boundary between ready-to-wear and swimwear is gossamer thin as women increasingly view the swimsuit as part of their wardrobe. That makes accessories like the sarong, tunic, chapeau, and special beach jewelry more important than ever.
One-piece A ‘50s retro look was clear in the collections with structured one-piece swimsuits that offered shaping and support. Colors run deep with sun yellow, ultramarine blue, purple, coral and earth brown. An ethnic influence is obvious, yet remains subtle due to its mainly monochrome tones. Black is basic, as always, enlivened with stones and jewels, sequins and shine.
• Materials that are delicate, pure, simple, highly technical and naturally luxurious. • Green trend to light, supple, soft natural fibres. • Novelty findings. • New volumes and details e.g. the bloomer. • Swimsuits that incorporate shapewear. • White/ecru, toast, gray marl with lace. (Venus & Jules) • Turquoise, watery prints, geometrics with a watery feel. • Finishing details that reach a new art form. (Gilly Hicks.) • Sleep panty and top instead of pajamas.
• ‘60s pop prints and high-waist briefs • Colors are intense and new combinations catch the eye e.g. purple with orange or khaki. • Prints are bold and daring, featuring giant flowers and wild animals. • Prints are mixed and matched for an explosion of intense color: yellows and purples, underlined with black, geometric patterns, mangastyle designs, block stripes and irregular stripes. • The top is a bandeau or triangle. • Board shorts are a big trend
Just Gorgeous
Ornamentation
• Japanese-style sweetness. • Surprising images and details. • Lace has to be young, e.g. hi definition, soft hand, gorgeous color. • Antiquey lace blouses over swimwear. • Frills and pleats. • Cotton/Lycra, shirting cotton, handkerchief cotton tops over leggings. • St. Tropez style – little ginghams, rickrack (Daniel Hechter).
• Appliquéed or flat crystals and crystal drops • Metal bra closures, bikini connectors, medallions • Studded leather • Diamente trim • Metal chain accents
Two-piece
Just Art • Borrowed from contemporary artists, surf and board wear, various cultures and the world of handmade. • Surf and street art are hot trends for colors and prints. • Customizing and personalizing, especially in beachwear. • Stripes and geometrics. • Eccentricity in prints, proportions and decoration. • Generous volume and detailing. • Accessories are key element. • Precious stones, hammered metal. Venus Jules
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Product s ta n d a r d s
The loss of the covered wagon How U.S. product safety legislation is going to impact on all consumer products sold in the United States Gerald B. Horn and Lauren V. Perez
D
o you remember hearing stories when you were young about peddlers who used to travel from neighborhood to neighborhood selling all types of consumer goods out of wagons and carriages? These wares were gathered from suppliers far and wide and everyone was appreciative of the product variety and fair prices. Products weren’t tested prior to purchase. The peddler’s sources remained confidential. What has changed so much in our world that, today, government regulations threaten our very competitive marketplace, jeopardizing the future of free trade through burdensome regulations and onerous record-keeping requirements? The answer is simple. Global traders have lost the trust of consumers. Consumers are no longer satisfied to assume the security and safety of consumer goods. Tainted products and contaminated imports threatening harm to our children have compromised the very tenets of free and unfettered trade many of us have worked so hard for many years to accomplish. The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) is the latest piece of U.S. legislation guaranteeing increased obstacles for legitimate global businesses. The CPSIA amends the Consumer Product Safety Act (CPSA) to ensure that every consumer product entering U.S. commerce conforms with all applicable, existing CPSC-administered standards, rules, regulations or bans. Every manufacturer, importer and private labeler must issue a certification of product conformity, based upon product testing, with each such certification “accompanying” the goods or the shipment of the product for all goods made on or after November 12, 2008. The certification requires information sufficient to identify the date and place of manufacture, the manufacturer, importer and private labeler, the date and place of product testing and the person responsible for maintaining the applicable testing results.
Global traders have lost the trust of consumers. Consumers are no longer satisfied to assume the security and safety of consumer goods.
No longer will consumers have to be concerned about the safety of their consumer goods. But are they willing in exchange to sacrifice confidentiality of proprietary business information, the disclosure of which may jeopardize product availability and price competition within the commercial marketplace, as a means of mitigating the risk that unsafe consumer goods will be distributed in U.S. commerce? As the CPSC, advisors, consultants, laboratories and governments provide advice to product manufacturers, importers and private labelers to facilitate timely compliance with the CPSIA certification and other requirements, international traders are concerned about the ambiguities in the Act and the lack of sufficient notice of the required general conformity certification requirements for all consumers products, not only those designed for the use of children 12 and under. What is a “reasonable testing program”? Why is certification required of both the manufacturer and importer? What standard is applicable to my product? Do I have to test components or finished goods? How do I ensure that the required certifications “accompany” the goods and are “furnished” as required to downstream retailers and distributors? Why would the U.S. government insist on implementing regulations in connection with which the Agency is still accepting comments for evolving rulemaking? How could the CPSC refuse entry of a product or otherwise seize a good for violation of the CPSIA without firm industry guidance and input? The answer to all of these questions is relatively simple and goes back to our peddler story. The world has changed since the days of covered wagons dispensing consumer goods to unsuspecting consumers in adjoining neighborhoods. Published reports in the summer of 2007 (see http://www. newsinferno.com/archives/1775) confirm that, in the last two decades, the CPSC staff had dwindled from 900 to 400, and its budget dwindled to only $62 million annually. Only 15 CPSC inspectors monitored imports at U.S. ports as of last year, where millions of toys and other consumer products enter the country. Each year about 28,000 deaths and over 33 million injuries are associated with consumer products with a cost to the American public exceeding US$800 billion per year. The CPSC had no choice but to strengthen its enforcement mechanisms in an expedited manner sufficient to quickly reassure American consumers that the products being distributed in commerce were safe. Because of the numerous product recalls of consumer goods during the past few years, American consumers no longer
So what is it I actually have to do? 1. Beginning November 12, manufacturers and importers must certify in writing that products being imported into the U.S. conform with any applicable rules, bans, regulations or standards administered by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). 2. These certificates of conformity must be based on a “reasonable” testing program, must accompany the product or the shipment of the product and must be furnished to each distributor or retailer of the product. 3. If no certificate is issued, or if a false certificate is found to be on hand, the shipment may be refused admission and destroyed. 4. The deadline refers to product manufactured on or after November 12. 5. All consumer products (including apparel) are covered. 6. In effect, these regulations require manufacturers and importers to certify that their products are safe by providing written assurance that all CPSC standards are followed.
trust their product peddlers to sell them products that are safe for their use and their children’s use. Garment manufacturers, as a result, have been drawn into the new certification and other requirements of the CPSIA in a manner likely to substantively impact and alter existing business operations. Testing protocols must be established throughout the supply chain, procedures for timely issuance of required certifications must be implemented and even relationships with licensees and third party product importers may need to be re-evaluated as importers now bear responsibility for certifying product conformity. Apparel with decals or screen prints must conform to lead paint standards and total lead content limitations if intended for use by children 12 years of younger. Apparel of all types is subject to flammability standards and other standards such as those governing small parts, phthalates and banned hazardous substances. continued on page 15
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What are your strategies for? n
Keeping on top of the latest consumer product safety requirements
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Complying with legislative requirements under the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Act (CPSIA)
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Meeting worldwide regulatory and industry standards
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Identifying when third party testing is needed and who is accredited Every company is coping with the changing and often confusing regulatory environment and how new standards or legislation will impact their business. Bureau Veritas can identify current applicable regulations and partner with you for all your compliance and testing requirements.
Contact: Steven.Solarik@ca.bureauveritas.com www.bureauveritas.com/cps 905-771-5722
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P r o d u c t s ta n d a r d s
CPSIA – A guide for the Perplexed A
pparel manufacturers have been justifiably concerned about the lack of clarity surrounding new product standards legislation in the U.S. Here are some easily accessed sources of information.
Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act The Consumer Product Safety Commission has posted guidance on many topics. Please note that this is based on staff interpretations and “do(es) not replace or supersede the statutory requirements of the new legislation”. This guidance may also be subject to change based on Commission action. General info is available at: http://www.cpsc.gov/ about/cpsia/cpsia.html
FAQs The Consumer Product Safety Commission has created a “FAQ” section on its web site: www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/faq/faq.html • Certificate of compliance - Required information • Identification of the product covered by this certificate: • Citation to each CPSC product safety regulation to which this product is being certified: • Identification of the U.S. importer or domestic [U.S.] manufacturer certifying compliance of the product: • Contact information for the individual maintaining records of test results: • Date and place where this product was manufactured: • Date and place where this product was tested for compliance with the regulation(s) cited above: • Identification of any third-party laboratory on whose testing the certificate depends: Source: www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/faq/ elecertfaq.pdf
Must each shipment be “accompanied” by a certificate? Yes, the law requires that each import (and domestic manufacturer) shipment be “accompanied” by the required certificate. The requirement applies to imports and products manufactured domestically. Under the rule issued by the Commission an electronic certificate is “accompanying” a shipment if the certificate is identified by a unique identifier and can be accessed via a World Wide Web URL or other electronic means, provided the URL or other electronic means and the unique identifier are created in advance and available with the shipment. Certificates can also be transmitted electronically to a broker with other customs entry documents before a shipment arrives so long as they are available to the Commission or Customs and Border Protection staff if the product or shipment is inspected. Source: www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/faq/ elecertfaq.pdf
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Flammability The most important consideration for apparel exporters is flammability. What is the flammability standard that apparel must meet, and which fabrics and/or garments are exempt? The following exerpts from Code of Federal Regulations Part 1610 Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles address this: (a) Purpose. The purpose of this standard is to reduce danger of injury and loss of life by providing, on a national basis, standard methods of testing and rating the flammability of textiles and textile products for clothing use, thereby prohibiting the use of any dangerously flammable clothing textiles. (b) Scope. The Standard provides methods of testing the flammability of clothing and textiles intended to be used for clothing, establishes three classes of flammability, sets forth the requirements which textiles shall meet to be classified, and warns against the use of those textiles which have burning characteristics unsuitable for clothing. Hereafter, “clothing and textiles intended to be used for clothing” shall be referred to as “textiles.” (c) Specific exceptions. This standard shall not apply to: (1) Hats, provided they do not constitute or form part of a covering for the neck, face, or shoulders when worn by individuals; (2) Gloves, provided they are not more than 14 inches in length and are not affixed to or do not form an integral part of another garment; (3) Footwear, provided it does not consist of hosiery in whole or part and is not affixed to or does not form an integral part of another garment; (4) Interlining fabrics, when intended or sold for use as a layer between an outer shell and an inner lining in wearing apparel. (d) Specific exemptions. Experience gained from years of testing in accordance with the Standard demonstrates that certain fabrics consistently yield acceptable results when tested in accordance with the Standard. Therefore, persons and firms issuing an initial guaranty of any of the following types of fabrics, or of products made entirely from one or more of these fabrics, are exempt from any requirement for testing to support guaranties of those fabrics: (1) Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content, weighing 2.6 ounces per square yard or more; and (2) All fabrics, both plain surface and raised-fiber surface textiles, regardless of weight, made entirely from any of the following fibers or entirely from combination of the following fibers: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, wool. (e) Applicability. The requirements of this part 1610 shall apply to textile fabric or related material in a form or state ready for use in an article of wearing apparel, including garments and costumes finished for consumer use.
What is “reasonable”? U.S. Code of Federal Regulations Title 16: Commercial Practices, PART 1610— Standard for
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the Flammability of Clothing Textiles - Subpart B—Rules and Regulations spells out what a reasonable and representative testing program would be: § 1610.37 Reasonable and representative tests to support guaranties. (2) Section 8 of the Act provides for two types of guaranties: (i) An initial guaranty based on “reasonable and representative tests” made in accordance with the applicable standard issued under the Act; and (ii) A guaranty based on a previous guaranty, received in good faith, to the effect that reasonable and representative tests show conformance with the applicable standard. (c) Requirements . (1) Each person or firm issuing an initial guaranty of a product, fabric, or related material subject to the Standard shall devise and implement a program of reasonable and representative tests to support such a guaranty. (2) The term program of reasonable and representative tests as used in this §1610.37 means at least one test with results demonstrating conformance with the Standard for the product, fabric or related material which is the subject of an initial guaranty. The program of reasonable and representative tests required by this §1610.37 may include tests performed before the effective date of this section, and may include tests performed by persons or firms outside of the territories of the United States or other than the one issuing the initial guaranty. The number of tests and the frequency of testing shall be left to the discretion of the person or firm issuing the initial guaranty. (3) In the case of an initial guaranty of a fabric or related material, a program of reasonable and representative tests may consist of one or more tests of the particular fabric or related material which is the subject of the guaranty, or of a fabric or related material of the same “class” of fabrics or related materials as the one which is the subject of the guaranty. For purposes of this §1610.37, the term class means a category of fabrics or related materials having general constructional or finished characteristics, sometimes in association with a particular fiber, and covered by a class or type description generally recognized in the trade. n
Buying? Selling? Hiring? Seeking? Broadcast your classified ad online at http://portal.apparel.ca/eng
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September 30October 2, 2009 Los Angeles Convention Center Los Angeles, CA
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the global fashion production, supply chain and technology events
www.material-world.com PROUDLY END ORSED BY National Council Of Textile Organizations
ca TEXTILES
Interfilière : Winter 2009/2010 Always on the cutting edge, Interfilière showed “intelligent” fabrics that offer bacteriostatic or climatic properties, anti-UV protection or the ability to change color according to the temperature By Marsha Ross
Esprit Dada • Brush strokes, good humored and beautiful prints and motifs, doodles, graffiti. Hyperrealistic prints (people, clothing, animals) • Supple leisure shapes. • Strong influence from urban art and all that is graphic and abstract. • For beachwear, strong evolution of surface decoration. Futuristic elements. • Black with novelty surface effects in plains and graphics. Black and white Op’Art or 3D effects • Neon and fluorescent colors for beachwear and crossover lingerie. • Small flowers, geometrics, checks and stripes a masculine/feminine theme. • The return of plaids and surface decoration (embroideries, transfers, laser cuts)
Baroque
Confidence
Trends
PHOTOS: INTERFILIÈRE LYON
Bio Glamor:
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• New mohairs, cashmeres, satins and cottons. • Seersucker effects, pleating, padding. • Hazy ground effects with black jaspé yarns create washout looks that echo the denim world. • Fine gauges, refined and delicate effects for tomorrow’s basics. Contrasting gauges in ecru and white. • Purple is a key color for Summer 2010. Look for a green evolution as well, with light, acidic, dirty shades. Also on board, organic colors and artisanal effects. Orange spice and brown ochre contrast with gray and beige.
canadianapparel
• Cocooning as a counterpoint to all the lightness and smoothness. Bulky effects, matelassés, volume combined with lightness. Cotton shirtings mixed with jersey leggings or sexy panties. • Refined rustic synthetics, cotton and wool with a very natural look and great refinement in lightness and touch. • Rough finishes like grosgrain combine new techniques with archival classics. Modern naturals — string, cord, ecru and oatmeal — for young and romantic collections in ultramodern mixes of fine jersey and new-generation guipure.
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• Futuristic effects: giant feathers, passementerie, denim/metal, sequins, lacquer. • Generous volumes. • Organic side of Art Nouveau: feather effects, birds, insects. • Dark shades full of life with yarn and fibre effects. Ink shades. • Reds, aubergines, purples for traditional lingerie. • Novelty colors, especially green. • Sexy elements such as animal skins and laces but in very casual colors and with cutting edge technology. • Dramatic black for special occasions and spectacular lingerie. Novelty decorations and effects. • Art Nouveau inspiration for organic and figurative effects. • Superposed and placed guipures. • Softness and light weight in wild effects. • Luxury animal motifs – feathers. Flying or climbing animals. • Dramatic effects: Macramé, velvet, raw edges, precious stones. • Artistic decoration for upmarket couture: modern and classic passementerie, crafted ideas. • Street influences: metal surface effects in casual colors and industrial finishes inject chic glamour.
TE X TI L ES
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Modern Courtesan • Festive but sophisticated. • Luxury: silks, satins, velvets, pleats, furnishing fabrics. • Glamorous or retro shapewear: corsets, raised waists. • Roses in traditional, vintage, Eastern and blotting paper effects. • Plain fabrics as never before: works of art , all lightness, soft handle. Super feminine. • An evolution of mid-tones: mocha, coffee, vanilla, whipped cream and chocolate. • Navy blue and aqua tones. • Froufrou, velvets, pink buds combines with black. • Mix of pleats with white a key element. • Original new effects generated by cutting, transfer and printing technologies. • Refinement and lightness in elastics and finishes for a young and trendy interpretation of vintage corsetry. • Narrow fabrics, especially valenciennes in a wealth of colors. • Roses from outsize to mini. • ‘Vintage’ cotton in a mix of textures and trendy colors.
Chief you
Tessilena
On the Market ANDRE AVIO:, Lenpur®, SeaCell®, organic cotton, or milk protein. Hot melt adhesives in nets, webs or tulle, in wide widths for dry system lamination or for ribbon for elasticizing and edge finishing. BRA CUP: 3D Fiberfill Cups, cups for heat transfers for decoration with colored motifs, threelayer water pads with scent: DARQUER: Wide-width blister lace with different patterns and textures. HUBER TRICOT: Fabrics based on Smartcel™ clima, a PCM fibre (Phase Change Material) microcomposite heat regulator. Smooth Skin, a finishing for cotton, cotton blends, Tencel® and Tencel® blends, prevents pilling and maintains new look after repeated washings. A range of antibacterial fabrics with Trevira® Bioactive, a
permanent integrated agent for cotton/polyester blends or for iSys MTX, a finishing procedure with silver molecule. A bamboo range. Organic fabrics in 100% cotton or with elastane, and in Luxor, very fine Egyptian cotton. LENZING FIBERS: MicroModal® AIR is the finest cellulose textile fibre in the world, used for finer knitted fabrics. Lenzing Modal® fibres come from beechwood and are manufactured using technology that respects the environment. Residues from the manufacturing process are recuperated and reused. LIEBAERT: Spacer fabrics without “spaces” use molding, which offers optimal stability and good opacity for bra cups. Coordinated jacquard prints add a touch of sophistication. Microfibres and two-way stretch materials with a satin finish, ultra-soft handle and delicate floral prints have the allure of silk. New patterns on a fine gauge warp knitting machine with variable bonding zones. A wide variety of prints - iridescent, lacquered or transfers - along with dyed flocking or brilliant metallics. LOUIS VIDON: Run-proof knits and circular 3D fine gauges. Elastic fabrics with integrated technical yarns. Mechanical and chemical finishings for specific properties according to use. The latest evolutions are in the NaturaLink line — a mix of organic cotton and SeaCell®, AirLink — a palette of 3D jacquards, as well as a spacer using bamboo. “Variable geometry” fabrics, which have moldable elasticity and entretoise (thickness between the two sides).
MR-CRÉATION: Stretch pleats which are knitted as pleats and require no additional treatment. Solids or transfer prints. MAGLIFICIO RIPA: Fabrics for “outside underwear,” made on 44-gauge machines, simple or double knits with extremely fine yarns in 100% MicroModal® or 100% cotton. The winter collection includes Modal®/wool blends and a new Modal®/ polyamide/ cashmere composition. The addition of polyamide assures a fuller, more fluid handle, with more movement in the finished fabrics. NOYON: Development of laces based on Be Cool, a polyamide 6 fibre in fan blade shapes that wick perspiration away from the body. RANITEX: Digital printing and laser cutting; printing of placed motifs, creation of diamante in glass and metal… SHOWME KNITTING TRICOTS: Elastic fabrics without PTT Urethane are good for the environment, flexible, durable, fresh, breathable, antiUVA and chlorine resistant with good coverage. TIANHAI LACE: Very fine soft laces thanks to micro polyamide and fine elastane; moldable satin backed fabrics and laces with printed effects; moldable laces based on a “cationic” micro polyester and elastane, which can be dyed at finishing without an anti-yellowing agent. A multitude of colors are possible with good performance at high temperatures. n The next edition of Interfilière will take place at Porte de Versailles January 18-21, 2009.
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10+2 = Opportunity
Randy Rotchin, President & CEO Logical Properties
U
S Customs has added two more ingredients to its alphabet soup of post-9/11 cargo security programs. “ISF” (Importer Security Filing) and “ACR” (Additional Carrier Requirements) are the latest mandatory reporting requirements imposed on commercial shippers. Affectionately known as “10+2”, these additional data elements are part of a broad initiative by US Customs and Border Protection to acquire more precise information about marine cargo earlier in the shipping cycle in order to improve automated security targeting. Within the next 12 months, importers and carriers will be required to submit 10+2 data to Customs 24 hours prior to vessel loading at overseas ports-effectively pushing the U.S. border outward. The “2” of 10+2 refers to information that carriers are required to submit about the containers and conveyances in which cargo is loaded. The information demanded is clear-cut and readily available. The “10” refers to commercial data about the cargo itself. Responsibility for insuring the completeness and accuracy of the ISF rests solely with the importer. While some information such as manufacturer/supplier name and address is usu-
10+2 data elements Importer Security Filing (The TEN) (1) Manufacturer (or supplier) name and address (2) Seller (by owner) name and address (3) Buyer (or owner) name and address (4) Ship-to name and address (5) Container stuffing location (6) Consolidator (stuffer) name and address (7) Importer of record number/foreign trade zone applicant identification number (8) Consignee number(s) (9) Country of origin (10) Commodity Harmonized Tariff Schedule number
Additional Carrier Requirements (the TWO) (1) Vessel Stowage Plan (2) Container Status Messages
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ally known and available at the time of export, 8 of the 10 mandatory commercial data elements (e.g. Harmonized System commodity code) are found on documents traditionally prepared after the container is stuffed. Why, you may ask, should the US 10+2 program matter to Canadian apparel companies? Under 10+2, the term “importer” means “any party causing goods to arrive within the limits of a port in the United States.” This includes importers whose cargo is routed to Canada through a US port. Since about 1 out of 4 containers with a Canadian origin or destination travels through an American port, millions of Canadian shipments will be subject to the law. Furthermore, the Canada Border Services Agency is planning to implement its own version of 10+2 as part of a commitment to harmonize its advance trade data collection and examination programs with US initiatives. What effect will this have on the cost of importing and exporting? US Customs and Border Protection estimates that 10+2 will add US$24-38 in incremental supply chain costs and $10-50 per import transaction in filing fees. US Customs has not been able to peg a cost to shipping delays caused by collecting and transmitting ISF data, but it does admit that origin transit times will likely increase by 2-3 days. Not surprisingly, industry representatives say that Customs is grossly underestimating the cost. For example, Customs has not taken into account the fact that linking origin, manufacturer and tariff number in the ISF essentially means that importers will be filing two virtually identical entries for the same shipment. Nor has Customs considered that increased transit times will undoubtedly translate into added inventory carrying costs. Finally, Customs does not include the cost of reprogramming ERP and SCM systems to handle the extra data elements. In addition to increased operational costs, there are potential costs associated with noncompliance. In the case of a failure to file, for example, Customs will impose a fine equal to the value of the shipment. Inaccurate or missing data can cost importers $5,000 per transaction. Even though 10+2 is slated for implementation within the next 12 months, much about the program is still not known. For example, it is unclear as to whether or not ISF data will be used for commercial enforcement purposes in addition to enabling container security. Questions also remain about who will be responsible for transmitting the 10 data elements and what format will be acceptable by Customs? Under 10+2, it is conceivable that fully-compliant goods could be held for investigation if they are part of an LCL (less than container load) consolidated shipment which includes cargo that failed to meet the reporting requirements. There is no doubt that 10+2 (and its imminent Canadian cousin) will cause short term pain for
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Randy Rotchin is President and Chief Executive Officer of Montreal-based Logical Properties Inc., a software development company specializing in automating Harmonized System commodity classification and HS Code verification. LPI's flagship technology, called "3CE", uses artificial intelligence to automate the processes of Harmonized System (HS) Commodity Classification and HS Code Validation. 3CE has demonstrated a prodigious ability to understand readily available commercial product information - no matter how it is expressed, and has become widely recognized as the most intelligent, intuitive, and accurate HS Classification Tool available. 3CE makes expertise available to shippers and trade practitioners who need to get answers instantly, consistently, and accurately. 3CE reduces the likelihood of non-compliance penalties, minimizes the possibility of duty overpayment, and streamlines the flow of commodity data along the supply chain. LPI's solutions are currently used by a variety of government and private sector organizations worldwide. For addition information, please contact Randy Rotchin at (514) 737-1500 or by email rlr@logicalproperties.com
many companies. However, there two simple measures that can be taken immediately to minimize the cost of compliance and the exposure to penalties. First, make certain that as much information about the products being shipped is gathered at the beginning of the procurement cycle rather than at the end. The practice of having foreign suppliers prepare their commercial documents only minutes before a shipment’s arrival must be abandoned. Classifying products (and determining their proper origin) at the time of purchase, and including HS codes on all purchase orders will stave off grief at the border. Second, ensure that Customs critical information flows seamlessly between you and your supply chain partners (suppliers, freight forwarders, and customs brokers). Collaboration and integration are key ways to mitigate the risks and lessen the burdens associated with 10+2 compliance. These two simple measures can be implemented with little effort and cost and, apart from meeting the stringent requirements of 10+2, are guaranteed to produce long-term operational benefits. If 10+2 signals one thing, it’s that the days of getting commercial documents to Customs Brokers a few days prior to vessel arrival so that they can be filed with Customs are over. n
TRADE
ca
The loss of the covered wagon — continued from page 8 L ETTER TO T H E EDITOR
Labels don’t have to be “scratchy” I am 100 percent behind you on the silly new law about the New Material label on the new items. However, as a label manufacturer, you do us quite an injustice in referring to “relatively scratchy mylar or tyvek labels”. Mylar labels are never used for this type of labeling and I can’t say in my 29 years that I have ever done a garment label using this material. It is normally used for pressure sensitive labels.
Imported products will be subject to more certification requirements than domestically produced goods, and the resulting cost of U.S. market access will necessarily increase, to the detriment of American consumers. Given the commercial impact of the CPSIA certification requirements, it becomes even more apparent that as the world becomes a global marketplace the marketplace is likely to become more, and not less, regulated. Supply chains will become more transparent and smaller manufacturers unable to certify product conformity may be unable to supply consumer products for the U.S. market, limiting product availability and promising increased consumer prices. There are few covered wagons peddling consumer goods to American consumers any more. As a result, manufacturers and importers of all
Tyvek can come in various weights and we would not use the same weight of stock for an oven mitt as for a mattress.
consumer goods, including wearing apparel and fabrics, must be prepared to do everything possible and required to guarantee the safety of their products to consumers, not only in America but throughout the entire global marketplace. And, if such product safety guarantees result in decreased product supply, increased consumer prices and the elimination of truly competitive commercial marketplaces, this is a price global consumers appear willing to pay, which threatens the very core of our competitive commercial marketplaces. n
If you would like further information about this or if you have any questions about how it may apply to your business, please do not hesitate to contact Gerald B. Horn (ghorn@strtrade.com) at (212) 883-1300 or Lauren V. Perez (lperez@strtrade. com) at (305) 267-9200.
Also, there are various grades of polyester ribbon that may be used to soften the feel of the labels. In general in our industry, there are many choices for making a label softer and they have had positive results in our market. Indeed I have watched our beloved domestic manufacturing downsize into a shell of what it was, and extra costs like these are not something we need right now. But rest assured they do not have to be scratchy.
Behind every great fabric there is a great interlining.
Frank McLaven, Laven Ind. Ltd./Laven Labels Markham, ON
When it comes to clothing, everyone has an opinion. What’s yours?
Veratex has been backing the best for over 20 years. Commited to offering top quality interlining products and always at the right price, our dedicated team takes pride in providing peak-level customer service and support. Our clients demand nothing less than the very best in quality, innovation, and price. You can count on Veratex to deliver just that.
Send your letters to: editor@apparel.ca Montreal – 5425 Casgrain Avenue – Suite 701 – Montreal – Quebec – H2T 1X6 – Tel.: (514) 274-4495 – Fax: (514) 274-2951 Toronto – 250 Wildcat Road – North York – Ontario – M3J 2N5 – Tel.: (416) 246-9800 – Fax: (416) 246-0320 Vancouver – Gordon Fabrics – Neil Macdermid – Tel.: (604) 275-2672 – Fax: (604) 275-4978 Winnipeg – Kliffer Agencies – Frank Kliffer – Tel.: (204) 942-4264 – Fax: (204) 947-9280 Alberta & Saskatchewan – Kliffer Agencies – Ryan Schoel – Tel.: (403) 291-4494 – Fax: (403) 291-5139 Quebec – Chabot & Graham Inc – Annabelle Chabot – Tel.: 1-800-463-4798 – Fax:(418) 681-7390 Atlantic Provinces – James Austin Sales – James Austin – Tel.: 1-800-295-2637
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Tartan cross seasons and gender Fabric directives are concise and to the point next season, with traditional tartans at the forefront of the fashion pack. Marni
dsquared2
Trends from WGSN Tartan is back and very visible across all categories and for all seasons, from cute tailed jackets to mini shorts. Punk and rock influences offer the most directional styling. Lumberjack shirts are key and work well paired with leather biker jackets. Highwaisted trousers offer the best trouser silhouette. Some designers opted for classic tartans, others played with rescaled and recolored effects. They were also seen in unexpected fabric bases like chiffon and brushed mohair or combined in differing scales and patterns for a mismatched feel. Expect to see casual tartan shirts (as seen at DSquared) at the junior end of the market.
Key colours:
Key product areas:
Rich reds, greens and blues
Tailored single-breasted jackets, double-breasteds, casual jackets, casual shirts
Key looks: • The great Outdoors • Classics with a twist • Rock gods • Layered proportion play
Fabric directives:
PHOTOS: WGSN
• Plaid attack • Blanket checks • A velvet touch • Traditional tweeds • Fashion animals • Shearling • Skin trade • Cirés
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Colors: • Purples and burgundy • Mood indigo • Peacock through to kingfisher • True blues • Shades of grey • Dusty pinks • Dijon • Pumpkin pie • Classic camel • Black on black
Industry News
ca
Industry News — continued from page 5
New president for Fondation de la Mode de Montréal Following the sudden death of Jacques A. Lefebvre, president and founder of the Fondation de la mode de Montréal, its board of directors has appointed Pierre Bovet as his successor. Bovet is the president of Le Groupe Bovet, which operates some 15 stores in Montreal and Quebec under different banners. The Fondation de la mode de Montréal will celebrate its 20th anniversary during its benefit evening “Pour aider la relève à prendre sa place”, which will take place at the Montréal Palais des Congrès on Monday, May 4. The name of the guest of honor will be announced shortly. The application period for higher education bursaries is currently open to young designers as well as to Cégep graduates and their teachers. Applicants can contact the Fondation de la mode de Montréal at (514) 939-4403 or by fax at (514) 939-2891.
Pure London launches ethical section Ethical brands including Komodo, Littlearth, Ideo, El Naturalista and Terra Plana are lined up to exhibit at Pure London’s new section, Ethical Pure, in February. The new section will be dedicated to clothing, footwear and accessories, from trend-led and commercial ethical brands, that are fair trade and feature organic and sustainable fabrics. The creation of the new section follows demand from show visitors who have increased the amount of ethical brand product in stores by an average of 11% to 15%, according to research by Pure London. Ethical Pure has partnered up by Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF), which promotes ethical business practices in the clothing industry. The EFF will also host seminars during the Pure London show.
continued on page 18
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Industry News
Industry News — continued from page 17
Experience the Tradition
Ethical Pure sponsor Made will be also showing at Pure London on February 8-10 at Olympia London. Source: www.purewomenswear.co.uk
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AHRC announces the new Apparel Career Focus Program:
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The AHRC will financially assist manufacturers with up to $12,750 ! to hire post secondary school graduates, aged between 15 to 30, for positions in apparel manufacturing. To ensure your candidate meets program eligibility requirements, please contact: Marie-Ăˆve Dubuc, Projects Manager. Tel.: (514) 388-7779, ext. 103 Fax: (514) 388-6926 mevedubuc@apparel-hrc.org
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