A Perfect Long Weekend In Historic San Antonio

By Wendy Lee Travel Writer

From two previous visits to San Antonio

I thought I knew what this city had to offer visitors.

There’s the Alamo of course, the Riverwalk, and plenty of restaurants serving Tex Mex food. But my third visit opened my eyes to what this town really has to offer; cuisine from around the World, a pioneering craft beer scene, 500 years of American history, a passion for public art, and plenty of festive outdoor spaces.

If you’ve never been to San Antonio–or if it’s been a while–you really need to visit soon. It will surprise and delight you.

Exploring the Riverwalk on land and water

My first experience of San Antonio’s River Walk was in February of 2015. It was cold, windy, and mostly deserted, so I’ll admit I didn’t enjoy it. Fast forward to September of 2023 and this time it was a whole different experience.

Located in the heart of the city, The River Walk is three

and half-miles of paved and landscaped paths along the San Antonio River. Flanking the walkway are restaurants, shops, hotels, museums, parks, and public art. It’s colorful, sometimes noisy, and always interesting. My favorite way to explore it is on foot, early in the morning. But I also enjoyed evening strolls as bars filled with patrons and live music began to play.

Another option is to purchase a ticket for the Go Rio San Antonio River Cruise. These 35 minute narrated rides give a different perspective of the River Walk while the guide shares the city’s history and the stories of colorful characters.

Remembering the Alamo

As the site of one of the most famous battles in North America, the Alamo looms large in our imaginations. But the remaining buildings are quite small, centered mostly on the flat-fronted church. Don’t let this deceive you. Centuries of history unfolded here before and after the 1836 battle. In addition to touring the small church, be sure to walk through the grounds to see where pivotal events took place.

The highlight of my visit to the Alamo was the recently opened Ralston Family Collections Center. Here you’ll find hundreds of artifacts documenting the history of The Alamo particularly and the Southwestern United States more broadly. Many of the artifacts once belonged to the collection of pop star, Phil Collins, before his donation in 2014. Weapons, letters, painting, flags, musical instruments, military uniforms, and much more help bring history to life.

Shopping and dining in the Pearl

Located at the heart of the Pearl is a century old brick brewery that at one time was the largest brewing company in Texas. Today this historic building has been carefully refurbished and reborn as a boutique hotel, upscale restaurants, and a gourmet market.

Surrounding the original building are a collection of shops, restaurants, and outdoor gathering places. I visited the Pearl three times in four days, once for lunch and twice for dinner. Needless to say, I loved this spot. Each time I watched couples and families socializing, eating, and shopping. It’s a comfortable place for kids to run around and play in the fountains while their parents relax with a beer or glass of wine. I highly recommend dinner at Carriqui and Southerleigh Fine Food & Brewery. The first describes itself as Southern Texas food and it was here I enjoyed the best frozen margarita of my life. Southerleigh also serves Texas inspired cuisine and offers an excellent selection of brews and cocktails. If you love tacos as much as I do, Chilaquil is the ideal stop, especially for a casual and affordable lunch.

Sampling local beers

I always love trying local beers while I travel so I knew I would enjoy visiting a few breweries during my time in San Antonio. What I didn’t expect was meeting the man responsible for kick-starting the black brewers movement in the U.S. Marcus Baskerville is the founder of Weathered Souls and a very innovative brewer. But he is also the man behind the National Black Brewers Association, an organization committed to helping brewers of color get started in this lucrative industry. If you’re visiting San Antonio, you must pop into Weathered Souls and sample several of their beers.

Other highly recommended local breweries include Alamo Beer Company, Roadmap Brewing Co., and Künstler Brewing.

Art in the city

I was struck by the number of murals and sculptures I saw during my strolls along the River Walk. It turns out the city is a hotbed of public art, and as I looked closer, I saw it everywhere. Fortunately there’s a directory that details every artwork in the city.

If you enjoy modern art museums as much as I do, be sure to set aside a few hours to visit the McNay Art Museum. Part of this museum is located in the former home of its founder, Marion Koogler McNay. The home, the grounds, and the art make for a great way to spend a day.

Where to stay

Over the course of three trips to San Antonio I’ve stayed in various places in the city, but I

definitely prefer to stay along the River Walk. And the Hotel Valencia might just be the perfect spot along the river. This Spanish themed hotel is located on a quieter stretch of the River Walk, so you get the views without the noise. The decor is warm and inviting, the rooms are large and comfortable, and the staff friendly and helpful. The doormen are so attentive that the front doors opened every time I approached, even before I could reach for the handle. There are a dozen or so restaurants and cafes within walking distance, most along the historic Houston Street.

San Antonio is a city worth the effort to visit. It could be a great stop as part of a Texas roadtrip, or a destination all on its own. The Alamo City has much to offer whether you enjoy history, gastronomy, art, or shopping.