6 minute read
Lowcountry, Roots, Revels and Reconstruction in South Carolina
“The greatness of man lies in the decision to be stronger than his condition.” A. Camus
By Renée S. Gordon History & Travel Writer
The Lowcountry is defined geographically as twelve counties in the eastern section of coastal South Carolina, where the mountains’ foothills meet the sandy coastal plains. The area is bordered by the Savannah River, the Atlantic Ocean and the Sea Islands. Much of the Lowcountry averages a mere 270-ft. above sea level and is rife with natural habitats including beaches, maritime forests, Live oak trees, palmettos, salt marshes and hundreds of impressive photo ops. Culturally and historically the region preserves and showcases its “biography” through greater than 1,500 sites, 300 National Historic Landmarks and more than 1,000 restaurants from upscale dining to local gas stations. #DiscoverSC
In 1540 Hernando de Soto entered what is now SC. On his journey he was met by more than twenty-five sizeable native tribes. Twenty-two years later French explorer Jean Ribault established a colony near Port Royal in Beaufort County and in the Sea Islands permanent settlements were documented as early as the 1690s.
In 1711 the City of Beaufort was the second city founded in South Carolina. Fort Moultrie’s fortifications were constructed on Sullivan’s Island in 1776, using palmetto tree logs, to protect Charleston from British attack. An attack by the British Navy took place in June of 1776. British cannonballs bounced off the palmetto logs resulting in a patriot victory. The palmetto tree became a symbol, as depicted on the state flag, for the people’s tenacity, hardiness and resilience.
The Lowcountry’s story of African American heritage is encapsulated within the larger story of US history. The focus of the trail is to trace the scope of events on the black community and the international impact of African American culture, diversity, music and cuisine of the Lowcountry. Their story personifies the values represented by the palmetto with unique cultural additions.
The trans-Atlantic slave trade and the institution of slavery were the backbone of SC’s economy. In 1790 the first census stated that Charleston’s population was 75% enslaved. By 1861 the enslaved population numbered 402,000, 10,000 free blacks and 291,000 whites statewide, accounting for about 30% of the population. A 1740 basic slave code is very harsh and reflects the fears of the white community. The Negro Act explicitly grantedcpermission for owners to kill slaves they deemed rebellious. In 1861 the Battle of Port Royal was fought and in December of that year the Union marched in and found a single white resident remaining. South Carolina had been the wealthiest city in SC and many white owners lived in Beaufort in grandiose townhouses. Upon occupation the Union found 10,000 enslaved people abandoned when their owners fled and these individuals were arguably the first freed slaves of the war.
Beaufort was first visited by Europeans around 1512. The city was built around a fort in 1706 and was wiped out by natives in 1715. From that time on Beaufort has been a witness to extraordinary events. There are 70 sites on the National Register of Historic Places and eateries designed to enhance your Lowcountry experience.
Do not miss the 7-acre Henry Chambers Waterfront Park and the marina. beaufortchamber.org
Robert Smalls was born a slave in Beaufort in 1839. His owner, McKee, hired him out in 1851. He worked on the Confederate ship CSS Planter where he learned every job. While the white crew was ashore on May 13, 1862 he loaded the ship with his family, black crewmen and their families. Clad as the captain he sailed through Charleston Harbor, turned the ship over to the Union and received a $1,500 bounty. He was promoted to captain of the Planter in 1863. He served in the State Legislature 1868-74 and the House of Representatives from 1875-1887. He purchased McKee’s former 2-story home and allowed McKee’s destitute widow to move into his mansion. The property was family owned until 1953.
Smalls died in 1915 and is buried in a plot along with family members at the 1811 Tabernacle Baptist Church. Built using enslaved labor, the church, originally a meetinghouse, was acquired by a black congregation in 1863. A tower was added in 1873. The gravesite is accessible as is a memorial bust of Smalls. Harriet Tubman served as a nurse in Beaufort and the church is currently raising funds for a Tubman Memorial to be placed on the grounds. The church remains active but only exterior viewing is available.
The Greek Revival Maxcy Milton House was constructed on the site of a previous 1740s house in 1810 and remodeled in 1850. It is known as the Secession House because meetings were held from the 1850s about secession. The home’s owner held 42 people in bondage. The home has Ionic and Corinthian columns, 6 marble fireplaces and a second-floor piazza.
President Obama established the Reconstruction Era National Monument (RENM) in January of 2017. Beaufort was selected as the site of the monument and visitor center primarily because it was the center of the Port Royal Experiment. The Union’s opening move in Reconstruction was a headquarters for the U.S. Bureau of Refugees, Freedmen and Abandoned Lands in South Carolina, and the location of SC’s first Freedmen’s Bank. It is tasked with fostering commemorating and educating individuals on the Reconstruction Era, 1861-76. The visitor center has displays on the era with an emphasis on the Port Royal Experiment in which the former enslaved were given food, shelter and education. They received land on which they once worked to farm and share profits with the government. Abandoned mansions were sold for taxes and some, like Robert Smalls, were able to purchase them. This is a must visit because it is the sole repository for a composite and cohesive view of the period after the Civil War and the first concentrated Civil Rights efforts.
Southern Living designated Beaufort “The South’s Best Smallest Town.” Once you have visited you will resoundingly agree. I deem the Beaufort Inn the best accommodations in Beaufort based on its location, near the Historic District and all the significant sites, the variety of guestrooms, outstanding amenities and ambiance. Vouchers for Blackstone’s Café may be included and provide guests an opportunity to enjoy a bountiful breakfast. Beaufortinn.com
Step into the story. Visit Beaufort.
