THE UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES MOUNTAINEERS www.upmountaineers.org.ph
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BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE No.1 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLIMB PREPARATION In preparing for a climb, several factors have to be taken into consideration by the prospective climber. No backpacker-beginner or expert-can ignore physical fitness in preparing for a climb. A certain level of fitness is required for a pleasant and safe climb. In order to enjoy the scenery and the company of fellow backpackers, one must be fit to keep up with them. The lack of preparation has made a lot of potentially great climbs end in total disaster. Physical Fitness : To help you in preparing for a climb, we have listed down some guidelines: 1.
All participants of the climb must be physically fit. The best type of fitness program involves continuous endurance training through aerobic sports such as running, swimming, cycling and walking.
2.
Weight training is the perfect supplement to an aerobic program. This will help you develop your muscular strength and endurance.
3.
Any participant in a climb who gets sick before the climb should forego his participation. A sick climber becomes a liability to the group.
4.
An old adage says that the best exercise for mountaineering is mountaineering. The hardiest hikers and climber are those who spend a great deal of their time hiking, backpacking and climbing.
5.
Being fit gives you the confidence to tackle climbs, such that psyching up come almost naturally.
Planning a climb : The success of an expedition depends largely upon the amount of planning given to the activity. The different components that make up a climb are discussed during the pre-climb meeting. In preparing for a climb, a plan to climb must first be submitted and approved by the officers of the organization in order to be a designated as an official climb. A Climb Report Form (filled out with the necessary details) is submitted to the Executive Cabinet at least three (3) days before the pre-climb meeting. The organizers of the climb should serve notice to the members at least one week beforehand. Announcements should include the objective, nature, requirements and itinerary of the climb. These announcements are to be posted at the organization’s Bulletin Board.
THE PRE-CLIMB MEET Organizational regulations require that all the participants of the climb conduct a pre-climb meeting at least three (3) days before the start of the climb. This is to ensure that the participants have enough time to prepare for the climb. The pre-climb is a comprehensive study, presentation and discussion of the essential parts of conducting a climb. Its format should include the following items:
A)
The objectives of the climb
The objectives of the climb should be determined beforehand since this will determine the nature, requirements and itinerary of the climb. Requirements for one type of climb may be radically different from that of another climb, therefore, all preparations for the climb should be viewed in light of the climb’s objectives. For example, if the objectives is to ascend Mt. Guiting-Guiting’s summit (in Romblon), then it follows that this climb would require a strong team, extra provisions and rock climbing equipment. B)
The nature of the climb
Climbs can be classified into six(6) categories: 1.
Training Climbs: The primary purpose of these climbs is to meet the training requirements of the Manuguit Outdoors Club applicants. The organization provides its applicants with a progressive training program, which gradually prepares them for major ascents.
2.
Minor Climbs: Minor climbs are also known as fun climbs. These climbs are conducted for their recreational value. They are light and relaxing backpacking trips to accessible places like Mt. Susong Dalaga in Lipa, Batangas and Imelda Falls in Majayjay, Laguna.
3.
Clean-up Climbs: The primary objective of a clean-up is to help preserve and maintain a highly impacted mountain by bringing down trash(left on the mountain), planting trees and maintaining trails. These climbs are commonly held in Mt. Makiling, Mt. Makulot and Mt. Arayat.
4.
Major Climbs: major climbs are ascents on mountains whose degree of difficulty is higher than those used on training climbs. it usually takes several days to complete these climbs. Mt. Banahaw, Mt. Kanlaon and Mt. Halcon are good examples of these climbs.
5.
Guideship Climbs: Mountaineers provide groups with guided ascents. For a fee, select members can organize a trek for groups interested in climbing a certain mountain. A guideship climb can tackle mountains classified as major or minor climbs.
6.
Exploratory Climbs: These are climbs wherein the routes are established and are ascended for the first time. An exploratory expedition requires great amount of preparation and careful planning.
C)
Route planning
An ascent must be studied with the aid of maps. The map usually gives information regarding existing and possible routes, communities within the periphery of the mountain, distribution of vegetation, approximate compass bearings and an approximation of the steepness of the terrain. More are discussed lengthily in the BMC 3 lecture. D)
The itinerary of the climb
The value of having an itinerary is realized in keeping up with schedules to avoid unnecessary discomforts such as being forced to do late treks or to set up camp in the dark. Programming activities maximizes efficient use of time. In multi-day ascents or exploratory climbs, the itinerary is usually formulated based on the study of the map which provides an approximation of the distances to travel. The amount of gear and provisions required is determined by the established itinerary. E)
Climb organization
The first step in organizing a climb is the selection of a team leader, a scribe, a medic and a tailman.
The Team Leader: The team leader is selected according to his/her familiarity with the mountain and his/her leadership potential. He /She is given an almost absolute role in decision making on that climb. However, he/she should also be open-minded enough to accept suggestion, especially on decisions involving the safety of the party. The Medic: The medic should have a thorough knowledge of first aid techniques. The Scribe : The scribe has the duty of documenting the details of the climb. The Tailman : The tailman has the responsibility of bringing up the rear. It is also a rule that a contact person must be chosen before the climb. The contact person should have a copy of the itinerary and is responsible for activating a search and rescue team (if he/she is not contacted within twenty-four (24) hours of the estimated date/time of arrival). The second part of organization is subdividing the big group into smaller groups of five to seven members. This facilitates the sharing of shelter, food preparation and increases the safety factor. The small groups shall have a leader who is responsible for the management of his/her members. F)
Budgeting
An essential part of climbing is determining the approximate cost of transportation, meals and other expenses. Each member usually pays for his/her transportation fare. A certain individual may be assigned to prepare a certain meal during the climb. The cost of all the meals is summed up and payments are settled later (usually in the post-climb meeting). Other expenses like spare batteries, trail food, etc. are for the account of the individual mountaineer, unless discussed otherwise by the group members. G)
Meal planning
The amount of food to be carried on an expedition is determined by the length of stay in the wild plus extra rations in case of emergencies. The climber must avoid buying his/her meal requirements at the jump-off point because the presence of stores or markets in the area is uncertain. Even if the climber finds one, it’s still uncertain that the store will have what he’s searching for. It is better that the climber plans his/her meal before the climb so he/she can avoid those stuffs. Besides, what are pre-climb meets for? The type and amount of food to be used and brought can be determined by the following guidelines. 1. 2.
3. 4.
Meals should be able to provide and replenish the energy requirements of the climber. This means packing a lot of carbohydrates with protein and fat rich food. Multi-day ascents require meals that will not spoil easily. Food can be preserved through drying, pickling and salting. Food treated with spices and vinegar usually lasts for days. There are also meals which can’t spoil quickly (See Appendix for details) It is easier to plan and prepare meals for smaller groups. Large groups require large and heavy cooking utensils. Meals should not be limited to pre-packaged food or canned goods. The creative outdoorsman can come up with a hundred different ways of preparing nutritious and delicious meals in the wild.
Keep in mind however that the wise backpacker will design menus which will use light ingredients. Canned tomato sauce may be replaced by powdered tomato paste. Soup mixes are lighter than their canned versions. By using light ingredients, you will be able to lessen your load. Trail meals are helpful in eliminating hunger and exhaustion during trekking. It can even act as your main meal if you fail to eat during meal time due to delayed itineraries. Trail food should meet 3 requirements:
1. 2. 3.
It should not induce thirst, since it would induce the climber to consume more water. Nutritious and must satisfy your body’s energy requirements. Sweets in general, meet this criteria but may require some catabolic conversions before your body can use it as a fuel. Easy to prepare and should require little or no cooking at all. Time and fuel constraints must be considered.
Samples of trail food: Crackers, nuts, candies, chocolates, fresh or dried fruits, corn flakes, pre-packed gelatines, etc. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRAIL MOVEMENT AND POST-CLIMB MEET A) Group Formation During the trek, there are some conventions followed regarding group formation. Some are listed below: 1. 2. 3.
B)
1. 2. 3. C)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
The lead man is always in front and is responsible for pacing the group, while the tail man is responsible for bringing up the rear. Line formation on narrow trails should be single file. Overtaking should be avoided The ideal distance between two climbers is approximately two(2) meters. This gap will give climbers some space in which to negotiate the trail and proceed along the group’s pace. Trail signals The signal for stopping is one long whistle blasts - and to commence trekking, two short whistle blasts. The lead and tail men are the only persons who can give orders to stop or proceed. The international mountaineering distress signal is six(6) blasts to a minute. To signal aid is on the way, give (3) blasts to a minute. Pacing Always start with a slow pace to slowly warm up your muscles. Then gradually change your pace to the group’s desired pace. The pace of the group should be that of the slowest member or the person who has the heaviest load. Do not allow anyone to lag behind. Should there be a need to stop, inform the lead or tail man so that he or she can give the appropriate order to stop. Maintain a steady rhythm while trekking. When negotiating steep slopes, keep the rhythm (pace) by shortening your strides. On level ground, maintain the rhythm by taking longer strides.
D) Trail techniques In negotiating the trail, some techniques must be kept in mind in order to provide the safest and least difficult route to the summit or objective. Some guidelines regarding moving on the trail have also been mentioned here. 1. 2.
3. 4. 5.
The ridge line is most often followed in path finding. Avoid water lines and gullies since water always takes the steepest route down the mountain. When crossing rivers or streams, bend your knees and face in a direction diagonal to the flow of the current to prevent the strong ones from knocking you down. Unfasten your hipbelt and sternum strap when crossing rivers and streams - whether a log bridge, over rocks or through the water itself. This will allow you to remove your backpack quickly in case you lose your balance or fall into the water. Backpacks tend to float, forcing you under the water. Do not step on obstacles for they might upset your balance. Avoid dislodging rocks. To maintain balance and traction during descent, learn to dig first with your heel or the side of your foot. When there is a need to hold on roots or vines, make sure first that they are sturdy enough to carry your weight and that they do not have any thorns.
E) Rests The interval between different stops will usually depend on the difficulty of the terrain encountered. Some guidelines are listed below: 1. 2. 3.
Treks on level ground - five (5) minutes rest for every hour of hiking. Ascents - five (5) minutes rest for every thirty (30) minutes of hiking; on steep slopes - five (5) minutes rest for every fifteen (15) minutes of hiking. Descents - five (5) minutes of rest for every hour of hiking.
During rest periods, do not sit or lie down at once. Keep standing at least thirty (30) seconds to allow your pulse to slow down to normal levels before sitting down. When resting, sip your water if you are thirsty. Drinking too much quickly will induce an abrupt lowering of your body temperature. Check your equipment before pack-up time and heed the signal of the lead man immediately. F) Trail signs It is unavoidable that there will be times when you have to communicate with other members of your team or even other teams during a climb through the use of trail signs. G) Trail Regulations 1. When trailblazing, avoid the indiscriminate cutting of vegetation. Keep trailblazing to a minimum to preserve the natural state of the wilderness. Inform the person behind you of imminent obstacles or dangers along the path. 2. When the group is unsure of the proper path toward the objective, several members should scout for the right trail or path. 3. Side trails not in use should be closed to prevent others from using them. This can be done by blocking the path with sticks or branches. 4. To make the path safer for hikers following you, cut sharp thorns and poisonous plants along the trail. 5. Do not litter. Pocket all food wrappers. 6. Smoking on the trail or during short rests is strictly prohibited. 7. Straps, flaps, belts and knots may come loose during the trek. It is the duty of the person behind you to inform you if you had dropped anything on the trail. 8. If you get lost, do not panic. Asses your position and then take the necessary steps to find the correct route. 9. In the event of an accident, keep the casualty comfortable and relaxed. Administer first-aid and transfer the person to the nearest clinic or hospital. The Post-Climb Meet An essential part of the climbing experience is the climb’s assessment. This is where the participants of the climb give their impressions and personal feedback on the climb. The team should meet within five(5) days after the climb to review the strong and weak points of the climb. All the participants of the climb are required to attend the post-climb meeting to share their assessments. During the meeting, the team leader presides at the meeting while the scribe takes down the notes. For future reference, the scribe fills up the Climb Report Form and submit it to the secretariat for filling within two(2) days after the assessment. As a rule, all group equipment should be returned during the post-climb meeting. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BASIC CLIMBING ESSENTIALS Familiarity with the equipment used in mountaineering is a requirement for any serious outdoors man. Bringing the right equipment will spell the difference between a comfortable night’s rest and a miserable, sometimes disastrous, night in the wild. The number of equipment for mountaineering is so varied today that selecting the appropriate item for you becomes a chore.
For this course, we will discuss the items that should go into your backpack for your stay in the wild. We will also discuss attire for trekking and the proper care and maintenance of equipment. Climbing equipment can be divided into two types - personal equipment and group equipment. You will find below the item’s checklist for personal and group use. They are as follows: Personal use: 1) Backpack One of the basic pieces of equipment you, as a mountaineer will bring on the trek is your backpack. An ideal backpack is large enough to contain all the gear and provisions you will need for a certain trip. Since backpacks come in several sizes, make sure your backpack should also be sturdy enough to endure the stress of rough handling and carrying heavy loads. Today’s backpacks come with several features that make carrying loads over long distances more comfortable. One of these features is the padded hipbelt. The hipbelt transfers the weight of the pack from the shoulders to the hips, which increases comfort and carrying capacity. It also prevents the pack from swaying excessively. Padded shoulder straps lessen the strain on your shoulders. A sternum strap will prevent the shoulder straps from slipping off your shoulders. Quick-release buckels and gadgets make it easy for you to adjust your pack. There are two types of backpacks used in mountaineering. These are: a) The External Frame Pack: with this type of backpack, the pack is attached to an external aluminum or plastic frame shaped like you back and has a structure similar to that of a ladder. The shoulder straps are attached to one of the upper rings of the frame. Backbands on the lower part of the frame from a gap between your back and the pack which helps provide ventilation. The sack is usually divided into two compartments and usually comes with several external pockets.
b)
External frame packs are designed to carry heavy and unbalanced loads, and are ideal for treks with wide, well-trodden trails. They may be cumbersome during a trek along narrow trails since they tend to get entangled on vines and branches. On steep ascents, the external pack forces the body to stoop forward, putting the weight flat on the back. The Internal Frame Pack: The frame of the pack is incorporated into the sack. This frame, usually made of aluminum bars or plastic, is contoured to conform to your back’s shape and is held in place by sleeves along the back of the pack. Internals are designed to hug the body more closely and give the arms room to move. They provide good balance on steep ascents and ease of movement when moving along narrow trails. Fixtures like lumbar pads increase comfort and compression straps help balance the load in the sack. Since an internal pack is supported (usually) only by two parallel stays (bars), you must balance your load with more care than you would when using an external. An internal can also be quite warm since it hugs your back. Internals also feature a top loading design which can be bothersome when unloading a gear.
2) Boots Some trekkers consider their boots as being their most essential piece of personal equipment. A good pair of boots is: a) Ankle-high to prevent sprains b) Cleated for traction c) Sturdy enough to withstand heavy use and exposure to the elements. There are two types of boots used in tropical climates, the all-leather boot and the lightweight boot. The all leather boot is usually sturdier, more supportive and water repellant, but is warm and heavy. The lightweight boot is lighter and cooler but less water resistant and provides less ankle support. A boot with a low impact sole is to be preferred to a boot an aggressive sole. These new soles provide good traction while helping minimize your impact upon the trail and help prevent erosion.
3)
Candles
4)
Clothing The type and amount of clothing to bring on a trek depends on the length of the trek and the conditions (like rain or cold) you expect to encounter. Outdoor clothing should be able to provide protection against the elements. Layering your clothing will also lessen your clothing requirements and is more versatile in handling different conditions. This matter is discussed further in the BMC 1 lecture. 5) Dog Tag and Whistle Your name tag (with your blood type) and whistle should always be worn during a climb for emergency use. Any kind of identification you can carry during a climb is also helpful.
6)
Earth Pad
7)
First Aid Kit: This kit contains essential supplies such as Triangular or Elastic bandages, medication for fever, diarhea, allergies, skin irritation, other illnesses, Puritabs (for water purification), alcohol, insect repellent, disinfectant and a snakebite kit. This kit should always be checked before every climb and is to be placed in a waterproofed container. 8)
Flash Light
9) Food (See Meal planning) 10) Folding knife This is a small and compact knife which can be folded into its handle for convenience and protection. An example is the Swiss Army Knife. It often has other accessories such as a can opener, a saw, a screwdriver and other useful tools. The blade is used for cutting rope, cooking, whittling and other camp chores. Proper care: • Sharpen your knife on a fine-grained sharpening stone. Use oil or water as lubricant. Lay the blade edge on a stone. Raise the back of the edge slightly (a 30-degree angle between the blade and the stone will suffice). Stroke the edge towards you and off the stone with a slicing motion, as if you were slicing into the stone. Turn the blade over and stroke it away from you the next time. Continue back and forth until the full length of the edge is sharp. Wipe the blade. • Keep your knife keen and clean at all times. • Never use it on things that might dull it. • Keep it off the ground because moisture and dirt will corrode it. • Wipe the blade clean after using it then close carefully. • Keep it out of fire. The heat draws the temper of the steel blade and makes it soft and useless. • Treat the joints to an occasional drop of oil to keep the blades easy to open. • If blade do not move easily, open a few times in warm water, then dry in oil. 11)
Fuels for the stove
12)
Lighter and Matches
13)
Mess Kit and Drinking cup
14)
Note book and Pencil
15)
Plastic Bags and Trash Bags
16)
Packed Lunch
17)
Rain Gear/Poncho
18)
Repair Kit:
19)
Rice and eggs
20)
Rubber Bands / Garters
21)
Sandals / Slippers
22) Sleeping Bag The ideal tropical sleeping bag is light, compact and quick drying but warm enough to provide protection. Three-season sleeping bags are more than adequate for tropical climbing. Filling materials for sleeping bags include foam, fiber batting, polyester cotton and down. These materials determine the suitability of the bag for certain conditions, as some filling material provide more protection than others.
Proper care: • Wash your bag only when it's so dirty you can no longer stand it. Each time you wash a bag, it loses a little of its l oft. • To keep your bag cleaner between washings, try a lightweight sleeping bag liner - either silk or nylon; not cotton. • Wash sleeping bags according to the manufacturer's instructions. • You can hand-wash bags in a bathtub. Always handle a wet sleeping bag as if it's made of eggshells, because the weight of the water can tear the baffles, which will render all the "draft tubes", "differential cuts", and "shingle constructions" useless. • Dry your bag on the air-dry cycle with no heat. If you hang the bag up to dry, make sure it has plenty of support so the baffles don't tear. Several parallel clotheslines will work. • Shake out and fluff up your bag before you use it to increase the loft and make it warmer. • Don't store your bag in the sack it comes in! Instead, leave it out or store it in a big pillowcase. Too much compression of the down will break down the loft. 23)
Spoon and Fork
24)
Sun Protection
25) Survival Kit The survival kit should be put into a compact and waterproof container which can be carried by the person during short hikes without a backpack. The contents include the following: waterproofed matches, a small knife, a plastic tarp, a surgical rubber tube and emergency rations. Survival kits are usually placed in a pack’s top compartment for easy access and portability. 26) Toiletries 27) Trail Food (See meal planning) 28)
Trail Water
29)
Tying string
30)
Wind Breaker
31)
Water containers
Group Equipment: The group equipment is divided among the members of the group. Each is assigned a specific equipment to bring. If a climber fails to participate in the climb because he/she got sick, it is his/her responsibility to bring his/her assigned group equipments and group food to the meeting place before the climb. 1) Bolo 2) Map and Compass 3) Cookset 4) Flag 5) Tent 6) Rope 7) Stove 8) Groundsheet
Packing of equipment The maximum carrying load should not exceed one-third (1/3 or 33%) of your body weight. All equipment which may be affected or damaged by water should be wrapped and sealed in durable plastic bags. Use a large plastic bag as the inner lining for the backpack to provide additional protection. Light items should be packed at the bottom and away from the frame while heavy items should be placed close to the frame. The goal is to have a balanced pack. Things which will be needed often or will require quick access (e.g., rain gear, first-aid, Swiss Knife, trail food, trail water, etc.) should be placed in the top compartment or on the other side pockets for accessibility. Flashlights should be stored with their batteries taped at the ends to avoid energy drain. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOOD PRESERVATION Food preservation and preparation are crucial in mountaineering. There is no better reward to a long exhausted day of trekking than the satisfaction of a delicious, well-prepared and meal. For preserving meat (like beef, pork and chicken), the meat should first be cut into strips or cubes. Boil the strips or cubes in a solution of one(1) cup vinegar and one(1) cup of water with two(2) tablespoons of salt and one(1) tablespoon of pepper for every kilogram of meat. Onions, garlic and other spices you wish to add may be included. Despite this method of preservation, the meat will not have a sour or salty aftertaste therefore, this method can be used to prepare the meat for any type of dish to be served in camp. Dried and preserved food is relatively stable so further treatment may not be necessary. Fish can be dried and salted before packing. One of the common precooked meals brought by mountaineers during climbs is the ever popular, well loved and indestructible pork adobo. The following is the usual recipe for it:
Pork Adobo Ingredients: 1 kilo of pork 1 cup of vinegar ž cup soy sauce Ÿ tsp. Peppercorn 1 clove garlic cooking oil Procedure: Mix all ingredients in one pan and allow to boil. Simmer over low fire until pork is tender. Remove remaining sauce from the pan. Add a little cooking oil and fry pork until it turns golden brown. Return sauce to pan and simmer for two or more minutes. remove from fire and let cool before packing.