WELCOME TO BUCHAREST & ROMANIA
Dear Reader, Bucharest is a great city and getting better every day. New restaurants, pubs and boutiques, new shopping centers, and office buildings, are cropping up all over like mushrooms, while many of the older beautiful buildings get cleaned up and renovated. Here, in our book, you will find most of the information you will need to enjoy yourself in one of the liveliest capitals of Europe. From restaurants to museums, from sports to business, we provide the detailed, accurate information to make your visit both productive and fun. While providing you with the needed basic information we have also tried to give you some of the historic background, as well as interesting vignettes about life in Bucharest and beyond. Most of our articles have been written by Bucharesters, and offer you an ‘insider’ perspective at many aspects of life in the City. If you are traveling on business, we invite you to take a look at our business section, with articles written by local business people, including ex-pats doing business here. You’ll get some first hand information on the goings on in the business world of Bucharest. Here you will also find listings of institutions and services which you may need. Our book is filled with maps and photographs which will guide you to many of the historical sites of Bucharest. And, if you plan on visiting other areas of Romania, you’ll find some information here, which may whet your appetite to see more of this beautiful, albeit still somewhat undeveloped country. Enjoy your visit! Ludwig Gelobter Publisher
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CONTENTS
table of contents Basics .................................. 8 the carpathian garden 8 basic information 10 city maps 14 embassies 18 fascinating chronical 20 timeline 26 green oases 28
Business ............................ 36 investment opportunities under the new PPP legislation 36 renewable energy - legal framework present and perspectives 40 business connections 44
Museums .......................... 56 a must see list 56 Mogosaia - Red Brick Palace 60
Places of Warship ............. 66 Public Transportation ....... 70 the metro, an emergent operating system getting around
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Shopping ........................... 90 fashion and smart shopping 90 shopping guide 96
Dining Out ....................... 104 alivenci, nettle stew, chisalita, melon peel preserve, turte‌ 104 restaurants - a selection 118
Enjoying Arts ................... 130 cultural expressions arts and artists
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After Dark ........................ 140 casinos and coffee shops when the night comes
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Leisure Activities .............. 80 Land of Miracles ............. 148 scent of the past at your leisure
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historical provinces 152 jurneys to the danube delta 160
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the carpathian garden Bucharest is a great starting point if you want to explore Romania. As the main highway junction, roads originating here cross the country in all directions.
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Photos: • The Danube Gorge panorama • Poienari – Dracula’s Castle (bottom left) • Sunset over Danube (bottom right)
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he main European route E60, which starts in Hamburg, passes through Bucharest before it ends in Constanta. Bucharest is also the starting point for the only three freeways (A1 to Pitesti, A2 to Constanta and A3 to Ploiesti) and largest railway terminus in the country. Eight trunk lines start in the North Station and most of them link Romania to the international traffic. Of course Bucharest also has two of the country’s 17 airports. At most train stations in popular tourist destinations you may find a night’s accommodations in a private room of the local residents home. This is a unique way to gain insight into the country and economical as well. These pseudo “bed and breakfasts” provide a fun way to travel if you get burned out on hotel-hopping. Most palaces, castles and monasteries offer tours in multiple languages, Taxi drivers in many areas will offer to serve as tour guide and shuttle service. This can be an interesting way to see some common and not so common sights, but make sure to settle on a price before starting the trip. Check with travel agencies about package tours or invest in a good guidebook and find your own way. Romania offers great hiking and skiing for the active, or, seaside lounging for the less ambitious. Whether it’s rest and relaxation, history or religion you seek, take the time to explore the country. Getting out of Bucharest is a must for anyone who wants to experience the real Romania.
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ROMANIA
basic information Located in Southeastern Europe, Romania is bordered by the Republic of Moldavia, Ukraine, Hungary, Serbia, Bulgaria and the Black Sea.
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Population As of Population and Housing Census in 2011, Romania had a stable population of 19,042,936 people, the majority (88.6%) being ethnic Romanians with 6.5% Hungarians, 3.2% Gypsy (or Rroma) and 1.7% Germans, Ukrainians, Serbs, Turks, Tatars, Slovaks, Jews and other nationalities. Romania, the twelfth largest country in Europe, covers 238,391square km and is divided into 41 counties (judete) and the Municipality of Bucharest, which form six historical regions (Moldavia, Transylvania, Crisana, Banat, Wallachia and Dobruja). Bucharest is the country’s capital and the largest city. It has an area of 228 sq. km and is home to 1.678 million people. The national capital since 1862, Bucharest is located in the plains between the Carpathian Mountains and the Danube River.
Climate Although it is located in a temperate zone, Bucharest is affected by continental air masses originating from neighboring areas. Eastern air currents give excessive temperature variations of up to 70° C, from hot summers to cold winters. In winter, temperatures can fall below 0° C, with heavy snowfall from December to March. Summers are usually sunny and hot - perfect for lounging by the seaside. Spring and Fall have mild temperatures and bring exquisite changes to the city’s vegetation, making these seasons the ideal time to visit. Average rainfall is 600 - 700 mm, most of it falling between October and July. Temperatures average 22.8° C (83° F) in Bucharest in July, but recent heat waves have brought temperatures up to 40° C (104° F).
Language Like Spanish, Portuguese, French, Italian and Catalan, Romanian is a Romance language, but it shares stronger similarities with Vulgar Latin than with other Romance languages. Romanian established its Latin roots during the Roman Empire’s occupation of the region during the third century and, although the language incorporated some Slavic words, maintained its Latin heritage in a land surrounded by Slavic dialects. Speakers of Portuguese and Italian may find that Romanian sounds like a combination of the two. English and French are common second languages spoken; German is more prevalent in the Transylvanian region.
Government Romania is a constitutional republic with a multi-party, bicameral parliamentary system divided into a Senate and House of Representatives. Its constitution is based on that of France’s Fifth Republic. Bucharest is the political and administrative center of Romania. Parliamentary elections take place every four years, while presidential elections are held once at five years. Those minorities receiving less than three percent are awarded one deputy seat as mandated in the Constitution. Headquarters for the Constitutional Court, the Supreme Court of Justice, the General Headquarters of the Police and all foreign embassies are also located in Bucharest.
Time Romania is in the Eastern European time zone (GMT +2) and changes to
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Daylight Savings Time (GMT +3), from the last Sunday of March to the last Sunday in October.
Business Hours In general, banking hours are weekdays between 09:00 and 17:00 or 18:00. Most shops and markets are closed on Sundays. While supermarkets stay open later, many small shops close around 18:00 on weekdays. The shopping centers are open 10:00 to 22:00, seven days a week. Religion The main religion of Romania (86.8% of the population) is Romanian Orthodox. Of the remaining population approximately 4.7% is Roman Catholic, 3.2% is Protestant, 1.5% is Pentecostal, 0.9% is Greek Orthodox, 0.3% is Muslim, 0.2% is Jewish and 2.4% with other religions. The seat of the Romanian Orthodox Church - the Patriarchy - is located in Bucharest close to Piata Unirii.
Education Romania boasts a 97% literacy rate and school is compulsory through the tenth grade. Within Bucharest there are 345 junior-high schools, 166 high schools and vocational schools, 56 colleges and 28 state and private universities.
Money The official Romanian currency is the leu (plural: lei), which is subdivided into 100 bani (singular: ban). Bank notes come in denominations of: 500 lei, 200 lei, 100 lei, 50 lei, 10 lei, 5 lei, and 1 leu; coins in 50, 10, 5 and 1 ban. Currency can be exchanged at hotels, banks or official exchange offices (Casa de schimb valutar). Travelers’ checks in US dollars are easiest to exchange (usually for a seven percent fee), but they are only accepted at banks, tourist offices and some hotels. Changing money on the street is illegal and inadvisable, as scam artists are more than willing to take advantage of gullible tourists.
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Credit Cards While their use is becoming more common, credit cards are widely accepted in Romania. Within Bucharest, most major hotels, restaurants and shops will accept Visa, MasterCard or American Express. Be sure to ask before counting on credit card payment for accommodation, meals or purchases. Cash advances on credit cards can be taken out at most city banks. ATMs, called Bancomats, are spreading throughout the country. You can get cash from most ATMs in lei.
Communications International, local or long-distance calls can be made from the orange public telephones located throughout the cities. The phone card values are: 10.00 lei, 15.00 lei, 20.00 lei and can be purchased at post offices, and shops displaying RomTelecom logo, or from the RomTelecom offices. International calls can be made from the Telephone Palace (Palatul Telefoanelor) on Calea Victoriei, major Post Offices and from public phones with a phone card, or from private phones with international access. When dialing an International destination you can dial directly or through an operator, by dialing 971. To get an international connection you must first dial (00) followed by the country code (without the first 0), the area code and then the individual number. Dial 021-800-4444 for British Telecom, 021-800-4288 for AT&T USA Direct and 021800-1800 for MCI Worldwide. Romania’s country code is (40); the city code for Bucharest is (021). Cellular phones are extremely popular —you can purchase a phone and basic calling plan for about US $ 30 a month or less. Mobile phones can be rented at the airport or at most major hotels. Internet Usage Statistics: 7.80 million Internet users as of June 2010, 42% of the population. Romania’s Internet and broadband market is experiencing strong growth. Broadband services are widely
available from the cable operators as well as the fixed-line RomTelecom, which has also launched ADSL services. Large LANbased broadband services are also popular. Triple play services have been launched by the cable operators. WiFi hot spots - wireless 802.11b Internet access is provided in major hotels, free or paid, and always free in several restaurants, pubs & cafes. You can also use some pay-Internet cafes.
Mail Post offices (Posta Romana) are spread throughout the city; the main post office is located at 12, Matei Millo St., near the phone company building and Novotel Hotel. Post offices are usually open Monday through Friday 07:30 - 20:00 (lunch break 13:00 – 13:30), Saturday 08:00 - 14:00 and closed on Sunday. Mailboxes are red and located throughout the cities. When sending purchases home remember that all packages must be inspected before shipment, so bring them to the post office unsealed.
Media English-language newspapers and magazines are easy to find in Romania, and some of the major Romanian newspapers publish English sections or weekly English editions. You can also find weekly, locally published, English-language business and tourist publications at some newsstands and in hotel lobbies. Some bookstores in the center of town carry popular magazines in French and a few in English. Maps and guides to the city can be purchased from hotels, tourist offices and some roadside kiosks. Romania has seven major television stations, all based in Bucharest. Aside from national programming, many English, Spanish and French television shows and movies are broadcasted in their original language with Romanian subtitles. Cable, with access to international news networks and shows is widely available.
Festivals “Summertime may as well translate to festival in Romanian”, especially in the resorts along the Black Seacoast (Mangalia and Mamaia) that thrive on an almost-constant barrage of festivals and popular Romanian music concerts. Some of the country’s better-known parties include Bucharest’s festival in September, Brasov’s Golden Stag international pop music festival in August and Transylvania’s medieval festival in July. Also popular are Hora la Prislop, a folklore festival in Maramures in July and the August International Festival of Danubian Folklore in Tulcea, which hosts performers from all countries touched by the Danube River.
Public Holidays Public holidays in Romania are New Year’s (January 1 and 2), Easter Monday, Whitsuntide (50 days after Easter), Labor Day (May 1), Saint Mary’s Day (August 15), National Day (December 1) and Christmas (December 25 and 26). National Day is the anniversary of the 1918 Union of all regions of Romania into a single country. The school year runs from September 15 to June 15, with holiday periods at Christmas and Easter, while university classes usually begin mid-October.
Dangers & Annoiances While the crime rate in Bucharest is fairly low, pickpockets are becoming more daring. Watch your bags and pockets when using public transportation. Women may receive unwanted attention in the form of stares, hisses and honks from some local guys.
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embassies Here is a list of foreign embassies located in Bucharest. For comprehensive information on foreign missions in Romania please check the Foreign Ministry web site: www.mae.ro
Albania 7, Duiliu Zamfirescu St. Ph.: 021-211-9829 Fax: 021-210-8039
Belarus 6, Tuberozelor St. Ph.: 021-223-1776 Fax: 021-223-1763
Chile 24, Grivitei Ave., 4th floor Ph.: 021-312-7239 Fax: 021-312-7246
Czech Republic 11, Ion Ghica St. Ph.: 021-303-9230 Fax: 021-312-2539
Algeria 4, Theodor Aman St. Ph.: 021-211-5150 Fax: 031-620-8213
Belgium 58, Dacia Blvd. Ph.: 021-210-2969 Fax: 021-210-2803
China 2, Nordului Ave. Ph.: 021-232-1732 Fax: 021-233-0684
Denmark 3, Dr. Burghelea St. Ph.: 021-300-0800 Fax: 021-312-0358
Argentina 11, Ion Campineanu St. et 3, ap 301 Ph.: 021-312-2626 Fax: 021-312-0116
Bosnia and Herzegovina 12, Stockholm St. Ph.: 021-409-2601 Fax: 021-409-2603
Congo D. R. 21 Bruxelles St., Ph./Fax: 021-210-5498
Egypt 67, Dacia Blvd. Ph.: 021-211-0938 Fax: 021-210-0337
Armenia 27, Poiana Entr. Ph.: 021-233-2452 Fax: 021-233-2725 Austria 7, Dumbrava Rosie St. Ph.: 021-201-5612 Fax: 021-210-0885 Azerbaidjan 10, Grigore Gafencu St. Ph.: 021-233-2484 Fax: 021-233-2465
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Croatia 1, Dr. Burghelea St. Ph.: 021-300-3655 Fax: 021-313-0384
Brazil 40, Aviatorilor Blvd. Ph.: 021-230-1130 Fax: 021-230-1599 Bulgaria 5, Rabat St. Ph.: 021-230-2159 Fax: 021-230-7654 Canada 1-3, Tuberozelor St. Ph.: 021-307-5000 Fax: 021-307-5010
Cuba 73, Nicolae Caranfil St., 4th floor, Gh. Simionescu Entr. Ph.: 021-211-8739 Ph.: /Fax: 021-211-8916 Cyprus 2, Petofi Sandor St. Ph.: 021-223-0455 Fax: 021-223-0456
Finland 2 bis, Atena St. Ph.: 021-230-7526 Fax: 021-230-7505 France 13-15, Biserica Amzei St. Ph.: 021-303-1000 Fax: 021-303-1090 Germany 6-8, Av. Gh. Demetriade St. Ph.: 021-202-9830 Fax: 021-230-5846
Greece 1-3, Pache Protopopescu Blvd. Ph.: 021-209-4170 Fax: 021-209-4175
Malaysia 11, Drobeta St. Ph.: 021-211-3801 Fax: 021-210-02-70
Serbia 34, Calea Dorobantilor Ph.: 021-211-9872 Fax: 021-210-0175
Thailand 12, Vasile Conta St. Ph.: 021-311-0031 Fax: 021-311-0044
Hungary 63-65, Dr. Prof. Dimitrie Gerota St. Ph.: 031-620-4300 Fax: 021-312-0467
Suveran Military Order of Malta 10, Montreal St., WTC 2nd floor, E Entr., Ph.: 021-208-5800 Fax: 021-208-5801
Slovakia 3, Otetari St. Ph.: 021-300-6100 Fax: 021-300-6101
Turkey 72, Calea Dorobantilor Ph.: 021-206-3700 Fax: 021-210-3737
Slovenia 25, Teheran St. Ph.: 021-300-2780 Fax: 021-315-0927
Ukraine 24, Aviatorilor Blvd. Ph.: 021-230-3660 Fax: 021-230-3661
South Africa 26-28, Stirbei Voda St., 2nd floor Ph.: 021-313-3725/85 Fax: 021-313-3795
United Arab Emirates 4, Modrogan Alley Ph.: 021-231-7676 Fax: 021-231-5588
South Korea 29, Primaverii Blvd. Ph.: 021-230-7198 Fax: 021-230-7629
United Kingdom 24, Jules Michelet St. Ph.: 021-201-7200 Fax: 021-201-7299
Spain 43, Alexandru Alley Ph.: 021-318-1077 Fax: 021-318-1071
URuguay 19-21, Primaverii Blvd., 1st floor, Ph.: 021-313-8129/30 Fax: 021-313-8129
Sudan 12-14, Pictor Ion Negulici St., Ph.: 021-233-9181 Fax: 021-233-9188
U. S. A. 4-6, Dr. Liviu Librescu Blvd. . Ph.: 021-200-3300 Fax: 021-200-3442
Sweden 43, Kiseleff Ave. Ph.: 021-406-7100 Fax: 021-406-7124
Vatican 5-7, Pictor Stahl St. Ph.: 021-312-3883 Fax: 021-312-0316
Switzerland 16-20, Gr. Alexandrescu St. Ph.: 021-206-1600 Fax: 021-206-1620
Venezuela 18, Pictor Mirea St. Ph.: 021-222-5874 Fax: 021- 222-5073
India 183, M Eminescu St. Ph.: 021-211-5451 Fax: 021-211-0614
Morocco 78, Dionisie Lupu St. Ph.: 021-317-4124 Fax: 021-317-4144
Indonesia 10, Gina Patrichi St. Ph.: 021-312-0742/43/44 Fax: 021-312-0214
Mexico 22, Louis Pasteur St. Ph.: 021-210-4577 Fax: 021-210-4713
Iran 39, Lascar Catargiu Blvd. Ph.: 021-312-0493 Fax: 021-312-0496
Moldova 40, Alexandru Alley Ph.: 021-230-0474 Fax: 021-230-7790
Iraq 6-8, Venezuela St. sector 1 Ph.: 021-233-9008 Fax: 021-233-9007
Netherlands 20, Alexandru Alley Ph.: 021-208-6030 Fax: 021-230-7620
Ireland 50-52, BuzeĹ&#x;ti St., 3rd floor Ph.: 021-310-2131 Fax: 021-311-2285
Norway 18, Atena St. Ph.: 021-306-9800 Fax: 021-306-9890
Israel 1, Dimitrie Cantemir Blvd. Ph.: 021-302-8500 Fax: 021-302-8555 Italy 9, Henri Coanda St. Ph.: 021-305-2100 Fax: 021-312-0422 Japan 4-8, N. Titulescu Blvd. Ph.: 021-319-1890/91 Fax: 021-319-1895
Hasemit Kingdom of Jordan 1, Dumbrava Rosie St. Ph.: 021-210-4705 Fax: 021-210-0320 Korea P.D.R. 6, Nordului Ave. Ph.: 021-232-1994 Fax: 021-232-1992 Kuwait 19A-19B, Louis Blank St. Ph.: 021-315-4444 Fax: 021-315-9992 Lebanon 16, Andrei Muresanu St. Ph.: 021-230-8175/76 Fax: 021-230-8179 Lithuania 51, Primaverii Blvd., 1st floor, Apt. 2, Ph.: 021-311-5997 Fax: 031-311-5919 Macedonia 144, Mihai Eminescu St. Ph.: 021-210-0880 Fax: 021-211-7295
Pakistan 22, Barbu-Stefanescu Delavrancea St. Ph.: 021-318-7873 Fax: 021-318-7874 Palestine 12, Eugen Lovinescu St. Ph.: 021-211-9422 Fax: 021-211-9424 Peru 10-12, Gh.Sontu. 3rd floor, Apt. 10 Ph.: 021-211-1816 Fax: 021-211-1818
Syria 47, Paris St. Ph.: 021-319-2467 Fax: 021-312-9554
Vietnam 35, C.A. Rosetti St. Ph.: 021-311-1604 Fax: 021-312-1626
Poland 23, Alexandru Alley Ph.: 021-308-2200 Fax: 021-230-7832 Portugal 55, Paris St. Ph.: 021-230-4136 Fax: 021-230-4117 Qatar 10A, Venezuela St. Ph.: 021-230-4741 Fax: 021-230-5446 Russia 6, Kiseleff Ave. Ph.: 021-222-3170 Fax: 021-222-9450 Saudi Arabia 6, Polona St. Ph.: 021-2121258/59 Fax: 021-210-7093
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fascinating chronicle 20 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
The natives of the Danube plains and the Carpathians Mountains were the Traciens, an Indo-European population. In the time of Caesar they ruled over southeastern Europe. According to Herodotus, the Dacian state was one of the most powerful of those times, and their armies were a threat to Rome.
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ut in 101-102 and later in 105-106, the Roman armies defeated the Dacian king Decebal and conquered the whole country. Dacia was so rich at this time that it was named the Roman province of Dacia Felix, or Happy Dacia. The gold discovered in the coffers of the Dacian king was so plentiful that it allowed the Roman emperor Trajan to suspend all taxes in Rome for a decade. The Romanian nation is a mixture of the original Dacian population and its Roman conquerors. A nation was born and eventually Christianised, speaking a form of the Latin language soon to evolve into Romanian. Long after Rome fell prey to the Christians in 453, but before a strong state was established, the inhabitants of what was to become Romania maintained the conviction that they were the “descendents of Rome and the defenders of the sole Latin-Christian culture in the East.” When the Roman Empire collapsed and Slavic and Oriental populations established themselves in the region, the inheritors of the Roman language and culture fiercely defended their identity as the former Dacia Felix province. For ten centuries and against all odds, they resisted the Goths, Visigoths, Avares, Huns and barbarian invaders, establishing a Romanian identity on the two pillars of resilience and memory.
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BASICS Photo: • Map of Bucharest 19th century – reconstitution
According to legend, Bucur, a shepherd whose name means “joy,” was the first to come to this area. Traders, dazed by his flute songs and made dizzy by the wine he brought from the Carpathian Mountains, gave Bucur’s name to the location where, as the stories say, they were first introduced. In the 15th century, Bucharest was only a small city, but it was the capital of Wallachia, a Romanian state at the time. It found great military leadership under the brave rule of Vlad, also known as Vlad the Impaler. Mehmet the Second, conqueror of Constantinople and ruler of the Ottoman Empire, defeated the Eastern Roman Empire, the Genovese fleet and the Pope, then turned his army of 200,000 to Europe. With the most formidable force in Europe and the greatest army of that time, Mehmet intended to conquer Romanian land before marching on toward Central Europe. On the eve of their arrival, even before they heard the defending army’s drums or the town church bells, a horrific scent assaulted the Turkish invaders. Their hearts nearly burst from their chests when they discovered that the scent was coming from a forest of impaled Turkish soldiers. In a primitive use of psychological warfare, the outnumbered defenders were mobile and struck at night, inspiring terror in a hitherto invincible army. Vlad the Impaler himself, dressed in Turkish attire, deceived Mehmet’s guards and audaciously killed the first sultan captain of the Turkish army.
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From the 15th to the 18th centuries, Romanian princes fought against Turkish armies and then sought refuge in the Transylvanian forests and castles when the pressure became too strong. In 1600 Michael the Brave first succeeded in uniting all Romanian-speaking provinces under one rule, but this only lasted for a short time. Bucharest, overexposed and close to the border, was burned to the ground several times. Battles alternated with periods of peace and diplomacy. Even though the country never became part of the Ottoman Empire as neighboring Hungary or Serbia did, it was forced to pay a heavy tribute in terms of money and reduced autonomy. Centuries went by before the Romanians shaped a state strong enough to become a player in the European power game. In 1812 Bucharest was the site of a Turkish-Russian treaty, putting an end to Russia’s exhausting battles with the Ottoman Empire. Russia’s army then rushed north to stop the advancing armies of general Napoleon at Berezina. Tudor Vladimirescu was a natural born rebel, courageous leader and skillful commander, but he was a poor diplomat. Vladimirescu defied the Turkish army and led a popular revolt in 1821, but he was assassinated by his allies, the Greeks, while fighting for independence. The first half of the 19th century is characterized by Balkan uprisings against the Ottoman Empire’s autocratic rule. In 1848, the year of European revolutions, both the Russian Imperial army and the Ottoman army crushed the Revolution in Bucharest, fearing it might lead to the creation of an independent and powerful Romanian state. In 1859, the Great European Powers reluctantly agreed to let the Romanian states of Moldova and Wallachia choose their own crown prince through a parliamentary vote. Both Romanian parliaments outsmarted the Great Powers by electing the same prince, Alexandru Ioan Cuza, and paved the way to national unity. In 1877, Russian troops encountered a difficult enemy in the strength of the Turkish army. When the fighting in Bulgaria became
more than they could handle, they called for help from the Romanian army. The ensuing victory led to the formal independence of a country now recognized by all European powers. In an ironic gesture of gratitude, the Russian Empire annexed part of the southern coastal province of Romania. In 1913 Bucharest was still the place to settle regional Balkan conflicts. Greece, Bulgaria, Turkey, Serbia and Macedonia agreed to a cease-fire in a Romanianarbitrated agreement. The country’s role in the peacemaking process ensured its dominance in the region for many years. Romania joined the Allies and fought against the Germans during World War I, and even though the German armies occupied Bucharest in 1916, the Romanian armies kept fighting. After losing one seventh of its pre-war population fighting on two fronts against three Empires, Romania finally attained its goal. The last Romanian province, Transylvania, was finally united with the rest of the country, and for the first time since 1600, Romanians could say, “Dacia Felix redivivus” (Dacia Felix lives again). From 1919 to 1939 the country experienced the happiest period of its existence, and Bucharest was now a great European city, widely recognized as a capital of fashion, good taste and pleasant living. Bucharest was known as the “Little Paris” of the East in the ‘30s. Direct flights connected the city with most European capitals, and cafes and art studios were booming. Bucharest was the place to be in Europe for cinema, fashion and diplomacy. French diplomat Paul Morand left the most vivid homage to the city in his 1930s bestseller “Bucharest.” He wrote, “Don’t you have humour, ruined nobles, beautiful women and taboo breaking habits?” he was asked hitherto. “Yes we do,” said the French diplomat, “But everything is more dramatic in Bucharest.” Unfortunately, this period of prosperity only lasted until 1940, at which time the country was again plunged into European conflict. Soviet Russia struck first, and the Red Army soon occupied the eastern Romanian province of Bessarabia. Shortly
after, Romania joined Germany on the eastern front and sought to liberate its territory. The war in the East proved disastrous: 100,000 Romanian soldiers perished at Stalingrad and at Caucasus. Bucharest was bombed by the American air force in 1944 and “liberated” by the Soviet Army the same year. At the last possible moment, Romania switched alliances and joined the war against Germany. This time Romanian soldiers fought all the way to Austria and Czechoslovakia, but the effort was not enough to save the country from becoming a Soviet puppet-state. Communists ruled Romania from 1947 to 1989. Only when Ceausescu, an obscure and modest communist leader, took power in 1965 did the country gradually start to recover a part of its independence. Backed by popular support, Ceausescu chased the proSoviet communist leaders from power and started to pursue his own agenda. He was a communist reformer during this time, from 1965 to 1971, but after a journey to China he adopted an increasingly dictatorial policy that emulated the Chinese revolution. The period from that point until 1989 was one of the darkest in the country’s history. It was only on December 22, 1989, that a popular revolt chased the dictator out of power. Freedom came at a heavy price for the residents of Bucharest: More than 900 people died fighting for freedom in the city. The country became a democracy in 1990, and several elections since then have established a balance of power.
Photo: • Romanian solddiers in WW I preparing their meal
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dual reality
Photos: • December 1989 in Bucharest Š Radu Sigheti/REUTERS
• The Parliament, the second largest building in the world
Originally, Bucharest was an economic capital, not a political one; thousands of merchants came here to exchange their goods. Items such as swords and guns from Transylvania, fish and oriental perfumes from the Black Sea ports, and wool, milk and honey from the Moldavian villages were among the most popular. Trade was also strong in the area of human resources: Against their will, hundreds of young lads, sons of local noblemen or princes, were sent to Istanbul, Warsaw or Budapest as human shields against the chance that their fathers might change the political course of the country. Sadly, thousands of serfs were condemned to
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barbaric labour in mines or on plantations. It became possible to distinguish as many races as corporations in the city: the Armenians traded gold, the Greeks public functions, the Italians fashionable goods, the Saxons produced and sold watches and weapons, the Russians brought furs and vodka, the Austrians negotiated glass and mirrors, and the French fuelled political activities and traded tobacco leaves. Starting with the 18th century, as a consequence of the decline of the Ottoman Empire, Bucharest gradually became more influenced by Western culture. European trading houses opened branches in Bucharest, and local products such as wool, honey and wheat were sold to the United Kingdom and France. Boyards (local nobles) gradually moved from their lands to settle in the city and progressively changed their manners and their culture. By the 19th century French had replaced Greek as the language of the elite. Two innate abilities have helped the people of Bucharest to elude a potentially calamitous fate, compensate for the gaps in their social institutions and continue the search for a better future. One is their creativity, the supreme expression of human intelligence. The other is a fierce commitment to adapt to changing circumstances, deceiving fate by savoring the present. A unique shrewdness, as likely to be used for good as for evil, was a providential resource used against wrongdoers from the very day of their arrival in Bucharest. In order to get rid of the thousands of criminals, beggars and thieves that had found refuge in the city, Vlad the Impaler invited them to a free banquet in his honor; once they arrived, the buildings were surrounded by troops and set on fire. And on the 22nd of December, 1989, faking enthusiasm for a communist meeting, tens of thousands of Bucharest residents gathered in what is now Revolutionary Square, booing Ceausescu and setting up barricades in the middle of the city. Perhaps the most vibrant Romanian talent is an inherited flexibility to adapt to any environment, easily learning how to make the
most out of every situation. Bucharest was not an industrial city until the mid-19th century, but it is one of the first European cities to use gas for public illumination. By the end of the First World War, while Europe was in ruins, faith in the never-ending technological progress gave the way to the roaring twenties. It was in Bucharest that Dadaism and modern art was born. Post-modernism and black humor were the weapons sharpened by Romanian artists in the thirties, long before a fascist or communist regime sought to capture people’s minds. The people of Bucharest have assimilated the customs and languages of Europe, making them their own, but they have never been able to shake an attachment to the past. They miss no opportunity to express their convictions by exalting their beliefs, exaggerating their defects, discussing the rules, challenging accepted answers and exhausting themselves in making permanent assumptions. They indulge themselves with the delusion that although Bucharest may not resemble the city of their dreams, one day reality will reflect their vision and the insights and wisdom of their hearts. These intersecting borders of history and modernity, of creativity and nostalgia, of autocracy and improvisation, have forged a dense, vibrant city where interpretation is the only measure of reality. The city’s banner should be Janus, the god with two faces: The dual realities joy and fear, jubilation of freedom and self-sufficiency, bitterness of poverty and exuberance of luxury all feature prominently in Bucharest’s history. This capital city has equal amounts of social rancor and historical amnesia in its soul. Oriental palaces alternate with communist dwellings, terraces on every corner blast music all night long, and many neighbourhoods indignantly refuse to emerge from the 19th century. Where else can a tourist see a Lamborghini and a sheep roaming the same streets? Where else are the rich so eager to measure their success by the number of friends they can treat? Where else do dogs sleep on the roofs of cars while police are busy debating the country’s future foreign policy at the crossroads?
The buildings and the people tell the story of a sentimental society where identity matters more than appearance, creativity overcomes prudence, and human feelings proceed over reason. Justice and impunity cohabit inside each Bucharest resident in the most arbitrary way. These are fanatical moralists, but they carry a sharp-witted lawyer in their souls, skilled at side-stepping laws without breaking them or breaking them without being caught. People in Bucharest adore their families and would ruin themselves to impress their guests. They are capable of the noblest acts, defying the Communist police with their bare hands, and the most despicable ones-neglecting to punish those responsible for the deaths of 1,000 Bucharest citizens in the 1989 revolution. Not because some of Bucharest is good and the rest is evil, but because it has shared the two extremes. Perhaps reflection would allow the conclusion that these are the remnants of an eternal war against adversity.
Photo: • The Revival Memorial – detail – a monument honoring the heroes of the Revolution
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BASICS
timeline B.C.
16th Century
19th Century
Human shelters dating from 5,000 B.C. has been discovered on Dambovita shore - oldest known evidence of inhabitants in the region. an shelters dating from 5000 BC discovered on Dambovita shore. Oldest known evidence of regional inhabitants.
• 1595: the town is burnt to the ground by the Turks. Mihai Viteazul, the Romanian king of Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldavia, moves the capital to Targoviste. rks. Mihai Viteazul, Romanian prince of Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldova, moves the capital to Targoviste.
• 1806 – 1812: Bucharest comes under Russian military administration and is split into five administrative sectors identifiable by colour. • 1812: Filantropia Hospital is built. Peace treaty is signed between Russia and the Ottoman Empire in Bucharest. • 1821: the revolution led by Tudor Vladimirescu reaches Bucharest, which is, again, nearly destroyed by Turks. But this is the end of Greek (Fanariots) rule in Wallachia. French becomes the language of the elite. • 1824: the main streets of Bucharest are paved. • 1829: Curierul Romanesc, the first regular Romanian newspaper, is published, followed by its literary supplement, Curierul de ambe sexe, in 1836. • 1834: The National Library, the Archeology and Natural Sciences Museums are built. • 1848: Bucharest is the centre of the Romanian Revolution. • January 24 1859 : Moldavia and Wallachia are reunited under the rule of Alexandru Ioan Cuza; the new state is called Romania. • 1859: first law school in Bucharest is established under the influence of the French Napoleonic code. • 1869: the first railway stations in Bucharest are built– Giurgiu and Filaret. • 1870: Gara de Nord railway station is built. Bucharest has four public baths and horsedrawn tramways are common in the city. • 1871: public light is provided by gas lamp. • 1873: Bucharest’s first modern water and sewage systems go into effect. • 1877: Romania becomes an independent state. • 1879: the Romanian Academic Schools become the Romanian Academy. • 1881: the National Bank of Romania is founded. • 1888: following the successful public campaign, “Give one Leu for the Ateneu,” the Romanian Athenaeum is built.
2nd Century • 106 AD: The Dacian kingdom falls to the Roman army. Rome claims Dacia-Minor as frontier provinces.
14th Century • 1367: first mention of Dambovita fort/ castle in the chronicle of Ioan de Kukulo.
15th Century • 1459: first mention of Bucharest fort found in the Slavonic letter sent by Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler) to local traders. • 1473: Stephen the Great, prince of Moldavia, Northeastern Romanian kingdom, chases the Turks from Bucharest. • 1492: the name Bucharest can be found on a map of the Danube lands made by Martin Behaim of Nuremberg. • Bucharest becomes the capital of Wallachia, the Southern Romanian kingdom.
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17th Century • 1678: the first book ever printed in Bucharest, entitled “The Book of Wisdom,” is published. • Romanian Academy Sfantul Sava is founded as the first University in Wallachia. • Mogosoaia Palace and Calea Victoriei are built. • Beginning of Greek (Fanariots) rule in Wallachia.
18th Century • 1708: Coltea Hospital is built. • 1715: Beginning of Greek (Fanariots) rule in Wallachia. Bucharest becomes a cosmopolitan town and Greek is the language of the elite. • 1779: the first public water well is built. Bucharest has around 70,000 inhabitants.
Photos: • The Independence War – “Attacking Smardan” by Nicolae Grigorescu • Sunday, on Calea Victorie (right)
timeline 20th Century • 1906: Bucharest has 300,000 inhabitants. • 1913: Balkan wars. The peace treaty signed in Bucharest and calms the region for many years. • 1916: Romania enters World War I alongside the Allies; the German army occupies the city. • 1918 – 1940: Bucharest receives the nickname “Little Paris.” • 1941: Bucharest comes under the control of a pro-German administration. • 1944: Bucharest is successively bombed by American, German and Russian planes. • 1944: the Red Army enters the city. • 1947: the Romanian King is forced into exile, and Romania is transformed into the communist Romanian Popular Republic. • 1983: Bucharest has 2 million inhabitants. Ceausescu begins construction on the People’s Palace, which will become the second largest building in the world. • 21 December 1989: the anticommunist revolution starts in Bucharest, and over 1,000 people die in the streets before it is successful. • 25 December 1989: Ceausescu and wife Elaine are executed by a firing squad, the execution being internationally broadcasted. • 1991: a new, democratic constitution is voted in a referendum. • 1999: Pope John Paul the Second visits Bucharest, marking the first time that a Pope has ever come to an Orthodox country.
21st Century • 2002: Romania is invited to join NATO. • 2003: Romania joins the USA and NATO in the war against terrorism in Afghanistan • 2003: major opinion difference between US and UK on one hand, and the EU countries and Russia on the other, regarding the war in Iraq. Romania supports the USA and the UK position. • 2004: the parliaments of the NATO states validate the decision to accept Romania as a NATO member. • 2004: Traian Basescu becomes the fourth president of Romania. After serving as the mayor of Bucharest from June 2000 until December 2004, Traian Basescu was elected President in the Romanian Presidential Elections of 2004 and inaugurated on December 20, 2004. • 2005: Romania signs the treaty of accession to the EU. • July 2005: The Romanian government put in practice (approved by the Parliament) the redenomination of the local Leu currency. Four zeros have been cut with the Leu 1,000,000 banknote being replaced with the Leu 100 banknote. • 2006: Declassification of the “Securitate”dossiers on politicians and clergymen. • 1st January 2007: Romania becomes a member of the EU. • April 2007: Basescu became the first president in Romania’s history to be officially suspended from office, but he was reinstated a month later in a public referendum by a 3–to–1 margin. • November 25, 2007: the first elections for the European Parliament • October 8, 2009: Herta Mueller, a Romanian-born author who was persecuted for her critical depictions of life behind the Iron Curtain, won the 2009 Nobel Prize for Literature. Member of Romania’s ethnic German minority, she was honored for work that “with the concentration of poetry and the frankness of prose, depicts the landscape of the dispossessed,” the Swedish Academy stated. • 2009: Traian Basescu is the current president of Romania. He is re-elected president for a second 5-year term. • 2012 local and general elections are taking place. • July 2012 The second unsuccessful atempt of suspending President Basescu from the office. • May 2014: European Parliament elections • December 2014: Presidential elections.
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BASICS
green oases
Despite first appearances, Bucharest is not only a city of concrete and brawling or speeding cars; you can find dozens of places hidden in its heart, where life seems to flow in a more natural rhythm. Such oases of peace can give us – provided we want it - a few moments of inner peace and respite from the crazy pace of the overcrowded city. Meteorologists used to say Romania is a country with a temperate climate. There used to be four seasons, none to harsh or extreme, a real joy to experience any time during the year, be it spring, summer, autumn or winter. 28 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
E
Photo: • Spring in Bordei Park
ach season came in many different colors and temperatures, sometimes cheekily surprising you. In recent years the seasons have tended to meld one with the other, mixing the climate more toward a cold-hot climate. Still, when the sun is up the city looks more beautiful and exciting, and Bucharesters are happier in a city that looks greener If you come out to walk a few steps along city streets, alongside the Bucharesters, you could try walking in Cismigiu Park and you will understand, once more perhaps, the amazing powers of transformation that nature has. Walking through the oldest public garden of the capital (17 hectares) you always discover the statues with their own histories, the children’s playgrounds, full of joyful kids, and along the walkways, the elderly occupying all the benches in a long line, see them perhaps reminiscing on the days of their youth. A place which is a bit more isolated, as if it was especially created for lovers is La Cetate (the Fortress), mostly a corner for retired people, but also for all who love board games and especially chess: the Corner of the Chess Players… As you continue your walk on the alleys bordered by trees, you pass near Eminescu’s spring, where people still come for water, and reach the main entrance of the garden from Elisabeta Boulevard, across from the City Hall of Bucharest (still in renovation) while on your left is another boulevard, Schitu Magureanu, bordered by Gheorghe Lazar University, an old, high level school in the city. Not far from the school stands the new bust of Pope John Paul the Second on high pedestal, just in front of the office of the Apostolic Nuncio in Romania. The sun is mild and friendly and the park it’s beautiful… In the age of Alexandru Ipsilanti, it was an enormous swamp, called the Moor of Dura the Merchant. The current name of the park was the name of the head of construction – Cismigiu, who lived near by. The construction was started in 1847, supervised by the Viennese landscaper Carl Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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BASICS Photo: • Cismigiu Park, La Cetate
F.W. Meyer, and the official opening took place in 1854. The swamp was transformed into a lake, in the middle of which there is a beautiful spring. Along the alleys, around the lake by more than 30,000 trees were planted, ranging from native species (maple, linden tree, fir, elm), but including some more rare species (red chestnut, sycamore tree). Small caves and bridges over the lake’s channels were also built. At the end of the 19th century, one of the first newspaper kiosks in Bucharest was set at the main entrance of Cismigiu. The restored kiosk may still be admired today,. The Monte Carlo a traditional Romanian restaurant built by the architect Ion Mincu is a special attraction in Cismigiu. Today, the restaurant with its terrace near the lake continues to attract many people offering the season’s menu. On the side facing Schitu Magureanu Boulevard a rotunda was set up, in the middle of a green space, which can still be admired today: the Roman Rondo. Officially opened in 1943, the rotunda contains stone handcarved busts on high pedestals, rendering the faces of famous figures of Romanian culture:
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Mihai Eminescu, I.L. Caragiale, George Cosbuc, Ion Creanga, B.P. Hasdeu, Nicolae Balcescu, Vasile Alecsandri. Along the alleys you see more statues, of Sister Smara, George Panu, the Monument of French Heroes, Sissi Stefanidi’s Spring – a mother in deep suffering after the death of her daughter pours water with a mug… The pigeons also seem to have a rendezvous in the park. They fly in hundreds over the alleys and land to peck on the seeds or bread pieces spread by the people. You will always be surprised by all the new information you get after a walk in the alleys of this green corner of Bucharest. On the lake, delicate swans ignore you in their splendor… This fragment of life reveals the eternity of this central placed park, where everybody can feel good. You can roller skate, skateboard, relax, even go sleep on a bank of the lake sometimes you can have your future told, from tickets extracted from a box by a very colourful parrot. Cismigiu is never quite deserted. The first snowflakes, the colours of autumn, the frost of winter and, last but not the least, the summer sun, always bring people to the alleys of this immortal garden,
country. Wood churches, wind- and watermills, inns, barns. Artisans demonstrate various machines for processing wool, spinning it into yarn, and eventually weaving it into fabric. There are hand presses for grapes, an oil press, as well as handicraft workshops, and more than 80,000 pieces of folkloric art, furniture, straw figures, carpets, vases, and icons.… A place like the Village Museum is quite unusual. Here you are offered the chance to make a foray into the middle of rural Romanian civilization and culture, without leaving Bucharest. This Romanian village in miniature, on an area of 15 hectares, is probably the most blessed oasis of peace in the middle of so crowded a city. This ethnographic open air museum includes approximately 300 buildings from all regions of the country, dating from the XVIIXX centuries. They are not reproductions of some original model, they all are authentic.
Photos: • Cismigiu Park, Eminescu Spring • Cismigiu Park in May
to visit it over and over again. Another one of the oldest and most beautiful parks of Bucharest, is Herastrau, the largest park and garden of the Capital. Located in the north of the city, with an area of 110 hectares (270 acres), before 1930 much of the area was a marsh which would be drained during 19301935. Also called Carol II Park, the Herastrau was a promenade place even in the eighteenth century. Princes and their wives used to walk, with ladies of the Court, or ride on a large boat on the lake, accompanied by music. Old Herastrau had two theaters, one for adults and one for children, two exhibition halls, libraries, a reading and chess corner and a landing dock for boats. For flower lovers in every season the park turns into a paradise. Maple, poplar, willow, linden and ash, the Expoflora area… are always full of color, the colours of the season. Over 50 species of birds live in the garden and delight in color and song. Herastrau it’s also known for the Village Museum, which includes a great variety of country houses authentic, real buildings moved here to demonstrate the different architectural styles in various region of the
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BASICS Photo: • The Village Museum Herastrau Park
After being acquired from peasants in the villages concerned, they were dismantled piece by piece, transported to Bucharest, and then reassembled in the museum. Close to the museum, the Elizabeth Palace, the actual residence of the former king of Romania, is another key point with its elegance and grave architecture. The Museum of old western art, by engineer Dumitru Minovici, on the north side of Herastrau Park, is set in a remarkable house, built in an English Gothic style typical of the Tudor and Plantagenet era, built especially for this purpose. The building with large and stained glass windows of the XV-XVII centuries presents furniture in the neoclassic style, chairs with Aubusson tapestry, furniture in the Renaissance style, a Louis XV desk, German tin vessels from the XVII century, carpets and goblins (XV-XVII), paintings by artists from German and Italian schools, china, Gothic sculptures in wood, ceramics from Meissen and Delft (the XVIIXVIII), engravings from the XVI century, rare
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editions of authors from the XVIII-XX. Behind the L-shaped building, its sides guarded by Gothic towers, lies an Italian-Style Park arranged, around a small pond. But, if the children are with you, do not leave the park so quickly, you’ll miss the fun park, full of life and youth. A rollercoaster, cars, horses, chains, swans, carting, all are there to delight little ones, and young at heart grownups. Are you an enthusiast of skateboarding? Do you like roller bike lanes? Herastrau has a special corner set up for that. For color and scents, you should also meander through the Japanese Garden with its miniature bridges over water, stones arranged in all kinds shapes, rustic wooden benches. Statues of important people of national and international culture add to the appeal of the park. Another garden that enhances the artistic aspect of the park is the corner for the painting, a special place where you will always find a painting or drawing exhibition. The only sailing club in Bucharest,
and the most active of the country, is still here – Yacht Club Sportul Studentesc, and what surpasses all existing beauty here is a boat ride. During autumn, on any warmer day, people of all ages come to walk in the sun. The terraces and restaurants along the waterfront are full. Do you still need a reason to go to this park? If the above did not convince you, just walk up there: the romantic air, the green, so much even now, trees like in storybooks, skating and the Village Museum, a beautiful lake and a walk around, or the amusement park… Even in the evening the park is beautiful with its lights. At late hours you find amateur and professional rollerskaters and bicyclists as well as joggers. So yes, it’s worth a visit, and more! Leaving the lake and the park take a walk down Kiseleff, a wide boulevard which links Piata Presei Libere to Piata Victoriei. Most often it is called, simply, “The road” (La Sosea). It was always the most popular boulevard of the city for walks. In the nineteenth century, people used to come here and promenade in their carriages. Here is where the famous battles with flowers used to be organized. There are special lanes and routes for cyclists, so it is probably the best place in Bucharest to go for a bike ride. Since the summer of 2008, when the first centre to
rent bicycles was inaugurated, Bucharest is in line with the world in this regard. You don’t have to leave Bucharest to get into the heart of nature. Beside the two important parks, in fact, each sector of Bucharest has its big green area, and smaller green corners, increasingly every year. Like Lacul Morii (the Mill’s Lake), a huge artificial lake was built in order to prevent flooding by the Dambovita River as it passes through the city north-west. The 246 hectare (610 acres) reservoir was built during the communist period (together with river rectification) and changed the landscape. The lake has an island in the middle, with just some tourist potential for the moment. The area is still very impressive and worth a visit: as from here you can see some of the most wonderful sunsets in Bucharest. The Dambovita river crosses the city from the northwest to the southeast. Although not completely rehabilitated and far from being spectacular, in some sections, you will find waste lands, abandoned factories, old communist blocks, buildings in ruins, student dormitories with a sad air and a few modern glass office buildings on its banks, the course of the Dambovita is part of the charm of the Capital. Then there is the chain of lakes along the edge of town, in the north, which were formed by the Colentina River, a 33 km long group, starting with Mogosoaia,
Photo: • The Alley with Roses - Herastrau Park
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BASICS Photo: • The Dambovita River at Grozavesti
Straulesti, Baneasa, Herastrau, Floreasca, Tei, Plumbuita, Fundeni, Pantelimon, Grivita, and Cernica lake. Just half an hour drive from the Capital, other special places await you… Bucharest is surrounded by a belt of forests, the remains of the ancient Vlasiei Woods – today the Baneasa, Cernica, Snagov, Caldarusani, Mogosoaia, Pustnicul, Andronache, Tunari, and Raioasa forests. These forests are the lungs of the Capital and the favourite destinations of Bucharesters during summer weekends. Besides the fact that they offer many opportunities for leisure activities, almost everyone of these places hides, away from the urban chaos, a holy place of worship - the most appropriate place for a moment of tranquility and, of course, of introspection. The Baneasa forest, only 10 km north of the Capital, is known for its Zoo (on 6 hectares) opened in 1959. Baneasa is home for reptiles, exotic fish, birds, and indigenous mammals as well as some from exotic jungles. Here you can see pumas, tigers, jaguars, llamas, lynx, Alaskan wolves, Welsh and Shetland ponies, antelopes, flamingos, and geese from the Nile. There are also pony rides for the children on carousels and rides in carriages. The Baneasa area, located between the City Center and the International Airport has benefited from a construction boom of
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housing, office space and a major shopping center. Lake Snagov (on 576 hectares), 35 km north of Bucharest, is one of the largest river firths in the Romanian Plain, with a length of 16.5 kilometers. It is a favourite for lovers of water sports. The forest surrounding Lake Snagov, a nature preserve, includes many species of oaks, ash and monumental lime trees, some over 30 m high. Snagov Park, on the western bank of the lake, is a mini-resort, with paved alleys, shaded places to stop, play areas for children, sports fields, restaurants, picnic areas and handicraft shops. The Snagov pool has a large beach with fine sand, grassy areas shaded by trees, there are cabins and changing rooms, showers, a pier where you can rent rowboats, motor boats, hydrobicycles and water-skis. Smaller private boats and cruise barges dock at the pier. You can go diving in Lake Snagov, or you can ride around it by bicycle. The lake has a special charm at the end of the summer, when the acclimatized Indian water lilies blossom. On an island in the northern area of the lake, accessible only by boat, rises Snagov church, part of an ancient monastery, founded in the XIV century, restored by Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impeller) – the model for the Dracula myth. It was considered one of the largest and most beautiful monasteries during the period of Tepes. There still are various stories about the riches that it might conceal in its maze of basements. Tepes lived in hiding in the monastery for a time. It is said that there was a tunnel leading from the island to the lakeshore, which was used by Tepes for secret excursions, but it has not yet been found. It is also said that after battles with the Turks in 1476, after his head was cut off and sent to Constantinople, the body of Vlad Tepes was secretly buried near the monastery which was fortified by defensive walls at the time. For a few Lei, you can hire a row boat, which will take you the few meters across to the monastery, where the resident priest will welcome you, and give you a short tour. About 45 km north-east of Bucharest is Caldarusani Lake, surrounded by woods. Here hunting parties for rabbits and pheasants are
organized. The lake waters reflect another historic building, the Caldarusani Monastery, founded between 1637-1638. Lake Cernica (on 341 hectares), 14 km east of Bucharest, is covered by floating reed islets on its southern area, and is also a nature preserve. Cernica Stirbei, High Steward of Mihai Viteazu, founded a monastery on the banks of Lake Cernica. The monastic complex includes: the Church of St. Nicholas on one shore of the lake, built in 1815, and St. George Church (1831-1842).on the other. The Monastery Village of Pasarea monastic complex, which also includes other houses with traditional architecture, surrounded by flower gardens, is another small paradise near the capital. It lies on the shores of Lake Pustnicu in Pustnicu Forest, 29 km east of the city. Back in town, where else can you turn to escape from the city turmoil? Although on a plateau, Bucharest is strewn with many small hills or mounds: the Mitropoliei Hills (85 meters high), Radu Voda (75 meters), Bucur, Filaret, Cotroceni, Vacaresti. Even in front of the Royal Court, there is such a small hill, which was once covered with vineyards. Uranus hill used to be the highest place of Bucharest. Today, after the communist systematization, designing Unirea Boulevard and constructing tall apartment buildings along it up to the Casa Poporului – the House of the People (now Parliament Palace), the appearance of the area has radically changed and the hill has almost disappeared among the concrete buildings, still this once green hill is a landmark in the landscape of Bucharest, being kind of religious centre of the city. At its highest point lies the Patriarchate Church (1668), and administrative offices of the Romanian Orthodox Church , a place which always seems at peace. On major holidays - especially the night of Resurrection, at Easter – the hill is filled with thousands of the faithful, who come to attend the service and leave for home with lit candles. The steep paved road leading up to the top is bordered by beautiful old villas. Sit down to rest on one of the benches which can be found every few meters alongside
the road, and look down on the crowded centre of the city, which seems so far away, although it is really just a few short steps. Near Brancoveanu’s Tower you enter the Patriarchate Church, where there is the silver scarape with relics of St. Dimitrie Basarabov, the spiritual patron of Bucharest. There is another hill (mound) near the banks of the Dambovita, this one is harder to find, because it is a hidden street - Radu Voda. On this summit is perched the Bucur church, a simple white building, reminiscent of countryside architecture. To get to it you have to climb a stone staircase starting from the street. It is considered the oldest church in Bucharest, dedicated to the Shepherd Bucur, the legendary founder of Bucharest. The church is in a picturesque location, offering another view of the Dambovita; though at the base of the hill the avenue is full of traffic and street life, this quiet isolated church is far from the City fuss. In the courtyard, filled with lush vegetation and rose bushes are a few benches for visitors who may want to rest and meditate a while. We hope you have a better idea about Green Bucharest and its true oases of peace. You may want to put down this book and go for a real walk!
Photo: • The shepherd Bucur Church
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BUSINESS
investment Opportunities Under the New PPP Legislation
Photo: CEC Bank. estabilished in 1864
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The Romanian legal framework applicable to PPP’s (public – private partnerships) has had a complex evolution. If we are to refer only to the last years, we can definitely say that PPP legislation has had a rough ride. Following the debacle of Law no. 178/2010 regarding public-private partnerships, a piece of legislation that has seen little to no practical implementation (perhaps also due to the difficulties generated by the economic context at the time of its enactment), the Romanian authorities decided to breathe new life into the respective legislation, seen as a potential instrument for attracting much needed investments.
A
s such, at the initiative of the Romanian government, a new law has been drafted and submitted, for consultation, to the European Commission. The feed-back received outlined several areas which needed improvement and therefore the initial version has been significantly amended and subsequently submitted to the Romanian Parliament for approval. Once the legislative process in the Parliament had been concluded, it seemed that the law was close to becoming operational. Nevertheless, in January 2014 President Traian Basescu has made use of its constitutional rights and has sent the law back to the Parliament, requesting that it be reexamined, due to certain provisions (under which the public partner in a public-private partnership could unilaterally terminate the public-private partnership agreement for exceptional grounds justified by national or local interest) which in the President’s view threatened the predictability of the legal regime applicable to public-private partnerships. In February 2014, further to the President’s request for its re-examination, the law has been re-approved by the Romanian Senate and has been sent to the Romanian Chamber of Deputies, which has final approval authority. The below comments refer to this last version, as approved by the Romanian Senate. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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BUSINESS
1. Areas in which public-private partnerships may be used The law indicates that the subject matter of a public-private partnership may be the creation or, as the case may be, the rehabilitation and/or extension of a public good or of goods assigned for the performance of a public service and/or for the operation of a public service. The law also defines the situations where a public partner may apply its provisions for the implementation of a project, i.e. if the project’s feasibility study demonstrates, among others, that all of or the majority of the income to be obtained by the project company from using the good/goods or from operating the public service subject matter of the project is generated by payments made by the public partner or by other public entities for the benefit of the public partner. Conversely, the public-private partnership law does not apply to the conclusion and performance of agreements corresponding to projects where all of or the majority of the income is obtained from tariffs collected from users of the good/ goods or of the public service subject matter of the project.
2. Mechanism of public-private partnerships According to the law, the following elements characterize the mechanism of public-private partnerships:
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• cooperation between the public partner and the private partner for the implementation of a public project; • the relatively long period for the performance of the contract relationship, allowing the private partner to recover the investments and to make a reasonable profit; • financing of the project, mainly from private funds and, as the case may be, by pooling private and public funds; • fulfillment of the purpose pursued by the public partner and by the private partner; • distribution of the risks between the public partner and the private partner, depending upon the capability of each contracting party to evaluate, manage and control a certain risk. These mechanisms are to be detailed under the methodology of the law. Public-private partnerships may be established as contractual public-private partnerships, where the public-private partnership agreement is concluded between the public partner, the private partner and the project company (the company created in order to implement the project), the project company being fully owned by the private company or as institutional publicprivate partnerships, where the publicprivate partnership agreement is concluded between the public partner and the private partner and where a new company, acting as project company, is created and becomes, subsequent to its registration with the company registry, party to the public-private partnership agreement. The law also establishes the requirements
that the project feasibility study has to fulfill. Among others, the feasibility study has to examine and to determine the ability of the project to be financed as a public-private partnership. This condition is deemed to be fulfilled if the technical, financial and legal structure of the project allows, under market conditions, the project to receive credits and/or other financial resources, in order to ensure the financing of the project for its entire life span.
3. Financing of public-private partnerships One of the main areas of interest for a potential investor is the section of the publicprivate partnership law dealing with the financing of a public-private project. In this respect, the law stipulates that financing of investments in a public-private partnership project may come either fully from funds provided by the private partner or from funds provided by the private partner together with the public partner. The law indicates that the public partner may contribute to the financing of the investments with funds coming exclusively from external post-joining non-reimbursable funds and from the national contribution corresponding to these, as under the conditions established under EU legislation. The public partner may contribute to the performance of the public-private partnership project by one or several means, as indicated below: • creating certain rights in favor of the
project company or in favor of the private partner; • cash contributions to the share capital of the project company; • undertaking payment obligations towards the private partner or the project company; • granting security interests to the credit or financial institutions financing the publicprivate partnership project. Under the public-private partnership agreement, the public partner may grant, to the project company, the right to collect and use for the implementation of the project tariffs from the users of the good/goods or of the public service subject matter of the project. This income is to be supplemented with the payment obligations of the public partner towards the project company or towards the private partner, as the case may be, according to the provisions of the publicprivate partnership agreement. The private partner or, as the case may be, the project company, may create security interests with respect to the receivables and rights held under the public-private partnership agreement, exclusively in favor of the credit or financial institutions financing the public-private partnership project and only for the duration of the public-private partnership agreement. Also, the private partner may create security interests over the shares held in the project company, again exclusively in favor of the credit or financial institutions financing the public-private partnership project and only for the duration of the public-private partnership agreement.
LUCIAN NEDRITA - attorney at law
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renewable energy legal framework present and perspectives
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With production levels of renewable energy reaching a record level at the end of 2013 and registering an impressive year to year increase as against 2012 (according to the data made available by the Romanian National Regulatory Authority for Energy), Romania appears to be one of the most active spots on the map in the field of renewable energy.
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ne of the main incentives responsible for this result is the subsidy received by renewable energy producers, as “green certificates�. Since the subsidy mechanism established by the Romanian Government appeared to be among the most generous in the EU, there is little wonder that the number of renewable energy projects exploded and renewable energy became one of the hottest investment opportunities. Thus, under the respective system, wind energy producers received two green certificates for each MW/h delivered to the power grid, three green certificates were awarded for energy produced by new micro hydro-power plants, while photovoltaic energy producers received six green certificates. One of the main reasons for adopting such generous measures is Romania’s effort, as part of the EU effort, to increase the share that energy produced from renewable sources holds in overall energy output. This effort meant that Romania undertook a very ambitious ambitious goal, i.e. to have 24% of its energy consumption coming from renewable sources by 2020. Of course, with conditions in other economic areas being far from perfect, an additional motivator was the need to find a new, attractive destination for foreign investment, the evolution of which registered a marked decline since the onset of the financial crisis. Nevertheless, the cost of maintaining these subsidy, born by all consumers, was deemed to be too high. The estimated continuing increase of renewable energy projects would have meant a corresponding increase in these costs, a decision which the Romanian Government was apparently not ready to go through with. As a result, in mid 2013 the Romanian Government decided to slash incentives granted to renewable energy producers. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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1. Changes in the subsidy system Under Government Emergency Ordinance 57/2013, which amended and supplemented Law no. 220/2008 regarding the system for promoting production of energy from renewable sources, for the period between July 1st 2013 and March 31st 2017, the awarding of a part of the green certificates to which renewable energy producers were originally entitled is temporarily delayed. Thus, under the new rules: • wind energy producers would receive only one of the two green certificates they had previously received for each MW/h delivered to the power grid; • for energy produced by new micro hydropower plants only two green certificates would be granted, as against the three certificates previously granted for each MW/h delivered to the power grid; • in the case of photovoltaic energy producers, they would receive only four green certificates for each MW/h delivered to the power grid, instead of the previous six certificates. We would like to underline that these changes represent a temporary delay in the awarding of green certificates. These delays are to be recovered, this fact being clearly stated under Government Emergency Ordinance 57/2013. Thus, the respective piece of legislation indicates that green certificates delayed as indicated above would be recovered starting with (i) April 1st 2017, for those corresponding to renewable energy produced new micro
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hydro-power plants and by photovoltaic power plants and (ii) January 1st 2018 for those corresponding to renewable energy produced by wind energy producers, with the recovery process to be scheduled until as late as December 31st 2020. In December 2013, the Romanian Government enacted additional regulations regarding the renewable energy legal framework, under Government Decision no. 994/2013, which establishes the number of green certificates to be received by power plants, held by renewable energy producers, which are accredited by the National Regulatory Authority for Energy for applying the green certificates promoting system after January 1st 2014. Under the respective Government Decision, the number of green certificates to be granted is reduced as follows • for wind energy producers, the number of green certificates would be reduced by 0.5 green certificates, until 2017 and by 0.25% as of 2018 (for each MW/h delivered to the power grid); • for energy produced by new micro hydro-power plants, the number of green certificates would be reduced by 0.7 green certificates (for each MW/h delivered to the power grid); • for photovoltaic energy producers, the number of green certificates would be reduced by 3 green certificates;
2. Impact of the changes This shift in the policy of the Romanian Government regarding renewable energy is likely to cause certain changes on the
Romanian renewable energy market and would clearly adversely affect investments in this area. As a matter of fact, as significant as the financial impact of the changes may be, the complaints of investors in this field would most likely be related more to the lack of predictability of the legal regime applicable to such investments. Of course, in case of projects for which the financing conditions are very tight, these changes could result in a worsening of their financial position and potentially to difficulties in the reimbursement of loans taken out in order to finance the project. Nevertheless, it could be argued that this could also have a positive effect, whereby the market would probably see the decrease in the number of “speculative� investment projects, which would lead to a more mature market. Also, Romania would be forced to find other competitive edges in order to maintain a reasonable, if not similar level of investment in this area. Provided that Romanian authorities acknowledge this need, the changes operated last year could prove beneficial in the long run. Finally, as unpleasant the change might be to investors in the renewable energy sector, it is undeniable that other economic actors, as well as consumers, would welcome a potential reduction in the cost of energy, which the respective measure could generate.
In case of businesses, others than renewable energy production, such a potential price reduction could even be seen as an incentive.
3. Reasons to invest even after the reduction of green certificates quota One of the main reasons to be considered is the fact that despite the significant reductions in the number of green certificates granted as a part of the subsidy system, an investment in the Romanian renewable energy market appears to remain still profitable. Also, the Romanian natural habitat continues to present the same attributes that rendered it attractive to investments in this area and it is clear that improvements to the infrastructure in general and to grid infrastructure in particular, although sometimes slow and hesitant, represent an advantage for future investors. Finally, as it is hoped that the Romanian economy would continue to grow, it is clear that local energy needs and demands would increase. While resources for conventional energy production are not yet depleted, it is clear that renewable energy will play an increasing role in meeting these future energy demands.
LUCIAN NEDRITA - attorney at law
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business connections NATIONAL & LOCAL INSTITUTIONS Presidency of Romania: Cotroceni Palace, 1-3, Geniului St. Ph.: 021-410-0581; Fax: 021-410-3858; www.presidency.ro Chamber of Deputies: Parliament’s Palace, 2-4, Izvor St. Ph.: 021-316-0300, 021-414-1111; www.cdep.ro Senate of Romania: Parliament’s Palace, 1-3, 13 Septembrie Ave. Ph.: 021- 316-0300, 021-414-1111; Fax: 021- 315-8942; www.senat.ro Government of Romania: 1, Victoriei Sq. Ph.: 021-314-3400; 021-313-1564; www.gov.ro Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development: 2-4, Carol I Blvd. Ph.: 021-307-2300. www.madr.ro Ministry of Information Society: 14, Libertatii Blvd. Ph.: 021-311-4119. www.mcsi.ro Ministry of Economy, Energy, Tourism & Business: 152, Calea Victoriei. Ph.: 021-202-5426. www.minind.ro Ministry of Foreign Affairs: 31, Alexandru Alley. Ph.: 021-319-2108/25. www.mae.ro Ministry of Public Finance & Budget: 17, Apolodor St. Ph.: 021-319-9759; 021-226-1110. www.mfinante.gov.ro Ministry of Justice: 17, Apolodor St. Ph.: 037-204-1999. www.just.ro Ministry of Labor, Family, Social Protection and Elderly: 2-4, Dem I. Dobrescu St. Ph.: 021-313-6267. www.mmuncii.ro Ministry of National Defense: 110, Izvor St. Ph.: 021-319-5660, 021-319-5864. www.mapn.ro Ministry of Transport: 38, Dinicu Golescu Blvd. Ph.: 021-319-6124. www.mt.ro
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Ministry of Interior Affairs: 1A, Revolutiei Sq. Ph.: 021-303-70-80. www.mai.gov.ro Ministry of Regional Development : 17, Apolodor St. Ph.: 037-211-1409/43. www.mdre.ro Ministry of Education, Research, Youth and Sports: 28-30, Gen. Berthelot St. Ph.: 021-405-6200/6300. www.edu.ro Ministry of Health: 1-3, Cristian Popisteanu Entr. Ph.: 021-307-2500/2600. www.ms.gov.ro Ministry of Environment and Climate Changes: 12, Libertatii Blvd. Ph.: 021-408-9500/9613. www.mmediu.ro Ministry of Culture: 22, Unirii Blvd. Ph.: 021-222-8291. www.cultura.ro The Prefect’s Office: 1, Piata Presei Libere, B building, Ph.: 021-312-6525 www. prefecturabucuresti.ro City Hall: 24, Regina Elisabeta Blvd., temporary moved to 291-293, Splaiul Independentei Ph.: 021-305-5500/50/55; www.pmb.ro SECTOR 1: 9-13, Bucuresti-Ploiesti Ave. Ph.: 021-319-1013/14/15/16/17; Fax: 021-319-1006; www.primariasector1.ro; SECTOR 2: 11-13, Chiristigilor St. Ph.: 021-209-6000. Fax: 021-209-6282; www.ps2.ro; SECTOR 3: 2-4, Parfumului St. Ph.: 021-318-0323/29; Fax: 021-318-0304 www.sector3primarie.ro; SECTOR 4: 6-16, George Cosbuc Blvd. Ph.: 021-335-9230; www.ps4.ro SECTOR 5: 29-31, Regina Elisabeta Blvd. Ph.: 021-314-4680/4318; www.sector5.ro: SECTOR 6: 147-149, Calea Plevnei; Ph.: 037-620-4319; Fax: 037-620-4446; www.primarie6.ro
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National Agencies Bucharest Office Of Trade Registery: 1, Sectorului Entr. Ph.: 021-316-0828; Fax: 021-316-0825 www.onrc.ro Competition Council: 1, Presei Libere Sq. Ph.: 021-405-4429; Fax: 021-405-4402; www.consiliuconcurentei.ro National Association of Travel Agencies In Romania - ANAT: 59, Horia Macelariu St. 4th floor, Apt. 401 Ph.: 021-321-1908, 021-323-0855, 031-106-9810; Fax: 021-323-6843; www.anat.ro National Trade Registery Office: 74A, Unirii Blvd. Ph.: 021-316-0804; Fax: 021-316-0803/29; www.onrc.ro Infrastructure Projects and Foreign Investments Department: 17, Apolodor St, 6th floor. Ph.: 021-318-5052, Fax: 021-316-3158, www.dpiis.ro Romanian Chamber of commerce: 2, Octavian Goga Blvd., Ph.: 021-319-0114/18; www.ccir.ro
Photo: Romanian Chamber of Commerce
International organizations Delegation Of The European Union: 31, Vasile Lascar St. Ph.: 021-203-5400; Fax: 021-230-2463, www.ec.europa.eu European Bank For Reconstruction EBRD: Metropolis Center, 56-60, Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd. Ph.: 021-202-7100; Fax: 021-202-7110; www.ebrd.com International Monetary Fund: 7, Halelor St., 2nd floor Ph.: 021-311-5833; 031-805-7040; Fax: 021-318-1410 www.fmi.ro Unicef: 48A, Primaverii Blvd. Ph.: 021-201-7872; Fax: 021-317-5255. www.unicef.ro United Nations Information Centre: UN House, 48A Primaverii Blvd. Fax: 021-201-7828; www.un.ro World Bank: 31, Vasile Lascar St. Ph.: 021-201-0311; Fax: 021-201-0338; www.worldbank.org.ro
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Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Blom Bank France: 66, Unirii Blvd, Bl.K3 Ph: 021-302-7201/6 www.blom.com.lb BRD - Groupe Societe Generale: 1-7, Ion Mihalache Blvd. Ph.: 0800-803-803; www.brd.ro CEC Bank: 11-13, Calea Victoriei Ph.: 021-311-1119; 0800-800-848; www.cec.ro Citibank Romania: 145, Calea Victoriei Ph.: 021-203-5550; www.citybank.ro Credit Europe Bank: 26Z, Timisoara Blvd. Ph.: 021-406-4000 www.crediteurope.ro EXIMBANK RomaNIA: 6A, Barbu Stefanescu Delavrancea St., Ph: 021-405-3096; Fax: 021-405-3388 www.eximbank.ro Garanti Bank: 5, Fabrica de Glucoza Ave., Novo Park 3 Business Center, F Building, Ph.: 021-208-9260; www.garantibank.ro Ing Bank: 48, Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd. Ph.: 021-222-1600; www.ing.ro Intesa Sanpaolo Bank: Art Business Center, 85A, Nicolae Caramfil St. , 4th floor, Ph: 0800-800-888; Fax: 021-405-3606 www.intesasanpaolobank.ro
Banks Alpha Bank: Neocity Tower. 237 B, Calea Dorobantilor, 3rd-9th floors; Ph.: 021-209-2100; www.alphabank.ro ATE Bank Romania: 24, Calea Grivitei Ph: 021-303-0700 www.ate.bank.ro Bancpost: 6A, Dimitrie. Pompeiu Blvd. Ph.: 0800-110-200 www.bankpost.ro Banca Comerciala Romana: 5, Regina Elisabeta Blvd. Ph.: 0801-0801-227; www.bcr.ro Banca Italo Romena: 2-4, Gara Herastrau St., Ph.: 021-232-0712/26; www.italo+romena.ro Banca Romaneasca: 3, George Constantinescu St., Ph: 021-304-8136; Fax: 021-304-8282 www.banca-romaneasca.ro Bank of Cyprus: 187 B, Calea Dorobantilor Ph: Ph: 0800-877-777 www.bankofcyprus.ro Bank Leumi Romania: 45, Aviatorilor Blvd Ph: 021-206-7053 www.leumi.ro
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Libra Bank: 4-6, Semilunei St. Ph.: 021-208-8000; www.librabank.ro Marfin Bank Romania: 90-92, E. Porumbaru St. Ph: 021-206-4257; 021-206-4353; Fax: 021-206-4282; www.marfinbank.ro Otp Bank Romania: 66-68, Buzesti St. Ph.: 021-307-5700; Fax: 021- 308-5180 www.otpbank.ro Piraeus Bank Romania: 29-31, N. Titulescu Ave., Ph.: 021-303-6969 ; 0800-801-802; www.piraeusbank.ro Raiffeisen Bank: Sky Tower, 246C, Floreasca Ave. , Ph: 021-306-3002; 0800-802-0202; www.raiffeisen.ro Romanian International Bank: 67, Unirii Blvd, Bl. G2A, Tronson 1 & 2 Ph: 021-318-9515; www.roib.ro Royal Bank Of Scotland: Lakeview Building, 301-311, Barbu Vacarescu St., 1st floor, Ph: 021-202-0400; www.rbs.ro Unicredit Tiriac Bank: 1F, Expozitiei Blvd, Ph: 021-200-2020; www.unicredit-tiriac.ro Volksbank Romania: 42, Pipera Ave., 3-8th and 10th floor Ph.: 0800-672-222; www.volksbank.ro
EximBank has been active on the Romanian financial market for more than 20 years. It started as a state owned export agency aimed at financing the activity of national companies, but over the years its objective changed, to became an institution exclusively focused on corporate financing. The bank combines the features of a commercial bank while functioning under the state’s name and account and has a threefold portfolio consisting of financing, guarantees and insurance products that address the needs of any type of company. Traian HALALAI President of EximBank
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ximBank has a Managing Board whose President since November 2012 is Mr. Traian Halalai (photo). Mr. Halalai has a wide experience in banking, having held various positions in the Managing Boards of different Romanian banks during the last 15 years. The bank targets small and medium sized enterprises with high development potential as well as exporting companies, public local authorities and big companies. It has a network of 16 units, covering the main development regions in Romania. The business model implemented by the bank focuses on both continuous improvement of the quality of its service and on financing the national economy by increasing the financing activity.
Financing The bank’s products finance the current activity of companies, their investment projects or export activity. Also, EximBank is actively involved in the Romanian state aid schemes meant to support the SMEs development, the priority domains set by the Government (infrastructure, public utilities, regional development, environmental protection, and
human resources development) as well as the companies’ need for working capital. EximBank also offers pre-financing and co-financing packages as well as letters of comfort to clients working with European funded projects.
Guarantees EximBank facilitates companies’ access to financing solutions by completing the necessary guarantees.
Insurance EximBank offers to Romanian companies the possibility of substantially decreasing the commercial and political risks that might occur during international commercial transactions through a wide range of specific instruments. EximBank is fully committed to support the Romanian business environment by helping and promoting the Romanian exports onto emerging markets, backing up SME-s development and their increase in competitiveness and by sustaining projects related to key economic sectors in order to accelerate the absorption of European structural funds.
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Communications Services Cosmote: 319G, Splaiul Independentei, Atrium House, 1st & 2nd floors Ph.: 021-404-1234, 0766-121-234; Fax: 021-413-7530; www.cosmote.ro Orange: Europe House, 47-53, Lascar Catargiu Blvd. Ph.: 021-203-3030, 0744-411-411; www.orange.ro RCS & RDS: 73-75, Dr. N. Staicovici St. Ph.: 031-400-7777; Fax: 031-400-6060; www.rcs-rds.ro Romtelecom: City Gate, North Tower, 7-18 floors, 3-5, Presei Libere Sq. Ph.: 1930; www.romtelecom.ro UPC Romania: 62D, Nordului Ave. Ph.: 031-1000872; 031-100-0400; www.upc.ro Vodafone Romania: 15 Charles de Gaulle Plaza Ph.: 037-202-2222; 037-202-7777 www.vodafone.ro
Foreign Trade Chambers The American Chamber Of Commerce: Union Int’l Center, 11, Ion Campineanu St. Ph.: 021-312-4834; Fax: 021-312-4851; www.amcham.ro Deutsch - Rumänische Industrie Und Handelskammer Bukarest: 35, Clucerului St., 2nd floor Ph.: 021-223-1531; Fax: 021-223-1538; www.ahkrumaenien.ro Foreign Investors Council: Union Intl Center, 11, Ion Campineanu St. Ph./Fax.: 021-222-1931; www.fic.ro French T.I.C.C.in Romania: 21, Andrei Muresanu St. Ph.: 021-317-1284, 021-230-0377; www.ccifer.ro Japan External Trade Organization: IBC Modern, 34-36, Carol Blvd. 5th floor Ph.: 021-310-6801/02; www.jetro.go.jp ROMANIA ITALY T.I.C.C.: 13, Franceza St. Ph: 021-310-2315/16; Fax: 021-310-2318 www.cameradicommercio.ro ROMANIA ISRAEL T.I.C.C.: 98, Elena Vacarescu St. Ph: 021-312-4047; www.cciri.ro Romania Turkey T.I.C.C.: 58, Austrului St., Ph./Fax: 021-326-9722 Romania China T.I.C.C.: 35, Johaness Kepler St. Ph.: 021-2120-680; Fax: 021-212-0681. www.ccbrc,ro
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Romtelecom and COSMOTE Romania Active Supporters of the Romanian Economy and Society
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omtelecom and COSMOTE Romania, part of OTE and Deutsche Telekom Groups, have a long term commitment towards the Romanian market. As businesses operating in Romania, they strive to support the overall market development, by providing top technological infrastructure and best-in-class services to the customers. Romtelecom, the fixed services provider, has a history of over 80 years in the Romanian market, while COSMOTE Romania launched commercial operations in December 2005. In record, time, COSMOTE Romania, became the fastest growing mobile operator in Romania, according to a Citigroup report in 2007. During the last years, Romtelecom focused on providing an integrated portfolio of communication and entertainment services, TV and Internet, significantly contributing to the company’s evolution in terms of revenues and customer base. On the business segment, Romtelecom is permanently consolidating its position as complex ICT solutions provider, being a trustworthy ally for companies of all sizes. Thus, at the end of 2013, Romtelecom reported 4.85 million RGUs. On the mobile side, relying on innovation through simplicity and unlimited communication, COSMOTE consolidated its market position by optimizing its products and services portfolio and continues its network rollout. COSMOTE maintained a sustained growth in the business customer base, as a result of the increase of data services
Nikolai Beckers, CEO at Romtelecom and COSMOTE Romania
usage. Thus, in 2013, the business segment grew by 10.3% on a yearly basis and the total customer base stood at approximately 6.1 million. COSMOTE Romania offers a state of the art 3G data network with mobile broadband download speeds of up to 43.2 Mbps in 249 cities and over 3,850 localities across Romania, covering almost 67% of the population. Moreover, customers enjoy speeds of up to 21.6 Mbps in HSPA+ technology in 285 cities across the country. Overall, 3G services cover almost 80% of the Romanian population. Also, the company offers 4G population coverage for 90% of the capital, alongside Otopeni, Ploiesti, Cluj, Iasi and Sinaia, Busteni, Predeal resorts and 10 district capitals: Bacau,
Suceava, Botosani, Piatra Neamt, Constanta, Braila, Galati, Buzau, Satu Mare, Baia Mare. Effective April 6, 2014, when the new spectrum acquired following the spectrum auction in 2012 will become valid, COSMOTE Romania will make available to its customers mature services based on 4G technology, enabling download speeds of up to 150 Mbps alongside upload speeds of up to 50 Mbps. Nikolai Beckers, CEO at Romtelecom and COSMOTE Romania, about 2014 priorities: “Our vision is to become No.1 integrated operator in the Romanian market, with a sustainable position in all segments and geographies, capturing fixed-mobile synergies across the value chain, to deliver customer excellence, with a highly efficient and focused operating model. The two companies invested heavily in the country economy throughout the past years. Only in 2014, the total investments will amount to approximately 170 million euro for both COSMOTE and Romtelecom. The focus will be on developing 3G and 4G networks on the mobile side, and on the expansion of the FTTH network on the fixed, as well as on providing even more high-quality TV content for our residential customers. On the business segment, turnkey ICT services will be the priority.” Combining their strengths, Romtelecom and COSMOTE Romania represent the only operator on the Romanian market to offer truly integrated telecom and entertainment services. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Stock Exchanges & brokers Brokers’ Association: 15-17 Povernei St. Ph.: 021-317-9933; Fax: 021-317-9934 www.asociatiabrokerilor.ro Bucharest Stock Exchange & Rasdaq Securities Market: IBC Modern, 34-36, Carol I Blvd., 14 th floor; www.bvb.ro • BSE: Ph.: 021-307-9500; Fax: 021-307-9519 • RASDAQ: Ph.: 021-317-9922; Fax: 021-317-9923 Central Shareholders Registry: IBC Modern, 34-36, Carol I Blvd.,3rd, 8th, 9th floor; Ph.: 021-408-5800; Fax: 021- 408-5816; www.depozitarulcentral.ro Clearing-House Bucharest: IBC Modern, 34-36, Carol I Blvd., 3rd floor Ph.: 021-315-7312/18; Fax: 021-315-7306; www.ccbro.ro Intercapital Invest: 33, Aviatorilor Blvd., 1st floor Ph./Fax: 021-222-8731/44; www.intercapital.ro KTD Invest Sa: 10, Splaiul Unirii, Bl. B5, 3rd floor, Apt. 8 Ph./Fax: 021-319-6410; www.ktd.ro National Association For Investors Protection: 71, Popa Tatu St. Ph./Fax: 021-666-2968; www.investitor.com/anpi National Securities Commission: 2, Foisorului St. Ph.: 021-326-6874; Fax: 021-326-6848; www.cnvmr.ro Romanian Commodities Exchange: 50-52, Buzesti St., 7th floor Ph.: 021-317-4560; Fax: 021-317-2878; www.brm.ro Tradeville: 50-52, Buzesti St., 7th floor; www.tradeville.eu Vienna Investment Trust: 4, Splaiul Unirii, Block B3 Ph.: 021-207-4880/83; Fax: 021-207-4898; www.viennainvestment.ro
Consultants Deloitte & Touche: America House, Eastern Wing, 3rd floor, 4-8, N. Titulescu Ave. Ph.: 021-222-1661; Fax: 021-222-1660; www.deloitte.com/ro Ernst & Young: Bucharest Tower Center, 22nd floor, 15-17 Ion Mihalache St., Ph.: 021-402-4000; Fax: 021-310-7193; www.ey.com KPMG: Victoria Business Park, 69-71, Bucuresti-Ploiesti Ave. Ph.: 0741-800-800; Fax: 0741-800-700; www.kpmg.ro Mercury Research: 95, Siret St., 1st floor Ph.: 021-224-6600; Fax: 021-224-6611; www.mercury.ro PricewaterhouseCoopers: Lakeview Building, 301-311, Barbu Vacarescu St. Ph.: 021-225-3000; Fax: 021-225-3600; www.pwc.com/ro Roland Berger Strategy Consultants: 79-81, Popa Savu St. Ph.: 021-306-0500; Fax: 021-306-0510; www.rolandberger.ro
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Executive Recruitment Accord Group: 8, Luminei St., Apt. 1 Ph./Fax: 021-230-0660/1; www.accord-ece.com Adecco Romania: 1-5 Costache Negri St., Opera Center, Ph.: 021-300-3546; Fax: 021-300-3545; www.adecco.ro Aims Human Capital Romania: 16B, Mozart St. Ph./Fax: 021-231-0990/98; Fax: 0372-870-520; www.aims.ro Amrop: 20, Mr.Av. Stefan Sanatescu Ph.: 031-103-2673; 021-222-1306; www.amrop.ro ANTAL INTERNATIONAL: • 74, Sabinelor St, Entr. B, 1st floor, ap.6; Ph: 021-411-6114; 0723-165-580 www.antal.com Barnett Mccall: 1, Arh. Louis Blanc St., 5th floor ; Ph.: 021-231-5324/26; Fax: 021-231-5325; www.bmr.ro George Butunoiu Executive Search Consultants: 17, Andrei Muresanu St. Ph.: 021-233-2093; www.georgebutunoiu.ro Lugera & Makler: 98, Vulturilor St., Grawe Bldg. Ph.: 021-318-7120; Fax: 021-318-7128; www.lugerarepublic.ro Manpower Romania: Izvor Business Center, 80, Izvor St, 3rd floor, Ph: 021-312-1898; Fax: 021-312-1887; www.manpower.ro Talentor Romania: 56, Frumoasa St. Ph.: 021-313-8756; www.talentor.ro Target Romania: 17C, Sevastopol St., Building B, Office 19, Ph: 021-319-4562; www.targetexecutivesearch.com Total Business Solutions: 108, Matei Basarab St., Bl. 74, Entr. B, 4th floor, Apt. 54 Ph: 021-320-6027; Fax: 021-323-7015; www.tbs.ro Wrightson Romania: 33, Paul Greceanu St, Ph./Fax: 031-401-1851; www.wrightson.ro
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BUSINESS
REAL ESTATE AGENCIES ACTIV PROPERTIES alliance partner of CUSHMAN &WAKEFIELD: BECTRO Center, 29, Sfanta Vineri St., Ph: 021-408-0300, www.activpropertyservices.ro THE ADVISERS/KNIGHT FRANCK: 239, Calea Dorobantilor, Ph.: 021-380-8585 www.knightfrank.com/romania/ BNP PARIBAS Real Estate: 11, Ion Campineanu St., Union International Center Ph.: 021-312-7000 www.atisreal.ro CB RICHARD ELLIS/EURISKO: 47-53, Lascar Catargiu Blvd., Europe House, 2nd floor Ph.: 021-313-1020 www.cbre.ro CENTURY 21 ROMANIA: 32, Alexandru Alley, groundfloor, Apt. 2 Ph.: Ph: 021-236-8879 www.century21ro.com COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL ROMANIA: 169A, Calea Floreasca, Floreasca Business Park, Building A, 7th floor Ph.: 021-319-7777 www.colliers.ro CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD Activ Consulting: 2, Dr. N. Staicovici St., Opera Center II, 4th floor Ph.: 021-408-0300 www.cushwake.com DTZ ROMANIA: 40-44, Banu Antonache St., Floreasca II Business Center, 3rd floor Ph.: 021-310-3100 www.dtz.com/ro JONES LANG LaSALLE: 145, Calea Victorie, Victoria Center, 10th floor, Ph.: 021-302-3400 www.joneslanglasalle-romania.com LOCIC IMOBILIARE: 7, Paris St. Ph.: 021-324-6539 www.locic.ro NEOCASA: 155, Calea Victoriei, Bl. D1, Entr. 7, 11th floor Ph.: 021-312-7171 www.neocasa.ro
Mail Services Cargus: • 73, Unirii Blvd., Bl.G3, tronson 2, groundfoor • 1, Calea Bucuresti, Otopeni; Ph.: 021-9330; www.cargus.ro
REGATTA: 30, Puskin St., 4th floor Ph.: 021-232-9012/3 www.regatta.ro RE/MAX Bastion: 234, Stefan cel Mare Ave. Ph.: 021-231-1099; www.bastion.ro
DHL International Romania: • 65-69, Buzesti St. • 73, Unirii Blvd., Bl.G3, tronson 2, groundfoor Ph.: 021-222-1777; www.dhl.ro Fan Courier: 32, Soseaua de centura, Stefanesti, Ilfov; Ph: 021-9336; www.fancourier.ro Federal Express Romania: • 13, Ferme “C” St., Otopeni Ph.: 021-201-4822; 0372-187.700 • 7, Grigore Alexandrescu St., bl. H1, entr.2, ground floor, ap.24; Ph.: 021-311-7376; Fax: 021-311-7378; www.irs.ro/fedex ITS Express: 13, Maramures St., Ph./Fax: 021-211-2070; www.itsexpress.ro Mailman: 15, Capitan Captariu St. Ph.: 021-9390, 021-211-8585; www.mailman.ro OTTO CURIER: 8, Cotroceni Ave. Ph.: 021-9335; www.ottocurier.ro Posta Rapida / Express Mail: 140, Dacia Blvd. Ph.: 021-200-7500; www.posta-romana.ro TNT Romania: BBP Building, Corp C1+C2, ground floor, 1A, Bucuresti – Ploiesti Ave. Ph.: 021-303-4567; Fax: 021-303-4543; www.tnt.com UPS - United Parcel Service: 81-83, 13 Septembrie Ave., Bl. 77A, Ph.: 0800-877.877; www.ups.ro
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Schools The following English-speaking schools are located in Bucharest: American International School: 196, Soseaua Pipera-Tunari. Ph.: 021-204-4300, www.aisb.ro International British School: 21-23, Agricultori St. Ph. 021-253-1698, www.ibsb.ro International Computer High School of Bucharest: 428, Mihai Bravu Ave, Ph. 021-327-5443, www.ichb.ro International School for Primary Education: 72, Petre Aurelian St. Green Lake Residences Ph. 021-380-3535, www.inspe.ro Lauder Reut Kindergartden: 15, Barsch Iuliu St. Ph.: 031-805-5772, www.lauder-reut.eu Mark Twain International School: 25B, Erou Iancu Nicolae St. Ph.0724-000-900; 021-267-8912, www.marktwainschool.ro
Lawyers Biris Goran: 47, Aviatorilor Blvd., Ph.: 021-260-0710, Fax: 021-260-0720; www.birisgoran.ro
28, Hristo Botev Blvd., Ph: +40(21) 305-5757 / Fax: +40(21) 305-5758 www.gruiadufaut.com Nestor Nestor Diculescu Kingston Petersen: Bucharest Business Park, Entr. A, 4th floor, 1A, Bucuresti-Ploiesti Ave. Ph.: 021-201-1200; Fax: 021-201-1210; www.nndkp.ro Pachiu & Associates attorneys at Law: 75-77, Buzesti St., 5th floor Ph.: 021-312-1008; Fax: 021-312-1009; www.pachiu.com Pangratie, Alexe & Associates: 1, Nicolae Titulescu Blvd. 1st floor, apt. 94 Ph.: 021-318-5500; Fax: 021-318-5501; www.pap-law.ro Rubin Meyer Doru & Trandafir Attorneys At Law Affiliated With Herzfeld & Rubin, P.C.: 7, Putu cu Plopi St. Ph.: 021-311-1460; Fax: 021-311-1465. www.hr.ro
Moving companies
Radu Taracila Padurari Retevoescu in association with Allen&Overy LLP: 15, Charles de Gaulle Plaza, 5th floor, Ph.: 031-405-7777, Fax: 031-405-7778; www.allenovery.com
AGS Bucharest: 256, Basarabia Blvd, Ph.: 021-345-0666 www.agsmovers.ro
Salcianu Attorneys at Law: 30, Pictor Daniel Rosenthal St., 3rd floor apt 4, Ph.: 021-650-2424; Fax: 021-650-2422, www.lsoffice.ro
Corstjens Bucharest: 20, Tamasi St. B Bldg., Buftea, Ilfov County Ph.: 031- 102-0665; www.corstjens.com
Salans FMC SNR Denton Europe Tudor & Associates: 28-C, G-ral C. Budisteanu St. Ph.: 021-312-4950; Fax: 021-312-4951; www.dentons.com Schoenherr Romania: 30, Dacia Blvd., Ph.: 021-319-6790, Fax: 021-319-6791; www. schoenherr.eu Stoica & Associates: 2, Dr. Staicovici St, Opera Center II, 2nd floor, Ph: 021-402-0930; Fax: 021- 402-0931 www.stoica-asociatii.ro Tonucci & Partners: 39-41, Academiei St. 2nd floor Ph: 031-425-4030/1/2; Fax: 031-425-4033 www.tonucci.com Tuca, Zbarcea & Associates: 4-8, N. Titulescu Ave, America House, West Wing, 8th floor Ph: 021-204-8890; Fax: 021-204-8899 www.tuca.ro Vasile Deleanu Attorneys At Law Member Of Warwick Legal Network: 2, Maresal Josef Pilsudski Entrance Ph.: 021-201-6684; Fax: 021-201-6685; www.deleanu.ro Wolf Theiss: 58-60, Gheorghe Polizu St., Bucharest Corporate Center12th- 13th floors; Ph.: 021-308-8100; Fax: 021-308-8125; www.wolftheiss.ro
Allied Pickfords: 29,Topraisar St. Ph.: 021-221-95-46; www.alliedpickfords.ro
GLOBAL RELOCATION SERVICES: 139, Atomistilor St, Magurele, Ilfov County Ph.: 021-311-6425/26 www.globalrelocation.ro Orbit int’l forwarding & Moving: Soseaua Bucuresti – Urziceni Km. 18+400, Afumati, Ilfov County ; Ph/Fax.: 021-350-15-00; www.orbitromania.ro
Translators Central European Translation: 1 Dimitrie Cantemir Blvd, Sitraca Center, 2nd entance, 6th floor, suite 606-608 , Ph.: 021-313-00-04; Fax: 021-310-28-26. www.cet.ro Champollion: • Vitan Agency - 11 Foisorului St., suite 42; Ph.: 021-327-5617, 0737-527-288. • Universitate Agency - 1-3 Batistei St. entrance A, suite 4, Ph.: 021-340-2263, 0720-544-260 • Romana Agency - 27 Magheru Blvd., Ph.: 021-313-7736, 0737-527-289 www.champollion.ro Talk Partners: 1 Dorohoi Lane, suite 56, 3rd entrance, Ph.: 0771-540-479; 0724-353-215; www.talkpartners.ro. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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MUSEUMS
museums museums A MUST SEE LIST
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THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART OF ROMANIA 49-53, Calea Victoriei. Ph: 021-314-8119, 021-313-3030. www. mnar.arts.ro Open: 11.00 –19.00 (May-September), 10.00 – 18.00 (October-April). Closed: Mon. & Tue., January1, Easter Sunday, December25. The National Museum of Art of Romania is housed in the former Royal, in an area of great architectural and historical value. • The European Art Gallery includes painting, sculpture and decorative art. The most important schools of European art are well represented by works of Domenico Veneziano, Lucas Cranach the Elder, El Greco, Pieter Breughel the
Younger, Rembrandt, Monet, Sisley, Rodin and other great names. The Gallery offers an overview of the most important artistic movements that marked art history from the early Renaissance till the the 20th century. • The Medieval Romanian Art Gallery displays works from the 14th to the 19th century: frescoes, icons, embroideries, manuscripts, silver and gold objects and sculptures. The Romanian Modern Art Gallery illustrates the development of Romanian fine arts from the first decades of the 19th century till the second half of the 20th century. It includes works of renowned Romanian painters Aman, Grigorescu, Andreescu, Luchian, Tonitza, Pallady, Petrascu, Brancusi, Paciurea.
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MUSEUMS
THE ART COLLECTIONS MUSEUM
selected museums
111, Calea Victoriei. Ph: 021-211-1749, 021-212-9641. www.mnar.arts.ro/Muzeul-Colectiilor-de-Arta Visiting hours: Sat. – Wed. 11.00 –19.00 (May-September), 10.00 – 18.00 (October-April) Closed: Thu. & Fri., January 1, Easter Sunday, December 25. Founded in 1978, the museum houses previously private collections that have been donated to the state during the time. They mirror accurately the development of Romanian art in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries giving a fair view of the history of taste and of the economic power of native Romanian collectors. European as well as Oriental art works are also present.
THE JEWISH MUSEUM 3, Mamulari St. Open: Mon - Thu 09:00 – 14:00, Fri 09:00 – 12:00, Sun 09:00 – 13:00.
Bucharest is a city of history and arts. It probably has more museums per capita than any other capital in the world. Here you’ll find a list of selected museums. Usually there is a nominal entrance fee. Multilingual guides are typically available on request at no charge.
Located in the former Templul Unirea Sfanta (United Holy Temple) synagogue which Survived both World War II and Nicolae Ceausescu unscathed, it displays a collection of books written, published, illustrated, or translated by Romanian Jews, an archive of the history of Romanian Jewry; a collection of paintings of and by Romanian Jews that, while relatively small, consists of works of a caliber worthy of a major art museum.
DIMITRIE GUSTI NATIONAL VILLAGE MUSEUM 28-30, Kiseleff Ave. Ph.: 021-317-9103/06/10. www.muzeul-satului.ro Open: Nov.-Apr.: 09:00 - 17:00., May-Oct.: 09:00 - 19:00, every day, including Monday One of the most valuable ethnographic museums in the world. A creation of sociologist Dimitrie Gusti in 1936, the outdoor museum covers 30 hectares with over 70 exhibits of houses, 99 auxiliary buildings, churches and traditional techniques and utensils (water and windmills, oil presses, etc) from all of the country’s provinces. Folkloric art collections and souvenirs.
THE CITY ASTRONOMIC OBSERVATORY 21, Lascar Catargiu Blvd. Ph.: 021-212-9644. www.astro-urseanu.ro It includes both a science fiction and an astronomic club. This small museum of Romanian history of astronomy is worth visiting. GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 1, Kiselef Ave. Ph. 021-312-8826. www.antipa.ro
DIMITRIE LEONIDA ENGINEERING MUSEUM
Open: 10:00–17:00, Mon. & Tue. closed.
2, Candiano Popescu St. Ph: 021-336-9390. Open: 09:00 – 17.30, Mon. & Tue. closed.
One of the top natural history museums in the world. There are 30,000 items including the unique and controversial skeletons of Deinotherium Gigantissimus, 15 foot tall.
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This museum displays some 5,000 exhibits covering a wide range of industrial models: turbines, compressors, steam engine, as well as cars and motorcycles.
THE NATIONAL COTROCENI MUSEUM
THE PEASANT MUSEUM 3, Kiseleff Ave. Ph: 021-317-9661. www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro Open: 10:00-18:00, Mon. closed. An ethnographic museum, the Peasant Museum houses icons, tools, textiles and reconstructed items used by peasants in everyday life. The extensive collection of beautiful costumes gives visitors insight into the styles and traditions of the Romanian peasants. The museum also houses an extensive gift shop where you can buy regional handcrafts and textiles.
1, Geniului Blvd. Ph. 021-317-3106. www.muzeulcotroceni.ro Open: 9:30–17:30, Mon. closed.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM
Reconstructing the atmosphere of the Medieval Cotroceni Church (17 Century) and the old Royal Residence of King Ferdinand, Cotroceni Museum is a valuable architectural and historic site. Works of art for sale. Entrance permitted by appointment; a valid ID is needed.
Houses collections illustrating the history of music composition and documents from the life of renowned Romanian musician and composer George Enescu.
141, Calea Victoriei. Ph. 021-318-1450. www.georgeenescu.ro Open: 10:00–17:00. Mon. closed.
ZAMBACCIAN MUSEUM 21A, Zambacian St. Ph.: 021-230-1920. THE NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM THE GEOLOGY MUSEUM 2, Kiseleff Ave. Ph.: 021-212-8952. Open: Mon. – Sun. 10:00 – 16:00. www.geology.ro Impressive collections of minerals including a wellpresented geological structure of Romania.
12, Calea Victoriei. Ph: 021-315-8207. www.mnir.ro Open 10:00-18:00, Mon. closed.
www.mnar.arts.ro/Muzeul-KH-Zambaccian Open: 11:00 – 19:00 (May – September); 10:00 - 18:00 (October – April), Mon. & Tue. closed.
This museum, housed in the former Post Office Palace, contains more than 600,000 examples of historic and artistic artifacts that should help to familiarize you with Romanian culture and civilization from ancient times to the present.
Here one can admire works of art of wellknown Romanian and European artists such as Andreescu, Grigorescu, Luchian, Pallady, Tonitza, Cezanne, Renoir, Delacroix, Corot, Derain, Matisse, Pissaro, Bonnard, Utrillo and Picasso.
THE NATIONAL MILITARY MUSEUM 125-127, Mircea Vulcanescu St. Ph: 021-319-6007. www. muzeu.mapn.ro Open 9:00 - 17:00, Mon. closed. Founded in 1927, this museum illustrates the most important battles to achieve independence and freedom in Romanian history. The museum holds displays of oriental and occidental weapons, Romanian and foreign uniforms, military medals and awards, trophies, artillery, cannons and airplanes as well as a library of historical military documents.
MINOVICI MUSEUM OF ANCIENT WESTERN ART
SUTU PALACE, BUCHAREST CITY MUSEUM 2, I.C. Bratianu Blvd. Ph.: 021-313-8515. www. muzeulbucurestiului.ro Open: 10:00 – 18:00pm, Mon. & Tue. closed.
THE COMMUNIST ICONOGRAPHY MUSEUM
Bucharest History and Art Museum housed in the neoclassical Sutu Palace (1834), the museum features over 300,000 artifacts, from coins, books, maps, engravings, paintings, armory and furniture to traditional outfits.
A compact, but fascinating, cellar room inside the Peasant Museum is home to a collection of communist-era busts (including that of Lenin), paintings and memorabilia.
3, Soseaua Kiseleff (within the Peasant Museum)
3, Dr. Minovici St. Ph: 021-665 7334. www.minovici.ro Open: 09:00 – 17:00, Mon. – Wed. closed. In addition to the small renaissance art collection, the museum features Belgian tapestries, Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass, a complete library and Italian paintings. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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MUSEUMS
Mogosoaia Red Brick Palace Ana-Maria Popescu
Once you get to Mogosoaia, at the Br창ncovenesti Palaces near Bucharest, you feel overwhelmed by over 300 years of history and great commotion. It is not only the fact that Mogosoaia is literally an architectural wonder, but also because you constantly feel you are being watched and gently guided from the shadows by the great personalities who gave life and huge historical value to the place. 60 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
O
ne of the traditions much cherished by Romanians says that any house mirrors both the appearance of its inhabitants, and their destiny. Mogosoaia Palace has two souls and two faces: the heroic and the sacred face of powerful ruler Constantin Brâncoveanu who built it, and the gentle and refined face of the wonderful princess Martha Bibescu, who restored and embellished it, with such love, care and dedication that only a grand lady could be capable of. Therefore, when you go to Mogosoaia, prepare yourself to immerse in a world that you have to discover both with your mind and with your soul, beyond the things that you actually see. You will travel back in time, to historical periods abounding in events which, nowadays, seem inspired by fairy tales. Only with an open mind and heart can you feel the special atmosphere of this magical place, can you understand its fierce history, can you breathe the royal air of times governed by great nobility, leaving the present behind and travelling to a labyrinth of events and stories which are nothing but genuine pages of Romanian history. It is not the special building that is the major attraction, but the souls and stories of those who inhabited it.
History
Photo: Front view of the Mogosoaia Palace © Ana Maria Radu
Before becoming a ruler, Constantin Brâncoveanu (b. 1654 - d. August 15th, 1714) – a great nobleman, ruler of Tara Românească between 1688 and 1714 and grandson of ruler Serban Cantacuzino – bought many plots of land from Mogoşoaia, widow of nobleman Mogoş, who owned the land where the palace was to be erected. The construction of this outstanding palace began in 1698 and ended on September 20th, 1702, according to the plate on the Eastern wall of the Palace. During the rule of Constantin Brâncoveanu, the Palace was a constant presence in almost all the domestic affairs of its founder’s reign. After the Palace inauguration, 12 years after he took over the reign, it is here that he held his administrative meetings, especially in summer time. A few years after 1714, when the ruler was beheaded, the Ottomans cruelly turned it into an inn. But symbolically it remained the home of the royal family, who returned here from their exile, now consisting of only of women who had been chased to Asia after the ruler and all his sons were beheaded. After the disappearance of the Brâncoveanu family, the palace was taken over by the Bibescu family. Before 1848, the last ruler of this family, George Bibescu, carried out one of the most significant restoration of the place. Just as it has two souls and two faces, the Palace also has two destinies. One refers to its erection and evaluation, and another reflects the destructions and devastations to which it fell prey. The first time it happened in 1714, when the ruler was arrested, and the Palace was plundered and put to fire. Then, the valuable Italian and Persian furniture and artefacts, the frescoes and paintings which depicted a historical synthesis of this reign with vast and complex connections with the world of the Orient and the West, were lost forever. For instance, the Throne Hall displayed representations of the ruler’s travel to Adrianopol and his reception at the sultan’s court. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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MUSEUMS Photo: Panoramic view over Mogosoaia Palace and its surroundings © www.skycam.ro
The Turks again set it on fire during the 1769-1774 Russian-Turk war, because governor Nicolae Brâncoveanu sided with the Russians during the conflict. A new destruction of the Palace followed during the 1821 revolution, when the last descendant of the Brancoveanu family, Grigore Brâncoveanu, fled to Brasov and the building was taken over by Tudor Vladimirescu’s soldiers. In 1832, after Grigore’s death, the palace was inherited by his adopted daughter, Zoe Mavrocordat and, following her marriage to ruler Gheorghe Bibescu, it passed to his family and was restored in the interval 18601880 by Nicolae Bibescu. He built the family vault in the palace park, and the Elchingen villa nearby. The Palace was administered by the Bibescu family who moved to the new villa. Thus, the old building remained uninhabited until 1911, when Maria-Nicole Darvari sold the Palace to her cousin, GeorgeValentin Bibescu, who offered it as a wedding gift to his wife, Martha. She fell in love with the Mogosoaia estate and the Palace, and miraculously managed to keep it and turn it into the soul of an epoch. The last destruction occurred in 1916, when it was bombed by the Germans. Then, after being restored as we see it today, the communist period left upon it the traces of a strong symbolic degradation, but the building remained standing. Literally going through fire and sword, Mogosoaia is a great representation of the brâncovenesc style, and the Palace is still considered the most typical and expressive example of old Romanian architecture, internationally acknowledged and ap preciated as an architectural style. In fact, the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu was to
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Tara Românească a period of great economic, cultural and spiritual boom.
Princess Martha Bibescu, out of love for Mogosoaia Martha Bibescu assumed the responsibility of restoring the Palace restoration beginning with 1912. During the World War I, the restoration works were prevented by the destructions produced by German bombing. During the German occupation of Bucharest and southern Romania, princess Martha Bibescu remained in the Capital, in charge with the hospital of Queen Mary and living at the Place for a while. Charged with collaboration with the German troops, Martha Bibescu left to London for a while. Then, on her return home, she resumed the restoration works after 1920, spending much of the fortune collected from the sale of the books she wrote. The Palace was inaugurated in 1927, but some of the interior works continued until 1935. During World War II, the Palace was a meeting place for allied diplomats, being rented to the Swiss legation in Romania for several months. After March 6th, 1945, the estate was nationalised by the communist government. Martha Bibescu manage to have the authorities declare the Palace, which was still owned by her, a historic monument. The princess left the country forever in September 1945, leaving the Palace to her daughter, Valentina, and her husband, Dimitrie Ghika-Comănesti. In 1949, the Palace was nationalised, too, and Valentina and Dimitrie Ghika-Comănesti were arrested. Until 1957, the building was destroyed and
vandalised, the art collections being stolen and dismembered. It was only in 1957 that the Palace became the headquarters of the medieval section of the National Art Museum, being restored as late as 1977.
Architecture Even now, after so many destructions and repeated restorations, the estate still keeps its architectural unity, and the buildings surrounding the rectangular yard harmoniously complete each other. The stone alley, the walls which resisted the trials of so many centuries, the arches and the gates take you back in time. The palace is built in the brâncovenesc style influenced by Italian renaissance, abounding in ornaments reminding of the decorative exuberance of the baroque. The construction style, Romanian renaissance architecture, is also called the brâncovenesc style. Its features are great expressivity, which is provided by the architectural volumes of external staircases, the pavilions and loggias which picturesquely vary the aspect of the facades. Although here and there tributary to a traditional style with arches and gorges, the ornamentation is refined by the rich adornments of the frames, columns and handrails, revealing the baroque influence, rich in vegetal motives. The proportions are dynamic and harmonious. Both the setting and the free spaces, structured by columns, annihilate the massive architectural forms, the open porch becoming a representative element of brâncovenesc buildings. The roofs are semiround or semi-spherical cupolas. The setting is sculpted in stone or applied as stucco reliefs. The stone ornamentation is dominated by stucco floral motives, with many adornments of Oriental inspiration.
The buildings of the Mogosoaia complex
Photo: The Guest House © Ana Maria Radu
The main building of the Mogosoaia complex is the Palace built by Constantin Brâncoveanu, with the royal flats on the first floor, which can be accessed directly from the yard up an external staircase leaving onto a front balcony. The Palace ground floor has the servants’ rooms, and the bas ement contains a cellar with the ceiling made of four domes. The lake facade is also special, with a Venetian-inspired loggia, with three arches. The kitchen is in the palace yard, which contains four eviction towers. The gate tower guards over the entrance. You can climb it up an external staircase. The kitchen was located away from the palace in order to avoid fire, and thus the food reached the table already cold, as Antonio Maria del Chiaro, Italian secretary of Brâncoveanu, complained. In fact, during the feasts of the time guests used to eat until the table was full with piles of plates. During Brâncoveanu’s time, the estate was not as quiet as it is today. The opulent feasts surprised the foreigners who stopped at the ruler’s court. “It was a very old custom that during any official feasts organised at the Court, and at noblemen’s weddings, the plates should not be collected from the table as courses followed each other, but placed one on top of the other on the entire length of the table, and so there was such a high pile of plates, that the guests, even standing, could hardly see each other from the two ends of the table”, says the ruler’s secretary. Both the gate tower and the kitchen were restored by Martha Bibescu between 1922 and 1930. The chapel Gheorghe Bibescu, built after 1880, contains the tombs of the Bibescu family, including princes Mihai and George Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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MUSEUMS Photo: The kitchen and the gate Tower © wikipedia.org
Basarab-Brâncoveanu, both aviators dead during World War II. The Mogosoaia greenhouses were built after 1890 by French architects, and are still used to grow flowers and as a plastic education workshop for children. In summer time, the ice cellar served to store the ice brought from the nearby Mogosoaia lake. In the eastern corner of the yard there is a massive construction, whose architecture aims to fit in the ensemble, copying some of the elements specific to the Palace. The building has a large portico of brick columns at the ground floor and the first floor, for which the source of inspiration was the kitchen portico. This grandiose and unusual building was erected in the second half of the 19th century by prince Nicolae Bibescu (1830–June 1st, 1890), the then owner of the Mogosoaia estate, and it is known as the Villa d’Elchingen. He gave it this name in honour of his wife, Helene Ney d’Elchingen, niece of marshal Michel Ney. The villa was to be transformed in the brâncovenesc style in the third decade of the 20th century, by Martha Bibescu’s daughter, Valentina, and her husband, Dimitrie Ghica-Comănesti, following the sketches of architect G.M. Cantacuzino. The “Sfântul Gheorghe” church lies outside the Palace walls, near the gate tower. Erected by Constantin Brâncoveanu and finished in 1688, some time before Brâncoveanu became a ruler, it hosts the tomb of George-Valentin Bibescu, as well as the votive painting representing Constantin Brâncoveanu and his four sons. The little church, whose titular saint is St. George, was completed one month before the enthronement
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of the ruler (August 20th, 1688). With fewer treasures than the other churches built by him in Muntenia or Transylvania, it remains a piece de resistance for the brâncovenesc style. It was restored repeatedly, the last time after the 1977 earthquake. But it was the couple Martha and George Valentin Bibescu who, between 1911and 1912, gave it its current glory, cleaning the painting and the iconostasis, and donating many noble icons. Lady Maria (the ruler’s wife) and their seven daughters are buried here.
Concept of the exhibition discourse Since 1957, the palace has hosted the Medieval division of the National Art Museum. And, after many procrastinations and hesitations, the communists finally had to acknowledge its rightful place in the national patrimony. Today, the museum, which was reopened in 1933, within the Centre of National Culture of Mogoşoaia, displays art collections organised following the idea of a “Romanian synthesis”, a concept suggested by the great Romanian historian Nicolae Iorga. Practically, the original artefacts no longer exist, but the museum has, among its collections, a substantial one donated by Liana and Dan Nasta (Romanian actor and director of film and theatre). The story of master Dan Nasta has, like the story of Mogosoaia Palaces, a double side: he lived divided between his two equally beloved passions: theatre and art. When he was not on the stage or backstage, he would spend his time searching for and purchasing items to complete his fantastic collection of
medieval and ethnographic art. Then, after many years of acquisitions, he came up with the idea of placing his treasures in a historic space. Thus, his collection arrived at the Brâncovenesti Palaces. “For 13 years Dan Nasta strived to donate his collection to Mogosoaia Palace in order to instil life into it. A huge documentary, intellectual and material endeavour, because the design of the exhibition is entirely his concept”, says the museum manager. The Master strived to illustrate how Romanian civilisation interacted and was influenced by the other European civilisations. The modern vision provides a synthesis of 300 years of accumulations of brâncovenesc art and history. The mere presentations of chapters, of halls, in fact, gives us a glimpse of this fabulous content: the Honour Hall, the Turkish-Persian Room, the Italian Room, the French Room, the Fanariot Room, the Carpet Room, the Map Room, Transylvania, the Throne Hall or the Royal Chancellery. The Orthodoxy Room is representative for the Brâncoveanu family and orthodoxy. It hosts icons which represent the southern origin of the family and their relations with Transylvania. Then there are jewels reminding of donations to churches on the Athos, or fresco fragments from Văcăreşti Monastery, with its post-brâncovenesc style, a church which was ruthlessly destroyed during the last years of the communist regime. The Mogosoaia Museum of Medieval Art also
hosts a silk embroidery inspired by the votive painting of the Brâncoaveanu family. The park with a hedge labyrinth in front of the palace extends towards the lake. Once, Martha Bibescu’s beautiful peacocks used to stroll on its alleys.
Photo: Saint George Church © Andrei Stroe
Mogosoaia Museum Centre The entire Mogosoaia complex was included in the tourist circuit in 2001, after many years of restoration. Today, the Mogosoaia complex no longer fulfils only the function of a museum preserving fragments of history with great symbolic load. Under the name of Cultural Centre “Palatele Brâncovenesti”, it is a public Institution of Culture under the authority of the General Council of Bucharest City. A genuine monumental complex, with historic, cultural, tourist and entertainment functions, Mogosoaia is one of the most sought after places and one of the most attractive due to its invaluable architectural patrimony to be found in a picturesque natural landscape in the immediate vicinity of Bucharest. The Centre administers the Brâncovenesti Palaces of Mogosoaia. The palace building continues to host the Museum of medieval brâncovenească art, which displays paintings, manuscripts, illuminated books, cult items, gold-plated Swiss mosaic and the votive painting of the Brâncoveanu family. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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PLACES OF WORSHIP
places of worship
Spend any amount of time in Romania and you are sure to notice the religious dedication of the people. You can find a church or cathedral around every bend in Bucharest and a cross where every poor soul has fallen. Aside from the grace of the regular Orthodox churches, a few attractions stand out as places worth visiting. 66 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
T
he first is the Patriarchal Compound just off Piata Unirii. The hilltop grounds function as the seat of the Romanian Orthodox Church and include the Patriarchal Cathedral (1658), the Patriarch’s Palace (1875), the ex-Chamber of Deputies (1907), a belfry (1698) and three 17th century stone crosses.
Photo: • The Patriarchal Cathedral and the Patriarch’s Palace
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PLACES OF WORSHIP
The oldest church in Bucharest, completely preserved, was built by Mircea Ciobanu (16th century) and it is placed inside the precincts of Curtea Veche, the first residence of the Wallahian rulers in Bucharest. The monasteries Radu Voda and Mihai Voda hail from the same century.
places of worship
Catholic BARATIEI CHURCH 27, I.C. Bratianu Blvd. Ph: 021-311-0809 Open only on Sun. SACRE COEUR CATHOLIC CHURCH 1-3, Gheorghe Dimitriade Str. Ph: 021-319-7070/60 Services in Romanian, French, English and Arab (Sat.) ITALIAN CHURCH (ROMAN CATHOLIC) 28, Nicolae Balcescu Blvd. Ph: 021-314-1857 Services also in Italian, Polish and Spanish SF. IOSEF CATHEDRAL (ROMAN CATHOLIC) 19, Gral. Berthelot St. Ph: 021-315-4955, 021-5406 MAICA DOMNULUI CHURCH 39, Sirenelor St. Ph.: 021-410-7356
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Bahai MEETING CENTER 27, Magheru Blvd., 3rd floor, apt. 24 Ph: 021-312-9506
Islamic THE MOSQUE 4, Constantin Manescu St. Ph.: 021-221-9732 Winter 12:20, Summer 13:30 Most services in Arabic THE ar Rahman MOSQUE 50-52, Muntii Gurghiului St., within thn Islamic Cultural Center Ph.: 0722-731-471
Photos: • Radu Voda Monastery (left) • Saint Anton - Old Court Church
Jewish THE CHORAL TEMPLE 9-11, Sfanta Vineri St. Ph: 021-312-2196 Opened to visitors and services after heavy renovation works THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE 11, Vasile Adamache St. Built during 1845 -1846 by the Ashkenazi PolishJewish community with an impressive mixture of baroque and rococo architectural style, this is the first big religious edifice of the Jewish culture in Romania. Since 1992, the Great Synagogue hosts the exhibition The Memorial of Jewish Martyrs. Visiting hours: Mon – Thu 08:30 – 15:00, Fri & Sun 08:30– 13:00. Prayer Hours: Morning Prayer Sun - Fri 08:00, Evening Prayer Sun - Fri 17:30, Sabbath 12:30.
Orthodox CASIN CHURCH 16, Marasti Blvd. Ph: 021-222-6685 DOMNITA BALASA CHURCH 60, Sfintii Apostoli Petru si Pavel St. Ph: 021-335-4789 SFANTUL ELEFTERIE CHURCH 2, Elefterie St. Ph: 021-410-8095 Service Sun. 09:00 - 12:00 SFANTUL ANTON CHURCH 33, Franceza St. Ph.: 00722-607-103 PATRIARHIA ROMANA 25, Dealul Mitropoliei Alley. Ph.: 021-406-7467 This cathedral holds the relics of Saint Dimitrie, Patron Saint of Bucharest. Greek CHURCH 1-3, Pache Protopopescu Blvd. Ph: 0723-535-962
Protestant and Neo-Protestant THE CHRISTIAN BAPTIST CHURCH 9-11, Dambovitei St. Ph: 021-430-1060 Services in English EVANGELICAL CHURCH 2, Luterana St. Ph: 021-313-3165 Services in German ANGLICAN CHURCH 2A, Xenopol St. Ph: 0744-568-000 Services in English, Sun. 10:00 REFORMED CHURCH 97, Viilor St. Ph: 021-335-9918 Services in Hungarian REFORMED CHURCH “CALVINEUM” 13Bis, Luterana St. Ph: 021-314-4496 Services in German THE SEVENTH DAY ADVENTIST CHURCH 38-38A, Erou Iancu Nicolae St. Ph: 021-269-0338
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TRANSPORTATION
public transportation Bucharest’s history of public transportation starts in 1871 with the appearance of the first horse-drawn trolleys. These trolleys worked alongside the electric trams, installed in 1894, until their removal from service in 1929.
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Photos: • The Basarab bridge (on top) • Bus and tram lines at Army Club, Calea Victoriei (Victory Rd.) and Queen Elisabeta Blvd. crossing
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TRANSPORTATION Photo: • Unirii Blvd. at night
T
he first bus line opened in 1925, followed by the introduction of trolley buses in 1949. Subway transport is the city’s most recent addition to transportation; the first line opened its 8.1 km of track in 1979. Today there are 4 lines with some 68.20 km of track, 51 stations and the average distance between two stations is 1.5 km, and the system is expanding. The city has been working to improve and update its transit services since 1990, implementing changes that range from the installation of more comfortable trams and buses to the placement of city maps outside most subway stops. However, route maps for trams and buses are not publicly posted, so please ask a reliable local for the correct bus number for your desired destination. City maps and guides can be found in local tourist magazines, at some street-side kiosks, or at the reception desks of most major hotels. Public transportation is, for the most part, clean and safe, but can become quite crowded during peak hours (weekdays 07:00 – 09:00 and 16:00 – 18:00). Look out for pickpockets! Public transportation runs daily from 05:00 to 23:30, with reduced service on Sundays. Metered taxis can be ordered
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by phone, hailed on the street, or hired from taxi stands and offer reasonable rates. Major international car rental companies as well as locally owned car rental agencies are well represented. However, parking in mid-city is becoming a bit of a problem, as is traffic congestion. Driving in Bucharest is an experience not to be undertaken lightly. Most of the main thoroughfares are well maintained, but once you venture off of those main roads, you may find yourself cruising across bumpy cobblestones, massive potholes or even unpaved roads. Many street names are not easily visible; when they are posted, you will see the signs, attached to the sides of some buildings. Bucharest’s drivers are among the most impatient in the world - traffic moves quickly, horns are used frequently, and traffic lanes are regularly not respected. Yielding to pedestrians can be taken to extremes, so watch for sudden braking vehicles, and be careful when passing stopped cars at intersections as well as pedestrian crossings. Getting around this city can be as simple or as luxurious as you want it to be. Have a great time exploring Bucharest, with whatever mode of transportation you choose!
the metro
AN EMERGENT OPERATING SYSTEM
T
he Metro is an underground urban railway network that serves the capital of Romania. It is one of the most accessed systems of the Bucharest public transport network. The subway system of Bucharest – the Metro, is one of the most important and useful transportation system, especially since the ground public transportation is mostly suffocated by the increased number of cars running or parked everywhere on the streets. The earliest plans for a Bucharest Metro were drafted in the late 1930s, alongside the general plans for urban modernization of the city. In 1938, the local authorities assigned the task of planning and constructing the subway system to S.A. Metropolitanul, with
work scheduled to start in March 1941. The outbreak of World War II, followed by periods of political tensions culminating with the installation of communism, put an end to the initial plans. By 1970, the public transport system (ITB) was no longer adequate due to the fast pace of urban development, although the system was the fourth-largest in Europe. A commission was set up, and its conclusion pointed to the necessity of an underground transit system that would become the Bucharest Metro. The system is regarded as maybe the only successful result of the Communist policies towards the planning of Bucharest. Amidst the disastrous systematization and rather unnecessary construction projects Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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TRANSPORTATION
© www.metrorex.ro
© www.metrorex.ro
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such as Casa Poporului, this was one of the few projects that really improved the living standards of the residents. Works have started shortly after the first plans emerged. There were four major construction sites along Dambovita River in the spring of 1975; first works kicked off on Line 1 under adverse soil conditions. Research institutes and specialized university construction departments, contractors and equipment suppliers have put in their stamina working hard as a team which made possible the starting in less than two years of four underground tunnels in the city’s eastern part. All the above works have been performed through computer-assisted design, using modern management methods and programbased coordination of underway projects. The highly qualified staff employed state-of-theart equipment and technology. The first line - M1 - of the Bucharest Metro opened in 1979 between Timpuri Noi and Semanatoarea. In 1981 the eastern extension to Republica opened. Two years later, in 1983, also the western branch to Industriilor began operating. As part of a future circular line this line was extended to Crangasi (1984) and finally to Gara de Nord (North Railway Station) in 1987. In 1991, Pantelimon station opened at the nearby depot. At the same time also line M2 (northsouth, 18.7 km) began operating in 1986, along the southern section, Piata Unirii I.M.G.B. and one year later also along the northern section, Piata Unirii - Pipera.
The third line - M3 - was actually designed to become a circle line, but it was initially operated together with the first line. The section between Gara de Nord and Dristor was opened in 1989. Currently M3 operates along the Eroilor - Industriilor branch whereas M1 serves the Republica branch and the northern circle. Line M4 from Gara de Nord via Basarab to Parc Bazilescu opened on March 1, 2000 (4.9 km). Basarab is a 4-track station with M1-tracks between the M4-tracks, allowing comfortable transfer between the two lines. A south-eastern branch of the first line already link N. Grigorescu to Anghel Saligny (4.7 km), while a northern branch for line M4 from Parc Bazilescu to Straulesti (3.1 km, 2 stations) is still under construction. Eventually this line might run through the city centre (Izvor - M1, Eroii Revolutiei - M2) to Gara Progresul. There are also long-term plans for line 5 from the south-west to the north-east through Eroilor, Universitate and Obor, plus an eastern branch from Universitate towards Pantelimon via Iancului. Romanian stateowned subway company Metrorex already auctioned the pre-feasibility and feasibility studies for works on the new subway mainline which will link southwestern Bucharest neighborhood Rahova to northeastern Colentina. The future subway line will be about 21 kilometers long and will most likely have 31 stations. The technical and economic indicators needed to start works were ready in 2011.
Š www.metrorex.ro
Works on the Rahova-Colentina mainline would last about eight years. According to the project approved by the General Council of Bucharest, the Airport line would be a branch of the current M4. It would diverge from M4 at station 1 Mai, head east with stations Pajura, Expozitiei, Gara Baneasa (Baneasa Railway Station), then north on the previously proposed alignment with stations Baneasa neighborhood, Aurel Vlaicu Airport, Baneasa Institute, Baneasa Meteo, Privighetorilor, Padina, Centura Otopeni, Otopeni South, Otopeni Center, Otopeni North, Henry Coanda Airport and Otopeni Depot. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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TRANSPORTATION
getting around Air Travel Bucharest has two airports: Otopeni handles most international flights, while Baneasa, a few miles closer to the city, serves mainly domestic destinations and low cost companies. TAROM, the national airline, offers international flights to European and world-wide destinations as well as daily flights to major Romanian cities, including Constanta and Tulcea during the summer.
(
The letter/number combination 7D ) inside the listings represents coordinates for map localization. See map in the beginning of the book
Airports HENRI COANDA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (OTOPENI) For international and domestic flights • Switchboard Ph.: 021-204-1000, 021-204-4000; • Customs: 021-204-1560; • Lost luggage: 021-201-4976 • Airport Police: 021-201-3242 AUREL VLAICU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (BANEASA) For domestic and international business flights Ph.: 021-9371; 021-232-0020, extention 131, 132
Airlines Aegean: Henri Coanda Int’l Airport. Ph: 021-204-1968; 021-201-4550 Aeroflot 5C : 2-4, Gheorghe Manu St. Ph: 021-315-0314; Fax: 021-317-2826 Air France 6C : 85, Calea Buzesti, 2nd floor. Ph.: 021-206-9200; 021-206-9222 Air Lingus Irish Airlines: Ph.: 021.315.1359, Fax: 021.307.91.75 Air Malta (GSA): 14-22, Soseaua Bucuresti – Ploiesti, Bl. XIII/2, ground floor; Ph.: 021-201-1851 Air Moldova 7E : 52, Frumoasa St., Apt. 15; Ph.: 021-315-5114; 021-315-5140 Alitalia 6D : 25, Italiana St., Ph.: 021-318-7661/2 Austrian Airlines 5D : 9A, Aleea Alexandru. Ph.: 021-204-4560; 021-204-8428. Not open to public
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blu Air: 42-44 Soseaua Bucuresti - Ploiesti Baneasa Business and Technology Park, A Bldg., A Wing, 3rd and 4th floors. Ph.: 037-428-1841 British Airways 7D : 28-30, Academiei St., Excelsior Centre, 9th floor. Ph.: 021-303-2222 Bulgaria Air: 44, Vasile Lascar St., Apt. 1 Ph.: 021-211-8552 Fax: 021-211-8552 CSA 7D : 22, N. Caramfil St., 1st floor, App.105. Ph.: 021-223-3205; 021-223-0988 Cyprus Airways: Ph.: 021-232-0331 Fax: 021-204-2501 EASY Jet: Ph.:021-204-2003 EL AL: 11, Dimitrie Cantemir Blvd, Block B2, Entrance 2, 4th floor. Ph.: 021-317-8866 Emirates (GSA) 5C : 57, Dr. Iacob Felix St, 1st floor; Ph.: 031-403-5039
Fly Dubai: 57 Dr. Felix St., 1st floor Ph.: 031-403-5045 KLM: 85, Buzesti St., 2nd floor, Ph: 021-206-9222; Fax: 021-206-9211. Lufthansa 6D : 9A, Aleea Alexandru, Ph: 021-204-84-10. Not open to public. Lot : Henri Coanda Otopeni Int’l Airport 224E, Calea Bucurestilor; Ph.: 021-204-2194 Niki (Air Berlin): Ph.: 031-826-0160 Olympic Air: Henri Coanda Otopeni Int’l Airport 224E, Calea Bucurestilor; Ph.: 021-204-2194; 021-204-4814 Quatar Airways: 47-53, Lascar Catargiu Blvd., Europe House, 3rd floor; Ph.: 031-101-2110, 031-101-2115 Regional Air Services - Air Taxi: Tuzla Airport, Constanta County Ph.: 037-539-0390, Fax: 0241-733-450 Romavia: 1, Zborului St., Otopeni, Ilfov, Ph.: 0734-105-719 SN Brussels Airlines (GSA): 14-22, Soseaua Bucuresti – Ploiesti, Bl. XIII/2, groundfloor; Ph.: 021-599-0102 Swiss Int’l Air Lines: Ph: 021-312-0238; Fax: 021-204-8426 Tap Portugal: Ph.: 021-204-2194 Fax: 021-201-4814 Tarom: • 17, Splaiul Independentei; Ph.: 021-9361, 021-316-0220. Fax: 021-316-44-44. • 59-61, Buzesti St (Victoriei Sq); Ph.: 021-204-6401/02/04/08; Fax: 021-204-6424 Turkish Airlines: 35, Nicolae Balcescu Blvd.; Ph: 021-311-3210; Fax: 021-311-2920 Vueling: Ph.:021.204.21.94 Fax: 021-201-4814
Private Flights Eurojet: Ph.: 037-422-2777 Fax: 037-422 2999 Ion Tiriac Air: Sos Bucuresti-Ploiesti, Km 16,5; Ph: 021-230-6081, Fax: 021-204-2224 InterAviation Charter: • Business office: Str. Garlei, nr.1E, • Headoffice: 2, Regiei Blvd, corp 23, Sect.6 Ph.: 0314378161, 0756192600 Fax: 0314378162. office@interaviation.eu
train stations The Romanian railway network is well developed, quite cheap and generally runs on time. Regio trains run painfully slow, stopping at every spot possible. Interregio trains stop only in major cities or towns. Intercity, Euro city and Euronight trains are faster and slightly more expensive. Ticket lines can be long, so plan to arrive early if you are purchasing a same-day ticket. Advance purchases of tickets must be done at ticketing offices as opposed to the ticket counter at the station, at travel agencies, or via internet. Sleeping compartments in over-night trains must be booked in advance. For train schedule you can find updated information on www.cfr.ro GARA DE NORD Bucharest’s main station, all international trains arrive and depart here. Gara de Nord Square. Information office Ph. 021-9521, 021-319-9528 ext. 134563 GARA BASARAB Local trains. 2, Orhideelor Ave. Information office Ph.: 021-319-9539 ext. 134613 GARA BANEASA 1, Nicolae Minovici St. Information office Ph.: 021-223-0880 GARA OBOR (EST) 1, Bulevardul Garii Obor. Information office Ph.: 021-252-0204 GARA TITAN (SUD) Basarabia Blvd. Information office Ph.: 0736-332-616 Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Municipal Transportation Subway Bucharest has a four-line underground metro system (M1, M2, M3, M4) that services the entire city. Subway connection via the M1 (yellow line) to the main train station (Gara de Nord) is an easy way to catch national and international trains. The M2 (Blue line) runs along Boulevard Balcescu, providing easy access to the city center. The subway uses magnetic tickets bought at subterranean kiosks near the entrance gates of each metro stop. A ticket for two entrances to the subway costs 4.00 Lei, a ten-trip pass costs 15.00 Lei, a day pass costs 6.00 Lei, a 62-trip monthly pass costs 50 Lei, a no-limit 7 day pass is 20 Lei, and a no-limit monthly pass costs 50 Lei.
M6 Project Ion I.C. Bratianu
Depou Straulesti
Straulesti
Otopeni Bruxelles
M4
Paris
Lac Straulesti
Washington
Under Construction Tokyo
Parc Bazilescu Pajura
Laminorului
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Pipera
Aurel Vlaicu
Piata Montreal
Aviatorilor
Grivita Basarab Crangasi Petrache Poenaru
M3
Gorjului
Pacii
Favorit
Romancierilor Valea Argesului
M5
Drumul Taberei
Under Construction
Stefan Cel Mare
Hasdeu Cismigiu
Tineretului Eroii Revolutiei
Under Construction
Piata Romana
Pantelimon Piata Iancului
Universitate
Piata Muncii Piata Unirii Dristor Timpuri Noi Mihai Bravu
Titan
Constantin Brancoveanu
Aparatorii Patriei
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Costin Georgian
1 Decembrie 1918
Anghel Saligny
Nicolae Teclu
A2
Dimitrie Leonida Berceni
• Subway passes
Republica
Nicolae Grigorescu
Piata Sudului
Photos:
M5
M1
Obor
Academia Izvor Militara Orizont
Tudor Vladimirescu
Valea Ialomitei
Piata Victoriei
Gara de Nord 1 Grozavesti
Politehnica
Preciziei Parc Drumul taberei
Gara de Nord 2
Eroilor
Lujerului
M2
Aeroport Baneasa Gara Baneasa
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Jiului
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subway map
Aeroport Henri Coanda Otopeni
M2
M3
Bus & Tram Loyal Travelers Card - With the implementation of the Active Card the operator, RATB, provides users of the public urban transport the first electronic card. Active is a modern card that addresses both loyal travelers and casual travelers as well and can be purchased first free, based on the ID, at the card issuing centers. Depending on the needs of the passengers, the card can be used both in the urban transport network, as well as Metrorex subway network. Casual Travelers Card - This card is only used in urban transport network, especially for the occasional travelers. It can be purchased for a fee from the sale units of RATB network. Titles available for Multiple card loading are one day subscription. Multiple cards do not reload, the support plate cost adds at every purchase. There are also reloadable Active cards valid for 1, 7 and 15 days. E-wallet Option - Electronic Wallet Card is an active feature that can be activated by the sale units RATB network, independently or in parallel with another way of travel. The electronic wallet charging request along with a subscription, minimum credit that can be charged is 2.6 lei and maximum is 50 lei.
Rent a Car Taxi Cobalcescu Ph.: 021-9451 Elegance Taxi Ph.: 021-9688 Eurostil Taxi Ph.: 021-9426 Fly Taxi Ph.: 021-9440 Taxi DArtex Ph.: 021-9630 Driving in Romania The legal speed limit is 50 km/hr in cities, 90 km/ hr outside the city and 120 km/hr on highways. Driving above these limits will result in fines with the possibility of losing your license. Most international driving licenses are accepted in Romania, but check with the rental company to be sure. Some rental car companies also provide the service of hiring a car with a driver. A blood alcohol level of any kind is not tolerated, and talking on a cell phone while driving is also prohibited. Taxi Companies Bucharest has an abundance of taxis. Licensed taxis are yellow and have black and white registration numbers painted on their sides. Taxis run on meters and charge about Euro 0.35/km. The best way to proceed is to order a taxi by phone.
Getax Ph.: 0762-243-829 Taxi Flamingo Ph.: 021-9427 Getax Furgonete Ph.: 021-9541 Grant Taxi Ph.: 021-9433 Taxi Leone Ph.: 021-9425 Taxi Mondial 021-9423 Meridian Taxi 021-9444 real Taxi Ph.: 021-9449 Pelicanul Taxi Ph.: 021.9665 Speed Taxi Ph.: 021-9477; 021-9488 Taxi 2000 Ph.: 021-9494 Taxi AS Ph.: 021-9435 Taxi Titan Ph.: 021-9661
Autogeneral Ph.: 021.9401
Touring Taxi Ph.: 021-9465
Cris Taxi Ph.: 021-9461; 021-9466
Taxi Tess Ph: 021-9638
Cars can be rented in a variety of places. Several offices are available in the Arrivals Hall at the Otopeni International Airport and most upscale hotels. Major cities in Romania are also covered for both pick-up and collection services. Active Rent a Car: Reservations: Ph.: 0727-644-644 www.active-rentacar.ro Avis: Reservations: Ph.: 021-210-4344, www.avis.ro; Bavaria Rent a Car: Reservations: Ph.: 0730-333-705, Head Office: 0730-333-707 www.bavariarent.ro compact leasing: Head Office: Ph.: 021-312-9857; 0744-586-724; 0744-638-292. Fax: 021-312-9982. www.compact-rentacar.ro Compact Premium: Head Office: Ph.:021- 312-9857; 0744-586-724; 0744-638-292. Fax: 021-312-9982. www.compact-rentacar.ro hertz Rent a Car: Reservations: Head office - Ph.: 021-407-8200 Henri Coanda Intl’ Airport -Ph.: 021-204-1278 www.hertz.ro Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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LEISURE ACTIVITIES
leisure activities SCENT OF THE PAST
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During summer or spring days, then maybe any time of day, if it’s winter, then immediately after sunset, a mass of young people head to a special area of the city called either historic Bucharest or the old city, or simply the Lipscani area. Almost overnight, this part of Bucharest became the main attraction, and the real Downtown. It is the few square blocks between Splaiul Independentei, I.C .Bratianu Blvd., Calea Victoriei and Elisabeta Blvd. and a few adjacent streets.
Photo: • The National History Museum view from Franceza Street Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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BISERICA SF. ANTON HANUL 18 LUI MANUC Ha
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kilns, pottery artisan’s kilns, workshops of tanners, furriers, tailors, merchant houses). The most famous street, Lipscani street of today, has been on record since 1589. It seems that its name comes from the merchants who came here from Leipzig (Lipsca, in old Romanian). to sell their goods. The street starts at Anghel Saligny street and ends at Calea Mosilor. In the past it was one of the most important commercial areas of Bucharest. The buildings, many in the Neoclassic and Neo-Baroque styles of the 19th Century, were nationalized in 1948, and began their degradation in the 80s (after the 1977 earthquake). The deterioration
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ere there is a mix of suburban, old houses from the past two centuries, a few modern buildings which maintain the vintage spirit, plenty of terraces (during the summer) and some shops reminiscent of the old commercial tradition of the area. Redevelopment of the area (infrastructure rehabilitation and reconstruction of some landmark buildings), took many years, and partially improved things, but the results are still far from what this area can offer, as a touristic, commercial, or urban potential... Some of the street names recall the old manufactures (here there were blacksmiths
the old city map 1 The University 2 The National Army Club 3 The Russian Church 4 The Museum of Bucharest – Sutu Palace 5 Coltea Hospital – the first hospital in Bucharest 6 Police Headquarters 7 Villacrosse Arcade 8 The National Bank 9 Caru cu Bere - famous restaurant 10 Lipscani Theatre 11 CEC Bank – the first bank in Romania 12 The History Museum 13 Stavropoleos Monastery – built in 1724 14 Comedy Theatre 15 The Palace of Justice 16 The Princely Court 17 Saint Antoine Curtea Veche Church 18 Manuc Inn – built in 1808
continued after 1990, until the atmosphere of the past seemed to be gone forever. After the damage caused by the earthquake in 1977, the historic area of Lipscani was often in danger of demolition. During initial restoration work, ruins of several medieval inns were discovered under the street pavement, confirming the importance of the area between the 15th-19th centuries. Even before the official founding of Bucharest on September 20, 1459, Lipscani was the “heart” of the city. After the concentration of political and economic power in the Princely Court (Curtea Domneasca), around 1600, many companies and shops were established here, the area was inhabited by jewelers, hatters, shoemakers, furriers, tanners etc. Many streets in the area still retain the name of merchants and traders from those days. Beside Romanians, there were communities of Greek, Bulgarian, Serb, Armenian, Jewish, Albanian and Austrian merchants. This mixture of nationalities explains the development of multinational trade relations established in old Bucharest. If you were to imagine the period in time, you could see traders sitting in the street in front of their stores. Luxury and poverty, expensive and cheap merchandise mixed in the same way that the Eastern countries meet the West in this part of Europe. The area included many inns for traders who stopped in Bucharest to sell their merchandise, or were on their way to other cities. Most inns of that period did not pass the test of time. The only ones which remain today are “Hanul cu Tei” (1833) and “ Manuc’s Inn” (1808). One of the most famous buildings on Lipscani is the Gabroveni Inn (built in 1739), between Lipscani and Gabroveni streets, today it is in an advanced state of decay. At the opposite end of Lipscani street, near Calea Victoriei, is Smardan street, where you can see some bank buildings, dating from the 19th century, the National Bank (built between 1883 to 1885 and designed by architects Albert Galleron and Cassien Bernard in a Neo-classical French style), Ion Tiriac Bank, and the Bank for Agriculture. In the bank area, the National Bank of Romania,
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imposing and in perfect condition, makes the difference. Recently, the National Bank of Romania announced that it will take over the Romanian collection of postage stamps, besides its impressive collection of coins, and we expect they be placed in a museum for tourists, which will bring yet more visitors to the stately building. Given todays economic conditions, many of the old houses along the narrow streets still “wait” to be restored. The importance of Lipscani street in the popular culture of the moment has resulted in its name being given to the whole area by many of the visitors arriving here. When you walk on the back streets you are impressed by the architecture of the one-story houses, built in different styles (Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical, or sometimes a combination) with trim, balconies, Baroque balconies, facades in classic style and eclectic decorations. Nearby Stavropoleos street is famous for the Stavropoleos Church, built in 1724 by the Greek monk Ioanichie, and featuring the pure Romanian Brancovenesc style,with vegetal decorations, floral belt, pillars decorated with flowers. Outside the church is a “chiostro”, a courtyard where you can see the pillars, slabs and tombstones. This “chiostro” was designed by one of the most famous Romanian architects, Ion Mincu, who restored the church in 1899. Where Stavropoleos Street meets Calea Victoriei, is now a renowned restaurant and brewery (“Caru cu bere”). Both its front and interior, are constructed in a Neo-gothic style, pavement, pillars, arches, chandeliers, wooden staircase, furniture, murals on the walls and ceiling. The place was a meeting spot for Romanian writers and politicians who gathered here to talk and argue, in front of a glass of beer. Today you need an advance reservation to get a table. Across the street, on Calea Victoriei, the CEC Palace is an imposing edifice, built in eclectic French academic style by the architect Paul Gottereau. The palace is in a square shape, and a central dome with metal rails separated by glass, allowing light to enter. There are also four smaller domes, and the main entrance is a monumental archway
Photos: • Caru cu Bere On the right hand page: • CEC Bank (top) • Manuc Inn (bottom left) • Princely Court (bootom middle) • Smardan Street (bootom right)
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supported on the sides by two pillars in mixed style. Back on the Smardan street, you can see the richly decorated building of the House of Fashion (1881), built in a Neo-classic style combined with elements of the Renaissance, with a luxurious interior with marble staircases, columns with golden ornaments and stained glass. The Lipscani shopping area was extended around the Old Princely Court, on Royal Street (Domneasca, French Street today), the oldest street in Bucharest. In 1692 this street was paved with oak beams by an order of Prince Constantin Brancoveanu. It was built to link the Royal Court with Mogosoaia Bridge, today’s Calea Victoriei, which was the road to the summer residence of Constantin Brancoveanu in Mogoşoaia. Some of the oak beams which came from the rich forests in the Bucharest region, can be still be seen at the entrance to Manuc’s Inn (1804 - 1808) near the ruins of the Old Princely Court. The stories of princes and princesses of the Royal Court were also sustained by the passing of Vlad Tepes, on whom the myth of Dracula is based. He consolidated the city built at the end of 14th century by Mircea cel Batran (Mircea the Old One), and turned it into the Princely Court, similar to the one in Targoviste. Since then, the Royal Court began to develop and strengthen its role in the political relations between Romanian principalities. Today you can still see the Royal Palace, the Royal Court Church (Church of the Annunciation), the wine cellar, homes and gardens, all are the remains of the Royal Court Next to all this splendid architecture, of what has long been the center of Bucharest, the romantic air that this area exudes came to be easily overlooked. But step by step, through the rehabilitation of the historic center of Bucharest, this area is returning to life. Some streets have been repaved, some buildings were restored and Bucharesters started to promenade along these paths again, during warm summer evenings. Instead of the old shops and boutiques, some sporting goods stores, clubs with good music and
enticing terraces have emerged. The Cafes, clubs, restaurants and bars are already full all year around. The Lipscani area begins to take life again, and to form an identity after more than 20 years of neglect. It will never be what it once was, but who knows, maybe our grandchildren will also experience some of the feelings that also excited us, hearing stories from our grandparents, when we’ll tell them how we spent romantic evenings on Smardan terraces, and how we had fun in Club A or Iron City The best thing would be to go for a walk in the old city, and when you taste the beer from any one of the terraces, take a look at the past, admire the beauties of historic Bucharest. Stop to look at and learn the stories of historic monuments and other charming places: Manuc’s Inn, St. Dumitru of Sworn Church, Stavropoleos Monastery, Post Palace (now the National Museum of History of Romania), Caru cu Bere Palace, CEC Palace, Palace of the National Bank of Romania, the National Library palace, Hanul cu Tei, or the Villacross passage. That is the best way to get a feel of the “heart” of the City.
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at your leisure Health Clubs & Spa
alexandreea club fitness & spa: 37-39 Basarabia Blvd. Ph.: 031-432-9867; Open: Mon. – Fri. 08:00 - 22:00, Sat. – 08:00 - 22:00, Sun. 08:00 - 19:00. FitClub: With customized fitness routines and body rituals, FitClub invites guests to indulge in a new wellness dimension. 5 – 7, Calea Dorobantilor (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Hotel), 2nd floor; Ph.: 021-201-5077, Open Monday-Friday : 07:00 – 21:00 ; SaturdaySunday: 10:00-19:00. Fit & Fun Club: The club is complimentary to all hotel guests and offers the possibility to relax and feel in perfect shape at the same time. You can enjoy the swimming pool & whirlpool, sauna, Jacuzzi, or be active and try the fully equipped gymnasium or the tennis courts. Personal trainer available for a monthly fee. 1, Poligrafiei Blvd. (Crowne Plaza Hotel); Ph.: 021.224.00.34; Open: 08.00 – 23.00. Fitness Center at Promenada: 246B, Calea Floreasca, Ph.: 031-101-2490 Eden Spa: • 4, Pictor Ion Negulici St., Ph.: 021-316-8148; 0721-321-294. Open: Mon. – Fri. 09:00 - 21:00, Sat. 09:30 - 18:30, Sun. 11:00 - 17:00. • 56, Calea Victoriei Ph.: 021-310-6550, 0751-268-706, Open: 09:00 - 21:00 Floreasca Club: Members only. Indoors pool, body building center and outdoors tennis courts. 1, Mircea Eliade St. Ph.: 021-319-8177. Open: 08:00 - 22:00. Hilton Health Club: 1-3, Episcopiei St. (Athénée Palace Hilton Bucharest) Ph.: 021-303-3777 ext. 6808. Open daily 06:00 – 22:00. Japan Stone Spa: 5, Herman Oberth St., Ph.: 021-224-3237, Open: Mon. – Fri. 11:00 - 20:00, Sat. 10:00 - 18:00 Magnolia Spa: 20, Sperantei St. Ph.: 021-311-2779; Open: Mon. – Fri. 09:00 - 21:00, Sat. – Sun. 10:00 - 20:00. Novotel Bucarest City Centre Wellness Centre: After a busy day relax and unwind in the Wellness Centre situated on the mezzanine floor. Indoor swimming pool with artificial waves, fitness centre, gym, massage, hammam and Power Plate are at your disposal. Underground parking available. CC accepted. Novotel Bucarest City Centre - 37B, Calea Victoriei. Ph.: 021-308-8561. Open: 06:00 - 22:00. Premier Spa: 134, Ghencea Blvd., Ph.: 031-407-6010; 0733-223-300, Open daily: 07:00-21:00 STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB: Tennis courts, pools, squash courts, Jacuzzis, Saunas, Shiseido Spa, Pilates & Yoga Studio, Jogging track and many more. 14, Jandarmeriei St. Ph: 031-424-7051; 0744 332 155 Open: Mon-Fri: 06:00 – 23:00 Sat-Sun: 08:00 – 21:00
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Boating
Even though Bucharest is not a coastal resort, there are still opportunities to enjoy the pleasures of boating. Rental of rowboats, jet skis and small sailboats on the city’s lakes can be a fun way to entertain the whole family. Herastrau lake and its surrounding park, located in the northern side of the city, provides the largest outdoor entertainment area in Bucharest, while Snagov lake, much larger, is only 40 km far from Bucharest.
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Football Stadiums
Dinamo: Stadium with 20,000 person seating capacity, outdoor polo swimming pool, gaming hall, boxing hall, wrestling arena and fitness facilities. 7 - 9. Stefan Cel Mare Ave. Ph.: 021-210-6974. 021-210-7996 Rapid: 18, Calea Giulesti Steaua: 28,000-person stadium with artificial lighting and rugby grounds. 35, Ghencea Blvd. Ph.: 021-223-4490 The National Arena - Lia Manoliu National Complex: Capacity: 55,200 Football (Soccer). Surface: Grass. Owner: Municipality of Bucharest. 37-39, Basarabia Blvd. Ph.: 021-318-0080/81/82
Golf
Bucharest Golf Academy: Driving range; clubs and balls for rent. 3 km past the New American School, outside the village of Tunari. Ph.: 021-2221-9473. Open: 09:00 - 21:00. Diplomats Club: Outdoor pool, tennis and football courts, 8-hole golf course, table-tennis facilities and massage salon. 2B, Soseaua Bucuresti-Ploiesti; Ph.: 021-224-2941. Open: 07:00 - 22:00 Golf & Country Club Bucharest: 9, Episcopiei St. (office) Ph.: 0722-569-149, The course is situated in Zurbaua village, Ilfov county. Lac de Verde Golf Club: Located on a hill-side area, it organizes internationally recognized tournaments. Driving range, professional trainers, clubs and balls for rent. Small hotel and rooms to let. Restaurant, spa, sauna, Jacuzzi, pool, gym. Reservations recommended. C.C. accepted. 57 Caraiman St., Breaza (120 km from Bucharest). Ph.: 0754-093-291 Open: 08:00 - late night Selas Golf & Polo: DN1, Potigrafu Village Ph.: 0722-315-738
Tennis
Tennis is one of the most popular sports in Bucharest. There are public courts in most stadiums and in Herastrau Park. You can rent equipment and a court at Herastrau Park for a reasonable price. Some of the tennis complexes have lighting system for evening play. Lessons are available at most clubs and stadiums. Arenele Sportive BNR: These courts were built for international competitions. Weekends can be a bit crowded, but you may have the chance to train with top ATP players. Tennis equipment can be rented on the premises. 42, Dr. Staicovici St. Ph.: 021-316-9774 Livone Tennis Club: 13, Oltenitei Ave. Ph.: 021-332-5030.
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Horseback Riding
Even with its low publicity in Romania, horse riding is a sports or leisure activity that can be practiced in specialized places close to the city. They provide all the necessary equipment, also in the same places you can buy some items. Arkadia Horse: Ciofliceni village in Snagov; Ph.: 0722-243-227. Clubul de Echitatie Bucuresti (Bucharest Riding Club): Emil Racovita St, lacul Saulei Ph.: 0734-282-591, 0754-868-707. HorseLand: Gageni village, Paulesti 970, Prahova county Ph.: 0733-400-247 Equestria: Hipodromului FN, St., Tancabesti village, Snagov; Ph.:031.500.51.40, 0733.727.617 Equestrian Academy: 23-29, Zamfirei St, Mogosoaia; Ph.: 0721-207-798, 0767-154-460 Nana Farm: Nana, Calarasi county Ph.:0723-364-213, 0722-970-940
Parks
Bucharest has a wide array of parks — the following is a selection of the major ones. Be aware that walking on the grass it isprohibited.
Piccadilly Riding Club: 542, BucharestPloiesti Road; Ph.: 0725-031-111
CISMIGIU: 37, Schitu Magureanu Blvd.
Regatul Cailor (Horses Kingdom): Varlaam village, Adunatii-Copaceni, BucharestGiurgiu Road; Ph.:0735-001-122
HERASTRAU: 1-3, Aviatorilor Blvd.
Robin Hood: Potigrafu-Gorgota village (DN 1) Ph.: 0749-149-292
TEI TOBOC: Lacul Tei Blvd.
CAROL I: 4, Gen. Candiano Popescu St. BANEASA: 3, Aleea Privighetorilor TINERETULUI: Tineretului Blvd. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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shopping FASHION AND SMART SHOPPING Ana-Maria Popescu Despina Andrei
Fashion is a habit, a collective custom, specific to a social environment at a given moment. The term “trendy� usually applies to a person wearing clothes or accessories that fit the current trends. Fashion changes very fast; it is enough for someone to discover, at some point, something better and more beautiful, and everyone else will desire that thing, thus causing fashion to change at an incredible pace. 90 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
Photo: Baneasa Shopping City
F
ashion defines us as individuals, but also as social beings, and it can represent one of the key elements in sketching a monograph. But, beyond its practical dimension, it is also a huge industry, a sophisticated cultural construct.
Fashion, from industry to art The evolution of this phenomenon in the twentieth century has been spectacular. Voices have even been heard claiming that fashion might be considered some sort of science. Fashion has reached such an important status, that it has managed to change the perception of the human figure. The catwalk has encouraged the change of the concept of beauty from a full figure to a slim, some might even say emaciated, silhouette. You could say that, at a deeper level, fashion is the product of man’s need to invent everything in his power to make himself beautiful, once he becomes aware of his own beauty. What and how much is just a social convention and who determines those standards is another story. Since immemorial times, clothes have been a means of embellishment. Clothes can shape a figure, hide or reveal what is precious. Today, what sets one fashion trend apart from another is the line, the style and the topic, and, frequently even the colours. Today fashion design and presentation have become a genuine craze. Great designers have already entered history, and well-known brands are already family inherited global businesses.
Smart Shopping Smart Shopping is a concept defined as the consumers’ tendency to invest time and effort in order to look for and take advantage of any promotion and discounts, and it is actually a behavioral construct. The type of consumer, who possesses shopping skills, is defined by their conviction that activities such as the use of discount, magazine or competition vouchers, label reading and familiarity with the market, increase the efficiency of shopping and they set themselves rules to avoid the waste of resources and marketing traps. Psychologists claim that smart shopping brings considerable social and psychological benefits, since consumers feel proud and Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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pleased and their self-esteem increases the moment they manage to buy products which normally would be difficult for them to acquire. Everything may have started from the consumers’ need to be well-informed. They invest much time to collect information on a product. Many shoppers “do their homework”, since they believe that this is the way not to miss any opportunity, to close “the best deal” and find high quality at low prices. They browse magazines, web pages, the media, even the stores for “the when, the how, the how much?” related to discounts. They often even ask the personnel. Then, they draw up lists of future purchases and, obviously, the budget. For food, they read labels and choose the quantity depending on the expiry date of the products. Smart shopping depends on familiarity with the market (knowing when there are discounts) and certain skills (like the ability to effectively evaluate prices). Motivation is as practical as possible: the need or convenience of saving material resources. In some rare
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cases, there is also the shopping addict who buys for the mere pleasure of doing it. Smart shopping emerged in the USA in the sixties, with the opening of the first shopping centres of the outlet type. Then it spread to Europe and, for some time now, to Romania. Briefly, smart-shopping means to shop in an informed, planned and less compulsive manner. It is always a good idea to shop more carefully so as not to spend more than you planned to. Why is this trend so popular? Consumers claim that this is a means to cut on your costs without renouncing quality. You create original outfits and save up to 70%, because the products are either last year´s collections or manufacturers’ excess stocks. You can find the bargains at ‘outlet’ stores, the affordable type of store, whether you are looking for a special accessory, fashionable jeans or shoes for a special event.Here you can choose from a wide range of products to suit all styles and all budgets. It is frequently worthwhile to visit the web pages of the stores before going shopping. Although it may seem strange, but smart shoppers avoid clothing stores when there are big sales, because they may find it difficult to resist the temptation and risk buying things you do not actually need. Clothing has to be tried on, even though sometimes the price is low and regardless the crowd queuing in front of the dressing rooms.
Concept stores A new term referring to the fashion world has A new term from the fashion world has been in constant use for some time now: concept fashion. This means that there is no longer a mere collection, or just productions of brands with well-known identities, but there is a topic that creations have to comply with. Shop windows are very much organized thematically; some present larger displays, while others actually tell stories. They are similar to small scenes, with a sophisticated setting and fantastic characters. Nothing new, except that until recently they were rarities and were only created for special events,
like a product or brand launching. From store windows to an entire space organised following a concept it was only a small step. In Romania this is quite a new phenomenon, in important fashion cities such as Paris or London it has been in vogue for quite some time. A concept store is a genuine universe for those who wish to discover the new trends in design, painting or fashion. Every week the windows change the displayed items in order to recreate a new universe. What seems essential is that such a concept store also influences social life. Frequently, the stores organise a luxurious party, almost every month, where everyone who matters is invited.
Shopping Panorama Although the major investments are concentrated in shopping centers there are signs that medium and top brands are
branching onto shopping streets as well, tempting customers to buy in a less Romanian but more European way. Even the historical center has started to display some trendy coffee shops expected to be followed soon by art galleries and fashion boutiques.
Main Commercial Streets • Calea Victoriei: is by far the most popular area for up scale boutiques. If you want to take a look at the latest designer collections, this is the place. Walking from Victoriei Square towards the Dambovita River you will see: Burberry, Max Mara Flagship Store, Gerard Darel, Furla, Lancel, Frey Wille, Estee Lauder, J. Kristensen store, Coccinelle, Marella, Casa Frumoasa, Porsche Design, Gucci, Helvetansa (a store offering the top famous brands of watches like Audemars
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Piguet, Vacheron Constantine, Piaget, Longines), Micri Gold (multi brand sales of top jewelry brands), Emporio Armani, Mengotti and multibrand luxury menswear Alsa Uomo is the latest small jewel on this street announcing that big names may continue to appear on this market even under such tight economic conditions. On a small street starting from Calea Victoriei, near the Max Mara Flagship Store, the boutiques of the Romanian designers Adina Buzatu and Irina Schrotter display their newest creations. Just behind the Romanian Athenaeum is a very trendy multibrand shop - Raionul 4, presenting niche designers as Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Neil Barrett, Acne, Haider Ackermann and many more. • Magheru-Balcescu-Bratianu: a large street, with several names in three segments, is the most crowded avenue during weekends, thanks to plenty of fast food outlets and cinemas. There are shops here as well like: Marionnaud, Star Place, Stefanel Concept Store. • Calea Mosilor: another shopping street, with small stores, ranging from electronics to outlets for fashion and few sports stores. • Calea Dorobantilor: a newer commercial street on the fashionista map has
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few attractions: the Mario Plaza Shopping Center, Victoria 46 and Distinto: Moschino, Pollini, Baldinini and Casadei. Three mono brand stores are also located here: Brunello Cucinelli, Canali and Moschino. • The Historic Center: easy access from Calea Victoriei, a few streets which start at the National Bank building. The area is not yet fully rehabilitated, and you get a sweet and sour taste of beautiful architecture. Anyway, it deserves a walk, even if for not more than an hour. Stavropoulos Street, where you can also visit one of our jewel churches (with an eponymous name), is my favourite spot of the historic center where you will be able to take some nice photo’s to remember your trip. This is the area where you will find high concentration of art galleries. Even if short on time, please pay a visit to Hanul cu Tei, where you will see beautiful contemporary art works, mainly oil paintings and small sculptures downstairs and antiques, furniture, porcelain, art glass, jewelery, old coins, medals, clocks and collectibles upstairs. Interested in souvenirs? Pay a visit to Muzeul Satului or Muzeul Taranului Roman. The gift stores are usually open: Mon. – Fri.: 10 am – 8 pm, Sat.: 10 am – 3 pm. Enjoy the city and take a souvenir home with you from Bucharest!
GUBAN If you really want to get wind of Romanian design tradition and take a walk in our shoes, go step by step. Start with a GUBAN pair of shoes. It’s in the way she walks, she talks, and she unveils herself to the world: nothing compares to the elegance of the GUBAN Woman.
Defining Romanian Footwear since 1937 Charm, delicacy and dignity, these are all values that are passed from mother to daughter, from generation to generation, as precious gems of a national pride that exceeds all rough times, all hollow eyes and worried hearts. Furthermore, in Romania, there is another thing that a mother masters and may catch the daughter’s eye: the undebatable unquestionable unquenchable undeniable passion for shoes. For beautiful comfortable shoes, colorful and vivid, that make you want to dance, walk, show them around. For shoes that become part of your figure as they turn into natural elegant extensions of your personality, of your elegance. Because, yes, Romanian women are chic and coquette and, no matter what bite of history they got born in, they truly believed in the power of their femininity and in the power of a suitable red high heal. Consequently, once upon a time, a couple of long decades ago, somebody gave color to this love for passion of mothers and daughters everywhere. They gave it color, texture, design and an unbelievably comfortable boot tree. And then, they called it GUBAN. The GUBAN story begins in 1937 with only one employee and one box of shoe polish. Blaziu Guban was the man behind the idea, a modest man, schooled by the best master anyone can find: Passion for Beauty. He started with a small enterprise and worked up to an entire shoe manufacturing factory. Always perfecting and always learning from clients’ needs, the GUBAN specialists turned the brand into an iconic Romanian fashion vector, a symbol of femininity and elegance, that stood for the women’s right to stand out for the better and the worst course of history. For a long while, the GUBAN shoes were the lesson of honor every mother should have taught her daughter. Today, the GUBAN art is passed over to a new generation of craftsmen who follow the footsteps of the grandmaster Blaziu Guban with two main focuses: great design and great quality. 100% leather and suede shoes that come in all colors of the rainbow and in all forms of grace wait for you in all GUBAN stores. In Bucharest, GUBAN shoes are available in Baneasa Shopping City and Romanian Designers’ Gallery in Cocor. If you truly want to understand Romanian tradition, you should try walking in our shoes.
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SHOPPING GUIDE
shopping
guide
On the following pages, boutiques, major department stores and specialty shops and markets are grouped by the type of product they sell. Most establishments are open Monday to Saturday from 10 or 11 am to 6 or 8 pm closing time. Malls and other boutiques are also open during the weekend, though some may close earlier on Sundays. The number/letter combinations inside the listings are map coordinates. Locations marked in a dark blue square are situated in Old Town.
Promenada 2d : 246B Calea Floreasca
Shopping centers
Sun Plaza: 9e 391, Calea Vacaresti / 83 C, Soseaua Oltenitei
One can easily find ready-to-wear clothes, shoes, accessories, jewelry, watches, sportswear, lingerie, perfumes and gifts. Food courts can often be found on or near the premises. These shopping centers might be similar in many ways with those that you are already familiar with.
Unirea Shopping Center 6d : 1, Unirii Square World Trade Plaza 3b : 10, Montreal Sq.
Afi Palace Cotroceni 7A : 4, Vasile Milea Blvd.
Cash & Carry Metro: • Militari • Baneasa • Berceni • Voluntari
Baneasa Shopping City: 42D, Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti
Selgros: • Pantelimon, 90, Biruintei Blvd; • Baneasa, 55-65, Bucuresti-Ploiesti • Berceni, 92-108, Turnu Magurele St.
Bucuresti Mall 8F : 55-59, Calea Vitan Carrefour Militari Commercial Gallery: Autostrada Bucuresti-Pitesti, km 11/12
HIPERMARKETS Auchan: 33A, 1 Decembrie Blvd.
Cocor Store 7D : 29-33, I.C. Bratianu Blvd.
Carrefour: • Militari, Autostrada Buc-Pitesti, km11/12. • Colentina, Soseaua Colentina 426 426A; • Orhideea, 210, Splaiul Independentei, • Baneasa - Feeria, 44A, Soseaua Bucuresti Ploiesti • Unirii, 2, Corneliu Coposu Blvd.
Commercial Center Feeria: 44A, Sos. Bucuresti Ploiesti Commercial Center Orhideea 6A : 210 - 210 B, Spl. Independentei
Cora: • Lujerului, 19, Iuliu Maniu Blvd. • Pantelimon, 20, Sos. Vergului
Esplanada Shopping Center: 20, Sos. Vergului.
Billa: • 102-104, B. Vacarescu St. • 23, Brasov St. • 24, Postavaru St.
GALERIILE TITAN 8G : 6A, Liviu Rebreanu St
Ikea: 42A, Soseaua Bucuresti Ploiesti
Grand Arena Mall: 12, Metalurgiei Blvd.
XXL: 38-40, Soseaua Fundeni
Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery 8B : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie
Department Stores
Jolie Ville Galleria: 103 Bis, Erou Iancu Nicolae St. Liberty Center 9C : 151-171, Progresului St. Mario Plaza Shopping Center 4d : 172, Calea Dorobantilor Shopping: 546-560 Iuliu Maniu Blvd Militari Shopping: 546-560 Iuliu Maniu Blvd. Plaza Romania: 26, Timisoara Blvd.
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(
The letter/number combination 7D ) inside the listings represents coordinates for map localization. See map in the beginning of the book
Old department stores in Bucharest are in a transition period. Besides specialized departments, it is not unusual to find a large number of small private “Turkish-bazaar” type stands inside. Crowded but convenient because of their diversity, the Bucharest department stores offer low- to mid- sometimes even high- quality products. Galeriile Victoria 6d : 17, Calea Victoriei Bucur Obor: 2, Soseaua Colentina
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Supermarkets There are stores in each section of town that present a complete range of products, from European to American, Arabian and Asian. Many world-wide brands are available. Prices may differ slightly because of the location of the store (downtown – periphery) or the availability of products. Mega Image: Every neighborhood has at least one! Profi: Every neighborhood has at least one! Cosmetics & Beauty Beauty Shop: • 8f Bucuresti Mall • 6d 27-33, Magheru Blvd. • 26, Timisoara Blvd. - Plaza Romania Clinique 6d : 100, Calea Victoriei Douglas: Baneasa Shopping City • Sun Plaza • Unirea Shopping Center • Promenada Mall Sephora: Orhideea Shopping Center • 2d Promenada Mall Estee Lauder 7d : 100, Calea Victoriei KENDRA Beauty Cosmetics • AFI Palace Cotroceni 7a • Galeriile Titan 8g • Unirea Shopping Center 6D Marionnaud: • 7A Afi Palace Cotroceni • 7d 27, I Campineanu St. • 6d 14-16, CA Rosetti St. 8e Unirea Shopping Center • Mario Plaza Shopping Center 4d • Carrefour Militari Gallery, • Carrefour Colentina Gallery, • Selgros Baneasa • Selgros Berceni, • Selgros Pantelimon Fashion for KIDS Petit’s: Latest designer collections for youngsters from 4 to 14. Baby Dior, Monnalisa, Miss Blumarine, Cavalli Angels & Devils, Moncler, Moschino, Fendi Kids, Lanvin. Baneasa Shopping City groundfloor Z: 8f Bucuresti Mall, 1st floor • 6A Orhideea Shopping Center • 8d Unirea Shopping Center Fashion ALFRED DUNHILL 8B : The British luxury brand for men 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery) alsa uomo 6c LMultibrand luxury menswear: CORNELIANI – top-of-the-range menswear and accessory new collections; MORESCHI - luxury shoes PEROFIL underwear SLOWEAR – Incotex pants, Zanone knitwear, Glanshirt, Montedoro outerwear & accessories MALO. Starting fall/winter 2014 season new brands available: HERNO and CHURCH’s – one of the world’s leading premier footwear brands. 63-81 Calea Victoriei, Radisson Blu Hotel BAND OF CREATORS: 6D Clothes & accessories from top Romanian fashion designers 14, Benjamin Franklin St. – Showroom BRUNELLO CUCINELLI 6D : 198, Calea Dorobantilor Burberry 6c : 4 Luterana St. C & A: Fashion for Men and Women. • Militari Shopping • 7A Afi Palace Cotroceni • 2d Promenada Mall Cacharel: Fashion for Men. • Baneasa Shopping City • 2d Promenada Mall
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Canali 4d : 196, Calea Dorobantilor CASA FRUMOASA RADISSON 6C : Luxury men’s wear, handmade shoes & exquisite accessories from:Scabal,Salvatore Ferragamo,Santoni,Jacob Cohen. 63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson Blu Hotel CASA FRUMOASA STORE 5C : Luxury men’s wear, handmade shoes & exquisite accessories from:Scabal,Salvatore Ferragamo,Loro Piana,Brioni,Santoni,Lanvin Men,Jacob Cohen,Emanuele Maffeis,Zimmerli. 40, Lascar Catargiu Blvd. Coccinelle Shop 6c : Women handbags & leather goods. 63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson Blu Hotel, entrance from George Enescu St. Day & Night: Multibrand luxury store for young people. Dsquared, Juicy Couture, 2812 by Sienna Miller, Paul & Joe, MCQ by Alexander McQueen, Love Moschino, etc . Baneasa Shopping City DISTINTO 5D : – Italian fashion brands – a.testoni, Casadei, Giuseppe Zanotti, Henderson, Le Silla, Love Moschino, Pollini. 133, Calea Dorobantilor DOLCE & GABBANA 8B : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery)
Ego Men`s Fashion Concept: A multi-brand fashion boutique for men, housing international labels of clothes, shoes and accesories, including Tombolini, Louis Purple, Manuel Ritz, Carlo Pignatelli, Tateossian and more. The boutique presents different collections - from the classical rigor to casual outfits. Beside the ready-to-wear range of clothes, Ego Men`s Fashion Concept offers a premium made-to-measure suit service. • Flagship Store 2 Lascar Catargiu Blvd. • Baneasa Shopping City, groundfloor Elegance Boutique 6c : Ladies fashion & accessories from Elegance, Marc Cain, Basler Radisson BLU Hotel Bucharest - 63 – 81, Calea Victoriei entrance from George Enescu St. Emporio Armani Flagship Store 6d Luxury Men’s and Womenswear: Emporio Armani, Armani Jeans, EA7. 60-64, Calea Victoriei ERMANO SCERVINO 8B : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery) Escada 8b : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery) FURLA 6C – 112, Calea Victoriei GERARD DAREL 6C : • 118, Calea Victoriei • Baneasa Shopping City, groundfloor GUCCI 6D – 1-3, Episcopiei St.
H&M: • Unirea Shopping Center • 2d Promenada Mall JKristensen Store 6c : “Luxury ladies fashion & accessories from:Salvatore Ferragamo,Loro Piana,Fabiana Fillipi, Missoni, Blumarine, Roccobarocco, Elie Saab Radisson BLU Hotel Bucharest - 63 – 81, Calea Victoriei Lancel 6c : 112, Calea Victoriei Louis Vuitton 8b : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery) Mango: • 8f Bucuresti Mall • Plaza Romania MARELLA Franchisee 6C : womans wear Marella, Marella sport, Marella accessories. 63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson Blu Hotel Marks & Spencer: • 7d Bucuresti Mall • Orhideea Shopping Center Max Mara Flagship Store 6c Luxury Womenswear: Max Mara, Max Mara Elegante, Max Mara Bridal Collection, Sportmax, ‘S Max Mara, Max Mara StudioS, portmax Code, Max Mara Accessori, Max Mara Occhiali, Max Mara Bodywear, Max Mara Hosiery, Max Mara Profumi. 83, Calea Victoriei Mengotti 7d : Prada, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, Michael Kors, Parosh, Fratelli Rossetti, Halston Heritage, Alberto Guardiani, Fabi. 48-50, Calea Victoriei Welcome to Bucharest |
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Moda & Style: VEmilio Pucci, Gianfranco Ferre, Moschino, Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, Roccobarocco and Red Valentino Jolie Ville Galleria, first floor. MOLECULE F 6E : a small but refined part of the Romanian design 12, Popa Petre St - Showroom MOSCHINO 4D : 181, Calea Dorobantilor MUSETTE - Musette, Cristhelen B luxury shoes and handbags for ladies & Giannini shoes for men 96, Splaiul Unirii - Showroom 8E Afi Palace Cotroceni 7a Baneasa Shopping Center Bucuresti Mall 8f Unirea Shopping Center 6d 141, Calea Victoriei 6c Peek & Cloppenburg: Armani Collezioni, Hugo Boss, Vogue, Burberry, Lagerfeld, Calvin Klein Jeans, DKNY Jeans. • Baneasa Shopping City • 2d Promenada THE PLACE X 6C - Oscar de la Renta, Christian Louboutin, Jil Sander, Alexander Wang, Mcq Alexander McQueen, Marni, Carven, Kenzo, Missoni, Tory Burch, Linda Farow 83-85, Calea Victoriei PORSCHE DESIGN 6C : 63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson Blu Hotel Pull & Bear: Baneasa Shopping City raionul4 6D : 14-16, Nicolae Golescu St. River Woods: • 6A Orhideea Shopping Center ROBERTO CAVALLI 8B : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery) ROMANIAN DESIGNERS’ GALLERY 7D Cocor Store Seroussi 8f : Seroussi AFI Palace Cotroceni SPORT/COUTURE: unique shop-in-shop concept. Introduces special collection items and new brands such as Adidas Originals Blue Collection, Adidas Stella McCartney & Porsche Design, Puma (Rudolf Dassler, Mihara Special Editions), Fred Perry, Freddy, 7 for all mankind, True Religion, Adriano Goldschmied, La Martina, Liu Jo, Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli • Baneasa Shopping City-1st floor Steilmann: • AFI Palace Cotroceni • Bucuresti Mall • Baneasa Shopping City • Cocor • Liberty Center • Unirea Shopping Center Tudor. Personal Tailor: Made to measure suits and shirts for gentlemen. • 9D 95, Cuza Voda St. • 6D 1-3, Episcopiei St. Athenee Palace Hilton Galleries. U.S. Polo Assn: • Baneasa Shopping City • Promenada Mall Valentino 8b : 90, Calea 13 Septembrie (Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery) Victoria 46 4d : Multibrand luxury store. Balmain, Christian Dior, Current/Elliott, Gianvito Rossi, Givenchy, Jimmy Choo, Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent 126-130, Calea Dorobantilor Zara: • Baneasa Shopping City • Plaza Romania • Unirea Shopping Center • 2d Promenada Mall
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Jewelry & timepieces Gold jewelry with precious and semi-precious stones, silver jewelry, timepieces, purses and other similar goods from famous designers. A.David Gallery 6c : diamond jewelry, diamonds for investment; sole importer of Eberhard & Co watches in Romania 3, Luterana St. David Sandu Jewelry 7d : 26, Carol Davila St. Ellinas 8B Mikimoto, Boucheron, Pippoperez.Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery - 90, Calea 13 Septembrie Folli Follie: Jewellery, Watches & Accessories. • Baneasa Shopping City • Afi Palace Cotroceni Frey Wille 6d : Framed in 18 carat gold or gold-plated settings, each piece is a work of art in itself: the integrated design sets can be collected as one might collect fine art; also silk scarves and leather handbags, as well as men accessories: cufflinks, leather belts and silk ties. 118, Calea Victoriei
GALT OROLOGERIE ELVETIANA: watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin, Roger Dubuis, Zenith, Harry Winston, Hysek, IWC, Omega, TAG Heuer, Longines, Rado, Raymond Weil, Revue Thommen, Mondaine, Grovana; Pasquale Bruni – jewellery; Morellato – watch straps 5, George Enescu St 6D 153, Calea Dorobantilor 4D Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery 8b Helvetansa: Swiss watches: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Movado, Longines, Officine Panera, Piaget, IWC, Tissot, Rado, Vacheron Constantin, Carl F. Bucherer, jewelry from Piaget, Chaumet, Frieden, Leo Wittwer, Pilgrim • 88, Calea Victoriei 6d • 68-70, Calea Victoriei 7d ) KULTHO: watches and jewellery from Annamaria Cammilli, Breitling, Carrera y Carrera, Dior, Hermes, Roberto Coin, Versace • AFI Palace Cotroceni 7A • Baneasa Shopping City • 60-64, Calea Victoriei 6D • Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery 8b • Unirea Shopping Center 6D
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La Rosa 6D : means “Immortalize your love” with handmade luxury jewelry having a wide range of models (wedding rings, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, sets, jewelry for men and children, etc.) with diamonds and precious or semiprecious stones. 87-89, Calea Victoriei Mardikian 6D : 1-3, Episcopiei St. (Athenee Palace Hilton Galleries) OLIVER WEBER: Jewellery collection made with Swarovski elements Baneasa Shopping City OXETTE – Jewellery, Watches • AFI Palace Cotroceni 7A • Baneasa Shopping City • Bucuresti Mall 8F Pandora: • AFI Palace Cotroceni • Promenada Mall Rolex 8B Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery - 90, Calea 13 Septembrie • 6d 68-70, Calea Victoriei Sabion Galleries: Manufactured jewelry, precious metals, precious stones. • 6D 68-70, Calea Victoriei • Baneasa Shopping City groundfloor • 8g Galeriile Titan, 1st floor Vendome Fine Jewellery 6c : Based on exclusivity, experience and trust, VENDOME Fine Jewellery was opened to bring these values to Bucharest as you might find them in Paris, London, Milano and New York !…VENDOME Fine Jewellery is offering you the luxury jewellery with diamonds, pearls and natural precious stones (emerald, ruby, sapphire, etc…). Their high quality jewellery of 18k gold or platinum and the perfect cut, color and clarity of the precious stones are certified by the G.I.A (Gemological Institute of America). In the same time, you can find at VENDOME Fine Jewellery the most famous brands of watches. Radisson Blu Hotel Bucharest 63-81, Calea Victoriei Zehava Jewelry 6d : Gallery of hand crafted gold & precious stone jewelry. 5, Nicolae Golescu St . Zen Diamond: Baneasa Shopping City art galleries AnnArt Gallery 4C : 1, Mahatma Ghandi St. Caminul Artei 7d : 16, Biserica Enei St. ARTMARK 6D - Art gallery & Auction House 5, C.A. Rosetti St. - Cesianu Racovita Palace Gallery of the National Museum of Art of Romania 6d : 49-53, Calea Victoriei Hanul Cu Tei - Antiques, Art Galleries 7d : 63-65, Lipscani St., 1st floor. Orizont 6d : 23A, Nicolae Balcescu Blvd. Simeza 6d : 20, Magheru Blvd. Wagner Fine Arts and Fairytales 7b : Ana Wagner porcelain, special gifts. 19, Dr. Staicovici St.- showroom
Antiques Make sure you get a signed receipt when buying antiques in Romania. Ask about an export permit as well. Galeria Numismatica 7d : Coins, medals, banknotes-expertise & sale. 35-37, Academiei St. Hanul Cu Tei - Antiques, Art Gallery 7d : Antiques, furniture, porcelain, art glass, jewelery, paintings, decorative art, Oriental carpets, old coins, medals, clocks, icons & collectibles. C.C. accepted. 63-65, Lipscani St., 1st floor. Thomas Antiques 7d : combines the shopping experience with the atmosphere of an old, classy bar. Special book collection in the attic; great variety of antiques - furniture, clocks, wall clocks and standing clocks, paintings, decorative art, carpets and other various decorative objects. 19 Covaci St., Gifts “Craii De Curtea-Veche” 7d : Furniture, artifacts, photography, art deco, documents from the last period of the 19th century. 14, Covaci St. Romartizana 7d : 18-20, Calea Victoriei Sarra Blu’: • 8d Unirea Shopping Center • Commercial Center Feeria Totem: 8D Handicrafts & decorations from SouthEast Asia, India, Africa, South America; Aromatherapy items; Jewelery & fashion accessories; Personalized gifts. Unirea Shopping Center, 1, Unirii Square Wagner Fine Arts and Fairytales 7b : Ana Wagner porcelain, special gifts. 19, Dr. Staicovici St.- showroom Opticians Optica Malaga 6d : Large selection of top designer’s frames. 26, C.A. Rosetti St. Optiplaza: Top designer’s frames, sunglasses, accessories. • 8f Bucuresti Mall • 6A Orhideea Shopping Center • Plaza Romania Sover: • 5d 102-110, Calea Dorobantilor • 8d Unirea Shopping Center, Central wing ground floor. • 18, Vergului St. Cora • Esplanada Shopping Center Granitul • 7d Galeriile Victoria 17, Calea Victoriei • Sover Medlife 365, Calea Grivitei • Cora - Lujerului • Sover Bucur Obor, 2, Soseaua Colentina
Footwear Ecco: Men, women, kids & performance footwear. • Commercial Center Feeria • Baneasa Shopping City • Promenada Mall Geox: • Commercial Center Feeria • 8d Unirea Shopping Center • 7A AFI Palace Cotroceni groundfloor GUBAN: • Baneasa Shopping City • Cocor Store Humanic: • Baneasa Shopping City • Militari Shopping • Promenada Maftei 7b : Tradition of custom shoemaking since 19th century. 38, Luis Pasteur St. Mihai Albu 8b : Selling his own creations of leathergoods and Deluxe footwear. Grand Avenue Shopping Gallery Mihaela Glavan 8B : Romanian shoes label since 2003 – 104, Sabinelor St. Otter: • Commercial Center Feeria • 8d Unirea Shopping Center • Carrefour Militari Commercial Gallery • 8f Bucuresti Mall • 5f 235, Mosilor Ave. • 6A Commercial Center Orhideea • Plaza Romania • Militari Shopping • 7A AFI Palace Cotroceni • Esplanada Shopping Center. Sports & Travel Adidas: • 8f Bucuresti Mall • 2d Promenada Mall Decathlon: Militari Shopping Diadora: Auchan Hervis Sports: • 9c Liberty Center • Militari Shopping • 2d Promenada Intersport: • Bucuresti Mall • AFI Palace Cotroceni • Baneasa Shopping City • 2d Promenada Lacoste: • Baneasa Shopping City • 8f Bucuresti Mall • 2d Promenada Mall Lotto: • 6f 225, Calea Mosilor • Auchan - 33A, 1 Decembrie 1918 Blvd. Nike: • 7A Afi Palace Cotroceni • Baneasa Shopping City • 8f Bucuresti Mall • Plaza Romania • 8d Unirea Shopping Center Puma 8d : Unirea Shopping Center. Sergio Tacchini: Carrefour - Autostrada Buc.Pitesti km. 11-12
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Book Stores Bastilia 5d : 5, Romana Square Carturesti French Institute 6d : 77, Dacia Blvd. Carturesti Quinet 7d : 9, Edgar Quinet St. Carturesti Verona 6d : 13-15, Artur Verona St. Carturesti MTR 5c : 3 Kiseleff Ave. - Peasant Museum Humanitas Kretzulescu 6d : 45, Calea Victoriei Libraria din fundul curtii ( The Backyard Bookstore) 6c : 120, Calea Victoriei Noi 7d : 18, N. Balcescu Blvd. Interior Design
Romanian Handicrafts Obart 6d : Vases, glassware, contemporary icons. 20, Magheru Blvd. Curtea Sticlarilor 7d : Authentic glass artifacts made on the spot at Curtea Sticlarilor, a courtyartd dating back to 1857. 9-11, Selari St. Tobacco Shops La Casa Del Habano 6d : Large selection of original Cuban cigars; accessories. 1-3, Episcopiei St. Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest Wine & Liquor Shops Beros & van Schaik 7d : A lot of wine from France, Spain, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand as well as quality Romanian wines. 19, Covaci St.
Anatolian Carpet Boutique: Massive silver objects, Romanian Handicraft, glass objects, home life collection. Wide variety of handmade carpets 100% wool or wool on cotton • 4c 30, Aviatorilor Blvd. • 8d Unirea Shopping Center.
Ethic Wine – Wine shop - Vinoteca 4d : 55, Banu Antonache St.
Innova Interiorism 5d : luxury modern and classical furniture, home textiles & accessories 134, Calea Dorobantilor.
Vinlux 8c : Large selection of special Romania & Imported wines, cognacs, champagnes, whiskies, etc. 8, Libertatii Blvd., Bl. 115, ground floor
HALEWOOD – The Winery Outlet • 132, Sos Mihai Bravu, Bl. D21-D22 • 268-270, Calea Mosilor • 42-52, Ion Mihalache Blvd, Bl.35
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dining out Alivenci, nettle stew, chisăliţă, melon peel preserve, turte… Ana-Maria Popescu
Romania can seem a bit bizarre when you consider its cuisine. It owes much to tradition, which is most evident during the major holidays such as Christmas and Easter, when meals on Romanian tables are much the same as they were hundreds of years ago. Our cuisine has evolved as a synthesis of everything brought here by the many groups foreign invaders who were a part of our history. It is very eclectic and continues the habit of borrowing everything it can from any culture in the world. 104 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
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F
rench refinement was very much in vogue during the interwar period, when French culture was seen as the epitome of sophistication, and Romanian High Society was basically Francophone. More recently, some of the more radical eating trends have been adopted such as vegetarian and raw vegan, which are not necessarily related to Romanian culture, but can be traced to the multitude of foreigners who are visiting Romania. However fascinating a performance a city can offer, nothing is perfect without the dining culture. Bucharest restaurants are just as eclectic and colourful as the city itself. They are full; and they cater to all tastes. The offer includes every cuisine in the world, from French to Fusion and from sushi to Thai pad. People discuss everything at the table, and make important decisions while eating and feeling fine. People socialize. A wise ruler of Tara Româneasca one said that “politics is made of knives and glasses”. In fact, the feasts organised at cours of our nobles were famous all around the world. Our entire life, our life of a healthy, merry and hospitable people, has revolved and should revolve around our cuisine.
Photo: • Traditional Christmas specialties
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Romanian gastronomy Romanian gastronomy is varied and rich in tastes, colours and flavours, but few dishes can claim to be entirely authentic. Romanian cuisine has been strongly influenced in history by foreign traditions with which Romanians came into contact, and by their specific dishes. The dishes are not difficult to execute, they do not require any special equipment, and the ingredients are easy to find. Fresh ingredients are preferred, and much of the food reflects the season. Over time, the strongest influence has come from Balkan cuisine and not as much from the immediately neighbouring countries, like Germany, Serbia and Hungary. The recipes reflect the same influences as much of Romanian culture: from the Romans we have the word “placinta”, which has kept the initial meaning of the Latin term „placenta”, the Turks brought us meatball sour soup and baklava, the Greeks, the mousaka, from the Bulgarians we learnt to cook a large variety of plates based on vegetables such as the tasty zacuscă, while the schnitzel is borrowed from the Austrians. These are among the most popular dishes,
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which are prepared at home as much as in restaurants. Perhaps the most typical and purely Romanian dish is polenta, corn flour porridge, long considered the food of simple people, but highly appreciated by everyone today. It is eaten as an appetizer with a fried egg and sourcream, as a side dish, replacing potatoes or pasta and as part of a meat stew. While many Romanians prefer pork, they also eat beef, poultry, mutton or lamb. Traditional plates are cooked on holidays. At Christmas time, sausages, caltaboşi, liver sausages wrapped in pig intestines are made from pork. Piftia is also highly appreciated, is it a sort of jelly made from animal parts that are difficult to eat, such as the ears, the feet or the head boiled in aspic. Sarmale are a delicious mixture of meats wrapped in cabbage or vine leaves. As for desserts, the traditional cozonac, a sort of sweet pound cake, filled with nuts, Turkish delight or cocoa. At Easter we eat lamb, and the dishes specific to this holiday are roast lamb, drob - a baked mixture of organs, meat and fresh
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vegetables, mainly spring onion, and for dessert pasca, which is a specific pie with cheese and raisins. The main Romania drink is wine, with a local tradition exceeding two millennia. Romania is the ninth biggest world producer of wine, and the export market has started to expand in the last years. Many local brands are already known and appreciated: Feteasca; Grasa; Tămâioasa. But there are also the more generic names: Riesling; Merlot; Sauvignon Blanc; Cabernet Sauvignon; Chardonnay; Muscat Ottonel. Beer is consumed in large quantities thanks to the German influence. Last but not least, Romania is the world’s second largest producer of plums and almost the entire harvest of plums is used to make tuica, a distilled plum brandy. As Radu Anton Roman wrote in his wonderful book „Bucate, vinuri şi obiceiuri româneşti“: “Under the emphatic and narcissistic title of “Romanian cuisine” you may find almost all Turkish, Arabian, Austrian, Greek, French, Russian, Jewish, Polish dishes or even others, from farther places still. Mousaka, sour soup, meat and
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beans, pancakes and other “authentic” plates are nothing else but deposits, sediments of either the Ottoman occupation, the French, the German, the Greek or of many other influences”. But the writer also notes the existence of some of the traditional, national dishes, if not of an entire gastronomy. “However, most such dishes have not managed to preserve their original taste, they have been discretely adjusted to suit Romanians’ tastes to such extent that you can hardly distinguish the original theme”, the writer explains in the same book. Our gastronomic patrimony contains many dishes which are little known or hardly present on Romanians’ tables because they have lost the battle with globalization, fast food and half cooked meals: alivenci, nettle stew, chisăliţă, melon peel preserve, turte and many others. However, there are also some plates which are sure to persist. They are some of the most well-known and popular dishes which have become part of the Romanian gastronomic “patrimony”. Tripe soup can be found both in Turkey and in Greece, as well as in the Baltic countries, but has become a national asset, as Radu Anton Roman used to say, “not only
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due to its exceptional popularity, but also to its creative accessories – sour cream, egg yolk, soup vegetables and vinegar - which have made it our own “. Micii are also a national symbol, despite their Ottoman origin. “Turkish mici are one, and the mixture of three types of meat that Romanians make is a different thing” Radu Anton Roman wrote. Sarmale are just as deeply rooted in our culinary consciousness. So deep, that they are always present at weddings or funeral meals. “The Turks, the Greeks and the Polish also cook sarmale. But it is only we who make them like this, with smoked pork lard, rolled in cabbage leaves, with dill and sour cream, slowly simmering for days “. Pancakes fill up the role of a Madeleine for many of us. And even if you have tried them or cooked them following other recipes than the local ones, Romanian pancakes remind me of my childhood. “However strange it may seem, we are different even when it comes to pancakes! The French pancake is somehow tougher and spongier than the Romanian, cannot be re-heated because it breaks and dries (crepe!). The Russian pancakes, blini, are much thicker and with a more complex dough than ours.“
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Photo: • Rush hour in the kitchen
The new eating utopia An authority in nutrition in Romania, Doctor Mihaela Bilic has published a series of essays related to the real psychosis of socalled healthy eating, and a balanced diet. I simply love her position, just like many other people, who enjoy the taste of variety and acknowledge the social function of eating as being equally important in man’s life, or even more important than eating as mere food intake.
The smell of Romanian holidays I have recently heard someone say “I think something that could be called a country´s brand hides in the kitchens”. It was a discussion on the latest cooking festivals in Romania, on brunches in Ardeal organized by hearty people who are trying to keep and expand the traditions, on the new trends in terms of restaurants where, lately, there are smells of good warm food and where they cook based grandma’s recipes, on the new bio food fairs where people come from all over the country with preserves, honey, smoked cheese and meat. They are, or in fact were and have been, small entrepreneurs who do nothing else but carry on the recipes inherited in the family and cultivate them in the current context of dazzling consumerism. To me and to others like me, who have had enough of canned food, and who miss (and crave for) the food of their childhood, the holidays spent at the grandparents’ house, in the family, with the smell of sarmale and jumari, cozonac and pies, boiled tuica and warm bread.
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When there is cozonac on the table, it means there’s a holiday I am not afraid to call it the traditional dessert present on any occasion. It is associated with all the rites, from the rite of passage, there is no meal without cozonac, to those of rejuvenation and resurrection. And the winter holidays are not complete without cozonac on the table. It is omnipresent at Christmas meals next to a glass of red wine. At Easter it is a must and it is called Pască. The ingredients are available to all, and are not very sophisticated. Some flour, eggs, sugar, yeast, milk, salt, nuts and butter. Skilled hands, because kneading the dough and the incantation are the key, which turn it into a fairy tale sweet. Grandma knew that magic recipe and the entire house was filled with the sweet aroma of baking. When the cozonac was removed from the baking mold and, while still hot was torn to pieces and distributed to the impatient mouths. The dough is pretty much the same all over Romania. But the shapes of cozonac differ with the region and the cooks’ imagination. They can be long or round, simple or braided. In time, the recipe has been improved and what is currently called a filling no longer consist only of nuts, possibly with cocoa, as my grandmother used to bake, but it may also contain peanuts, poppy seeds, raisins, Turkish delight, dried fruit, sweet cheese (the
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restaurants - a selection To make your choice a bit easier, we have selected a number of places for you. The following restaurants currently advertise in our magazines or are otherwise worthy of note. The letter/number combination that follows the name of the restaurant represents the coordinates on our map. Hours, prices and entertainment are subject to change.
Orasul Interzis (Forbidden City) 6e : “Orasul Interzis” is the first luxury Chinese restaurant which aims at offering a true gastronomic experience due to the specialties that feed both the body and the soul. The restaurant as well as the terrace can host private and corporate parties, business lunch/ dinner, work groups, meetings and other events, in a selected and refined ambiance. Enjoy the exotic menu and the business lunch special offer, Monday to Friday, 12:30 to 16:00. For those of you who are very busy but still want to flatter their senses by trying these dishes, this little Asian gastronomic paradise can come to their homes. C.C. accepted, wireless Internet, air conditioned, smokers/ non-smokers area, home delivery.
3, Silvestru St. Ph.: 031 425 47 47; 0720 99 3333. Open: 12:30 – till the last guest. Seoul 3B : With international gastronomic awards,
Asian Cuisine 5 Elemente 6D : Authentic northern Chinese food using the best ingredients.
15, Icoanei St., Ph: 0766 33 1511 Open: 12:00 till the last guest Benihana Restaurant 6d : A unique “eatertainment” experience, a blend of Japanese culinary tradition and teppanyaki show. Skillful Asian chefs prepare the food right in front of your eyes, tantalizing your senses. For any lover of premium-quality fish and sea-food, as well as of sushi, a dinner at Benihana becomes an unforgettable experience.
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Hotel, Calea Dorobantilor 5 – 7, Phone: 021 201 5030, Open: 12:00 – 15:00, 19:00 – 22:30 last order.
THE GANG Restaurant & Lounge: Cosmopolitan set with a modern architecture by Nicole White. Fine Asian cuisine based mainly on fresh fish & seafood. Take away, CC accepted, parking lot available
• 4, Alecu Russo St. 6E • 7-9, Nordului Ave (Herastrau Park) – Summer location 2C Ph: 021 210 5707; 0721 512 291 Open: 12:00 – 03:00
Mandarin: Explore the exotic flavor of the Asian with Mandarin cuisine. Come join us and taste! C.C. Accepted. Guarded parking.
JOLIE VILLE GALERIA, 103 bis Erou Iancu Nicolae St., first floor. Ph.: 021-206-8066. Open: 12:00 – 22:30 (22:00 – last order)
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their Korean chef awaits you not just to try the exotic and unmistakable taste of Korean food but to meet with traditional Korean meal ritual. Special offer: order the main dish and get 4 side dish for free; Excellent service; Ideal place for special events;
89, Lt. Av. Mircea Zorileanu St. Ph: 021 667 2119; 0725 498 366 Open: Mon-Sat: 12:00 – 22:30; Sun: 14:00 – 22:30
American Cuisine Hard Rock Cafe Bucharest: 6d If you enjoy rock ’n roll music and exquisite atmosphere this is the place for you. A great selection of classic American recipes and signature cocktails waits to tempt and satisfy your wildest cravings. You’ll find some of Bucharest’s best live acts, valuable pieces of memorabilia as Bruce Springsteen’s guitar and John Lennon’s outfit and the ultimate fashion trends in the souvenir shop. 32, Kiseleff Avenue,
Herastrau Park. Ph.: 021-206-6261. Open: 12:00 - 24:00
Belgian Cuisine La Belle Epoque 4d : The largest selection of Belgian beers in town. Belgian and international cuisine. Air conditioning. C.C. accepted. 6, Aviator Radu Beller St. Ph.: 021-230-0770; Open: 11:30 - 24:00.
Waterloo 7f : Original Belgian recipes with Belgian Beer. C.C. accepted. Guarded parking.
188, Traian St. Ph.: 021-320-3588; 0740-171-090 Open daily from 12:00 - until the last guest leaves (24:00 last order)
Fusion/Contemporary the Artist 7D : A unique concept that highlights the vision of Dutch Chef Paul Oppenkamp, the place where the dishes are carefully prepared to emphasize the beauty in its details. CC accepted.
13, Tonitza St. (Historical Center). Ph.: 0728-318-871; 031-106-1722. Open: Tue. – Sun. 11:30 – 23:00.
Loft 5C : is equal parts restaurant & lounge. It’s fusion in a surprising way that can be seen in almost every aspect present: from the kitchen, to its bar, through the architecture, the music, the events and above all, the exquisite food. Every Tue – raw vegan, every Thu – soir de gourmet.
56-60, Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd. Metropolis Center, west wing, groundfloor Ph: 0756 38 5638 Open: Tue-Thu – 19:00 – 02:00; Fri-Sat – 19:00 – 04:00
German Cuisine Die Deutsche Kneipe 5d : Traditional German cuisine, drinks and atmosphere. C. C. accepted.
9, Stockholm St. Ph.: 021-233-9462, 021-230-1120 0722-284560. Open: Mon-Fri 15:00 – 23:30 Sat: 14:00 – 23:30; Sun – closed Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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French cuisine La Bonne Bouche 7d : Bistro & Wine Bar. Warm atmosphere, friendly staff. Check the extensive wine list. Chef’s weekly menu. Not cheap, but good value for money!
30, Franceza St. (Old Town); Ph.: 0731-247-876; Open: 12:30 – 24:00, Mon. 18:30 – 24:00 La Cantine de Nicolai 5c :
Semi-gastronomique French restaurant. Sami Babou, the “Special Delegate” of Chef Alain Ducasse, brings great joy to your sense of taste with his elaborate recipes. Popart sculptures and paintings complete the sophisticated atmosphere. The terrace - away from the public eye - is perfect for discreet business lunches or romantic dinners. Their credo is: Delight - Privacy - Art.
15-17, Povernei St. Ph.: 0725-210-608, 037-274-6213. Open daily: 11:00 till late (23:00 last order).
Chocolat – Createur De Gout: Worldwide new and unique concept featuring a harmonious blend between the Restaurant, the Tea Room, the Coffee Shop and the Boutique that offers French inspired delicacies - cakes, pastry and bread specialties. Find them all in an exquisite ambience where you can savor a joyful moment at any time of your day.
• 42D, Bucuresti-Ploiesti Road (Baneasa Shopping City) Ph.: 0730-608-888. Open: 10:00 – 22:00. • 4C 13, Radu Beller St. Ph.: 021-230-2383. Open: 10:00 – until the last guest leaves. • 7D 12A, Calea Victoriei (Historical Center) Ph.: 021-314-9245. Open: 10:00 – until the last guest leaves.
Ici et La: Philippe Dupré, French chef, welcomes you in a warm ambience ideal for business lunches or family dinners. The restaurant has an open kitchen and a view to Piata Romana, where you will taste their specialties: home made smoked salmon, beef tartar or even a French cheese and charcuterie plate. Special evenings every Thursday.
43, Mendeleev St. Ph: 0731-453 608 Open: Mon.-Sat.10:00 to 23:00
Iconic Food Wine and Design by Camelia Sucu: Iconic Food Wine and Design is a restaurant and wine bar placed in the middle of a design showroom. A rather unique and inspirational venue, ideal for special events and creative afterhours, that bears the esthetic lifestyle signature of Camelia Sucu. Expect superb, beautifully presented and supremely healthy food. There’s a wine bar on the premises too, whose stock is one of the city’s best.
7, Aleea Alexandru Ph.: 0720-333-541; 021-230-0877 Open: Tue.– Sat. 12:00 – 22:30 (after 18:00 with reservation only)
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Indian Cuisine KUMAR’S AGRA PALACE : From the City of Agra, once capital of the famous Mogul Empire, where the white marble of Taj Mahal guards the banks of river Yamuna, among the Hibiscus flowers and majestic archways, chef Arun Kumar has brought the essential: the mysterious taste of India. C.C. accepted; Free Wi fi internet access; Guarded parking lot.
6, Mantuleasa St. Ph: 021-350-3114; 0769-060-160 Open: 12:00 .- 24:00
Fazz’s 5D : Authentic Indian Bengali cuisine. Set menus & house specials; vegetarian & children’s menu; International wine list; Parties & Functions catered for; take away service. Free wifi internet.
38, M. Eminescu St Ph: 031 101 3707 Open daily: lunch 13:00 – 16:00; evening 18:00 – till midnight
Taj 8b : Genuine Northern Indian menu creared by Indian chef. Special brunch offer. Indian live show, Fri & Sat. Indian decoration, soft music, pleasant atmosphere, separate smoking area. Air conditioned; terrace. C.C. accepted. Parking lot.
127-131, Calea 13 Septembrie. Ph.: 021-410-1820. Open: 12:00 - 02:00.
GOURMET Cuisine
International Cuisine
Joseph by Joseph Hadad: Joseph is that
Avalon 6d : Avalon welcomes guests in a cozy, intimate
special place long awaited in Bucharest. The restaurant combines the gourmet gastronomy trend with your need to eat in a comfortable, welcoming and refined space. Chef Joseph Hadad, one of the most famous chefs in Romania, recognized for his talent and innovations in culinary arts, is proposing you daily unique dishes created from personal recipes. At Joseph each meal is a special experience, a gastronomic ceremony personalized for each client. Air conditioned; summer terrace; C.C. accepted; Guarded parking lot.
atmosphere, with a large variety of international cuisine dishes. Italian, French, Asian and North-American influences are mixed and twisted by our Executive Chef into unique combinations. A feast for all senses.
8, Prof. Dr. Ion Cantacuzino St. Ph.: 0753-999-333; Open: 12:00 - 24:00
Prime Steaks & Seafood 6d : An outstanding culinary experience, either for a business lunch or simply for a relaxing escape. The menu showcases an elegant selection of gourmet food such as the world’s best steak, Irish Hereford Prime Rib-eye, or King Crab from Alaska, everything prepared in the inviting open kitchen. Complementing the gourmet menu, the extensive list of beverages includes worldwide famous wines, as well as a unique selection of awarded Romanian wines. 44 places. Red glass for show kitchen, walk in wine cellar. CC accepted. Non-smoking. 63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson BLU Hotel groundfloor. Ph.: 021-311-9000; Open daily 18:30 - 23:30.
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Bucharest Hotel, 5 – 7, Calea Dorobantilor, Ph.: 021-201-5030. Open: Breakfast 6:30 – 10:30, Lunch 12:00 – 15:00 Dinner 19:00 – 22:30 last order. Barbizon Steak House 3a : Pullman
Bucharest World Trade Center introduces its restaurant with a capacity of 70 seats. Taste premium quality meats and choose from over 50 International wines (Red, White and Rose). Live cooking in the show kitchen. 45 seat designated smoking area. Air Conditioning. CC accepted. Free WiFi access. Free parking.
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center, 10, Montreal Square. Ph.: 021-202-1635. Open: Mon. – Fri. 12:00 - 15:30 (lunch), 18:00 - 23:30 (dinner); Sat. & Sun. 18:00 - 23:00 (dinner). La Brasserie 2a : Less about fine dining but more about good quality, simply food for the whole family. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte and gives a great choice for groups. The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is cozier than ever. Sunday Brunch is back, with playground and a professional nanny to supervise the kids, smoking area and free parking. Air Conditioning, CC accepted, Parking, Live Music, Non-Smoking, Take Away. 1, Poligrafiei Blvd. (Crowne Plaza Hotel); Ph.: 021-224-0034; Open daily: 06.00 – 23.00
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10-12, Ion Mihalache Blvd., Ph: 0758.10.10.40, Restaurant & Lounge: open daily: 08:00 until the last guest leaves. Dacia Felix Restaurant 6d is the perfect location for breakfast, conference and group meals. The menu theme of the restaurant is world cuisine and its particular concept signature is represented by buffet islands with live cooking, our wonderful Super Breakfast Buffet, live entertainment Sunday Brunches, occasionally thematic, soft smell of freshly brewed coffee and light sound of pink sparkling wine. 63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson BLU Hotel groundfloor. Ph.: 021-311-9000; Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30.
Doncafe Brasserie 4c : Located just off Dorobanti Square, Doncafe has a particularly airy space flooded with natural light. The varied menu lets you choose between classic savory salads, a delicious Wiener schnitzel, numerous grills and homemade pastas, and a whole range of fresh snacks (including bruschetta, ciabatta or sandwiches). You can start your day with Continental or English breakfast. For lunch or dinner you can also pick the menu of the day. The location is adapted perfectly to private parties or events. Air conditioning. CC accepted. Guarded Parking. Free WiFi access. 7, Ankara St. Ph.: 0746-222-444. Open: 08:30 – 24:00.
The Harbour 6d : You’ve come a long way... you need to relax... dock to The Harbour where you will find a buffer zone, the taste of the finest international cuisine and maybe an acquaintance just to make you feel you belong... Terrace and parking. C.C. accepted.
10-22, Piata Amzei; Ph.: 0724-388-686; Open: 11:30 - until the last guest leaves.
The Harp - IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT 7d : Great place to party with your friends and enjoy delicious
Café Athénée 6d : Steep yourself in Romanian culture in Cafe Athénée, set in Bucharest’s historic Revolution Square. The restaurant’s elegant location and contemporary interior are reflected throughout the menu with a choice of classic European dishes served with a modern twist. As the sun sets, this Bucharest café transforms into a relaxed and cozy lounge with soft music and candles setting the scene. Indulge your senses in a range of tempting specials from the special menu or spoil yourself with gourmet cuisine and a glass of sparkling wine. CC accepted.
Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest, 1-3, Episcopiei St. Ph.: 021-303-3777. Open: 08:00 - 00:00. Casa Doina la sosea 7a : Large villa dating from the 19th century transformed into a very nice restaurant. Wine cellar. Terrace. C.C. accepted.
4, Soseaua Kiseleff. Ph.: 021-222-6717. Open: 12:00 - 01:00.
Casa Doina La Parc 2a : The perfect mix of Romanian and International cuisine; a traditional ambiance with modern elements. Its garden is the perfect place for our guests to spend the midday or evening.
3-5 Poligrafiei Ave, (Ramada Parc Hotel), Ph.: 021-315200 ; 021-549-2541. Open: 12:00 - 23:30.
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Casa Vernescu 6C : a place full of history, prestige and nobility, one of Romanian’s architectural masterpieces, is presented to you in a new concept: Restaurant, Lounge & Club. Valet parking. CC accepted; Home delivery, Catering services 133, Calea Victoriei Ph: 0733 242 067 Open: 12:00 – until the last guest leaves
Chez Marie 6d : Try the wide selection of international cuisine and special wines in this recently opened restaurant located in the heart of the city.
48, Dionisie Lupu St. Ph.: 037-107-2033; 0730-344-810. Open: 12:00 - until the last guest leaves.
Collage 5B : Restaurant, Lounge, Winery, Brandy Room - all under one roof. Life is a collage. Live it with an open mind. Awesome place to experience in style the very best of food, drinks, music and art. Enjoy the Restaurant for an exquisite gourmet menu of Italian, Mediterranean and International cuisine with the best fresh ingredients & daily homemade bread, pasta and desserts, followed by a smooth spirit and cigar in their Brandy Room. Or join them in the Lounge for a short coffee break, a tasty business lunch, or an all-night party with great music, delicious cocktails, a beautiful crowd and amazing atmosphere. CC accepted. Free WiFi. Private Events. Excellent service. Friendly English & Italian speaking staff.
Irish and International cuisine specialties accompanied by dark beer, good wine or signature cocktails. Enjoy live music in a cheerful atmosphere. Very popular among football fans and Guiness lovers. Special offer: Mo-Fr, 12:00-17:00; Free wi-fi, air conditioning, CC accepted.
1, Bibescu St. (Unirii Sq.); Ph: 0735-554-455 Open: 08:00 - 02:00
Jadoo 7e : Mediterranean & International cuisine restaurant. Special lunch offer - 20% discount (food only). Wood oven baked pizzas. Catering services available in neighborhood (12:00 - 15:00) Smoking and non-smoking areas. Parking lot available. C.C accepted.
3, Nicolae Racota St. - entrance from Clucerului St.; Ph.: 021-222-0502; 0724-365-583. Open: 12:00-until the last guest leaves (23:30 - last order)
Odeon Restaurant & Events 9E :is the ideal place to enjoy the fresh taste of carefully selected ingredients prepared and brought to you from all over the world. Prepared with style and attitude, our unique recipes are served with a variety of side dishes and other specialties in order to meet the most refined and demanding preferences. Here at Odeon, our Chef is devoted to one purpose only: to offer a truly distinguished and unique culinary experience. C.C. accepted, free wireless Internet, air conditioned, free parking lot. 162, Splaiul Unirii, Ph.: 031-437-9799; 0734-663-366, Open: 12:00-23:00 (last order).
Paris Bucarest Brasserie 2b : Indulge yourself with a tempting buffet for breakfast and lunch. Free WiFi access. Air conditioning. Non smoking area.
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center, 10 Montreal Sq., Ph.: 021-318-3000 Breakfast Buffet: Mon. - Fri.: 06:00 - 10:00, Sat. & Sun. 06:00 - 11:00; Lunch Buffet as per business 12:00 - 14:30.
Pool Side Grill 6d offers the guests a relaxed, cozy party atmosphere, right in the heart of the city, away from the exciting rhythm of the urban life. The Radisson’s hidden terrace is situated at the side of the hotel’s big outdoor swimming pool, in the courtyard. Come for barbecued meats, terrific bar food - including a genuinely great burger.
63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson BLU Hotel ground floor garden. Ph.: 021-601-3436. Open in summer time between 12:00 - 23:00.
Premier Palace Restaurant: Part of the newest five star hotel in Bucharest, just 10 minutes away from the Old Center, in the west side of the city, it is an ideal location for both business and leisure. The Premier Palace Restaurant, located on the ground floor of the hotel guides you along a journey within the international cuisine. The style of the restaurant is inspired by the life and creation of the great Italian composer Antonio Vivaldi. The restaurant offers the perfect conditions for private and corporate parties, business lunches /dinners, meetings and other events, all in
a selected and refined ambiance. C.C. accepted, free wireless Internet, air conditioned, free parking lot.
134, Ghencea Blvd., Reservations: 031-407-6000; 0722-111-155, Open daily: 12:00-23:00 (last order). Red Angus Steakhouse 7d : Located in the
Old Downtown of Bucharest, in front of the Old Court, this restaurant wants to be your first option for a steak. They are committed to provide you with outstanding hospitality and serving you the best steaks. Their USDA Choice steaks are highly marbled with enriching flavor, tenderness and juiciness of the meat. Whether you are planning a business dinner, an anniversary or a large corporate meeting, they will satisfy your preference in a friendly and professional manner. CC accepted, air conditioning, smoking and no smoking area, Wi-Fi, TV;
56, Franceza St, Old Town Ph: 021-312-0383 Open daily: 12:00-24:00
Sangria 5d : International menu, few Spanish dishes, nice atmosphere. Open/covered terrace! C.C. accepted.
days (check availability!). Summer terrace and underground parking available. CC accepted.
Novotel Bucarest City Centre – 37B, Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 021-308-8530. Open: 06:00 - 23:00. Veranda 5C : Casa Frumoasa is pleased to welcome you to its new restaurant: Veranda Casa Frumoasa. A remarkable concept signed by the Italian architect, Elena Busato, the restaurant comes as a modern interpretation of a greenhouse at the end of the 18th century, with Art Deco influences and exotic touches. They will be glad to receive you in a unique intimate setting, with a sophisticated menu, created by Chef Avi Steinitz, in which French cuisine meets Mediterranean elements and a most prestigious wine and champagne selection. Air conditioned, free wifi internet, guarded free parking lot.
5, Clopotarii Vechi St. Reservation highly recommended Ph.: 021 - 317.60.07 ; 0733.735.932; Open: 11:00 until the last guest leaves
78, Caderea Bastiliei St. Ph.: 021-211-2276; Open: 12:00 - 24:00.
Teatro Restaurant 7d : The convivial restaurant is the heart of the hotel. Amazing a la carte offering a large panel of different cuisine for a fine dining experience, Romanian dishes, but also international casual food. Teatro is also a full buffet offer for lunch time during the week Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Italian Cuisine Bel’Mondo 7d : is much more than a restaurant, it is a piece of Italy in the heart of Bucharest’s Old Town, a place where Italian cuisine, fine winery and live music come together, in the spirit of eternal youth. Summer terrace, hostess service, wifi internet, air conditionong, CC accepted.
6, Covaci St. Ph: 0725 966 636 Open: 12:00 until the last guest leaves (24:00 – last kitchen order)
Caffé Città 6d : Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the Apple Mojito or try any number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream.
63-81, Calea Victoriei, Radisson BLU Hotel groundfloor. Ph.: 021-601-3436. Open daily 09:30 - midnight.
Osteria Gioia 5c : Delicious Italian food. Excellent wine selection. Modern, elegant interiors, well trained and friendly staff.
16, Ion Mihalache Blvd; Ph.: 021-311-3750; Open 12:00 till late (23:00 last order).
Roberto’s Restaurant 6d : Roberto’s offers its clientele Italian cuisine at its best, thanks to the use of the freshest seasonal ingredients, cooked to perfection by the chef. The menu will seduce you and take you on a culinary journey with courses from all around Italy, reflecting the country’s reputation as the land of robust flavors, simply prepared food highlighting the quality of the ingredients and magnificent wines.
Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest, 1-3, Episcopiei St. Ph.: 021-303-3777. Open: 12:00 – 23:00.. Roberto’s on la Strada 6D Celebrate the taste of Italy at Roberto’s on La Strada Restaurant. Choose between tasty Italian dishes, fresh summer cocktails or the most exquisite selection of wines at this Bucharest restaurant. This summer, enjoy special lunch offers, laidback Sundays or glamorous prosecco nights on the restaurants charming terrace, the place to see and be seen in downtown Bucharest.
Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest. 1-3, Episcopiei St. Ph.: 021-303-3777. Open: 11:00-02:00 Trattoria “Il Calcio” 6d : Extensive menu of Italian dishes. Large selection of wines, beers and spirits. Nice interiors, relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff. 14,
Mendeleev St. Ph.: 0722-134-299. Open: Sun - Thu: 12:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat: 12:00 - 01:00.
Zigolini: A taste of Italy in Zigolini Ristorante! A deliciously intimate dining experience nestled in the most elegant Galleria of Bucharest! C.C. Accepted. Guarded parking. JOLIE VILLE GALLERIA 103 bis Erou Iancu Nicolae St., first floor. Ph.: 021-206-8069. Open: 12:00 – 22:30 (22:00 – last order).
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Mediterranean Cuisine
Middle Eastern Cuisine
Neptunus 2c : Named after the Roman God of the Sea, the Italian restaurant Neptunus brings a new dimension of deluxe gastronomy in a fascinating journey through Mediterranean cuisine. Cellar, breakfast room, summer terrace, hostess service, wifi internet, air conditioning, free parking lot. 6, Sfantul Stefan St. Ph.: 021 327 5656; 0722 465 742 Open: 12:00 – till late (22:00 – last order)
Golden Falcon 7e : Best Turkish restaurant
Sharkia 6D : Named after an eastern wind from the
Medina: The only Moroccan restaurant in the city. Medina
Levantine region, the restaurant brings you the whiff of the original East Mediterranean flavors. For the dishes are used the most wholesome ingredients therefore the quality, nutritional value and freshness of the food are a promise towards all Sharkia guests. The authenticity of the ingredients offers a unique culinary experience while the food that is fuel for your mind and body, as well as for your spirit. Enjoy the menu variety and let the East Mediterranean aromas and textures of the culinary delights spoil your senses.
63-81, Calea Victoriei (Radisson Blu Hotel). Ph.: 021-311-9000. Open: 12:00 - 23:00.
in town. Full range of kebab dishes, Turkish aperitifs and traditional sweets. Catering service available.
18-20, Hristo Botev St. (near C.A. Rossetti Square). Ph.: 021-314-2825; 313-2833. Open: 12:00 - 24:00. Moroccan Cuisine is proposing the most famous Moroccan and Tunisian specialties such as Couscous, Tajines and Pastillas, in a refined and sophisticated oriental atmosphere. For small hungers, you can also try our special Kemias (Tunisian tapas) with a fresh drink or a home made mint tea on our terrace. The restaurant can host private or corporate parties, business lunches/dinners. Special opening offer during summer! CC accepted, wireless internet, air-conditioning.
7, Decebal Blvd., Ph.: 031-432-6664 Open: 11:00 - till late (last food order 23:00)
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DINING OUT Romanian Cuisine Caru’ cu Bere 7d : Historical restaurant (established 1879) in the old town district, behind the National History Museum. Original German style interior. Live music and dancing on weekends. CC accepted. 3-5,
Stavropoleos St. Ph.: 021-313-7560; Open: 10:00 - 24:00.
Casa Romaneasca: Authentic Romanian culinary delight in the traditional setting of a Romanian mansion with a splendidly decorated terrace, rich wine-cellar, large selection of Romanian wines, traditional Romanian customs and hospitality. CC accepted. 285, Calea Bucurestilor, Ph: 021 350 1510, 0744 689 920.
Count Dracula Club 7d : Unique theme restaurant, with a cozy atmosphere. Transylvanian and venison dishes. C.C. accepted. 8A, Splaiul Independentei. Ph.: 021-312-1353; 0770-223-235 Open: Tue-Sun – 16:00 – 24:00; Mon – closed.
Crama Templierilor 7c : Medieval cuisine and atmosphere, including decorations and music. Special room for children. Free transportation from and to hotel for groups of minimum four. They host weddings, private parties and special events for up to 120 guests.
3, Mihail Kogalniceanu Blvd., Ph.: +4021-311-6360, +40725-739-398 Open: 12:00 until the last guest leaves.
Decebal Rustic 7g : Exquisite Romanian dishes. C.C. accepted.
17, Decebal Blvd. Ph.: 021-321-67-00; 0723-515-009; Open:. 10:00 until the last guest leaves Hanul Hangitei 7d : Traditional Romanian cuisine. Daily special lunch offer.
16, Gabroveni St. Ph.: 021-314-7046. Open: 11:00 - until the last guest leaves.
La Sipote 2B : Traditional Restaurant located at the groundfloor of the Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center, offers a complete culinary experience in a unique atmosphere. With a capacity of 65 seats, the restaurant is the perfect location for weddings, christenings and private receptions. Designated smoking area. Air Conditioning. CC accepted. Free WiFi access. Free parking.
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center, 10, Montreal Square. Ph.: 021-202-1630. Open: Mon. – Fri. 12:00 - 15:30 (lunch), 18:00 - 23:30 (dinner); Sat. & Sun. 18:00 - 23:00 (dinner). Vatra 7d : Romanian cuisine. Air conditioning. 23-25, Brezoianu St. Ph.: 021-315-8375; 0721-200-800; Open: 12:00 - 24:00.
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SEA FOOD La Veranda 2a : The restaurant is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside. It serves exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught. Air Conditioning, CC accepted, Parking, Smoking free, Outside Seating.
1, Poligrafiei Blvd. (Crowne Plaza Hotel); Ph.: 021-224-0034; Open daily: 12.00 – 23.00.
VEGETARIAN CUISINE Casa Satya 5b : Vegetarian and Fish Cuisine. Organic Ingredients and Wines.
25, Banu Manta Blvd. Piata Victoriei area, near sector 1 Town-Hall; Ph.: 0736 392 587, Delivery: 0736-392-583, Open: 12:00 till midnight
SPANISH Cuisine Don Jamon 9D : Authentic Spanish cuisine restaurant using only the best fresh ingredients; Highly recommended: Tapas – Plato Jamon Iberico or Sepia con salsa verde and as a main course – Paella de marisco or Paella Valenciana. Excellent service, modern-style decorations. 2B, Marasesti Blvd., Ph.: 021-794-7188 / 89, Open 09:00 – till midnight.
Nada Mas 6d : Spanish specialties and quality fish from the Black Sea; Tapas Bar. 16, Nicolae Golescu St. Ph.: 021-313-2091 Open: Mon – Sat: 12:00 – 24:00; Sun - closed
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enjoying arts
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Bucharest has much to offer to classical music, opera, theater and cinema lovers. The performing arts is one area which was allowed to blossom during the communist era, and a reflection of this is seen in the grandeur of the theaters in Bucharest.
W
hile Romania has a rich and vast history of theater, most productions are performed in the native language, so experiencing it can be something of a challenge to nonRomanian speakers. From time to time some productions in German or English offer performances at various small theaters or during special holidays. There is a special Jewish theater that puts on plays in Yiddish, Hebrew and Romanian. The theater season closes during the summer from July to September, although some small student and underground theaters and open-air theaters do remain open. For those not fluent in Romanian, operas or orchestral concerts may be the best choice. Performances usually start in the early evening, around 18:30 or 19:00. The world-renowned Romanian Opera performs in Romanian as well as original Italian and German. Watch for the Music University of Bucharest’s free classical-music recitals, and if you have a chance to attend a performance at the Athenaeum, do it! With its elegant domed interior, the Athenaeum is one of the architectural gems of Bucharest. Concert halls also close in July and August.
Photo: • The Romanian Athenaeum Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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cultural expressions ANA-MARIA POPESCU
The manifestations of a culture, regardless of how refined, profound or dedicated to tradition a nation is, express themselves diachronically. Romania is also part of modern times, and consequently, all it spiritual and creative productions and manifestations, and all its cultural acts follow the same rules that apply to the modern world. No matter what, culture will never disappear, since man is by definition a cultural being. And the statement that modernism is the main reason for the disappearance of culture because of the individualism it purports has not been verified in time. 132 | Welcome to Bucharest & Romania
C
ulture has a direction, a meaning enclosed within its own destiny, which unfolds dynamically, which does not stop when the values it gathers in a certain fund seem to be depleted at a given moment. That is precisely the time when increasingly new forms and expressions emerge, determined by the social and historical context. People still have a cultural existence, with everything that it entails, lived at high intensity and with the same pleasure. And Bucharest has always been the cultural capital of Romania. With reference to the modern world, much has been said of the so-called “moral crisis”, the lack of ideals and high values. In the meanwhile, waters have cleared, and those moments wanting creativity and original drive proved to be nothing but transient periods of change, when other forms of culture give rise to other values and cultural manifestations. Nowadays, individualism has very strong supporters, and therefore it is only natural that people are increasingly less dedicated to impersonal values. Life is much more colorful if seen subjectively, and what can now be called a cultural act is more of an attitude to life, a certain lifestyle, as the atmosphere of the present is most often called in a consumerist society, if we were to dot the i. Cultural life continues to be highly intense, even flourishing. This is proven by the numerous widely covered and important manifestations which are constantly filling up people’s time and preoccupations: from exhibitions, festivals, Fairs to Concerts and all sorts of targeted and punctual events. Furthermore, the new urban culture displays its own forms of manifestation, and its latest expressions such as street art have their loyal public.
“George Enescu” Festival in 2013 This year, Google placed George Enescu festival on the first place in the top searches from the category “Concerts”! The ranking performed by Zeitgeist and posted by Hotnews provides an overview of the major events of the year and the new trends on which Romanians searched for information. The 2013 edition of the Festival (which took place at the end of autumn – September 1-28th) brought to Bucharest and in Romania over 3,000 invited foreign artists and comprised 150 events in Bucharest and in other 9 cities of Romania. Over 120,000 spectators
enjoyed the live concerts, among whom 20,000 foreign tourists who came here especially for the festival. The Festival also registered a selling record in terms of individual tickets: 22,000 tickets were purchased in only two hours after they were out for sale, on April 15th, 2013. The part which was most appreciated by the people of our times, for the first time in the history of the festival, was the launching of a Smartphone application. Thus concerts could be followed in live transmission in cinema halls as well due to a partnership with Grand Cinema Digiplex. The famous American actor John Malkovich closed his international tour with the play “Confessions of a serial murder” together with the Wiener Akademie orchestra on the stage of Romanian Athenaeum, within the Festival. The show took place on September 9th, and was followed by an extraordinary press conference attended by the actor himself. One of the photos taken at the conference was included among the top 10 images of the day on the BBC web page. The 2013 edition of the Festival was opened with the extraordinary presence of pianist and conductor Daniel Barenboim. He went on stage together with pianist Radu Lupu, one of the most renowned pianists of Romanian origin. A much expected presence was also the Concertgebouw orchestra of Amsterdam. The festival “is an international brand of overwhelming significance not only for our country, since there are over 20,000 incoming tourists”, was the statement of Ioan Holender, artistic manger of “George Enescu” International Festival. The event always enjoys international media coverage. Other great names have been for years on the guests’ list. The 2013 edition enjoyed the presence of Jordi Savall, master of old music, conductor Marek Janowski and one of the most highly appreciated violin players of the moment: Maxim Vengherov and Vadim Repin. “A very warm and enthusiastic welcome from the public. We’ve kept a nice memory of the atmosphere and the audience”, Marek Janowski, conductor, said. “When I was five, my father gave me a present: a record of George Enescu playing Ernest Chausson’s Poem on the violin. I remember listening to it constantly for the next 20 years, because I simply loved it. Enescu became the idol of my childhood” Maxim Vengerov, violonist, said. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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The year of event concerts in Bucharest The year 2013 was declared the year of event concerts: Roger Waters, Depeche Mode, Iron Maiden etc. Roger Waters “broke down the wall” in Bucharest in August, and in May Depeche Mode filled up the biggest stadium in Romania. Their concert remains for their Romanian fans an unforgettable event. The British artists electrified the crowd gathered on National Arena from the first notes. The fans sang with their idols for minutes on end. And Roger Waters’ concert of August was among the most highly expected events of the year. The show had an impressive opening: with fireworks and a plane that crashed on stage. Roger Waters was received with applause by over 50,000 fans. As a sign of appreciation, the artist addressed them in Romanian. Deep Purple comes to Bucharest in 2014. It will be one of the major concerts of the year. A glance at event web pages reveals an impressive offer: films, theatre, shows, parties, karaoke, concerts, classical music, exhibitions, fairs, book fairs, cinemas, theater halls, museums/art galleries, restaurants, clubs. There are many web pages where
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information can be accessed as to when?/ where?/how?, reservations can be made and tickets can be bought. Bucharest is both Romania’s capital and the biggest event centre of Romania. Every year, Bucharest hosts numerous fairs and exhibitions, music and film festivals, concerts and shows in the most varied fields. Important artists and bands come to Bucharest, placing the city on the map of international tours. The guide to cultural and showbiz events in Bucharest includes open air concerts and festivals, concerts and parties in pubs, details on the Bucharest Days, fairs and exhibitions, as well as conferences and seminars on the most diverse topics.
Book fairs The International GAUDEAMUS – Education Book Fair reached its 20th edition on 2-13. The final agenda of the event numbered over 115,000 visitors, 400 exhibition participants, 60 editorial and professional events and over 5,000 volumes donated within the project Books go back home. The guest of honour of the 2013 edition was the Group of Nordic countries: Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. The Nordic presence at Gaudeamus took the form of a highly dense event schedule, which
included over 30 book releases, conferences, film projections, creative workshops, addressed to a mixed public in terms of age and preoccupations. Carefully prepared and impatiently expected, the most important and the longest exhibition dedicated to books from Romania, it has a well-defined place in the cultural calendar and the consciousness of the public. This is proven by the over 100,000 persons who visit it every year. The International GAUDEAMUS – Education Book Fair has been for years a landmark, both for specialists in the field and for the wide public. The fair is organized every year in the Central Pavilion of Romexpo, gathering, in a space of 14,000 sqm, the offer of over 400 Romanian and foreign publishing houses, mass media institutions, book distribution agencies, printing houses, education institutions, cultural centres and institutes, multimedia companies, literary agencies, non-governmental cultural and educational organisations, professional associations, bookshops, libraries, etc. Practically, in the fall of every year, the International GAUDEAMUS Fair becomes the focus of the editorial market and cultural life in Romania. Equally a book exhibition and a literary coffee shop, the Fair proposes a marathon of over 600 cultural events on
every edition, in a friendly atmosphere for a meeting with the living world of printed culture. A genuine incubator of cultural ideas and projects, the Fair opens its door to foreign exhibition participants and visitors, providing the ideal meeting place of foreign personalities invited at the fair with the public, but also with specialists in the book industry, authors, translators, book illustrators, literary agents and critics. BOOKFEST is organized by the Association of Romanian Editors (AER), under the umbrella of the Federation of Romanian Editors. The Association of Romanian Editors was set up in 1991 and is the main professional association of book editors from Romania. It gathers editors from all fields of cultural interest. The Association mainly aims to promote the reading and writing of high quality books, to ease readers’ material and informational access books, thus contributing to the free circulation of ideas, as well as to the integration of Romanian culture and language in the international circuit of values. In 2013, the guest of honour was German literature, through the participation of Austria, Switzerland and Germany within the international project Three countries, one language. The joint stand of Germany, Austria and Switzerland was in Pavilions C4 – C5. In the middle there was an important book exhibition, containing the editorial news in all fields. The same stand contained a space for manifestations, as well as a bookshop with books in German. It displayed a rich offer of titles in German, from contemporary literature, reference books, dictionaries, textbooks, to children’s literature and, last but not least, games, music and films. There were also the original titles of German, Austrian and Swiss authors, present at the meetings with the Romanian public. Authors, editors, illustrators, translators and journalists from the three countries of German language came into contact with the public and specialists during the five days of the fair. The 2014 edition will come with many more surprises and more diversity and events.
Urban culture Urban culture is defined as some sort of a mixture of music (hip-hop, rap, slam) or visual art (graffiti), dancing (brake, electro, street) and unconventional or extreme sports (skateboard, roller skating, BMX, parkour). All these fill up and add new dimensions to the image and life of Bucharest, just like in all other big cities of the world. Post-communist Romania has been an excellent incubator for urban culture. The new generation could finally enjoy the Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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freedom of expression and opening towards the West. To a post-communist Romania this phenomenon meant a lot. The first manifestations appeared around the year 1990, in graffiti. The first writer crews were formed in Bucharest in 1999. It was also the year of the first graffiti competition. In the interval 2000-2001, the first graffs executed by foreign artists appeared in the Bucharest underground. The first whole car of Romania was executed in 2002, and in 2004 the first whole car of personal train was executed. In 1999 the first skatepark in Romania was opened, in Bucharest. In 2003, Mountain Dew organized in Skatepark Herăstrău, in Bucharest, he first extreme sport event attended by graffiti artists as well. Currently, Romania has 14 skateparks. Every year, around 200 children take on skateboarding/BMX/streetdance. There are approximately 300 active graffiti and street art artists, among whom some are internationally renowned. There are already over 20 stores of street wear, accessories and sports equipment. On a yearly basis, there are over 15 events dedicated to extreme sports, but organized on subcultures and disciplines. And at least one music event every weekend.
Underground It actually refers to niche culture. In the beginning, in Romania all the bands which were not present in the media were called underground, because they were against the system and practically criticized or satirized the regime. Nowadays, underground is synonymous with “unconventional, avantgarde”, with reference to experimental artistical acts or creations. Underground music continues to refer to a music style outside the circuit of commercial broadcasting (ppsychedelic, punk, grunge, hip-hop etc.), which emerged in the sixties and which focuses on honesty, freedom of expression and creativity at all costs.
Entertainment Entartainment means spending time in an enjoyable and relaxing manner. But now, when everything contracts to constantly smaller time units and things change as days go by, the idea of free time is also constinuously vague. No wonder that everything which involves filling up time otherwise than working can be considered entertainment. All the more so when you leave for one, two or only several days away from home. Merely leaving home, which involves changing places and spaces, reflects the need to become aware of and discover the new in all its forms. What is now called “business tourism” does not rule out the need of time spent in an enjoyable manner.
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And, once you’ve reached your destination, … exploration begins.
The living city The offers are as diverse as they are plentiful, at all levels and in all the peripherals of a city, especially when we talk of a capital. A living capital, in constant movement and change, such as Bucharest. A dynamic city which offers a lot, but also asks for much tenderness. Particularly since every travel to an unknown place forces you to shift from your stereotypical rush to a slow walk combined with window shopping and admiring new things. The first offer is what is called street art. The walls of buildings or gates welcome you with a new form of graffiti; it is actually special projects of already known artists. Ciubi’s square cats have managed to mesmerize viewers and have begun to travel from walls to all sorts of holders, and I’ve even seen them on brand packages. There is a reason why Bucharest is said to live through details. The key is to be mindful and constantly looking around. You can take a walk in Bucharest either through books or concretely, at slow pace. If you want to spend some time on the couch with a glass of juice or a relaxing spirit, the list of books and albums is endless: art albums, Bucharest guides, books with urban stories, rediscovered histories, writers in love with their city, foreigners who came, left and did not forget Bucharest. A cross-section of Bucharest. Bookshops, welcoming and full of offers, have gathered genuine gems which are waiting to be discovered. I once met someone who said about a Bucharest bookshop that it is the most beautiful he ever walked into and he is a person who traveled consistently. The parks render a certain air of old, classic Bucharest and still unspoilt by the consumerist trend. So there is no better place
if you want to take refuge from everyday life. For movies, theatre, opera and operetta, you can choose from a wide range of locations, but it requires more time, which is worth doing. The most appreciated are the festivals, because, besides the offer itself, they also provide a nice atmosphere and a good socializing opportunity. Private galleries, all of them very modern and welcoming, host works and exhibitions of young artists, and are not to be missed. They indicate new art trends and currents.
Music is everywhere Whether it is, as we have already mentioned, street music, pub music, the pocket of a backpack filled with CDs, or an mp3 hanging at the neck, music is everywhere. For concert fans, the offers cater to all tastes, and for refined addicts to culture, the pubs invite the most famous DJs of the time. To many, nightlife is in fact a lifestyle. And people say that the map of beautiful places in Bucharest begins with the Old City Centre, which is the biggest agglomeration of new and cosmopolite establishments, which suit all tastes and budgets. There is also the Green Hours formula, which is already a brand and which serves theatre, books and jazz together with refined cocktails and drinks.
Souvenirs There is a small chapter that is largely ignored, but which I have long desired to flag somehow. And I think there is no better category to include it into than the area dedicated to culture. On the one hand, because this culture of the souvenir, although undeniably closely connected to trade, reflects just as much everything that means the brand and identity of a place and nation. Nobody completes a journey or leaves a foreign city or country without buying something, a symbolic item which belongs to that space, that culture, which is, as they say, “specific�. Magnets, books, key holders and engraved items. By definition, a souvenir is an item which brings back memories. I think if people would make a souvenir inventory, it would be much easier to identify a country brand. And Romania is still very much tributary to folk traditions. Besides photo albums with pictures of cities and monuments, there are few souvenirs which present something other than traditional artifacts, icons and pottery from various regions of Romania. Lately, there is Dracula, known to foreign tourists particularly due to the legend of the Carpathians, which turned the prince into a horror figure. It is nothing but a legend, but man is a narrative being, so nothing excites him more than heresies and what they give birth to. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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arts & artists See yourselves why so many people consider Bucharest’s theaters and rich artistic traditions to be among the city’s best features!
Theatres Act Theater: 126, Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 021-310-3103 Casandra Studio: 9, Franceza St., Ph.: 021-315-6975, 021-310-3574 Centrul Cultural European – Sala Rapsodia: 53, Lipscani St., Ph.: 021-315-8980 Centrul Multi Art Dans: 41, 11 Iunie St., Ph./fax: 021-336-6668 Constantin Tanase Satiric Theater: 33-35, Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 021-315-5678 Comedy Theater: 2, Sf. Dumitru St., Ph.: 021-314-9137 Excelsior Theater: 28, Academiei St., Ph.: 021-315-9720 Globus Circus: 15, Circului Alley, Ph.: 021-210-4195, 021-210-2419 info, 021-2104295, 021-210-4998 reservations opera & concerts The Ion Dacian Operetta Theater: The shows usually start at 18.30. Tickets available at Operetta Theater, 2, N. Balcescu Blvd. For reservations: 021-313-6348, daily 11:00 – 18.30, Mon closed. The National Opera: The shows start at 18:30. You can buy tickets at National Opera, 70-72 Mihail Kogalniceanu Blvd. For reservations: 021-314-6980, 021-311-5254 (daily 10:00 - 13:00 and 17:00 – 19.30), Mon closed. The Romanian Athenaeum & Radio Concerts: The Romanian Philharmonic Orchestra holds its weekly concerts at the Romanian Athenaeum Hall, George Enescu Square, every Thu & Fri. The concerts start at 19:00. For reservations: 021-315-0024, 021-315-2567. Season passes available. Romanian Radio Society organizes concerts in two halls starting at 19:00. Tickets available at Radio Hall, 60-64, G-ral Berthelot St. For reservations: 021-303-1211, 021-303-1517. You can buy a three month ticket.
Ion Creanga Theater: 13, Amzei Square, Ph.: 021-317-8590 Jewish State Theater: 15, Iuliu Barasch St., Ph.: 021-323-3970 Lucia Sturdza Bulandra Theater: Toma Caragiu Hall: 76A, J. L. Calderon St., Ph.: 021-212-0527; Izvor Hall: 1, Schitu Magureanu St., Ph.: 021-314-7546 Luni Theater from Green Hours: 120 Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 0788-452-485, 0732-234356 Masca Theater: 70-72, Uverturii Blvd., Ph.: 021-430-5069 Metropolis Theater: 89, Mihai Eminescu St., Ph.: 021-210-4281 National Theater: 2, N. Balcescu Blvd., Ph.: 021-313-9175 Nottara Theater: 20, General Magheru Blvd., Ph.: 021-317-4101 Odeon Theater Majestic Hall:
The Music University: Usually classical recitals; entrance is normally free of charge. Concerts start at 18:00. Music University of Bucharest, George Enescu Hall & Chopin Hall: 33, Stirbei Voda St., Ph.: 021-314-2710
40-42, Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 021-314-7234
Sala Palatului: 1, Cretulescu St., Ph.: 021-310-1522; 037-275-6651
Teatrul Foarte Mic: 21, Carol I Blvd., Ph.: 021-314-0905
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Tandarica Theater: 24, Gral. Eremia Grigorescu St., Ph.: 021-315-2377 Teatrul Mic: 16, Constantin Mille St., Ph.: 021-314-7081, 021-314-7081
Cinemas Bucharest has a large number of cinemas. The quality of the theaters varies greatly but conditions and equipment are improving constantly. Cinemas change movies on Fridays and usually play recent releases. Movies are shown in the original language, with Romanian subtitles. The cinemas show mostly American movies. You can find European films at the French Institute Cinema or the Cinemateca. Bucharest’s multi-screen cinemas - Hollywood Multiplex, Movieplex Cinema, Cinema City, Cinema City Sun Plaza and Cityplex – are opened in the biggest malls from Bucharest. While newer cinemas have air conditioning, the majority of the older theaters do not, but temperatures in the summer stay comfortable inside the cinema. Tickets don’t usually need to be bought days in advance except for special movies, but it is recommended that you purchase them in advance rather than at the door. Note: Cinemas in Bucharest frequently sell assigned seat tickets, so make sure you are sitting in the right seat number when you go. In Bucharest, movie schedules change weekly, usually on Fridays. Movies are screened in their original languages, with Romanian sub-titles. The majority of cinemas show American movies, but you can find European productions at the French Institute Cinema or the Cinemateca. Ticket prices vary from 4 to 34 lei, and up to 68 lei for VIP tickets. Cinema City: 4, Vasile Milea Blvd., AFI Palace Cotroceni Ph.: 021-407-0000
Art Galleries
Cinema City Sun Plaza: 391, Calea Vacaresti, Sun Plaza Ph.: 021-386-0600
Apollo Gallery: 2, N. Balcescu Blvd. Open: Mon - Sat 10:00 - 18:00 painting, sculpture, decorative art
CinemaPro: 3, Ion Ghica St. Ph.: 031-824-1360
Artexpo Gallery - National Theater: 2, N. Balcescu Blvd., 3rd and 4th floors. Ph.: 021-313-9175. Open: Tue - Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Cinemateca: • Eforie Hall: 2, Eforie St. Ph.: 021-313-0483; • Union Hall: 21, Ion Campineanu St. Ph.: 021-313-9289 Corso: 27, Regina Elisabeta Blvd. Ph.: 021-315-1334 Europa: 127, Calea Mosilor Ph.: 021-314-2714 French Institute “Elvira Popescu”: 77, Dacia Blvd. Ph.: 021-316-0605 Glendale Studio: 9, Cotroceni Ave. Ph.: 021-316-3286 Gloria: 6, Bucovina St. Ph.: 021-324-4675 Grand Cinema Digiplex Baneasa: 42D, Bucuresti-Ploiesti Road, Baneasa Shopping City, 1st Floor. Ph.: 037-465-4321 Hollywood Multiplex: 55-59, Calea Vitan, Bucuresti Mall Ph.: 021-327-7020/22 The Light Cinema: 151-171, Progresului Ave., Liberty Center Ph.: 021-369-9740, 021-369-9797 Movieplex Cinema: 26, Timisoara Blvd., Plaza Romania; Ph.: 021-431-0000 NCRR: 3, Monetariei St., within the National Museum of Romanian Peasant Ph.: 021-317-9660 Patria: 12-14, Magheru Blvd. Ph.: 021-316-9266
Caminul Artei Gallery: 16-18, Biserica Enei St., Ph.: 021-312-6766. Open: Mon - Fri 10:00 - 18:00 Cercul Militar National Art Gallery: 1, Constantin Mille St., Ph.: 021-313-8680/Ext.123, Open: 10:00 - 18:00 Galateea Gallery: 132, Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 021-212-8210 Open: Mon 13:00 - 20:00, Tue - Fri 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00 Galeria Noua: 15, Academiei St., Ph.:/fax: 021-313-5111 GOLD ART GALLERY - Hilton: 1-3, Episcopiei St., Ph.: 021-310-1827 Graphis Gallery: 23A, N. Balcescu Blvd., Ph.: 021-315-8917. Hanul Cu Tei: 63-65, Lipscani St., 1st floor, Ph.: 021-313-0181; 021-315-5663 Open: Mon – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sat 10:00 – 14:00 , Antiques, art gallery. C.C. accepted. Melenia Art Gallery: 3, Constantin Daniel St., www.meleniagallery.com Open: Tue. – Fri. 13:00 - 19:00 & Sat. 12:00 - 17:00. National Museum Of Art Of Romania Galleries: 49-53, Calea Victoriei, Ph.: 021-313-3030. Open: 10:00 - 18:00 Occident Gallery: 11, Occidentului St., Ph.: 021-212-5923. Open: 10:00 - 18:00
Scala: 2-4, Magheru Blvd. Ph.: 021-316-6708
Orizont Gallery: 23A, N. Balcescu Blvd., Ph.: 021-315-8917 Open: Mon - Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00
Studio: 29, Magheru Blvd. Ph.: 021-316-5526
Simeza Gallery: 20, Magheru Blvd., Ph.: 021-315-8922 Open: Mon - Fri 10:00 - 18:00 Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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after dark
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The light breeze of Romania’s Latin influences can still be felt in Bucharest’s nightlife. It wafts above couples dancing to the thumping bass of club music, across animated conversations on restaurant terraces and through dimly lit bars, all of which keep time with the city’s festive pace. Bucharest’s nightlife is a colorful combination of clubs, bars and casinos that provide an array of choices for night time adventures.
Photo: • The Palace of Justice, on the right bank of Dambovita River, in the proximity of Unirii Square
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Coffee Shops Caffe & Latte 7c : Before or after a pleasant walk through Cismigiu Park, in-between business meetings or... whenever, pay them a visit and let them spoil you with their home made specialities. They’ve got new goodies, breakfast choices, soups, salads and... lots of surprises that will keep on coming. Yours truly, Caffe & Latte!
35, Schitu Magureanu St. Ph.: 031-415-8551 Open: 08.30 - 22.30 Crown Cafe 2a : The cafe welcomes you with fine
Electronic Casinos HAVANA PRINCESS CASINO: 13, Regina Elisabeta Blvd. Ph.: 021-313-98-23, 0742-129-991. Open: non-stop. INTERTOP • 13 Septembrie: 121, Calea 13 Septembrie • Baba Novac: 302-304, Soseaua Mihai Bravu • Brancoveanu: 10, Constantin Brancoveanu • Baneasa: 2-8, Aerogarii Blvd. • Calea Victoriei: 1, Grigore Alexandrescu St. • Cantemir: 22A, Dimitrie Cantemir Blvd. • Cosbuc: 51, Regina Maria Blvd. • Crangasi: 20, Soseaua Crangasi • Decebal: 20, Decebal Blvd. • Dinamo: 5, Soseaua Stefan cel Mare • Gara De Nord: 38, Dinicu Golescu St. • Giurgiului: 131, Soseaua Giurgiului • Grivita 2: 230,B Calea Grivitei • Ion Mihalache: 93, Ion Mihalache Blvd. • Iuliu Maniu: 67, Iuliu Maniu Blvd. • Kogalniceanu: 3, Piata Mihail Kogalniceanu • Loto: 69, Timisoara Blvd. • Marriott: 90, Calea 13 Septembrie • Mihai Bravu Iancului: 112, Soseaua Mihai Bravu • Mosilor: 278, Calea Mosilor • Octavian Goga: 24, Octavian Goga Blvd. • Oltenitei: 125B Soseaua Oltenitei • Panduri: 71, Soseaua Panduri • Ritmului: 39, Soseaua Pantelimon • Sala Palatului: 28, Ion Campineanu St. • Serban Voda: 270, Soseaua Serban Voda • Timisoarei: 17A, Timisoara Blvd. • Titan: 13A, Liviu Rebreanu St. • Tunel: 3-5, Alexandru Serbanescu St. spalatoria Tunel • Unirii: 2B, Dimitrie Cantemir Blvd. • DORALY: 31, Soseaua Bucuresti-Urziceni, pavilion extindere hala S, Afumati • DRAGONUL ROSU: 12, Dragonul Rosu St., Fundeni • OTOPENI: 88, Calea Bucurestilor, Otopeni • Pipera: 34 bis, Soseaua Pipera • Voluntari: Voluntari, 1, Constantin David St. Novo vltech Solutions • B & W: 78, Iuliu Maniu Blvd. • Plaza: 53, Nicolae Grigorescu Blvd. • Unirii: 2B, Dimitrie Cantemir Blvd.
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LIVE Casinos grand CASINO: 90, Calea 13 Septembrie ph.: 031-425-3501. Open: non-stop METROPOLIS CASINO: 37 B, Calea Victoriei (Novotel Hotel) Ph.: 021-367-3412, 0742-079-119; Open: non stop. PLATINUM Casino: 63-81, Calea Victoriei, (Radisson BLU Bucharest). ph.: 031-710-2234 - 7, Fax: 021-312-58-06 Open: non-stop. QUEEN CASINO: 5-7, Calea Dorobantilor (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza). ph.: 021-599-11-30. Open: non-stop.
cream leather armchairs set around a small atrium in the inside garden of the hotel. Coffee, tea, beer, and - later in the evening - the perfect place for cocktails and digestive before bed. The cafe is an entirely ‘smoking allowed’ venue. Air Conditioning, CC accepted, Parking, Outside Seating, Smoking free, Take Away, Wifi. 1, Poligrafiei Blvd.
(Crowne Plaza Hotel); Ph.: 021.224.00.34; Open: 09.00 – 02.00.
La Galette Restaurant & Snacking 2b : Relaxed & friendly dining atmosphere on the terrace. Wide range of snacks. French bakery. Cakes & pastries. Selection of Teas & Coffees. Take away. Designated Smoking Area. CC accepted. Free WiFi access. Free parking. Pullman
Bucharest World Trade Center, 10 Montreal Square. Ph.: 021-202-1633; Open: Mon. - Fri. 08:00 - 20:00; Sat. 09:00 - 18:00 Geisha Cafe 6d : High quality coffe in a very popular downtown location. 10, C.A. Rosetti St. Ph.: 021-315-7298. Open: 08:30 - 24:00. Grand Cafe Galleron: Large selection of drinks & coffes, quality simple food. Charming interiors, cozy atmosphere. Located in the heart of the city close to Atheneum in a superb old villa. C.C. accepted. Air conditioning, wi -fi access, smoking area.
18A, Nicolae Golescu St. Ph.: 021-312-4565. Open: 09:00 - 24:00.
Jolie Cafe: Ideal venue for a coffee break or a business meeting. C.C. accepted. Guarded parking lot. JOLIE VILLE GALLERIA - 103 bis, Erou Iancu Nicolae St., groundfloor. Ph.: 021-206-8067. Open: daily 12:00 - 22:00.
READERS CAFE 5D – Cafe-Bistro-Lounge. This place is for those who want to enjoy a coffee and a tasty, well priced meal, read a good book and listening to pleasant music. Mon-Fri between 11:00-15:00 enjoy their dish of the day. Smoking and non-smoking areas; Free wi-fi access; underground paking lot available after 19:00 56-60, Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd (Metropolis Center, ground floor) Ph: 0737 323 377 Open: Mon-Sat: 09:00 – 23:00; Sun closed Serendipity Tea House 6d : Tea and lots of it. There are more than 55 types of tea available, including the trademark Serendipity, an aromatic yet fruity green tea with more than a hint of strawberries. A quiet location just off an otherwise busy central street make this superb choice for long, peaceful afternoons reading a good book with a great cup of tea or two. Oh, and we should point out that coffee menu is not bad either. CC accepted, free wireless internet.12, Dumbrava Rosie St.
Ph.: 021-211-3100, 0730-344-810. Open: Mon.-Fri. 15:00-22:00, Sat.-Sun: 12:00-22:00
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when the night comes Pubs and Cocktail Bars Bar “37” 7d : The bar gives you the opportunity to experience the excellent view of Calea Victoriei. Creative cocktails, large wine list and food snack offer. Do not miss the Mediterranean Tapas finger food experience every day starting 18:30. Summer terrace and underground parking available. CC accepted. Novotel Bucarest City Centre -
37B, Calea Victoriei. Ph.: 021-308-8500. Open: Mon. – Fri. 07:00 - 02:00, Sat. – Sun. 09:00 - 02:00. Beach Bar 6d : For 64 persons, offering poolside comfort foods,draught beer, frozen Margarita & fresh lemonade. CC accepted. Non-smoking. 63-81, Calea
Victoriei, Radisson Blu Hotel, ground floor garden. Ph.: 021-601-3436. Open seasonal, May to September, 09:00 - midnight.
BIUTIFUL by FRATELLI: Biutiful place, biutiful people, biutiful atmosphere 6-8, Gabroveni St.
Ph: 0737-297-297 Open: Tue-Sun: 12:00 – 01:00; Mon: 17:00 – 01:00. Reservations available only until 20:00. They don’t take reservations between 20:00 – 01:00 Bla Lounge Bar 6d : Centre ice bar in atrium for 108 persons. Vodka, Cocktails, Beverages & Snacks in a hear, feel, taste mood. CC accepted. Non-smoking. 63-81, Calea
Victoriei, Radisson BLU Hotel groundfloor. Ph.: 021-311-9000; Open: Mon.-Fri. 08:00 - 02:00; Sat.-Sun. 08:00 - midnight.
Centro Bar & Lounge 6d : The perfect place for a business meeting or for a relaxing drink after a busy day. Our fresh selection of sandwiches, salads and pastry products make it a relaxing and refreshing place for any time of the day. Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Hotel, Calea
Dorobantilor 5 – 7, Open daily 09:00 – 00:30 Ph.: 021 201 5000 / ext 340
Caffe & Latte 6C : Before or after a pleasant walk through Cismigiu Park, in-between business meetings or... whenever, pay them a visit and let them spoil you with their home made specialities. They’ve got new goodies, breakfast choices, soups, salads and... lots of surprises that will keep on coming. Yours truly, Caffe & Latte! 35, Schitu
Magureanu St. Ph.: 031-415-8551 Open: 08.30 22.30
Dark Bla Bar 6d : Cognac & cigars bar for 34 persons. Single Malts, Cognacs & Cigars in an upscale & late night mood. CC accepted. Smoking. 63-81, Calea
Victoriei, Radisson BLU Hotel groundfloor. Ph.: 021311-9000; Open: Mon.-Fri. 17:00 - 02:00., Sat.-Sun. 08:00 - midnight. The Dubliner Irish Pub 5b : Genuine Irish atmosphere. Draught beer. Air-conditioned. Very popular among the members of the English speaking community. 18,
Titulescu Blvd. Ph.: 021-222-3737; 021-222-9473. Open: 12:00 - 02:00. English Bar 6d : Relax in the soft lighting and
traditional decor of the Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest hotel’s inviting English Bar. Choose from over 40 whiskies, sip a cocktail or order form the international snack menu. Enjoy a Cuban cigar to round off your night. CC accepted.
Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest, 1-3, Episcopiei St. Ph.: 021-303-3777. Open: 11:00 - 02:00
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Frame Club 6d the movie club in town is inviting you everyday to be part of the various events that are happening there: karaoke nights, live acts, weekend special DJ parties, chill-out nights or film screenings.Cozy place, perfect for private parties or any other special occasion. Some of the best cocktails in town. Free wifi internet, air conditioning, CC accepted. 38B, Magheru Blvd (Romana Square)
Ph: 021 - 211.01.44 / 0730.11.77.03 Open: Mon – Thur 10:00 – until the last guest leaves, Fri – Sat: 10:00 – 05:00, Sun: 15:00 – until the last guest leaves.
Green Hours 22 Jazz Café 5c : Hip and unique. Enjoy exotic cocktails and coffee in a neon-lit, tubeshaped bar, with live, trippy jazz-rock on one end and cozy couches on the other-like spending an evening in a surreal submarine. Also a relaxing outdoor patio that’s packed on weekend nights. Music most nights after 9 pm.. Morning coffee or nightly cocktails. 120, Calea Victoriei. Ph.: 0788-452-485; 021-313-8606. Open: non-stop
The Harp - IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT 7d : Great place to party with your friends and enjoy delicious Irish and International cuisine specialties accompanied by dark beer, good wine or signature cocktails. Enjoy live music in a cheerful atmosphere. Very popular among football fans and Guiness lovers. Special offer: Mo-Fr, 12:00-17:00; Free wi-fi, air conditioning, CC accepted.
1, Bibescu St. (Unirii Sq.); Ph: 0735-554-455 Open: 08:00 - 02:00
James Joyces 6c : A real Iris pub run by real paddy. 1-3, Valter Maracineanu Sq. Ph.021-311-4177; Palace Pub 8C : Situated in a remarkable historical building, Bragadiru Palace, in the near distance of the Parliament, Palace Pub has an impressing garden and a friendly interior design. “The best steak in town” is prepared from tender Argentinean beef. We serve a selection of Irish and International food and beverages. You can help yourself with draft beer from your table keg. Fridays and Saturdays we have Live Music and Karaoke program. 147-153,
Calea Rahovei, ground floor, Ph.: 0785-444-466, reservartion@palacepub.ro, www.palacepub.ro
Sky Wine Bar & Lounge: When you need to relax after a very busy day or you just want to break the dayto day routine, go to the Sky Wine Bar & Lounge. Located on the top floor of the building, the place offers a friendly and relaxed atmosphere during the day and an exquisite and elegant ambiance by night. With every return to this intimate lounge and wine bar, you will encounter an everevolving wine list populated with well-known fine wines, rare varietals, and exotic ‘cult’ wines. For the most demanding, the humidor is filled with exclusive hand made cigars and the brandy glasses have the perfect temperature, in the classical gentleman’s way. CC accepted, wireless internet, air conditioned, smoking area, parking lot. 134 Ghencea
Blvd. within the Premier Palace Hotel & Spa, Ph.: 031-407-6000. Open 11:00 - 23:00
Thomas Antiques Bar 7d : Taste the house wine and enjoy it on one of their sunny balconies. Wide range of beers and something special for ladies - „French Vanilla” or „Brazilian Nut”. Smoking & non smoking areas; Air conditioned; Free WiFi internet; CC accepted. 19, Covaci
St. 1st floor & attic, Ph: 0752 440 818, Open: bar (1st floor): Mon - Thu & Sun: 10:00 – 22:00, Fri – Sat: 10:00 – 24:00, attic: Mon – Sat: 10:00 – 20:00, Sun: 10:00 – 16:00 Trafalgar Pub 5d : Beer, wines, spirits and
snacks. Close to Turkish Embassy on Calea Dorobantilor. 4A,
David Emanuel St. Ph.: 021-211-3151. Open: 11.00 - till the last guest.
White Horse 4d : Pub & Restaurant. English & International cuisine. Wide selection of draught beers. CC accepted. 4A, G. Calinescu St. Ph.: 021-231-2795.
Open: 12:00 - until the last guest leaves.
CLUBS Bamboo: 39, Ramuri Tei St. Ph.: 0726 226 266 Bellagio Club: 31, Stefan cel Mare Blvd Ph: 0720 200 002 Blue Club: 290, Splaiul Independentei Ph: 0760 587 588 BOA – Beat of Angels: 31, Kiseleff St Ph: 0736 300 700 Icon Series Club: 111 – 113 Calea Floreasca Ph: 0721 260 011 Fratelli Social Events: 1-3 Glodeni St. Ph: 0731 036 222 Kristal Glam Club: 34, Regina Elisabeta Blvd. Ph: 0722 795 184 Old City: 45, Lipscani St., Ph: 0729-377-774 Princess Club Bucuresti: 24, Ghercu Constantin St. Ph: 0720-535-382 Studio Hermes Club & Lounge: The first social club in Bucharest to blend live music, good food, exquisite drinks and great company with contemporary culture, modern architecture, and multifaceted entertainment.16, Selari St., Ph: 0757.111.111
Open: Tue – Sun 18:00 – last client Mon - closed
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ABOUT ROMANIA
land of miracles
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Photo: • The Costila Peak (2490m) and Valea Cerbului / the Stag Valley, Bucegi Mountains
Away from the city, Romania reveals itself as the most unusual transition from the Carpathians, as grand as the Alps, the mild hills of Bucovina and Transylvania, the sun-burnt plateaus of Dobruja to the sunny Black Sea coast and the miracles of the Danube Delta, the place where wilderness still reigns.
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Photo: • The Constanta Marina
H
owever beautiful the landscape may be, you won’t get to its very core until you reach its invisible part, the one enriched with legends and tales. And the Romanians do have a legend for each and every place. At the sea coast, the Siutghiol Lake, currently the Mamaia Lake, the legend is about the divine punishment cast on an entire village for their lack of hospitality.
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In the east, the Ceahlau Massif is shaped like a fortress and the popular belief says that it used to be a quarry where a master stone cutter carved huge statues for his daughter. Still in the Eastern Carpathians, Luana’s Caves are said to be the prison of an alien female creature fallen in love with a man. Romanians believe the glacial lakes in the Retezat Mountains, in the center of the country, to be the tears of an old woman that cries over her sons. Altogether, these tales, and legends, and stories are the unseen face of this land. They are actually the spiritual geography that parallels the real one. The place is soaked in mystery. However, there is one aspect that reveals itself from
Photo: • The Pietrosu Mare Mountain
the very first step you take into this land: Romania is an oasis of Latin spirit. It is the Romanian language of Latin origin that is the handiest proof of the Latin nature of its people. The Romanian people are the result of the mixture between the GetoDacien native population and their Roman conquerors. In the fourth century B.C. in his writings, Herodotus is the first historian to mention the Getic population living north of the Danube River. The Romanians strongly believe in their Latin origin and, above all, they believe in God. Actually, they think that they have become Christians first, and then Romanians! Historically speaking, it was Saint Andrew who first came to today’s Dobruja, the former Scytia Minor, to spread God’s word. Hardly in the VI-VIIth centuries, did
the Dacien-Roman mixture result in the Romanian people. The traces of Saint Andrew’s passing are still here. They are hidden in a stonebuilt church, in a cave in Dobruja, today a pilgrimage place for the faithful. To reach it they have to climb the Urloaia Hill, in the Ioan Corvin village, 76 km away from the city of Constanta. They come here to pray but also to enjoy the healing power of this sacred place. The cave has the shape of a church but lacks the usual frescoes. Candles burn all over the place. The walls are covered in small pieces of paper stuck in the little cracks and fissures. Here people give up the usual practice of entrusting their prayers to priests. They write their prayers on paper and leave them with the angels. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Photos: • Traditional Romanian costumes
The following pages include a short description of the historical provinces of Romania and their not to miss landmarks and attractions. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Banat-Crisana Photo:
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f you choose to travel to the western part of Romania you will notice an atmosphere that has more Western European than Balkan influences. This change is obvious in the cities and as well as in people’s attitude. One good example of this is Timisoara, with its successful mixture between old and new. Churches, cathedrals and castles stand next to the shiny buildings of the present. There are also large parks and flower markets. Timisoara has a temperate climate, but you can feel a Mediterranean breeze, which means that you sometimes have to take off your sweater on the way from Bucharest to Timisoara. The troubled history of Banat has left an impressive number of monuments and archaeological vestiges; some of the most impressive include the House of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the Bastion of the Old Fortress of Timisoara, the Church of the Franciscan Monastery and the Tapae Monument (Traian’s Column in miniature). Timisoara is not only important for its past significance; it is also a town where recent history has been written. The Opera Square is now known as Revolution Square - the place where the Romanian Revolution started in December 1989. The first shouts of liberty were heard here and the first victims were claimed here.
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• Timisoara, Piata Unirii / Union Square / © Marcel Neag
Another interesting town is Oradea, where different architecture styles - from Renaissance and Baroque to Modern - mingle in a pleasant manner. The Citadel of Oradea was built between 1114 and 1131, and the city grew around it. Famous scientists and artists like Nicholaus Olahus and Albrecht Durer spent their youth here. A good itinerary of the town includes the Tara Crisurilor Museum, housed in a baroque palace built in 1762-1777, the Roman-Catholic Cathedral, the largest baroque style building in Romania, the State Theater and the Church with the Moon (1784). Situated about eight kilometers from Sudrigiu on the Oradea-Deva national highway, the town of Chiscani is home to Pestera Ursilor (the Bears’ Cave), one of Europe’s unique tourist attractions. The cave, considered the third most beautiful in the world, descends 1,500 meters into the Apuseni Mountains and provides an amazing challenge for the people who enjoy spelunking adventures. This region is easily accessible by car (European route E 70), train or plane and calls for a closer look from the casual passerby. The western side of Romania gives travelers a chance to simultaneously absorb the country’s history and its modernity.
Dobruja
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haring the Black Sea coast and the Danube Delta with Romania’s neighbors, Dobruja is one of the most important touristic regions in Romania. Whether traveling by train, car (a three hours drive from Bucharest) or by plane, there is always an interesting view to occupy your mind as you travel. A trip to any destination in Dobruja should be a top priority on your list. The region is divided into two counties, Tulcea to the north and Constanta to the south, completely different. The Romanian Black Sea coast is 245 km long, but the most beautiful, and popular, beaches lie on an 82 km strip of coastline stretching from Cape Midia in the north to Vama Veche near the Bulgarian border. The most tourist and spa resorts have been developed here. With an 8 km beach of fine sand and entertainment possibilities that include discothèques, water sports, sport grounds and the Aqua Park amusement park, Mamaia is the most popular resort on the sea coast. Performances at the Summer Theater, the Dolphinarium and the Aquarium also attract large numbers of visitors. Less than 15 minutes by car from Mamaia is Constanta; founded by the Greeks of Milet 2,500 years ago under the name of Tomis, vestiges of the ancient town still remaining in and around the area, adding great archeological and cultural interest to its aesthetic beauty. Sections of the town’s original defense walls can still be seen, as can amphoras, columns and the ruins of the ancient forts of Histria and Adamclisi. The Archeological Museum of Constanta exhibits an important collection of Roman statues, which provide visitors with a vivid image of the cultural atmosphere of ancient times. Tomis is also known as the city to which the poet Ovidius was exiled between A.D. 8 – 17. Follow the sea coast south from Constanta to the Bulgarian
border and you will find many more resorts. The hotels from Eforie Nord, Eforie Sud (recommended for spa treatments), Costinesti, Olimp, Neptun, Jupiter, Cap Aurora, Venus and Saturn lie along this strip. Costinesti is a popular resort for young people because “the party keeps going 24 hours a day”, at low prices. Discos, concerts, artists who draw your portrait in ten minutes, beach games and live concerts and TV broadcast shows - this is what the summer has to offer in Costinesti. South of Constanta, Mangalia is a town to keep in mind when planning a vacation. It has many sightseeing options, including the Callatis Archaeology Museum with its numerous Greek relics, the Syrian Basilica, the Hellenic necropolis and the Esmohan Sultan Mosque. There is also a stud farm where you can take horseback riding lessons. The nearby villages of 2 Mai and Vama Veche are very well known for their liberal atmosphere and the liberty of manners. Dobruja offers other options for visitors whose interests extend beyond sunbathing and dancing. The Danube Delta Biosphere Reservation covers the northern area of the region. It is the youngest land of Europe, just 11,000 years old, and takes the shape of an 80 km sided triangle. The main access to this area is gained over one of the three branches of the Danube, Sf. Gheorghe, Sulina and Chilia, which fan out like fingers reaching out to the sea, while curling around the lives of the region’s residents. Most of the tourist trails are found along the Sulina Channel, but, in order to discover the traditions and the way of life in the villages and to taste the area’s unique cuisine, it is better to find accommodation in one of the peasant houses. Experienced locals can help you to discover wild and mysterious places among the amazing water paths and channels of the Danube Delta. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Maramures
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n the northern part of Romania near the Ukraine border, a living museum of traditions and customs exists. Almost everything in the Maramures region has a story. The objects have their own history, the houses their own legends, and every gate is the entrance to a magic place. This is an area where the traditions and legends of old times are still very much a part of people’s everyday lives, the land where the past and the present become one. The village is Maramures’ main attraction. While there is almost nothing specifically designed for tourist purposes, the warm atmosphere and kind people invite travelers. The ideal choice is to stay in a pension in a village. Most people prepare their houses for guests - you just need to ask around when you reach the village. The price reasonable and it depends on the length of your stay. After spending a couple of days there and having a few drinks with your new family, you become part of the village. You will then be allowed to do and learn about small jobs around the house. Participating in the work that comes before a holiday celebration can give you a special feeling and makes you feel right at home. One of the most interesting features of this region are the wooden churches that can be found in almost every village. Some of the oldest are Desesti (1770), Sugatag (1642) and Budesti (1643). Standing 54 m in height, the Wooden Church of Surdesti used to be the tallest wooden building in Europe. It was recently surpassed by the church of the monastery in Barsana at 62 m. The oldest wooden church is in Ieud; built in 1364, the church has been restored
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several times. The Rohia Monastery is a sacred place for Christian spirituality - it houses a valuable library containing more than 50,000 books and rare manuscripts of the 17th and 18th centuries. There are many possible itineraries for exploring Maramures. Some of them start with the county capital - Baia Mare, where you can find buildings from the 15th to 18th centuries, Ethnography, Fine Arts and Archeology Museums and the Mineralogy Museum. Some alternative routes take you to the countryside, through Baia Sprie, Valea Marei, or Sighet, with trips to the mountains, skiing, fishing, swimming and rowing. Visit Sighet, Sapanta and Sambra Oilor, and see the Merry Cemetery, the Folk Festival (Sambra Oilor), or see Sighetu Marmatiei, Ieud, Sacel and Izvorul Izei. The options are endless, so organize trips in this area depending on your available time. In the small villages gathered around the town of Sighetu Marmatiei, the seasons have a different rhythm, and time doesn’t seem to obey the same laws. Traditions, history and the present are one. The myths of the past become reality during village holiday celebrations and ceremonies. The best time to see these happenings is during the winter celebrations - villagers dressed in all kinds of masks welcome you at every corner, and the devils, ghosts and the dark spirits come back to life through the acting of peasant artists. On December 26 to 28, Sighetu Marmatiei, the second largest town of the county and also an important cultural center, celebrates the Winter Folk Customs and Traditions festival.
Moldavia
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ith its legendary past illustrated by the abundance of monuments and local legends, Moldova is a fascinating region. Its people, princes and lords were traditionally Christians, and their lives were spiritually centered. Many traditions and customs from the olden times have been perfectly preserved in the area, and the villages reflect a heritage of simplicity, of life close to nature, ordered by mythical rules. Almost every town in Moldova has an important place in the history of the country and its cultural development. The regional capital of Iasi is an essential repository of Romania’s cultural heritage. It hosts three of the oldest universities in Romania, many theaters, 16 museums, numerous historic buildings, including Ion Creanga’s home, now the oldest museum in the country. The Princely St. Nicholas Church, founded by Stephen the Great in 1491, and the famous Trei Ierarhi Church, founded by Vasile Lupu in 1638, are also located here. Because of its monumental architecture and the numerous places of interest, Iasi is considered to be the first “museum town” in the country. The northern part of Moldavia is divided into two counties, Suceava and Botosani, both including many “not to be missed” areas. The History Museum in Botosani houses relics of human settlements more than 100,000 years old - the oldest known evidence of human settlement in the country. A few kilometers away, in Ipotesti, is the national poet Mihai Eminescu’s Memorial House.
Photos: • Putna Monastery (left); Sucevita Monastery (right)
Suceava, 433 km from Bucharest on European route E20, is a good base from which to embark on trips to the famous monasteries in Moldavia. Here also stands the Throne Fortress, built by the voivode Petru I Musat about 600 years ago. The most famous of the painted churches in the area is in the Voronet Monastery. Built under the rule of Stephan the Great, in 1488, the Voronet Monastery is known for the “Blue of Voronet,“ a unique shade of blue to the impressive frescos painted on its exterior walls. Be sure to visit other sacred monasteries such as Sucevita - 20 km from Radauti, Dragomirna, in Mitocul Dragomirnei - 12 km from Suceava and many others. The tomb of beatified ruler Stephan the Great is in the Putna Monastery - visiting here is a good opportunity to hear about his courage and famous heroic acts defending Christianity. Leaving the Suceava county going south, there are more settlements where mystery and the mystical are parts of everyday life. The monasteries of Neamt, Agapia, Varatec and Secu are such places. The county capital, Piatra Neamt is also interesting for its museums and old buildings. The northern region of Moldavia has many cultural destinations - make sure you plan a trip to this side of the country thoroughly, so not to miss any of its great relics. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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Transylvania
S
urrounded by the Carpathian Mountains, the Transylvania region is a fortress that, for the last thousand years, has welcomed well-intended visitors and defied enemies who came with concealed ideas. The charm of the legends that surround Transylvania is that it’s impossible to tell whether they are true or false. This has always been a land of legends and spirits, but, in recent years, one ghost from the past has dominated its image - Dracula. Any curious wanderer can try to find the true story of Dracula; many contradictory versions of the legend can be gathered from all areas of the region, but the best bet is to listen carefully to the guide’s speech at Bran Castle, the supposed residence of the mythical vampire king. The most important city of Transylvania has two names - Cluj is the name given to the ancient Dacians citadel, and Napoca is its Latin name. It is difficult to list all of the museums, historic buildings, monuments and gardens here, but one sure-fire hit is the Botanical Gardens. Opened in 1872, these gardens hold approximately 11,000 species of plants from all over the world. With its fancy restaurants, antique shops, theaters and opera houses and fascinating sightseeing around the city, Cluj-Napoca is a good destination for all tastes. There are many remnants of medieval times spread throughout Transylvania, but the only citadel in Europe from that era which is fully inhabited today is Sighisoara. Mentioned for the first time in an official document in 1280, the town has impressively preserved its ancient ambiance. Every building in the medieval town is a monument, and every street keeps the marks of the past. Some places to be sure to visit on a trip to Sighisoara are the Citadel with its nine defense towers, the History Museum,
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Photos: • Sighisoara - Clock Tower (left); • Brasov - Black Church (right)
the Museum of Medieval Weapons, the House with Stag Horns and the Venetian House. Because of the authentic background it offers, Sighisoara plays host to the International Medieval Art Festival, the Old Music Festival, the Classical Music Festival and an array of conferences and symposia on historical topics. Another area of the region worth spending a pleasant holiday in is Sibiu. The tourist facilities in and around the city develop fast, and, in the winter, nearby Paltinis is a popular resort for those who enjoy skiing. The county seat of Sibiu, known as Hermanstadt during the time of the Germanic Empire, is sprinkled with monuments and establishments that deserve to be seen, such as the Brukental Museum, towers and churches of medieval times, many of which retain marks of the German influence. At Transylvania’s “border” with Wallachia lies the most famous mountain resort in Romania - Poiana Brasov. This resort provides facilities for winter - skiing, sledding and skating. It takes half an hour by bus to go from Poiana Brasov to Brasov, a town mentioned for the first time in 1234 by the name Corona. There are many historic places to visit in Brasov, including the historic Black Church; the city also serves as the starting point for many hiking trails leading into the surrounding mountains. You shouldn’t hesitate to enter the gates of Brasov and, at the same time, the gates of Transylvania.
Wallachia
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he southern region of Romania has its own natural borders - the Carpathian Mountains to the north and west and the Danube River to the south and east. The scenery changes from wide plains to gentle hills to steep mountains, so tourists can choose their own trails. Because of the highways and mild relief (the Romanian Plain and the Sub-Carpathians Hills), it is possible to organize one-day excursions to the main cities and points of interest while still keeping a residence in Bucharest. The Carpathians’ most popular tourist zone is Prahova Valley. A trip should start with a visit to the city of Ploiesti, 60 km north of Bucharest. Visit the unique Clocks Museum in Ploiesti, where time defies its own nature and literally stands still. Going north, the next stop could be Sinaia, a well-known resort town situated at an altitude of approximately 1,000 m. The Royal Family of Romania’s first residence outside of the capital until 1947 is located here. Peles Castle is the town’s main attraction - it was built at the end of the 19th century. It has 160 rooms adorned with valuable art collections, weapons and beautiful furnishings. Sinaia and the surrounding towns of Busteni, Azuga and Breaza provide many facilities for a great holiday - ski trails, marked hiking trails, a golf trail, chalets and accommodations ranging from hotels, motels and villas to guesthouses and private rooms in local residences.
Photo: • Sinaia - Peles Castle
A different route from Sinaia to Bucharest passes through Targoviste, the capital of Wallachia between the 14th and 16th centuries. Famous monarchs related to this town account for more than 600 years of recorded history: Mircea cel Batran, Vlad Tepes, Petru Cercel and Constantine Brancoveanu were all residents. From those ancient times you can see only the ruins of the Princely Court, the Chindia Tower and the Princely Churches remain, all of which provide the proper scenery to hear the legends and learn the history of Romania. Interesting churches and monasteries can be visited throughout the region of Wallachia. Examples of precious art and architecture styles are Curtea de Arges, the old capital of Wallachia near Pitesti; Dealu Monastery in the neighborhood of Targoviste and Cozia and Hurezi in the Ramnicu Valcea area. Constantin Brancusi, a great modern sculptor whose influence is still felt today, was born in the western part of the region. He raised in Romanian folklore tradition and studied at Rodin’s school; some of his monumental works, such as “The Table of Silence,” “The Gate of Kiss” and “The Endless Column,” are main attractions in Targu Jiu. Wallachia has many exciting destinations - here legends come to life, and the picturesque present will bring you back again and again. Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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danube delta
journeys to the
Gabriela Iacob
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I enjoy the silence, the sun and its perpendicular beams, the horizon limited by the reed thicket a few yards away, the water I am paddling my hand in.
I
experienced my first encounter with the Danube Delta during my childhood years. It occurred in the most unusual place: the place where the Danube river and the Black Sea meet at Sfantu Gheorghe. I had traveled early in the morning by a small fast boat along the Sfantu Gheorghe river branch but had slept all journey long, so here I am on the beach with the finest sand on the entire sea shore at the time when the sun has not has the time to get unbearably hot. Sea gulls are flying smoothly above the water. Someone points to something that I find utterly extraordinary. It is the separation line between the Danube and the sea. Though wide enough, the Danube flows into the sea and the place where they meet can be clearly seen as a winding line between the muddy brown Danube waters and the blue sea. I easily climb the sand dunes and it seems to me that the very air above the sea is even bluer and clearer. In front of me, the horizon, the sea and the seagulls, on my right, the yet undiscovered delta. To me the delta seemed only reed thicket which I cannot possibly understand why everybody talks about. Neither have I gotten to know the delta on my way back because, for this or that reason, some punishment had got me crying.
Photo: • Worm colors / Š Mihai Baciu Welcome to Bucharest & Romania |
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ABOUT ROMANIA Photo: • Pelican colony / © Georg Scholz
I remember my second encounter even less. This time, a trip along the Sulina river branch, again by boat. Born and bred on the bank of the Danube river, its flowing does not move me at all even if now its banks are clad in willows and reeds. Still, I like the small wooden bridge - like pontoons in front of households. Suddenly, some horses run wildly on one of the banks. Just as a small herd of wild horses running free. They are very beautiful and the sun shines against their backs. I tell myself they must be wild horses. It cannot be otherwise. I don’t ask anyone about it to avoid getting disappointed. But their mad run I shall always associate to the freedom that seems to me to be natural here. I finally got to know the delta on my third encounter. And I got to know it because of a bet. Before leaving Bucharest, I had read in order to brush up with everything I had learned in school: that it is the country’s youngest piece of land, consisting of three branches of the Danube river accompanied on their side by lakes, marshes, streams and channels.
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The Delta, “the kingdom of waters and water-born lands” is the lowest form of relief where over 300 bird species live; for most of them it is their native place, for some a mere halt during their flight towards warmer lands. It is formed both of winding channels, sparkling fish - abundant lakes, sand banks and floating reed islets. The floating reed islet is formed of roots, reed thickets and vegetal debris. I read about the swan, egret, pelican and spoonbill reservations, about the white or yellow lily - covered lakes, about its primitive nature and hidden wilderness. Still nothing could have prepared me for the joy I felt during the two days I spent on the Caraorman Sandbank. I had come here to see the “desert in the Delta” so this was the first place I wanted to see. The Caraorman dunes, over 6 - meter high, are almost white under the dazzling sunshine. The light sea wind slightly pushed the fine sand from bottom to top. When reaching the top, it is swept away. People say the dune “smokes”. Beyond the dunes, there is a subtropical - looking oak forest; among the trees, all sorts of climbing plants grow. I couldn’t possibly share the
feeling I had here while looking at the swept away dunes or the forest. I adopted from the natives the calm poise of the man to whom the everyday beauty seems to be usual. I ended my day playing football with the children on the beach. I went to bed thinking that I had just seen the best sunset ever. Thank God, each day has its share of newness. The next day I floated along the channels not to watch the fishermen but to finally enjoy the wild silence of the delta. Many of the things I liked and still do are coming to mind now. I enjoy the silence, the sun and its perpendicular beams, the horizon limited by the reed thicket a few yards away, the water I am paddling my hand in. I also like the shape of the boat and the chattiness of my guide, a local in his thirties, who seems to me to have aged too early. He explains to me each and every fishing tool he has and they are quite a few. He often refers to the tools that are typical to each and every fish and, if I got it right, to the tools that are typical of certain areas of the delta inhabited by some other nations. I listen to him and smile as,
in reality, I understand nothing of all this. I could float on the channels all my life but I can’t see the reason why I could just sit and watch a fishing rod. My guide understands what I dare not say and suddenly burst out laughing. He tells me we will have fish chowder at the fishery when the sun goes down. Although it happens repeatedly, when we pass through an unexplored place deep in the reed thicket, one or several birds startle and soar, well, this never fails to amaze me. And this moment of silence, when you are small, floating on the water, and around merely water, green, and sun, broken in two by a bird’s flight, yet this seems unique in some strange sort of way. And it does happen again. Later, I did not move at all while waiting, on the Swan Nest Lake, when, almost at sunset, I watched the swans and I could say that, the moment I saw them, that very moment, the first feeling I experienced was fear. I stopped breathing. I could not believe that in between there is no Tv screen.
Photo: • Rowing home / © M. Gunther
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