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LOCAL
–My Mykonos– Art dealer, author, amateur viticulturist and winemaker, connoisseur and organiser of cultural events: Dimitris Roussounelos is the right person to guide us to the island of the winds. Βy Melissa Stoili
D
imitris Roussounelos knows Mykonos not only because he is a native
news and annotation of the day are deposited by the locals, and... all the problems
but mainly because he loves the island deeply. He loves every alley,
are solved until the next day comes when they arise again.
every wave, every vineyard, everything that has to do with the island.
Meanwhile, the ships for the magical ancient Delos start at 9:00 in the morning and
He is well aware of its daily life and of its gastronomy, its products, its
I think it is worth a 4-hour walk for a start. Personally, having visited Delos hundreds
traditional events and its cosmopolitan side.
of times, I consider it a place that is manifested to me gradually and every time I am
We remember him for over 30 years, since he set up Scala Gallery in Matogianni,
moved by the immediacy of approach to the everyday life of a culture that flourished
to trade art and jewellery. He is an amateur viticulturist and winemaker, organiser
more than 2,000 years ago. Here at the end of a moving tour between the houses,
of cultural and local gastronomic events, foodblogger (karvounawordpress.com
the temples and the theatre of the vast area of ruins, I like enjoying a sandwich
and olastakarvounablogspot.com) and above all a tireless seeker of flavour. He is
that I have purchased from Mykonos, next to the sea. I like seafood flavours and
from Mykonos and he talks to us about his own Mykonos.
sometimes I add some fragrant sea fennel from the shore to boost the flavour. The return to Mykonos includes drinking a glass of ouzo with meze in the coffee
Describe your favourite 24-hours on the island.
shop and then return home and swim in the sea. Every time I choose a different
I will hardly distinguish something specific. I like alternations and trust me, even
route from the many and labyrinthine narrow streets of Chora. This is the magic
on such a small island as Mykonos you can find ways and sweet occasions to get
of Mykonos. Getting lost in the alleys. It is such a small place that in a few short
away from the ordinary and the detrimental repetition.
minutes you can find yourself in a known destination.
However, one of the most beautiful
I swim early in the morning or late in the
things on the island is the enjoyment
afternoon and this is in itself a choice
of the morning in Gialos in one of the
that does not bring you in contact with
many coffee shops of the Old Port. This
the great stream of visitors, so the enjoy-
requires an early start and therefore to
ment of the sea is different. You can read
have slept relatively early, so in addi-
your book or newspaper like a normal
tion to a rich breakfast, you can also
person. Rest your thoughts and eyes just
catch up on the fishermen selling the
by letting yourself enjoy the landscape.
fish down at the beach and the green
I’m not one for dancing and the frantic
grocers with their fresh seasonal vege-
rhythms. In fact, I’m not anymore... so
tables. It is a small market in the ancient
I close my day with a glass of wine or
Greek meaning of the Agora. There the
spirits in places where the intensity of
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46 LOCAL
ucts, traditional pies (onionpie, honeypie), Mykonos meatballs with chopped pork meat, the local cured meat louza and the sausage, ripening in the air and smelling of savoury and oregano and excellent cheeses: Tyrovolia, Kopanisti, Xinotyro, local Graviera (Boiled) and fresh Kopanisti Niari etc. Which is the best season? It depends on what each person is looking for. How and what they want to experience. Personally I like autumn. I love the peace of winter. The experience of the rebirth of the nature from March to May. But I’m equally delighted when I’m on the rock and I feel the waves in August, it’s like music that keeps me tied to the place with the strongest feelings. the music allows for a discussion. Finally, I think that for a tourist in Mykonos the route is a matter of choice and it depends very much on what time you go to bed and
Where would you recommend a walk to see some of the pieces of the island’s history? The entire area of the Castle around Paraportiani remains one of the most important
what time you wake up in the morning...
places in the Aegean, both in terms of architecture and history. The three very important
How different is Mykonos of the visitors to the one of the locals?
mills. The small churches in Chora, some of which will be open for even for a short time.
In the summer, the locals do not enjoy our island. That’s reasonable, since we are a service provider, and in recent years, we offer high services which are very well paid. Guests don’t have to worry. Everything good on the island is at their disposal. As long, of course, as they want and choose it, either in parallel or apart from the beaten track. Most of the visitors have come exactly for this beaten track, and understandably, to live and experience the frenzied pace of Mykonos. What most people miss is the sweet spring and especially the incredibly beautiful and seductive autumn of Mykonos. That’s when the rhythms change and Mykonos is again an island, an island worth falling in love with... Where can you eat like a local, and what should you definitely try? I would suggest the Ouzeri tavern “Bagoyias” at Gialos beach at the Old Port, the “Captain’s” tavern, in the alleys of Chora the restaurant “Ma’ergio”, the restaurant “Maizevelo” at the New District Road, the grill restaurant “Lounta” on the way to Platys Gialos and the “Odos Araxame” tavern, the grill house “Oti Apomeine” and the restaurants of the square of the village in Ano Mera. From foods and products on the island, I would generally suggest seasonal prod-
museums: the Archaeological, the Folklore, the Maritime. The House of Lena, the windPieces of culture put in the right place, that make up a timeless mosaic. Get lost in Chora; literally. Indulge into the magic of the unknown. Touch the architectural distillation of the wisdom of local craftsmen. Soon you will realise that it is intimate, friendly and at least interesting to tour one of the major settlements of the Cyclades. It’s not incidental that it was praised by great architects such as the Swiss Le Corbusier or Greek Aris Konstantinidis. And if you leave the city, visit the Armenistis lighthouse, the two monasteries of Ano Mera, Tourliani and Paliokastro. But do not neglect, when leaving, to mentally take with you in your luggage, the sunrise at Dibounia, the amazing sunset with the sun tilting alongside the island of the god of light and music, Apollo, Delos and finally the rising of the moon full at Kalafatis beach. * Dimitris Roussounelos has written many books, among which two have been translated into English –Tastes of sacrifice: The pig feast on Mykonos, Athens, Indiktos 2004 and The Kopanisti Cheese of Mykonos - The Past, the Future, and 43 Recipes, Mykonos, Scala Gallery, 2018– as well as a small photo album in six languages (Greek, English, French, German, Italian, Spanish): The pelican spirit, Mykonos, Scala Gallery, 2010, photos by: Vivi D. Chanioti, text: Dimitris Roussounelos.
REDEFINE
experience
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48 LOCAL
–In the mind of Alberto Giacometti– Inspired by a work of the top sculptor, the collective modern art exhibition “The Palace at 4 a.m.” is hosted at the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos, proving that a creation of 1932 can be merged with contemporary thought and produce many artistic surprises.
Left to right: Zohra Opoku - Life Oak Tree, 2015, Cyperus Papyrus, 2015, Ficus Carica, 2015, Rhododendron, 2015-2016, Dicksonia Antartica, 2015 (installation view ©Panos Kokkinias).
body, free from the conventions and the need of reason, can take whatever form they like and carry out the most fertile excesses. This uncanny scene of the masterpiece of Giacometti is used by the exhibition to invoke the spirits, ceremonies and myths that haunt archaeological sites, such as the seductive Delos. Its statues, architectural fragments, vessels and tombstones which are collected here, characterise a cosmopolitan community that disappeared two millennia ago. Just as Delos once joined people from all over the world, the exhibition “The Palace at 4 a.m.” contains an impressive global list of 13 artists. Thirty two works in total are presented, two of which are new assignments of NEON specifically for the exhibition. The narrative flows between spaces, seeking to bring out common elements that span over millennia, cultures and continents. There is a consistency from space
Βy Irene Sagia
T
to space, but at the same time a freedom, like the one experienced by the human existence when dreaming.
his summer, Mykonos has a very interesting artistic experience to
Like a theatrical curtain, the monumental decorative curtain of Duro Olowo (a new as-
offer: the collective modern art exhibition “The Palace at 4 a.m.”, with
signment by NEON for the exhibition) combines multifaceted fabrics from the north-
which the organisation NEON and the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cy-
ern and southern hemispheres and acts as a prelude to the exhibition. An installation
clades continue their collaboration for the summer of 2019. The ex-
of artefacts that refer to both the Platonic and the carnal love was created by Haris
hibition takes place at the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos until
Epaminonda. Simone Fattal presents her ceramics, which refer to Japanese haiku
the 31st of October 2019, curated by Elina Kountouri, Director of NEON and Iwona
and bring to mind the ruins of the classical era and shapes of monsters, while Rena
Blazwick, OBE, Director of the Whitechapel Gallery of London.
Papaspyrou magically transforms modern waste into archaeological fragments:
Inspired by the museum’s collection, the exhibition borrows its title from the work
the “trash” of the past is the treasure of the future. Ian Law intervenes in showcases
of one of the greatest artists of our time, Alberto Giacometti, “The Palace at 4 a.m.”.
with the sacred artefacts, with votive figures embodying the ashes of the dead.
But let’s start from the beginning: Alberto Giacometti created “The Palace at 4
In the central room, Paloma Varga Weisz drops a beautifully crafted stochastic femi-
a.m.” many years ago, in 1932. It is a small sculptural composition of wood that
nine figure from the sky; suspended hanging from a baroque curtain that has elements
represents a surrealistic encounter, a mysterious theatrical setting, including the
of an atmospheric thriller. Underneath, there are two dynamic, expressive ceramic
dramatic coexistence between a woman, a bird and a spine. Above these protag-
works by the famous painter Lynda Benglis. Giacometti’s work comes alive in Daria
onists dominates a totemic entity. The scene is a palace before dawn, an hour of
Martin’s film “In the Palace”, where the creator reconstructs the tiny sculpture as a
dreams, ghosts and secret assignments. That is, the time during which mind and
natural-size scenery for a group of performers who attempt avant-garde positions
summer 2019
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50 LOCAL
Artist Petrit Halilaj (©Panos Kokkinias).
The works coexist with the permanent archaeological collection of the museum
and gestures. A spiral map of fragments by Stefania Strouza (a new assignment from NEON for the exhibition) refers to the wanderings of Leto –the mistress of Jupiter– around the Aegean islands, composing an altar dedicated to female deities. Besides, eroticism is evident on an island like Mykonos. In another wing of the museum, the imposing porcelain vessels of Barthélémy Toguo are thinly coated to present the lethal iconography of the virus in the African society. Opposite of them are hanging self-portraits of Zohra Opoku printed on fabrics from Ghana, having its image formed by elements of the flora surrounding it. Where the museum becomes a place of withdrawal for vessels of antiquity, Petrit Halilaj gives life again to broken ceramics and transforms them into birds for which he has built two nests. At another point he has installed the most deadly enemy of museum conservators –a huge moth hanging from the ceiling of the museum, a metaphor for those who reveal themselves only under the protection of the night. That is, when the souls are more free and are not afraid to reveal their deepest darkness to one another. In the garden of the museum, Maria Loizidou has hanged a huge hand-made tomato from a stainless steel grid, a remnant of a beast which has either been chased and pelted or has shed its skin to be able to relive, to have a second chance in being.
and some additional creations, carefully selected by the archaeologists of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades. As explained by Elina Kountouri, Director of NEON and co-curator of the exhibition, “the blending of ancient and contemporary exhibits demonstrates how the human need for enforcing order in a seemingly unruly universe produced ancient mythological creatures and preserves the animistic beliefs, maintained even today in large parts of Africa, the Southeast Asia, and Central and South America. Coexistence reminds us of our common vulnerabilities –how we imprint and portray what we fear and, at the same time, have expectations”. According to Iwona Blazwick, OBE, Director of Whitechapel Gallery and co-curator of the exhibition, “The comparison of antique artefacts with works of art today reveals common sensitivities, fears and desires. As technology expands the virtual approach around the world, it is through these everyday objects that we are able to overcome time. They provide the tangible bond linking our lives with those of our ancient ancestors and, in turn, they are the monuments we leave for the future generations”. “The Archaeological Museum of Mykonos temporarily incorporates contemporary art to ultimately redefine the criticality of monumental heritage as a constituent element and as a pillar of the Cycladic society. The past welcomes the present within its house, and the museum, from an entrenched memory pole, transforms into a creative workshop of cultural meetings”, notes Dimitris Athanasoulis, director of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades. Inside this exciting existential journey, we can discover fragments of our own self. The one who lives in today and the one who –why not?– existed in a previous life. Information: neon.org.gr
Left to right: Barthélémy Toguo - Vaincre le virus! XI, 2016, Vaincre le virus! VIII, 2016, Vaincre le virus! IIΙ, 2016, Vaincre le virus! II, 2016, all ©Barthélémy Toguo (installation view ©Panos Kokkinias).
summer 2019
Iwona Blazwick, OBE, Director of the Whitechapel Gallery of London and Elina Kountouri, Director of NEON (©Panos Kokkinias).
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–Vaya Kalantzi–
Sax-ess Story Alexis Asikelis Photography
Βy Irene Sagia
Vaya Kalantzi has named her alter ego and her artistic substance.
The talented saxophone performer gives her shows at exclusive events on the cosmopolitan island of Cyclades, but also in New York and everywhere in the world.
clothes there. Understanding, at a very early age, how hyperactive I was, my
W
“My mother was born in Brazil. My grandfather had a family industry with mother insisted on me learning the saxophone. Why the saxophone? To carry it with me everywhere and always. Otherwise, if I could sit still, I would probably have learned the piano. My mother insisted that I would learn to play properly. She taught me discipline, which is a necessary element in music. I’m so glad I did justice to her. Indeed, I travel everywhere with my saxophone. I give my music performances mainly to exclusive VIP events in Mykonos, Cyprus, Rhodes, New York and elsewhere, wherever they invite me and I am inspired to go. I’m a manager of myself, very accessible through my website and social media. I play e met at a break from her summer shows. She stands up very
in private events organised by big companies, but also in weddings, christen-
often to show that for her, the saxophone is like an extension
ings, birthday parties of people who have the aesthetics and a view on music.
of her body. She re-enacts the moves she makes during her
I like to be present at the joy of others, to celebrate with them in my own way”.
performance: “I bring it here, I bring it there, I lift it up, I get
“I play the saxophone, I do theatre, I dance, I write lyrics, I paint, I make tattoos –I
tangled with the people, I go down, I cannot stay put at the
learned that in Berlin when I went there for three days and ended up staying for
same spot. I’m a musician, but I’m a dancer too”. She is “Miss Saxo Vaya” as
two and a half years. I don’t understand why I should have to choose one thing
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54 LOCAL only. Usually, if someone cannot put on you a particular label, they get stressed.
to move and dance with it, as if it were my most beloved partner. The musician
I know that the saxophone is my karma and that I have a relationship for life with
must be an athlete. If you pay attention you’ll notice that in order to play any
it, but that does not prevent me from doing other things that I am just as good at”.
instrument, you have to get into very strange body postures. If you remove a
“Mykonos is like an independent state. If Greece is a big department store,
musician from his organ, you will not understand why they bent, why they bow
Mykonos is like a luxury shop with all the expensive brands. However, apart from
their neck, why they hold their arms and legs in such a position”.
the high society and glamour, it also has some of the most beautiful beaches of
“I want to be a very good professional. I always check the place where I’m
the Aegean. And it is also next to Delos, the most luminous and magical part of
going to play, find which is the best angle, what I am going to wear; I treat it as
the planet. When you go there, you are baptised into the light”.
a theatrical performance. Very often, we end up dancing all night, me with the
“Another thing I love in Mykonos is that it is one of the most multicultural places
saxophone and the audience with all that our energy creates. I like to improvise,
in the world. You see people getting down the stairs, speaking in English, Italian,
I never play as if I hit play on a tape. Very often, I jam with the music played by
French, German... this sound, all the languages mixed together, it lulls me when
the DJs, all this becomes interactive and vibrant”.
I go to sleep. My favourite beach is Agios Sostis. I like going to the end, its far
“My immediate plans are to travel to Africa and Asia. Besides, this was the
side. There is nothing there, just a wooden shack. And immense beauty”.
original plan of my life: to become a musician to travel around the world. Not
“The saxophone has a degree of difficulty for both men and women. It is consid-
as a tourist, as a traveller”.
ered a “male” instrument because it’s heavy. I have this permanent callus on my finger as a badge. And I definitely have very strong hands to carry it, to pick it up,
www.misssaxovaya.com
Alexis Asikelis Photography
summer 2019
Akti kambani Mýkonos, Kikladhes, Greece | T.: +30 2289028256, +30 6948104405, +30 6944786370 E: kazarma@kazarmamykonos.gr | www.facebook.com/kazarmamykonos
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–Delos Where the light was born
Βy Kelly Kiki
The Sacred Island of antiquity is merely a breath away and awaiting you to discover how all this History and mythology can spring from such a tiny piece of land.
A
dot on the Mediterranean map, a great natural island archaeological site, a world treasure. An uninhabited island, an unquestionable meeting point of cultures, the largest trading post of the world and a tax haven of antiquity. Within a stone’s throw from Mykonos, the isle of Delos, 5km in length and 1,300m in width, is
a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990, housing many monuments of the Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic periods, reminding modern visitors that they step right where the light was born. According to the Greek mythology, Lytos, bearing the fruit of her love with Jupiter, was desperate, hunted and persecuted everywhere, as a result of Hera’s wrath for her husband’s infidelity. For this reason, the primary god of the Olympian Pantheon asks his brother, Poseidon, the god of the Sea, to help him: he urges him to make still the invisible and pointlessly wandering rock, named Adelos, so that Lytos can find shelter and give birth. Poseidon is doing so, and the rock, from “Adelos” (which means “latent”), becomes “Delos” (that is “revealed”, as the name of the island indicates in Greek). There, Lytos gives birth to Apollo, the god of Light, and his twin sister Artemis, the goddess of the Moon. Today, Delos, which has “baptised” the Cyclades, as a group of islands developed circularly around it (that is the meaning of the word “Cyclades” in Greek), stands at the centre of the Aegean Sea as “a Utopia that used to be” as written by the archaeologist P. I. Hatzidakis. Indicatively, the inhabitants of Delos fist built their elliptical huts, around 2,500 BC, at the top of the hill Kynthos (113m high), from where you can gaze across the Aegean. At the end of the 15th century BC, the Mycenaeans, masters of
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58 LOCAL the Aegean Sea, settled on the island. Later, during the Archaic and Classical periods, the Apollonian Temple reached its peak, and later, when Romans, the regulators of the Aegean, declared tax exemptions for the port of Delos, traders, bankers and ship-owners from all the then known world settled in the place, attracting builders, craftsmen and artists who undertook to build luxury homes. At the beginning of the 1st century BC, it is estimated that some 30,000 people were living on Delos, potentially trading 750,000 tonnes of commodities per year. The Temple of the Delians, the house of the Naxians, Artemision, Pythion, the ancient theatre, the temple of Isis, the private houses, the five marble lion-guards, are some of the masterpieces of the ancient world of the Aegean Sea that you will see when visiting Delos. In the nine halls of the Archaeological Museum of the island, you will discover one of the best sculptural collections in the world, including ancient sculptures, mosaics, vessels, inscriptions and statues. At the same time, especially this year, the famous British sculptor Antony Gormley has scattered 29 human sculpture installations on the granite rock of the Aegean, creating a contemporary art exhibition titled “Sight�, which traces the human presence and course of history on the island (lasting until 31 October). In Delos, you will gain many experiences and on the way back you will know exactly what this famous, dazzling and translucent light of the Cyclades is all about.
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to
KATIKIES RESORTS & CLUB is a multi-award winning luxury hotel group comprising of seven idyllic retreats, each offering exclusivity and privacy on two of the most coveted Greek islands –Santorini and Mykonos. For more than 30 years, Katikies Resorts have been considered pioneers in Greece’s luxury hospitality industry with all seven properties redefining the meaning of luxury accommodation in Greece, thereby making their nomination for Best Greek Hotel Brand particularly appropriate. The properties are characterized by their classic Cycladic architecture: whitewashed buildings set into steep cliff sides with sweeping vistas of the Aegean Sea below. Effortlessly chic and romantic, the properties are a haven for honeymooners, couples seeking peace and tranquility or families looking to spend quality time together. All properties are members of The Leading Hotels of the World apart from Sun Rocks Boutique which is a Relais & Châteaux hotel.
Santorini, Mykonos | Tel. +30 22860 72380 | www.katikies.com
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nspiring deep emotions of enchantment and fascination, Katikies luxury hotel in Oia Santorini is renowned for its unparalleled services, warm atmosphere and sense of romance uniquely combined in an exceptional setting and natural environment, inviting its guests to experience moments of pure luxury at one of the best hotels in Oia Santorini.
The awe inspiring view to the Caldera and the azure sea from all luxury suites, the sublime Santorini sunsets and perfectly manicured pink bougainvilleas provide the magniďŹ cent backdrop for this perennially gleaming, glistening white luxury hotel that spills down the cliffs of the magical Caldera. A luxury hotel rightfully regarded as one of the best hotels in Oia Santorini for its bespoke services and high-end accommodation options.
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uilt in the old Venetian neighborhood of Fira town in Santorini, on the grounds of a former Monastery, the architecture of Katikies Garden luxury hotel pays homage to the tradition of the historic building. Hotel guests surrender their senses in an alluring ambience with ourishing alleys, fountains, and blooming gardens.
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irini boutique hotel in Santorini, Oia promises to bedazzle your sens-
the World, the luxurious resort Kirini Santorini is considered to be one of the best
es with its exquisite setting and miraculous views to the Caldera. In
places to stay in Oia, Santorini as it combines the Cycladic architectural tradition
this fairytale hotel, whether you are taken by the majestic views or the
with luxurious living and the serene scenery of the Aegean. From the luxurious
luxurious service answering all your wishes, your visit will be a unique
“A.SPA�, among the best on the island, to the unique gourmet experiences, it is easy
experience to cherish for life. Proud member of the Leading Hotels of
to see why Kirini Santorini is by far one of the best places to stay in Oia, Santorini.
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cknowledged as a hip and eminent contemporary design hotel and resort, Chromata Santorini, one of the finest Imerovigli hotels redefines the concept of style and elegance in Santorini. Chromata, Santorini’s best place to stay by far, signifies all that the discerning traveler can expect from one of the top Imerovilgi, Santorini hotels. Perched on
the edge of the Caldera, the most emblematic picture postcard image both in the Cyclades and in all of Greece, Chromata Santorini effortlessly blends a sense of glamour, heritage, luxury, modern amenities, and highly personalized services, and is therefore favored as one of the most celebrated Santorini 5-star hotels.
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pon arriving at Sun Rocks Boutique Hotel, look behind you from where you have entered, and you will realize that carved into the sides of the volcanic cliff, all around you, is a Santorini romantic hideaway, quite like no other. Undoubtedly, it is the view that holds center stage at this elegant couples only hotel, one of the most ex-
ceptional Firostefani, Santorini hotels. Sumptuous aesthetics abound, reecting its luxurious, low-key, in-house lifestyle where complete peace and tranquility are artfully combined with the comfort, convenience, and seduction that greet guests in every room of Sun Rocks, one of the ďŹ nest Santorini romantic hotels standing quiet in its magical surroundings. With its meticulous attention to detail, stunning views and greatness, this exclusive hotel has become a key destination, time and time again, standing out as one of the best Santorini romantic hotels for weddings and honeymoons.
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ituated on the most westerly point of the island, Villa Katikies springs
to the sea. Emanating luxurious privacy and elegance, Villa Katikies, one of the
like a genuine jewel amidst some of the ďŹ nest villas in Oia, Santorini.
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World, villa Katikies is regarded as one of the most favorable villas in
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uzzled in a gorgeous setting, above the sun kissed beach of Agios Ioannis in Mykonos, Katikies Mykonos, member of the Leading Hotels of the World, captures the essence of chic seaside living only a breath away from the shimmering sea. Built amphitheatrically with direct sea view, this exceptional boutique hotel, member of the Ka-
tikies Group of hotels, evokes the island’s Cycladic spirit and cosmopolitan charm in its elegant environs while ensuring a holiday beyond comparison. Surrender to the temptations of reďŹ nement at one of the most enchanting Mykonos luxury hotels and take in the splendid panoramic vistas to the emerald Aegean. Find your peace and quiet in a top 5-star hotel in Mykonos and unwind in a haven of bliss and tranquility.
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