Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine
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welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine
Ice Age. Welcome to the
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welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine
Your home in Torres del Paine National Park...
Hotel Lago Grey.
(This is the actual view from the deck)
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30 fine rooms - Bar, Lounge & Restaurant Excursions & Navigation to the Glaciers
Book Today! (56.61) 712100
www.turismolagogrey.com
Don’t miss it when youwww.turismolagogrey.com are up there in Torres del Paine... Bateries - Memory cards - Music and video Players - Cameras - Bags - Cd’s - Dvd’s - Video tapes
We accept credit cards
Zona Franca Mall, Store 137 in Punta Arenas (Beside the mechanical stairs) Telephone (56.61) 710105
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Editorial Some things never change. Go back ten or twenty years in your life. Travel with your mind and you will notice that even though you have probably changed in time, there are many things you keep doing time and time again just because you like it. I don’t know what it is in your case, but in my case, photography is one of them. I am lucky to live near a lot of wonders and one thing that calls to my attention is that although I go time after time to the same
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places, they look and feel different. This land has been a source of delight to me for years. Every sunrise and sunset is different, the wind blows in a different direction and the grass dances to it.
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There is one big difference between you and me... that is you have traveled thousand of miles to get here. I sincerely hope you have a perfect journey across a land of aborigins, sailors and discoverers. A land untouched by men, but by God’s. You are officially Welcome to Patagonia.
Issue Number 1
Cover image: Lago Grey, Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008
We were born and raised in Patagonia. Our goal is to let you know insteresting stuff about Patagonia and go with you as you travel and discover it. We are totally neutral on political issues and we are not subject to any regional authority. Director: Marcelo Kunstmann Gardella Publisher: Welcome Patagonia® Graphic Design, Maps & Illustrations: Manuel Aguila for Agencia K Contact & Sales: magazine@welcomepatagonia.com Thanks to: María Gómez from the Regional Museum, CERE from Universidad de Magallanes. The opinions within Welcome Patagonia, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. Welcome Patagonia® Magazine Postal: Jorge Montt 735 Punta Arenas, Chile Telephone: +56 61 613940 Copyright 2008 Marcelo Kunstmann. Welcome Patagonia is a registered trademark. ©2008. All rights reserved. The use of the name of the brand or any content of this paper is forbidden by law. This issue printed in La Prensa Austral, Punta Arenas, Chile.
www.welcomepatagonia.com/magazine
Index Punta Arenas
Puerto Natales
An Encounter with the Past “Braun Menendez Palace”, Regional Museum in Punta Arenas.
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Punta Arenas Map
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Punta Arenas Capital of the Magallanes Region. 254 kms to Puerto Natales.
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What to do?
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The Magellanic Penguin. A funny guy in a tux that goes away but is more loyal than any other one.
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Torres del Paine
Puerto Natales Map
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Puerto Natales. The door to Torres del Paine National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier.
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What to do?
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Milodon’s Cave. Between myth and reality.
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Welcome to Ice Age Join us in a wonderful trip across Lago Grey to the Glacier Wall
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Camping in the Park
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Torres del Paine Map
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Torres del Paine Trekking Map
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First Class Excursion
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Welcome to the Ice Age! Join us on a wonderful trip across Lago Grey to the Glacier Wall. Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann
Amazing! Beautiful! September 19th. Torres del Paine National Park.
We woke up early, had a delicious breakfast at the Hotel and got ready to catch the bus from the hotel to the beginning of our adventure. This is the first part, when we cross the bridge over Rio Grey and walk among the forest to get to the shores of Lago Grey. This is a perfect moment to make new friends and share impressions on the surroundings. A zodiac boat is now ready to take us from the dock to M/N Grey II where the captain is waiting for us to begin the navigation. A brief talk on safety and we are on!
About the Lake Lago Grey is 17 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide, with a maximum depth of 550 meters near the glacier. The temperature varies between 2 and 5 degrees Celcius. Its “milky” color is produced by the sediment material in suspension as a consequence of the erosion produced by the glacier over the rocky ground. The lake comes from the glacier. It is poor in nutrients and very rich in sediments so the sunshine does not penetrate. This and the low tempretaure of the water make life imposible. The ices floating near the shore of the lake come from the front of the glacier. The travel from the front of the wall towards the beach takes between 3 and 7 days. It takes 3 to 12 months to completely melt. The deep blue color that can be observed is an effect produced by the decomposition and refraction of light. Light itself decomposes in a continuous color spectrum of red, green and blue. Water moleculs absorb red waves 6 time more than the others producing a strong blue. The intensity of the color varies depending the state of the ice. If it is more compacted and free of oxygen bubbles the blue will be more intense.
Back on the Tour Already aboard and thirsty of adventure, we went outside to enjoy the live view from the deck. The Paine Grande Mountain is getting closer. We are lucky today, the water is so calm that it looks like a mirror and there is a lot of ice floating near us. We can see the glacier and its walls at the end of our sight as they highlight the whole scene. Mr. Arturo, the captain, kindly offered me a very informative talk on the surroundings. After an hour of sailing we reached the front of the glacier. The deep blue color is unbelievable. The captain slowed down the engine so we could appreciate the magic of it all. The crew offered us a Pisco Sour or a Whisky chilled with ice of the very glacier! Now going back to the Hotel the captain was going among the ices so we could appreciate the different shades of blue which are really impressive. I realized that the deepest blue is when you are watching at 90º degrees from the sun location. When we were with the sun in our back ther was no color, but when in at one side it was really blue. We were lucky. The sky was completely clear and a lot of ices were floating all around. I hope you have the same fortune! Good luck and enjoy your trip on Lago Grey.
Departures Everyday
Price: One Way CLP 32.000, Round Trip CLP 40.000 8 AM: Round trip. Back at 11AM. Check in at Hotel Lago Grey front desk at 7AM. 12 PM: One way to Regufio Grey. Only transportation. Check in at 11AM. 1.30 PM: Return trip from Refugio Grey to Hotel Lago Grey (this trip CLP 35.000) 3.30 PM: Round trip. Back at 6.30PM. Check in at Hotel front desk at 2PM. Check for avalaibility calling +56.61 410220 or 410172 For booking email to: navegacion@turismolagogrey.com
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About the Glacier Grey Glacier is 27 meters long and 4 kilometers wide. Its front has an average height of 25 meters. It is part of the Campo de Hielo Patag贸nico Sur which is the third biggest water reserve of the planet after Antarctica and Greenland. The Campo de Hielo Sur or South Ice Field in English, is 350 kilometers long with a minimum width of 8 kilometers and a maximum of 65 meters. A total of 13.500 square kilometers that gathers 48 big glaciers and more than 100 small ones. 18% of the Ice is in Argentina and the rest in Chile. Grey Glacier is a calving type glacier. It is in its reverse period. Today it is composed by 2 fronts showing 3 rocky risings. The biggest one is called Nunatak which began appearing 100 years ago.
The Retraction The retract ratio of the glacier is of 4 meters per year in the last century, but in the last 12 years the glacier has lost almost 1kilometre in the oriental side and almost 2 in the occidental side. It is said that the accelerated retreatment of the glacier is produced by the global warming. The glaciers coming from the Campo de Hielo Patag贸nico Sur are near their fusion point which means that any increase in temperature will affect the glaciers directly.
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Patagonia Aborigins Selknam were not real, and their goal was to unmask them. At the time they realized that these “spirits” were actually human beings, they were then told a story of the creation of the World about the Sun and Moon. There was also, a story told (actually part of the same) that at one time women used these spirits to control men: they would disguise themselves as spirits and threaten the men while they did not know that these were not spirits at all. Once they found out, it was done vice-versa - women did not know that the spirits weren’t real, while males found out at the initiation age. There were related ceremonies where males showed their “strength” in front of women by fighting spirits in some theatrical fights.
Heritage
The Selknams, also known as the Onas, lived on the Tierra del Fuego Island. They were nomads and survived hunting. Even though the weather was really hard and cold they dressed sparingly. The Selknam spoke a Chon language. The Selknam avoided contact with Western colonizers.
Initiation ceremonies The Hain was probably one of the most fascinating parts of their culture. Young males were called to a dark hut to be attacked by “spirits” - actually people disguised as such. Children were taught to fear these spirits and were threatened by them in case they misbehaved. These young men did not know these spirits
Photographs of Selknam people taken by missionaries are available in the Puerto Williams museum. There are also a few books on the subject, including tales, collected by the missions, and a dictionary of the Selknam language. Due to early contact by missionaries, it was possible to gather much more information about the Selknam people than about other peoples of the region. According to the Argentinian census of 2001, there were 391 Ona aborigins living in Tierra del Fuego Island and 114 in other parts of Argentina. References Gusinde, Martin: Nordwind—Südwind. Mythen und Märchen der Feuerlandindianer. E. Röth, Kassel, 1966.
A very comfortable Hotel in Puerto Natales...
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Manuel Bulnes 655, Puerto Natales - Chile - For booking Call: (56.61) 411158 www.hotelflorencedixie.cl
Lady Florence Dixie HOTEL
Attended by owners we assure you a pleasant stay. Roomy dependences, near to all main services, private parking, private bathroom with tub, hair dryer, Cable TV, safety box, baggage storage, internet available, laundry service, breakfast included.
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An Encounter with the Past. “Braun Menendez Palace”, Regional Museum in Punta Arenas. Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann been preserved in its original state, which allows visitors to appreciate the finest European craftsmanship available at the end of the 19th century. Since then, the Government has worked to turn the Palace into a more open source of culture, presenting art and photographic exhibitions and classical music performances. The Museum also has a room which tells about the ranching and maritime history of the region. Tours are conducted in Spanish.
A Masterwork of Design Braun Menéndez Palace is an obligated attraction to visit in Punta Arenas. The history of this palace-museum began in 1903 when Mauricio Braun requested its construction to the french architect Antoine Beaulier. The construction itself took 3 years and the wood and other materials used to build the palace were brought from Europe. By 1900, all materials, furniture and sculptures had already been bought and stored in a warehouse in Punta Arenas. French architects planned the neoclassical exteriors, and craftsmen were brought from Europe to sculpt marble fireplaces and hand-paint walls to resemble marble and leather. The impressive ceilings were made with plaster, molded and hand-painted with different motives depending on the room. The interior fixtures and furniture were also imported from Europe, including gold and crystal chandeliers, tapestries
from Belgium, Arabian tables inset with abalone, stained-glass cupolas, English and French furniture, hand-carved desks, and more. Beautiful sculptures made from marble from Carrara, Italy, made by the famous sculptor Pietro Barzanti.
The solid construction created its own world inside the palace specially in days of strong gusts of wind, rain and cold. The Family Life The Palace was the former residence of Mauricio Braun and Josefina Menéndez, a marriage that united the two largest
fortunes in Magellanes. They married at the age of 24 and 19 respectively and lived here from 1906 until 1920. With the opening of the Panamá Canal the traffic of ships through the Strait of Magellan decreased, being that enough reason for them to move to Buenos Aires, Argentina. The family owned several “estancias” or farms in what before the Treat of 1881 were in chilean territory, now Argentinian territory.
For some visitors, the knowledge that these families exterminated native Indians to a large extent and suppressed labour movements in the region on their quest for wealth may temper the appreciation for the grandeur of these palaces. Anyways, the magnificence of this masterpiece is a must if you are visiting Patagonia. Office Hours
Monday to Saturday: 10:30AM to 5PM Sunday & holidays: 10:30AM to 2PM Admission Price: Adults: CLP 1.000
Mauricio and Josefina raised ten children, seven sons and three daugthers. They loved doing activities in the music room. Children had to learn theatrical plays and dress accordingly to represent plays for family and friends with the piano in the background. The music room and a living room were together and the separation between them is like a theater scenario perfect for those activities. Mauricio Braun died in 1953 and Josefina in 1955. The house always had active personnel and was visited periodically by the family on holidays, summer season and on business until 1982. They used to use the entrance located at the back so most people did not notice activity in the Palace. Today The Palace was declared a National Monument in 1974 and the Braun family donated the building and the original furniture to the chilean State in 1982. thus becoming the Regional Museum of Magallanes. This home has
Music Room where children used to perform theatrical plays.
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Buses Itinerary & Travel Times KEOKEN HOSTAL
Chile | Argentina Buses
Punta Arenas | Puerto Natales from Punta Arenas
from Puerto Natales
07:00 07:15 07:30 08:00 08:30 09:00 09:15 10:00 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 16:30 17:00 18:00 18:30 19:00 19:30 20:00
07:00 07:15 07:30 08:00 08:30 09:00 09:15 10:00 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 16:30 17:00 18:00 18:30 19:00 19:30 20:00
Buses Fernández Buses Pacheco Bus Sur
Trip 1
Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07:00 14:30 09:45 16:30 10:45 17:30 11:45 18:00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
Buses Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Trip 1
Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07:30 14:00 09:45 16:30 10:45 17:30 11:45 18:00
Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Trip 1
Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
09:45 16:30 10:45 17:30 11:45 18:00
Trip 1
Trip 2
13:00
18:00
13:30
19:00
14:30
19:45
17:00
22:00
411971
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
Trip 1
Trip 2
13:00
18:15
13:45
19:00
15:00
19:45
17:00
22:00
410242
Buses Pacheco Bus Terminal Rio Gallegos
Tue - Thu Fri - Sat - Sun 12:00
Mon, Wed, Sat. 11:00
Ushuaia to Punta Arenas
Tue, Thu, Sun. 09:00
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Mon, Wed, Fri 07:00
Tecni Austral 613420 L. Navarro 975
Tue, Thu, Sat 08:30
Tecni Austral Roca 157
Mon. Wed, Fri 05:30
Tue, Thu, Sun. 09:00
Bed and Breakfast
Señoret 267, Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 56.61 413670 info@keokenpatagonia.com
Ushuaia to Puerto Natales Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 +56.61
El Calafate to Puerto Natales
Cootra 412785 Baquedano 456
Daily 07:30
Cootra Bus Terminal
Daily 08:30
Zaajh 412260 Arturo Prat 236
Tue, Thu & Sat. 08:00
Zaajh Bus Terminal
Mon, Fri & Sun. 08:00
El Calafate to Rio Gallegos
Rio Gallegos to El Calafate
Sportsman 492680 Bus Terminal
Daily 12:30
Sportsman 442595 Rancho Grande
Daily 20:00
Taqsa 491843 Bus Terminal
Daily 03:00 12:00 & 14:30
Taqsa 423130 Rancho Grande
Daily 12:00 14:00 & 20:30
Interlagos 491273 Bus Terminal
Daily 04.00
Interlagos 442080 Terminal
Daily 13:30
El Calafate to Chaltén
415069
Clean
- Comfortabl e - Family Owned
Balmaceda 254 - Puerto Natales www.hostalalamopatagonico.com
OUTDOORS IN PATAGONIA
Chaltén to El Calafate
Chaltén Travel 491833 Bus Terminal
Daily 08:00, 13:30 & 18:30
Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande
Daily 07:30 13.00 & 18:00
CalTur 491842 Bus Terminal
Daily 07:30 13:00 & 18:30
CalTur Av. San Martín 520
Daily 08:00 13:00 & 18:30
Taqsa 491843 Bus Terminal
Daily 17:30
Taqsa 423130 Rancho Grande
Daily 07:30
For more details about terms and conditions, please contact the bus companies directly. Bories 655, Punta Arenas www.mountainhouse.cl
Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
Trip 2
07:30 14:00
413672
Rio Gallegos to Punta Arenas
Buses Ghisoni Bus Terminal Rio Gallegos HOSTAL
Buses Pacheco 242174 Colón 900
Puerto Natales to El Calafate
Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
Trip 2
Tue, Fri, Sun. 11:30
Puerto Natales to Ushuaia
Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
Trip 2
Buses Pacheco 242174 Colón 900
Buses Pacheco 414513 Baquedano 500
Torres del Paine National Park Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
Mon - Wed Thru - Fri - Sat 11:00
Punta Arenas to Ushuaia
See location in city maps. Punta Arenas page 22. Puerto Natales page 26.
Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - Puma Tours
KEOKEN
Punta Arenas to Rio Gallegos Buses Ghisoni 613420 L. Navarro 975
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
Trip 1
Trip 2
13:00
18:30
13:30
19:00
14:30
17:30
17:00
19:30
Downtown Hostel
A typical warm family Lodge House in Magallages - Comfort & Cheap Prices
Travel Times Approximate Travel times from Puerto Natales
(allow time for border crossing and tour connections within the Park) El Calafate
5 hrs.
TDP Laguna Amarga
2 hrs. 30 min
Punta Arenas
3 hrs.
TDP Pudeto
3 hrs. 15 min
Ushuaia
15 hrs.
TDP Administration
3 hrs. 45 min
Approximate Travel times from Puerto Natales
(allow time for border crossing and tour connections within the Park) Puerto Natales
3 hrs.
Rio Gallegos
6 hrs.
Rio Grande
8 hrs.
Ushuaia
13 hrs.
Only Just 150 meters from Bus Station! Telephones: (56+61) 222219 (56+61) 221009 Mobile: (56) 09 9 122 9555 (56) 09 7 8977807 Armando Sanhueza 555, Punta Arenas, Chile. www.downtownhostel.cl
welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine
A Matter of Taste.
Patagonia Gastronomy: Enjoy! Bon appètit! Guten Appetit! ]vbaytb The day was great, a lot of adventure. You probably saw the Cuernos del Paine, guanacos, bandurrias, lakes and other exciting attractions. You took a shower, freshened up, and now... What? How does a Roasted Lamb Barbacue sound with some fresh potatoes cooked with parsley, a lettuce salad and great white wine? Satisfy your curiosity. Bon Appetitte!
In Punta Arenas. Sotito’s is a traditional restaurant whose name comes to our mind in the first place. José Soto, the owner, has been preparing typical regional dishes including king crab, seafood and meat for many years. The place has been redesigned and offers room for both smokers and non smokers. O’higgins 1134, Telephone 243565. Los Navegantes Restaurant is located inside the hotel with the same name. I personally enjoy the fresh smoked salmon as an appetizer and the Sunday specialty: The Cazuela, a typical chilean dish. Great sandwiches at the bar also. José Menéndez 647, Telephone 617700. La Marmita. This cozy restaurant is family owned and features a very particular ambience. The colors, furniture and decoration are captiving. And the food... very good. I recommend the Pulmai, a kind of Curanto, a typical dish of the Island of Chiloé that includes smoked meat, clamps and “chapaleles” a delicious tradicional OUR C O Sgreat P I Stastes specialty made from flour that with “pebre”. Plaza Sampaio 678, Telephone 222056.
いただきます
Buon appetito!
In Puerto Natales. La Parrilla de Don Jorge. If you are looking out for a good barbacue this may be the right place for you. A typical chilean place where you can see the grill and the cook as he prepares your dish. Lamb and traditional meat specialty. Excellent quality and taste. Bories 430, Telephone 410999. Última Esperanza. A traditional one in Puerto Natales. “Lomo a lo pobre” (poor’s loin which is not really poorly), “Caldillos” (seafood soups) and chilean salads are typical here. Let you be the judge. Bories 430, Telephone 410999. Are you looking for the yummy stuff? Well, this one’s for you. Mocho’s. Great sandwiches, pizzas and Hot Dogs. Try the Italian Dog. Prices between 2 and 4 dollars. Ladrilleros 328, Telephone 415854.
Top Experience Place: Afrigonia. Dish: Salmon in Coconut Sauce and Tsavo Potatoes. Dessert: Kilimanjaro. The salmon was perfectly fresh and the coconut sauce was as soft as a kiss. I could even smell the freshness of the potatoes as if I were in a backyard sowing them. The mix of flavours was perfectly matched. The Kilimanjaro is a warm cake with a soft chocolate consistence. It goes with white chocolate and strawberry sauce. It melts in your mouth with a perfect delicacy.
AB - LAMB - T YPICAL CHILEAN - FINE G C RNatales. I N Puerto O D - K343, E A F OEberhard - SAddress: CHILEAN WINES Telephone: +56.61 412232
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PISCO SOUR - SEA FOOD - KING CRAB - LAMB - T YPICAL CHILEAN - FINE CHILEAN WINES
The most traditional Restaurant in Punta Arenas.
José Menéndez 647, Punta Arenas, Chile - For Booking Call +56-61 617700 www.hotellosnavegantes.com
Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008
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The Pleasure ofChocolate Homemade Romantic lore commonly identifies chocolate as an aphrodisiac. The reputed aphrodisiac qualities of chocolate are most often associated with the simple sensual pleasure of its consumption. Additionally, chocolate’s sweet and fatty nature may stimulate the hypothalamus, inducing pleasureable sensations as well as affecting the levels of serotonin. While serotonin has a pleasurable effect, in high concentrations it can be converted to melatonin which in large amounts reduces sexual drive. Finally, chocolate has been shown
to contain unsaturated N-acylethanolamines which might activate cannabinoid receptors or increase endocannabinoid levels resulting in heightened sensitivity and euphoria. Although there is no firm proof that chocolate is indeed an aphrodisiac, a gift of chocolate is a familiar courtship ritual. You are invited to enjoy the flavour of home made chocolates. Our recommendation: Norweisser Chocolates. 666 Carrera Street, Telephone 223900, Punta Arenas.
Pisco sour Have you heard about it? Even though Pisco Sour is produced in high demand and bottled by beverage companies and sold in supermarkets, there is nothing like a fresh Pisco Sour prepared specially for you. It´s perfect with a salted snack. Here goes how to...
PatagoniaHandicraft Souvenirs... a tangible way to prove you have been somewhere and to take home the memories of your trip. The traditional magellanic souvenir is the little penguin that can be found almost everywhere. Lamb wool products are very interesting articles and they can be found in a variety of applications: jackets, hats, rest shoes, gloves, sweaters, carpets and so on. Beautiful and distinguished jewlery is made from Lapislazuli, a blue color world known stone.
Pisco Sour Recipe
Photographs, postcards and posters and books are always a perfect one to take and frame at home. Maps, figures, clothing, wines, beer, copper, diplomas and many other articles made by the hand of craftsmen of the end of the world. Where in Punta Arenas... • Chile Típico, Ignacio Carrera Pinto 1015 • RAMA, Waldo Seguel 660 Where in Puerto Natales... • Etherh Aike Handicraft town • Ñandú Artesanías, Eberhard 301
For 6 people.
1 bottle of 35 degrees Pisco. 1 tea cup of natural lemon juice. 1 tea cup of Gum Syrup. 7 drops of Angostura bitter. 1 egg white. Mix in a blender with ice and enjoy! This recipe courtesy of Santino Bar Lounge. (see ad in page 22)
Almonds - Coconut - Mint - Hazelnut - Raisins - Orange - Milk - Strawberry - Peanut - White - Fig - Truffle - Pistachio - Banana - Mazapan - Nougat - Almonds
Best Homemade Chocolate Carrera 663, Punta Arenas, Chile - Telephone +56.61 223900
See location on page 22
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BIENVENIDO BIENVENIDOAAASU SUREFUGIO REFUGIOEN ENLA LAPATAGONIA PATAGONIA BIENVENIDO SU REFUGIO EN LA PATAGONIA
Reservas: Reservas: Tel Tel (56-61) (56-61) 715 715 001 001 | |reservas@hotelesaustralis.com | reservas@hotelesaustralis.com Reservas: Tel (56-61) 715 001 reservas@hotelesaustralis.com www.hotelesaustralis.com www.hotelesaustralis.com www.hotelesaustralis.com
Need assistance?... we know all about Patagonia. More than 15 Years providing Services & Assistance to Travelers from around the world. Hotel Lago Grey
Glaciers
EXCELENT HOTEL IN TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK.
VISIT AMAZING GLACIERS IN CHILE & ARGENTINA.
INTERACT WITH LOCAL FAUNA.
FAMOUS TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK & OTHERS.
Hotel MartĂn Gusinde
Estancia el Palenque
Restaurants
Transportation
WE KNOW ALL HOTELS IN PATAGONIA.
VISIT A TYPICAL MAGELLANIC FARM AND ENJOY ROASTED LAMB.
KING CRAB, SEA FOOD, LAMB AND WINES. WE SUGGEST...
WE OFFER OUR OWN FLEET OF VEHICLES.
For more information call
(56.61) 712100
Attractions
National Parks
EUROPE? THE CARIBEAN? EASTERN ISLAND? INSIDE CHILE? FLIGHT TICKETS TO ANYWHERE.
Address: Lautaro Navarro 1077, Punta Arenas - email: info@turismolagogrey.com
www.turismolagogrey.com
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WINE
Guide
Cabernet Sauvignon Chile is a wine country thanks to a gentle climate, a fecund soil and a high quality strain. Aconcacgua valley produces a closed, tight structure that needs some time in the bottle to develop. Maipo Valley, a pervasive black currant fruit and an earthy, dusty note. Colchagua, rich fruit flavors that can be perceived as sweet due to the ripeness of the fruit... Scent & Flavour: Cabernet Sauvignon smells like black pepper, berries, chocolate, tobacco and cinnamon. The body and the tannins are really felt in the mouth and its acidity is higher if compared to Merlot or Carmenere. Gastronomy: If you have a Cabernet Sauvignon of good body and woody to the mouthfeel, choose red meat and do not hesitate to season it but be careful not to overdo it. Game meat is very good for it: deer, quail and pheasant.
The King of the classic strains, an essential member of the Burdeos club. The most important strain in Chile and responsible of the prestige gained internationally.
Strength is very important and a fundamental. A flavour should never nullify one another. Keeping that in mind will help a lot to enjoy the most of it. Cabernet Sauvignon is a very robust strain and needs gastronomy to put up to its carachter. Agebility: The capacity of agebility of the great reds is one of its favorable points. As tannic wines age, the tannins
begin to decompose and the wine mellows and improves with age. What are Tannins? Tannins are astringent, bitter plant polyphenols that either bind and precipitate or shrink proteins. The astringency from the tannins is what causes the dry and puckery feeling in the mouth following the consumption of red wine or an unripened fruit. Tannins in wine can come from many sources and the tactile properties differ depending on the source. Tannins in grape skins and seeds tend to be more noticeable in red wines, which are fermented while in contact with the skins and seeds to extract the colour from the skins. Modern winemakers take great care to minimize undesirable tannins from seeds by crushing grapes gently when extracting their juice, to avoid crushing the seeds. Tannins in wine have been described, particularly by novice drinkers, as having the effect of making wine difficult to drink compared to a wine with a lower level of tannins. Tannins can be described as leaving a dry and puckered feeling with a “furriness” in the mouth that can be compared to a stewed tea, which is also very tannic. This effect is particularly profound when drinking tannic wines without the benefit of food. Recommendations: Tierra del Fuego Gran Reserva. Cousiño Macul, Antiguas Reservas Casa Silva, Doña Dominga, Reserva Where to buy: Supermarkets. Líder, must take a cab. Cofrima & Abu-Gosch, check location on page 22.
References: www.wikipedia.com, www.planetavino.com, www.vinoschilenos.cl, www.elmundodelvino.com
Cree que su negocio debería estar aquí? Conversemos. 613940.
email: magazine@welcomepatagonia.com
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torres delpaine National Park
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patagonia Fauna in
Cóndor
(Vultur gryphus)
The Andean condor is the largest bird of prey. They roost and nest in the mountains. Their normal food is carrion, dead, dying or sometimes newborn animals. Its head is bare of feathers. Both parents incubate and care for the young. A condor reaches sexual maturity only after six years of age. Its wingspan exceed 12 feet (4 meters) and weigh up to 25 lbs. (11 kg)
Puma Flamingo
(Phoenicopterus chilensis) 110 to 130 cms tall. It lays a single chalky white egg on a mud mound, between May and August; both parents brood the young for a period of up to 6 years when they reach sexual maturity. Their life expectancy of 40 years is one of the longest in birds.
Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) Stands between 107 and 122 cms. and lives in herds composed of females, their young and a dominant male. When they feel threatened, guanacos alert the herd to flee with a high-pitched bleating call. They can run with a speed of 56 km per hour, often over steep and rocky terrain. Excellent swimmers.
Pumas (Felis concolor patagonica) live solitarily in the mountainous areas and feed mainly on rodents and occasionally on birds and guanacos. They have also been reported to prey on livestock. Pumas avoid humans and incidents of them killing people are extremely rare. Puma can be as long as nine feet (2.8 meters) and weigh 170 lbs (80 kg).
Huemul (Hippocamelus bisulus) Ñandú (Rhea pennata) 3 feet tall with large wings being able to run particularly well. It can reach speeds of 60 km/hour. The sharp claws on the toes are effective weapons. Quite sociable out of the breeding season. It lives in groups of from 5 to 30 birds.
Chile’s national symbol. It is classified as an endangered species. The male body can reach a length of 6 feet (2 meters), with a short tail. It can weigh up to 250 lbs (120 kg), though the females are generally smaller.
Grey Fox
(Lycalopex griseus) The South American Gray Fox is a small canid, weighing 2.5–4 kg (5–9 pounds), and measuring 43–70 cm. Its diet consists mainly of rodents, birds, and rabbits. It breeds in late austral fall, around March. After a gestation period of 2 months, 2-4 kits are born in a den.
Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus) 61 to 76 cms tall and between 2.7 kg and 6.5 kg of weight. They feed in the water, preying on cuttlefish, sardines, squid, krill, and other crustaceans. They mate with the same partner year after year. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.
Camping in the Park.
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Your home outdoors. Cheap and easy to clean. Camping in Torres del Paine National Park is a great experience. There are several places to stay and we assure you will enjoy it wherever you decide to stay. It is important to know in advance that camping inside Torres del Paine National Park is allowed at designated places only for preservation and safety reasons.
for groups. Hot showers, flush toilets, sinks and waste baskets, fireplace with grill, tables and benches. Camping Laguna Azul is on the shore of Laguna Azul and offers 20 sites with a capacity for up to 6 people, electricity, toilets with drinkable water, hot shower, table, fireplace, waste basket and wood. Boats and stoves rental.
Camping grounds generally offer good value and normally have flush toilets, hot showers and a common shelter for rainy weather. Charges are either per person or per site (from CLP3.500) depending on the camping ground infraestructure and services.
Camping along the circuit.
In the flat area of the Park, camping grounds are located in three subareas: Lago Pehoé, Río Serrano and Laguna Azul. Camping Lago Pehoé (Lat. 51° 6’43”S Long. 51° 6’43”S) offers 49 sites, with flush toilet, table with a windstopper, fireplace, wood, hot showers, store, electricity 24 hours, water pipes, laundry sinks and telephone. Also a “quincho”, a restaurant with view to the Cuernos. Camping Río Serrano offers 30 sites for up to 6 people and bigger sites
If you go trekking up to the big cicuit or the W you have got about 10 pitstops to rest everyday. The circuit is normally done counterclockwise. See in a full map on page 18. Here we list all places to stay independently of the services they offer. Camping Las Torres is the beginning of the big circuit. Offers camping sites, wood and toilet rooms with hot shower. After the first day walking the next step is Serón with camping sites and basic services. he next day, Dickson Refugio will be your home with a great view of the lake and the glacier in the background. The fourth day you will get to Camp Los Perros.The next day, you will be at Camp El Paso where you can enjoy
a great view to the Campo de Hielo Sur. No services. 3 hours down Camp Guardas is a place to camp but no services but has great views. 1 hour more is Refugio Grey, a great place to stay very close to the Glacier Grey. Camping sites, toilets, hot shower and a Refugio with food services and a store for campers. Excursions to walk on the ice of the glacier start here. Next day, Refugio Lago Pehoé, located in vortex of the W offers 70 tent sites, and 3 group sites, dining-room tents and kitchen tents. Also, flush toilets, hot showers and sinks for laundry. When going to Valle del Francés, Camping Italiano and Británico there are two options to stay. Just camping no services. Now going back to Las Torres to finish the circuit, Albergue Los Cuernos has a place to camp, a Refugio and a post. Conaf should offer deeper information at the entrance of the park. For further information contact: www.campingpehoe.com www.verticepatagonia.cl www.fantasticosur.com
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GLACIAR DICK
torres delpaine National Park GLACIAR PINGO
LAGO DICKSON
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LAGO PINGO
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LAGO GREY
GLACIAR ZAPATA
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GLACIAR TYNDALL
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LAGUNA VERDE
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Hotel Lago Grey Camping Rio Serrano Hostería las Torres Laguna Amarga Port Laguna Verde Administration Camping Pehoe Condor Lookout Point Salto Chico Lago Sarmiento Port Salto Grande Serrano Town Camping Serón Lago Pingo Trekking Glacier Grey Ice Trekking Hotel Rio Serrano Ferrier Lookout Point
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LAGO SARMIENTO
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Torres del Paine Trekking Map LAGO DICKSON
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LAGO PAINE
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LAGUNA AZUL
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Hostería las Torres Camping Serón Refugio Dickson Camp Los Perros Camp El Paso Refugio Grey Refugio Paine Grande Camp Italiano Valle del Fancés 10 Base of Las Torres 11 Valle del Silencio
8 LAGO GREY
7 LAGO NORDENSKJÖLD
LAGO PEHOE
Hostería las Torres / Camping Serón
Camping Serón / Refugio Dickson
Refugio Dickson / Camping los Perros 540
Camping los Perros / Camp. Paso
Paso John Gardner
1.300
Paso Tronco Valle Encantado
150
4hrs
150
140
540
4½ hrs
8,7 km.
Escalas de Cuerdas 50
50
Punta Bariloche (2.600 mts.)
12 km.
4hrs
Camp. Italiano / Hostería las Torres
11 km.
200
150
2½ hrs
7,6 km.
Main Peak (3.050 mts.) Trono Blanco (2.197 mts.)
Cabeza de Indio (2.230 mts.)
220
Cuesta
7 km.
Hostería las Torres / Base la Torres Refugio Chileno
Refugio los Cuernos -50
3½ Hrs
10 km.
540
5½ hrs
Refugio Paine Grande / Camp. Italiano
Laguna los Palos Río Olguín Quebrada los Vientos
Terreno pesado
700
140
8,5 km.
Refugio Grey / Refugio Paine Grande
Camp. Los Guardas 540 540 Escalas de Cuerdas
4hrs
Camp. Coirón
6hrs
Camp. Paso / Refugio Grey
Snow Limits.
Vega Grande
150
8,9 km.
Hostería las Torres / Valle del Silencio
1.240
150
La Cuesta 50
7hrs 16,5 km.
Central Central Torre Cuerno (2.800 mts.) (2.600 mts.) South North Torre Almirante Nieto Cuerno (2.850 mts.) Mountain (2.400 mts.) (2.640 mts.) East Cuerno (2.200 mts.)
4hrs
9,5 km.
Acarreo Camp. Torres 870
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First Class Excursion
Travel Information Magazine
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by
New transportation Service to Torres del Paine. Daily. Comfortable. a panoramic view toward the lake. We had the pleasure of admiring an inspiring view to Glacier Grey, the Paine Grande Mountain Range and Lago del Toro from the Lago Grey Lookout point. Amazing!
Jeff: Puerto Natales, Chile. 07:30 AM and the transport was at our hotel waiting for Megan and me to begin our aventure to Torres del Paine National Park. Megan: The day seemed to be very clear. We were told that the weather here is unpredictable so we better didn´t talk about it anymore and hoped it to be allright for us. Well, I saw beautiful colours all around on our way along the shore of Última Esperanza Sound to Cueva del Milodón, just 24 kilometers to the north. This Natural Monument is formed by three caverns and a big rock named Silla del Diablo which means Devil’s Chair. The biggest cavern is
about 30 meters tall, 80 meters wide and 200 meters deep. It is obviously interesting in many areas but the abundance of animal life, specially birds, the local flora and the surroundings called my attention. Jeff: We were 8 people in a van with a capacity for 12, so there was enough room. The air was fresh all the time, no strange odors and the temperature was fine, no dust, just perfect, I really enjoyed the trip. The guide told us this is the new road to Torres del Paine National Park. Now it takes less time to get there. A soft trip and full of attractions like Laguna Sofía, Lago Porteño and Lago Toro where we enjoyed
Your choice makes us different...
Megan: A few miles before getting inside the park there is an area called Serrano because of the river that runs through it. There are hotels, places to fish near a bridge, horseback rides and a perfect view to the Cuernos del Paine and Grey Glacier. After passing the entrance to the Park we headed to the left to Lago Grey area. The day was fine so we walked by the shore of the lake toward a lookout point where we appreciated a wide panoramic picture. After that we moved to Lago Pehoé area. We were offered to have a Snack (mineral water, juice, a brownie, a chocolate and a cereal bar) which was good, but Jeff and I wanted to have lunch with that magnificient view to the mountian range. So we made a stop at Camping Pehoé to have lunch at the Resturant. Jeff: After lunch we went on to Salto Grande waterfall which climbed on my
top five list. First, we saw it from the road but had the chance to go very close. There is a marked safe way to go around and take good photographs. I noted how the Mountain Range looks different as we change the angle (we moved from west to east during the tour). Lago Nordenskjold and its Lookout point is another great spot for frames. Near Laguna Amarga area we enjoyed visiting Cascada Paine waterfall and watched a lot of Guanacos and Bandurrias in the surroundings. Megan: It was a great day! We could not see the Cuernos all the time because of the weather, but wind helped to clear the sky for us at the right time. I hardly believe that this could be so good on a traditional big bus. The price was right. (about USD70) The vehicles were clean, comfortable and the guide and driver were very kind. Totally satisfied. A perfect way to discover Torres del Paine National Park in one day. More Information & where to book: Kipaventour Patagonie Telephone: +56 61 413615 e-mail: info@kipaventourpatagonie.com www.kipaventourpatagonie.com
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20 welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine
. Your home in P g n i k r a p e t a v i uerto Natales. Restaurant and bar. Pr For booking call Telephone. 56.61 712100
Carlos Bories 278, Puerto Natales, Chile
info@turismolagogrey.com
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Are you in Patagonia? Then you can not miss it...
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Departures everyday at 9.00, 14.00 and 18.00 We suggest to Booking advance
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Punta Arenas City
Capital of the Magallanes Region. 254 kms to Puerto Natales. 8
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Population: 110.000. Faces the Magellan Strait which can be seen for the first time from your airplane just before the plane lands at Punta Arenas’ airport. Punta Arenas is a 3- hour- bus to Puerto Natales then a 2hour- bus to Torres del Paine National Park.
painted metal roofs that have characterised the city for many years, although since about 1970 the availability of other colours in protective finishes for the characteristic metal roofing has resulted in greater varieties.
Tourism cruises, fishing fleets, scientific investigators, merchandise transportation sail through these southern waters throuhout the year. It is also the main door to the Antarctic continent.
winds (up to 130 km/hour). Winds tend to be strongest during the summer when city officials put up ropes in the downtown area to assist with unique currents of wind created by the buildings.
History & Activity
Location & Geography
Climate
The seasonal temperature in Punta Arenas is greatly moderated by its proximity to the ocean, with average lows in July near −1 °C (30.2 °F) and highs in January of 14 °C (57 °F). This doesn’t mean that it is known for stable constant temperatures, only small variability with season. Punta Arenas is also quite dry, with only 43 millimetres (1.7 in) of rain in its wettest month of May. Among Chileans the city is also known for its strong
Main Attractions
The 17th century explorer John Byron is sometimes given credit for the naming. But it was not until much later than any sort of city was settled by the Chilean government (1843). The name Punta Arenas grew out of the Spanish term “Punta Arenosa”, which was a literal translation of the English name ‘Sandy Point’. Punta Arenas has also been called “the city of the red roofs” for the red-
The cordillera de los Andes offers a scenery divided by big creeks crossed by channels that form interior seas, like gulfs Almirante Montt and Isla Riesco. From Torres del Paine, the Andes turn their north south direction to end in the Beagle Channel with an east-west direction. Magellan Strait is 560 long and keeps a high relevance in navigation and maritime communications.
Among its main attractions there are museums, the monument to the shepherd, the cemetery; regional history and resources centers; the town theatre; the main square, magnificent buildings, duty free, the Strait of Magellan, Cerro de la Cruz, penguin colonies, Forest Reservations, Fuerte Bulnes, trekking circuits in native woods areas, variety of birds, rural tourism, lighthouses and more. Punta Arenas Main Square.
BAR - LOUNGE - RESTAURANT 657 Colón Av., Punta Arenas, Phone 56.61 710882 www.santino.cl
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What to do? Cerro de la Cruz Standing in Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross) is a great attraction. You can see the Strait of Magellan and the Mountain Range in the background. If the day is fine the clouds and the blue sky seem painted by an artist. The roofs are painted in strong colors which
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makes the view very colourful. How to get there? Locate point 8 in the left page map.If you are in the Main Saquare go two streets to the right to Colón Avenue and go up until Señoret street and the a few steps to the lookout point. Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008
Punta Arenas City and The Strait of Magellan.
Maggiorino Borgatello Museum Juan Almonacid ©2008
Estancia Lolita Patagonia and elegant swans. Beautiful black faced ibis and light vultures already adapted to the cold weather at 2 metres distance. There is a close interaction with animals like Guanaco, Darwin Rhea, Patagonia Armadillo, Austral Parakeet, Austral Cavy, Night Heron, Kelp Geese, Grey Fox, Caracara, Chimango Hawk, Grey Headed Geese and more.
Juan Almonacid ©2008
If you are interested about the history of the aborigins, we recommend you to visit this museum. This museum’s history began in 1893 with the priest Borgatello and his colaborator Angel Bonove. They began to organize the etnographic collection gathered by the Salesian Missionaries and the natural histories collection of Mr. Benove. The Museum offers a valuable specialized library with photographic and audiovisual material about the ethnic population and history among other themes.
More than 200 guanacos running and playing on a typical farm in Patagonia. You can appreciatte more than 30 species of fauna in their natural environment. Puma, ñandú, the largest bird in size in
Nowadays, the building has 4 levels with exhibitions about history, religion, fauna, flora, industry and trade from the region of Magallanes.
San Isidro is the southernmost lighthouse in continental America, in Brunswick Peninsula. This place is located 90 kilometeres to the south of Punta Arenas City (Lat 53°47’3.93”S Long 70°59’2.54”O) not too far from Fuerte Bulnes to the south. If you are an adventurer, walking by the seaside of the Strait of Magellan is a great experience. We drove until Rio San Pedro, a few miles south from Fuerte Bulnes and walked for about 2.5 hours to the Lighthouse, enjoyed
Office Hours: Tuesday to sunday 10AM to 12:30AM & 3PM to 6PM Telephone: +56.61 221001 www.museomaggiorinoborgatello.cl
Location: Km 42 North. Length: 1 hour and 30 minute walk or 30 minutes in a vehicle. Open Everyday from 10AM to 6PM Telephone: +56.61 233057 www.faunapatagonica.com
San Isidro Lighthouse
the place, had our meal and came back. It is important to check tide hours to cross the river easily. You can ask a travel agency for a toured program. This beautiful place was the point of reference for ships sailing across the Strait of Magellan some centuries ago. There are also ruins of an old ship. A new lodging option has been set here. Visit www.hosteriafarosanisidro.com for further information.
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The Magellanic Penguin.
A funny guy in a tux that goes away but is more loyal than any other one.
Isla Magdalena More than 100.000 each year.
Imagine... you are away from home on a trip for several months. Once you came back home, how would you find your mate if all looked the same and there were lots of them? You may want to be remembered by your voice...
With a height of between 60 to 75 centimeters and a weight bewteen 3 and 6 kilograms, Magellanic Penguins are a real pleasure to watch. Males are larger than the females. Adults have black backs and white stomachs. Their head is black and have a broad white border running from behind the eye, around the black ear-coverts and chin, and joining on the throat. Chicks and juveniles are grey-blue on their backs, with a more faded greyblue color on their chest. In the wild, Magellanic Penguins can live up to 25 years. Like the other species of penguins, the Magellanic Penguin has very rigid wings used to ‘fly’ under water.
Range & Habitat. Magellanic penguins, (Spheniscus magellanicus) are found around the Falkland Islands Isla Magdalena is a small island in the Strait of Magellan, Chile. It is located in Magallanes Region northeast of the regional capital Punta Arenas. In 1982 it was declared national monument as part of Los Pingüinos Natural Monument. The penguin colony on the island hosts over 60,000 breeding pairs of the Magellanic Penguin. The island is currently uninhabited.
Otway Sound
Located behind Punta Arenas and at only 40 minutes Otway Sound is a beautiful place where you can ride a horse by the seaside in the search for penguins. (See ad on page 31)
and the coasts of Argentina and Chile. They are an abundant species with an estimated 100,000 breeding pairs in the Falklands alone. Larger populations inhabit Argentina and Chile. Breeding colonies are found from the Gulf of San Matías in Argentina, south to Tierra del Fuego, and north along the Pacific coast of Chile up to Puerto Montt. In the region of Magallanes they can be found on Magdalena Island and in Otway Sound. Magellanic penguins nest in burrows in more sparsely populated colonies than other species and prefer offshore islands with tall grass and vegetation where they can find protection from birds of prey. Although the Atlantic coast of South America has less vegetation, it is still home to a large breeding colony.
Breeding. Magellanic penguins, only attempt to year. The male returns to the colony to claim its usual returning later. Breeding tends as in previous seasons and depending on the nests are built in burrows eggs are laid within a takes approx. 40 days. in the nest until from as little as depending on of the 2nd
breed once every burrow with the female to be with the same partner begins in September-October, longitude of the colony. Simple or small pits and 2 similar-sized period of 3-4 days. Incubation After hatching, chicks remain fledging, which can take 9 to as long as 17 weeks food abundance. Mortality chick is higher and the first chick tends to be favoured byn the parents, specially when food is limited.
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Marcelo Kunstmann Š2008
Isla Magdalena. More than 120.000 penguins.
Magellanic Penguins mate with the same partner year after year. Males claim the burrow from the previous year and wait to reconnect with their female partners. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.
Ecstatic Display. Magellanic Penguins are considered relatively aggressive and can inflict a strong bite if touched. Although penguins can be approached, they are wary of human presence. Birds may cock their heads from side to side as a warning signal. Cessation of normal activity may also be indicative of disturbance in particular with nesting birds. Magellanic penguins are relatively noisy and make a donkey-like braying noise. Magellanic Penguins are often seen performing the “ecstatic display�. This can either be part of the mating ritual or can merely be indicative of territory ownership. Birds performing this display stretch their neck and point their beaks skywards whilst spreading their wings and making a braying noise. The display is often performed repetitively over periods of up to an hour or more.
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Puerto Natales City
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The door to Torres del Paine National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier.
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agencies to advise on attractions. There are almost 100 lodging chances from bunk houses to fine hotels.
uerto Natales is a small town alongside Ultima Esperanza sound with a population of 19.000 inhabitants... who live peacefully all year long. It is a blessed place to develop commercial activities as tourism, fishing and farming. The city has a good tourist infrastructure, coffee shops, restaurants, a casino, a picturesque shopping, a history museum, and travel
History The Province where the city is located was baptized under the name Última Esperanza (Last Hope) by the sailor Juan Ladrilleros, who was looking for the Strait of Magellan in the year 1557. It was his last hope to find the Strait. In 1830 a new expedition sailed through the fjords and channels of Última Esperanza. It
was the British expedition of the frigate HMS Beagle. The names of some the expeditioners (Robert FitzRoy, William Skyring and James Kirke) is the origin of several place-names in the area. Puerto Natales comes from the Latin term natalis, which means birth. Founded in 1911 and colonized by people from Chiloe Island, and by German and English colonists who, with their particular persistence, transformed the Patagonia into one of the most important cattle producers and
exporters, until the end of the seventies.
Location & Geography Near 254 kilometers to the NW of Punta Arenas, the city is located at the bank of Channel Señoret inlet, which mixes its waters at the south with Almirante Montt gulf, a big interior sea and at the north with Ultima Esperanza fjord. Puerto Natales is 256 km. from Rio Gallegos (NE) (Argentina), 362 km. from Calafate (Argentina) (N), and 48 km. from Rio Turbio (Argentina) (N).
Miriam Parra Urban Handicraft Design
Bulnes 622, Bulnes 555, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile Telephone (+56,61) 410931 - 415860
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What to do? Balmaceda & Serrano Glaciers
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Love & Beer by Marcelo Kunstmann
Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008
Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers are located in Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, near Torres del Paine National Park. This is Serrano glacier and its lake. This glacier can be reached from Puerto Natales taking a regular navigation that usually takes the whole day. After navigating for a few hours the vessel
stops at Puerto Toro pier and then passengers walk by the shore on the left side of the picture through a wonderful native forest and along the coastline of Lake Serrano reaching very close to the glacier wall. Check for the excursion at any Travel Agency or at your lodging place.
Riding a bike in Patagonia. Going along the road to the north or south is great with all that mountains in the background. There is plenty of loca fauna to enjoy along Ultima Esperanza Sound. The air is perfect to purify yourself inside and re gain energy. Just try a bike ride to wherever you may want to go. It is safe. Everybody can do. No age limit. Grab your camera and don’t forget to send us a good picture of you, the bike and the scenery to magazine@welcomepatagonia.com Did you think that Torres del Paine National Park and the glaciers were the only thing to go to? We hope not. That would be a big mistake! Puerto Natales is a very beautiful city and the surroundings are spectacular.
Where to rent a bike: Sendero Aventura, Tomas Rogers 179. Office Hours: Everyday. 10AM to 1PM and 3PM to 11PM. 1 hour: CLP 2.000, 5 hours: CLP 5.000
Puerto Bories Historical Museum. Puerto Bories Historical Museum.
colonization began. With more than 100 years of age this place has become an attraction. Having a stroll by Puerto Bories is like going back in a time machine. An enormous lonely chimney and high block wall that survived the pass of time gives us some idea of what it all was like. A victorian archictechture, english machinery, workshops and other equipment tells about a time of gold. Gigantic warehouses for sheep shearing and storing the wool. Just 5 kilometers from the city there is an architechtural witness of the colonization of Chilean Patagonia. Puerto Bories was an active village before Puerto Natales was founded and one of the places where
Office Hours: Everyday 9AM to 1PM and from 3PM to 8PM. Admission price: CLP 3.500 How to get there: 1 hour walk or a Cab for CLP 2.000 average.
Hotel
Capitán Eberhard Comfortable Rooms Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner with the best view in our Restaurant. Located in the Seaside Avenue. Pedro Montt 58, Puerto Natales Phone (56+61) 411208 - email: heberhard@terra.cl
A quiet night life... Making new friends with other travelers or with local people can be entertaining and is safe in Puerto Natales. Pubs offer a relaxed ambience, the typical Pisco Sour and international drinks as well. Although businesses accept credit cards it is a good idea to bring some vcash. Walking along the seaside and wait for the sunset is an excellent option. The sun sets facing the city from the sea and is perfect for the more romantic ones and for those who enjoy photography. Undoubtedly, you will remember Puerto Natales as one of the place you have been in...
Daniel and Mariana, are a young couple who changed their life from the big city to a small town in Patagonia, Puerto Natales. Lovers of the purity of these faraway lands and of good beer (specially Daniel who told us he proudly has spent time traveling and tasting beer in different latituds) they fullfilled their dream of producing their own bier at home. In time, they thought how good it would be to produce for others and so, to offer a distinctive beer in Puerto Natales. That is how Cerveza Baguales began. In an associative enterpreunership with Chad, a friend and partner from the USA they have acquired the knowledge to create, using natural ingredients and no preservants, two recipes of rugged bier with the spirit of a “Patagon”. I had the pleasure to drink a couple of glasses directly for the barrels and hope to repeat the experience soon. Moving to a small town has brought certain benefits: a more relaxed life in a city with eternal and romantic sunsets and a beautiful child to rise and to watch playing in Patagonia fields.
The Best Hot Chocolate in Town ! Coffee, Brownies, Cakes & Home Made Chocolate
Visit us in Puerto Natales!
Just 2 blocks to the Main Square Just 2 blocks to the Coast.
Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales - Phone +56.61 415285 - www.patagoniadulce.cl
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Milodón’s Cave Between myth and reality.
In 1896 the scientific world was fascinated by the discovery of skin, bones and other remains of an extinct animal in this cave: The Milodon (Mylodon Darwini). Scientists originally believed the remains to be fresh, indicating that the animal still existed. But later tests proved that the remains were thousands of years old. The milodon did supposedly extinct by the end of the Pleistocene era. The Cueva del Milodón is a very known attraction located just 24 kilometers north of Puerto Natales on the way to Torres del Paine National Park. This natural monument is composed by three caves and a rock formation known as the Silla del Diablo (Devil’s Seat). The main cave is 150 meters above sea level, measures 30 meters high, 80 meters long and 200 meters deep. Aside from the cave and its historical and scientific importance, the region has lovely landscapes. This is because this area is a transition between the steppe and the forest. Some local trees and plants include the ñirre, the calafate and the romerillo. The Silla del Diablo is just a kilometer before the cave. This huge rock formation looks like an enormous chair. When the milodon remains were discovered in this area, a folk tale was born that this was the milodon’s seat. Over time, the devil took the place of the milodon in the rock formation’s name. The Corporación Nacional Forestal (CONAF, the National Forest Corporation), which oversees the area, has set up picnic areas; a popular place to go to for the inhabitants of Puerto Natales. Before the cave there is an office and small museum with regarding information. There is also a Coffee Shop & Restaurant with a great view to the mountain range and a souvenir store.
How to get there? If you are traveling by car just go north from Puerto Natales by the paved road. You will see a sign that indicates detour to the left by the unpaved road. Just a few miles and you are there. The same road takes to Torres del Paine National Park by Serrano entrance and should be driven carefully. If you are by yourself, travel Agencies offer the tour in Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas as a regular excursion.
Trekking Paths Path to the Big Cave: Educative trail with an extensión of 800 meters. It takes just 30 minutes. The path has stations with information with features and answers regarding the place. This can be done by anybody without restriction of age.
MILODÓN The Milodón was a herbivorous mammal with the aspect of a big bear with the head of a camel. It belonged to the family of the Armadillo, the ant-bear and the sloth and the calculations say that his height was twice a human being’s one. The causes of its exctintion are not clear: it might have been hunted by the first landers of the extreme south of the continent or because of a huge climate change that made temperature rise and change the vegetation. A third factor might have been the vulcanic activity. Perhaps, the mix of these factors made this animal disappear.
Small Cave Path: This is 35 meters long. The ground is made of sandstone and cement. It has no explicative signs.
The Making of... Arnaldo Alarcón Fabres, former regional director of Tourism in Magallanes in the late seventies told us interesting details about the Milodon in the cave. The original idea to set a Milodon in the entrance of the cave belongs to architech and writer Alvaro Barros who in the seventies projected his idea and contacted the National Museum of Natural History. Harold Krusell, a talented artist, was the man who in 1978 developed the idea at his workshop in Santigo de Chile and made a 1:1 model from fiber-resin material. The Milodon was exhibited at the University of Magellan in Punta Arenas for a week which caused much interest among its inhabitants. After that it was sent to Puerto Natales and set in the cave.
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Aldo Merello ©2008
The Magellan’s Wind. A free and clean natural resource of energy. by CERE-UMAG, Center for Energy Studies, University of Magellan.
There are only a few days a year when wind is not blowing over the steppe of Magallanes. And if some days it seems that there is a little breeze flowing slow at ground level, there is always a lot of wind energy at higher altitudes. Processed statistics of recorded data at meteorological stations shows annual average wind speeds of 9 and 10 meter per second, at a standard 10 meter height. The driving force for wind is a differential of pressure in the air caused by density changes due to solar radiation which pushes it from high to lower centers. It is also accelerated by the rotation of the planet and at Magallanes latitude the westerlies winds blow as frontal systems created at the open South Pacific Ocean. Indeed, nearly three quarters of the time in a year, the wind comes from the NorthWest SouthWest. The wind is caught by special profiled blades installed in rotors at 50 or more meters high, transforming the push of the air into a slow rotational movement of no more than 30 revolutions per minute. Then, a mechanical gear device and/or an electronic system inside the nacelle on the top of the windmill, converts the energy of the air into electricity. A windmill installed in Magallanes can produce the equivalent of more than 4.000 hours per year at its nominal power rate, thus representing more than a 50% of Plant Factor, doubling standard european parks.
Although abundant and almost permanent, the wind speed is unstable and therefore limited to be used as a constant source of electricity. It must be injected to a bigger, firm, electrical grid, generally fueled by fossils. That grid will only receive about 30% to 40% of the total wild wind electricity in order to maintain the quality of generated electricity. So, what should be done to take real advantage of the enormous wind energy potential of Magallanes? Although the space is enough to install hundreds without disturbing the landscape, the rather small electrical grids of the cities in the region can accept the electricity converted by a few number of machines only. Then, how to save the electricity in a way that can be used at will, whenever necessary? Not in chemical batteries of course, because of the too low capacity of these devices. Good technical solutions are under fast development through mechanical and electrochemical means. It is possible to store energy in modern flywheels, made with composite material running on high efficiency support axes, almost frictionless. The rotational mass that is accelerated by an electrical motor when absorbing energy at high winds, releases it when necessary to mantain the speed of the electricity generator, when wind speed decreases. This dynamic solution has been applied in commercial applications as back-up low consumption energy systems, eliminating the need of conventional batteries.
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Another more innovative solution consists in storing the wind electricity into a physical product by manufacturing it from a cheap raw material, water for example. The electrolysis of water requires electrical energy to decompose water into hydrogen and oxygen, that can be stored as gas by its compression. The hydrogen behaves as natural gas, and contains good energy levels and is less risky to handle than gasoline, and does not produce carbon emissions during its combustion; the oxygen is also a valuable byproduct. Although the chemically induced electrolytic process is well known since the 19th century, the advent of modern permeable membranes to ions is opening great spaces for a new, efficient, chemically neutral processes to manufacture hydrogen, which can be put in operation by clean electricity from renewable resources. A well known automobile company is has improved internal combustion motors to operate with hydrogen as fuel, and promotes a national system of stations at highways for hydrogen recharge; other companies develop Fuel Cells to directly generate electricity by recombining hydrogen and air over an active surface. These solutions are environmentally friendly because water is re-created by the combustion of hydrogen and there is only conversion, rather than consumption of energy in the whole process, energy that may be permanently available in form of wind in Magallanes region. Can Patagonia export its wind energy as cryogenic liquid or compressed hydrogen for new clean combustion technologies? Of course. Besides wind, Magallanes has important primary energy resources: natural gas, some oil and huge reserves of coal. There are notorious tidal marine currents in the Strait of Magellan and in many fjords and channels. The conversion technologies finally define the cost of the electricity and other fuels used for heating and cooking, and at present the fossil fuels show more convenient economic figures when evaluation is made with an average term vision. The real necessity to reduce carbon emissions from fossil fuel combustion puts strong pressure to increase the use of renewable energy resources, in order to firmly recover the natural balance of the atmosphere composition. The almost always present wind of Magellan is a valuable, real factor towards this urgent goal: we should be harvesting it now to produce clean electricity, and continue searching on how to store the enormous, endless wind energy into a product, to use it on demand as clean, natural, renewable fuel.
Coffee Shop | Restaurant | Books & Maps | Postcards & Stamps | Souvenirs | Leather | Wool Garments
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f a r C d n Ha
In front of
Cueva del Milodón Cueva del Milodón, Mobile phone: 09 7 462 9227 | Eberhard 301, Puerto Natales, Telephone: 414382 | Cerro Castillo, Telephone: 413063
30 welcomepatagonia Crossword Puzzle Travel Information Magazine
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Just for Fun... 2
Cool, I like your piercing!!
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What`s up in Welcome Patagonia Magazine?
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This thing stucked again!
Go boys! Help daddy to hit Ctrl + Alt + Del.
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I Don`t Have a Clue!
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Answer Key
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1. Biggest bird that runs. 2. It can fly so high. 4. Protected mammal in the Park. 6. 2 of them. The Grande and the Chico. 7. Capital city of Magallanes Region. 8. A funny dude in a tuxedo. 11. Delicious fish. 12. A grand variety in Chile. 14. Typical Patagonia bush with a red flower. 16. Delicious meat when roasted.
Across
3. You can take a lot. 5. Can take you to Torres del Paine National Park. 9. Your home outdoors. 10. A river and a glacier. 13. A famous traveler and scientist. 15. A big guy in the entrance of a cave. 17. There is one at the end of every day. 18. 3 rounded peaks.
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