Welcome Magazine Issue 2 by Marcelo Kunstmann

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Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine

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Adventure.

Hotel RĂo Serrano The beginning of

Luxury, Relax & Fun in Patagonia.

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Editorial Some things never change. Go back ten or twenty years in your life. Travel with your mind and you will notice that even though you have probably changed in time, there are many things you keep doing time and time again just because you like it. I don’t know what it is in your case, but in my case, photography is one of them. I am lucky to live near a lot of wonders and one thing that calls to my attention is that although I go time after time to the same places, they look and feel different. This land has been a source of delight

to me for years. Every sunrise and sunset is different, the wind blows in a different direction and the grass dances to it.

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There is one big difference between you and me... that is you have traveled thousand of miles to get here. I sincerely hope you have a perfect journey across a land of aborigins, sailors and discoverers. A land untouched by men, but by God’s. You are officially Welcome to Patagonia.

Issue Number 2

We were born and raised in Patagonia. Our goal is to let you know insteresting stuff about Patagonia and go with you as you travel and discover it. We are totally neutral on political issues and we are not subject to any regional authority. Director: Marcelo Kunstmann Gardella Publisher: Welcome Patagonia® Graphic Design, Maps & Illustrations: Manuel Aguila Yañez for Agencia K Contact & Sales: magazine@welcomepatagonia.com Thanks to: María Gómez from the Regional Museum, CERE from Universidad de Magallanes and Mateo Martinic Berios, Historian. The opinions within Welcome Patagonia, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. Welcome Patagonia® Magazine Postal: Jorge Montt 735, Punta Arenas, Chile Telephone: +56 61 613940 Copyright 2009 Marcelo Kunstmann. Welcome Patagonia is a registered trademark. ©2009. All rights reserved. The use of the name of the brand or any content of this paper is forbidden by law. This issue printed in “El Pingüino”, Punta Arenas, Chile. Read the magazine online at:

www.welcomepatagonia.com/magazine

Index Punta Arenas

Puerto Natales

An Encounter with the Past 7 “Braun Menendez Palace”, Regional Museum in Punta Arenas.

Puerto Natales Map

Puerto Natales The door to Torres del Paine National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier.

What to do? Milodon’s Cave Between myth and reality.

Punta Arenas Main Square European style, design and architechture still alive.

Punta Arenas Map

Punta Arenas Capital of the Magallanes Region. 254 kms to Puerto Natales.

What to do?

The Magellanic Penguin A funny guy in a tux that goes away but is more loyal than any other one.

Torres del Paine Luxury, Relax & Fun Hotel Rio Serrano offers fine rooms, comfort, space; everything you need to indulge yourself.

Camping Pehoe A perfect place to stay in Torres del Paine National Park.

Torres del Paine Map

Trekking Map

The Valley of Ascencio More than a valley. The story of a runaway bandit in Torres del Paine National Park.

Paine Grande Mountain Lodge 20 The base camp for trekkers. The beginning of the “W” Excursion.

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Luxury, Relax & Fun.

Hotel Rio Serrano offers fine rooms, comfort, space; everything you need to indulge yourself. Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann

It was 9 o`clock when the van came to pick me up at my hotel in Puerto Natales to take me to Hotel Río Serrano where I should spend a relaxing holiday week. Now we are ready to go. You are invited to see what happened….

The beginning The trip to the Serrano area was fine. It was a little cloudy but we enjoyed watching beautiful landscapes. Rainbows are very common here with the changing weather. We headed north along the shore of Lago Porteño and then along Lago del Toro where we had our first great view. Just a few minutes we enjoyed a wide view of Cuernos del Paine and the whole mountain range. We were really close to the hotel. We checked in and the adventure began.

Arriving at the Hotel... I was welcomed in a large lobby. My attention was inmediately drawn to the view I had through the big windows; a perfect view

of the Paine Mountain Range and all its peaks. The connection with nature took me a blink of an eye. I am already thinking about what excursion to take first. I have got my room keycard. Let’s take a look… The Hotel Río Serrano offers almost 100 finely decorated rooms. I had room 232 which is located at the end of the corridor of the north wing and offered me a great view of the Cuernos del Paine. As soon as I walked into the room I had a feeling of what was coming next : relax and pleasure. The view of the mountains and the river was magical, as if taken from a fairy tale. The room has over 30 square metres and is extremely comfortable and spacious. The toilet room has a big mirror and elegant marble furniture. The desk was perfect for my job and the beds were really soft and comfortable. I relaxed for a minute, but I sprang out of bed to begin my adventure. The first thing to do was to walk around the hotel. Let’s go ….

The look and feel

I started with the first level. I found very spacious, long and simply decorated rooms with big windows. You can see the whole mountain range from almost wherever you may be. Everything looks and feels so peaceful that it invites you to sit, rest or schedule your activities for the next day. Nothing could be better than sitting there with a good book or listening to your favourite music, a sour drink in your hand with the awesome background view. The south wing of the hotel has a lounge bar with tables and cable T.V. - great for having a snack or a sandwich, and two more rooms for relaxing. I asked the barman for a cold local beer and sat on a sofa to plan my adventure experience in the Serrano area. I let myself drop in on the Outdoor Department where the guides helped me to choose and book my excursions for the next days.

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Life Outdoors

Trekking to Torres del Paine, Horseback rides, Full Day Tours and much more activities can be enjoyed. The Outdoor Department will advise you according to your desire.

Horseback to Lago Toro Viewpoint

The “gaucho” was waiting for me. We went to his place to get the horses ready. Then we began to ascend the mountain in search of the viewpoint. Once on the first stop I enjoyed the view of the whole Serrano area and the Paine mountain range. My horse’s name was “Gigante”. (“Giant”)

We had a mild ride up among trees, bushes and crossed small streams. Local flora like the typical “Notro” can be seen here.

Sunrise from the deck.

The Restaurant The restaurant has a dining room with a seating capacity of 200 passengers. A buffet breakfast – with a variety of delicious preparations is served everyday starting at 7 o`clock. At lunch time there is a daily menu and a special with two main courses plus over 60 first quality Chilean wines. At dinner time there is a great buffet which includes a number of dishes and desserts. The view from the restaurant offers you peace and rest.

After an hour or so we reached the top where an amazing view of Lago Toro can be seen. That was more than a prize for me. Then we headed back home for a cup of hot chocolate.

The Surroundings Right in front of the hotel there is a mini golf course where you can practise your shots, learn a few if you wish or take a walk in the surroundings which is always a pleasure. Just a few metres away I found a small arm of a river where local fauna abound. I caught sight of a few foals near their parents while I was enjoying some fresh air. The priviliged location of the hotel in front of the Torres del Paine surrounded by a wonderful natural environment provides a perfect environmental balance of design, quality and comfort. The Outdoor Department has specialized guides who suggest one what activities to do in accordance with one’s likes. The area has many attractive sites to visit.

Serrano Winding River Bed

I loved this one. Going downstream Río Serrano is a pretty safe adventure. It was very beautiful all the way. I really took a lot of pictures that can not be put here, but let me tell you that the sights are amazing.

The Rooms 66 rooms have a view of the National Park’s peaks and offer comfortable space (32m2) for an everyday relax and pleasure. The rooms have closets and safety boxes. It is quite likely that you won’t want to watch T.V., but if you do you can do it at the bar whilst enjoying some beverage.

Services Hotel Rio Serrano has four conference rooms to hold meetings or workshops. They are fully equipped for those purposes. Wíreless internet connection is available almost everywhere in the hotel in order to be able to connect with family, friends, work or just for reading the news. This week has been perfect. I felt comfortable all the time, relaxed, connected with nature. Serrano area gathers plenty of attractions and being here and experience all this has been great. For further information visit www.hotelrioserrano.cl and ask for a program for yourself. Maybe you will tell us your experience next time...

Gigantic glaciers as the Tyndall and Geike, the Serrano and the Balmaceda Mountain are spectacular. We also had lunch at the farm of an lonesome man and shared experiences with our tourist companions.

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these “spirits” were actually human beings, they were then told a story of the creation of the World about the Sun and Moon. There was also, a story told (actually part of the same) that at one time women used these spirits to control men: they would disguise themselves as spirits and threaten the men while they did not know that these were not spirits at all. Once they found out, it was done vice-versa - women did not know that the spirits weren’t real, while males found out at the initiation age. There were related ceremonies where males showed their “strength” in front of women by fighting spirits in some theatrical fights.

Heritage

The Selknams, also known as the Onas, lived on the Tierra del Fuego Island. They were nomads and survived hunting. Even though the weather was really hard and cold they dressed sparingly. The Selknam spoke a Chon language. The Selknam avoided contact with Western colonizers.

Initiation ceremonies The Hain was probably one of the most fascinating parts of their culture. Young males were called to a dark hut to be attacked by “spirits” - actually people disguised as such. Children were taught to fear these spirits and were threatened by them in case they misbehaved. These young men did not know these spirits were not real, and their goal was to unmask them. At the time they realized that

Photographs of Selknam people taken by missionaries are available in the Puerto Williams museum. There are also a few books on the subject, including tales, collected by the missions, and a dictionary of the Selknam language. Due to early contact by missionaries, it was possible to gather much more information about the Selknam people than about other peoples of the region. According to the Argentinian census of 2001, there were 391 Ona aborigins living in Tierra del Fuego Island and 114 in other parts of Argentina. References Gusinde, Martin: Nordwind—Südwind. Mythen und Märchen der Feuerlandindianer. E. Röth, Kassel, 1966.

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An Encounter with the Past.

“Braun Menendez Palace”, Regional Museum in Punta Arenas. Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann

then, the Government has worked to turn the Palace into a more open source of culture, presenting art and photographic exhibitions and classical music performances. The Museum also has a room which tells about the ranching and maritime history of the region. Tours are conducted in Spanish.

A Masterwork of Design

Braun Menéndez Palace is an obligated attraction to visit in Punta Arenas. The history of this palace-museum began in 1903 when Mauricio Braun requested its construction to the french architect Antoine Beaulier. The construction itself took 3 years and the wood and other materials used to build the palace were brought from Europe. By 1900, all materials, furniture and sculptures had already been bought and stored in a warehouse in Punta Arenas. French architects planned the neoclassical exteriors, and craftsmen were brought from Europe to sculpt marble fireplaces and hand-paint walls to resemble marble and leather. The impressive ceilings were made with plaster, molded and hand-painted with different motives depending on the room. The interior fixtures and furniture were also imported from Europe, including gold and crystal chandeliers, tapestries from Belgium, Arabian tables inset with abalone, stained-glass

cupolas, English and French furniture, hand-carved desks, and more. Beautiful sculptures made from marble from Carrara, Italy, made by the famous sculptor Pietro Barzanti.

The solid construction created its own world inside the palace specially in days of strong gusts of wind, rain and cold.

The Family Life

The Palace was the former residence of Mauricio Braun and Josefina Menéndez, a marriage that united the two largest fortunes in Magellanes. They married at the age of 24 and 19 respectively and lived here from 1906 until 1920. With the opening of the Panamá Canal

the traffic of ships through the Strait of Magellan decreased, being that enough reason for them to move to Buenos Aires, Argentina. The family owned several “estancias” or farms in what before the Treat of 1881 were in chilean territory, now Argentinian territory. Mauricio and Josefina raised ten children, seven sons and three daugthers. They loved doing activities in the music room. Children had to learn theatrical plays and dress accordingly to represent plays for family and friends with the piano in the background. The music room and a living room were together and the separation between them is like a theater scenario perfect for those activities.

For some visitors, the knowledge that these families exterminated native Indians to a large extent and suppressed labour movements in the region on their quest for wealth may temper the appreciation for the grandeur of these palaces. Anyways, the magnificence of this masterpiece is a must if you are visiting Patagonia. Office Hours Monday to Saturday: 10:30AM to 5PM Sunday & holidays: 10:30AM to 2PM Admission Price: Adults: CLP 1.000 Address: 949 Magallanes Street Check location in map on page 22.

Mauricio Braun died in 1953 and Josefina in 1955. The house always had active personnel and was visited periodically by the family on holidays, summer season and on business until 1982. They used to use the entrance located at the back so most people did not notice activity in the Palace.

Today

The Palace was declared a National Monument in 1974 and the Braun family donated the building and the original furniture to the chilean State in 1982. thus becoming the Regional Museum of Magallanes. This home has been preserved in its original state, which allows visitors to appreciate the finest European craftsmanship available at the end of the 19th century. Since

Music Room where children used to perform theatrical plays.

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Buses Itinerary & Travel Times Chile | Argentina Buses

Punta Arenas | Puerto Natales from Punta Arenas

from Puerto Natales

07:00 07:15 07:30 08:00 08:30 09:00 09:15 10:00 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 16:30 17:00 18:00 18:30 19:00 19:30 20:00

Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Trip 1

Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

Trip 2

07:00 14:30 09:45 16:30 10:45 17:30 11:45 18:00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

Buses Ghisoni Bus Terminal Rio Gallegos

Tue - Thu Fri - Sat - Sun 12:00

Buses Pacheco 242174 Colón 900

Tue, Fri, Sun. 11:30

Buses Pacheco Bus Terminal Rio Gallegos

Mon, Wed, Sat. 11:00

Tue, Thu, Sun. 09:00

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Mon, Wed, Fri 07:00

Tecni Austral 613420 L. Navarro 975

Tue, Thu, Sat 08:30

Tecni Austral Roca 157

Mon. Wed, Fri 05:30

Puerto Natales to Ushuaia Tue, Thu, Sun. 09:00

Puerto Natales to El Calafate

Trip 1

Trip 2

13:00

18:00

13:30

19:00

14:30

19:45

17:00

22:00

Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Trip 1

Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07:30 14:00 09:45 16:30 10:45 17:30 11:45 18:00

Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Trip 1

Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales

Trip 2

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 -

Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

411971

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

09:45 16:30 10:45 17:30 11:45 18:00

Trip 2

13:00

18:15

13:45

19:00

15:00

19:45

17:00

22:00

410242 Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales

Trip 2

07:30 14:00

Trip 1

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

Trip 1

Trip 2

13:00

18:30

13:30

19:00

14:30

17:30

17:00

19:30

Travel Times Approximate Travel times from Puerto Natales

(allow time for border crossing and tour connections within the Park) El Calafate

5 hrs.

TDP Laguna Amarga

2 hrs. 30 min

Punta Arenas

3 hrs.

TDP Pudeto

3 hrs. 15 min

Ushuaia

15 hrs.

TDP Administration

3 hrs. 45 min

Approximate Travel times from Puerto Natales

(allow time for border crossing and tour connections within the Park)

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00

El Calafate to Puerto Natales

Daily 07:30

Cootra Bus Terminal

Daily 08:30

Zaajh 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Tue, Thu & Sat. 08:00

Zaajh Bus Terminal

Mon, Fri & Sun. 08:00

Rio Gallegos to El Calafate

Daily 12:30

Sportsman 442595 Rancho Grande

Daily 20:00

Taqsa 491843 Bus Terminal

Daily 03:00 12:00 & 14:30

Taqsa 423130 Rancho Grande

Daily 12:00 14:00 & 20:30

Interlagos 491273 Bus Terminal

Daily 04.00

Interlagos 442080 Terminal

Daily 13:30

Sportsman 492680 Bus Terminal

El Calafate to Chaltén

Buses Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 -

Ushuaia to Puerto Natales

Cootra 412785 Baquedano 456

El Calafate to Rio Gallegos

413672

Ushuaia to Punta Arenas

Buses Pacheco 242174 Colón 900

Buses Pacheco 414513 Baquedano 500

Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales

Rio Gallegos to Punta Arenas

Mon - Wed Thru - Fri - Sat 11:00

Punta Arenas to Ushuaia

Torres del Paine National Park Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - Puma Tours

Punta Arenas to Rio Gallegos Buses Ghisoni 613420 L. Navarro 975

Chaltén to El Calafate

Chaltén Travel 491833 Bus Terminal

Daily 08:00, 13:30 & 18:30

Chaltén Travel Hostel Rancho Grande

Daily 07:30 13.00 & 18:00

CalTur 491842 Bus Terminal

Daily 07:30 13:00 & 18:30

CalTur Av. San Martín 520

Daily 08:00 13:00 & 18:30

Taqsa 491843 Bus Terminal

Daily 17:30

Taqsa 423130 Rancho Grande

Daily 07:30

For more details about terms and conditions, please contact the bus companies directly.

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A Matter of Taste.

Patagonia Gastronomy: Enjoy! Bon appètit! Guten Appetit! ]vbaytb The day was great, a lot of adventure. You probably saw the Cuernos del Paine, guanacos, bandurrias, lakes and other exciting attractions. You took a shower, freshened up, and now... What? How does a Roasted Lamb Barbacue sound with some fresh potatoes cooked with parsley, a lettuce salad and great white wine? Satisfy your curiosity. Bon Appetitte!

In Punta Arenas. Sotito’s is a traditional restaurant whose name comes to our mind in the first place. José Soto, the owner, has been preparing typical regional dishes including king crab, seafood and meat for many years. The place has been redesigned and offers room for both smokers and non smokers. O’higgins 1134, Telephone 243565. Los Navegantes Restaurant is located inside the hotel with the same name. I personally enjoy the fresh smoked salmon as an appetizer and the Sunday specialty: The Cazuela, a typical chilean dish. Great sandwiches at the bar also. José Menéndez 647, Telephone 617700. La Marmita. This cozy restaurant is family owned and features a very particular ambience. The colors, furniture and decoration are captiving. And the food... very good. I recommend the Pulmai, a kind of Curanto, a typical dish of the Island of Chiloé that includes smoked meat, clamps and “chapaleles” a delicious tradicional specialty made from flour that tastes great with “pebre”. Plaza Sampaio 678, Telephone 222056.

In Puerto Natales. La Parrilla de Don Jorge. If you are looking out for a good barbacue this may be the right place for you. A typical chilean place where you can see the grill and the cook as he prepares your dish. Lamb and traditional meat specialty. Excellent quality and taste. Bories 430, Telephone 410999. Última Esperanza. A traditional one in Puerto Natales. “Lomo a lo pobre” (poor’s loin which is not really poorly), “Caldillos” (seafood soups) and chilean salads are typical here. Let you be the judge. Bories 430, Telephone 410999. Are you looking for the yummy stuff? Well, this one’s for you. Mocho’s. Great sandwiches, pizzas and Hot Dogs. Try the Italian Dog. Prices between 2 and 4 dollars. Ladrilleros 328, Telephone 415854.

Top Experience Place: Afrigonia. Dish: Salmon in Coconut Sauce and Tsavo Potatoes. Dessert: Kilimanjaro. The salmon was perfectly fresh and the coconut sauce was as soft as a kiss. I could even smell the freshness of the potatoes as if I were in a backyard sowing them. The mix of flavours was perfectly matched. The Kilimanjaro is a warm cake with a soft chocolate consistence. It goes with white chocolate and strawberry sauce. It melts in your mouth with a perfect delicacy. Address: Eberhard 343, Puerto Natales. Telephone: +56.61 412232 Comments? magazine@welcomepatagonia.com

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いただきます

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The Pleasure ofChocolate omantic lore commonly identifies chocolate as an aphrodisiac. The reputed aphrodisiac qualities of chocolate are most often associated with the simple sensual pleasure of its consumption. Additionally, chocolate’s sweet and fatty nature may stimulate the hypothalamus, inducing pleasureable sensations as well as affecting the levels of serotonin. While serotonin has a pleasurable effect, in high concentrations it can be converted to melatonin which in large amounts reduces sexual drive. Finally, chocolate has been shown to contain unsaturated N-acylethanolamines which might activate cannabinoid receptors or increase endocannabinoid levels resulting in heightened sensitivity and euphoria. Although there is no firm proof that chocolate is indeed an aphrodisiac, a gift of chocolate is a familiar courtship ritual. You are invited to enjoy the flavour of home made chocolates. Our recommendation: Norweisser Chocolates. 663 Carrera Street, Telephone 223900, Punta Arenas.

Pisco sour Have you heard about it? Even though Pisco Sour is produced in high demand and bottled by beverage companies and sold in supermarkets, there is nothing like a fresh Pisco Sour prepared specially for you. It´s perfect with a salted snack. Here goes how to...

Pisco Sour Recipe For 6 people.

1 bottle of 35 degrees Pisco. 1 tea cup of natural lemon juice. 1 tea cup of Gum Syrup. 7 drops of Angostura bitter. 1 egg white. Mix in a blender with ice and enjoy! This recipe courtesy of Santino Bar Lounge. (see ad in page 22)

PatagoniaHandicraft Souvenirs... a tangible way to prove you have been somewhere and to take home the memories of your trip. The traditional magellanic souvenir is the little penguin that can be found almost everywhere. Lamb wool products are very interesting articles and they can be found in a variety of applications: jackets, hats, rest shoes, gloves, sweaters, carpets and so on. Beautiful and distinguished jewlery is made from Lapislazuli, a blue color world known stone. Photographs, postcards and posters and books are always a perfect one to take and

frame at home. Maps, figures, clothing, wines, beer, copper, diplomas and many other articles made by the hand of craftsmen of the end of the world. Where in Punta Arenas... • Chile Típico, Ignacio Carrera Pinto 1015 • RAMA, Waldo Seguel 660 • Puerto del Estrecho, O`Higgins 1401 Where in Puerto Natales... • Etherh Aike Handicraft town • Ñandú Artesanías, Eberhard 301 • Urban Handicraft Design, Bulnes 555

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BIENVENIDO BIENVENIDOAASU SUREFUGIO REFUGIOEN ENLA LAPATAGONIA PATAGONIA BIENVENIDO A SU REFUGIO EN LA PATAGONIA

Reservas: Reservas: TelTel (56-61) (56-61) 715 715 001 001 | reservas@hotelesaustralis.com | reservas@hotelesaustralis.com www.hotelesaustralis.com www.hotelesaustralis.com Reservas: Tel (56-61) 715 001 | reservas@hotelesaustralis.com www.hotelesaustralis.com

(56.61) 712100

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WINE

Guide

Cabernet Sauvignon Chile is a wine country thanks to a gentle climate, a fecund soil and a high quality strain.

Aconcacgua valley produces a closed, tight structure that needs some time in the bottle to develop. Maipo Valley, a pervasive black currant fruit and an earthy, dusty note. Colchagua, rich fruit flavors that can be perceived as sweet due to the ripeness of the fruit... Scent & Flavour: Cabernet Sauvignon smells like black pepper, berries, chocolate, tobacco and cinnamon. The body and the tannins are really felt in the mouth and its acidity is higher if compared to Merlot or Carmenere. Gastronomy: If you have a Cabernet Sauvignon of good body and woody to the mouthfeel, choose red meat and do not hesitate to season it but be careful not to overdo it. Game meat is very good for it: deer, quail and pheasant.

The King of the classic strains, an essential member of the Burdeos club. The most important strain in Chile and responsible of the prestige gained internationally.

References: www.wikipedia.com, www.planetavino.com, www.vinoschilenos.cl, www.elmundodelvino.com

Strength is very important and a fundamental. A flavour should never nullify one another. Keeping that in mind will help a lot to enjoy the most of it. Cabernet Sauvignon is a very robust strain and needs gastronomy to put up to its carachter. Agebility: The capacity of agebility of the great reds is one of its favorable points. As tannic wines age, the tannins begin to decompose and the wine mellows and

improves with age. What are Tannins? Tannins are astringent, bitter plant polyphenols that either bind and precipitate or shrink proteins. The astringency from the tannins is what causes the dry and puckery feeling in the mouth following the consumption of red wine or an unripened fruit. Tannins in wine can come from many sources and the tactile properties differ depending on the source. Tannins in grape skins and seeds tend to be more noticeable in red wines, which are fermented while in contact with the skins and seeds to extract the colour from the skins. Modern winemakers take great care to minimize undesirable tannins from seeds by crushing grapes gently when extracting their juice, to avoid crushing the seeds. Tannins in wine have been described, particularly by novice drinkers, as having the effect of making wine difficult to drink compared to a wine with a lower level of tannins. Tannins can be described as leaving a dry and puckered feeling with a “furriness” in the mouth that can be compared to a stewed tea, which is also very tannic. This effect is particularly profound when drinking tannic wines without the benefit of food. Recommendations: Tierra del Fuego Gran Reserva. Cousiño Macul, Antiguas Reservas Casa Silva, Doña Dominga, Reserva Where to buy: Supermarkets. Líder, must take a cab. Cofrima & Abu-Gosch, check location on page 22.

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National Park

Camping Pehoe. A perfect place to stay.

The Valley of Ascencio. The story of a runaway bandit.

Torres del Paine Map. A look beyond the park.

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Fauna in

Cóndor

(Vultur gryphus)

The Andean condor is the largest bird of prey. They roost and nest in the mountains. Their normal food is carrion, dead, dying or sometimes newborn animals. Its head is bare of feathers. Both parents incubate and care for the young. A condor reaches sexual maturity only after six years of age. Its wingspan exceed 12 feet (4 meters) and weigh up to 25 lbs. (11 kg)

Puma Flamingo

(Phoenicopterus chilensis) 110 to 130 cms tall. It lays a single chalky white egg on a mud mound, between May and August; both parents brood the young for a period of up to 6 years when they reach sexual maturity. Their life expectancy of 40 years is one of the longest in birds.

Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) Stands between 107 and 122 cms. and lives in herds composed of females, their young and a dominant male. When they feel threatened, guanacos alert the herd to flee with a high-pitched bleating call. They can run with a speed of 56 km per hour, often over steep and rocky terrain. Excellent swimmers.

Pumas (Felis concolor patagonica) live solitarily in the mountainous areas and feed mainly on rodents and occasionally on birds and guanacos. They have also been reported to prey on livestock. Pumas avoid humans and incidents of them killing people are extremely rare. Puma can be as long as nine feet (2.8 meters) and weigh 170 lbs (80 kg).

Huemul (Hippocamelus bisulus) Ñandú (Rhea pennata) 3 feet tall with large wings being able to run particularly well. It can reach speeds of 60 km/hour. The sharp claws on the toes are effective weapons. Quite sociable out of the breeding season. It lives in groups of from 5 to 30 birds.

Chile’s national symbol. It is classified as an endangered species. The male body can reach a length of 6 feet (2 meters), with a short tail. It can weigh up to 250 lbs (120 kg), though the females are generally smaller.

Grey Fox

(Lycalopex griseus) The South American Gray Fox is a small canid, weighing 2.5–4 kg (5–9 pounds), and measuring 43–70 cm. Its diet consists mainly of rodents, birds, and rabbits. It breeds in late austral fall, around March. After a gestation period of 2 months, 2-4 kits are born in a den.

Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus) 61 to 76 cms tall and between 2.7 kg and 6.5 kg of weight. They feed in the water, preying on cuttlefish, sardines, squid, krill, and other crustaceans. They mate with the same partner year after year. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.

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Camping Pehoe.

A perfect place to stay in Torres del Paine National Park.

Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann

An affluent network of well kept pathways with distant shelters offer access to the best corners and has contributed so that

Torres del Paine can fulfil the dreams of trekking fans throughout the entire world. The international company Sodexho has created the Pehoé Camping Site to meet all the trekkers needs providing a comfortable place without losing the feeling of adventure. Join us and discover why more than 10.000 people visited Pehoé Camping Site last season. The Location Pehoé Camping Site is located in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park. (See point 7 on map on page 16 ). It is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful places of the Park. The Camping This Camping area offers 50 sites of first quality sanitary installations, electricity 24 hours a day, telecommunication to any part of the world and a special service of “Quincho” Restaurant. There is also a store and Camping Equipment Rental Service. Each site has its own grill, firewood, a table, a bench and shelter to protect oneself from the rain and the wind . There are water taps all around with drinkable water and public conveniences equipped with hot showers, toilets, wash basins for laundry and dishwashing. The “Quincho” Resturant This common place is perfect to have a nice breakfast, lunch or dinner with Sodexho’s quality seal. The view of the Cuernos del paine is also great as you enjoy your meal. A cook prepares the typical “asados”

on a big barbecue as some “performing travelers” play the guitar and sing. How to get here? You can take any of the regular buses that are available to travel from Puerto Natales to the Park which depart at 7:00am and at 14:00pm. It’s a 150 - kilometre trip which lasts about two hours. Regular buses go there everyday. If you are a little far away, here is a brief timetable: 4-hour flight from Santiago de Chile to Punta Arenas plus a 3-hour bus trip to Puerto Natales plus a 2-hour trip from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine. The Store Here you can find almost everything you may need: Food, refreshments, fruit, chocolates, postcards, booklets and trekking accessories. Furthermore, you can get personalized advice regarding the activities in the Park, such as information on the tours, excursions and places to go. Pehoé Camping keeps in touch with companies that offer riding on horseback, river navigation, kayaking, ice trekking, transfers and more.

A perfect view... The characteristic black rock that crowns the Cuernos del Paine is a chronicle of the tectonic and glacial forces that carved this bulk. Over ten million years ago, this type of rock covered vast areas in the region. At some moment these rocks made contact with the magma beneath the earth’s crust which gave form to the granite rocks. Soon, the colossal pressure of the bowels of the planet made these impressive mountains rise which we know as Torres del Paine. When the glacial era arrived, ice covered the whole region. It really excelled itself at the top of the highest mountains. When the ice withdrew it left the granite out in the open on which the black rock was conserved. Due to this, today we can apreciate the enormous towers with different colours all in one bulk which is, without a shadow of doubt one of the greatest and quietest spectacles of the Patagonian nature.

Sunset in Lago Pehoé.

Attractions There are many things to do around Lago Pehoé. If you like this Picture above, you will surely enjoy climbing the Cerro Cóndor where you can have a panoramic view of all the lake and mountains. It is only 45 minutes away from the Camping Site. Salto Gande is a very visited place in the Pudeto area. It takes about a 2-hour walk to get to Pudeto from the camping site. You can see the waterfall from the road on your way there. In the Pudeto area you can take a catamarán to cross Lago Pehoé to Paine Grande area where going to Valle del Francés and a trek through the well known “W” is a must.

which can hardly be seen from the Pehoé area. The place is a little over an hour away from the camping site and during the trip you will be able to see the Cascada Paine ( Paine Cascade )as well as Guanaco families, bandurrias and other local fauna. If you are lucky you will be able to see flamingos on the shore of Laguna Azul. If you love glaciers sailing across Lago Grey is a very interesting half-day excursion aboard M/N Grey II to the very front of the glacier. There are Three daily departures. Visit www.campingpehoe.com for further information.

Domes Camping Pehoé offers more comfort: 5 dome-like tents as you can see in the Picture above. Up to 5 people can sleep comfortably in these tents. Its construction and features provide full insulation from the ground to make them warmer.

If you love riding on horseback, the Outdoors Camping Staff will programme a ride for you with the typical “Gaucho”in the Serrano area. There are several excursions that can be done depending on the time you have. Places like Nutria River, Laguna Jote, Donoso Mount viewpoint, Lago del Toro and Lago Brush are undoubtedly worthwhile visiting because of their beauty whether you are an experienced horseman or not. There is also the Salto Chico (Small Waterfall) just an hour away from the Camping. If you go by car it is recommended to visit the beautiful Laguna Azul where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the three towers

Camping Pehoé is comfortbale for travellers who are alone or in a group as well. Our Food Department can provide box lunches for excursions, lunch or dinners for groups if requested in advance.

Imagine having breakfast, lunch or dinner in the “Quincho” with a great view of the Cuernos del Paine. It is worthwhile remembering as a source of relax and of energy for the next day activities.

Sunsets are romantic and peaceful around the lake. Every sunset has different colours and shades depending on the clouds. If you wake up early you will see amazing sunrises as well. This will surely be on your top ten.

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torres delpaine National Park GLACIAR PINGO

GLACIAR DIC

LAGO DICKSON

15 GLACIAR GREY

LAGO PINGO

LAGO GREY

GLACIAR ZAPATA

PAINE GRANDE MOUNTAIN LODGE

7 LAGO PEHOE

LAGO N

CAMPING PEHOE

GLACIAR TYNDALL

6 GLACIAR GEIKIE

HOTEL RIO SERRANO

12 2

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CKSON

Places 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

LAGO PAINE

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

LAGUNA AZUL

3 4

Hotel Lago Grey Camping Rio Serrano Hostería las Torres Laguna Amarga Port Laguna Verde Administration Camping Pehoe Condor Mountain Viewpoint Salto Chico Lago Sarmiento Port Salto Grande Serrano Town Camping Serón Lago Pingo Trekking Glacier Grey Ice Trekking Hotel Río Serrano Ferrier Mountain Viewpoint Paine Grande Mountain Lodge

NORDENSKJÖLD

LAGO SARMIENTO

LAGUNA VERDE

49 Camping Sites Hot Shower Restaurant & Store Camping Rental 5 Dome Tents Trekking & Excursions

Camping

Pehoe

Hotel 16 Río Serrano

www.campingpehoe.com

The Beginning of Adventure.

www.hotelrioserrano.cl

begin o t e c t pla ursion c e f r e c The p W” Ex

“ TheLodge for up to 100 people LAGO DEL TORO

70 Camping sites Comfortable rooms Hot shower and Restaurant

www.verticepatagonia.cl

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Torres del Paine Trekking Map LAGO DICKSON

LAGO PAINE

2 4

11 10

GLACIAR GREY

LAGUNA AZUL

9 6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Hostería las Torres Camp Serón Refugio Dickson Camp Los Perros Camp El Paso Refugio Grey Refugio Paine Grande Camp Italiano Valle del Fancés 10 Base of Las Torres 11 Valle del Silencio

LAGO GREY

7 LAGO NORDENSKJÖLD PAINE GRANDE MOUNTAN LODGE

Hostería las Torres / Camping Serón

LAGO PEHOE

Camping Serón / Refugio Dickson

Refugio Dickson / Camping los Perros 540

Camping los Perros / Camp. Paso

Paso John Gardner

1.300

Paso Tronco Valle Encantado

150

4hrs

150

Camp. Coirón

Río Olguín

Escalas de Cuerdas 50

Punta Bariloche (2.600 mts.)

8,7 km.

540

5½ hrs

Refugio Paine Grande / Camp. Italiano

12 km.

4hrs

Camp. Italiano / Hostería las Torres

11 km.

200

150

2½ hrs

7,6 km.

Main Peak (3.050 mts.)

220

Refugio Chileno

Cuesta

Trono Blanco (2.197 mts.)

Cabeza de Indio (2.230 mts.)

150

7hrs 16,5 km.

Central Cuerno (2.600 mts.) North Cuerno (2.400 mts.)

7 km.

Hostería las Torres / Base la Torres

Refugio los Cuernos -50

3½ Hrs

10 km.

540

Laguna los Palos Quebrada los Vientos

Terreno pesado

700

140

4½ hrs

Refugio Grey / Refugio Paine Grande

Camp. Los Guardas 540 540 Escalas de Cuerdas

4hrs

140

8,5 km.

6hrs

Camp. Paso / Refugio Grey

Snow Limits.

Vega Grande

150

8,9 km.

Hostería las Torres / Valle del Silencio

1.240

La Cuesta 50

4hrs

9,5 km.

Central Torre (2.800 mts.) South Torre (2.850 mts.)

East Cuerno (2.200 mts.)

Almirante Nieto Mountain (2.640 mts.)

Acarreo Camp. Torres 870

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The Valley of Ascencio. More than a valley. The story of a runaway bandit in Torres del Paine National Park. Text by Mateo Martinic Beros, Magellanic Historian.

One of the most familiar places named after someone, known by those who visit Torres del Paine National Park is Valle Ascencio (Asencio Valley). It lies between the northern watershed of the orographic group formed by the Torres del Paine and Almirante Nieto hill and the opposite ridges facing the northeast. At the end of the valley flows the Ascencio River into the northeast side of the Nordenskjöld lake. The name of the place reminds us of Ascencio Brunel, a legendary bandit of pioneering times in Patagonia towards the XIX century and the beginning of the XX century who was captured in that place by the Chilean police in the winter of 1902. Brunel’s story almost forgotten now, was compiled in several books by Antaño y Ogaño.

on further north through the stony valleys of San Martín and other hidden places of the mountain range, thus his name being famous from Última Esperanza to Chubut throughout eastern Patagonia. After 1902 border comissions entered the Andes to establish the borderlines between Chile and Argentina and told later on that they had seen troops of horses in God forsaken places which supposedly had belonged to Brunel. Brunel was finally captured by the Argentinian police and taken to Río Gallegos where he was put in jail. It did not take him very long to escape from jail taking with him a police horse and headed north to the Chubut where he carried on with his transgressions. There he was caught also but by the indians

Brunel came from the Falkland Islands and was of Uruguayan background. He emigrated to Punta Arenas with other members of his family towards the end of 1880 and started to make a living working on farms. Shortly after he killed a man seemingly due to some passion affaire, stole a couple of horses and escaped from the city to the pampa further north which had begun to be settled with sheep. After that, it is assumed that he headed for the mountain range of Última Esperanza, especially the valleys of Sierra Baguales where he was able to live in safety and freely. It is quite likely that he made that God forsaken land his lair in which he hunted wild horses with his skills with the lasso and rifle. Naturally, this did not keep him from stealing horses from the Tehuelche Indians troops and from the hardworking settlers in south Patagonia. Ascencio had a cunning stratagem that always worked: He would come near the horses wearing the fresh skin of a cougar -which obviously scared the horses and then Brunel would herd them away as far as possible from their owners. This rogue became quite famous as a daring and fearless bandit as well as an outstanding horseman who could ride far distances until he got to a safe place. It is also said that he had trained a couple of horses to run side by side and when one of them showed the slightest signs of tiredness with his weight, he would switch over to the other one at full galop and thus got away outwitting his persecuters. After years of roaming through the pampa and mountains bearing a bad reputation, Ascencio Brunel was wanted by settlers and the Chilean and Argentinian police. A dead horse without its tongue -what the bandit loved to eat- was a sure evidence of his passage and that way he was tracked but never found. So many years of mischief made Brunel an exceptional south american cowboy who switched lairs depending on the circumstances. So he left Baguales and Paine and headed for Río Leona area between Argentino and Viedma lakes and later

this time and handed over to the police of Trelew and put in jail again. Once again he managed to get away making the best of the lack of attention of the guards and also had the nerve to take one of the horses from the police station. From then on his bad name grew within the extensive rural area and from north and south and from sea to mountain range and many more felonies were imputed to him as well as the ghostly speed with which he could move from one place to another in a jiffy. One day rumour had it that Brunel had died and inquiries got nowhere because some said he had been killed by the indians near Río Senguer close to the border of the territory of Aisén while others said he had been captured after being wounded by the Chilean police of Ultima Esperanza. According to the first version towards the end of winter of 1900, Brunel was wandering around a Tehuelche camp trying to steal horses as usual. The indians noticed his presence and surroundend him silently to catch him. Caught by surprise, Brunel dashed right through them at full galop towards a nearby river to cross it and to use it as a shortcut. The river was frozen and with the weight of the saddle and the rider the ice broke

and both fell into the water. This way the indians caught up with him and one of them, the old chief Kenkel shot him with a shotgun before he could reach the river bank. It was also said that when the Tehuelche indians went near him they found him dressed in a softened cougar skin with no more belongings than a worn knife, a lariat with a ball on each end and some flints. After that they burnt him at the stake to erase him from the face of the earth. Another version of Brunel’s capture and death which seems much more accurate to us, is that in the winter of 1902, a couple of Chilean policemen, guards Bascur and Carvajal who were trying to track him down in Última Esperanza found him in the high valleys of Paine area, thanks to the help of Carlos Fuhr who was one of the first settlers in that area. Brunel was sleeping under a tent made of fresh horse skin when he was awakened and taken by surprise by his persecutors. He shouted to them not to shoot, that he would surrender but before they could answer him he himself shot off one bullet at them and fled to the hills. The police shot back at him wounding him and ruining his weapon but he managed to escape. After several hours of persecution he was found dead as it seemed, and half frozen near a stream. Notwithstanding, some had their doubts and insisted on keeping this bandit alive to the extent that they attributed him a crime which happened in 1904 near lake Viedma. But his memory was gradually forgotten and his death was accepted for a fact in an area inside the Paine wall in the valley where the river that bears his name is. Such is the origin of this well known place, but beyond it it seems like nature itself wants to confirm it. In effect, when the traveller admires the impressive shape of the Paine peaks going from south to north from the National Park’s Administrative Office towards the Pudeto area, or going from the latter to Grey lake, if you fix your look carefully on the western wall of the eastern peak you will notice without any effort the silhouette of a man on horseback. The head and body of the rider, a poncho and the bulk of the animal are clearly distinguishable due to the different colours of the base of the rock. The silhouette is quite odd and amazing and whoever looks at it once will do it twice. It is a casual fact clearly enough, but its observation invites us to meditate on nature’s determination to keep this legendary character alive. Thus, the image of the solitary bandit who ended his adventurous life in the vicinity seems to have shaped itself on stone so the nostalgic connoisseurs of old Patagonia can admire it. Ascencio Brunel lives! Marcelo Kunstmann ©2009

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Paine Grande Mountain Lodge. The base camp for trekkers. The beginning of the “W” Excursion. Text by Marcelo Kunstmann. Images by Franklin Pardón.

www.verticepatagonia.cl

If you are interested in trekking around Torres del Paine National Park you may already know about the “Big Circuit”, the “W”, the “Valle del Fancés”, “Refugio Grey”, the “Base of the towers” and more. Please take a look of the Trekking Map on page 18 to understand how trails work. Paine Grande is located in the most important spot where all trails join. We invite you to visit a rugged Mountain Lodge and its Camping Ground with all services you need to set your basecamp...

The Location Paine Grande is located on the shore of Lago Pehoé at the feet of the Paine Grande Mountain Range. This is an strategic

located on the first floor, are furnished with washbasins, toilettes and hot water showers, separated for men and women.

It is easy to access to it from Lago Pehoé pier and from the trails that converge here. It is located next to the Lodge at the foot of the hill being sheltered by the surrounding mountains. Over 70 delimited tent sites, 3 group sites, dining-room tents and kitchen tents makes life outdoors very easy. Trekking This place is the begining of the 2 of the most famous and fascinating trekking trails in Torres del Paine National Park. The Valle del Francés and the trek to Glacier Grey. These are just a part of the “W” which ends with the trek to the base of the Torres del Paine. Check point 7 on page 18 trekking map.

You can also enjoy drinks, beer and wine in the Lodge while you rest and relax in companion of those who have coadventured around the wonders of these beautiful National Park close to a slowcombustion heater with comfortable coaches and an amazing sight. In addition, there is a library where you can rest or

The Camping Ground

Services The Restaurant provides basic food service (American breakfast, lunch and diner) through a self-service system. You can also get lunch boxes that are specially good when yo go and take a hike and want to enjoy a good coffee or soft drinks and excellent sandwiches during the trek.

spot of the primitive zone of the park being accessible through lacustrine way or walking through the trekking paths of the park only. Paine Grande is a main checkpoint of the W-shape trekking trail, being a base camp of excellence. The Rooms The Lodge has a capacity for up to 100 people; rooms with 1, 2 and 3 comfortable berths and drawers to store equipment. Rooms have an excellent view to Lago Pehoé and to the Paine Grande, the Valle del Francés and the east side of Cuernos del Paine. The Lodge offers luggage custody and safety-box. Hygienic services,

read latest news. Internet available to keep in touch with family and friends.

How to get here? Just take the bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park and ask to be left at Pudeto area. There you will be able to take the catamaran that will take you to this side of the Lago Pehoé. For further information visit www.verticepatagonia.cl on the web. See location on page 16.

As you can see in the picture above the view is very beautiful. Add a panoramic view of the side of the Cuernos del Paine, the Valle del Francés (Frenchman’s Valley) and the turqouise waters of the Lago Pehoé. The view from the bar lounge is one of the best; a perfect place to relax and share experiences with other travelers.

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Punta Arenas Main Square. European style, design and architechture still alive. Text by Marcelo Kunstmann.

Today the Main Square of Punta Arenas is a place where thousands of cruiser tourists visit and enjoy the local handicraft on display there throughout the whole summer season. Traditional buildings such as banks and hotels surround it. Its history At its beginning the Main Square was called “Esmeralda”. Later on, in 1968, the local Governor Oscar Viel changed it for “Benjamín Muñoz Gomero nowadays known as Plaza Muñoz Gamero. Governor Francisco Sampaio had a flag mast placed there to hoist the national flag on Sundays and on our National Independance Day. In 1903, Carlos Bories had the trees planted which you can now see there. In 1910 the inner and outer pathways were paved and all sorts of regional flowers were sown. A solid structured kiosk was placed there for the Batallón Magallanes band to play serenades on summer afternoons.

Magallanes Monument On December 16th of 1920, the mounument in memory of the discoverer of the Straits of Magellan, Hernando de Magallanes was erected. This sculpture is made of pure bronze and has a foundation made of cement. This monument conmemorates the figure of this sailor as the

discoverer of this land and at the same time of the indians that inhabited it, who were described in the documents back then as “Patagones” because of their footprints on the ground. This sculpture was made by Guillermo

Córdova upon the request of the wealthy farmer José Menéndez. Main Square’s Vegetation Back then there were still native trees of the southern area in Punta Arenas, like the Coigue de Magallanes (Nothofagus betuloides), Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio)

and the Ñirre (Nothofagus antarctica). However, these trees were not taken into consideration when designing and beginning the construction of the gardens in the Main

Square Muñoz Gamero during the first decade of the xx century. The architecture as well as the flora chosen were from Europe. Architecture On the block west from the Main Square there began the construction of the first catholic parochial temple which was later on destroyed by fire. In those days the population was of about 1800 inhabitants, 200 houses, 8 big stores and 75 of less category like saloons and billiard rooms. There were also several sawmills and some important haciendas. For four decades the Territorial Governer’s Office, the Catedral, the main stores, the Banco Anglo-Sudamericano, the Magallanes Club and other important buildings were built around the Main Square. A traditional place is the Hotel Cabo de Hornos which was inaugurated in 1962 and has been relevant in the tourist development of Magallanes.

This pop art style ad of Hotel Cabo de Hornos is from 1968. The booklet offered pick up at the airport in an elegant station wagon. It was considered as one of the best hotels in Chile.

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Punta Arenas City

Capital of the Magallanes Region. 254 kms to Puerto Natales. 8

10 9

7 4

1 14 3 12

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Main Square Cathedral

Mag ella n

Financial Center Salesian Museum Regional Museum Pier

Santino Pub

Church

10 11 12 13 14

Norweisser Chocolates

Cerro de la Cruz Lookout Point Bus Turistic Information Office Supermarkets

Str ait

Casa Diez Souvenir Store Hotel Cabo de Hornos Coffee Shop 1900 / Tierra del Fuego Restaurant Hostal Calafate

Population: 110.000. Faces the Magellan Strait which can be seen for the first time from your airplane just before the plane lands at Punta Arenas’ airport. Punta Arenas is a 3- hour- bus to Puerto Natales then a 2hour- bus to Torres del Paine National Park.

painted metal roofs that have characterised the city for many years, although since about 1970 the availability of other colours in protective finishes for the characteristic metal roofing has resulted in greater varieties.

Tourism cruises, fishing fleets, scientific investigators, merchandise transportation sail through these southern waters throuhout the year. It is also the main door to the Antarctic continent.

winds (up to 130 km/hour). Winds tend to be strongest during the summer when city officials put up ropes in the downtown area to assist with unique currents of wind created by the buildings.

History & Activity

Location & Geography

Climate

Main Attractions

The 17th century explorer John Byron is sometimes given credit for the naming. But it was not until much later than any sort of city was settled by the Chilean government (1843). The name Punta Arenas grew out of the Spanish term “Punta Arenosa”, which was a literal translation of the English name ‘Sandy Point’. Punta Arenas has also been called “the city of the red roofs” for the red-

The cordillera de los Andes offers a scenery divided by big creeks crossed by channels that form interior seas, like gulfs Almirante Montt and Isla Riesco. From Torres del Paine, the Andes turn their north south direction to end in the Beagle Channel with an east-west direction. Magellan Strait is 560 long and keeps a high relevance in navigation and maritime communications.

The seasonal temperature in Punta Arenas is greatly moderated by its proximity to the ocean, with average lows in July near −1 °C (30.2 °F) and highs in January of 14 °C (57 °F). This doesn’t mean that it is known for stable constant temperatures, only small variability with season. Punta Arenas is also quite dry, with only 43 millimetres (1.7 in) of rain in its wettest month of May. Among Chileans the city is also known for its strong

Among its main attractions there are museums, the monument to the shepherd, the cemetery; regional history and resources centers; the town theatre; the main square, magnificent buildings, duty free, the Strait of Magellan, Cerro de la Cruz, penguin colonies, Forest Reservations, Fuerte Bulnes, trekking circuits in native woods areas, variety of birds, rural tourism, lighthouses and more.

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What to do?

Cerro de la Cruz

Standing in Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross) is a great attraction. You can see the Strait of Magellan and the Mountain Range in the background. If the day is fine the clouds and the blue sky seem painted by an artist. The roofs are painted in strong colors which

makes the view very colourful. How to get there? Locate point 8 in the left page map.If you are in the Main Saquare go two streets to the right to Colón Avenue and go up until Señoret street and the a few steps to the lookout point. Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008

Punta Arenas City and The Strait of Magellan.

If you are interested about the history of the aborigins, we recommend you to visit this museum. This museum’s history began in 1893 with the priest Borgatello and his colaborator Angel Bonove. They began to organize the etnographic collection gathered by the Salesian Missionaries and the natural histories collection of Mr. Benove. The Museum offers a valuable specialized library with photographic and audiovisual material about the ethnic population and history among other themes. Nowadays, the building has 4 levels with exhibitions about history, religion, fauna, flora, industry and trade from the region of Magallanes. Office Hours: Tuesday to sunday 10AM to 12:30AM & 3PM to 6PM Telephone: +56.61 221001 www.museomaggiorinoborgatello.cl

Estancia Lolita black faced ibis and light vultures already adapted to the cold weather at 2 metres distance. There is a close interaction with animals like Guanaco, Darwin Rhea, Patagonia Armadillo, Austral Parakeet, Austral Cavy, Night Heron, Kelp Geese, Grey Fox, Caracara, Chimango Hawk, Grey Headed Geese and more.

More than 200 guanacos running and playing on a typical farm in Patagonia. You will be able to see more than 30 species of Patagonia fauna in their natural environment. Puma, ñandú, the largest bird in size in Patagonia and elegant swans. Beautiful

Location: Km 42 North, about 30 minutes by car. Tour length: 1 hour and 30 minute walk or 30 minutes in a vehicle. Open Everyday from 10AM to 6PM Telephone: +56.61 233057 www.faunapatagonica.com

24 welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine

The Magellanic Penguin.

A funny guy in a tux that goes away but is more loyal than any other one.

Isla Magdalena More than 100.000 each year.

Imagine... you are away from home on a trip for several months.

Once you came back home, how would you find your mate if all looked the same and there were lots of them? You may want to be remembered by your voice...

With a height of between 60 to 75 centimeters and a weight bewteen 3 and 6 kilograms, Magellanic Penguins are a real pleasure to watch. Males are larger than the females. Adults have black backs and white stomachs. Their head is black and have a broad white border running from behind the eye, around the black ear-coverts and chin, and joining on the throat. Chicks and juveniles are grey-blue on their backs, with a more faded greyblue color on their chest. In the wild, Magellanic Penguins can live up to 25 years. Like the other species of penguins, the Magellanic Penguin has very rigid wings used to ‘fly’ under water.

Range & Habitat.

Isla Magdalena is a small island in the Strait of Magellan, Chile. It is located in Magallanes Region northeast of the regional capital Punta Arenas. In 1982 it was declared national monument as part of Los Pingüinos Natural Monument. The penguin colony on the island hosts over 60,000 breeding pairs of the Magellanic Penguin. The island is currently uninhabited.

Otway Sound

Located behind Punta Arenas and at only 40 minutes Otway Sound is a beautiful place where you can ride a horse by the seaside in the search for penguins. (See ad on page 2)

Magellanic penguins, (Spheniscus magellanicus) are found around the Falkland Islands and the coasts of Argentina and Chile. They are an abundant species with an estimated 100,000 breeding pairs in the Falklands alone. Larger populations inhabit Argentina and Chile. Breeding colonies are found from the Gulf of San Matías in Argentina, south to Tierra del Fuego, and north along the Pacific coast of Chile up to Puerto Montt. In the region of Magallanes they can be found on Magdalena Island and in Otway Sound. Magellanic penguins nest in burrows in more sparsely populated colonies than other species and prefer offshore islands with tall grass and vegetation where they can find protection from birds of prey. Although the Atlantic coast of South America has less vegetation, it is still home to a large breeding colony.

Breeding. Magellanic penguins, only attempt to breed once every returns to the colony to claim its usual burrow with later. Breeding tends to be with the same partner begins in September-October, of the colony. Simple nests and 2 similar-sized eggs days. Incubation takes chicks remain in the can take from as little depending on of the 2nd chick tends to be specially

year. The male the female returning as in previous seasons and depending on the longitude are built in burrows or small pits are laid within a period of 3-4 approx. 40 days. After hatching, nest until fledging, which as 9 to as long as 17 weeks food abundance. Mortality is higher and the first chick favoured byn the parents, when food is limited.

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Marcelo Kunstmann ÂŠ2008

Isla Magdalena. More than 120.000 penguins.

Magellanic Penguins mate with the same partner year after year. Males claim the burrow from the previous year and wait to reconnect with their female partners. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.

Ecstatic Display. Magellanic Penguins are considered relatively aggressive and can inflict a strong bite if touched. Although penguins can be approached, they are wary of human presence. Birds may cock their heads from side to side as a warning signal. Cessation of normal activity may also be indicative of disturbance in particular with nesting birds. Magellanic penguins are relatively noisy and make a donkey-like braying noise. Magellanic Penguins are often seen performing the â&#x20AC;&#x153;ecstatic displayâ&#x20AC;?. This can either be part of the mating ritual or can merely be indicative of territory ownership. Birds performing this display stretch their neck and point their beaks skywards whilst spreading their wings and making a braying noise. The display is often performed repetitively over periods of up to an hour or more.

Swimming

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Travel Information Magazine

welcomepatagonia

CHORRILLOS B. ZAMORA

The door to Torres del Paine National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier.

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1 Main Square MAGALLANES 2 Handycraft Town Historical Museum 3 4 Post Office Últ 8 5 Parrish i m 6 Pier aE 7 Hospital sp era 8 Hotel Eberhard 9 Patagonia Dulce nz aS 10 Miriam Parra Handicraft ou 11 Hotel Lady Florence Dixie 12 Keokén Bed & Breakfast nd 13 Ñandú Handicraft Store I DR

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Bus Tourisim Information Office

uerto Natales is a small town alongside Ultima Esperanza sound with a population of 19.000 inhabitants... who live peacefully all year long. It is a blessed place to develop commercial activities as tourism, fishing and farming. The city has a good tourist infrastructure, coffee shops, restaurants, a casino, a picturesque shopping, a history museum, and travel

agencies to advise on attractions. There are almost 100 lodging chances from bunk houses to fine hotels.

History The Province where the city is located was baptized under the name Última Esperanza (Last Hope) by the sailor Juan Ladrilleros, who was looking for the Strait of Magellan in the year 1557. It was his last hope to find the Strait. In 1830 a new expedition sailed through the fjords and channels of Última Esperanza. It

was the British expedition of the frigate HMS Beagle. The names of some the expeditioners (Robert FitzRoy, William Skyring and James Kirke) is the origin of several place-names in the area. Puerto Natales comes from the Latin term natalis, which means birth. Founded in 1911 and colonized by people from Chiloe Island, and by German and English colonists who, with their particular persistence, transformed the Patagonia into one of the most important cattle producers and

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exporters, until the end of the seventies.

Location & Geography Near 254 kilometers to the NW of Punta Arenas, the city is located at the bank of Channel Señoret inlet, which mixes its waters at the south with Almirante Montt gulf, a big interior sea and at the north with Ultima Esperanza fjord. Puerto Natales is 256 km. from Rio Gallegos (NE) (Argentina), 362 km. from Calafate (Argentina) (N), and 48 km. from Rio Turbio (Argentina) (N).

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What to do?

Love & Beer by Marcelo Kunstmann

Daniel and Mariana, are a young couple who changed their life from the big city to a small town in Patagonia, Puerto Natales.

Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers are located in Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, near Torres del Paine National Park. This is Serrano glacier and its lake. This glacier can be reached from Puerto Natales taking a regular navigation that usually takes the whole day. After navigating for a few hours the vessel stops at Puerto Toro pier and then

passengers walk by the shore on the left side of the picture through a wonderful native forest and along the coastline of Lake Serrano reaching very close to the glacier wall. Check for the excursion at any Travel Agency or at your lodging place.

Riding a bike in Patagonia. is great with all that mountains in the background. There is plenty of loca fauna to enjoy along Ultima Esperanza Sound. The air is perfect to purify yourself inside and re gain energy. Just try a bike ride to wherever you may want to go. It is safe. Everybody can do. No age limit. Grab your camera and don’t forget to send us a good picture of you, the bike and the scenery to magazine@welcomepatagonia.com

Did you think that Torres del Paine National Park and the glaciers were the only thing to go to? We hope not. That would be a big mistake! Puerto Natales is a very beautiful city and the surroundings are spectacular. Going along the road to the north or south

Where to rent a bike: Sendero Aventura, Tomas Rogers 179. Office Hours: Everyday. 10AM to 1PM and 3PM to 11PM. 1 hour: CLP 2.000, 5 hours: CLP 5.000

Puerto Bories Historical Museum. colonization began. With more than 100 years of age this place has become an attraction. Having a stroll by Puerto Bories is like going back in a time machine. An enormous lonely chimney and high block wall that survived the pass of time gives us some idea of what it all was like. A victorian archictechture, english machinery, workshops and other equipment tells about a time of gold. Gigantic warehouses for sheep shearing and storing the wool. Just 5 kilometers from the city there is an architechtural witness of the colonization of Chilean Patagonia. Puerto Bories was an active village before Puerto Natales was founded and one of the places where

Office Hours: Everyday 9AM to 1PM and from 3PM to 8PM. Admission price: CLP 3.500 How to get there: 1 hour walk or a Cab for CLP 2.000 average.

A quiet night life... Making new friends with other travelers or with local people can be entertaining and is safe in Puerto Natales. Pubs offer a relaxed ambience, the typical Pisco Sour and international drinks as well. Although businesses accept credit cards it is a good idea to bring some vcash. Walking along the seaside and wait for the sunset is an excellent option. The sun sets facing the city from the sea and is perfect for the more romantic ones and for those who enjoy photography. Undoubtedly, you will remember Puerto Natales as one of the place you have been in...

Lovers of the purity of these faraway lands and of good beer (specially Daniel who told us he proudly has spent time traveling and tasting beer in different latituds) they fullfilled their dream of producing their own bier at home. In time, they thought how good it would be to produce for others and so, to offer a distinctive beer in Puerto Natales. That is how Cerveza Baguales began. In an associative enterpreunership with Chad, a friend and partner from the USA they have acquired the knowledge to create, using natural ingredients and no preservants, two recipes of rugged bier with the spirit of a “Patagon”. I had the pleasure to drink a couple of glasses directly for the barrels and hope to repeat the experience soon. Moving to a small town has brought certain benefits: a more relaxed life in a city with eternal and romantic sunsets and a beautiful child to rise and to watch playing in Patagonia fields.

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Between myth and reality. In 1896 the scientific world was fascinated by the discovery of skin, bones and other remains of an extinct animal in this cave: The Milodon (Mylodon Darwini). Scientists originally believed the remains to be fresh, indicating that the animal still existed. But later tests proved that the remains were thousands of years old. The milodon did supposedly extinct by the end of the Pleistocene era. The Cueva del Milodón is a very known attraction located just 24 kilometers north of Puerto Natales on the way to Torres del Paine National Park. This natural monument is composed by three caves and a rock formation known as the Silla del Diablo (Devil’s Seat). The main cave is 150 meters above sea level, measures 30 meters high, 80 meters long and 200 meters deep. Aside from the cave and its historical and scientific importance, the region has lovely landscapes. This is because this area is a transition between the steppe and the forest. Some local trees and plants include the ñirre, the calafate and the romerillo. The Silla del Diablo is just a kilometer before the cave. This huge rock formation looks like an enormous chair. When the milodon remains were discovered in this area, a folk tale was born that this was the milodon’s seat. Over time, the devil took the place of the milodon in the rock formation’s name. The Corporación Nacional Forestal (CONAF, the National Forest Corporation), which oversees the area, has set up picnic areas; a popular place to go to for the inhabitants of Puerto Natales. Before the cave there is an office and small museum with regarding information. There is also a Coffee Shop & Restaurant with a great view to the mountain range and a souvenir store.

How to get there? If you are traveling by car just go north from Puerto Natales by the paved road. You will see a sign that indicates detour to the left by the unpaved road. Just a few miles and you are there. The same road takes to Torres del Paine National Park by Serrano entrance and should be driven carefully. If you are by yourself, travel Agencies offer the tour in Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas as a regular excursion.

Trekking Paths Path to the Big Cave: Educative trail with an extensión of 800 meters. It takes just 30 minutes. The path has stations with information with features and answers regarding the place. This can be done by anybody without restriction of age.

THE MILODÓN The Milodón was a herbivorous mammal with the aspect of a big bear with the head of a camel. It belonged to the family of the Armadillo, the ant-bear and the sloth and the calculations say that his height was twice a human being’s one. The causes of its exctintion are not clear: it might have been hunted by the first landers of the extreme south of the continent or because of a huge climate change that made temperature rise and change the vegetation. A third factor might have been the vulcanic activity. Perhaps, the mix of these factors made this animal disappear.

Small Cave Path: This is 35 meters long. The ground is made of sandstone and cement. It has no explicative signs.

The Making of... Arnaldo Alarcón Fabres, former regional director of Tourism in Magallanes in the late seventies told us interesting details about the Milodon in the cave. The original idea to set a Milodon in the entrance of the cave belongs to architech and writer Alvaro Barros who in the seventies projected his idea and contacted the National Museum of Natural History. Harold Krusell, a talented artist, was the man who in 1978 developed the idea at his workshop in Santigo de Chile and made a 1:1 model from fiber-resin material. The Milodon was exhibited at the University of Magellan in Punta Arenas for a week which caused much interest among its inhabitants. After that it was sent to Puerto Natales and set in the cave.

welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine

Aldo Merello ÂŠ2008

The Magellanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wind. A free and clean natural resource of energy. by CERE-UMAG, Center for Energy Studies, University of Magellan.

There are only a few days a year when wind is not blowing over the steppe of Magallanes. And if some days it seems that there is a little breeze flowing slow at ground level, there is always a lot of wind energy at higher altitudes. Processed statistics of recorded data at meteorological stations shows annual average wind speeds of 9 and 10 meter per second, at a standard 10 meter height.

Plant Factor, doubling standard european parks. Although abundant and almost permanent, the wind speed is unstable and therefore limited to be used as a constant source of electricity. It must be injected to a bigger, firm, electrical grid, generally fueled by fossils. That grid will only receive about 30% to 40% of the total wild wind electricity in order to maintain the quality of generated electricity.

The driving force for wind is a differential of pressure in the air caused by density changes due to solar radiation which pushes it from high to lower centers. It is also accelerated by the rotation of the planet and at Magallanes latitude the westerlies winds blow as frontal systems created at the open South Pacific Ocean. Indeed, nearly three quarters of the time in a year, the wind comes from the NorthWest SouthWest.

So, what should be done to take real advantage of the enormous wind energy potential of Magallanes? Although the space is enough to install hundreds without disturbing the landscape, the rather small electrical grids of the cities in the region can accept the electricity converted by a few number of machines only. Then, how to save the electricity in a way that can be used at will, whenever necessary? Not in chemical batteries of course, because of the too low capacity of these devices.

The wind is caught by special profiled blades installed in rotors at 50 or more meters high, transforming the push of the air into a slow rotational movement of no more than 30 revolutions per minute. Then, a mechanical gear device and/or an electronic system inside the nacelle on the top of the windmill, converts the energy of the air into electricity. A windmill installed in Magallanes can produce the equivalent of more than 4.000 hours per year at its nominal power rate, thus representing more than a 50% of

Good technical solutions are under fast development through mechanical and electrochemical means. It is possible to store energy in modern flywheels, made with composite material running on high efficiency support axes, almost frictionless. The rotational mass that is accelerated by an electrical motor when absorbing energy at high winds, releases it when necessary to mantain the speed of the electricity generator, when wind speed decreases.

This dynamic solution has been applied in commercial applications as back-up low consumption energy systems, eliminating the need of conventional batteries. Another more innovative solution consists in storing the wind electricity into a physical product by manufacturing it from a cheap raw material, water for example. The electrolysis of water requires electrical energy to decompose water into hydrogen and oxygen, that can be stored as gas by its compression. The hydrogen behaves as natural gas, and contains good energy levels and is less risky to handle than gasoline, and does not produce carbon emissions during its combustion; the oxygen is also a valuable byproduct. Although the chemically induced electrolytic process is well known since the 19th century, the advent of modern permeable membranes to ions is opening great spaces for a new, efficient, chemically neutral processes to manufacture hydrogen, which can be put in operation by clean electricity from renewable resources. A well known automobile company is has improved internal combustion motors to operate with hydrogen as fuel, and promotes a national system of stations at highways for hydrogen recharge; other companies develop Fuel Cells to directly generate electricity by recombining hydrogen and air over an active surface. These solutions are environmentally friendly because water is re-created by the combustion of hydrogen and there is only conversion, rather than consumption of energy in the whole process, energy that may be permanently available in form of wind in Magallanes region. Can Patagonia export its wind energy as cryogenic liquid or compressed hydrogen for new clean combustion technologies? Of course. Besides wind, Magallanes has important primary energy resources: natural gas, some oil and huge reserves of coal. There are notorious tidal marine currents in the Strait of Magellan and in many fjords and channels. The conversion technologies finally define the cost of the electricity and other fuels used for heating and cooking, and at present the fossil fuels show more convenient economic figures when evaluation is made with an average term vision. The real necessity to reduce carbon emissions from fossil fuel combustion puts strong pressure to increase the use of renewable energy resources, in order to firmly recover the natural balance of the atmosphere composition. The almost always present wind of Magellan is a valuable, real factor towards this urgent goal: we should be harvesting it now to produce clean electricity, and continue searching on how to store the enormous, endless wind energy into a product, to use it on demand as clean, natural, renewable fuel.

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Crossword Puzzle Travel Information Magazine

Just for Fun...

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What`s up in Welcome Patagonia Magazine?

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1. Biggest bird that runs. 2. It can fly so high. 4. Protected mammal in the Park. 6. 2 of them. The Grande and the Chico. 7. Capital city of Magallanes Region. 8. A funny dude in a tuxedo. 11. Delicious fish. 12. A grand variety in Chile. 14. Typical Patagonia bush with a red flower. 16. Delicious meat when roasted.

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3. You can take a lot. 5. Can take you to Torres del Paine National Park. 9. Your home outdoors. 10. A river and a glacier. 13. A famous traveler and scientist. 15. A big guy in the entrance of a cave. 17. There is one at the end of every day. 18. 3 rounded peaks.

Answer Key

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Don’t miss it when you are up there in Torres del Paine... Batteries - Memory cards - Music and video Players - Cameras - Bags - Cd’s - Dvd’s - Video tapes

We accept credit cards Zona Franca Mall, Store 137 in Punta Arenas (Beside the mechanical stairs) Telephone (56.61) 710105