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Taste of the wild FISHING AND FORAGING ON THE YORKSHIRE COAST
Grit, glory & glamour FROM THE HARD WORK OF THE STABLES TO THE GLAMOUR OF LADIES DAY
Art Attack GET INSPIRED BY A VISIT TO THE YORKSHIRE ARTSPACE IN SHEFFIELD
Access all areas FIND OUT why the new multimillion pound arena in leeds has been wowing the world
INSIDE YORKSHIRE TOUR DE FRANCE CYCLING SPECIAL
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WHIZZY LIZZIE
ALLEZ YORKSHIRE
EXPERT VIEW
Yorkshire’s golden girl and British cycling success story
We take a detailed look at Stage One and Stage Two of the Tour de France 2014
The Downing brothers take us through the peloton’s view of the Grand Départ yorkshire.com
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Front cover image: Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band performing at first direct arena, Leeds. Photograph: © Danny Payne Front cover image Cycling Special: Lizzie Armitstead, Ambassador for the British Cycling Breeze programme which aims to deliver informal bike rides for women. Photograph: © British Cycling Published by: Welcome to Yorkshire Dry Sand Foundry Foundry Square Holbeck Leeds LS11 5DL © Welcome to Yorkshire 2014 Designed and produced by: Will Hodgson / Welcome to Yorkshire Printed by: Acorn Web Offset Ltd, Normanton, West Yorkshire
Visitors overlooking the River Skell from the Surprise View in Studley Royal Water Garden © National Trust images/John Millar
Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, Welcome to Yorkshire can accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions. Information throughout this magazine is compiled from details supplied by organisations or establishments concerned. No recommendation by Welcome to Yorkshire is implied by the inclusion of any information and Welcome to Yorkshire accepts no responsibility in the matter. Prices, dates, hours of opening etc. were correct at the time of going to press. Readers are reminded that these details are subject to change and they are advised to check when finalising any arrangements. Please note, the destination guides have been placed by our partners and the content approved by them. It is not intended to be a comprehensive guide to all destinations and does not necessarily represent the views of Welcome to Yorkshire. The paper in this magazine originates from timber that is sourced from sustainable forests, managed to strict environmental, social and economic standards. The manufacturing mill has both FSC & PEFC certification and also ISO9001 and ISO14001 accreditation. Once you have finished with this magazine, please pass it on to someone else who may be interested or recycle it.
Need to get in touch? Contact the Editor Andrew Denton adenton@yorkshire.com Become a member Kim Broderick kbroderick@yorkshire.com Advertise with us Kerry Ludlow kludlow@yorkshire.com Marketing opportunities Michelle Anderson manderson@yorkshire.com Communications Dee Marshall dmarshall@yorkshire.com
Follow us: @welcome2yorks @LeTourYorkshire
Like us: welcometoyorkshire LeTourYorkshire
Welcome We are proud to have contributions from some of the finest journalists in the UK, who beautifully tell tales of the county from the arts, heritage and cycling to the downright quirky. Who knew Sheffield has more artists in England than anywhere outside London or that Leeds-born Barbara Taylor Bradford drew such inspiration from the Brontës? As the host for the Grand Départ of the 2014 Tour de France, this year’s issue includes a special supplement showcasing the very reasons why Yorkshire was chosen to host the world’s largest annual sporting event. Combine that with Lonely Planet naming Yorkshire in the top three regions in the world to visit and you'll see that 2014 really is our year!
Gary Verity, Chief Executive Welcome to Yorkshire
Meet the Writers PAUL HOWARD
Steve McClarence
JAMES ELLIS
Born in Leeds, his passion for cycling has since seen him write three cycling books, including ”Sex, Lies and Handlebar Tape”, and the acclaimed biography of Jacques Anquetil.
An award winning travel writer. He specialises in India and off-thebeaten track Britain and his work appears in The Times, the Daily Telegraph and the Yorkshire Post.
A journalist and photographer who specialises in the travel industry. Former travel editor and deputy features editor of Metro and writes for most national newspapers.
Sarah Freeman
DAVE LEE
KEVIN RUSHBY
Sarah was born and brought up in Leeds. She pursued a long-held ambition to be a journalist and is currently features editor of the Yorkshire Post.
Dave Lee is a writer and award winning film maker who has worked all over the world and writes on food and drink for the Yorkshire Post.
An award winning film maker, Kevin is also the author of four acclaimed travel books, a regular contributor to radio and is the Guardian Travel's 'Explorer'.
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Contents 6 Yorkshire Highlights The very best experiences, attractions and latest news across Yorkshire.
80 ACCESS ALL AREAS The first direct arena in Leeds hosts some of the biggest and best musical names on the planet.
16 TASTE OF THE WILD Kevin Rushby experiences East Yorkshire's towering cliffs.
85 HARROGATE & SURROUNDING MARKET TOWNS 86 THE YORKSHIRE COAST
24 WELCOME TO YORK
88 HERE'S TOMMY From teenage tearaway to Head Chef, we hear Tommy Banks' story.
27 YOU'LL LOVE SKIPTON The gateway to the magnificent Yorkshire Dales.
92 WELCOME TO LEEDS
29 NORTH YORK MOORS
94 ON TOP OF THE WORLD Yorkshire has captivated the travel experts at Lonely Planet.
32 the OLDER THE BETTER Discover the delights of Hull Old Town and explore Hull's rich heritage.
96 getting here All the information you need to plan your next trip to Yorkshire.
37 NATIONAL TRUST Many historic houses and gardens, mills and monuments for great days out and visits.
Tour de France Cycling Special
38 EXPERIENCE WAKEFIELD For art lovers, for families, for everyone. 42 ART ATTACK Sarah Freeman gets to the art of the city in Sheffield. 48 WELCOME TO SHEFFIELD
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3 INTRODUCTION We are proud to host the world's greatest cycle race.
50 DEVONSHIRE ARMS The Duchess of Devonshire offers an insight into her 30,000 acre estate.
4 WhIZZY LIZZIE Lizzie Armitstead talks to us about success, ambition and the county that inspired her to get on a bike.
53 KEIGHLEY & WORTH VALLEY RAILWAY Go on an epic steam adventure in the heart of Brontë Country.
8 THE DALES NEVER FAILS Take in the outstanding scenery and attractions of Stage One. 15 STAGE ONE WITH THE DOWNING BROTHERS Russell and Dean Downing take us through the challenges the peloton will face on Stage One.
54 WEST YORKSHIRE 56 GRIT, GLORY & GLAMOUR A look behind the scenes at Middleham Stables and at the glamour of Ladies' Day. 62 SOUTH YORKSHIRE
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64 BEST IN SHOW Our White Rose Awards winners provide the perfect inspiration for your next visit or trip away.
16 BLOOD, SWEAT AND GEARS The highlights of Stage Two, of ancient and modern. 23 STAGE TWO WITH THE DOWNING BROTHERS The Downing brothers offer technical advice for Stage Two.
68 TRAVEL IN TIME We take a closer look at Yorkshire’s accommodation with a difference.
24 vision of a county Yorkshire Festival 2014 is coming to the county. 28 BEST OF THE REST A selection of stunning rides for those who prefer to take things at a more leisurely pace.
74 THE YORKSHIRE DALES AND TOWNS OF HERRIOT COUNTRY 76 ROOMS AT THE INN Great food, real ale and a warm bed within staggering distance.
30 THE MAGIC NUMBER Different ways you can experience Stage One and Stage Two.
78 HULL & EAST YORKSHIRE
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Hull joins the Culture Club
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Hull 2017 programme highlights include: •A n extraordinary opening ceremony that will involve four 'rivers' of light, people and sound flowing into the city involving 3,000 volunteers. Elephants will walk the streets of Hull again alongside lost trawlermen, dancing white phone boxes and images of Hull's rich past and creative future. •A n aerial spectacular with Director of forthcoming Commonwealth Games Closing Ceremony Mark Murphy and outdoor arts company Walk the Plank to form part of Hull's 2017 Freedom Festival. The event will incorporate ground-breaking design, choreography, an evocative live music score and jaw-dropping fireworks to tell the world Hull's story. The theme aims to honour one of Hull's most famous alumni Philip Larkin and embody one of his immortal lines: "What will survive of us is love." •A n environmental legacy. Artistdesigned gateways and pictorial meadows will form a major feature of Hull's green agenda for 2017 with thousands of trees planted to form sustainable gateways to the city.
•S onic Lumiere - a stadium event featuring Durham Marenghi, Hull's award-winning lighting designer, working with 500 dancers in a digital sound and light concert on the theme of illusion and fairs Hull's 2017 programme will follow a number of themes to celebrate the city including Roots and Routes, Made in Hull, Freedom and Quirky. The proposed programme will include 15 national and international commissions, 12 artists' residencies; 25 festivals; eight major community participation projects; a programme of conferences and major broadcasting events; plus programming activity across 365 days with an estimated 1,500 special events. During the bidding process the support for Hull's bid was exceptional: online supporters numbered over 16,000; the Twitter campaign trended UK-wide six times during the process; a film that captured the aspirations and passion of the people of Hull that was played to the judges as part of the final presentation was seen by over 70,000 people in under a week; and the bid's initial private-sector sponsorship target exceeded with 22 sponsor companies signing up as Hull 2017 Angels.
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© Visit Hull and East Yorkshire
Word is spreading like wildfire that this East Yorkshire city is set to see big things over the next few years after being named the UK City of Culture 2017. Worth a staggering £60m to the city in 2017 alone, the coveted title will help deliver the £190m ten-year City Plan outlined by Hull City Council to create 7,500 jobs. It is on task to host a spectacular programme for 2017 that will deliver artistic excellence and events on a scale never seen before in the city, enticing visitors from the whole of the UK and beyond. Eleven cities originally entered and Hull was shortlisted with Swansea Bay, Leicester and Dundee before beating off all three to take the crown. Gary Verity, Chief Executive of Welcome to Yorkshire, said: "The whole city's passion and determination to win this status was matched only by the diverse and thriving cultural scene currently flowing through Hull. This is just a start of an exciting journey and with the county's main port and link to Europe in the city, we hope it will provide a real boost to tourism during the coming years." Inspired by Larkin's poem 'Days' the ambition is for each day of Hull 2017 to make a difference to a life in the city, the UK and the world.
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It’s been revealed that Yorkshire has more Michelin Starred restaurants than any other county in England, outside of London. The 2014 Michelin Guide names five top Yorkshire restaurants as having a Michelin Star. For A FULL LIST GO TO www.yorkshire.com/MICHELIN
Yorkshire tweets It shouldn't come as such a surprise; we all know Yorkshire is the best place to be. Now, so does everyone. @CatherineShuker
Busily saving for our family of 4 to jet over from Western Australia and visit friends in your lovely district for TDF. @LycraJedi
Yorkshire, our home away from home. We consider NZ God's Own and Yorkshire the same. Hard to find anywhere that's better! @Gaylharr
Normally wafting about Europe, SE, South, Central Asia and Oz etc- latest love? Yorkshire. Brilliant walking, food and people. @edentravels
Yorkshire has some of the best and toughest cycling roads in the UK. Not to mention how good it would be to see the rainbow jersey on British shoulders on our roads! @BenMingham
Congratulations to lovely Hull and all its smashing people. #cityofculture2017 @SarahMillican75
WELCOME TO WENTWORTH WOODHOUSE
After being inaccessible to most members of the general public for over 60 years, the largest privately-owned house in Europe is finally awaking from its slumber. The two houses of Wentworth Woodhouse, in Wentworth, South Yorkshire are built in the Baroque and Palladian styles. www.wentworthwoodhouse.co.uk
Great to see Ribblehead, Roseberry Topping, Gordale Scar, Rievaulx and Whitby Harbour in the Top 50 views in England today. @will_hodgson
Such great news to hear that le Tour de France will start in my Mother's birthplace of Yorkshire! So excited. More racing in the UK! @MarkCavendish
Follow us: @welcome2yorks
Like us on: facebook.com/welcometoyorkshire
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A New Reality Artists create 'A New Reality' for the former brewery at The Tetley. The inaugural programme for The Tetley, a new centre for contemporary art and learning, will unpick the fabric of the building, its history and future use, to present a series of exhibitions, discussions, events
and residencies that involves artists and audiences in realising a new era of the iconic former Tetley Brewery headquarters building in Leeds, which opened in late 2013. www.thetetley.org
COMING SOON
Beverley’s cobbled streets, bustling eateries and thrilling races are a favourite with visitors to Yorkshire. Well known to shoppers for its upmarket, charming boutiques and independent retailers, the arrival of Flemingate, by developers the Wykeland Group and anchored by Debenhams and H&M, will complete the picture. As well as masses of large retailers, visitors can enjoy a 5 screen digital cinema, restaurants and bars and much more. www.flemingate.com
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The Star Inn the City The Star Inn the City, opened in 2013. Located in the Old Engine House on the edge of York's Museum Gardens in a riverside setting close to the historic Lendal Bridge, it has an enviable position, uses the best produce and offers genuine Yorkshire hospitality. The main dining is inside the Engine House building and a new glazed extension offers dining for around 120 diners with additional private and outside dining options. This new all- day brasserie-style dining concept, the brainchild of Andrew Pern and Justin Brosenitz, carries through from breakfast to dinner - and all things in between! www.starinnthecity.co.uk yorkshire.com
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Remember 1914 Commemorating the bombardment of Scarborough in 1914 and the impact of the First World War, Scarborough Museums Trust is leading the ‘Remember Scarborough’ project.
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he project commemorates the centenary of this event and will be holding a temporary exhibition in 2014 at the Art Gallery. Working with partner museums and organisations, there will be events in Scarborough and across the region. In 1914, German warships fired hundreds of shells on Scarborough, Whitby and Hartlepool: an offensive which became known as 'The Bombardment'. The century will also be marked with flypasts at stately homes, including Castle Howard and with exhibitions at attractions, such as The Thackray Medical Museum in Leeds, which is focusing on the medical advances that came out of the First World War with their Unknown Heroes exhibition from July. www.scarboroughmuseumstrust.org.uk
Paddle boarding Fancy something a little different? Why not try your hand at stand up paddle boarding? It's a great way to see our amazing coastline. Take a paddle board lesson to get you started at: Concept Have one 1 Fluid of the most experienced surf instructors in the UK... although a bit of a menace on a paddleboard!
RHINOS THE BIGGEST AND BEST
The England squad at the Rugby League World Cup 2013 gave their blood, sweat and tears to make it as far as the semi-finals. A quarter of the England squad selected for the tournament were Leeds Rhinos players. Leeds Rhinos are sponsored by Leeds Building Society. www.leedsrugby.com
Surf School Enjoy a 2 Whitby great day paddle boarding up the River Esk or along this spectacular coastline.
balance and try something new. The perfect craft to explore the coastline.
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© SWpix.com
Surf School 3 Scarborough @ Cayton Bay - Test your
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yorkshire highlights
Fabulous Fillings After years of running their family bed business ‘Harrison Spinks Beds Ltd’, Simon Spinks bought Hornington Manor Farm enabling him to grow natural fillings on the farm for his beds. The Fillings incorporate the wool, flax and hemp produced on the farm to help reduce the products impact on the environment, as they are all green and completely natural. The Grade II listed farm has a unique heritage tracing back to Roman times. Set in 300 acres of beautiful Yorkshire pasture and arable land, together with their own flock of sheep, woods, a river front, protected hedgerows and a rich diversity of wildlife and crops. This is the perfect setting to grow fillings for eco natural bed mattresses. After purchasing the farm it became apparent that something should be done with the beautiful Grade II listed manor house, so work began on lovingly restoring the house to its former glory. Along the way many beautiful details of Georgian and Victorian architecture were recovered. The Manor is now open for holiday lettings including 16 bedrooms in four areas of the house: Hornington Lodge, Manor House, West Wing and the Servants Quarter. www.horningtonmanorholidaylets.co.uk
Hottest tickets in town!
Festival of Ideas 12–22 June 2014 With over 120 events to choose from across diverse themes ranging from economy to science, there's bound to be something to inspire you! www.yorkfestivalofideas.com
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LIVE in Barnsley 21 June 2014 A FREE music festival in a number of venues, in an area of Barnsley town centre. The aim of the festival is to try to recreate a Greenfield vibe in an urban environment. www.liveinbarnsley.co.uk
Freedom Festival 5–7 September 2014 Attracts performers from across the UK and Europe to perform in Hull. Experience the very best in music, dance, art, street theatre and entertainment. www.freedomfestival.co.uk
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yorkshire highlights & business news
Catch of the Day BHP is the largest independent accountancy firm in the North. They act for many of the region’s leading businesses and have recently been appointed as advisors to the market leading Wetherby Whaler.
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ith more than forty years’ experience, The Wetherby Whaler has become a leading player in the popular fish and chip restaurant and take-away market in Yorkshire. It has a tradition of great fish and chips served in first class surroundings. BHP has strong expertise in the leisure and tourism sector and working with family businesses across Yorkshire. They have advised Wetherby Whaler in expanding within their sector adding expertise in finance, tax and growth strategy. www.bhp.co.uk
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Independent brewery and pub operator, Leeds Brewery, is to expand its production capacity and open its first pub outside Leeds – The Duke of York in York city centre – following a finance deal from Santander Corporate & Commercial. it will mean the brewery now operates six pubs. To find out how Santander can help you, go to: www.santander.co.uk
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gREAT GARDENS
The Marshalls Garden Visualiser lets you design your garden exactly the way you want it. You'll be able to plot and plan your ideal garden in stunning 3D quality. You can even use your own house as the backdrop! Why not take inspiration from some of Yorkshire’s stunning gardens. www.marshalls.co.uk
Zero waste 1000 brews in a day The tea buying team at Taylors of Harrogate taste anything up to 1000 teas a day. That’s a serious amount but that's what's required to make a proper brew. Obviously, they don’t have a mug of each, but they do taste every single one and use their carefully trained palates to analyse and judge each tea. It’s quite a sight! www.yorkshiretea.co.uk
Biffa is aiming to achieve zero waste to landfill throughout all of its local partnerships in Yorkshire. Working with companies such as Seabrook Crisps, True Reds Barbeque, Weetwood Hall Hotel & Conference facility and Harratts Group, Biffa has implemented schemes to increase recycling rates and divert waste away from
landfill. In doing so, Biffa hopes that all visitors in the Yorkshire region will contribute to a ‘greener’ stay. www.biffa.co.uk
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WHAT'S NEW?
© Steve Race
A Majestic Opportunity
going wild
Steve Race, Education Officer at RSPB Bempton Cliffs, has been recognised in a prestigious world-wide photography competition run by the Natural History Museum and BBC Wildlife magazine. Steve has received a commendation in The Wildlife Photographer of the Year with an image of Bempton Cliff 's famous gannets. www.rspb.org.uk
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When you think of Ginetta, the first thing that comes to mind would be racing cars and not luxury clothing. But that’s exactly what they have branched out into with Ginetta Lifestyle. Each garment is one of 50. The clothes, created by Laura Tomlinson, are designed to represent Ginetta's racing ethos and heritage, with vintage-look sewn in labels that bear the Ginetta logo, and on the G2 Waxed Parker there is even a metal ‘VIN’ style plate with information about the coat pressed into it. www.ginettalifestyle.com
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The iconic Grade II listed former Majestic cinema in Leeds City Square has been redeveloped by Rushbond Plc to create prime leisure accommodation, with a roof top external trading area. www.majesticleeds.co.uk
Peppa inspired products One of the most well-loved children’s preschool properties, Peppa Pig now adds her unique brand of fun into the kitchen with these fantastic baking mixes. www.symingtons.com
Liquid Colour Floor Tiles This is a high-technology, dynamic floor tiling system. Fluid within the tile creates individual patterns and effects that present a unique design. With a range of colours and styles, this innovative system is ideal for highlighting an area or making a bold statement. www.laveronline.co.uk
Jackson's rising range Delicious Jackson's ‘Teacakes’ packed with great fruity flavours, making the perfect anytime snack, are now exclusively available in selected ASDA stores across Yorkshire. www.jacksonschampionbread.co.uk
100 The Alhambra Theatre celebrates it's centenary this year. Regarded as the North's premier touring venue, this Grade II listed building was opened by theatre impresario Francis Laidler who already owned two music halls in Bradford. Today the Alhambra Theatre hosts the best in large scale entertainment. www.bradford-theatres.co.uk
THE GRAND FROMAGE
Yorkshire family-run company Cryer & Stott Cheesemongers Ltd are passionate about making cheese and supporting other Yorkshire cheesemakers and producers. They are highly regarded as one of the leading cheesemongers in the country, based in Yorkshire. They designed and supplied cheese platters for the 2012 Olympics, and following on from this, in 2013, they supplied cheese to the Queen's annual garden party at Buckingham Palace. France is an icon when it comes to artisan cheese. The Grand Fromage Départ is Cryer & Stott’s journey through France, travelling through villages and towns with a Yorkshire twist. Starting with Lille (Lille is twinned with Leeds) and sourcing such wonders as 'Little Stinker', a pungent beer-washed cheese made close to the town, eventually working their way down to the Pyrenees and visiting six other cheese producers along the way. www.cryerandstott.co.uk
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MORE NEWS
Bradford wins Curry Capital Crown for 3rd year running! Bradford is celebrating after winning the Curry Capital Crown for 2013 and being the first city to clinch the title for three consecutive years. Bradford's bid included the creation of a limited edition curry flavoured crisp, developed by local company Seabrook and Bradford restaurant Akbar's. www.seabrookcrisps.com
Hotel in heart of city Sheffield’s newest hotel, the Hampton by Hilton, is opening this spring and will have a Marco Pierre White endorsed New York Italian restaurant with 100 covers at the side. The former West Bar police station will be a modern and contemporary hotel offering 142 stylish bedrooms, a spacious meeting room and excellent amenities. www.hamptonbyhilton.com
Training Talent In September 2013, Leeds City College opened its Printworks Campus in the former Alf Cooke Printworks in Leeds, turning a once world-famous industrial landmark into a hub for emerging talent.
Meet & Greet With its stately entrance hall and immaculate grounds, Bowcliffe Hall in Bramham near Wetherby is the perfect choice for a special celebration. Due for completion this summer, the hall is building an innovative centre for meetings and events in its grounds. The design of 'The Blackburn Wing', which will appear to be floating in the treeline, honours aircraft pioneer and previous Bowcliffe owner Robert Blackburn. www.bowcliffehall.co.uk
Get on your bike Three Ilkley cyclists have launched a range of cycle-wear to encourage people whatever their weight or fitness abilities to take to the road without feeling uncomfortable in unflattering and tight-fitting clothing. The company - Fat Lad At The Back - has designed garments that look as good on larger sizes as they do on the pro peloton. www.fatladattheback.com
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Onsite restaurant and hair and beauty salons provide students with the opportunity to gain hands-on commercial experience, while serving customers in a unique setting. The deli shop sells a range of hand-prepared cuts of meat and speciality products as well as freshly baked breads and cakes created onsite. The restaurant, The Food Academy at Printworks, offers an exciting menu. Even the signature coffee is provided by Leeds’s first coffee micro-roastery - North Star Micro Roasters in Meanwood. www.leedscitycollege.ac.uk
CLEAN COUNTY
Yorkshire’s famed food and drink suppliers will benefit from Yorkshire company AESSEAL leading the way in making improvements to food hygiene standards. Rotherham based AESSEAL plc has developed an ingenious and unique solution for cleaning normally difficult to access parts. Called ‘EASYCLEAN’, the bottom of the vessel can be detached to allow access for cleaning and inspection. AESSEAL said, “Manufacturers want to clean their productionline – the problem was simply that they could never fully open this equipment. Our product is a simple and effective solution to this issue”. www.aesseal.com 13
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OUTDOORS
Taste of the Wild The chalk cliffs around Flamborough – the highest in Britain – offer panoramic views and great birdwatching, while the sea is full of shipwrecks and seals. Kevin Rushby experiences towering cliffs, by foot and by boat.
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lamborough is just a few miles south of Scarborough but doesn't have the crowds. The beach is deserted when I get down there, but the cliffs are alive: thousands of nesting guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes in constant motion as they feed their young. I catch a flash of red and yellow as a puffin comes barrelling in from the sea, its beak crammed with tiny silver fish. A few minutes later, out of the sea mist and drizzle, a boat appears from around the cliff, a big, wooden vessel without a cabin, bearing two men in oilskins and a stack of creel. They drive on to logs laid on the coarse sand, then lower a ladder. A brawny, weathered hand reaches out. This is Mike Emmerson, skipper of the Summer Rose, a traditional Yorkshire coble (fishing boat), and, I've been told, the best man to reveal a magical lost corner of England: the cliffs, sea stacks and caves around East Yorkshire's Flamborough Head. "We'll get you out there," he says as I land on deck, not entirely gracefully. "It's been a bit scuffly, but it's settling." Mike is full of the arcane language of Yorkshire seafaring. "Scuffly", he explains, is a sea condition a little better than "jowly". "We don't want jowly – that's not pleasant."
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Clockwise from top left: A great family day out. The chalk cliffs around Flamborough. The history of fishing out of North Landing can be traced back to the 13th century. The Flamborough Head Lighthouse.
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Top to bottom: Mike Emmerson's boat, The Summer Rose. More than 200,000 birds from April to August make the cliffs seem alive.
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On clear days the gannets can be seen plunging into the water all around the boat, but it seems I've arrived just after lunch and only the puffins and guillemots are diving for sand eels.
© Steve Race
I've long enjoyed walking around Flamborough, loving the magnificent chalk cliffs and usually remarking on how few people are around. Just a few miles south of the crowds on Scarborough sands, the cliffs rear up to a 10-mile stretch of world-class coastal scenery. Quite why the area has not achieved wider recognition is a mystery: in Bridlington in winter you can walk all day here, above the raging seas, and never see another human being. And in summer, at low tide, coves like Thornwick Bay and North Landing are magical for children, with rock pools, caves and archways. Having seen it from land, however, I was keen to view it from the sea. Mike's crewman, Bob Coates, jumps aboard, the propeller is engaged, and we edge back out to sea and sail south towards the headland of Flamborough. Bob points out Breil Nook, an imposing bulwark of rock that juts out from the cliffs. To one side is a sea stack, Queen Rock, and the remnants of a second, King Rock, that was knocked over in a storm 50 years ago. We sidle closer to the cliff face, the screech and clatter of birds drowning out the engine. Before the lighthouse was built in 1806, the sound of birds was the only warning sailors had of these treacherous cliffs – those at nearby Bempton are the highest in Britain, at over 100m. The warning came too late for many – the seabed is littered with wrecks, among them the Bonhomme Richard, which fought the British off Flamborough in 1779. Its captain, John Paul Jones, a Scot in a French-owned ship fighting for the American Revolution, managed the feat of winning a sea battle while losing his vessel. Despite intensive searches, no trace of this wreck has been found. Mike eases our boat close up under the cliffs and then, with consummate skill, nips inside one of them. "On foot there are plenty of caves you can get into at low tide and explore," he tells me. "But watch out for the seals – they don't like it!" We reverse out and turn north to Bempton, where the jagged rock face is salted with the white shapes of around 22,000 gannets – a tenth of the total bird population at this time of year. "Flamborough folk used to eat a lot of sea birds," says Mike. "Not now." On clear days the gannets can be seen plunging into the water all around the boat, but it seems I've arrived just after lunch and only the puffins and guillemots are diving for the finger-length sand eels that make the local ecosystem tick. "We see a lot of porpoise," says Mike, "but you'd be lucky to spot dolphins and whales – they're much further out." From the cliff top, however, walkers do report seeing basking sharks and whales. At Whitby, 30 miles north, a minke whale once entertained August bank holiday crowds for several hours, and sightings are on the increase, especially of larger species like fin, sei, humpback and sperm whales. Sadly, the few that do get stranded are normally cordoned off by police tape, then dragged away to a landfill site. Back on the Summer Rose we chug offshore and lift a few creel to discover a horde of edible crab and a brace of cod who have got stuck in there too. Everything gets measured and either returned to sea or thrown in buckets.
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Foraging in Staithes
Top to bottom: Foraging along the coastline. Staithes has the air of a place lost in time. Collecting veg for dinner.
Artists have long been attracted to the picturesque village of Staithes but now it’s adding a new string to its bow. Few realise that this is the place to find some of the best edible seaweed in the UK, there’s luxury lobster in abundance and the shoreline is a rockpool foragers’ dream. In fact the succulent seafood is so good, Chris and Rose Bax set up courses there six years ago to teach visitors where and how to forage for this delicious free food. Chris, who describes himself as a passionate chef with the practical skills of a boy scout, set up Taste the Wild to promote wild foods as exciting ingredients. Courses are run on the coast and through woodland and Staithes is a real favourite spot. “If you know what you’re doing and where to look, a foraging trip to Staithes is so good, you can return with a whole meal,” said Chris. It’s wellies on and a 9.30am start for groups of up to 12 who can explore the expanse of rock pools exposed once the tide goes out – without getting wet. “There’s always Oarweed to make Kelp crisps or Laver to make laverbread, many people don’t realise how tasty seaweed is and it adds so much texture and nutrition to seafood broths and dishes,” says Chris. The hunt is then on for shellfish like winkles and limpets as well as the delicious Velvet swimmer crab, which largely only makes its way to the table in Spain. “It’s delicious but we don’t often eat it in the UK, so it gets exported from Staithes to Madrid where it’s popular.” After exploring the rock pools, it’s time to hunt lobster – either from the shore in low tide or by fishing from a boat using lobster pots. “There’s all the doom and gloom surrounding the sustainability of our fishing industry but off the north east coast, the lobster fishery is a real success story. There are plenty of these delicious shellfish which means that catching them is pretty easy with the correct gear and a valid licence.” Armed with seaweed, lobster, shellfish and crab, it’s then a hike up to the coastal paths snaking around Staithes which is right on the Cleveland Way. “The paths are rife with greens and wild herbs which add the finishing touches to a perfect dish,” said Chris. “Once we’ve collected our wild foods, we head back to cook up a delicious meal. It’s the north Yorkshire coast on a plate!”
Essential experience For more information go to www.tastethewild.co.uk One Day Coastal Foraging Course: £70.00. Two Day Coastal Foraging & Fishing Course: £265.00pp based on two sharing (accommodation included).
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Š Visit Hull and East Yorkshire
ARTISTIC
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Main picture: Family days out at Flamborough Lighthouse. Right from top: Queue up to have a go at fishing. Pete Hewitt's Puffin. Dramatic skies at Flamborough. A pair of Gannets.
"We've done all right for crab this year. The late spring has affected the sea," explains Mike. "Normally we'd be seeing crab give way to lobster by now and mackerel coming in. But everything is late – even the puffins would [normally] be gone by now." It's an important point: everything here is governed by wind, tide and temperature. Sudden changes can bring rare birds from Scandinavia or even further afield. The cliffs are a twitcher's paradise. When a Baikal teal from the far east of Russia appeared in mid-April, it caused a stampede of camouflage binos and multipocketed vests. (The sighting was at a bird hide at North Cliff Marsh, Flamborough.) The cliff path between Bempton RSPB reserve and Bridlington
We clearly have differing levels of jigging skill: Bob soon hooks two codling, then a coalfish. I start to feel the pressure: I've sworn I'll go home with a fish for dinner, but I've never been lucky at the sport. I'm already hearing the jeers of the family when I arrive home empty-handed. has other attractions as well as birdwatching. At Sewerby Rocks, for example, just north of Bridlington, is a beach strewn with strange round stones neatly pierced by penny-sized holes – perfect for a bit of impromptu beach sculpture. Nearby is Danes Dyke, ancient earthworks that once made Flamborough an impregnable fortress; it's now a lovely nature reserve. On the boat it's time for us to put out some fishing lines, which proves relatively simple. "Drop the line till you feel it bounce on the bottom," says Bob. "Then just jig it around a bit." We do this, but clearly with differing levels of jigging skill: Bob soon hooks two codling, then a coalfish. I start to feel the pressure: I've sworn I'll go home with a fish for dinner, but I've never been lucky at the sport. Mike leaves the tiller and chucks out another line; within seconds he's pulling in a coalfish. The coffee is finished and all the sandwiches are gone. I'm already hearing the jeers of the family when I arrive home empty-handed. It really is time to pack up, but I jig relentlessly, and hopefully, until finally there's a bite and I haul in a decent-sized coalfish… only for it to drop off in the air and swim away. Mike pushes the bucket of cod towards me. "Here… you can say you caught these. I won't tell."
Great days out Mike Emmerson and his cousin Richard run summer fishing, birdwatching and pleasure trips from North Landing. Boats leave about 1pm, but call first on 01262 850905 or 01262 850575. Half-hour trips £5 adults, £2.50 kids; three-hour fishing trips (with rod and bait) £15. For other excursions, see Yorkshire Wildlife Trust. The original version of this feature appeared in The Guardian.
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WELCOME TO YORK
HISTORY HEAVEN
Main picture: York Minster Below: The magnificent Castle Howard. Opposite page clockwise from top left: Shopping in the Shambles. Clifford's Tower in springtime. Discover the history of the Vikings in York.
York is celebrated the world over for its colourful history, charming architecture, cosmopolitan cafĂŠ culture and Roman, Viking, and Medieval heritage. The city is an exciting mixture of old and new, with world-class museums, impressive ancient ramparts, and great family attractions.
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sounds and smells of an authentically recreated Viking city as it stood over 1,000 years ago at JORVIK Viking Centre, before embarking on one of the seven evening ghost walks. Alternatively, simply stroll along the longest medieval city walls in England and enjoy the ambience of ‘Britain’s most beautiful city’, as voted in an independent survey by Bing in 2011. York has a busy programme of year-round events. 2014 will be the 30th anniversary of the JORVIK Viking Festival, an awesome recreation of Norse life. In Easter, those with a sweet tooth should flock to the Chocolate Festival for an indulgent celebration of York's chocolate history. A cultural highlight of the summer is the medieval cycle of York Mystery Plays, or get your brain in to gear at the Festival of Ideas at the University of York, followed in September by the York Food and Drink Festival. The city lights up in autumn for the 10th anniversary of Illuminating York, followed closely by the Aesthethica Short Film Festival, a celebration of independent film from across the York truly is the home of chocolate and all over the city are echoes of York's chocolate past. Follow the York Chocolate Trail and discover how chocolate shaped York, and enjoy delicious themed cafés and individual chocolate shops around the city. As one of Europe's largest pedestrian zones, you’re never more than a short walk from one of York's awe inspiring sights or attractions. York can keep even the most determined sightseer occupied for weeks or for those with just a couple of days to spare, there are a handful of places that really should not be missed. First stop has to be York Minster, the largest gothic cathedral in Northern Europe and housing some of the world's greatest treasures. Next stop is a fantastic free day out for the whole family at the National Railway Museum, where you can discover over 300 years of rail history, followed by the new exhibition about WWI at York Castle Museum launching in June or a visit to the Yorkshire Air Museum, situated on the former World War II RAF Bomber Command Station at Elvington near York. Delve into York's bloody history at York Dungeon, which brings together an amazing cast of theatrical actors, special effects, stages and scenes in a truly unique walkthrough experience. Discover the sights,
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Essential experiences 1
Revealing York Minster in the Undercroft - a 2000year journey through interactive chambers beneath York Minster.
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York Pass See more of York for less. Access over 30 top attractions and tours, restaurants and shopping offers.
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Clifford’s Tower A symbol of the power of England's medieval kings. Built by William the Conqueror.
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York Castle Museum offers you the chance to stroll down an authentically recreated Victorian Street.
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The National Railway Museum A free day out for the whole family, where you can discover over 300 years of rail history.
world. Winter brings one of the most popular Christmas markets in the UK, the St Nicholas Fayre. Following Welcome to Yorkshire’s successful bid to host the 2014 Tour de France, stage two of the Grand Départ will be hosted in York on 6th July 2014. As a world-famous cycling city, York is proud to provide a stunning backdrop. For shopaholics, the York Designer Outlet provides an ideal opportunity to bag some bargain designer clothes. In the city centre itself you’ll find shops with character, with everything from high street stores to unusual boutiques, cafés and restaurants and a plethora of antiques shops. With world-class food and wine on offer, eating out in York is always a memorable gastronomic experience. Whether you're looking for a romantic restaurant, family friendly pub or inviting street café, you'll be spoilt for choice. When the lights go down, the city bursts into life with amazing continental style winebars, riverside terraces and real ale pubs. Look out for Andrew Pern’s new venture The Star Inn the City, on the banks of the River Ouse. Accommodation in York is as diverse as every other aspect of the city. Relax in stunning 5-star luxury or make friends in a welcoming guesthouse. And from central apartments to period properties, York’s self-catering accommodation provides an ideal base for you to explore from. At the magnificent Castle Howard, share stories of the house, family and collections, take a short drive to Ampleforth Abbey, home to a community of Benedictine monks since 1802 or visit the fine stately home of Newburgh Priory, with views to the White Horse of Kilburn.
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Clockwise from top: The colourful Skipton Market. Holy Trinity Church. Skipton's popular and picturesque canal.
YOU'LL LOVE SKIPTON! Skipton is everything you could wish for from a lively Yorkshire town; a grand medieval castle, award winning high street, bustling market, welcoming pubs and restaurants, intriguing museums, traditional festivals, boutique shopping, country walks, high quality accommodation and friendly folk.
Over 900 years old, you're free to explore every historic nook and cranny; peek into the Banqueting Hall, and roam around the Kitchen and Bedchamber. Take a walk down the alleyways leading off the High Street and you will find Skipton’s colourful canal basin, where visitors can take a ride with Pennine Boat Trips or Pennine Cruisers on the Leeds & Liverpool canal. Boats are available to hire for the day or you can enjoy a simple hour’s trip! In the past, Skipton has beaten the likes of Portobello Road and Kensington High Street to win Britain's Best Street of the Year - so a big thumbs up for shopping lovers! On cobblestones from a bygone age, market stalls run the full length of the High Street every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. The shops are an enviable mix of unique independents and famous brand names. The beautiful Victorian indoor arcade Craven Court, Victoria Square which leads to Coach Street and the Canal Basin and the historic High Corn Mill with its home-style shopping and restored waterwheel, are just some examples waiting to be explored. The town offers a wide selection of dining options from acclaimed restaurants to award winning fish and chips, such as Bizzie Lizzie’s. Whether you prefer an intimate bistro or a busy pub with real ale and home-cooked food, there is plenty to choose from every night of the week. Finish off the evening at The Mart Theatre, the world's only theatre residing in a working Auction Market! Selling cows and sheep through the week, it’s transformed at the weekend into a venue providing professional theatre shows, including stand-up comedy, music and drama. The Gateway to the Dales has it all.
Don't miss out Rightly known as ‘The Gateway to the Dales’, Skipton could just as easily become your introduction to the best of Yorkshire life. Washington DC, Stratford-uponAvon, London and now Skipton. Shakespeare’s First Folio, was confirmed as one of only 49 surviving first folios in Britain, and it’s on public display at Craven Museum. With exhibitions, events and workshops all year round,
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it’s a perfect place to rediscover part of Skipton’s history. A great location makes the town a key destination for any visitor planning their next break in Yorkshire, and an ideal base for magnificent walking, riding and cycling holidays. Take a walk in the magical Skipton Castle Woods, a woodland haven by one of Britain’s best preserved medieval castles, Skipton Castle.
A largely undiscovered gem, Skipton has all the ingredients for a memorable visit. Go to www.welcometoskipton.com or call 01756 792809 for a free guide.
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WELCOME TO THE NORTH YORK MOORS
Clockwise from top left: Picnic at Rievaulx Abbey. Cycling in Dalby. The North Yorkshire Moors Railway at Grosmont.
NATURAL BEAUTY Essential experiences 1 Top left: © Chris J Parker. Top right: © Joolz Diamond - Dalby Bike Barn. Essential experience images from top: © Discovery Photography, Chris J Parker, Lord Stones, Tracey Phillips.
Moor to Sea Cycle Network Enjoy over 150 miles of quiet lanes and forest tracks providing you with fabulous views.
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Castle Howard Magnificent 18th century stately home with extensive grounds and lakeside adventure playground. Lord Stones Country Park The legendary café has reopened, now with camping pods and a farm shop.
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Ryedale Folk Museum Keeping bygone crafts and rural trades alive and celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2014.
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Dalby Forest The new improved Ellerburn Trail and Tree Top Junior from Go Ape! launches at Easter 2014.
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With wide sweeping heather moorland, ancient woodland and historic sites, the North York Moors National Park is as spectacular and diverse as it is unspoilt. The North York Moors is one of 15 National Parks, the UK’s premier countryside destinations, with their special mix of landscape, heritage and cultural traditions. Just 20 miles or so north of York, it's home to the largest expanse of heather moorland in England. An enchanting place all year, in late summer the heather flushes purple creating a truly magnificent sight. Along the Heritage coastline there are sheltered bays, picture-postcard fishing villages and cliffs with breathtaking views. This beautiful place is a haven for all sorts of wildlife, including curlew, lapwing, golden plover and merlin. There’s plenty of fascinating heritage and history too, from Roman encampments to a collection of ancient stone crosses and waymarkers. The beautiful valleys have inspired monastic communities for centuries, as well as people looking for tranquillity. Renowned for its atmospheric ruins, Rievaulx Abbey, Byland Abbey and Mount Grace Priory are well worth discovering. There are plenty of ways to explore the area. You can walk, cycle, glide,
ride a horse, climb, surf, sail or just sit back and take it all in. Take your pick from 1,400 miles of paths, including anything from a short circular stroll up to a 110 mile hike along the Cleveland Way National Trail. Enjoy the neighbouring Howardian Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty by bike on three circular day rides. Catch the Esk Valley Railway as it winds a scenic journey to Whitby linking many moorland villages. Follow in the steps of TV and film heroes with a visit to Brideshead Revisited’s Castle Howard or Goathland, home of Heartbeat and Hogsmeade in the first Harry Potter film. Pick up the North Yorkshire Moors Railway here for a nostalgic and scenic journey. The Moors National Park Centre on the outskirts of Danby offers visitors adventure play areas, riverside trails, a café and a beautiful contemporary gallery. Over at Sutton Bank National Park Centre, soak up "England's finest view" on easy walking trails or head out on two wheels from Sutton Bank Bikes along the new spectacular cliff edge family cycling route.
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HERITAGE
THE OLDER THE BETTER Hull will be the City of Culture in 2017. The Old Town and its Ale Trail provided Dave Lee with a great reason to rediscover the city.
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W
hen Philip Larkin said of Hull that it is a city that presents you with ‘sudden elegancies’ - he could (and may well) have been describing the Old Town. Hull has an unfairly maligned recent image. Certainly the harsh effects of World War II and subsequent decades of injudicious town planning left much of the town centre with peculiar and often ungainly architecture, but much of the Old Town – which is a series of handsome streets along the banks of the River Hull has been virtually untouched for a couple of centuries, much of it for far longer. It’s a part of the city with a unique atmosphere. There are cobbled streets, elegant townhouses and most of Hull’s many free museums are to be found here. Recently there has been much interest in the burgeoning Ale Trail that snakes through the Old Town. So as well as quenching your thirst, you can experience real history and get a taste for the exciting way the city is developing. These days, Hull is home to a generation of artists, authors, film-makers and other arty types, mainly in their 30s and 40s, who are simply too young to remember the city as it was. They know little or nothing of the fishing industry and are simply determined to mould their home city into one they are proud to live in, rather than the troubled town they inherited. This means there is a vibrant and inclusive theatre, art and writing scene. Plays are staged in office blocks, poems are carved into the streets and people now get to know Hull because it is the setting for dozens of novels written by local authors. This nationally recognised creativity is tangible in the air and can be found all over the city. Any social historian will tell you that wherever there has ever been a nascent artistic scene there have been brewers and hoteliers happy to accommodate it practitioners. Consequently, it’s now virtually impossible to walk into a pub in the Old Town and not spill your pint on a novelist, film-maker or playwright, usually sat in a huddle, planning their next escapade. It may be no coincidence that the Old Town is on the river’s left bank.
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Main image: Beautiful architecture in Hull's Old Town. Clockwise from top right: Explore listed buildings down Bishop Lane. A stone circle in Hull's cobbled streets. Discover superb ship models at the Maritime Museum.
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All images © Visit Hull and East Yorkshire
Top to bottom: Ye Olde Black Boy pub dates back to 1729. Award winning Ferens Art Gallery. Hull's unique Museums Quarter.
Oddly, the renaissance of the Old Town was enabled by the recent success of another part of the city. Since the turn of the millennium, the Avenues area has been the scene of an amazing boozy blossoming – dozens of bars and eateries have been opened along Princes Ave and adjoining Newland Ave, all of them independent and all owned and operated by Hull residents. Spurred on, some would-be bar owners who couldn’t find a foothold on the Avenues looked to the then-quiet town centre for locations to open their ventures. Within a couple of years old pubs were brought back to life and new pubs appeared. These pubs now constitute the Hull Ale Trail and they provide as fine a way as I can think of to while away a day. Some of the old pubs can claim some quite incredible history. Ye Olde Black Boy, for instance, has changed little since it was one of the regular haunts of slavery abolitionist William Wilberforce, whose home is within staggering distance and is now a museum in his honour. The name of the pub, incidentally, has nothing to do with the slave trade, rather it was named after the monotone logo of a Virginia tobacco company whose goods were traded in the front room of the pub, which served as a tobacco merchant. With an even greater claim to notoriety is another pub where – get this – the English Civil War started! Not your average Tuesday night out, that one. Most notable amongst the new pubs are Walters, which is a former restaurant refitted with (at last count) 27 beer pumps along the bar. Each pump represents a different real ale or cider and so formidable is the sight that when I took a CAMRA member friend of mine from West Yorkshire in for a swift half an audible gasp was heard to escape his normally sceptical lips. Further up the street, sister pub the Lion & Key has another 20-odd choices of hand pumped beers. Quite overwhelming, really. Probably my favourite of the new pubs (and of the whole ale trail, come to that) is Wm. Hawkes, a positively Dickensian two-room hostelry on Scale Lane which would have appeared to have altered not a jot in at least 150 years, but which has only actually been open for about 18 months and was previously a printers workshop. Such is the confidence and brio of the New Hull Publicans that they think nothing of taking a building apparently utterly unsuited to public use and turning it into a pub so seemingly historic that it took me a full half hour to convince one punter that it hadn’t been open since 1872. Along with the new pubs has come the new breweries. You may well have heard of Wold Top (which brews a few miles up the road near Bridlington) as they now distribute across the whole of the UK, but a Great Newsome Brewery ale recently won Best Beer at the World Beer Awards and there is the award winning vegan nano-brewery Brass Castle in Pocklington. The town’s fruit market also now has the Great Yorkshire Brewery, churning out beer made with hops grown in Yorkshire’s only hop farm just up the road in Brough. With Hull’s annual beer festival now being held in the glorious Holy Trinity church, even the establishment have joined the the residents in embracing the boozy delights now available throughout the city and everyone is revelling in Yorkshire’s latest and possibly most exciting Ale Trail. Frankly, you’d be daft not to join them. To find out more go to www.yorkshire.com/heritage
Clockwise from bottom left: Hands on History Museum. All-aboard, the Streetlife Museum. Museum of Club Culture. Roman Mosaics at the Hull & East Riding Museum of Archaeology. Maritime Museum. Tram signage, Streetlife Museum.
Pleasures of the past Whether you love rediscovering past times or you simply adore fascinating experiences, this city’s wealth of free museums will keep you enthralled. Maritime Museum Check out the whaler’s craft of scrimshaw, marvel at the fleet of incredible detailed ship models and impressive artefacts. Oh, and don’t miss the full-sized whale skeleton. Arctic Corsair Step aboard Hull’s last sidewinder trawler. Real crewmen take you on a unique guided tour, with tales of outstanding heroism in the treacherous Icelandic fishing grounds. Hull & East Riding Museum of Archaeology See how you measure up to a lifesized woolly mammoth. Then wander through an Iron Age village, explore an arsenal of Iron Age weapons and discover a horde of Viking treasure. Hands on History Museum Prepare for a fascinating glimpse into Victorian Hull. Then travel back in time in the Egyptian Gallery, home to a 2,600-year-old mummy and replicas of King Tutankhamun’s treasures. Streetlife Museum of Transport Clamber aboard a real tram and hurtle 200 years back in transport history. Then engage your senses with the sights, sounds and smells of a bygone era as you stroll down a 1940s high street.
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different experiences in one day at the World Heritage Site of Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal. There’s a surprise around every corner in the elegant Georgian water gardens, while the contrasting abbey ruins are steeped in medieval history. Walking is one of the best ways to explore the countryside. You can often stumble across something really special, like Janet’s Foss waterfall, near Malham or the limestone pavements at Upper Wharfedale, both in the Yorkshire Dales – just make sure you have your camera ready. Royals: Then and Now. New portrait display at Beningbrough Hall.
This year Yorkshire will be seen by millions worldwide as the Grand Départ sweeps through the county and past some fantastic National Trust places. If you’re visiting then, or any other season, we’ve got some great things for you to see and do. From 1 March, see major contemporary Royal portraits from the National Portrait Gallery collection at Beningbrough Hall, Gallery & Gardens. The display, Royals: Then and Now, includes the dashing painting of Prince William and Prince Harry by Nicky Philipps and looks at portraits of our royal family today in the context of their predecessors. If you’re looking to pack lots into your Yorkshire holiday, you can enjoy two very
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One of the best views you can get across Yorkshire is from Brimham Rocks. On a clear day you can see for miles. There are 470 rock climbs, some very easy some much harder, so you can choose just how adventurous you want to be.
Explore every season In spring, see bright displays of tulips at Treasurer’s House. In summer, pitch your tent and camp out in the wild at one of our pop-up campsites in Brimham Rocks, Hardcastle Crags or the Yorkshire Dales. In autumn, look out the variety of fungi at Hardcastle Crags – it’s everywhere! In winter, take a crisp stroll along the riverside walk at East Riddlesden Hall or experience a 1920s Christmas at Nunnington Hall.
If the Grand Départ has given you cycle fever, like it has us, pop in to Nostell Priory & Parkland. Borrow a bike, or bring your own and explore 121 hectares of peaceful trails on the freedom of two wheels.
The National Trust is a registered charity no.205846 Photography: Fountains Abbey ©National Trust Images/John Millar; © HRH Prince William, Duke of Cambridge; HRH Prince Harry by Nicola Jane (‘Nicky’) Philipps © National Portrait Gallery, London; Mountain biking at Malham ©National Trust Images/Ben Selway
love new discoveries
Find your escape this year www.nationaltrust.org.uk/yorkshire Stay in our holiday cottages or campsites www.nationaltrust.org.uk/yorkshire/places-to-stay Like us at www.facebook.com/NTYorkshire Follow us @NTYorkshire 37
EXPERIENCE WAKEFIELD
ART & SOUL The city of Wakefield was recently named by The Telegraph as one of the ‘Top 20 arty places to live’. However, dig a little deeper and you’ll find it’s not just the big galleries that are pulling in the crowds.
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Wakefield is at the heart of the Yorkshire Sculpture Triangle, an area in Yorkshire shared with nearby Leeds, showcasing the work of over 200 artists across four iconic venues. The city is the birthplace of the internationally acclaimed sculptor Barbara Hepworth, whose family lent her name to the gallery, which opened in 2011 to celebrate her legacy, The Hepworth Wakefield. So far, over a million visitors have enjoyed The Hepworth Wakefield’s changing exhibition programme, events and permanent collections. The gallery recently expanded with the unveiling of The Calder, a new exhibition space located in a 19th century former textile mill, adjacent to the original building. Look out for free guided tours each Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday and annual events such as the Summer BBQ. The nearby Yorkshire Sculpture Park is a one of a kind open air gallery, a leading international centre for modern and contempary art. Explore open-air displays by some of the world’s finest artists, enjoy fascinating exhibitions throughout four stunning galleries, be inspired by the natural beauty of an historic estate, and get involved in a dynamic line up of events and activities. Walk down through the Country Park (mind the sheep!) where you will see many works by another international locally born artist, Henry Moore. The gallery team lead guided walks each weekend to help you interpret the works in the landscape
and the hidden secrets of the historic Bretton estate & lakes. If you prefer to discover art and culture in surprising and undiscovered places then there are plenty of opportunities to explore. Last year, Wood Street Market, an eclectic and laid back community arts market took the city by surprise, with three dates across the summer months, keep a look out for more dates in 2014. Wakefield Art Walk, held six times a year, offers visitors the chance of meeting artists at many unusual buildings in the city including chapels, churches and even a solicitors office! And, can you mention Wakefield without rhubarb? The annual Wakefield Festival of Food, Drink and Rhubarb is held each February over three days, when the city is turned into ‘Rhubarbados!’ In the spirit of ‘DIY Culture’ try Long Division Music Festival with 70 bands playing venues across the city. Alongside local bands and national icons, the festival also includes a laid back Sunday, packed with poetry, film and exhibitions. In July, the music continues with Yorkshire’s longest running free music festival, Clarence Park while each Friday, Wakefield Jazz continues to entertain music lovers in a small unassuming sports club just outside the city. www.experiencewakefield.co.uk Follow us @expwakefield
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Wakefield Lit Fest For writers, poets, artists and anyone who loves books, held each September.
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Wild Swimming Book to go wild swimming with the National Trust at Nostell Priory or try your hand at canoeing in the lakes.
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Champagne Cream Tea Book afternoon cream tea at Walton Hall, a Georgian mansion set on an island, on a lake.
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Make Light Work Neon Workshops offer a chance to create your own neon art. Courses run all year round.
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Go Underground Descend 140m under the surface at the National Coal Mining Museums extended underground tour.
Main picture: The Hepworth Plasters, The Hepworth Wakefield. Below left to right: The spectacular Clarence Park Festival. Anthony Gormley, One and Other, Yorkshire Sculpture Park. Underground fun at The National Coal Mining Museum for England. Wakefield becomes 'Rhubarbados' in February.
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ARTISTIC
Art Attack Sarah Freeman gets to the art of the city in Sheffield.
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Yorkshire Artspace is designed to give artist’s their first step up, offering affordable studio space alongside business mentoring and exhibition opportunities.
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with the public. Needless to say, it’s an event preceded by a lot of last minute tidying as floors are swept and work benches cleared. “It does feel slightly odd to suddenly have people walking around your studio,” says ceramic artist Emilie Taylor who began her career five years ago in the Work’s starter studio. It’s designed to give young artists their first step up, offering affordable studio space alongside business mentoring and exhibition opportunities. Crucially it also allowed Emilie the time and space to develop her style, which turns the idea of ceramic decoration on its head. In her studio a couple are pointing and laughing at the vases lined up on the worktop. It’s the kind of reaction which would send some artists into a terminal decline. Not Emilie. She is used to her work, which combines design elements of the arts and crafts movement with images of pigeon fanciers and Sheffield council estates, raising a smile. “My family have lived in this area for hundreds of years, so I guess it was always going to inspire my work,” she says. “My dad has pigeons, my grandma grew up on a council estate and I just liked the idea of subverting traditional design. I want to create work which makes people do a double take.” While some artists spend their entire careers searching for recognition, Emilie sold one of her very first works to
Images © Nigel Barker and Our Favourite Places (www.ourfaveplaces.co.uk).
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irst a fact (well, sort of). Sheffield is home to more artists than anywhere else in England outside London. No one seems entirely sure when the count was done or even if there has been an official census. Nevertheless it’s a claim often repeated and one backed up by much persuasive evidence. For a start, Sheffield Hallam University is one of the oldest established art and design institutions in the UK, there’s a gallery on pretty much every street corner and thanks to Yorkshire Artspace a number of redundant buildings have also been turned into affordable studios. One of the most well established is Persistence Works. It may not look much from the outside, but if you get a chance to step over the threshold and through the shop selling work by local designers then do. Inside is an artistic menagerie where illustrators work next to silversmiths and jewellery makers and where traditional crafts sit alongside more experimental designs. It’s been this way ever since Persistence Works opened in 2001 and with room for up to 70 artists it is one of the city’s most creative hubs. For much of the time the artists keep themselves to themselves, but each year an open studios weekend brings them and their designs face to face
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Images © Nigel Barker and Our Favourite Places (www.ourfaveplaces.co.uk).
Clockwise from top left: Eddy Dreadnought in his studio at Knutton Road Studios. Ceramics in Penny Withers' studio at Persistence Works. Seiko Kinoshita in her studio at Persistence Works. Sarah Waterhouse's colourful fabric designs.
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the Duke of Devonshire and in so doing fulfilled a long held ambition. “I always fantasised about having one of my vases sat on an antique sideboard in some stately home and before I knew it, it had actually happened. I think it’s just fantastic that a little piece of a Sheffield council estate has ended up in Chatsworth. My work has always been about two worlds colliding and it really doesn’t get better than that.” Thanks to its steel industry, Made in Sheffield became a trademark known the world over, so we probably shouldn’t be too surprised that those creative talents have been joined by more contemporary artists like silversmith Rebecca Joselyn. While some of the methods and equipment are the same as those used by generations of craftspeople, it’s her designs which make people stop and stare, creating bowls which look like empty crisp packets, condiment pots in the shape of sardine tins and desk tidies in homage to old tin cans. It’s about taking the 21st century throwaway culture and recasting it in silver. “I’ve been here eight years now and it’s always been a really supportive environment and that’s vital as an artist. Most of us work alone so knowing there is someone down the corridor or on the next floor who you can ask advice and pick their brains is brilliant. I guess I’ve come a long way in the last eight years and now I’m acting as a mentor for some of the younger artists, it’s my way of giving something back.” Part of Yorkshire Artspace’s philosophy has
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“Most of us work alone so knowing there is someone down the corridor or on the next floor who you can ask advice and pick their brains is brilliant.�
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Images © Nigel Barker and Our Favourite Places (www.ourfaveplaces.co.uk).
always been to take art to overlooked corners of Sheffield, but until recently the organisation which began life in 1977 had focused just on the city centre. However, in 2010 it decided that it was time to look further afield. The fruits of those labours can be seen just a mile and a half away from the city. Developed in partnership with the Green Estate, if Persistence Works is a rabbit warren, then the Manor Oaks studios are altogether more bijou, puncturing any preconceived ideas of the artist suffering for their art in freezing, draughty attic spaces. “The central heating was a big draw and it’s so beautifully quiet,” laughs Susan Disley, a ceramic artist who occupies one half of one of the four large studios. She’s not wrong. Step outside the studio door and it feels like you’re bang in the middle of the countryside; look the other way and across the road is a typical interwar housing estate. “It’s probably not the kind of place most people expect to find artist’s working, but that’s one of the things I like about it,” says Susan, whose work gives a nod to both abstract painting and the sculptures of Henry Moore. “Over the last few years we have become a small community of artists and it feels like the kind of place where we can do really
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good work. I graduated in the 1970s and I know how hard it can be when you are first starting out. It’s notoriously difficult to make a living out of art and you do question whether you are doing the right thing.” Susan shares a kiln with Anne Laycock who has a similarly left-field approach to ceramics. On a bench are various large vessels which look like they have been sculpted out of heavy metal chains. In fact every piece is a ceramic work of art and the one question each of the steady stream of visitors asks is just how on earth she manages to get the soft clay sculptures into a kiln before they collapse. “That is the six million dollar question,” she admits. “It has taken a lot of trial and error and I build each piece from several smaller pieces. It’s a slow process, but then creating art is never about speed.” Like many of the artists who have gravitated towards Sheffield, Susan’s work doesn’t take itself too seriously. It’s a feeling shared by furniture maker Finbarr Lucas. Specialising in wood, over the last few years he has made deliberately sloping shelves, a giant wooden flower to help children learn about the different parts of plants and a toilet
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Clockwise from top left: Sarah Waterhouse's threads. Print by Neil Woodall. Seiko Kinoshita at her loom Jennie Gill in her studio at Persistence Works.
“ It’s a really exciting part of the city. With the market having moved to a new site and plans to demolish the old building it should really open the whole area up. Exchange Place is brilliant for artists, the light is incredible and the fact it overlooks the canal at Victoria Quays gives it a really special feel.” seat which once installed looked as though some rare type of fungi had taken up residence in the bathroom. He’s now well established at Manor Oaks and it’s that kind of security the artists currently moving into Yorkshire Artspace’s newest studios want. We’re back in the heart of the city at the six storey office block once occupied by South Yorkshire Passenger Transport Executive. At the end of last year (2013) the first artists were just moving in to the then rather tired and unloved office block. However, with jewellery designers, conceptual artists and painters having already signed leases on many of the studios, life is definitely being breathed back into the iconic Art Deco building. “It’s a really exciting part of the city,” says Yorkshire Artspace’s Anita Lloyd. “With the market having moved to a new site and plans to demolish the old building it should really open the whole area up. Exchange Place is brilliant for artists, the light is incredible and the fact it overlooks the canal at Victoria Quays gives it a really special feel.” Anita admits it’s a bit of a blank canvas at the moment, but when you’re dealing with artists who like to put their own imprint on their studios that’s a bonus. At the most
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recent open studios event a handful of artists were already making themselves at home, including a man who went only by the name of Mr Raygun. Looking like an extra from a B-movie he was in town to deliver a short lecture on the perils of owning a bit of kit which he insists could take out the entire universe. Rayguns might look like they’ve been cobbled together from old car parts and bits of kitchen blenders, but mess with them at your peril. “If you got shot by this one here you are guaranteed to die at some point in the future,” he says, tongue firmly in cheek. “Press the trigger of this one and the whole of reality will collapse.” Should Mr Raygun’s collection not fall into the wrong hands any time soon and should the world still be turning come November, then this year’s Yorkshire Artspace Open Studio is definitely a date for the diary. Yorkshire art comprises a confident and creative spirit that can be witnessed across the diverse range of art galleries, craft centres, theatres and museums. There's a visual feast just waiting to be discovered. To find out more about the Yorkshire Artspace go to www.artspace.org.uk
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F   ORGING A NEW F   UTURE It's a thriving hub with music, sports and shopping scenes that draw in visitors from miles around and the greenest city in the UK with stunning scenery in every direction. If there's one place that has it all, it's Sheffield.
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WELCOME TO SHEFFIELD
The open and attractive environment of Sheffield City Centre provides a welcoming and interesting experience to visitors. The eclectic mix of architecture often interprets much of the social and industrial heritage of the city, telling the story of the skills and innovation, its people and pastimes. Kelham Island Museum and Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet are key attractions in understanding what made Sheffield great – inventions and heavy industry; craftsmanship and intricate skills in silversmithing. All of these have influenced today’s Sheffield, where the same world class quality threads through the contemporary artists working with precious metals, creating extraordinary tableware and jewellery. A visit to the Millennium Gallery Metalwork Collection is the perfect place to see a sparkling selection of tools of the trades, blades and beautiful artefacts associated with Sheffield. Another modern day twist on craftsmanship in Sheffield can be seen on a visit to Yorkshire Artspace during ‘Open Studios’ events in May and November each year; see over 100 artists and craftspeople in 4 buildings busy at their work. Sheffield is renowned for hosting major events – from the World Snooker Championships played each year (April/May) at the Crucible Theatre to the International Documentary Festival (June); from Tramlines Music Festival (July) held on the streets and across more than 80 venues to the Sheffield Food Festival (September) which showcases the talents of local chefs, the quality of food being produced locally and the sheer diversity of what’s available to tickle those tastebuds. In a city where football was invented (Sheffield FC is recognised by FIFA as the world’s first football club), it’s not surprising that Sheffield hosts a magnificent calendar of major sporting events, from football
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fixtures to four-legged races at the Owlerton Greyhound Stadium and just about every sport in between for you to watch. If you’ve got too much adrenaline to sit back and watch, give climbing (or bouldering) a try. Choose from five indoor centres or more than 300 crags in the great outdoors and you’ll soon see why Sheffield is recognised as the UK’s ‘capital of climbing’. The ‘Great Outdoors’ is never greater than you’ll find in Sheffield. Whether it’s a stroll through one of more than 50 magnificent Victorian parks or a walk through historic woodland, it’s all right here on the doorstep of England’s fourth largest city. Footpaths are crisscrossed by cycle paths, so whether you choose two feet or two wheels there’s much to explore. ‘The UK’s biggest outdoor event for outdoor people’ perfectly sums up Sheffield’s Cliffhanger event which takes place in Graves Park in July. Take a step away from the city centre to explore the Antiques Quarter, but don’t be mistaken in thinking this is full of dusty old things. Think vibrant and quirky, vintage and Victoriana. Walking around this part of the city, around Abbeydale Road, will introduce you to local traders ready to serve you coffee in china cups, shops filled with gifts and treats as sweet as cupcakes. You’ll find followers of fashion and fashion trendsetters in the independent boutiques around the city, take a walk along Ecclesall Road and you’ll walk with the famous and beautiful. Independent fashion houses are interspersed by some of the best bars and restaurants in the city. Exciting times and exciting places lead to tired people, so there’s nothing more wonderful than taking a rest in luxurious surroundings. From boutique hotels to cosy converted barns the range of accommodation here offers you a choice of being in the heart of the city or the heart of the countryside. A warm welcome awaits you.
Clockwise from top left: Sheffield's Winter Garden is the largest temperate glasshouse to be built in the UK. The delicious Cocoa Wonderland. Sheffield's famous Botanical Gardens first opened in 1836. Bright performances at Tramlines Urban Music Festival. Sheffield City Hall.
Essential experiences 1
Winter Garden A huge temperate glasshouse has created a stunning green world in the heart of Sheffield.
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City Centre Market Newly opened indoor market with over 80 stalls is a vibrant addition to the rebuilt Moor precinct.
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The Hampton by Hilton hotel opens this February alongside Marco Pierre White’s ‘New York Italian’ restaurant.
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Millennium Gallery Sheffield's premier destination for art, craft and design with unique Metalwork and Ruskin collections.
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Sheffield Theatres Three distinctive venues form the largest regional theatre complex outside London.
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THE DUCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE'S CORNER OF YORKSHIRE The area around upper Wharfedale in the magnificent Yorkshire Dales encompasses some of the most beautiful scenery in the UK. From the upper reaches where the River Wharfe rises in Langstrothdale, it flows 69 miles south east until it joins the Ouse near York, creating a major attraction as it cascades down the valley.
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For over seven miles the river flows through Bolton Abbey and the 30,000 acre estate, owned by successive Dukes of Devonshire. Over the centuries the estate has been carefully managed for the enjoyment of all with access to 80 miles of footpaths across moorland, through wooded valleys and alongside the river bank. The Duchess of Devonshire offers a rare glimpse of what is special to her in this corner of the Dales. “For many years Yorkshire was our home and we return as often as possible, visiting the estate’s working farms and speaking with the foresters and gamekeepers, which enables us to catch up with the
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local news. At the entrance to the estate is The Devonshire Arms and we were delighted when it was named 'Yorkshire’s Small Hotel of the Year 2012’ for which credit must go to the marvellous staff who look after our guests so well. Whilst formerly a coaching inn, the hotel has seen many alterations over the years and I have taken great delight in being closely involved with the interiors. My favourite room is, without doubt, the Dog Lounge with its interesting collection of dog paintings against a background of ‘Best in Show’ wallpaper, which I couldn’t resist. One of the changes we made some years ago was when we converted the historic barn opposite to offer the best beauty therapy treatments alongside a pool and gym. The Devonshire Health Barn has a calm and friendly environment in which to enjoy healthy exercise and relaxing therapeutic treatments, and the newly decorated interior includes a quiet space in which to relax. The hotel’s two restaurants are both multi-award winning and provide a choice of dining from the colourful and casual Devonshire Brasserie and Bar to the elegant Burlington where diners enjoy culinary masterpieces. Whichever you prefer, you will come across long standing cellar master Nigel Fairclough, who loves nothing better than to help find you something a little different to enjoy with your meal. Further up the river and at the northern edge of the estate is The Devonshire Fell in the picturesque village of Burnsall. We bought this property in 1999 and completely re-designed it to offer a modern restaurant with rooms. Local ingredients are prepared with flair and imagination, wines are from the Devonshire Cellar and local cask ales are served. The views are simply breathtaking and every time I visit I never fail to be inspired by the beauty of the surrounding scenery. Guests staying here can easily explore the estate and use the Health Barn at The Devonshire Arms but it’s also within easy reach of Grassington and Malham Cove, two places that are very popular with visiting friends.
Clockwise from top left: A luxury country house hotel. The Devonshire Health Barn. 'Old Wing' bedroom at The Devonshire Arms. Fantastic food at the Burlington restaurant. Luxury surroundings. The Dog Lounge. Beautiful rooms.
Whatever time of year you visit Bolton Abbey – for a walk and to look round the Priory – the Cavendish Pavilion is a must. Last winter we completely restyled this old building, which had been built in the 1890s to resemble a railway station to cater for the many visitors who arrived by steam train, covering the last mile to the riverbank on foot. The Duke and I enjoy walking with our grandchildren in search of a treat or an ice cream and we can certainly recommend the scones which are a firm favourite. Bolton Abbey, we believe, is a special place and, whether you are staying overnight or just visiting for the day, it offers something for all to enjoy.”
Next Step Further information on Bolton Abbey or on Devonshire Hotels and Restaurants can be found by visiting the websites www.boltonabbey.com and www.devonshirehotels.co.uk
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EPIC STEAM ADVENTURES Journey through history aboard a vintage train. Step back in time on the Railway Children’s Railway in the heart of Brontë Country. Experience the magic and wonder of our fantastic collection of stunning engines, wagons and carriages. Enjoy a snapshot of the Railway’s glory days. A reminder of an age when train travel was a glamorous adventure.
Running like a ribbon through Brontë Country, a trip on Keighley & Worth Valley Railway guarantees some of the most breath taking scenery and famous landscapes in the world. Relive the famous story of The Railway Children as you watch the vintage trains puff their way in and out of the valley, or jump aboard and travel to the Edwardian Oakworth station the location for the famous 1970s film. A fantastic family day out, there’s hands on fun and learning to be had along the line. At Ingrow West station you will find two award-winning transport museums. Hop off the train and visit the Ingrow Museum of Rail Travel, where sound and video presentations help to bring the past
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to life, whilst The Ingrow Loco Museum boasts locomotives as well as exhibits and archive film. With family fun all year round, as well as a host of regular events adding to the magic, a trip to Keighley & Worth Valley Railway is not to be missed!
Clockwise from left: Discover time travel with a ride on a fantastic steam train. Family fun with loads to discover. Incredible engines to explore in our fantastic railway museums. Beautifully authentic stations from a bygone era.
Discover more For more information on events and for timetables go to www.kwvr.co.uk
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WELCOME TO WEST YORKSHIRE
FILM FOOD & FESTIVALS Whether you’re looking for one of Britain’s most ethnically diverse cities, irresistible shopping, quiet countryside, world-class museums, festivals and cultural events, or some of Britain’s most important industrial and architectural heritage, you’ll find it in West Yorkshire.
Left to right: Brontë Parsonage Museum. Bradford's City Park. Relax and unwind at Titanic Spa in Huddersfield. The beautiful surroundings of Yorkshire Sculpture Park near Wakefield.
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Yorkshire Sculpture Park image: © Jonty Wilde. Henry Moore, Upright Motives No. 1, 2 and 7. On loan from Tate. Reproduced by permission of The Henry Moore Foundation.
You’ll need more than one visit to this part of the world to truly appreciate how amazing it is. But to get things going, here’s a spread of attractions that will help make those memories. Bradford’s National Media Museum plots an interactive history of film, TV and images and with the chance to read the BBC news or get chased by Telly Tubbies, what’s not to like? The nearby Alhambra Theatre is bringing the Lion King this year too from March to May! Take a family friendly boat trip through Standedge Tunnel in Marsden, the longest canal tunnel in the country. Adventure ahoy! For live entertainment and comedy check out the Town Hall and Lawrence Batley Theatre. Castleford is the home of legendary sculptor Henry Moore and the new Castleford Forum Museum & Library tells the story of Castleford’s Roman beginnings and celebrates the legacy of Henry himself. Just minutes away, you can journey back in time at Pontefract Castle, the scene of King Richard II’s demise. Poor chap. Need a day out for the kids? Eureka! Literally. The national children’s museum is perfect for mini-mes and recently opened a multi-million pound new All About Me Gallery. Get the camera and walking boots and journey out into the lands that inspired the description of Yorkshire as God’s Own Country. It’s hard to find more natural drama than the moors around picturesque Haworth – they inspired the world famous Brontë sisters to write their masterpieces. Pop in to the Brontë Parsonage to see their family home. Holmfirth is another glorious part of the world – picture perfect in fact as
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it has inspired many artists, not least Ashley Jackson. It’s also the living set of the world’s longest running comedy TV show Last of the Summer Wine. The great outdoors of Halifax is made for exploring too. Shibden Hall and its parklands is just one example of a great place to stretch the legs. Head for nearby Shibden Mill Inn for award winning food to cap off a great day. Look out for CityCross – offering cyclists the chance to race across varied urban terrain from cobbles to corridors. Wakefield boasts several award winning parks and for unrivalled art and nature check out the stunning Yorkshire Sculpture Park. Across the district of Wakefield, is the historic town of Ossett. It’s also close to the now world-famous World Coal Carrying Championships each spring – so sack off your other plans and head down! Where to start on events in Holmfirth, as there are so many! Highlights include festivals of art, film, food and drink and folk music. For red carpet rendezvous, check out the Bradford International Film Festival and the Bradford Animation Festival. The city was also the world’s first UNESCO City of Film. Did you know that Pontefract is the global home of liquorice? To celebrate this sweet fact, the town hosts an annual festival – on July 13 this year – and we guarantee you’ll see all sorts! You can bet you’ll have a grand day out at Pontefract Races. Easy to get to off the M62, it hosts a huge range of themed days from family to ladies. Escape to Xscape nearby for a giant indoor ski experience or surf simulator. Head to Huddersfield – the home of rugby league – and check out the
excellent exhibition on the history of the sport at the Tolson Museum until Easter and discover the largest free outdoor theatre spectacular in Yorkshire - the Festival of Light. If you want to hang tough, head for ROKT in Brighouse – a massive indoor climbing centre and home to the only bouldering room of its kind. Bradford City FC’s momentous league cup run to Wembley grabbed the attention of the world last year, so take a trip to the city that hit the spotlight including the new City Park with the UK’s largest water feature. If it’s a place to kick back and relax, you’re covered. Huddersfield boasts several great places including Titanic Spa (the UK’s first eco spa) set in seclusion on the edge of the Pennines, and holistic health spa Alexandra House Spa. You might need some relaxing treatments after all the bag carrying you’ll have done following a day’s shopping along the famous Yorkshire Mill Mile through the market towns of Dewsbury and Batley.
Essential experiences 1
Hardcastle Crags, Calderdale Tumbling streams and glorious waterfalls crisscrossed by more than 15 miles of footpaths.
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City Park is Bradford's new high tech water feature and the largest of its kind in the UK with a laser light show.
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Kirklees Light Railway Experience a nostalgic steam ride through the dramatic South Pennines.
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Pontefract Liquorice Festival Annual celebration of all things liquorice with many family activities and live performances.
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Xscape Yorkshire The only place in Yorkshire where you can ski, surf, snowboard and wall climb under one roof.
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SPORT
GRIT, GLORY & GLAMOUR From world-class training stables to the glitz and glamour of Ladies Day, Yorkshire has a thriving racing industry. Phil Rostron goes behind the scenes at Middleham Stables.
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ike steam from a boiling kettle in a cold kitchen, the breathless pant of thoroughbred horses at their daily exercise fills the air. A gaggle of work riders trot out of Kingsley House Stables in Middleham, sharing light-hearted banter and laughter rings out. This is a happy place; 270 acres of prime Yorkshire territory that is home to some 220 horses of varying ability and value, 130 staff and Doogle the year-old labradoodle all under the care of hugely successful trainer Mark Johnston and his wife and assistant trainer Deirdre. The reasons to be cheerful are numerous. In the 2013 Flat season just concluded, Kingsley House has sent out more than 200 winners. Johnston's representatives have amassed more than ÂŁ2.6 million in win and place prize money at racecourses the length and breadth of the land. The sheer scale of the Johnston operation is reflected in an annual wage bill of ÂŁ3 million. When the Johnstons set out to expand from their original training set-up in Lincolnshire their initial thoughts were
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that it would be nice to go back to their Scottish roots. But, as Deirdre explains, they got side-tracked.
The breathless pant of thoroughbred horses at their daily exercise fills the air.
"Kingsley House had been a training yard and when we happened upon it the place was dilapidated with grass everywhere two-foot high, buildings boarded up and gates twisted and hanging off their hinges, but as city people from Glasgow, we looked beyond what we saw and realised the potential. We just loved the feel of the place. "A significant factor was its location within 90 minutes of 10 racecourses."
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In a string of successful stables scattered across the county thoroughbreds are groomed into big money winners.
Middleham Stables have some of the best facilities for racehorses in the country.
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The art of training thoroughbreds has survived more than two centuries at Middleham.
Nowadays it's not unusual for the Kingsley House runners going out on a day's racing calendar to be numbered in their teens and, to that end, the Johnstons have installed an airstrip to allow them to travel to their various destinations by plane. "We would spend hours and hours in the car getting to and from places like Newmarket, Ascot and Goodwood and it's just too busy an operation now to waste time," explains Deirdre who, at 51, is also an accomplished event rider. Behind the colourful spectacle of the racecourse lies a daily routine that must be detailed and thorough in its planning and this is where assistant trainer Jock Bennett plays his leading role. Meticulously drawn up, like a ground artillery battle plan, is a colour-coded work routine for each and every one of the horses in the care of Kingsley House. It is allocated first, second or third lot, cantered or galloped, on a horse walker or not, on the easy list because of a setback, in stalls training or given special individual attention according to individual needs. The morning alarms sound at 5.30 and the still of the night suddenly becomes a hive of activity as stable hands spring into action, work riders arrive on the scene and the journey to equine stardom begins. The first lot are out at 6.15am and then throughout the morning until staff leave at 12noon before returning at 4.30pm for grooming. For those preparing to race, runners will exercise in the morning, leave the stables and arrive at the track stables four hours before the first horse is set to run. Mark, 54, sent out his first winner, Hinari Video, at Carlisle in July 1987 and moved to Middleham the following year. He’s trained more than 100 winners for
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“ Sheer hard work, devotion to duty, always wanting to win and always trying to win are traits in everyone who works here.� 20 consecutive seasons. The most familiar colours among his owners are the green jacket, red cap of Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Al Maktoum, a son of Sheikh Mohammed, the ruler of Dubai. He owns almost half of the horses in training, with Johnston having first
sent him a single horse in 1993 and four the next year. So what is the secret of the Johnston success? "There's no secret," says Deirdre. "Sheer hard work, devotion to duty, always wanting to win and always trying to win are traits in everyone who works here."
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Left: Amazing views of the Dales from the track.
THE 9 YORKSHIRE RACECOURSES Yorkshire is proud to have more top racecourses than any other county in the UK. Find out more at www.yorkshire.com/racing
Beverley Racecourse
The early alarm, the mucking out, the shodding of hooves, the winter mud and snow and howling, biting wind, the gallops, the getting ready, the horsebox to the races. The Johnston team think of nothing else.
Set in stunning surroundings this racecourse hosts right-handed flat racing over one mile and three furlongs.
Catterick Racecourse
A venue steeped in tradition and a favourite among many of the region's owners, trainers and racing public.
Doncaster Racecourse
See the bends, the straights and why this is one of the best Grade 1 courses in the country.
Pontefract Racecourse
Top notch horse racing for over two centuries. Flat race meetings make a great atmosphere in intimate surroundings.
Redcar Racecourse With that we go by Land Rover to the top of the hill and the viewing tower. You gaze down on a landscape that feels like the whole of the earth is beneath your feet and wonder, for a moment, at all that goes into winning that £100,000 big-race first prize: the early alarm, the mucking out, the shodding of hooves, the winter mud and snow and howling, biting wind, the gallops, the getting ready, the horsebox to the races. The punters don't think of those things when there's a fiver each way at stake. For the Johnston team, they think of nothing else. To find out more about horseracing in Yorkshire go to www.yorkshire.com/sport
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Next step Mark Johnston Racing opens Kingsley House and Warwick House on Middleham Stables Open Day. It’s just one of the many stables to open its doors for the Middleham Stables Open Day taking place on Good Friday 18 April 2014. Adult entrance tickets are £10 each to include a full colour brochure and entry to a prize draw. Accompanied children under 12 go free. For more information contact Middleham Key Centre on 01969 624411 or visit middlehamstablesopenday.co.uk - all profits from the day go to local charities.
Redcar's modern racecourse is set in 72 panoramic acres and is Yorkshire's only coastal town race course.
Ripon Racecourse
Known as Yorkshires Garden Racecourse, Ripon has hosted the most prestigious racing for more than 300 years.
Thirsk Racecourse
A compact and scenic circuit nestled between the North York Moors and the Yorkshire Dales.
Wetherby Racecourse
Yorkshire's only exclusively National Hunt Jumps Racecourse and one of the most enjoyable places to follow National Hunt racing in Britain.
York Racecourse
The Knavesmire has been home to racing in York for 280 years.
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HERE COME THE GIRLS The stirrups are on, the starting gates are braced to burst open and the thunder of hooves are set to ring around the track. Tension is mounting and adrenalin is coursing through the veins of jockey, trainer, owner and punter. It’s a moment that will see dreams made or shattered, when money will be made or lost. Welcome to the exhilarating world of horse racing where one day in particular brings an extra sparkle to proceedings. Yes, Ladies Day has arrived. It’s all about huge hats, high heels and flutes of fizz as fashion meets adrenalin fuelled racing. It’s a heady mix. Some 25,000 race-goers make the annual pilgrimage to the county’s biggest Ladies Day at the Welcome to Yorkshire Ebor Festival in York. Today’s the day that the Best Dressed Racegoer is crowned so all eyes are on the elegance and imagination behind the stunning array of outfits filling the racecourse. The crowds move onto the drinks tents where the champagne corks pop and there’s Pimms aplenty. And while the drinks are quaffed, a team of more than 60 chefs prepare for the day ahead, making 3,000 sandwiches, 1,000 east coast crabs and using 250 dozen Yorkshire eggs. Outside, the atmosphere buzzes as bookies talk odds and the tills ring out as fist fulls of notes change hands. The building chatter of the commentators echo through the press box and the tanoy announces that they’re under starters orders and they’re off. The fate of so many rests on that winning horse and millions of pairs of eyes are watching with bated breath. The interest in York’s four-day festival is so great, TV pictures are beamed out to 82 countries with the likes of Australia showing live races.
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There’s a whopping £3.2 million worth of prize money to be won over the four days and it’s estimated that the racecourse contributes £58m to the city’s businesses. The figures are headspinning and in Yorkshire alone, the horse racing industry is worth a massive £230m to county’s economy. The value of this multi-million pound industry is not to be sniffed at. James Brennan, York Racecourse head of marketing and sponsorship, said: “The Welcome to Yorkshire Ebor Festival is our highlight of the year in both the sporting and social sense. High quality horses and high fashion combine to create a great atmosphere. Whilst big hats and sharp suits are part of the entire four days, Ladies Day has a special feel and you can tell that for many racegoers it is the fruition of much planning and is eagerly awaited.”
“ All eyes are on the elegance and imagination behind the stunning array of outfits filling the racecourse.” Ladies Day events are held at race courses across the county and in Doncaster over 15,000 flock to the town’s racecourse in September. There the Best Dressed Lady crown is up for grabs with the winner of the coveted title going on to represent Doncaster Racecourse in the final of Yorkshire’s Best Dressed Lady 2014. During the day, nearly 8,000 bottles of Champagne are devoured, along with nearly 78,000 glasses of Pimm’s - and the biggest prize-pot for one race stands at £300,000. Wherever you choose to spend Ladies Day, it's an event not to be missed.
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WELCOME TO SOUTH YORKSHIRE
WIDE OPEN SPACES South Yorkshire has been transformed into a 21st Century playground with a passion for music, sport, heritage and culture. Alongside some of the UK's best shopping, family attractions and nightlife, you'll find some of UK's finest Gothic architecture, museums and Victorian monuments.
Award winning visitor attractions, beautiful places, exciting horseracing, green open spaces and an amazing variety of heritage makes South Yorkshire a must for every generation. This area really is a haven for history fans. Choose from the spectacular white circular keep of Conisbrough Castle, the fabulous 17th century Worsbrough Mill near Barnsley, the opulent features of Brodsworth Hall - one of England’s most complete Victorian country houses, or the
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imposing 18th century Cusworth Hall set in extensive landscaped parklands. With so much history, Doncaster’s Museum and Art Gallery is another great place to discover Doncaster's heritage. Other fine examples include the fantastic walled gardens and beautiful rolling parklands at Cannon Hall, the 18th century former hunting lodge of Boston Castle, one of the most complete ground plans of any English Cistercian monastery at Roche Abbey and Doncaster’s elegant Mansion
House that dominates the high street. For a day out with a difference, get wet at Hatfield Water Park, have fun splashing around at the Metrodome Calypso Cove indoor waterpark in Barnsley, have a flutter at Doncaster Racecourse, home of the St Leger, shop till you drop at Lakeside Village Outlet Shopping and Doncaster Market or meet Yorkshire Wildlife Park’s strangest animal yet, anteater Kounany, who is just 18 months old. For big and little kids that are full
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Main picture: Walking in the Peak District This page top to bottom: Magna Science Adventure Centre. Time really does stand still at Brodsworth Hall. Get outdoors and take on some challenging climbs. Roche Abbey has one of the most complete ground plans of any English Cistercian monastery.
of beans, sometimes only a trip to The Dome Leisure Centre will do. Discover a museum specializing in post-war aircraft and other flying memorabilia at Aeroventure in Doncaster or an 18th century industrial village, antiques, crafts and working steam railway at Elsecar Heritage Centre. And over in Rotherham, explore the incredible interactive pavilions of Fire, Water, Earth and Air, crammed with fascinating hands-on activities at Magna and a world of unforgettable animal encounters at the Tropical Butterfly House, Wildlife and Falconry Centre between Rotherham and Sheffield. Whether you’re seriously into bird watching or just fancy a breath of fresh air in beautiful scenery, there is something for everyone in South Yorkshires rural landscape and with the South Yorkshire Pennines on your doorstep, you'll also have the option to spend a peaceful afternoon on the Trans Pennine Trail, surrounded by nothing more than wild flowers and Shetland ponies. The RSPB Old Moor near Barnsley offers an amazing family day out in 250 acres of glorious nature reserve teeming with wildlife and over in Doncaster, Potteric Carr is the flagship nature reserve of the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust. Contrary to popular misconception, by far the majority of Rotherham is designated as rural rather than urban space. There are several parks, which date back to Victorian times or the early 20th Century. Clifton Park offers a great day out for the whole family, with gardens to relax in and plenty for children to do plus the recently-renovated Clifton Park Museum, which is one of the most welcoming and informative borough museums in the country. Ulley Country Park is a scenic haven, and with 19 hectares of park to explore, onsite Sheffield Cable Waterski and an activity centre, Rother Valley Country Park is a paradise for those who enjoy the outdoors. From pretty moorland, rolling hills and dales to scented meadows and leafy forests, the Peak District is home to some of the country's finest scenery and if it's adrenaline that you're dreaming of, then the Peak District is
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the perfect place to flex your muscles - offering climbing, mountain biking, hiking and horse riding for the whole family to enjoy. The area's confident and creative spirit can be witnessed across the diverse range of art galleries, craft centres and museums. The Cooper Gallery is the place to discover stunning art and enjoy lunch with friends in Barnsley. At Rotherham’s Gallery Town the open air art gallery, with more than 60 pieces of artwork reproduced in large format on the side of buildings, is meant to impress and The Gallery@ The Civic is one of Barnsley's landmark creative spaces. At Experience Barnsley Museum and Discovery Centre find a unique hands on approach to history explaining Barnsley's incredible story.
Essential experiences 1
Cannon Hall Farm Animals in abundance and always something new and exciting around the next corner.
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New York Stadium The new home of Rotherham United Football Club opened in 2012 bringing the team back home.
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Doncaster Racecourse Home to the St Leger and provides over 30 days of top class racing throughout the year.
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Yorkshire Wildlife Park Discover the inhabitants of Lemur Woods, Wallaby Walkabout and the African Plains.
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Wentworth Castle Gardens Explore around 60 acres of formal historic gardens and 500 acres of parkland.
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ARTISTIC
BEST IN SHOW
If you ever needed a must see, must do list of places to visit, experience and enjoy in Yorkshire, then the White Rose Awards winners provide the perfect inspiration.
Clockwise from above: Exciting performances at Northern Ballet. Low Mill Guest House. 1884 Dock Street Kitchen. Yorebridge House. Swinton Park. Ryedale Folk Museum. The magnificent Castle Howard.
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AWARDS
he fact that the Yorkshire tourism royalty were crowned kings and queens at the famous awards and named winners by an independent panel of judges means you know it’s a list worth noting. Indeed, the awards at New Dock Hall, Leeds, were graced by several celebs enjoying not just the night but the prospect of checking out some of the winning places.
is 1884 Dock Street Kitchen. Head Chef James Allcock and his team scooped the award for best restaurant, and the progress this relatively new addition to the culinary menu in Yorkshire has made is astonishing since opening its doors on Humber Dock. Recent years certainly have been eventful in Yorkshire, and well, it seemed only right to acknowledge the role events play. So if you’ve never experienced the uniqueness that is
Lake views, cosy cabins and first class service helped Brompton Lakes in Richmond bag the trophy for best self-catering. It’s hard to disagree and is perfect for a family looking for the great North Yorkshire outdoors or just as good for a bunch of mates. It’s the kind of getaway you've seen on films, minus the drama – just relaxation. If big hotels are more your thing, then check out and check in to four-star Wentbridge House, Pontefract. With a history dating back to the 1700s, it is steeped in character and a setting to rival a work of art. Speaking of food, look to the East and in Hull you’ll find the rising star that
the rebirth of York Mystery Plays, then make a date this year. Their outdoor, operatic-scale live dramas helped them win the best event award and are a must-see when on. And what better way to crown a royalty themed evening than with an attraction that’s actually a castle. Castle Howard, to be exact. There aren't many places like this that are not only a historic castle attraction, but also still home to the family. So there you have it, just a taste of the winning places for you to explore among the other trophy winners. For all White Rose Award winners go to www.whiteroseawards.com
York Mystery Plays outdoor, operatic-scale live dramas helped them win the best event award and are a must-see when on.
Tourism Royalty The Kings and Queens of the White Rose Awards 2013 Small Visitor Attraction Ryedale Folk Museum, Hutton-le-Hole Large Visitor Attraction Castle Howard, York Taste of Yorkshire Yorkshire Provender, Ripon Self-Catering Brompton Lakes, Richmond Pub House of the Trembling Madness, York
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Caravan & Camping Park Bivouac at Druid's Temple, Masham Bed & Breakfast Low Mill Guest House, Bainbridge Large Hotel Wentbridge House Hotel, Pontefract Small Hotel Swinton Park, Masham Business Tourism The Spa Bridlington
Restaurant 1884 Dock Street Kitchen, Hull
Outstanding Customer Service Web Adventure Park (Julie Brookes), York
Restaurant with Rooms Yorebridge House, Bainbridge
Visitor Information Doncaster Tourist Information Centre
Tourism Event York Mystery Plays 2012
Arts & Culture Northern Ballet, Leeds
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This is
CY C L I N G SP E CI A L WE TAKE YOU THROUGH THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES featured IN THE 2014 GRAND DÉpart and talk to the QUEEN of yorkshire cycling, lizzie armitstead
THE ROUTE
A more detailed look at the challenges to face the riders on Stage One and Two
CUL T U R AL F E S TI VAL
Introducing a world first, the 100 day festival leading up to Le Tour
THE M AGI C N U M BE R
Explore different ways you can experience the Yorkshire Grand Départ stages
YORKSHIRE Grand Départ
samedi 5 juillet
HARROGATE YORK dimanche 6 juillet
LEEDS
SHEFFIELD
CAMBRIDGE lundi 7 juillet
LONDRES
LégENDE / the key Grand Départ / Race start Arrivée finale / Race finish Ville départ / Start town Ville arrivée / Finish town Étape / Stage Transfert / Transfer
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PARIS Champs-Élysées letouryorkshire.com
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e’re celebrating Yorkshire’s special year with a bumper supplement dedicated to the Grand Départ. National journalist James Ellis explores part of the Tour de France route on a chauffeurdriven trike tour. Or perhaps you’d prefer to Taste le Tour with Yorkshire Food Finders, save your legs with electric bikes or saddle up with Draughton Riding Centre. These are just a few of the novel ways visitors can follow in the tyre tracks of Tour de France riders and shows how businesses have been inspired by the world’s largest annual sporting event coming to our county. If you’d prefer a journey through the history and heritage of the routes, why not visit the castles, abbeys, villages and cities which have so many stories to tell; from Bolton Castle where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned to the ‘Best High Street in England’ in Skipton and ‘Yorkshire’s funkiest little town’ - Hebden Bridge. Read about how the county’s cultural scene has been bursting with excitement and is set to go wild with festival fever 100 days before the Grand Départ arrives on July 5 & 6. Starting on March 27, the county will be transformed with performances and art pieces which have all been commissioned for Yorkshire Festival 2014. And finally, we’re thrilled to talk to Yorkshire’s very own cycling star Lizzie Armitstead who already knows the roads of Stage One well - even regularly riding them with mum, dad and brother. Whichever way you want to experience the routes, whether it’s like an Olympic Silver Medallist, on hoof or by trike, we look forward to the Grand Départ inspiring visitors and taking its place in Yorkshire’s history and our hearts. Gary Verity, Chief Executive, Welcome to Yorkshire @LeTourYorkshire
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WelcometoYorkshire
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Lizzie Armitstead is attending the Dare 2b Yorkshire Festival of Cycling, held 4-6 July 2014 at Harewood House, Leeds: www.festivalofcycling.org
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INTERVIEW
W H IZ Z Y L I Z Z IE Andrew Denton talks to Otley's golden girl of cycling Lizzie Armitstead, about Le Tour, her training goals for gold and a modest tarmac tribute in her home town.
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gainst the sun drenched backdrop of Harewood House, Lizzie Armitstead cuts a calm, confident and happy figure. A far cry from the skin soaked cyclist left speechless outside Buckingham Palace as she raced through the rain to claim Team GB’s first medal of the London 2012 Olympic Games. In that moment as she battled the squall and one of the greatest female cyclists of all time – Marianne Vos – Armitstead catapulted herself from local stardom to national hero. In that silver-lined sprint for the line, Yorkshire’s golden girl and her home town of Otley went global. Her name shot around the world and fulfilled a headline writer’s dream of a front page emblazoned with “Elizabeth II”. You sense from speaking to her though, that her upbringing has helped her to take it in her considerable stride. “I feel privileged to have grown up in Yorkshire,” she says “I spent my childhood outdoors enjoying the countryside and I don’t think it’s a coincidence that I am a professional athlete. I was very active as a kid, it was always accessible so I am very thankful that I was brought up here.” Like her Team GB and fellow Yorkshire residents, Alistair and Jonny Brownlee and Hannah Cockroft she credits the landscape
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of Yorkshire for having helped sculpt her as a competitor and while career demands have meant she’s swapped Boroughgate and Bondgate for the warmer climes of the Cote d’Azur, the lure of her home county is always strong, especially when the Tour de France is in town. “Not many people get to experience a home Olympics and then experience a home town Tour de France Grand Départ, I feel very lucky to be in cycling at this particular time. My friends and family understand cycling a lot more and are taking it up as well so I will be able to experience it with them.” The roads of Stage One are some Armitstead knows well, using them to train on when she is back from competing, forming a paternal peloton containing her dad, her mum and her brother. Team Armitstead regularly head out to Kettlewell and back using the tailwind on the turn to blow them back home. “I’ve ridden a lot of Stage One, I think it’s going to be good and challenging, there are a few harder climbs they could have chosen but I understand that it is the first stage of the Tour de France so they can’t make it too brutal! “I describe the landscape of Yorkshire as being like the Spring Classics in the Ardennes, the Amstel Gold and Liege, it’s that kind of
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fulfil that footballing fantasy. And just as Armitstead turns for home to recover from a hard day on the bike, I ask her what tarmac tribute she would like to see as Le Tour rolls through her home town. “I don’t really get that very often so I’d be happy enough with ‘Lizzie’ I think. It would be nice to have it in Otley. I’ve never had my name written on the road before so it’s not something I have had to think about.” Otley Cycle Club if you’re reading this, perhaps you could claim a corner in honour of Armitstead? It would make a local girl, and a national hero, very happy and who knows it might just inspire her to go one better the following month and bring back gold. Headline writers at the ready, Elizabeth II could ascend to Elizabeth I but regardless of the Commonwealth outcome she will always be a cycling Queen of Yorkshire.
ROUTE TO T HE TO P
up and down heavy roads and relentless landscapes.” Intriguingly enough for a county keen to press its cycling credentials, Yorkshire is where Armitstead comes to get fit, shunning the smooth, shiny, warm roads of Spain for the heavy tarmac and headwinds of the Wharfe Valley. Calling Team Sky and Omega Pharma Quick-Step. Team training camps in Yorkshire rather than Majorca from now on? As Lizzie explains: “You would only need two weeks to get fit if you came and trained here compared to other places in Europe. There is not much recovery as you are up and down all the time, it’s really hard work training here. I would struggle a lot more doing five hours here than I would in Europe. It’s good in terms of raising your fitness levels.” Armitstead will be based in the UK during June and July as she prepares for her goal of gold at the Commonwealth Games, which will also allow her to be in Otley as the Tour passes through. “The Tour de France coming to your home town, you don’t really want to miss it so I am planning to be in Otley to spectate with my family and enjoy it for the spectacle that it is. “It will be quite nice for me because normally when people ask me where I am from I say England, and then they say where, and I say Leeds and a lot of people say Leeds United, so it will be nice that Yorkshire will be on the map for another reason other than Leeds United!” It’s a wish that every non-Leeds supporting fan has been making for decades. Who knew Le Tour could
2005-7 Junior and Under-23 Claims scratch race silver medal at junior Track Cycling World Championships 2005. Wins scratch race gold and points race silver at under-23 European Track Championships 2007.
“Not many people get to experience a home Olympics and then experience a home town Tour de France Grand Départ, I feel very lucky to be in cycling at this particular time. ” 2008 Coming of age Wins scratch race and team pursuit gold at under-23 European Track Championships and scratch race, points race and team pursuit at Track World Cup in Manchester. Victory in scratch race and team pursuit at Track World Cup in Melbourne.
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2009 Best young rider
2010 Tour queen
2011 Winning ways
2012-13 A year to remember
Wins first stage of Tour de l'Aude and Best Young Rider at women's Tour of Italy. Wins Track World Cup team pursuit in Manchester.
Silver in team pursuit and the omnium at Track Cycling World Championships. Three stage wins at Tour de l'Ardeche. Silver in Commonwealth Games road race.
Outsprints past champions to take the women's title at British Road Race Championships title.
Wins silver medal in London Olympic Games road race, beaten in a sprint finish on The Mall by Holland's Marianne Vos. Celebrated victory at National Road Race Championships.
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STAGE ONE
T he Da les n ever fails
Starting in Leeds and finishing with a sprint into Harrogate, Stage One of the Grand DÊpart is described as the stage of romance and wonder as it passes seven castles and seven abbeys which make up some of Yorkshire’s most picturesque landscapes.
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A classic climb, Buttertubs Pass connects Hawes in Wensleydale to Muker in Swaledale. Expect a long climb with some steep sections to reach spectacular open moorland.
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© VisitBritain Images
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s the buzz of excitement charges through the 200 riders and thousands of spectators standing in the shadows of the magnificent Leeds Town Hall, the focus will be on the world’s largest annual sporting event about to unfold before their very eyes. With all minds on the gruelling challenges of the Grand Départ, few will realise the rich tapestry of heritage and romance which is woven throughout the entire route. Leeds itself is proud of its Royal connections, for the Duchess of Cambridge isn’t just a national treasure, she is one of Yorkshire’s most precious offspring. Kate Middleton's father was born in Leeds while her grandfather Peter Francis Middleton was married at St John's parish church in Adel near Leeds in 1946. Her great great grandfather, Francis Martineau Lupton, was a wealthy Yorkshire mill owner, a city councillor and had been an alderman in Leeds at the beginning of the 20th Century. Just a few years earlier, a national institution was born in the city. When Michael Marks opened a market stall in the city with the slogan “don’t ask the price, it’s a penny” little did he know his business would go on to be one of the UK’s best known brands. He went into partnership with Tom Spencer to create Marks & Spencer and now 130 years later, the Leeds born company is an international brand. The cyclists will roll out of the city for a non-racing start, to the cheers from crowds through Moortown and Alwoodley, which both boast championship golf courses designed by famous golf architect Dr Alister MacKenzie and which once hosted the Ryder Cup. It’s then onto one of England’s treasure houses Harewood House, home to the Lascelles family for over 250 years - and the first castle on the route. Medieval tower house Harewood Castle was built in the 14th century by William de Aldburgh and now, despite dilapidation, the castle’s twin towers are still visible from Harrogate Road. They have also provided romantic subject matter for painters over the years. After Harewood, the energy and adrenalin cranks up a notch as the real race begins. Fast and furious, the cyclists will woosh through Otley, hometown to 2012 Olympic road race silver medallist Lizzie Armitstead, and past the Duke of Devonshire’s 30,000 acre Bolton Abbey Estate. Gateway to the Dales, Skipton will welcome the peloton which will fly past its 900 year medieval castle. As they enter the Yorkshire Dales National Park, riders' thoughts will turn to the three climbs which lie ahead while the picturesque villages will prepare to welcome international cycling fans as well as hikers and walkers. Many locations have already had their own little brush with fame – not to mention the countless
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As they enter the Yorkshire Dales National Park, riders' thoughts will turn to the three climbs which lie ahead while the picturesque villages will prepare to welcome international cyclists as well as hikers and walkers. Main picture: Empty roads, rolling landscapes and fast descents around the Yorkshire Dales will please any cyclist. Bottom from left: The Yorkshire Dales can be used for hard training and recovery rides. A nod to the French heritage of Ripley village.
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TV dramas and soap scenes filmed there. It’s through the village of Rylstone, famous for its Calendar Girls, and then onto Aysgarth, home to stunning waterfalls which featured in the film Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves. Through Bainbridge, the peloton passes two White Rose Award winners Low Mill Guesthouse and Yorebridge House, before it heads to Hawes, home to the fabulous Wensleydale Creamery – a firm favourite with cartoon creations Wallace and Gromit. As the riders tackle their final climb at Grinton, Richmond Castle will be looking on from a distance. Originally built to subdue the unruly North of England, this is one of the greatest Norman fortresses in Britain and is now under the wing of English Heritage. In 1174 William the Lion, King of Scotland, was imprisoned there after his capture at Alnwick before his removal to York. Just a few miles further along the route near Leyburn, riders will breeze
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past Bolton Castle – where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned, for a year in 1568. Dominating the skyline in Middleham, the village’s castle was once home to King Richard III whose remains were at the centre of a recent campaign over where he should be buried. Yorkshire said “Bring him home!” Riding south, Le Tour passes through the village of East Witton close to Jervaulx Abbey, a former Cistercian monastery and through Masham, home to luxury castle hotel
Clockwise from top left: Ride through the majestic grounds at Harewood House. Spectacular views will greet riders throughout the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Elegant streets in Harrogate. Taking a break in Middleham. Crossing the River Wharfe in Kettlewell. Beautiful moorland around the Cow & Calf Rocks in Ilkley. Riders tackle the rugged Dales landscape in Kilnsey.
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S TA GE IN NUMBER S
190 5 26m 8 0 0 4:30 KILOMETRES RIDDEN
CLIMB TO SUMMIT OF BUTTERTUBS
KILOMETRES/HOUR TOP SPEED
ESTIMATE OF TIME TAKEN TO COMPLETE THE STAGE IN HOURS
6 400,000 RIVERS CROSSED ON STAGE
PEOPLE EXPECTED TO LINE THE ROUTE IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES NATIONAL PARK
2 00m
SPRINT FINISH ON THE STRAY
Swinton Park, which provided a haven for Harrogate Ladies College during the Second World War. It’s on the homeward strait as riders leave the Dales and hurtle through Ripon, England's first city where monasteries have stood since the 7th century. Just a stone’s throw away sits Fountain’s Abbey & Studley Royal, a World Heritage Site owned by the National Trust. The story started there in 1132, when there were signs of unrest at St Mary's Abbey in York prompting 13 monks to flee. Under the protection of Archbishop Thurstan, they were granted the land at Fountains to start a new abbey which operated for over 400 years, until 1539, when Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of the monasteries. There’s a real French theme running through the next village of Ripley which was completely demolished and rebuilt in the 1830s by the somewhat eccentric Sir William Amcotts Ingilby. Sir William rebuilt Ripley as a model estate village after being inspired by a visit to Alsace Lorraine, France. Instead of a Town Hall, Ripley has a magnificent ‘Hotel de Ville’ which is the only one of its kind in England. Above the doorway leading into the castle gate house Sir William inscribed ‘Parlez au Suisse’ – encouraging people to speak French to the Franco-Swiss gate keeper that he recruited to work at Ripley Castle. Current owner Sir Thomas Ingilby whose family have resided at the castle of over 700 years, added: “There is
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Left to right: Leeds Town Hall will oversee the start of the Tour de France 2014. The Dales provide riding of the finest variety.
a danger that competitors cycling through Ripley may, on seeing so many references to France around them, think that they have taken a wrong turn - and they will certainly be surprised to come across a French village in the middle of rural North Yorkshire!" It’s now just a few miles to the finish line, where the
Adrenalin will start coursing through the veins of the riders on the race of their life. adrenalin will start coursing through the veins of the riders on the road race of their life. It’s straight into the Victorian spa town of Harrogate recently named the happiest place to live in the UK. Famous for Bettys Tea Rooms and the Royal Hall, Harrogate is also known for its crime writer connections. Agatha Christie famously disappeared to the Old Swan Hotel in 1926, resulting in a public furore over the 11 days that she could not be traced and the town is home to the Theakstons Old Peculier Crime Writing Festival. It will now also be known for hosting the finish of Stage One when riders will sprint across the line on the town’s famous Stray which was created in 1778 to link most of Harrogate's springs in one protected area by an act of Parliament. The Stray is held close to Harrogate’s heart; a fitting finish for the Grand Départ which will take pride of place in the town and Yorkshire’s history. To find out more about the Grand Départ go to www.letouryorkshire.com
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S TAGE one
The first act of the 101st Tour de France will take the riders to the splendid Yorkshire Dales National Park. It will also be the northernmost stage in the history of the Tour. The first Yellow Jersey will be won in Harrogate, at the end of an uphill final straight, promising to be a gruelling battle between the sprinters.
Gunnerside
Reeth
Côte de Grinton Moor
Côte de Buttertubs
Aysgarth Middleham
Hawes
Masham
Côte de Cray Buckden
Ripon Kilnsey
Ripley
Finish Harrogate Skipton
Otley
Harewood
Ilkley
Stage date: 5th July 2014 Stage distance: 190 kilometres For a more detailed map go to www.letouryorkshire.com
Start Leeds
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THE PRO'S VIEW
succeeds, but its composition is crucial. “The peloton will want it to be five or six riders, maximum. They don’t want it to be too big so that it’s a difficult job to chase them down,” explains Dean. Once established, one of the mysteries of bike racing can now be revealed: how a breakaway that struggled to eke out a lead of less than a minute suddenly finds itself with three or four minutes in hand. According to Dean, the answer is simple. “At some point, the peloton – the main bunch – will stop for a ‘comfort break’. They’ll have done the first hour à bloc – flat out – and somewhere on the small roads they’ll just stop for a couple of minutes.” It is considered bad form for photographers and television to record this moment, which is why you don’t see it, but at least you now know. Ups and Downs
S TAGE ONE M ADE FOR C AV EN DI SH? What do the pros think about Stage One of the Tour de France 2014? Paul Howard spoke to Dean and Russell Downing from NFTO Pro Cycling for a more detailed analysis of what lies in store.
Those fortunate enough to be at very sharp end of the race will not have such a luxury. Instead, they will be girding themselves for the day’s minor highlights and major obstacles. The highlights include the intermediate sprints, which bring in prize money and points for the green jersey competition, and the summits of categorised climbs which play a similar role for the ‘King of the Mountains’ jersey. “It will begin to get nervous in the break, there are things at stake now,” says Russell. “Prize money, a chance to wear a Tour de France jersey, to get on the podium, to earn some more TV time.” Neither Russell nor Dean foresees any problems being caused by the three major obstacles of the day, the climbs of Kidstones Bank, Buttertubs and Grinton, as Dean explains. “They might go up to 20% gradient, but even though some riders will think ‘oh, this is hard’, and some in the breakaway might use it to their advantage, no-one in the peloton will race up them. They’re too far from the finish to make any difference.” Sprinting for the Line
Neutralised Start The first point of interest encountered in Stage One is the neutralised section. This allows a competitive race to have a ceremonial start – the ‘Départ Fictif’ - in a location that would otherwise be unsuitable for 200 racing cyclists. In this instance, the race will officially begin in Leeds city centre, but racing proper – the ‘Départ Réel’ – will not start until after a ceremonial lap of Harewood House. “This is when you have race director Christian Prudhomme standing out of the sun-roof holding his flag, with everyone else following along at maybe 20 mph,” explains Russell. As well as overcoming a logistical hurdle, this gentle introduction can help the riders. “It can give you time to relax and get used to being on the bike and in the race, although others get more and more keyed up as the ‘real’ start nears,” says Dean.
24 miles of racing, between Harewood and Skipton, is along wide, main roads. This will make it difficult for any given breakaway – an essential element of Tour stages, allowing riders not suited to a mass finish a small chance of victory and, more importantly, plenty of publicity for their team sponsors on televisions across the globe – to stick. “I’ve ridden the stretch to Skipton quite a few times. We were both in a break there during the Tour of Britain once,” says Dean. “It’s going to be fast – around 30 mph average. It’s the first stage of the Tour de France, everyone will be fresh, at their fittest, lots of riders wanting to get into the break. A break will go, then be brought back, then another and another, until the right one sticks.” Call of Nature There are many factors that determine which breakaway group eventually
Instead, once over the last climb, Russell says the chase will be on in earnest to ensure the sprinters have their say on the Stray in Harrogate. “At some point the break will get an advantage of maybe five minutes, then a team will start riding harder at the front of the peloton. They’ll ride for 10km, and see they’ve brought the gap down by 90 seconds, for example. Then the team mathematician will work out whether they need to ease up or keep working.” The end result, it is widely anticipated, will be a sprint finish. “It’s like it’s designed by Cav,” says Dean. “It’s an out-and-out sprint stage,” adds Russell. “The sprinters will want to be at the front from about 40km out. There’ll be four or five teams, that’s about forty riders, all wanting to get their lead-out train in pole position. The last 10km will be a real bunfight. It’s exciting to watch.” And to be in? “Oh, yes.”
The Great Escape According to Dean and Russell, the serious racing will start as soon as Monsieur Prudhomme drops his flag. “There’ll be 40 guys massed on the front, raring to go,” says Russell. The problem, if that’s the right word, is that the first
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It’s the first stage of the Tour de France, everyone will be fresh, at their fittest, lots of riders wanting to get into the break. 15
The steep valley and cobbled streets around Hebden Bridge provide a dramatic and challenging ride for visitors to tackle.
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STAGE TWO
  B L OOD S WE AT AND  G E ARS
A stage of ancient and modern, starting in York and finishing in Sheffield. This will definitely challenge the peloton with a blend of iconic climbs and countless, short, sharp peaks.
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Main image: It's well worth taking a break to fully appreciate the stunning views around Langsett Reservoir.
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hen the Romans settled in York and built their famous roads, it makes you wonder if they were in some way ahead of the game with half an eye on a certain bike race one day coming to the city. For it’s in historic York that Stage Two of Yorkshire’s Grand Départ saddles up and riders swap hoofs for handlebars as the peloton sweeps out of York Racecourse before heading to the city. The sights and sounds will present their own challenge for riders, with necks sore from straining to see the historic majesty of the city and sights like Clifford’s Tower and the Gothic gem that is York Minster. This year will no doubt see riders from other countries coming here to conquer – both rivals and hills – which harks back to the days of the Vikings, who forever stamped their influence on the city. Nowhere better is this brought to life than an all-senses experience at JORVIK Viking Centre.
But wind back several kilometres and we have ourselves a compelling challenge on the A59 from York to Knaresborough – safe to say unknown country for the international cyclists. Knaresborough is arguably the stage’s most northerly point and home to England’s oldest tourist attraction – Mother Shipton’s Cave. Our good old Ma Shipton was a Yorkshire witch who had a steely eye for magic and an even steelier one for prophesising the future in the age-old, tried and tested method of, yes, poetry. Fair play though, she did alright – predicting the fates of several rulers within and just after her lifetime, plus the Great Fire of London and even the defeat of the Spanish Armada. More temptation is thrust in the way of the peloton as they ride north of Harrogate, knowing that as the aches, acid and grind begin to creep through their muscles that relaxation at the town’s famous Turkish Baths is just a gear change away. Fate has a way of dealing cruel blows and just minutes away is one
Prepare your nasal passages for an assault as the centre takes you through ancient city life – warts and all. Literally. The sights, smells and sounds make it easy to picture what life was like back then. Beer was an everyday necessity. Ghosts are part of the city’s past, present and future – the theme of the entire stage. Speaking of which, angry man Guy Fawkes is one of the city’s less loved sons. Expect fireworks. If they make it out of the city without opting to jump off their bikes and into a long weekend, they’ll tackle the stage proper. With 200km of history and heritage ahead the riders will leave York, head out through Pennine Yorkshire and enter the Peak District before a final flourish into Sheffield.
of the stage’s first real climbs at Blubberhouses. As the peleton swings south, they touch the fringes of the magnificent Bolton Abbey estate. The ruins of the 12th century Priory are a visitor magnet and stunning to behold, not to mention a relaxing visit to the Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel & Spa. The district of Bradford – the world’s first UNESCO City of Film – welcomes the riders next. The city’s stock is on the rise once again after something of a rebirth. Head to the centre for the City Park which has collected a clutch of awards and is home to a high tech water feature, the biggest of its kind in the UK. Moving back to the route, riders will speed on through Silsden and
The sights and sounds will present their own challenge for riders, with necks sore from straining to see the historic majesty of the city and sights like Clifford's Tower.
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Top to bottom: From York Minster to the Bolton Abbey Estate and Knaresborough to Sheffield, Stage Two blends ancient towns with stunning countryside and leg-burning climbs.
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Keighley as they straddle both the River Aire and the famous Leeds Liverpool Canal – a fine example of one of Yorkshire’s waterways, covering everything from boat tours to Lady Teal – the UK’s only five star boutique hotel boat. Waterway enthusiasts must also venture into Huddersfield’s incredible Standedge Tunnel – Britain’s longest canal tunnel at 3.25 miles long. Even though the Tour takes place in Yorkshire during the summer, wouldn’t it be magical if just a whisp of mist was in evidence to welcome the peloton when they wind their way into Brontë Country and the village of Haworth? The past is certainly evident here, not least because it’s the home of the Brontë sisters – some of Britain's greatest novelists. Their novels shook the world around them and the villages Brontë Parsonage shows visitors exactly where the girls got together to stretch their imagination and commit their visionary ideas to paper. The cobbled streets are famous the world over, with the challenging thoroughfare home to period-fronted shops and cafés. Never, when being built, would the original owners This page clockwise from top: Take on the cobbled Main Street in Haworth. Ride past the imposing Clifford's Tower in York. Warming up the legs for a tough ride. Holme Moss is one of the most iconic and spectacular parts of the stage.
or perhaps the present ones too have imagined that cyclists in the world’s largest annual sporting event would be riding on their cobbles in pursuit of glory and gold (well, yellow anyway). Above the whir of wheels, you might also catch the sound of steam with explosive toots echoing across the valleys and Pennines. The source of the sound would be the Railway Children’s very own Keighley & Worth Valley Railway, steaming along its dedicated track carrying
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S TA G E I N N U M B ERS
200 3 ,000 272m KILOMETRES RIDDEN
METRES OF UPHILL RIDING
TOTAL ASCENT OF CRAGG VALE HILL CLIMB
9 4,000 3 3%
CLIMBS ON THE STAGE
AVERAGE CALORIES BURNED
MAXIMUM GRADIENT
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passengers from the present to the past for a few short hours. Oxenhope station heralds the end of the steam line, but the start of another climb for the riders as they ascend over moor and country. The descent takes the route into Hebden Bridge, nestled in the valley and built alongside the picturesque canalway. Dubbed “Yorkshire’s funkiest little town” by the good folk at Lonely Planet, it’s a hotbed of culture and cool. Pubs, bars, cafés and restaurants sit alongside galleries and independent shops in the cobbled and paved lanes. Locally, Cragg Vale is a road of legend. The longest continuous uphill climb in England, takes riders high onto the Pennine moors, wild at best, windswept at worst. As the route continues through Calderdale – or Halifax to most locals – it’s worth pointing out that it is also known by a sweeter name. It’s been dubbed Toffee Town as it harks back to the 1930s when the world-famous Quality Street was invented right there. For food, venture out to the multi-award winning Shibden Mill Inn or try Michelin Bib Gourmand rated El Gato Negro which is so close to the route the riders will smell the Jamon Iberico.
Nestled in a valley and dubbed “Yorkshire’s funkiest little town” by the good folk at Lonely Planet, Hebden Bridge is a hotbed of culture and cool. Pubs, bars, cafés and restaurants sit alongside galleries and independent shops in the hopscotch of cobbled and paved streets. With the smell of Spain behind them, the wheels keep turning towards Huddersfield and the birthplace of rugby league. It’s then when we come to the land of Last of the Summer Wine and Holmfirth. The area was the setting of the show – the world’s longest running sitcom. Holmfirth itself is hard to visit without some sort of festival being in full swing during summer months. Before the Steel City of Sheffield comes the beast of Holme Moss and the green grass of the Peak District National Park complete with stunning, sweeping views. Between the peaks lies the road over the Woodhead
Top to bottom: Ride through the Worth Valley alongside the steam railway. The breathtaking Bolton Abbey Estate. Tight turns at Woodhead. Go through the peaks over Woodhead Reservoir.
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Top to bottom: The beginning of the first big climb at Blubberhouses. Following the Wharfe Valley through Bolton Abbey with Addingham moorside in the distance.
The final stretch is near and so is Sheffield. So many famous names have heralded from the city, they could probably run the length of the Tour. Reservoir, a spectacular journey by foot or by wheel and a great gateway for a week of exploring during an outdoors break. The final stretch is near and so is Sheffield. So many famous names have heralded from the city, they could probably run the length of the Tour. They include Olympic golden girl Jessica Ennis-Hill, Hollywood A-lister Sean Bean and the Arctic Monkeys. The finale at the Motorpoint Arena will have seen riders arrive in the city which is home to cultural hotbeds such as the Winter Gardens, Millennium Gallery, Crucible Theatre and Kelham Island Museum. It’s arguably global football’s spiritual home by way of Sheffield FC being recognised as the world’s oldest football team. Sheffield is a fitting sporting finale to the world’s largest annual sporting event gracing the county of Yorkshire. To find out more about the Grand Départ go to www.letouryorkshire.com
Côte de Blubberhouses
Bolton Abbey
Knaresborough Start York
Addingham
Silsden
S TAGE TWO
Keighley
Legs of steel will be necessary for contenders who wish to win in Sheffield.
Haworth
An intense contest will start with the climb up Holme Moss and will continue until the top of the final hill with under 5 kilometres to go. This demanding stage features a total of 3400m of uphill. The British version of Liege-Bastogne-Liege!
Côte d'Oxenhope Moor
Hebden Bridge Halifax Cragg Vale Côte de Greetland Côte de Ripponden
Huddersfield
Holmfirth
Côte de Holme Moss
Stage date: 6th July 2014 Stage distance: 200 kilometres For a more detailed map go to www.letouryorkshire.com
Langsett
Woodhead Côte de Midhopestones
Côte d'Oughtibridge Côte de Jenkin Road
Côte de Bradfield Finish Sheffield
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THE PRO'S VIEW
S TAGE T WO A ONE - DAY C LASSIC?
Crosswinds
Does Stage Two deserve to be described as being like a one-day classic? Paul Howard asked Dean and Russell Downing from NFTO Pro Cycling for some answers.
Grand Finale
It’s a Classic
It’s the last 20km or so that gets both brothers most animated. The succession of steep climbs on the outskirts of Sheffield – some again unclassified, such as their favourite, known intimidatingly as Jawbone – is one obvious problem. Dealing with the descents and sharp turns is another. “I overshot on one of these corners, and I should be able to ride it with my eyes shut, it’s that close to home,” Russell recalls. “There’ll be two races going on at this point,” concludes Dean. “One for the stage victory, involving maybe the Classics guys, or perhaps strong domestiques – riders who normally help their leaders - who are given free reign for the day, and one to protect the GC – general classification – riders from losing time to each other. It’s not a day the Tour can be won, but it certainly could be lost.”
Both Downings agree that Stage Two has a different profile that will likely see different tactics and a very different outcome. “This is the one all the riders are talking about,” says Russell. “They’re saying it’s like Liège.” That’s a reference to Liège-Bastogne-Liège, the oldest of the group of relentlessly tough, early season one-day races known as the Classics that complement the Tour’s three-week summer spectacle. The Phoney War The similarity comes in the punishing series of climbs in the second half of the stage. For this reason, Dean sees a more relaxed dynamic in the first hour. “The A59 to start with will most likely be into the wind to an extent, so any breakaway that does go will never get much of a lead. The peloton will just let them go, knowing they’ll come back.”
|NORTH YORKSHIRE
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|WEST YORKSHIRE
85
112,5 119,5
143,5
167 175 182
|SOUTH YORKSHIRE
SHEFFIELD 45m
132m Côte de Jenkin Road
241m Côte d'Oughtibridge
350m Côte de Bradfield
341m Côte de Midhopestones
Dean and Russell Downing were both born in Rotherham. In 2014 they will both ride for new the British-based NFTO Pro Cycling team. Dean has won many major British races, and represented GB at the world track championships in 2004. Russell was National Road Race Champion in 2005, and in 2010 was the first British rider to register a victory (Stage 2 of the Critérium International) for Team Sky, for whom he rode for two years.
521m Côte de Holme Moss
21m YORK
301m Côte de Blubberhouses
431m Côte d'Oxenhope Moor
Up hill and down dale: Profile of the tough climbs the riders face on Stage Two.
200m Côte de Greetland
Instead, the serious action will come about once the road turns south, through Addingham. “What a lot of riders won’t realise is just how many climbs there are from here on in,” Russell points out. “The stage description will say however many categorised climbs, but there’ll be at least as many again that haven’t been categorised and therefore won’t be mentioned.”
Who are the Downing brothers? As a result, it’s here that more serious breakaway attempts are likely to form. In particular, the climb from Oxenhope, though the heart of Brontë country, will be a first significant challenge and platform for long-range riders. Both brothers also anticipate there will be action at the back of the group. “It will be a race of attrition, people will just drop out of the back as the continual climbs take their toll,” says Dean.
252m Côte de Ripponden
Wuthering Heights
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At the front, it’s likely to be a day for Classics specialists and opportunists. “Cragg Vale gets a lot of publicity, but it’s not really that hard,” says Russell. “Unless it’s windy,” points out Dean. “It’s very exposed at the top. Last time I went over, in bad weather, I was down to 10-12 mph because of the wind. If that happens, the race could split up into echelons.” Whether or not the wind plays a part, the punishing climbs – and descents – of Holme Moss and then the Woodhead Pass certainly will. At the back, unlike in the Classics, riders who have done their job can’t get off their bikes and go home. “They’ve got to get to the finish, there’s another 18 days riding to do,” agrees Russell. At the other end, it’s a different matter. “If you’re serious about winning the stage, you have to be at the front at this point.”
193 198 km
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YORKSHIRE FESTIVAL 2014
What better time to celebrate Yorkshire’s fine artistic and cultural talent than this year when the world’s greatest cycle race starts in the county? Yorkshire Festival 2014 – be part of it with Yorkshire Water.
VISION OF A COU N T Y
A
n ambitious and world leading cultural festival will kickstart the celebrations that lead to the Grand Départ of the Tour de France. You wouldn’t expect anything else from a shy and retiring county such as Yorkshire! Over 100 days from March 27th to July 6th Yorkshire will be energised by the arts. Organisations and individuals have come together to create the countywide Yorkshire Festival 2014, a programme of events that will build momentum, spark excitement and stimulate
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your every sense. Expect the county’s landmarks and landscape to be transformed by everything from land art and film, dance and participatory arts, to music, theatre and sculpture. Villages, towns and cities will be animated and celebrated, their place in the programme a source of friendly rivalry and local pride. Gary Verity chief executive of Welcome to Yorkshire which in partnership with Arts Council England, Yorkshire Water and local authorities, created the festival said: “This will be the first time in
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. e r u s t l y u a c d e 0 & v 10 art vati us of inno bitio s. 47 d am sion f an mmiseds o GE co ndr FRIN Hu OVER s . e l s i FANTASTIC t s m s n e a q v l s e 00 ld c 6,0 wor ire of rksh Yolent. ta PART BE IT! H OF MARC 27 6 JULY – 26
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Le Tour’s 111 year history that there’s been a festival of this scale and size celebrating arts and culture. Yorkshire Festival 2014 has inspired the county to get involved and show the world what we’ve got. Not only do we want to put Yorkshire on the international sporting map, we want to make it a culture capital.” Of course, with the cultural credentials of Hepworth, Hockney, Moore, Hughes, Larkin, Bennett and the Brontës, Yorkshire already has a rich seam of creativity coursing through it. So it was no surprise that the quality of submissions was so high, and so exciting. A total of 16 roadshows were rolled out across the county to call on the cultural community to submit a bid to be commissioned and the response was incredible. David Lascelles, 8th Earl of Harewood and chair of the festival steering group said: “The festival is a fantastic opportunity to showcase the world class work and new commissions all across the county.
“ This will be the first time in Le Tour’s 111 year history that there’s been a festival of this scale and size celebrating arts and culture. Not only do we want to put Yorkshire on the international sporting map, we want to make it a culture capital.”
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The response from Yorkshire's artistic community has been wonderful - the tough bit has been deciding what to leave out!” Out of nearly 400 bids, almost 50 events have been selected to be officially part of Yorkshire Festival 2014 and were chosen for their creative imagination. They will fall under three themes. True Grit: the courage and determination evidenced by cyclists, a typical Yorkshire quality and a quality the arts can communicate brilliantly. World Class Yorkshire: celebrates the tremendous arts produced in Yorkshire year in year out. Yorkshire ‘en fete’: sees creative transformations of Yorkshire’s culture, heritage and landscape, urban, rural and coastal, with celebrations of the Grand Départ in our county, of the bicycle and of its green credentials. The festival is raising Yorkshire’s creative profile and developing the programme has already forged new creative collaborations across the county, regionally, nationally and internationally. Several new arts projects created for the festival will travel the globe and Yorkshire will have an iconic, collection of images and film of the county’s landmarks, landscape and heritage transformed by the arts. Yorkshire Water’s investment has enabled Yorkshire Festival 2014 to be even more ambitious in its commissions and delivery. Richard Flint, chief executive of Yorkshire Water, said: “Yorkshire Water is the biggest landowner on the route of the Grand Départ and has already had lots of involvement with community groups looking to stage art and events on our reservoir catchments. It makes absolute sense for us to support this festival and work with the people of the region to deliver the best possible visitor experience. Our land is amongst the most beautiful countryside in the UK and it's only right that we showcase it on one of the biggest global platforms.” 43 million people visit Yorkshire’s cultural attractions every year – that’s four times the number of people who visit the Great Wall of China. Yorkshire Festival 2014 is sure to add to that number so to be a part of the action and say you were there, search Yorkshire Festival on Facebook or follow on Twitter @YFest2014. Yorkshire Festival 2014 runs from March 27 to July 6. For full details of the programme go to www.yorkshirefestival.co.uk
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RIDES
Yorkshire Wolds
Wolds Cycle Route The route Follow the 146 mile circular route around the enchanted rolling hills and coastal cliffs of the Yorkshire Wolds. Discover hidden valleys, wildflowers and wildlife and big skies whilst passing through picturesque villages, including Hunmanby right on the edge of the Yorkshire Wolds, market towns and historic houses and churches. Well signed in both directions as part of the National Cycle Network, the terrain is rolling chalkland, with only a few steep but short climbs and mainly quiet roads and country lanes with some cycle paths. Following the route clockwise is easier. There are tearooms, cafés, pubs and food shops at varying intervals and there are various options for the start and finish, with Beverley, Bridlington, Driffield and Malton all having train stations. You can follow National Route 66 from York for 18 miles to pick the route up at Pocklington.
Yorkshire Coast & Moors
Moor to Sea Network The route A cyclist's dream! Over 100 miles of wonderful pedal-powered freedom, taking you through some of the finest scenery in Britain. The diversity of this landscape is amazing - heather moors, forests, farmland and cliffs overlooking the sea - and along the way many places to stop, rest and take in the views. Crossing the stunning moorlands of North Yorkshire and through beautiful forests to the dramatic heritage coastline, the Moor to Sea cycle route links the towns of Scarborough, Pickering and Whitby in a long distance cycle route. Featuring over 80 miles of forest tracks, lanes, and the former coastal railway, the route can be ridden in stages ranging from easy to more challenging and offers cycle hire on route. Choose from eleven linear routes or take a few days and cycle the entire length.
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BE S T OF THE RE S T
On a bike is one of the best ways to explore Yorkshire’s varied landscapes, stunning scenery, historical sites and legendary landmarks. Whether you’re out for a gentle ride or picking up the pace here are some ideas to get you started. letouryorkshire.com
Yorkshire
Way of the Roses The route The Way of the Roses is a special cycle route that was built to celebrate 15 years of the National Cycle Network. One of Britain's best 'coast-to-coast' routes, this highly popular route runs for 170 miles between Morecambe and Bridlington. It passes through the historic city of York and lesser known gems such as Settle, Pateley Bridge and Ripon. Most cyclists choose to travel from west to east as it often provides a tail wind, but the route is well-signed in both directions. On route, you'll be cycling across a beautiful, changing landscape including the Yorkshire Dales, Nidderdale and the Yorkshire Wolds; using traffic-free paths, on-road cycle lanes, country lanes and quieter roads. It's a rewarding cycle touring holiday or longer vacation, for all and can take anything from 2 days for the keen and able cyclist, to a week for those with a more leisurely pace in mind.
North York Moors
Dalby Forest The route There are a number of trails for all abilities available in Dalby Forest. The newest leg uses forest tracks and part of the old Rosedale railway line, linking Easby on the western fringes with Dalby Forest. Along its 34 miles, there's one tough climb up to the moor top, rewarded with a stunning view. The Blue Cycling Trail is a moderate 8 miles of mixed terrain and steep in places. The Ellerburn Family Cycle Route is an easy family cycle trail, 2.5 miles along fields and Dalby Beck. The Green Cycle Route is 8 miles long, mainly on the high plateau around Adderstone and is a mix of terrain, but is an easy route. The Red Cycle Trail is a hard and long route along a variable terrain of single track with sections of forest road. 21.5 miles in total. The World Cup Cycle Trail is a severe route. Only 4 mile on variable terrain of mainly single trails and some forest roads.
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EXPERIENCE
the ma gic number Yorkshire Trike Tours offer you the chance to experience amazing adventures taking in the beauty of the Yorkshire Dales like you have never done before...on board a Boom Trike. James Ellis says ‘hello’ to the new King of the Mountains.
I
’ve just climbed the Buttertubs Pass, the highest part of a route that Tour de France riders will take on Stage One of the race when it arrives in Yorkshire this summer, and I’ve not even broken into a sweat. The 526m pass which links Swaledale and Wensleydale, takes its name from a number of cooling caverns in the limestone rock which farmers would use as a natural larder on their way to market and is considered one of the most beautiful parts of the Dales. From its bracken-topped summit, the views of the surrounding Dales are magnificent: farmers’ fields roll down the valley like a patchwork quilt stitched together by some of the 5,000 or so miles of drystone walls here and the landscape is dotted with tiny traditional villages, old stone barns, trickling streams and swollen rivers. As we drink in the view in waning sunlight, a breeze causes crops in the field to wave to and fro, creating a shimmer of gold that seems to flow over the landscape. Little wonder that when Le Tour boss Christian Prudhomme awarded the race to ‘God’s Own County’ he said: “I knew Yorkshire, but I did not realise that it was so gorgeous.” When the peloton flashes through here in July 2014, riders will have tackled one of the three King of the Mountains sections of the race’s Stage One from Leeds to Harrogate, and the early runners in search of the famous Yellow Jersey will be starting to emerge. While they’ll be puffing and panting at this point, I’ve had no such trouble thanks to being powered by a 1.6 litre Zetec engine. It’s the same size and type that you’d find in a Ford Focus but I’m not on four wheels, or even two like Le Tour cyclists – I’m on a Boom Trike, a huge three-wheeled beast of a bike with long forks and a laidback riding position. Okay, to say I’m ‘on’ might be overstating my role in our powering to the top – I’m actually sitting on the back of the trike which is being driven by burly biker Jason Richards of Yorkshire Trike Tours, the latest in a number of companies offering visitors the chance to travel uphill and down Dale on the routes Le Tour will take when it hits Yorkshire.
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We’re slightly elevated and free enough, despite the safety belts, to get the kind of panoramic views of the surrounds afforded on a motorbike.
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As we pass down tiny lanes, people ‘ohh’ and ‘ahh’ and a fair few point, while other bikers in the Dales give a reverential nod as they pass, bowing to the more powerful vehicle we’re on.
The custom-built trike is the only one in the country with a special licence for carrying passengers and there are two seats on the back, from which those riding pillion can enjoy the countryside as Jason takes care of the important stuff like steering. Jason – and his wife Judith – gave up their day jobs in early 2013 to set up the company to combine his love of driving trikes with their shared passion for the Dales. The company offers a range of tours around the Dales, from 60 minute samplers to a five-hour marathon that take in the lion’s share of Le Tour’s Stage One and the couple are happy to pick passengers up anywhere from Leeds to North Yorkshire. We decide to start Le Trike Tour at Middleham Castle, the 12th century fort that was childhood home to Richard III, and cover a threehour 50-mile circular stretch past Aysgarth, Askrigg and Hawes, over Buttertubs to Reeth and returning to the castle in late afternoon. As we set off from the castle with a gentle growl of the engine, and roll out of the village and over turreted Middleham Bridge on the River Ure, the advantage of sitting on the back of the trike is immediately apparent. We’re slightly elevated and free enough, despite the safety belts, to get the kind of panoramic views of the surrounds afforded on a motorbike – but have the stability and safety of being in a vehicle the size of a small car. As we pass down tiny lanes, people ‘ohh’ and ‘ahh’ and a fair few point, while other bikers in the Dales give a reverential nod as they pass, bowing to the more powerful vehicle we’re on. When we hit a narrow spot with a car coming in the opposite direction, the driver’s
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face is a picture when Jason throws the trike into reverse and moves to let him pass. At every stop, Jason explains something of the history of the area or details how the Dales were formed by mighty glaciers carving through the landscape in the Ice Age – and whenever we pull into the side of the road, passersby come to take a look. At the rushing, butterscotch coloured Aysgarth Falls, one walker, a lady called Sheila, even jumps on beside me to pose for a photograph. Mid-way through our ride, just as we are starting to feel peckish, Jason pulls up at another jaw-droppingly beautiful spot and pops the trike’s boot open to reveal a wicker hamper packed with crumbly Wensleydale cheese, pork pies from the local butchers and thick, warming potato and leek soup. By evening, Jason and Judith have roared off into the sunset and we are back at our home for the weekend, the Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel & Spa at Bolton Abbey. The hotel – part of the Duke of Devonshire’s estate – is luxurious, but in a comforting, homely way. Waders hang in the hallway for the use of fly fishermen on the River Wharfe and the Dog Lounge has canine print wallpaper and squidgy sofas for those bringing gun dogs for a shoot; the landing pad for
much higher profile visitors than us jokingly has a sign warning that ‘Helicopters and their contents are left at the owner’s risk’. The hotel’s Burlington Restaurant has recently lost its Michelin star in the 2014 guide thanks a change of chef, but new kid on the block Adam Smith seems in a rush to win it back. We sample an incredible eight-course ‘surprise’ taster menu with dishes such as marinated scallops and honey-glazed duck for just £75 a head, with matching wines selected by sommelier Nigel Fairclough for a further £50. It's the kind of meal that’s fit enough for a champion. Move over Sir Bradley, there’s a new King of the Mountains.
Need to know The tour Yorkshire Trike Tours (0113 258 5055, yorkshiretriketours.co.uk) offers tours of the Dales from £74 per person. The Tour de France five-hour trip is £225 per person, including a picnic lunch. The hotel James was a guest of the Devonshire Arms (01756 710441, thedevonshirearms.co.uk). One night’s dinner, bed and breakfast with dinner in The Burlington is from £262 per double room.
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Clockwise from top left: Share the effort with a tandem tour. Munch your way through the route. Save your legs with an e-bike.
OTHER LE TOUR TOURS Yorkshire Trike Tours isn’t the only way to enjoy an alternative day out around the Tour de France route, these other Yorkshire companies will also take you on and off road. Eat your way around Yorkshire The Dales aren’t only famed for their beauty and undulating cyclefriendly roads, there’s great grub too. Sample Yorkshire charcuterie, wines and cheeses on a two-day Taste the Tour cycle ride with Yorkshire Food Finder. The price of the tour is £395 per person, including B&B accommodation, cycle hire and plenty of refueling stops. 01904 448439 www.yorkshirefoodfinder.org Go by e-bike Save your legs on those famed uphill stretches of Le Tour’s route by flicking a switch to turn on an electric motor on your bike and eat away the miles like a true champ. e-bikes offers a number of tours around the Dales from £35 with the Wharfedale Wobble and Buttertubs or Bust routes taking in the best bits of Stage One. 01539 568163 www.e-bikehire.com
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Save your legs on those famed uphill stretches of Le Tour’s route by flicking a switch and eat away the miles. A problem shared… There’s no doubt you can half the effort of a tour by teaming up on a tandem. JD Tandems offers tandem hire from £50 per couple and the store is just a short ride from both Yorkshire stages of the Grand Départ. 01756 748400 www.tandems.co.uk Trott Le Tour Saddle up some horsepower and see the Dales from the back of a trusty steed. Draughton Riding Centre offers group trips from £25 an hour or £55 for five hours. Riders need to be comfortable with reaching a canter on their horse. 01756 710242 www.draughtonridingcentre.com
Head off road Cyclists who are not on mountain bikes will obviously want to keep to the asphalt but that doesn't mean you have to do the same. Yorkshire 4x4 Tours will take you off-piste and across rugged countryside in customised Land Rovers that eat up the terrain. Trips start in Bainbridge and cost £50 per vehicle for two people. 01757 638479 www.yorkshire4x4tours.com Le Tour à Pied Starting at Langsett you can enjoy the stunning scenery of Stage Two with a self-guided walk of just over 14 miles. The route is approximately parallel to that taken by the Tour de France as it skirts Stocksbridge. www.stocksbridge-walkers.org.uk
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“Yorkshire is the home county of my mother, I love it. It’s a beautiful place, one of the most beautiful places in the world. It’s going to be an amazing start to the Tour de France. ”
Mark Cavendish: winner of 25 Tour de France stages.
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For almost a century, as Castle Howard station, it was the Howard family’s gateway to the rest of Britain, and the place where Queen Victoria once arrived for a two-night stay at their grander-thangrand place.
Castle Howard is a historic estate, house and gardens.
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ACCOMMODATION
TRAVEL IN TIME Stephen McClarence explores an ancient station with royal connections and is happy to be delayed a few nights.
P
ootling through Yorkshire, we reckon we’ll soon need to turn off the A64. But where? I check the directions that Platform 1, our base for the weekend, has sent us. “Start looking for a crossroads,” they say. “The road sign, right, indicates a dead end. We are the dead end.” Platform 1 hasn’t always been a dead end. For almost a century, as Castle Howard station, it was the Howard family’s gateway to the rest of Britain, and the place where Queen Victoria once arrived for a two-night stay at their grander-than-grand place. The station closed to passenger services in 1930, though for many years the Howards reserved the right to flag down passing trains. It carried on as a freight station – in Victorian times it unloaded supplies for farmers and works of art for Castle Howard – but it finally closed in 1959, pre-empting Beeching. It’s actually a good three miles from the big house, as my wife and I discover as we turn off the A64 and drive down a long narrow lane through woodland bright with wood anemones. “Slow please,” says a sign outside a cottage. “Small boy playing.” At the bottom of the lane is an enchanting honeystoned building with a trim balcony overhanging what used to be the platform. It’s such an ornate building, and so Italianate, that it looks more like a villa in the Tuscan hills than a railway station in rural North Yorkshire.
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Source: Private Collection
Top to bottom: Next stop Castle Howard Station. This wonderful lithograph of a painting by Clough Taylor c. 1850 shows a train leaving nearby Kirkham Priory and following the River Derwent through the Vale of Kirkham. The scene is almost identical today. Taking the dog for a walk along Station Road.
Anne Collins is here to greet us. She and her husband, Edmund, live in one half of the building and they’ve converted the other half into Platform 1, a self-catering holiday let that sleeps four. The old waiting room has become the dining/sitting room, the ladies’ waiting room is now the kitchen, the hall used to be the ladies’ toilet and the bedroom was the gents, though you’d never guess (you know what I mean).
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It’s been done in great style, with under-floor heating, a wood-burning stove, wooden shutters, a well-equipped kitchen and plenty of framed timetables, old photographs and posters. “Just the ticket for a first-class holiday break with a difference,” the Collinses say, and they’re absolutely right: calm, seclusion, and you can watch wood-peckers on the bird-feeder. “I thought when we opened that it would all be train enthusiasts who’d come to stay,” says Anne. “But it hasn’t
been… and I’ve become a bit of a train enthusiast myself.” Halfway through that sentence, there’s a distant hooting, then a low rumble, and then…whoosh, the 15.48 from Scarborough to York and Liverpool roars past, 15 ft from the window. We soon get used to this. The trains from York pass more or less on the hour; the ones from Scarborough at about quarter-past. We generally try to be outside to wave; just to be chummy, just to be middle-aged Railway Children. Otherwise, only birdsong disturbs the startling quiet down here. In late evening, we listen to the owls, hooting like trains as they hunt. The Noise Abatement Society should do something about the deafening dawn chorus, though. Strange to think that Queen Victoria walked through here in 1850. The Illustrated London News gave a vivid account of her carriage drive to Castle Howard. “At the most convenient points along the route,” it noted, “the peasantry were collected to see their Queen, who acknowledged very graciously their simple-hearted demonstrations of loyalty.” Next morning, we retrace Queen Victoria’s route, through gateways and past obelisks. Castle Howard – Yorkshire’s Versailles, as it’s been
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GARDENS
Top to bottom: A grand exterior at Castle Howard Station. Reminders of the past around the house and garden.
called – surveys a perfect landscaped estate, a great triumph of geometry over nature. As for the house itself: “The North will never be dull as long as it has Castle Howard,” Simon Jenkins, the chairman of the National Trust, has enthused. “Jaw-droppingly vulgar,” sniffed a 2009 visitor, and to the house’s credit, it quotes the comment in a display. Guided by rope barriers, we drift through one plush, art-stacked room
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We soon get used to the trains but The Noise Abatement Society should do something about the deafening dawn chorus.
after another and wonder, in our simple-hearted peasantish way, if all this wasn’t just created as a stage set for wealth and ostentation. Malton, five miles up the road, is a very different affair: a lively, unpretentious market town with plenty of locally owned. The most intriguing is G. Woodall & Sons, “rope, net & cover makers”, here since 1884. It offers spools of polished flax, tins of hoof tar, Barbour repair kits, and some things you could never imagine.
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This page clockwise from top left: Memorabilia in the station gardens. The Station Master with his faithful dog. Traditional entrance to the unique accommodation.
A mile down the line is Kirkham Priory. Few ruins can have such a picturesque setting. “We sell tarpaulin covers for 54ft potato graders pulled by tractors,” says the man behind the counter, “and prolapse harnesses for sheep.” I ask his name. “I’m known as Winston,” he says, very dry. His surname? “Winston’ll do.” Malton has plenty of foodie shops, the stylishly refurbished Talbot Hotel, and Scrooge’s Counting House, a well-researched visitor centre in the offices that may have inspired A Christmas Carol. Dickens visited Malton when his brother Alfred, a civil engineer, was based in the town when he was helping to build the very railway line that we’re staying alongside. This is a good place to base yourself for visiting a great swath of Yorkshire: York, of course, Scarborough, Helmsley (charming), Pickering (with North Yorkshire Moors Railway trips to Whitby), the brooding North York Moors themselves, the more lyrical Yorkshire Wolds. But we don’t stray far. A mile down the line is Kirkham Priory. Few ruins can have such a picturesque setting: river, gracious arching bridge, wooded hillside, copses, winding hedge-rowed lanes, farms. Families picnic in the meadows and wave as trains pass. It’s good to know we’re not the only Railway Children round here. To find out more about accommodation in Yorkshire go to www.yorkshire.com/accommodation
Need to know Stephen McClarence was a guest of Platform 1 castlehowardstation.com which has three-night, self-catering weekend breaks, or four-night weekday ones, from £290. Full weeks cost from £495. The original version of this feature appeared in The Times.
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Accommodation with a difference 1
Settle-Carlisle line This famously scenic line features self-catering breaks at three working stations - Dent, England’s highest mainline station, Kirkby Stephen and Long Marton station.
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Rowley Manor, Beverley This fine Georgian grade II listed building was the rectory to St Peters Church, Rowley and now offers a country house welcome, combined with fine food and excellent service.
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Raithwaite Hall, nr Whitby Stay at The Keep on the Raithwaite Estate and discover 28 rooms, all designed and imaginatively decorated to offer a welcoming and homely atmosphere for all guests.
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The Old Station, Pickering Stay in one of three first class train carriages, all refurbished to offer self catering for guests. There are two acres of grounds with open countryside beyond.
© georginaharrisonphotography.co.uk
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Carlton Towers, Carlton This privately owned Victorian Gothic style Yorkshire stately home with luxury accommodation is set within 250 acres of parkland in the beautiful Yorkshire landscape.
Top to bottom: Be swept away by the luxurious surroundings of Raithwaite Hall. A stay at Middlethorpe Hall is time well spent.
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Bivouac at Druid's Temple, Masham Based in woodland at the 20,000 acre Swinton Estate, the Bivouac is a series of rustic shacks and a Druid’s Temple, a local historical site and impressive folly.
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Westwood Christian Centre, Huddersfield Set spectacularly high on a hill above Slaithwaite near Huddersfield. The whole centre can be hired out and is set in beautiful grounds with wonderful views.
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Middlethorpe Hall, York The 300th anniversary of Lady Mary WortleyMontagu moving in to Middlethorpe Hall was marked in 2013. There she would entertain distinguished guests.
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WELCOME TO THE DALES AND HERRIOT COUNTRY
V IBRANT VALLEYS The Yorkshire Dales and the towns of Herriot Country are a place of beauty, grandeur, and tranquility. Enjoy endless walks, the challenges of the hills and the history of the market towns. Clockwise from left: Amazing views at Gunnerside in Swaledale. The Wensleydale Creamery at Hawes. The stunning limestone pavement at Malham.
Northallerton, Easingwold, Great Ayton, Stokesley and Bedale with its quirky accommodation at the Camp Katur Glamping Village, is Herriot Country. Perhaps best known as home of renowned vet James Herriot, Thirsk is a traditional Yorkshire market town, with a medieval cobbled market square and historic coaching inns.
Essential experiences 1 The Yorkshire Dales and Herriot Country, is home to outstanding scenery, a rich cultural heritage and a breathtakingly peaceful atmosphere. With miles of hills, moorland and mountains to explore in the Yorkshire Dales, you can walk, cycle or ride to your heart's content. Take it up a gear on one of the mountain biking trails with Dales Bike Centre in Reeth and when night draws in, head for the villages of Reeth, Grinton or Gunnerside. The delightful market town of Hawes is home to Wensleydale Cheese from the Wensleydale Creamery Visitor Centre and the renowned Dales Countryside Museum. See how the twist is put in at the Ropemakers or visit the many antique and speciality shops, and restaurants, not forgetting Tennants Auctioneers in Leyburn. See chocolate being tempered and moulded at the Little Chocolate Shop in the market town of Leyburn, and visit its celebrated Friday market or imagine yourself tucking into some quality dales food at the Blue Lion Inn
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at nearby East Witton, which holds the title of ‘The Good Pub Guide Inn of the Year 2014’. Travel a short distance to Middleham and stop by at the largest castle keep in the North of England or visit the vibrant market town of Richmond, with its impressive castle keep and cobbled market place. Located against the awe-inspiring backdrop of Ingleborough, one of the famous Three Peaks, Ingleton has to be the outdoor adventure centre of The Dales. Explore a trio of scenic destinations in the Dales including Malham Cove, Malham Tarn, and Gordale Scar. The Yorkshire Dales National Park Centre in Grassington is a great starting point for anyone wanting to make the most of this beautiful area, including the bustling town of Settle, famous for its lively outdoor market and breath-taking railway line. Covering sweeping hills and the rich valleys of the world famous North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales, to the charming market towns and picturesque villages of Thirsk,
Forbidden Corner A unique labyrinth of tunnels, chambers, follies and surprises created in a 4-acre garden.
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The Station, Richmond A modern, two-screen cinema; an art gallery, a free heritage centre and much more
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Kettlewell Scarecrow Festival Follow the theme of the trail to take you round this idyllic Yorkshire village.
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Northallerton market A wide range of goods and produce, with a farmers market on the fourth Wednesday of the month.
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Malham Cove An 80 metres high and 300 metres wide curved crag of limestone formed after the last ice age.
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ACCOMMODATION
Rooms at the Inn
Pubs with rooms offer the ultimate stay; great food, real ale and a warm bed within staggering distance. Yorkshire has them in abundance and better still, it has the best in Britain after the Blue Lion in East Witton was named Good Pub Guide Inn of the Year 2014. Jo Francisco went along to find out their secret to success.
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hen Helen and Paul Klein were an energetic 20-something couple, they took on a challenge most would wince at. Armed with a toddler, three years pub experience and big dreams, they bought a rundown empty pub, gathering dust in a sleepy North Yorkshire village. The six-bedroom 18th century coaching inn had been in a family for generations with the last landlady scuttling to the cellar with a jug to serve the beer. “There was one toilet between six bedrooms and no electric lights,” explained Helen. “Nothing had been done for 100 years. It had been in a family for generations and the last tenant had gone into a nursing home and had died before we took it over.” A major revamp ensued, bedrooms were rewired, bathrooms were fitted in each and a new kitchen and bar were installed. Paul’s parents had run hotels before but Helen had no catering experience before the couple met. “Paul knew what he wanted to do with the place and he did it,” said Helen. “At the time nowhere else served food like we were serving. Now we have lots of pubs serving fantastic food. People didn’t think it would work when we started out… and of course, it did!” The couple, who have two children now aged 26 and 20, worked hard to build up a reputation and to keep customers coming back. Twenty three years on, the Blue Lion - which sits inconspicuously in the heart of East Witton - boasts the prestigious Good Pub Guide Inn of the Year. It has also won Dining Pub of the Year three times and has the seal of approval from a string of celebs including Daniel Craig, Kate Winslet, Prince Charles, Janet Street-Porter and Jamie Oliver, who have all paid a visit. “The number one thing here is the food. It’s top quality but in a homely way,” said Helen. A chalk board sits above a roaring fire in the bar area where tables are full of customers tucking into beautifully
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presented lunches. This isn’t pea on a plate stuff either. Steaming plates of steak and kidney suet pudding and poached seafood medley float past and it’s clear that this is the place to come to for that extra special meal. It’s platefuls of the Yorkshire Dales with a seasonal twist. Paul’s even been known to shoot grouse in the morning, for it to be served on the table for lunch. Shooting parties are a regular fixture here, it’s a popular pit stop for walkers and Londoners love the country feel that is perfectly encapsulated in its style, décor, atmosphere and food. And after a hearty meal, it’s pretty tough to tear away from the Blue Lion’s warm, comforting embrace. A popular view it seems as demand has grown to stay over to such a degree that there are now 15 bedrooms, after the stables outside were also renovated. The rooms vary in size but all maintain that traditional, homely feel and dogs are allowed in the bar and the rooms. “Places are going contemporary but what people come here for is that home from home feel, they want traditional and they don’t want us to change it. ” said Helen clutching a bunch of bedroom keys all attached to cricket balls. “Ah – that’s so guests don’t go home with them,” she says. “But they still do!” Nice touch. And it’s these little details that make the Blue Lion a bit special. It has soared in an era when rural pubs have been hit hard - first with foot and mouth, the smoking ban and then the recession. “It’s a tough industry and you’ve got to work hard to stand out,” said Helen. “It used to be big to stay in pubs but then in the 90s pubs began closing down and they could not fill the rooms. We have managed to get through those times.” The Blue Lion is not just a survivor but a major success story, not least down to a couple who have grown up there – along with its guests. To find out about more of Yorkshire's fantastic pubs with rooms go to www.yorkshire.com/pubswithrooms
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10 Yorkshire pubs with rooms
iIn no particular order, a selection iof the county’s beds with beers
iWhite Horse Farm Inni iRosedale, North Yorkshirei
iShibden Mill Inni inear Halifax, West Yorkshirei
iThe Pipe and Glass Inni inear Beverley, East Yorkshirei
iThe Star at Haromei inear Helmsley, North Yorkshirei
Yorke Arms
iRamsgill, North Yorkshirei
Durham Ox
iCrayke, North Yorkshirei
The Dog & Partridge Inn iBarnsley, South Yorkshirei
The White Horse & Griffin iWhitby, North Yorkshirei
Olive Branch Inn iMarsden, West Yorkshirei
The Charles Bathurst Inn iReeth, North Yorkshirei
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Main picture: The stunning East Yorkshire coastline near Flamborough. Opposite from left: Building sandcastles in Bridlington. The Deep in Hull. The Yorkshire Wolds. CafĂŠ culture in Hull.
DEEP SEAS & HIGH SKIES From the historic maritime city of Hull to the undulating hills and valleys of the Yorkshire Wolds, and the beautiful sandy beaches of Bridlington, East Yorkshire is wonderfully eclectic. At its heart lies a serene landscape of swirling grasslands, medieval towns and manor houses that remain refreshingly unchanged.
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Images © Visit Hull and East Yorkshire
WELCOME TO HULL & EAST YORKSHIRE
This lovely corner of England boasts a vibrant city, colourful seaside resorts, a jaw-dropping coastline and miles of tranquil countryside. Exciting, eclectic and entertaining. Hull will be the next UK City of Culture in 2017 and has enjoyed a huge growth in its cultural offer. There is such a wealth of different cultural activities and events to enjoy, from Ferens Art Gallery with its internationally significant exhibitions, to home grown Humber Street Sesh alongside the hugely popular Freedom Festival to name just a few. Add to this venues like FRUIT, born out of the disused fruit market area and a blank canvas for comedy, dance, music, theatre and gaming, and each year at the University of Hull, the Faculty of Arts and Social Sciences hosts an exciting range of events. Not forgetting public lectures in the arts, music concerts, poetry readings, book launches and drama performances. Explore cobbled streets that transport visitors back to days gone by in Hull’s Old Town. Visit the Museums Quarter, home to four of Hull’s museums, and plot the city’s course through the history books. The old High Street was once the medieval hub of the city, where quaint old buildings and olde-worlde pubs have stood for years. The new pedestrian swing bridge in the Old Town connects the East and West banks of the River Hull and is unique in that you can ride it while it opens to allow boats to pass! The bridge opens up to The Deep, where you will be whisked down to the bottom of the deep blue sea and get introduced to its many inhabitants.
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Essential experiences 1
RSPB Bempton Cliffs Over 200,000 nesting seabirds, including gannets and puffins, from April - September.
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Wolds Edge A lovingly handcrafted shepherd's hut ideal for cyclists or perfect for a weekend away.
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Big Skies Bike Rides Eight OS-mapped circular day rides on quiet roads and country lanes around the Yorkshire Wolds.
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8 FREE Museums & Galleries Including Ferens Gallery, the Spurn Lightship and William Wilberforce House.
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The Yorkshire Wolds Way A 79-mile walking route through rolling hills starting from the banks of the River Humber.
This spring sees the arrival of some VIP residents at The Deep in Hull… that’s Very Important Penguins! The colony of Gentoo penguins will be taking up residence in The Kingdom of Ice. In the evening Hull Old Town is the place to be for eating and drinking. Choose from relaxing pints in atmospheric real ale pubs or check out the trendy bar scene that comes alive at night. Whatever your ideal evening involves, the Trinity Quarter has something that is guaranteed to appeal.
The stunning market town of Beverley has beauty in abundance; with an awe-inspiring Minster, historical buildings, cobbled streets, and small town charm, there is something for everyone. Towering 30 metres above the River Humber, the 2,220 metre long Humber Bridge has a walkway for a family stroll that’s out of this world. If you’re looking for a leisurely day out, how about visiting the elegant promenades of bright and breezy Bridlington? This traditional seaside resort is home to award winning beaches, a 900-year-old working harbour and the recently renovated Bridlington Spa complex hosting a variety of performers. Whilst there, follow the Bridlington Old Town Trail and explore the fine heritage landmarks along the way. The Yorkshire Wolds has a rich heritage with ancient landmarks, deserted medieval villages, many fine churches and splendid grand houses. It could have been made for cycling, walking, picnics and exploring. Life in the Wolds is luxuriously slow. From the unhurried Elizabethan elegance of Burton Agnes and Burton Constable, to the simple pleasures of historic Howden, Hedon and Pocklington, this relaxing region makes it easy to unwind. Potter in the pretty medieval streets of Beverley, listen to authentic chamber music or discover fantastic shopping in the Georgian Quarter. Take in the 'capital', Driffield, and the peaceful riverhead. Shop for local crafts and delicious local produce in the bustling street markets or take a step back from day to day life and retreat to the countrified calm of Sledmere House. From coastal retreats to countryside cottages, luxurious country house hotels to cosy farmhouse B&Bs, caravans to contemporary waterfront warehouse conversions; wherever you choose, you can be sure of a warm East Yorkshire welcome every time.
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CITY LIFE
ACCESS ALL AREAS As the county raises the curtain on its latest arena, the stage is set for the world’s biggest and best to grace God's Own County.
“ Bruce seemed to love it, it was a very personal thing for him.”
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W
ithout warning the house lights burst into life and illuminate the entire venue like a beacon. It’s the inaugural gig at the first direct arena, Leeds, and a chap called Bruce Springsteen is stood on stage halfway through a show. As the megastar peers up at the 13,000 or so captivated gig goers, the staff’s hearts are in mouths as they fear the worst has happened for the big opening. But panic gives way to epic relief – the man himself was behind the arena-wide illumination. Bruce just wanted to see the audience. That’s why they call him The Boss. Dealing with the A-list and everything inbetween is all in a day’s work for Ben Williams, general manager of the new £60million SMGrun venue. As GM, he is custodian of the entire building, much like a landlord, readying it for tenants. Except this isn’t a student house, but a nightly home to some of the planet’s biggest stars. Since it opened its doors in July 2013, the super theatre-style arena has welcomed acts including Sir Elton John, The Kaiser Chiefs and Rod Stewart. Oh, and of course The Boss,
which Ben will always remember. “The house lights went up and hearts stopped,” recalls Ben. “We thought it was a fault, but it became evident very quickly that the call had come from the show. They left the lights up for 20 minutes which I’ve never seen before and maybe never again – he wanted to see the audience. It was a heart-in-mouth moment with a global superstar on stage. “But Bruce genuinely seemed to love it, it was a very personal thing for him. He was taking requests from the audience and there was a lot of audience interaction.” And after night one, the super theatre had a super-sized thumbs up. “Bruce said I ‘love your room’ and said it was impossible to play a bad note, and ‘you have a lovely venue’. Rod put us in his top two in the world as a venue to play,” said Ben. Not bad going then. He adds: “More than that, it’s the feedback from people visiting especially when they say things like ‘you have friendly staff’ and that’s really important to me. “It puts a broad smile on your face. But the overriding feelings after big openings and events are elation and relief.”
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Š Yorkshire Post Newspapers
Bruce Springsteen rocked at the first direct arena in Leeds.
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Yorkshire has more than enough gig-goers to fill up two arenas rather than leaking numbers to places like Manchester.
These days, major venues must be more than just seats with a stage for amps and guitars. Comedy, darts and wrestling all form part of the upcoming bill at the first direct arena. It also hosted BBC’s Sports Personality of the Year, something which has been in the pipeline for SMG – the Leeds City Council-owned arena’s operator – for a while. Ben said: “SPOTY was an ambition of SMG and Leeds City Council’s and that partnership brought it here. SMG has a long standing relationship with the BBC and SPOTY is a conversation that’s been going on for years.” Given his experience of live venues, the music business and operating an arena, it’s fair to say the father-of-three’s passion is music. That and football, for the Manchester City fan. And if handed a time machine and suitcase of cash, speaking as the man and not the boss, Ben would happily see some interesting line ups on his stage. “If I could choose anyone, just me as me, I’d say because they hardly ever played together it would be Electronic. There you’ve got elements of The Smiths, New Order and even Pet Shop Boys rolled into one super group. “The Beatles, obviously, for being The Beatles and then maybe Noel Gallagher and friends!” Whether Ben gets his dream team line-up or not, the arena promises to host some of the biggest and best musical names on the planet. Down the M1 to Sheffield, and the city’s Motorpoint Arena has already made its name internationally for doing just that. Given Yorkshire is the UK’s biggest county, it has more than enough gig-goers to fill up two arenas rather than leaking numbers to places like Manchester and Newcastle. The Sheffield venue has recently seen a multi-million pound investment made into the arena replacing all its 12,500 seats, installing
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Clockwise from top left: Unique architecture. World class acts such as Sir Elton John. Aerial view. The external honeycomb design features a unique ever-changing LED lighting system to bring the building to life at night. The audience loved Rod Stewart and an energetic performance from Vampire Weekend. The Arena Quarter by night.
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The arena promises to host some of the biggest and best musical names on the planet. Noel Gallagher started writing the song the night before and finished it in the Sheffield dressing room before blasting it out on stage. Indeed, Tina Turner played her last ever arena gig there. Some claim to fame. 2014 promises to bring a whole new meaning to the phrase “arena tour” with the Tour de France Team
Presentation being held at Leeds’ first direct arena and the finale of the Yorkshire stage culminating in Sheffield at the Motorpoint Arena. We wonder how long it will be before Yorkshire is dubbed the Arena Capital of the UK? To find out more about events in Yorkshire go to www.yorkshire.com/events
© Yorkshire Post Newspapers
a new roof, toilets and food kiosks. In its 23 year history, the arena has witnessed some landmark moments etched in history. A Manc Britpop band going by the name of Oasis played their first ever arena gig there in April 1995. Legend has it that before playing the track ‘What's The Story, Morning Glory?’ for the first time ever that night,
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WELCOME TO HARROGATE & SURROUNDING MARKET TOWNS
Left to right: Brimham Rocks is an amazing collection of weird and wonderful natural rock formations. Visitors at the Temple of Fame, Studley Royal Water Garden.
CHARM & ELEGANCE Essential experiences 1
Ripon Cathedral Dating from the 12th century, the building was substantially rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries.
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Harrogate Festival Each July Harrogate presents a month long festival of internationally acclaimed music.
3 Main images: © National Trust Images/ Paul Harris and John Millar
Lightwater Valley Theme Park Simply bursting with actionpacked adventures, from Raptor Attack to Whirlwind.
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Nidderdale Llamas Lead your Llama out amidst the beautiful Nidderdale Countryside, whilst he carries your picnic!
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RHS Garden Harlow Carr Wander through the tranquil surroundings of this stunning 58 acre garden.
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History, artistry and indulgence are all available in the heart of Yorkshire at Harrogate and its neighbouring market towns. Expect exquisite gardens, beautiful parks, tree-lined boulevards and a chance to lose yourself in vibrant charm and elegance. Superb shopping, extensive modern-day spa facilities, dozens and dozens of places to eat and drink and accommodation ranging from bed and breakfast to luxury boutique hotels, make Harrogate a great place to relax. Holidaying horticulturalists are in heaven in Harrogate with Valley Gardens and the adjacent Pinewoods comprising about 17 acres. An area rich with heritage, you can choose from 700-year-old Ripley Castle owned by generations of the same family for all that time; Allerton Castle, one of England’s most important gothic revival stately homes; the World Heritage Site of Fountains Abbey, or Britain’s finest Robert Adam interiors at Newby Hall. Ripon boasts a grand market square, its own Hornblower and the district’s only cathedral. Boating on the river and shopping at the market are just a few of the attractions of Knaresborough; however, best known may be Mother Shipton’s Cave and the Petrifying Well.
The thriving market town of Masham is possibly most famous for its two breweries, Theakstons and Black Sheep. Visitors can even stay in a luxury castle hotel at Swinton Park. Over in Boroughbridge, a pivotal point on the Way of the Roses cycle route, delight in a thriving High Street with individual and boutique shops. Besides Harrogate town centre, find super shops in the Montpellier Mews, Westminster Arcade and West Park areas. Don’t miss Knaresborough’s High Street and Market Square - nor Darley Mill, Pateley Bridge High Street or Ripon’s Handpicked Hall. This beautiful part of Yorkshire has many excellent restaurants. From the delicious food at Vennell’s in Masham and the Clock Tower at Rudding Park, to the traditional yet contemporary feel of Lockwoods in Ripon. Don't forget to leave space for Bettys Café Tea Rooms. Outdoor lovers will be spoilt for choice. Pateley Bridge sits in an area of outstanding natural beauty, nearby Brimham Rocks is a fascinating spectacle of natural rock formations and How Stean Gorge is a dramatic limestone cleft that plummets over 80 feet.
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WELCOME TO the yorkshire coast
WATER WORLD Winding 50 miles along the Eastern edge of Yorkshire is some of the most picturesque, accessible and event-filled coastline in the whole of the UK. Discover a world of beauty and unspoilt treasures. From sandy beaches to working harbours and brightly coloured fishing boats, from imposing abbeys to quaint coastal villages, and from bustling seafood markets to the UK’s most delicious fish and chips, this is the stunning Yorkshire Coast. Scarborough, regarded as the world's first seaside resort, Whitby, with its Gothic charm and quaint streets and Filey, with its endless sands and stunning views attract millions of visitors every year. At Robin Hood’s Bay, forget the deckchairs and dodgems; this is Yorkshire’s coastline at its most raw and elemental. Expect brooding cliffs, tumbling cottages and miles of breath-taking scenery. Once one of the largest fishing ports on the North East coast, Staithes’ towering cliffs, quaint, higgledy-piggledy cottages and winding streets lend it the air of a place lost in time. With its sweeping, sheltered bay and collection of charming red roofed cottages and tiny pedestrian lanes, Runswick Bay is an idyllic destination. The coast is brimming with heritage and culture so why not visit Rotunda Museum, North Yorkshire Moors Railway or Scarborough Maritime Heritage Centre. Make sure to visit Whitby Abbey and Scarborough Castle. Enjoy all year round events such as Jazz and Cricket Festivals, Filey Food Festival and Muston Scarecrow Festival. See outstanding wildlife at Filey Brigg and Scarborough's Sea Life Centre and go hunting for fossils on the Jurassic Coast! Enjoy a night of drama at the Stephen Joseph Theatre, home of playwright Sir Alan Ayckbourn, or head to Europe's biggest Open Air Theatre to experience big live acts or to Scarborough Spa to see the last remaining Seaside Orchestra. Don't miss the many stunning parks and gardens such as Pannett Park,
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Peasholm Park and Crescent Gardens. Freshen up on Cleveland Way National Trail or bike along the old railway line on The Cinder Track. For all your surfing needs visit Dexter’s Surf Shop, Secret Spot Surf Shop and Scarborough Surf School or Whitby Surf School. For a great dining experience try Cliffemount in Runswick Bay, Estbek House in Sandsend or 1881 Restaurant at Wrea Head Hall. Scarborough boasts many fantastic restaurants including Lazenby’s, Jeremy's and award winning Eat Me, and for fine Italian try Lanterna or Tricolos.
Essential experiences 1
SEA LIFE Scarborough Enjoy a hands-on rockpool experience and learn about the underwater world.
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Award winning beaches Some of the best beaches in the world including a 5 mile stretch of golden sand at Filey Beach.
Top to bottom: Robin Hood's Bay, Yorkshire Coast. Whitby Abbey. The 199 steps leading to St. Mary's Church from Whitby.
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Captain Cook Memorial Museum In the 17th century house in Whitby where Captain Cook trained as a seaman.
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Scarborough’s Rotunda Museum Explore modern interactive displays to learn about fascinating Geology.
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Scarborough Spa and Whitby Pavilion Multi-purpose venues where you can see big names from comedy to variety shows.
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DELICIOUS
HERE'S TOMMY
At just 24, Tommy Banks is believed to be one of the youngest chefs in the country to run a Michelin starred restaurant. We find out how a crippling illness transformed him from teenage tyke to Head Chef of The Black Swan at Oldstead.
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or a youngster who was banned from his food technology classes at school because “I was a little bit disruptive”, it is incredible to believe that Tommy Banks is now head chef at Yorkshire’s newest Michelin Starred restaurant. “I wasn’t a bad lad but I was always on report. I didn’t do any homework from Year 7,” he chuckles. “I just wasn’t really interested in school.” Instead Tommy’s passion was sport, particularly cricket and he still plays for a local team on a Wednesday night. Despite a lack of academic interest, Tommy left Easingwold Secondary School with ten GCSEs and ambitions of becoming a sporting superstar. But these were put on the backburner when parents Anne and Tom bought a derelict pub just a stone’s throw from the family farm on the cusp of the North York Moors National Park. After months of renovation works, The Black Swan was born, a stunning restaurant with four bedrooms. Tommy – then aged just 17 - went to work in the kitchen as a junior while older brother James headed up front of house. He admits that those early days were hard, working long shifts, sacrificing a social life and not knowing what he wanted to do career-wise. “The first year or so here did feel like I missed out but after a few years you don’t mind. My mates were doing 9 – 5 jobs, five days a week and a lot went to uni. You’ve got to make a real effort in this industry to make sure you see your friends.” Little did he know, life was about to change forever. “I got quite ill at 18 and if I’m honest before then, I was working but I really didn’t know what I wanted to do. At 16 your priorities are not geared towards work. You want to go out and play sport, get drunk and chase girls. When I got ill I realised how much I wanted to be a chef.” Tommy had been struck down with colitis, a painful inflammation of the colon which resulted in three major operations and six months off work. “I am fit and well and fine now but when you have been very ill you stop taking everything for granted. You feel like you want to achieve something more than maybe you did before.” Tommy was ill for nearly two years in total before recovering. “I started reading a lot of cook books, chef autobiographies like Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White and watching cooking programmes. I was so determined
“ At 16 your priorities are not geared towards work. When I got ill I realised how much I wanted to be a chef.”
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to get back to work, I came in nine days after major surgery. I wasn’t strong enough but I didn’t want to mope about. I was fed up of being ill at home.” Tommy jokes that his illness was almost ‘what I needed’ but it’s clear it was in fact a huge turning point in his life. “I remember working really hard as soon as I came back from being ill and then being gutted as I had to go back into surgery. I kept thinking how quickly can I get back into the kitchen.” With unstinting support from wife and childhood sweetheart Laura, Tommy went back into the kitchen, building up his strength and knowledge as the team grew and The Black Swan’s reputation flourished. The team scrapped the fish and chip style pub food and took the menu to whole new levels, creating seven courses with matching wines as well as affordable a la Carte. “We wanted to create more of an experience, we started doing tasting menus and people started coming for a whole evening.” Awards began to flow in with The Black Swan gaining 3 AA Rosettes and a Michelin Star in 2011. As the business grew so did Tommy’s ambitions and he organised unpaid work experience at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir in Oxford and with Galvin Restaurants, a family run collection of French restaurants run by Michelin-starred chef brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin. “This industry is great for people passing on their knowledge to each other as it’s the only way you can learn and progress. We get quite a few lads asking for work experience here and we say absolutely. If you’ve got
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someone who’s paying for their travel and accommodation, you want to show them everything you can.” Tommy took over the reins as head chef from Adam Jackson in Summer 2013, just weeks after his 24th birthday. Working up to 15 hours a day, he heads up a team of seven who he credits for their inspiration and passion. They devise and develop dishes between them, with Tommy preferring light, seasonal dishes “which leave you wanting more” as his ultimate creation. He’s also back on the fitness regime, running regularly before work and has just completed the Tough Mudder - a gruelling 12 mile assault course race - to raise money for Crohn's and Colitis UK. It’s clear that both the business and raising the profile of colitis are both huge driving factors for Tommy. “I’d like to do a more extreme challenge next year to raise money and raise the profile of colitis,” he says. “We also want to push the business as far as possible. When I wake up in the morning, there’s always more I want to do, I always want to keep improving but there are never enough hours in the day!” One can’t help but wonder what his food technology teacher must be thinking right now. To find out more about Yorkshire's Michelin starred restaurants go to www.yorkshire.com/delicious
Don't miss out The restaurant offers an a la Carte Menu, a Tasting Menu, a Set Menu, a Sunday Lunch Menu and a Vegetarian Menu. For more information call 01347 868387 or visit blackswanoldstead.co.uk
Above: Tommy at work in the kitchen. Opposite clockwise from top left: An impressive 3 AA Rosettes. Taking some well deserved time out. Award winning restaurant with rooms. Perfect presentation and fresh produce.
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“ We wanted to create more of an experience, we started doing tasting menus and people started coming for a whole evening.�
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THE WORLD IS WATCHING Leeds is a thriving, passionate, waterfront city, with something for everyone to enjoy. A haven for shoppers, lovers of culture, night owls and food buffs; Leeds is a great choice for a city break.
In this compact city centre there's just a short walk between designer stores, high street brands, market stalls and independent boutiques. The beautiful architecture of the Victoria Quarter makes a spectacular setting for a shopping spree and is home to the first Harvey Nichols store outside London. The store, with five floors, has become a landmark destination in the city centre. Spread across a tapestry of arcades, Trinity Leeds is a retail beacon, attracting international brands and boutiques to Leeds. Trinity Kitchen's innovative dining concept combines seven restaurants, cafés and bars with five of the UK's very best street food traders. Stop off at Kirkgate Market, one of Europe’s largest indoor markets and the origin of Marks & Spencer. Leeds is home to some fabulous English historical houses. Harewood House is one of the treasure houses of England and has art collections to
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rival the finest in the land. The TudorJacobean estate of Temple Newsam was once owned by Henry VIII and is also home to Europe's largest Rare Breeds farm. Lotherton Hall is a beautiful Edwardian Estate, home to a red deer park. Across the city you will come across its rich industrial heritage, from the White Cloth Gallery to Thwaite and Armley Mills, and the Marks & Spencer Archive and their Heritage Trail. Officially opening its doors last September with Elton John and previously hosting Bruce Springsteen, the first direct arena is the largest entertainment focused arena in Leeds with a capacity of 13,500. The venue plays host to the very best in music from Stereophonics to Franz Ferdinand, and spectacular shows including BBC Sports Personality of the Year. Leeds will have the honour of hosting two matches of the Rugby World Cup 2015 at Elland Road Stadium.
Tickle your taste buds with a focus on the independent side of the food and drink scene at Leeds Food Festival. Quite possibly the most colourful festival on the events calendar, Leeds Pride is an explosion of fun, laughter, music and glamour. Leeds International Film Festival welcomes thousands of film lovers to the largest film festival in the UK outside London, with a plethora of films to choose from. Light Night shines a new light on the city with over 50 free art events making this a spectacular night to remember. The world's greatest cycle race, the Tour de France, will start in the world's greatest county on 5th and 6th July 2014, bringing millions of fans to the Yorkshire roadside to cheer on the champions of the sport. The world’s leading riders will line up in front of Leeds Town Hall on 5th July for the start of the first stage of the 2014 Tour de France Grand Départ.
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WELCOME TO LEEDS
Clockwise from top left: Leeds skyline. Luxury shopping in the Victoria Quarter. The Phoenix Dance Theatre is one of Britain's leading contemporary dance companies. Brazilian dining at Fazenda.
Essential experiences 1 Leeds is a hotbed of creative cultural talent. Throughout the year you'll find popular performers of stage and screen in a variety of venues across the city, such as The Grand Theatre and Opera House, and the adjacent Howard Assembly Room, home to Opera North. Dance has always been an essential part of Leeds life, and the city is lucky to have both the classical Northern Ballet company and the contemporary Phoenix Dance Theatre. Amazing performances don't have to be expensive either, with great midweek discounts at the West Yorkshire Playhouse. You're never far from a fantastic restaurant, café or pub in Leeds, perfect for a break from shopping. The landmark Tiled Hall Café at Leeds Art Gallery is as much a feast for your eyes as it is for your stomach, with beautiful mosaic tiles to marvel at. The Reliance has built up a great reputation. With it's slightly distressed décor and a delicious selection of
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food, it is the ideal stop on a night out in Leeds. Check out Salvo's Restaurant in Headingley for freshly made, award winning authentic Italian treats or city centre based Bibi's Italianissimo who run their popular, regular Showtime events. Try waterside dining at Brasserie Blanc or Fazenda Rodizio Bar & Grill. Leeds has a great range of accommodation, whether you are looking for a city centre hotel or country house hotel, a friendly B&B or a luxury serviced apartment. A number of hotels are architectural gems such as the art deco grandeur of The Queens Hotel, the renovated corn mill at 42 The Calls and the boutique hotel Quebecs. Why not pamper yourself in a spa hotel like Chevin Country Park Hotel & Spa in Otley, or chill as a couple or with friends at Thorpe Park Hotel & Spa, before enjoying a round of championship golf at De Vere Oulton Hall.
Tropical World Visit exotic creatures including meerkats and crocodiles and experience the heat of the rainforest.
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Thackray Museum The story of medicine from the site of a former hospital. Find out about the body, in all its gory glory!
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Yorkshire Sculpture Triangle 200 of the world’s greatest artists at four fantastic worldclass venues.
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Leeds City Museum Step into Ancient Worlds to meet the Leeds mummy and the Leeds tiger, and dig for fossils.
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Royal Armouries Home to Britain's national collection of arms and armour, housing a worldrenowned collection.
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TRAVEL
ON TOP OF THE WORLD Need inspiration for your travels in 2014? Yorkshire has captivated the travel experts at Lonely Planet with its natural beauty and cultural riches.
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e’ve always known Yorkshire is the best in the world but now it’s been made official according to Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2014. The global guide has given the county a seal of approval after naming it one of the top three places to visit in the world. Yorkshire’s local athletes helped the county clock up more medals in the 2012 London Olympics than entire countries such as South Africa, Spain and even the 2016 hosts, Brazil. As if basking in Yorkshire’s glory, last
Yorkshire Dales
Matthew Lewis, star of Harry Potter Yorkshire has everything. Whether you want to hang out with mates, go for a walk in the Dales or watch some sport, it's all here. I've always lived in Leeds and still do – even when I was filming Harry Potter or doing a theatre tour, I'd be back in Leeds as much as I could. You can sense that everyone outside Yorkshire is now cottoning on to how great Yorkshire is, and I expect that'll only increase more with the Tour de France next year.
“ The heritage around Yorkshire is wonderful and the landscape is some of the most beautiful you will ever see.” year a poll revealed the North Yorkshire spa town of Harrogate was the happiest place in Britain. Bradford has become the world’s first UNESCO City of Film, a state-of-the-art gallery The Hepworth Wakefield is giving London a run for its money, and Yorkshire has more Michelin Starred restaurants than anywhere outside London. In 2014, this welcoming county of rugged moorlands, heritage homes and cosy pubs will be able to hold its head even higher when the Tour de France begins its Grand Départ from Leeds. We asked a handful of Yorkshire celebs, to tell us why they think the county is so special.
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Runswick Bay
Tom Lister, ex-Emmerdale star Why would anyone NOT want to visit Yorkshire? Incredible scenery, stunning coastlines, some of the best food and accommodation in the world, for every budget. It has everything!
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Barbara Taylor-Bradford, international author
Joanne Froggatt, Downton Abbey
As an author who grew up in Yorkshire, Haworth, the home of the Brontës has to feature in any list of my alltime favourite places. I remember falling in love with Wuthering Heights and insisting my mum and I climb to Top Withens. It’s an unforgiving walk, but my mother, knowing how much it meant to me, did as she always did and gamely trudged on. By the time I was 10 years old I was already writing stories and what the Brontës taught me was the real power of the imagination.
Yorkshire is a beautiful part of the world and has a very special place in my heart.
Beautiful East Yorkshire
Runswick Bay © Chris Maguire. Yorkshire Dales © National Trust. Joanne Froggatt image © Rachell Smith. Matthew Lewis image © Idil Sukan
Hannah Cockroft MBE, Paralympian There is nothing that gives me a better feeling than training on the country roads of the Yorkshire Moors. Although the work is hard, it provides me with an office like no other. Rain or shine, its natural beauty always manages to make me smile, make me feel free and give the long hours of training a new lease of life. Yorkshire's hills (Halifax's to be particular) have made me the athlete I am today - if I can push up them, then pushing on the flat track will be easy! And of course, there's always a pub just around the corner, with a welcoming open fire and some friendly locals ready and waiting to discuss the next step to world domination.
Top Withens
Dean Andrews, actor The people are welcoming and down to earth. The heritage around Yorkshire is wonderful to visit and explore and the landscape is some of the most beautiful you will ever see. All in all Yorkshire has everything you could ever want or need when visiting a place.
Brodsworth Hall
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John Newman, musician Yorkshire is a place that provided me with such a great moral up bringing I never want to shake it off, it keeps me humble and respectful of everything around me. Yorkshire also has such strength and pride which I will always respect and be a part of.
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REDCAR SALTBURN
WHITBY
A171 YARM
BARNARD CASTLE
YORKSHIRE DALES
RICHMOND
REETH
SEDBERGH
A1
LEYBURN
DANBY
NORTH YORK MOORS
NORTHALLERTON
HAWES
THIRSK
MASHAM
INGLETON SETTLE
RIPON
GRASSINGTON
A170
PICKERING
A629
YORK
HARROGATE
A65
WETHERBY
A658
KEIGHLEY
A64
LEEDS
BRADFORD
A166 A614 HORNSEA
BEVERLEY
A19 SELBY
A164
A63
HEBDEN BRIDGE
HULL
A63
WITHERNSEA
HUMBER BRIDGE
HALIFAX TODMORDEN
MALTON
A1079
OTLEY
SALTAIRE
FILEY
BRIDLINGTON
KNARESBOROUGH
ILKLEY
HAWORTH
A64
A19
PATELEY BRIDGE
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SEAMER
A165
MALHAM
SKIPTON
A169 SCARBOROUGH
KIRKBY LONSDALE HORTON-IN-RIBBLESDALE
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ROBIN HOOD’S BAY
HELMSLEY
SUTTON BANK
A684
DENT
GUISBOROUGH
MIRFIELD HUDDERSFIELD HOLMFIRTH
PONTEFRACT
WAKEFIELD
SCUNTHORPE
A1
BARNSLEY
A15
A180 GRIMSBY CLEETHORPES
DONCASTER
BRIGG
A18
PEAK ROTHERHAM DISTRICT A57
SHEFFIELD
GETTING HERE Wherever you’re coming from, getting to Yorkshire by rail, road, sea or air couldn’t be easier – and the journey takes you through some of our most stunning scenery on the way.
KEY Motorways A Roads Rail Routes Airports Heritage Coasts Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty National Parks Ferryport
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Yorkshire by Rail You can get to Yorkshire by high-speed train from London or Edinburgh in less than two hours. The Midlands is even nearer to Yorkshire’s cities, and Trans-Pennine services offer direct links from the North West and North East. For timetables and reservations contact: East Coast (www.eastcoast.co.uk) Grand Central (www.grandcentralrail.com) National Rail Enquiries (tel 08457 484950 www.nationalrail.co.uk) East Midlands Trains (www.eastmidlandstrains.co.uk) Hull Trains (www.hulltrains.co.uk) Northern Rail (www.northernrail.org) Supertram Sheffield (www.supertram.com) Transpennine Express (www.tpexpress.co.uk)
The A1 and M1 connect from the north and south, while the M6 and M62 link Yorkshire with the Midlands and the North West and the M18/M180 gives easy access to the coast and countryside of northern Lincolnshire. For details of the quickest (or the most scenic) driving routes see the AA or RAC websites www.theaa.com and www.rac.co.uk Coach companies with services to (and within) Yorkshire include: Arriva (www.arrivabus.co.uk/yorkshire) Dalesbus (www.dalesbus.org) East Yorkshire Motor Services (www.eyms.co.uk) First (www.firstgroup.com) Moorsbus (www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/moorsbus) Transdev Blazefield (www.transdevplc.co.uk)
And you can explore Yorkshire’s hills, moors and valleys on some of Britain’s best loved and most spectacular leisure trains, with lovingly preserved vintage rolling stock and historic steam locomotives. These include the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, Embsay & Bolton Abbey Steam Railway, Keighley & Worth Valley Railway, Middleton Railway, Wensleydale Railway, Fellsman (for the SettleCarlisle Railway) and Kirklees Light Railway. Discover more about these super train trips at www.yorkshire.com/railways
Find further information on regional and local bus and train services from Traveline Yorkshire (www.yorkshiretravel.net).
Yorkshire by Road
There are walks, hikes and cycle trails all over Yorkshire. For walkers, enjoy easy strolls in towns and cities, nature walks in superb wildlife reserves, long rambles along cross-country canal towpaths, and energetic treks across the open moors and along the
Britain’s biggest and fastest highways cross Yorkshire from north to south and east to west, making getting here with your own car or by coach very simple indeed.
You can also hire a vehicle from Arrow Self Drive at amazing rates. With branches in Harrogate, Huddersfield, Leeds, Barnsley, Wakefield and Hull, it has never been easier to find the perfect hire vehicle to explore Yorkshire. (www.arrowselfdrive.com)
Yorkshire by bike and on foot
magnificent coast. For cyclists, the choice is equally wide, from challenging trail rides to easy-going, traffic-free routes along canals, cliffs and riversides. Find a wide choice of guide books and maps with lots of dedicated walking and cycling routes at Tourist Information Centres across the county, or more ideas from Welcome to Yorkshire at www.yorkshire.com/outdoors.
Yorkshire by Air and Sea The Yorkshire county is served by a number of airports, providing daily flights to and from many destinations. With excellent transport links, Yorkshire is also easily accessible from many other airports throughout the UK, through high speed train links and an extensive motorway network. Leeds Bradford International Airport (tel 0871 2882288 www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk) Robin Hood Airport Doncaster Sheffield (tel 0871 2202210 www.robinhoodairport.com) Humberside Airport (tel 0844 8877747 www.humbersideairport.com) Manchester Airport (tel 08712 710711 www.manchesterairport.co.uk) Don’t forget P&O Ferries operate direct overnight links into Yorkshire from Rotterdam, Holland and Zeebrugge, Belgium. For more information visit www.poferries.com
Information Centres Tourist Information Centres can offer plenty of great ideas so you make the most of your visit. For all the Tourist Information Centres in Yorkshire; www.yorkshire.com/tic
With thanks to our corporate partners:
Hull & Scarborough
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