WE MAGAZINE ISSUE1 by WE MAGAZINE

Vol 1

Editor Alexandra Meireles | Cover Photography Alexandra Meireles

Issue 1

FASHION STRUGGLES GENDER Ways of seeing - WOMEN ISSUE

FASHION | ART | PHOTOGRAPHY 1

COVERS

Vol 1

Editor Alexandra Meireles | Cover Photography Agnes Strand

Issue 1

FASHION STRUGGLES GENDER Ways of seeing - WOMEN ISSUE

FASHION | ART | PHOTOGRAPHY

WE MAGAZINE Founder & Editor Alexandra Meireles Art Direction Alexandra Meireles Design Joana Moreira Alexandra Meireles Assisting Direction Tânia Dias Helena Meireles Printed by ColorShow Avenida de França, 256 - Loja 16, Centro Empresarial Capitólio, 4050-276 Porto l Portugal

EDITOR’S LETTER Fashion is perfect! I remember being a child and contemplating the magazines my mom used to buy from time to time. I still couldn’t read but I could see the pictures and I remember thinking “these people are beautiful. They are so glamorous, so perfect...I want to be like them when I grow up!” But everyone grows at some point. With age, we start to face obstacles and problems in every aspect of our lives and at some point we need to face that life is nothing but perfect! Even though we don’t ever think about it , Fashion Industry is not an exception! Fashion is supported by the idea of making us believe in perfect worlds and make us dream big. We don’t see the obstacles, the problems and the mistakes. Fashion magazines are made to celebrate people’s success, but every success has a story behind it. Mistakes are made, obstacles are there to face, people back down, they fall and they rise 100 times and sometimes they fall again. But no one seems to think about this when they read a fashion magazine because yes, since early age we believe fashion is perfect! Like I did. This magazine has the promise to bring up all the struggles fashion industry face in the modern age. The first issue opens up a discussion about the relationship between genders in Fashion photography, specially between photographers and models, and how that affect (or not) how the fashion imagery is made by the fashion Industry and perceived by the public eye. Photographers have social responsabilies and when in comes to fashion this responsability rises, as fashion mainy deals with the human body, the concept of beauty, what is “trendy” and what is not. People follow trends, and a lot of them accept what fashion dictates as the truth. Fashion has a major impact in societies's behaviour and is important to understand if this impact is made on the right standards and/or values. This issue is dedicated to how Women gender is perceived and photographed by male and female photographers. The next issue will be dedicated to Men. The following issues will touch the same points on other gender identities. I want to give a special thanks to all the photographers who spent their time thinking about these issues and contributed to elaborate the first issue!

Alexandra Meireles Silva Founder & Editor

COLLABORATIONS ADOLFO USIER

Portuguese Photographer

ALICE MARCELINO Angolan Photographer

CATARINA INÁCIO

Portuguese Photographer

CATHARINA PAVITSCHITZ Austrian Photographer

CELIA TANG

Taiwanese Photographer

FAN COCO

Chinese Photographer

GEORGE GRIEFY

British Photographer

ILONA D.VERESK

Russian Photographer

IVO LÁZARO

Portuguese Photographer

JANET MAYER English Model

AGNES STRAND

Swedish Photographer

JASMINE SALVADOR

Filipino and Eritrean Photographer

PRARRI

American Photographer

SIMONE LISCIANI Italian Photographer

SECRET ORIGIN Adolfo Usier

POPPING COLOURS Alice Marcelino

RAW AS ME

Catarina Inรกcio

OLร F Catharina Pavitschitz

SIGNATURE (MINE) Celia Tang

SMOKY POPPY

Fan Coco

PURITY

George Griefy

PORCELAIN

Ilona D. Veresk

13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13

THE "MAKE UP" MAKE UP LOOK Alexandra Meireles

MARIA

Ivo Lรกzaro

JANET MAYER

from a models perspective

EVANESCENCE Agnes Strand

BROKEN LENS

Jasmine Salvador

RED SKIN

Prarri

TIMELESS

Simone Lisciani

CONTACTS

13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13

SECRET ORIGIN PHOTOGRAPHY ADOLFO USIER

The current fashion industry looks to me as the same from years ago, objectifying woman and exporing their bodies but maybe

some things are changing for the good"

Hair Ilidio Design | Make-up Vanessa Kuzer | Styling & Art Direction Daniel Casteleira | Model Micaela Morgado (Models Factory) | Retounching Adolfo Usier

ADOLFO

USIER

What made you be a photographer ? Well actually, influence of my father and of course I've to mention that was also for accident and I'll let you know "how" right below.

Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? As I mentined before, the main difference to me is the poses it self, woman there is more posing techiques and things to do.

How do you define yourself as an artist ? I define myself as a commercial photographer, for me, an artist is who do the work for himself, I was already, when I was producing music, I did only for myself so if other likes it, great. As a commercial photographer I've learned that, you need to do what clients wants, what the public want and of course if you can adapt on your way and with your artistic vision, better, but most of the times is not like that, client know what they want and is not always good references so I've learned to be a seller that for me is different.

Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Not, actually I don't even know how to identify myself on those terms, maybe body expression (hands, neck and so on) and facial expression is the only things I'm really worrying about.

Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. My Journey have started as I mentioned before, with my father, he gives me my first analog camera when I was 10 years old but a funny history to mention also, after long years break I've come back accidentally, a friend of mine borrow me her camera to go to Moscow to play as producer/dj and I drop it down, I guess the lenses were broken, so I find a great deal in the Deutschland airport and purchased a new one to than give her a new lenses, thinking the lenses were broken but only broke the lenses filter(5$) so then, I got a camera to start with and have been some crazy business career since that day.

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Well the current fashion industry looks to me as the same from years ago, objectifying woman and exporing their bodies but maybe some things are changing for the good, as you may know in France they have a new law for those retouched images on magazines and also Cameron Russel did a big campaign (myjobdoesnotincludeabuse) about womans abused in the industry, and many other things that are happening as with Terry Richardson that was banned from many magazines months ago, for me, I've two rules for fashion photography: #1 Don't touch the model. #2 See number 1.

What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry ? My experience in 5 years on the industry(I know is not much but many things happened) is that, it push us to be "harder workers" and searching all the time for perfection, excellence and professional.

Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? Not at all, actually if you ask the easiest, normally are Man and Kids(both genres). Man because there is less poses and kids its more natural.

How is your relationship with the female models ? Amazing, I've more experience with female models as in the beginning was what I did most.

Do you believe the photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? In Portugal not at all!

If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? Sure why not? It depends on the vision, in my portfolio you can see that I try to not explore that and do my work on my way, don't using the woman figure as a object, my works you can see they 're like mannequim, I also try my best to don't do sensual, boudoir and things like that but I know, sometime will come a big client asking to do something like that. What was the idea behind this editorial "Secret Origin"? The idea was to make an editorial with strong expressions and winter wardrobe with great elegance, giving a nordic feeling to it.

Popping Colours PHOTOGRAPHY ALICE MARCELINO

Hair & Make-up Laura Bernice Viana | Styling Nicolas St louis | Models Marlene Mpase & Nicolas St Louis | Photography Assistant Camille Abou

In conversation with

ALICE MARCELINO

How do you define yourself as an artist ? I think I don’t take myself that serious, at least now. If I had to I would consider myself an artist in the making. As a photographer I am inspired by people stories’. My projects are somehow personal because I identify myself with the subjects I photograph. It’s a learning process. I have been working on issues about identity, race, migration and post colonialism. My involvement with photography began when I worked as a photographer assistant in Portugal. That experience gave me a deep inside of the commercial photography industry. After that I assisted other photographers in Lisbon and then in Paris, until I decided to take it more serious and enroll for a degree at UEL. Because I had experience in the field I felt very focused about my outcomes. From year one I was collaborating with other artists and working on my portfolio. To be a student also gave me the opportunity to explore other paths outside the commercial photography. Through my journey I started to use photography as a tool to communicate stories. What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry? I think is overrated. Especially when those high standards don’t show much respect towards women. I think is an industry where most people work their ass off but only a minority makes the big bucks. I don’t think is a fair industry. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? I have no preference. Each shooting is unique and deeply dependent on the team you work with. I always try to be surrounded by people I somehow admire, feel inspired with and are respectful with the work. From that point not much else matters.. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? I think everything depends on what is the point of the photoshoot. What are you trying to communicate? I also believe that nowadays both male and female are sexualized. I think the question is more about the difference between male and female photographers especially in the fashion industry. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Empathy mostly. I runaway from objectification. I think is very lazy to go that way. When I photograph women with a fashion purpose, my aim is to empower, to give a voice. I don’t like

stereotyped poses and never ask anyone to do so Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? This goes back to question 7. The fact that the fashion industry ( like almost everything else) is a patriarchal hierarchy have had influence on how women are portrayed and consequently about expectations towards women. This is a fact not only a belief. Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Women have been depicted as commodities in all walks of life. Of course fashion has a huge impact and ends up justifying those behaviors. Nevertheless the trend is shifting. Women are uniting and they are coming forward to tell their experiences. The Harvey Weinstein scandal followed by other big names from the film industry up to politics in Westminster brought this issue to a point that is not possible to ignore anymore. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? People follow trends. If someone with power says that yellow is more pleasing or sexy, everyone will follow that advice and take it as the truth. For me the problem is the social and economic inequalities between women and men that still endure today. If women had a real say about their bodies or the professional opportunities the men enjoy, I think fashion would be very different from what is today. Talking now about your work, what is the idea behing your series "Popping Colours"? While my previous project, Kindumba, focuses on the sheer range of black hair, this new project is about the representation of black women in fashion. At a time when the fashion industry is finally recognising the importance of diversity, this work is inspired by the fashion trend of colour blocking. I wanted to get away from the ethnic theme that is always used when you portray black models. Colour blocking is about boldly combining bright colours together to create catchy outfits. This shoot portrays black models in a mainstream fashion trend…

When I photograph women with a fashion purpose, my aim is to

empower, to give a voice.

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like stereotyped poses and never ask anyone to do so"

RAW AS ME PHOTOGRAPHY CATARINA INÁCIO

Sex is a business and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something stupid. Sex in fact is something natural and beautiful, but not at all to humiliate and abuse models and sell products like fragrances. I mean, come on. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the point on the ad? The fragrance, the modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s butt or the unrealistic authority of men?"

CATARINA I N Á C I O

What made you be a photographer ? So, first of all, thank you so much for the invite for the first edition of your magazine. It’s a pleasure. The thing about photography started so randomly, you know… The main reason was to feel better with myself and a form of therapy. I was diagnosed with Chronicle Depression and Social Anxiety since my 10 years old, and I was searching for something that would complete me and make me feel better about myself. Even right now, with 20 years old, I feel that my full-time job is my therapy. So, one day I discovered that my aunt (fun fact: I grown up with my aunt, not my mother, and she means the world to me) had a camera… It was a compact camera, a Fujifilm, and that camera has my heart (haha). And so, my love for photography and art started to grow even more, and I decided that I wanted to be a photographer, and I started to study photography from 2012 to 2015 in a school with lots of courses, I was in the Photography course like I said for 3 years, and since July 2015 I work full-time in photography as a professional photographer. And day by day, I understand that… You become a photographer, actually, you become a good photographer, if you work for it, by accepting your mistakes, by continuing study photography at your place like doing researches, by not compare yourself to other photographers and by let yourself hear your inspiration and what you are and want as an artist first and not some kind of useless opinions from jealous professionals. For real, happens to every good photographer. Especially when you’re a young photographer. How do you define yourself as an artist ? This is one of the most difficult questions for me! I define myself as a dreamer and a human mostly in my art. My photography is my reflection. Like, there are so many forms of art and being

who you are with it, like music, illustration, cinema, even architecture… Mine is photography, and the main points in my art is to express my emotions in a form of warning, therapy and feeling better with myself that in some way will help other humans too; and also to capture everyone’s beauty. I believe in beauty, not in beauty standards created by society. It could be a really sexy female model or a disable grown man, I want to capture it. I want to prove that beauty belongs to everyone. For me, when I capture someone and that person tell me that “you made my day, Catarina”… It’s even better than any photography award, you know. I guess the best award I could win in my job is to put a smile on anyone’s face after a photoshoot and when they look at themselves in my art and they feel happy, beautiful and unique. I guess unique is the right word. Yea, it is… Making someone unique in my art is the best award I could have. Because everyone is, in their own way. Thank God for that!

How do you feel about the high standards of the industry ? Money does magic, you know? It’s ridiculous how money controls everything. And my true opinion about that… is that there are so many good photographers, artists and talents getting wasted by the money of basic talents. Money is the most dangerous weapon in humanity. So, high standards are pure marketing and created in form of an illusion. And society chooses to go with them. Sad, hun? Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? No, actually. I mean, that are a lot of differences by shooting a male or a female model, but for me it’s not a problem. Like, every human has so many differences, like I could shoot a six-packed male model that is super shy and awkward or a plus size male model that slays in all the photoshoot and it’s super easy to work with and I don’t have to give any directions! Like, it depends a lot in every personality. But if you’re a good professional, you can shoot with every kind of model and person. For real… I just lost my mind in one photoshoot. Just one time. So, yea! I guess it’s not a problem. How is your relationship with the female models ? Well, I don’t know why, maybe it’s because I am a woman, but

I love to capture female beauty. First, because it’s part of my sensibility as a woman. Second, it’s easier to find an insecure woman than an insecure man, unfortunately… Human kind sometimes fails at all, and I hate when some female models tell me that: “Some girl called me fat and ugly” or “Some teenage boy tried to sexual assault me”. And I feel like is a responsibility for me to make every woman I capture to feel perfect, worth it and special in their own different ways! I guess, it’s something personal, and 99% of the time, it’s a positive relation with my female models! Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Like I said, there is a few differences but, mostly it’s ok for me to shoot with both genders. And especially, not to look at any flaws or sensibilities of the models in both genders in a negative way. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Yes! Of course! I think it’s something really personal, and especially for a female photographer to shoot with a female model! I have to put myself most of the times in the same level as the model as a woman, just for them to feel that I’m like them. I think, being humble and kind in work, is the first step for the models to feel comfortable with themselves and with all the team and especially the photographer. I’m always saying this: There is a team, yea, there is the model, but photographers have such strong responsibility in every production because… Most of the times it’s in our hands to make this types of works and photoshoots went perfectly well… or perfectly horrible. Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography? Yes, unfortunately. There is such a wrong thought about photographer’s gender. So many times I went to some productions and other types of works… and for me, it was horrible looking at things and think like: Ok, I’m not a 28 year old handsome male photographer! For real! I’m a 20 year old female photographer that is constantly being asked about what work material and camera I use while I work, come on! Use your brains and not your alter-ego created by the 5k likes on your Facebook page! I mean, that makes me mad, there so much talent like I said in this planet and I know in particular in Portugal, and every one wants to see the same over and over again because no one takes the risk of asking “Why?”… That pisses me off. For real.

blind and sexualize them. And that’s something that I think that we need to keep breaking in this fashion circle, because, if you think about fashion history, you see it’s becoming worse and worse since 10 years ago. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? Yes. Because that’s what unfortunately the public wants to see. Even women. And like I said, I think it got worse and worse since 10 years ago. It’s disgusting to see really beautiful female models naked on top of a handsome suited up male model holding a fragrance. It’s humiliating. This problem was created by the own fashion industry. Sex is a business and that’s something stupid. Sex in fact is something natural and beautiful, but not at all to humiliate and abuse models and sell products like fragrances. I mean, come on. What’s the point on the ad? The fragrance, the model’s butt or the unrealistic authority of men? You know what I mean? The public wants to see that now-a-days because that is in fact what industry gave us all over the years. And it’s horrible, not only for what future generations will become but for the subjects in any kind of ad with that content. people believe negative value. Talking about your work more in depth, what was the idea behind these portraits? The concept behind these portraits, is something that I love to do with most female models that I shoot with: the raw beauty of them. The monochromatic tones in these photographs, gives to our eyes such power and at the same time such calm. The concept is the beauty and at the same time, the personality that we can create in our mind about the model and also, the personality of the creator behind the content, the photographer.

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Yes. I think female models are proving that less equality in terms of beauty is the real beauty. I mean, go see an United Colors of Benetton ad and you know what I’m talking! I think, we’re tired of VS’s Angels and perfect skins on ads. I mean, reality is beautiful and reality is the true meaning of Fashion. Taking risks! I love models with stretch scars and moles or I don’t know any titled imperfection by the industry and society. Because that’s what they are and that’s what we need to see. What every human need to understand: Beauty belongs to everyone so as Fashion! And models are not perfect. Like nobody in this Planet. But the sad part is, the more female models are proving that, the more industry wants to humiliate them, make the public 33

Olรถf PHOTOGRAPHY CATHARINA PAVITSCHITZ

I think there is a shift coming, especially in the way women see themselves.

We are craving to see something more real, after many years

of highly airbrushed and stylised images we want to see things we can relate to. We still want to dream, but we want to dream a dream that can become reality."

Styling Janni Elise Ellegaard | Model Olรถf at Eskimo | Originally shot for the Icelandic Magazine Nytt Lif.

In conversation with

CATHARINA PAVITSHCHITZ Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. I actually started out doing other things, my very first creative endeavours were with fashion design but it was not immediate enough for me. The endless journey until a garment is finished, while you have so many ideas for new ones which will have to wait until the current one is completed, was rather frustrating. I then went on to do styling, which was much more satisfying in the sense that I could see instant results of my creations. The fact that they weren’t permanent and were constantly changing also felt liberating. But eventually I realised that for me the magic happens on set, the framing, the lighting the composition of a picture was what I wanted to be in charge of.

What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry ? the lack of equal opportunities makes me sad. There seems to be a rather clear path for men - you get into the industry by assisting, make your connections and then you go on to do your own thing. For women it is a lot more convoluted. Rarely any photographers have or want female assistants, you have to learn your technical skills and tricks elsewhere. The majority of agencies represent around 12-20 photographers, and on average only a maximum of two of these are female. I don’t know how the fashion industry which is mainly catering to women is still dominated by men in 2017.

Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? Not really, I think it depends more on the personality of each individual rather than their gender. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? I am particularly interested in gender identity, performativity and ideas of no gender at all. 44

I will often put boys in feminine clothes and some male models don’t feel comfortable with that. Most models are rather young and are still struggling with their identity, if you’re insecure in you’re masculinity as a boy and then somebody asks you to wear a dress it can be quite conflicting. Girls don’t have these problems, women have been wearing ‘men’s clothing’ for a long time now and it isn’t deemed as controversial anymore for a woman to wear a suit for example. So sometimes it can be a little more challenging to work with male models in the way I would like to. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Empathy and Identification, yes. In my work I think a lot about identity, its fluidity and its presentation. Diversity and body positivity are key tenants within my work. This includes but is not exclusive to age, size and ethnicity. I think a lot about the beauty standards women try to live up to, I look a lot at the fact that most fashion magazines and brands show very young, skinny white girls. I feel a change coming in the industry, it is slowly improving and becoming more open minded. The new Pirelli calendar for example features an all black cast and a trans woman. Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? As I said above, I find it funny that the fashion industry which caters to more women that men, a majority of women actually, is still dominated by male photographers. The good thing is that there are more and more respected female photographers and I think it will change the way the industry visualises fashion. Female photographers look at women differently and I think it will show fashion in a different way. It may even change the twisted idea of beauty we have (fingers crossed).

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Unfortunately there is still a majority of very young girls, mostly of white skin dressed up to look older than they are, creating an unrealistic beauty standard. They often play doll-like characters, perfect versions of real women, far removed from reality. Often the image of a ‘strong woman’ is sold to us as a naked, heavily photoshopped woman. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? Yes, I think there is a shift coming, especially in the way women see themselves. We are craving to see something more real, after many years of highly airbrushed and stylised images we want to see things we can relate to. We still want to dream, but we want to dream a dream that can become reality. Can you explain your project "Olöf" In more detail ? what inspired you? So Olöf was inspired by a deep connection between human and nature, which partly was why i wanted to shoot it in Iceland. It is such a magical place and being there made me feel so in awe, I almost felt spiritual about the earth surrounding me. I was looking a lot at the body as a shape as well as the shapes the body can create. Ana Mendieta's silueta was a big starting point for this body of work. I shot this back in 2014 and while I still feel very strongly about nature, I am now looking a lot more at the body itself. what difference (if so) your work can make in the fashion industry or , as a female photographer, what difference can you make to the fashion industry? It is a goal of mine to make a difference in the fashion industry and be a part of the change that is slowly happening. Usually I am trying to keep retouching to a minimum and work with models of all shapes and sizes and ethnicities.

Signature (Mine) PHOTOGRAPHY CELIA TANG 46

Production Celia Tang | Models Amy Chung, Gray Lee, Guan, Lesley, Yoyi Wu

CELIA

T A N G What made you be a photographer? I was always comfortable and confident working with photography during my studying. In 2015, I started to communicate my story and feelings with photography, it is more like a solution for speaking without saying words, which helps me a lot to express ideas I don’t dare to say and ask. How do you define yourself as an artist? I feel I’m more like a preacher, spreading my belief and work with people who has the same faith. Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. I started to get into photography officially when I was 16, studying advertising design , back to then, I only looked it as a tool for creating images, but I still enjoyed it very much. In university I studied visual communication design, I used photography in my creative projects more and more, especially in the third and the final year. My first personal project is “The Bubbles” (the same name as my final master project), is featured on VSCO and IGNANT, it encouraged me to continue studying photography as my master. Now I am trying to focus more on the topic I always interested such as uncertainty and body sensuality. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting? why? I am comfortable with both female and male. But I am a bit worried when there are more exposures for model’s body, I hope my models can feel respected and comfortable when they are working with me. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? The difference is very tiny, because my job is still the same, and I treat them with the same respect. But I care if female models can be confident to their bodies. Sometimes the clothes are too big or too small for them, I also hope they do not feel they should fit in the clothes, meanwhile, it can also be interesting to use the garments without wearing them in the shoot.

Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Identification, most of time. I make them objection once, ironically, it’s for disagreed to the idea of objection. In the project ’Signature (mine)’, I make the models like the naked dolls I played with in childhood, putting them anywhere and write my name on them. 54

Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography? It is a very complicated process from fashion photography production to general public, but in my opinion gender doesn’t affect that much, photographers know what editors, clients and their audiences like, so they produce them. What public perceive fashion photos can be very different to this principle, people might assume the photographers are male, however they might not think female can also produce the photos with same quality.

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry? There are more photos showing more characters of female, also more female models/celebrities with various body shapes are rocking the world, it is very nice to see this happening.

If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why? There might not be a chance preventing from objection in the industry, but people may like if leading media could produce images in other ways. Because it is media which influence how people perceive female in fashion, even though we have the ability to think individually, it is still powerful to make some people believe negative value. The idea of the series is about the objection of female. Can you explain in more detail your work "signature(mine)? Signature is a way to show and prove something is our belonging, I believe many people have the experience that writing their names on their things in order to secure them. In society, fashion industry or even a relationship, there are many restrictions for female how they should dress and behave, especially in patriarchal. I disagree the idea 'because you are my someone so you need to follow the rules I make'. In the photographs, I would like to make the models as objects, so their faces are mostly covered, even not, there are not much emotion appearing on their faces. The texts on their bodies are my name, during the shooting, I feel they are really mine, but I do not like this feeling, it is very cruel to treat people like that, unless they volunteer, but that is not the topic here. All the models are my friends, I prefer to work with someone who can relax, especially the shoot involved with nude.

Self Portrait PHOTOGRAPHY FAN COCO

FAN COCO

Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. I came from China. London probably gives me a lot inspirations and experiences in culture and fashion. I love the people, the smell of this city. I have to say, London has a magical attraction, like a magnet. And when you around by these atmosphere, instead of feel nervous you would clear who you want to be. How is your relationship with the female models? I like make the female models feel comfortable during the shoot. Maybe due to my style I like keep natural as they suppose to be. Even though the role we already have a direction, but I still will make the working atmosphere be friendly. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? I normally prefer female model to be the role in my work. Personally, I am a female, and I like to research how female perceive the world. I felt quite difficult when shoot the male model; it just likes too hard to get the point I want.

Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Identification. I think female has stronger art perception. And it is a powerful gender. I supposed to express the strong inner women, whoever they look like. Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography? It properly has some certain impact of the understanding in fashion photography. But it depends on how the images look like. And if there is any symbolic form of the images, which could express the gender of the photographer, then I don’t think that should be a case.

If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why? I supposed it would change. Nowadays, I am quite happy to see some of the photographers and models are stand up and create some new styles of our taste. They are very brave, and they also satisfied the market. Our consumers need diverse visual crash. I think the market is changing, the industry is changing. As long as the consumers have more choices, then the industry itself would go develop these choices as well. Why have you decided to do a self portrait? here you are both the photographer and the model. Does that intimate relationship works? I remembered I was creating this serious self-portrait from the last season of 2015 to the summer of 2016. And there was a struggle time for me. I was trying to find a suitable place to release my emotion and idea. And this series was witnessing the process that how I come into photography and keep doing it. That was about identification, about sexuality. I loved to perform in front of my camera during that time, and I was really into it. You know, wanna showed something, I don't exactly know what was it. But that was a good idea to let myself face my mind. And I normally would divide me as stylist and photographer or the model. And I was talked to each role... Sounds crazy but that was really fun. There was very organic idea for this series. However as I continuing doing this... I found I was hating to be the model, I suddenly don't know how to do it. So it is about my identification, who am I. And well I understand my "sexuality" part should be my status as photographer or the model or the director. You know models always know how to express themselves, and now I wanna hide. But the current status might be a good point to start another one. And my reference were from Ninagawa mika and Moriyama daibo. They have different(totally different) style.

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry? From my point of view, the “female models” itself still has no change for the meaning. Even now we have diverse taste for choosing different kinds of female models, but we are chasing the taste of men with conscious or unconscious way.

Our consumers need diverse

visual crash. I think the

market is changing, the industry is changing. As long as the consumers have more choices, Then the industry itself would go develop these choices as well."

Hair, Make-up & Production Fan Coco

PURITY PHOTOGRAPHY GEORGE GRIEFY 64

In conversation with

GEORGE GRIEFY

If the fashion Industry still eroticise and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why? It would be better if the fashion industry eroticised women without objectifying them. I want women to feel confident, sexy and love their bodies. On the other hand the rise of the internet over the last 10 years has produced a direct line for much stronger, graphic sexual material to enter consumers' homes. They have access to almost anything they want, for free. Why will they pay attention to a campaign that uses sex in a more tame way?

How do you define yourself a photographer/ artist ? As a tech addict, I find really fascinating the fact that I can create art using technology; cameras, photo-manipulation software, etc. I would define myself as simple - I like to keep things clear and simple, committed to what I do and maybe a perfectionist.

Tell us more about the "Purity" project. How inspired you ? I love creating dramatic and surreal art using emotive portraits to evoke my intense visions, in an atmosphere full of darkness, fear and nostalgia. Regarding the naked human body as art itself, I have grown a certain love for it, experimenting and showing its emotional side. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impressive how many things you can do with just a camera and a naked body and how easily you can demonstrate purity, innocence, freedom and beauty. This attraction comes from the Renaissance era, where Fine Nude Art came to the forefront representing a timeless ideal of humanity. Both Baroque and Renaissance Art have always been great sources of inspiration for me.

How was your journey as a student or as a photography professional? I started collaborating with different artists and brands or selling my work online since I was 19. Then, I decided to move to London to study Photography, thinking that I would have the chance to meet more like-minded people and more opportunities for work. So far, London is treating me well. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? I think I feel more comfortable shooting women. I'm a guy, and my role models have always been women. I admire women and I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really understand men to be honest. I find women powerful, proud and sensible at the same time. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always felt more comfortable shooting women. Apart from the reasons mentioned above (Question 5), I found the female body more inspiring. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? When I shoot women, I chose to demonstrate their sensitive erotic side. So maybe I identify with empathy or identification. Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? I think social media has played a big role in how fashion is changing. I would be really happy to see more inspiring female models/artists who are willing to redefine body standards in this body-shaming-digital era.

PORCELAIN PHOTOGRAPHY ILONA D. VERESK 70

It’s not a problem of a concrete gender,

it’s a general problem of insipidity. We shoot what we think “beautiful” or what industry

pushed us to shoot. If the “fashion” for photographer are something vulgar or abusive, i’d prefer to think it’s guilt of society and publishers."

ILONA D. VERESK

What made you be a photographer? In my deep childhood I always loved to look at the magazines and pictures in advertising, but I didn’t know what is “being a photographer” and what it can become my profession later, just an interesting case. I position myself not only as photographer, I’m also working as art director and producer of my own fairytales, mixing some fashion with dreams and my vision. But it’s not a rule, modern industry wants you to be flexible, so do I. This way someone can find me as commercial photographer and other ones - as a crazy artist. It’s good to be in harmony with everything. Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. I started my way as photographer about 3 years from now. Before this, I used to work with painting and matte-paint (creating collages from photos in photoshop combined with digital painting). It was popular genre for filling cd-covers for music bands. It was interesting thing and some revenue for that my age. Later it turns into portrait and later - advertising photography. However, now I prefer to create real decorations, than photoshopped. It was not so easy to rebuilt my mind to create “Design in reallity” not only in my imagination, but it becomes more and more fascinating when your projects are growing up with you. What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry? There are many people who think what millions of pictures like “redhead girl framed by green buch” is ingeniously as a fact and that’s okay. Any way industry hate lazybones who can accept beauty only in popular scenes. For me high standarts for example are separated by production issues and idea. It’s rarity when someone can mix them together, but if someone can do it – I can say that’s great photographer/team. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting? why? Yes of course, but it’s tangled firstly with my ideas. I prefer to shoot something fragile, soft and tender, not always, but most of times. I have no problem to shoot both genders, men or women, doesn’t matter for me. However young girls for my ideas are more suitable because of appearance and temper. I prefer to see characters in my story realistic, not only actor’s talent be of importance, I believe what only kind and openminded people can be a heroes of my images which are living in such sceneries everyday.

Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? Yes, more obvious difference in speech and immediate working together. Male are more restrained in emotions and more simple when you talk about poses on shoot. There are some exceptions, of course, but basically for me it’s harder to find a contact with man in tight timing constraints if he is newcomer in modelling for example. Newcomers are always more challenging but anyway they are as a clean sheet of paper. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Very unlikely, I belong my models in a friendly - professional manner firstly, I hear their opinion and I never bring somebody to do something impossible or disgusting. Role of my models in shoot mostly is a being in contact (visual and tactile) with scenery. Live in atmosphere and harmony with surrounding, and follow their ideas. Sometimes i can give freedom to my model, sometimes i have to work with model as a ball-joined doll, depends of project and idea of course, but I consider that the atmosphere on shoot must be warm and be comfortable for every team member if you want to get productive day. Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? It’s not a problem of a concrete gender, it’s a general problem of insipidity. We shoot what we think “beautiful” or what industry pushed us to shoot. If the “fashion” for photographer are something vulgar or abusive, i’d prefer to think it’s guilt of society and publishers, nose-led on their clients/viewers with back view of things and of narrow-angled view of concrete person. I know that everything here much complex when we can imagine, but what i can say surely gender here doesn’t matter at all. Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Modeling is a hard profession which is open only for people with concrete standard measurements. That’s why there are many myths about this part of industry, it’s closed for you if you can’t wear standard clothes like an angel (Ha-ha) Besides that you need to be always in good shape, you always surrounded by very different (not always good) people, for some of them the model is only a clay, work material. As i know from the stories of my models most hardcore things they meet when shooting huge lookbooks and catalogues, for example in China, there the business is blooming with all the colors. However any profession are hard and if you want to be

successful you will go for broke. There are not only hard work, but some luck needed. However if you are enough “modellooking” and active you can receive good payment for your job even if you have not so many experience but you’d better to have nerves of steel and sanity. I respect successful models, that’s a thorny way. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? Sexuality gives to magazines and brands more sales and attention. I dont think it will take a changes soon. That’s why models in industry are divided into several categories. One of them has a commercial faces and bodies, which are using for such clients and eroticized campaigns. No one will put flat girls from podium to the cover of “cosmopolitan” or like that, because.. I don’t know. I tried to find an answer in marketing books once, but i get more questions then answers. In the results of research many specialyst’s converge in opinion, what “sex doesn’t sale more than something else” or like that. Opposite, now most pat of advertising are made on classical family values, success and self-esteem to be closer to customer. And it works even more in long-term perspective when erotics. But we still see erotic images everywhere, so maybe problem is not in customers, but in strange brands and people who are headed and positioned them. I hope the idea will become prevalent in advertising some day, not only images of perfect faces and bodies.

MAKE UP FREE? PHOTOGRAPHY ALEXANDRA MEIRELES

ALEXANDRA MEIRELES

The idea that yøu need to use make up but you need to look natural/make up free is an ambiguous trend in my opinion, however, is a beauty concept that everyone in our society seems to gladly accept and we see online a lot of make up tutorials about this particular look. the beauty industry sell us the idea it is fashionable and trendy to look natural and "make up free" but you better have a certain foundation, a new generation mascara or a nude lipstick to look great. If the idea is to look natural, why do we use make up for that ? It just puts women themselves in the crossfire in order to buy products that makes them “look natural”, and beauty is much more than that! This excessive make up editorial is a critique to the famous “no make up” make up look. I personally love make up and believe if a woman decides to wear make up she should embrace it the way it is "I am using make up, so what?"...and if a women doesn’t wear make up it’s fine and she’s beautiful as well! and plus side: natural! "

Alexandra Meireles is a Portuguese Photographer and Graphic designer. She studied graphic design but her passion was always photography and fashion. After finishing her degree in graphic design, she had the opportunity to study photography in London. The idea that you can create stories and sets using clothes and make up was always something that really fascinated her. The dreams you can dream with fashion are infinite. She used to believe Fashion is perfect. She remembers being a child and contemplating the magazines her mom used to buy from time to time. She couldn’t read them but she could see the pictures and she remembers thinking “these people are beautiful. They are so glamorous, so perfect…I want to be like them when I grow up!” But everyone grows at some point. With age, we start to face obstacles and problems in every aspect of our lives and at some point we need to face that life is nothing but perfect! While her time studying Photography, she became more interested in exploring the human Body, Women, Race and Identity. This was the trigger point to notice some issues in the fashion industry and specially everything that is related to Women, because perhaps there is an identification and empathy with the female figure, as she is a woman aswell. Her time in London was crucial to understand how the Fashion Industry works. She believes gender plays a big role on how fashion Photography is made and being a female photographer in the contemporary age is not easy as people make you believe it is. It is still mostly a male's job. And obviously that has repercussions in the industry. She also believes a model is always captured differently from a male or a female photographer, in the same place. And the same model behaves differently towards her photographer being male or female, However, she also beleives this behavious is unconscious.

everyone knowing what has been going on in the fashion and beauty industry, if something is changing, and who is making the difference. Other important aspect worth discussing here is that, if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers. The idea behind objectification is to satisfy the consumer, would this still be possible without erotization? Alexandra's personal opinion is yes. We are starting to see images of different models that challenge the beauty/aesthetic/ fashion standards we are used to see. More unique models are emerging and women are less eroticized or objectified, which for her, makes the image much more interesting and pleasing to see. Real beauty is starting to become the main point in Fashion campaigns. The "the make up" make up look series is a consequence of her research about this issues and an attempt to empower the women figure in the fashion/beauty industry. She had the purpose to empower women who embrace and like to use make-up on an everyday basis. Most women like to use make up because perhaps they feel more confortable using it. That doesn't necessarily say women are fragile and have low self esteem. That just says "I like to put some make up on, i feel pretty". Alexandra has a close relationship with the model chosen for this series, but that was not the main reason she choose her. Alexandra's choice mostly came by the fact that this girl has an unusual and different look that fight against what we usually see in fashion/beauty campaigns. That's what interests her, That's what she is fighting for, and that's what she want to see more! Fingers crossed!

Objectification and Erotization of the female body had became words we are used to hear about, a lot of articles have been made about the issue, a lot of people have been complaining about big fashion brand campaigns...a lot has been made and said. No fashion campaign is released without having some discussion about this topic in an article or newspaper. Alexandra's purpose is not to support or make a statement about the idea that the women are objectified or erotized, but to go deep down inside the fashion industry and understand what photographers and models think about it, because they are the people in the job and above all else, they know what they are doing. The point here is to understand that despite

MARIA PHOTOGRAPHY IVO LÁZARO

"There is an evolution in all areas and everyone likes to feel protected. Brands want to sell their products and sometimes they can resort to less correct means. But for that to happen someone accepted to do it. Whether you like it or you need it. The whole thing only seems to show that the

which I find extremely unfair. "

woman is a fragile being,

Model Maria Rodrigues | Production Ivo Lรกzaro

In conversation with

IVO

L Ă Z A R O

What made you be a photographer ? What made me a photographer was the immense taste for photography, so I realized I could show the way I see the subject I want to portray, being models or any other theme. How do you define yourself as an artist ? Above all I think that my work is honest, in the sense of not worrying about what others think and not letting me limit myself to what is, or is not, beautiful to photograph. I am fortunate to be able to do what I most enjoy and if this is against someone's taste, that is not my problem.

Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. After spending a year studying sculpture in Fine Arts, I realized that what I really wanted was to photograph. I entered the professional course of the Portuguese Institute of Photography and from there it was through experience and never stop taking photos. This was how I was able to evolve. At this moment the search for ideal results continues because I believe that I will never be satisfied.

Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? I especially like to adopt a natural and sexy look. Whether for aesthetic reasons or for personal taste. It's what gives me the most pleasure to do.

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? I do not work with the fashion industry so what I know is what's coming up in articles or news. But the reality is that the problems that exist are not just in this particular industry. The problem is with the bosses, whether in fashion or any other area. Or whether he is a good person and a good professional or not. Unfortunately there are models (female and male) who suffer from this on the skin.

If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? Again if the model is male no one touches the subject. There is an evolution in all areas and anyone likes to feel protected. Brands want to sell their products and sometimes they can resort to less correct means. But for that to happen someone accepted to do it. Whether you like it or you need it. The whole thing only seems to show that the woman is a fragile being, which I find extremely unfair. If everything had been done differently who knows what things would be like nowadays. Consumers are the most varied, with the most different tastes. What pleases some does not please others. Not being a clairvoyant, I have no idea what it would be like.

How is your relationship with the female models ? The most important thing is to have respect and trust. Define exactly what is valid or not and not break that trust. Without the models I can not get the results I'm looking for, so this has to there, always. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? I do not usually photograph male models, so I don't have experience on that. The few situations that have arisen were portraits of artists and my focus is always the same. Make the best photo possible. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? The theme of woman's objectification has been increasingly talked about. Curiously if it is a male model no one cares. What I find even more curious is that normally those who like to come and "complain" about this type of subject, little or nothing knows about photography or what one tries to do from the artistic point of view. For me there is never objectification in my work, on the contrary. What I try to do every day is an ode to women, because their sensuality and / or sexuality should be faced as naturally as possible. Personal taste speaking, I identify myself more with the female body, when photographed, hence photograph more women. But it's almost stupid to see the whole picture only from one point of view, because when it comes to male models, everything is fine. Do you believe the photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? I do not think it carries any weight. What matters is the results and the way we expose them. It's all the same to me. 95

FROM A MODELS PERSPECTIVE

JANET M A Y E R

PHOTOGRAPHY

IULIA CRISTINA DAVID

Hi. Shall we start from the beginning ? what was it that made you want to be a model? Absolutely! So I came into this amazing artistic industry about 6 years ago already working as a professional dancer. Modelling came along the way as lot of people had suggested it to me being a tall girl at 5’9. I have always had a major love for fashion and so like anything else in my life I threw myself into it, (at the deep end) and here we are now! For me modelling is just another way of expressing myself. I can honestly say that I live for my job and feel so passionately about it which I think is one of the main reasons that has led to my success. I've had to make a lot of sacrifices along the way and I believe that it is truly one of the hardest and most competitive industrys in the world. I think a lot of people in todays society definitely underestimate it. If you hadn’t gone down that route and become a model, what do you think you would be doing now?

The fashion industry is a creative field in which we couldn't work without a whole team involved. Models and Photographers perhaps are the ones who work more closely and engage with each other the most. How is your relationship with the photographers who photographed you? I mean I don’t think I’ve met one photographer that I haven’t got on with in this industry. Everyone is respectful of one another. and I think whether your a dancer, model, photographer or stylist we all have such similar goals that we want to achieve… For a photographer its the perfect shot or editorial so quite often I try and communicate as much as I can whilst shooting and listen hard to achieve the goal. I will also usually ask for a mood board before the shoot so I'm prepared, and normally whilst shooting I will try to take note and ask if there is anything specific that the photographer wants me to do.

Do you feel any atmospheric difference when you’re being photographed by a female or a male photographer ? why ?

On the other side of modelling I work as a professional dancer with my own cabaret duo and company J’ADORE LA VIE. I am constantly working on that and the modelling fits in well as there is normally a lot of the time waiting around on shoots and shows. I’m normally the geek in the corner on my laptop sending emails and working on the brand. So yes if I wasn’t modelling I would definitely be focusing all my time on the company and brand.

Generally no, however there is always that thought in the back of a womans mind when it comes to artistic nude shoots. When I get a job like this I always make sure that when I have done my research on the photographer and sign a disclosure form as to what is specifically confirmed and agreed between model and photographer.

In creative industries such as fashion, people want immediate success and feel hopeless when that doesn't come quickly. How do you cope with that and maintain focus through your journey ?

Fashion Industry is still guided by high standards such as the right measurements and beauty definition, especially in female models. How do you cope with that? Do you feel this is changing in any way ?

So this is a factor I’m highly critical of myself because I am extremely impatient and as soon as I beat goals I set bigger ones. Its a constant never-ending battle for me! I literally started at the bottom! I was a small town girl from Shropshire who moved away at 16 to start training as a dancer, I've faced knock backs my entire career from auditions, castings, cast mates, agents and even employers! The key is not to get knocked down and to pick yourself up every single time. The most successful artists and models today are some of the greatest people of all time who chose simply to never gave up and are still going strong. They are the people that inspire me, I’ve always figured that if I look back over the last 7 years of my career, everything that I have achieved in the short timescale is outstanding! Sometimes you just need to see it from that angle and blow your own damn mind rather than getting defeated as to what you currently don’t have. GRATTITUDE is everything! As for everything else relax and enjoy the beauty of the ride.

And you know what ? Its exactly the same in the dance industry! Yes I do feel a lot of pressure to stay slim and have had numerous occasions on contracts as a dancer where I Have been weighed in every month and tracked. Even as a model I think the craziest was being questioned as to whether I could drop a dress size for a show and become a size 6 in 4 weeks which is pretty damn dangerous and crazy! I do however feel that this is changing and believe that there are more and more plus size models on the catwalk and also more alternative looking models who are trying to break the fashion boundaries which is really refreshing to see. People with different and striking looks, skin colours and even more mature models are now gracing the catwalk showing us that fashion really does not have any age limit. Baddie winkle is definitely one of my ultimate faves proving she can still literally wear my wardrobe at 86 years of age and still have the attitude and don’t give a damn spirit. Definitely check out her out !!!

I do however feel that this is changing and believe that there are more and more plus size models on the catwalk and also more

alternative looking models who are

trying to break the fashion boundaries which is really refreshing to see. People

with different and striking looks, skin colours and even more mature models are now gracing the catwalk showing us that fashion really does not have any age limit."

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Can you express your thoughts and personal experience about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Erotization and Objectification of the female body are still words we sometimes have to face when it comes to fashion photography. From a model’s perspective, do you believe this is changing or is still the same?´ Definitely changing! Personally with erotization and objectification I feel like for me personally and for other woman its getting destroyed and thrown back in the face. There are so many independent, iconic, powerful and free spirited woman these days that I am inspired by. When I do an erotic themed shoot I do it for myself and nobody else, definitely not for a man! More and more woman are going against the old school way of life and the way that our parents grew up. Woman are getting more ambitious, having kids later on and are wanting more from life in general. I live my life for me, shoot for me, take care and work on my own body for me as thats who I belong to! I make my own decisions and choose to model and dance because thats what makes me happy! You might notice me, but as long as you don't harass me, I don't care.

Do you believe that the photographers gender have a close relationship with this ? Did you ever feel any sexual tension (especially when there is nudity) from the photographer and that influenced how the pictures are made ? I feel like photographers want the best out of the model! I have never felt sexual tension with a photographer and feel more the opposite way. For me onstage or behind the camera is a place to relax to feel a sense of freedom, its what I love and enjoy doing so I don’t feel tense. In fact some of my best of shoots is when the photographer becomes invisible and for that moment I can be whoever I want to be! I’ll never forget this one time shooting in the Paris Metro at rush hour, it was MAYHEM, there was so many people watching, pointing and the noise and trains were so loud it worked completely in the opposite way, I simply zoned out completely. The same goes onstage I never feel awkward in front of an audience I play a character, I forget who I am and enjoy the moment. Whether you are shooting with a male or female photographer you still have to be in a relaxed but when doing lingerie style photographs. How about female photographers? is there any difference ? No difference a female photographer is just photographer to me, there is no difference ! I do the same job to the best of my ability whether it was a male or female.

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If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why? At the end of the day I believe that as a model and as a dancer I was born to make art! That was my god given gift and for me art has always been about communicating with one another and making people FEEL something. Whether thats love, anger, lust, passion Its all about using the gift of being able to show the world powerful messages both good and bad through dance, art, on stage, a screen, through imagery and through a camera lense. I think that however the fashion industry portrays it self will always be pleasing and non pleasing to different people. As long as people continue to feel and carry emotions then people will always appreciate art whether thats in dance or fashion.

Did you ever felt objectified or desired in your professional career? Or did you ever felt any empathy or identification ? Yes I do feel like in my career I always have to fit a certain bracket or type to get work but it is always changing. Sometimes I have the right hair colour and sometimes I don’t have the right hair colour. Other times I’m too big and other times I’m too small, I’m always going to be what one photographer wants and what someone else doesn’t want either way I have to accept it and move onto the next audition or casting and not get disheartened however hard that may be! I’ve already figured that as long as you stick to being the best you and embrace your good and bad qualities and features there will never be anyone else like you! In this day and age it Is becoming more and more about individuality and personality, kooky flaws, crazy talents don’t ever try and be someone else thats so boring and so unoriginal! Be different, think outside the box, perfect your flaws be unique. be you!

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Evanescence PHOTOGRAPHY AGNES STRAND

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IN CONVERSATION WITH

AGNES S T R A N D What made you be a photographer ? Mostly I think it was about the ability to capture something that is100% real and to be able to show my interpretation of it to others. How do you define yourself as an artist ? As an artist I look for triggers, and what triggers me are colours, emotions, graphic, patterns, contrasts... Things that hopefully will make people react and therefore force them to reflect on what they’ve just seen. Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. I started out right after high school, after which I moved from my cozy hometown Västervik on the swedish eastcoast, to study at Jönköping school of photography. This was a year of self searching, and for me to figure out what I wanted to do with photography. The year after I started at Gamleby school of photography, a two-year-old vocational education that focused on Commercial & Fashion. The second of those two years I moved to Stockholm for an internship with a photographer in a creative studio. In the spring of 2017 I graduated from my three years of studies, had recently started my own photography business and now I’m freelancing as a photographer and photographer assistant in Stockholm where I live. What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry ? In a way it makes sense that the standards are high. I mean, not everyone can be the best, and in an industry as exposed as this one you need to be very good in order to make it. And that’s part of the attraction with it, to have to work and strive for your passion. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? How is your relationship with the female models ? I have come to shoot mostly women. I think it’s much about identification and the feeling of security for me. I know how women function a lot better than I know men and therefore I can communicate and connect a lot easier with them. But I also don’t think there should be a difference in the way I actually shoot any gender, I hope there isn’t. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience 108

about this issue ? Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? Yeah, I think I experience it to be different to shoot male and female models. But the times I’ve been shooting male models I’ve focused on putting that barrier to the side. I don’t want to contribute spreading the strict ideals about how men and woman ”should” be. I think it’s really important to show that we’re all just people. Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? I don’t really know how to start answering this question because there are so much inequality and power abuse in the fashion industry. And this is something that also applies on men, but since woman has been oppressed throughout the history of times I would say that still today it’s worse on female models. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? I think that the main focus should be on changing the idea of what the consumers find to be a pleasing commercial image. The only reason why consumers are satisfied, and used to the images they are shown today, is because the fashion and commercial industry has told them that ”This is the ideal, this is what you should look like, this is how we see men and women today, and that’s it”. And if the industry only present women in weak positions and men with strength, nothings gonna change. So yes, I do believe that if the industry would change their message about whats right and wrong, I think the consumers are gonna follow that. I believe there are more people that are dissatisfied with the way the industry looks today than the ones who are happy with it, so a change of ideal would be well received. Can you tell us the concept behind your editorial "Evanescence"? On this shoot I photographed two women and one man. The purpose of the shoot was to strive against the societies ideals of how to portrait both sexes, and to show that you don’t have to make a difference in poses, clothes or the main concept of the shoot, based on the gender the models have.

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Designer Anastasia JansĂ¤ter | Makeup artist Rosemarie Eggertz | Hair stylist Moona Narancic | Photo assistent Ellinor SjĂśberg | Models Ivar S, Sagal M & Cecilia S / Stockholmsgruppen

Broken Lens PHOTOGRAPHY JASMINE SALVADOR

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Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only a hand full of

female models

that represent curves and even then they are photographed

in a sensual, erotic way.

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Model PASCALE ELIZA DAVIES | Production JASMINE SALVADOR

JASMINE SALVADOR

I believe

people would have a very different mind-set when it comes to beauty

if there was an equal

representation of it."

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What made you be a photographer ? My first experience with photography started when I was 14 living in the Philippines at the time and after 8 years of living in my mother’s hometown she decided that I should return to London which ultimately brought a great deal of distress but as a way to cope my step-father set-up a project for me which involved a old Kodak camera. I fell in love with photography because of the idea that I could somehow capture time. Capturing time and having a sense of preserving a memory triggered my interest in photography. How do you define yourself as an artist ? I wouldn’t call myself an artist as such I always prefer being called a photographer or a creative person, I think being an artist bares such a bigger meaning and I’m not sure I could live up to the expectation of being an artist therefore I don’t know how to answer this question but I guess as photographer/ creative person I define my work an extension of my emotional state particularly with the subject matters I photograph. My “broken lens series” started when I broke my 50mm lens (the only lens I use), it broke in half but instead of buying a new one I decided to keep using it to try and develop my own aesthetic. The broken lens gave my images a texture almost like a painting and the saturation of the images plays with how we feel when seeing colours. Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. As a student I was pretty sure I was a documentary/still life photography but as I graduated I’ve only done still life photography, my subject is mainly flowers. I photograph flowers in response to how limited our time is on earth I chose to be more delicate and use flowers to symbolise new beginnings, joy and happiness and life is about focusing on those things and cherish the small stuff because we may come from different walks of life but inevitably we end in one path just as flowers blossom in spring and strengthen through summer they fall in autumn and die in winter but it circles back into spring. Photographing still life I try to apply to many e-commercial and still life related jobs and it’s not been easy I think professionally I feel that I have been unsuccessful despite having a good portfolio after leaving University I still don’t have the experience companies are looking for and as someone who lives on my own I can’t

afford to do unpaid internship. What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry ? It is incredibly high, photography isn’t cheap to produce there is so much equipment that goes into creating a photograph and also involves working with a lot of people particularly if you want to do fashion, I wanted to do fashion photography at one point because I adore Richard Avedon’s work but I don’t have much resources available to me and finding people to collaborate is twice as hard. I will never forget the time I went for an interview at Groupon to be their in-house photographer, photographing their products and despite being empress with my work I lack the experience of working in a e-commercial based role and it made me realise how my experience is more important then the quality of work I produce. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? I don’t have any issues photographing any genre, for me its more difficult to photograph a person that doesn’t feel comfortable being photographed. I’m all about vulnerability and the impact of ones truth. Ones truth is what I look for in a person and not their gender. How is your relationship with the female models ? I always end up building a friendship with female and male models, it’s really nice to meet and work with people for the first time and end up building a good friendship with them too. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? No, for me it’s the same experience as photographing females but at times male models are easy going in regards to direction and more open minded. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? When I photograph women I don’t question what they show me because I search for their truth even if I don’t understand that truth and me objectifying a women/men makes me feel like I’m no better then the likes of Terry Richardson someone that uses sexuality to be branded as a great fashion photographer in reality his images is exploiting female bodies and being explicit shouldn’t be the catalyst to becoming a great photographer. I learn how to photograph by observation and getting a sense of my subjects character its my way of taking portraits. Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? Yes and no at times I think it’s down to what the client wants but in saying that the fashion industry is very male dominated. One would think that females would run the fashion industry but even female models are made to look a certain way to sell an idea of what is beautiful. And a lot of the big fashion brands for female is usually a male designer behind them. Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? There’s only a hand full of female models that represent curves and even then they are photograph in a sensual, erotic way. I believe people would have a very different mind-set when it comes to beauty if there was an equal representation of beauty. I have had friends who are inspiring models being told that their breast are too big or their bottoms, lips and so on. Female models have to embody a certain androgynous feature and even thought I love how greatly represented they are in

high fashion, feminine features wouldn’t be taking seriously in high fashion but would be recognised as a commercial and glamour model. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? Of course, this generation is redefining gender and how we identify ourselves and I want to be part of a movement that recreate the image people have about femininity and masculinity, we don’t have to be confined within our gendernorms and play the role that society dictates us to be. Exploiting sexuality is not what makes an image creative or appealing just like the saying “a picture is worth a thousand words” a photograph can be created a thousand ways therefore we change how we embody female figure. What´s the story behind your "Broken Lens " project ? My “Broken Lens” series started when I broke my 55mm lens, It broke in half but instead of buying a new one I decided to keep using it to try and develop my own aesthetic. Interpretation is something that I’ve always been intrigued by, how people see. Therefore I experimented on capturing with my broke lens. The series of images from the broken lens captured a texture almost like a painting and the saturation of the images plays with how we feel when seeing colours just as we read signs we feel when we see colours. Colours have such away of evoking are emotions. Semiotics is a big part of why I wanted to develop this type of aesthetic the concept is exploring how photographs can have texture like painting, I wanted to create an aesthetic that doesn't appear flat in regards to colour and the softness of the images almost deceiving the point of view of the viewers. Colour semiotics is another form of how we see signs but the difference is colours are able to communicate emotions. Colours can evoke strong emotional responses in viewers and can also communicate meanings and that associate with a concept. Who inspired you to make this series? The work "infinity series " by Bill Armstrong is a body of work that explores manipulation in regards to how viewers response to images that doesn’t appear to have a subject. Thomas Ruff is another photographer that examines the relationship between the viewers and the photograph is series “jpeg” is a response on how the Internet has change the way we view images particularly images that should have a lot of emotional impact.

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RED SKIN PHOTOGRAPHY PRARRI

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PRARRI What made you be a photographer ? I fell in love with how images can tell stories. I wanted to speak to the World with my imagery. Iwould define myself as well disciplined. I have done many styles. Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional. It all started out shooting for fun with my friends, then realizing that I can make a living doing this full time. So I started reaching out to companies and showing them My portfolio. So little by little I started booking big jobs. What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry ? High standards is always a good thing. We live in a world where everyone has a camera phone or DSLR and can take great pictures. We as professionals have to be to the highest quality possible to stand out. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? I have shot both male and female. I would say I prefer to shoot woman more. Woman seem more elegant and lovely to look at. As men can give the same results but they have to be serious, while a woman can seem graceful. How is your relationship with the female models ? For me I treat everyone will respect. I treat my models as I do with anyone I work with in the professional environment. With the most respect and communication. I will greet them as they walk into the shoot. Tell them the objective of the day. During the shoot I will explain what emotions and poses I would like to see. Then I will thank them for coming. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? I honestly think men and woman model the same. The only difference is if the models is an amateur or professional. The best models give great poses when the time is right. I’ve shoot both male and female on set and sometime the men perform better. Other times The woman give better poses. It all depends on skill level. Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? When I shoot woman I don’t really give them a title. I see beauty in everyone. I expect the most quality when im in a production. I glorify every person I shoot. I empower the model to perform the best they can be. Both male and female. I see 132

it as an empty canvas. Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ? When I walk down the fashion district part of town and I see allot of woman in the posters and printed in the store front. The reason for this is that woman buy more clothes. simple. I think male fashion is important as well but I don’t think most men go crazy for the latest fall fashion. Men just want clothes to go to work in. Woman want to look stylist. I think its more of a marketing strategy from companies to make more money. Coming from a person who works with fashion brands they are investing in a photoshoot to make profit. They know the woman clothes sell more so they shoot more woman. I’ve shot mens fashion line as well. Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? I am a big fan of Gucci, Dior, Prada, Luis Viton. They have the most amazing and eight campaigns. There woman show the most class and elegance in their images. They seem very royal in their images. Woman in current fashion are glorified and shown as the leader in the images. Very influential. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? My favorite images are fully clothed fashion woman. I think its all about the clothes. I love watching fashion week and fashion runways. I only focus on the clothes. Models now would flip gender roles and would sometimes dress like men. That makes it more interesting. I think the more society evolves the less we care about how “sexy’ a woman looks. Thats the old way of thinking. All of the young people I meet only care about the patterns and the fabric. The new way of thinking if based on making an impact on fashion. No matter who is wearing the clothes. It can be robots wearing the clothes and it will still look good.

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Model Sage | Production Prarri

Timeless PHOTOGRAPHY SIMONE LISCIANI

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Nowadays, models are depicted as

too fragile and

sometimes as empty as mannequins. I

truly dislike this tendency."

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model Larisa Tafili | stylist Beatrice Alessiani | rethoucher Martina Romano

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SIMONE

LISCIANI

What made you be a photographer ? I started taking pictures for fun when I was a child because my father was a great landscape photographer and I was inspired by his passion. He will always be my greatest point of reference. I owe him for what I am today. The exact moment I realised I had become a photographer was on a trip to Praga. I started taking my first reportage pictures there.

Empathy, Identification and Objectification. Do you identify yourself with any of these terms when you photograph a woman ? When I photograph a woman, I totally focus on her, on her beauty, often forgetting about the outfit she is wearing or about the art director’s and the stylists’ guidelines. In a way, I want to catch her soul. So I would say I identify with empathy.

Tell us a little bit about your journey as a student or as a photography professional.

Do you believe the photographer’s gender have an influence on how the general public perceive fashion photography ?

My working experience started in the worst period ever for photography: the end of film photography and the beginning of digital photography. At that time, I worked as an assistant in some photographic studios. When I realised I was capable of facing that crisis, I started working on my own. After some years, I have also started working in Milan in fashion photography.

No, I don’t think so.

What is your opinion on the high standards of the industry ? I believe that the high standards of the industry are very demanding: there is a hectic production of perfect and commercial pictures. However, they are forgotten in six months. Is there any gender you feel more comfortable shooting ? why ? I feel more comfortable shooting with female models because I think that women of every age are more fascinating than men. How is your relationship with the female models ? My relationship with female models is absolutely professional and totally respectful. Before shooting, I like talking with them to get to know their personality and be less of a stranger. Do you feel there is any difference between photographing male and female models ? Can you tell us your experience about this issue ? As I have already said, it is a matter of charm. I would rather take pictures of male actors than male models. I prefer by far working and taking pictures with female models.

Can you express your thoughts about how female models are depicted in the current fashion Industry ? Nowadays, models are depicted as too fragile and sometimes as empty as mannequins. I truly dislike this tendency. If the fashion Industry still eroticize and objectify the women figure, do you believe that if fashion imagery were made differently they would still be pleasing for the public/consumers? why ? The woman’s body, and sometimes the man’s body as well, doesn’t get the proper respect in this world and this is painful to me. It would definitely be an amazing cultural revolution! Honestly, I’m fed up with seeing women objectified by fashion photography and Eros being used to make campaigns or pictures look cooler. When I mentioned the duty to save Beauty, so that it could save us in turn, I also meant this aspect. I’m sure that if we focused on making stunning pictures paying homage to the beauty of the person posing, the public would appreciate to a greater degree both our work and the world of fashion. Can you tell us the concept behind the "timeless" series? I photographed this beautiful model that impressed me for her look and for her modern beauty but at the same time retro. I was inspired by Peter Lindbergh's photos. In fact, I wanted to get all the black and white pictures but after seeing them in color, I thought they look so much better.

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CONTACTS ADOLFO USIER

www.adolfousier.com | info@adolfousier.com

ALICE MARCELINO

www.alicemarcelino.com | alice.pmarcelino@gmail.com

CATARINA INÁCIO

aniratacinacio@gmail.com

CATHARINA PAVITSCHITZ

www.catharinapavitschitz.com | catharinapavitschitz@gmail.com

CELIA TANG

celiatang0110@gmail.com

FAN COCO

junjiefan.wordpress.com

GEORGE GRIEFY

www.instagram.com/georgegriefy | griefy@hotmail.gr

ILONA D.VERESK

www./ilonaveresk.com | INFO@ilonaveresk.com

ALEXANDRA MEIRELES

www.he-ya-alex.com | info.heyalex@gmail.com

IVO LÁZARO

www.instagram.com/ivolazaro | ivolazarus@hotmail.com

JANET MAYER

janlouisemayer@gmail.com

AGNES STRAND

www.agnesstrand.com | info@agnesstrand.com

JASMINE SALVADOR salvadorjpt@gmail.com

PRARRI

www.prarri.com | info@prarri.com

SIMONE LISCIANI

www.simonelisciani.com | info@simonelisciani.com

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