Blue Planet Log Issue 2

Page 1

Blue Planet

Issue 2 • July 2013

ANDAMAN ISLANDS DISPATCH FROM THE INDIAN OCEAN

LONG DISTANCE CRUISING SEMINAR MEET THE EXPERTS

ATLANTIC ODYSSEY A NEW TRANSATLANTIC RALLY Lanzarote – Martinique La Palma – Grenada

The Oceans – Our Heritage for the Future


We are with you on the Blue Planet Odyssey and the Atlantic Odyssey Grand Large Yachting is the result of an association of several renowned French boat builders specialising in long distance voyages. Grand Large Yachting’s commitment is to accompany you from the beginning of your initial idea of a long voyage to the moment of your return. From the choice of boat, overseeing its construction, its launch and delivery to preparing your departure, we will be by your side all along the way. Grand Large Yachting is the only group today offering all the solutions for long distance voyages in monohulls or catamarans, in aluminium or composite, under sail or motor. Contact us to find the solution which corresponds to your expectations and your voyaging plans !

Allures Yachting

Grand Large Services

Allures Yachting make integral centreboard yachts from 40 to 51 feet. The round bilge aluminium hulls ensure all Allures yachts maximum security. The composite superstructure provides sound and thermal insulation, weight saving and the freedom to shape it for optimal comfort. As with all constructors in the group, Allures Yachting offer considerable personalisation of their yachts. Allures brings together security, comfort and performance in producing innovative oceangoing yachts.

In order to better respond to the needs of its boat owners, Grand Large Yachting has created a separate entity especially for them: Grand Large Services. Its mission is to meet the owners’ essential demands: commissioning, after sales service, maintenance, fitting additional equipment, refitting, offshore commissioning and training, preparing the boat for resale.

www.allures.fr

Garcia Yachting

www.garcia-yachting.com Garcia Yachting has been building exceptional oceangoing yachts since 1974. A leading aluminium virtuoso, the constructor produces integral centreboard and retractable keel yachts from 50 to 115 feet, as well as long haul trawlers. Garcia Yachting boats have received numerous awards including the prestigious International Superyacht Design Award in the USA. The Garcia Trawler 54 has just been elected European Yacht of the Year. You will come across Garcia yachts all over the world and in the most challenging seas!

Outremer Yachting

www.catamaran-outremer.com Since 1984, Outremer Yachting has been the specialist of blue water cruising catamarans that are seaworthy, fast and easy to handle. Outremer catamarans range from 45 to 59 feet. In January 2013, the Outremer 5X has been elected European Yacht of the Year by journalists from 11 different countries.

www.glyachting.com

A sailing community www.grandlargecafe.com

With 600 boats sailing all over the world and several million nautical miles to their credit, the group benefits from an exceptional sailing community across the four corners of the globe. Their valuable experience is a powerful tool that enables us to better understand the needs of those who sail and better develop boats that correspond perfectly to their needs. This sailing community also represents a unique inspirational source for all potential voyagers who plan to follow in their wake and live their own adventure.

contact@glyachting.com www.glyachting.com Watch the next issue for more news !


Avec vous sur le Blue Planet Odyssey & l’Atlantic Odyssey Fruit de l’association de chantiers français réputés de la Grande Croisière, Grand Large Yachting est le spécialiste du grand voyage en bateau. La vocation de Grand Large Yachting est de vous accompagner depuis votre idée d’un grand voyage jusqu’à votre retour en passant par toutes les étapes du choix du bateau, du suivi de sa fabrication, de la mise en main, de la préparation au départ, voire même de la revente. Grand Large Yachting est aujourd’hui le seul groupe proposant toutes les solutions pour la grande croisière, sur une ou deux coques, en aluminium ou en composite, à la voile ou au moteur. Contactez-nous pour trouver la solution qui correspond à vos attentes et à votre programme !

Allures Yachting

Grand Large Services

Allures Yachting fabrique des dériveurs intégraux de 40 à 51 pieds. Les coques aluminium en forme offrent aux voiliers Allures une sécurité maximum. Les superstructures en composite procurent isolation phonique et thermique, gain de poids et liberté de forme pour un confort optimal. Comme tous les chantiers du groupe, Allures Yachting propose une large personnalisation de ses bateaux. Voiliers de voyage innovants, les Allures allient sécurité, confort et performance.

Pour toujours mieux répondre aux attentes de ses propriétaires de bateaux, Grand Large Yachting a créé une structure qui leur est dédiée : Grand Large Services. Cette structure a pour mission de répondre aux demandes des propriétaires : service après vente, maintenance, ajout d’équipements, refit, accompagnement, formation, préparation à la revente du bateau, vente d’occasion.

www.allures.fr

Garcia Yachting

www.garcia-yachting.com Depuis 1974, Garcia Yachting produit des bateaux de voyage d’exception. Virtuose de l’aluminium, le chantier fabrique des voiliers dériveurs intégraux ou quille relevable de 50 à 115 pieds, ainsi que des trawlers au long cours. Les bateaux Garcia Yachting ont reçu de nombreuses récompenses, dont le prestigieux «International Superyacht Design Award» aux USA. Le Garcia Trawler 54 vient d’être élu European Power Boat of The Year. Vous croiserez des Garcia partout dans le monde et dans les mers les plus extrêmes !

www.glyachting.com

Une communauté de navigateurs www.grandlargecafe.com

Fort de 600 bateaux qui naviguent autour du monde et des plusieurs millions de milles nautiques parcourus, le groupe bénéficie d’une communauté exceptionnelle de navigateurs aux quatre coins de la planète. Leurs retours d’expérience constituent pour nous un moteur puissant pour comprendre les besoins de ceux qui naviguent et développer des bateaux qui correspondent parfaitement à ces besoins. Cette communauté de navigateurs représente également une source d’inspiration unique pour tous les candidats au voyage qui veulent franchir le pas et vivre cette aventure exceptionnelle.

Outremer Yachting

www.catamaran-outremer.com Depuis 1984, Outremer Yachting est le spécialiste du catamaran de voyage à la fois marin, rapide et simple. Les catamarans Outremer Yachting vont de 45 à 59 pieds. En janvier 2013, l’Outremer 5X a reçu le titre de « Bateau Européen de l’année » décerné par des journalistes de 11 pays.

contact@glyachting.com www.glyachting.com

à suivre…


A new transatlantic rally for cruising sailors For the first time in a transatlantic event participants will have a choice of departing and finishing ports as well as start dates

Atlantic Odyssey I: 17 November 2013 from Arrecife, Lanzarote to Martinique Atlantic Odyssey II: 12 January 2014 from Santa Cruz de la Palma to Grenada In Lanzarote, the yachts will be hosted in the new Marina Lanzarote, based in the island’s capital, Arrecife. In Martinique, Port du Marin, one of the Caribbean’s leading yachting centre, will welcome the fleet for this inaugural edition. Marina La Palma will host the fleet in Santa Cruz, the capital of the island of La Palma. Le Phare Bleu Marina will be the host in Grenada.

martinique la palma

lanzarote

grenada

Un nouveau rallye transatlantique pour les plaisanciers Pour la première fois dans un rallye transatlantique, les participants ont le choix entre deux ports de départ et d‘arrivée, et deux dates de départ.

Atlantic Odyssey I : 17 novembre 2013 d‘Arrecife, Lanzarote vers la Martinique Atlantic Odyssey II : 12 janvier 2014 de Santa Cruz de la Palma vers Grenade A Lanzarote, les bateaux seront hébergés dans la nouvelle Marina Lanzarote, à Arrecife, capitale de l‘île. En Martinique, Port du Marin, l‘un des centres nautiques les plus importants des Caraïbes, accueillera la flotte pour cette édition inaugurale. Marina La Palma accueillera le rallye à Santa Cruz, capitale de l‘île de La Palma. Le Phare Bleu Marina sera notre hôte à Grenade.

The Atlantic Odyssey is sponsored in the Canary Islands by Puerto Calero Marinas, regional and local government and port authorities. In Martinique, the event is sponsored by the Regional Council and Martinique Tourist Board. In Grenada the event is sponsored by Le Phare Bleu Marina and Grenada Tourist Board. L‘Atlantic Odyssey est sponsorisé aux Canaries par Puerto Calero Marinas, le gouvernement régional et local, et les autorités portuaires. En Martinique, il est sponsorisé par le Conseil Régional et le Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme. A Grenade, il est sponsorisé par Le Phare Bleu Marina et l‘Office du Tourisme de Grenade.

MANUAL DE IDENTIDAD CORPORATIVA


A new odyssey is born In this issue we welcome participants in the new Atlantic Odyssey as well as our friends in the Blue Planet Odyssey.

Logbook

Shortly after the launch of the Blue Planet Odyssey I received an email from an old Canarian friend, José Calero, telling me that if I needed any help with this new event in the Canaries, I should look no further. He also told me that in addition to his Puerto Calero marina he was developing a new yachting facility near the capital Arrecife and invited us to be his guests at Marina Lanzarote.

06 10 11 12

José’s generous offer reminded me of the warm welcome participants in my other rallies had always received in his native Lanzarote. As you will read in the following pages, Lanzarote is a unique island, outstanding in its stark beauty, remarkable in its determination to retain its pristine environment and traditional values. As a result, Lanzarote was one of the first islands in the world to be declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 1993. The twentieth anniversary of that significant event was too tempting an opportunity to miss and, as a result, a new transatlantic rally will be staged from Lanzarote later this year to mark that anniversary. For many years I had intended to finish a transatlantic rally in a French Caribbean island and this was my chance! On an exploratory visit to Martinique I was greatly impressed by the enthusiastic response from the various authorities to the suggestion of making their island the destination of the Atlantic Odyssey. The invitation from Eric Jean-Joseph, port captain of Marina Le Marin, led to an easy decision to host our fleet there. Concern for the environment is now a major priority for the people of this attractive island so the Atlantic Odyssey, and next year’s Blue Planet Odyssey, will provide a perfect opportunity to disseminate our message »The oceans, our heritage for the future.« But that is not the end of the story. One of the most important lessons that I learnt during my long career of organising rallies is that sailors like having a choice. Anyone planning an Atlantic crossing is faced with the dilemma of choosing the optimum start time: a late November start has the attraction of arriving in the Caribbean at the start of the safe season, which also coincides with the winter holidays. A later start from the Canaries benefits from better sailing conditions as the trade winds only become fully established in the early months of the year. As a result, participants in the Atlantic Odyssey have the choice of a later start from La Palma and a finish in Grenada. The new Marina La Palma will host the fleet in Santa Cruz, the capital of the island of La Palma, while in Grenada we shall be the guests of Le Phare Bleu Marina. It is indeed a great pleasure to stage a start of the Atlantic Odyssey from La Palma as it was from that island that I set off on my first voyage across the Atlantic on 15 November 1976. The memory of the high island vanishing behind us as the vast ocean kindly took us in its warm embrace is one of the unforgettable moments in my sailing life.

Lanzarote Atlantic Odyssey start Biosphere Reserve Marinas Atlantic Odyssey départ

La Martinique 16 An nou alé 19 Let’s go 21 La Palma

The pretty island

22 Grenada

The spice island

24 Community Projects An overview

25 Andaman and Nicobar Islands

Dispatch from the Indian Ocean

28 Talking Trash

Dealing with waste at sea

30 JCOMMOPS

A developing partnership

32 HF SSB Radio

Do you need one?

34 Managing Sailing Events

Tribulations of an event director

36 Power for Offshore Cruising

Solutions for one boat

38 Long Distance Cruising Seminar

Meet the experts

40 Spreading the Word

Literary corner

42 Blue Planet Odyssey Explorers News from participants

46 Atlantic Odyssey Argonauts News from participants

Jimmy Cornell and José Calero at the launch of Atlantic Odyssey

Next issue: October 2013 •

La Palma and Grenada

San Blas and Panama Canal

Women and Cruising

Satellite Phones

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 5


the volcanic mix in the soil created a fertility, which led farming and especially viticulture to flourish

Gwenda Cornell

Atlantic Odyssey Start

Lanzarote The result of the eruption in 1730 is a vast lunar landscape with strange twisted shapes of solidified lava

T

here are few islands in the world that have such a distinctive character as Lanzarote. Instantly recognizable wherever you go, the colours of black, white and green give a special unity to the island; black volcanic rock, dazzling whitewashed houses with bright green painted doors and windows. There is

an African feel to the villages, which is not surprising as the island is the closest of all the Canary Islands to the African coast, barely 55 miles at the nearest point. Lying on the same Atlantic seismic ridge as Iceland, Madeira and the Azores, Lanzarote is drier and flatter than the more Western Canaries, but its volcanic nature is evident with some 300 volcanoes dotted over the 60km long island, which has given it the name of Isla de los Volcanes. The last eruption in 1730 was one of the largest in recorded history and spewed out molten rock and lava over six years devastating some 200 square kilometres. This area is now a national park and is one of the premier attractions to visit. Although known since early times the island was rarely visited and the local inhabitants were rather left to their own devices. It was a marauding Genoese expedition

6 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


No buildings could be over four stories high” in the fourteenth century led by one

The distinct unity of the island is

the villages and resorts the standard

Lancelotto Malocello that gave the island

undoubtedly due to the influence of one

whitewashed cubes of houses adorned

its modern name. Lanzarote was the first

man, Cesar Manrique. Although he was

with strange onion-shaped chimney

of the Canary Islands to be claimed for

born and grew up on the island, as a

pots are punctuated by shutters and

the Spanish throne, when in 1402 the

young man he left to study art in Madrid

doors in Lanzarote green, evolved from

Norman adventurer Jean de Bethencourt

and Europe. Influenced by painters such

the copper-based paint once used by

and his crew met little resistance to

as Picasso and Matisse he made his

fishermen on their boats.

their arrival. It was the beginning of the

name internationally as an artist, but

His own house he built in volcanic

Spanish conquest. Although settlers came

following a successful American tour

bubbles underground at Tahiche. After

from Normandy and Spain, the island

in 1968 he decided to return home. He

his death in a car accident in 1992, this

did not flourish, mainly due to frequent

saw his beloved Lanzarote as a blank

house was transformed into the Cesar

attacks by Moroccan pirates as well as

canvas and turned his talent to various

Manrique Foundation to house his art

English and French buccaneers. In the

projects on the island particularly in

collection and makes for an interesting

mid seventeenth century, the population

architecture. He lobbied for maintaining

visit. Not far away is the Monumento

had been reduced to barely 300 souls.

traditional architecture and preserving

del Campesino, a huge strange sculpture

Ironically after

great volcanic

the natural environment and fortunately

built by Manrique to honour the long-

eruptions, the volcanic mix in the soil

the

the local government heeded him. Under

suffering Lanzarotean peasants toiling

created a fertility, which led farming and

his influence billboards and advertising

in the fields. Workshops featuring local

especially viticulture to flourish, but it

hoardings were forbidden and no

crafts are in the museum and beside

was twentieth century tourism that made

buildings could be over four stories

it is an interesting restaurant serving

the prosperous island of today.

high, (except in the capital Arrecife). In

local fare. Further north is another of

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 7


The distinct unity of the island is undoubtedly due to the influence of one man, Cesar Manrique” Manrique’s ideas, the Jardin de Cactus bristling in more ways than one with over 10,000 cactus plants and succulents, featuring the many species that flourish on the island. One of the most interesting places to visit is the result of an ancient lava slide into the ocean. A small wooden signpost saying “Cueva de los Verdes” in a treeless and featureless landscape belies what lies beneath, a spectacular chasm that is the longest volcanic tunnel in the world, a 8km long tube carved out 5000 years ago when the molten lava stream flowed down to the ocean. The top layers cooled to form the roof and the caverns are remarkable for their colourful rock formations. Centuries ago local people took refuge from pirates here and their artefacts, from ceramics to tools and bones, are displayed in Arrecife’s Archeological Museum. Nearby, just before the lava river got to the sea it met an underground stream and the resulting explosion formed a lake and huge cavern, now called Jameos del Agua. The ever-inventive Manrique had the idea of building bars and a restaurant around the azure lake as well as a 600 seat concert hall with perfect acoustics, where concerts are held from time to time. On the northern tip of the island is yet another of Manrique’s creations, the Mirador El Rio, a spectacular viewpoint built into an old Spanish gun emplacement with a giddying 500 metre sheer drop down the cliff and views across the El Rio straits to the small island of Graciosa. It goes without saying that a bar and restaurant grace the high domed whitewashed space. Almost at the other end of the island is the most visited site, the National Park of

To the north of the National Park, the

Timanfaya and Montana del Fuego (Fire Mountain) formed following the 1730 eruption

lava-enriched soil has lent itself to some

of the Timanfaya volcano. The result is a vast lunar landscape with strange twisted

interesting ways of growing grapes. The

shapes of solidified lava in hues of black, grey, red, copper and maroon. Nothing grows

vines are protected by small semicircular

here apart from a few lichens. The park organises buses to follow the 14 km long Ruta

stonewalls to keep the rich soil in place.

de los Volcanes as the public is not allowed outside designated areas. If one scrabbles

Mostly white wine is produced, the most

around at the top and picks up a pebble one understands why, the pebble is too hot

famous being El Grifo.

to hold. A pot of water poured into a hole in the ground immediately gushes up as

Although the volcanic landscape may be

a steaming geyser. The lookout and Restaurant del Diable was designed - yes, you

what sets Lanzarote apart, it is the sun,

guessed right – by the ubiquitous Manrique. A highlight of a meal here is watching your

sand and sea that attracts the tourists,

meal being barbequed over a hole in the ground – grilled by a volcano.

particularly in the European winter. The best resorts are towards the south of the island, Puerto de Carmen and Playa Blanca, both fronted by beaches and backed by a selection of bars, restaurants and nightspots. All the facilities that tourists need and a selection of excursions are offered in these resorts. Deep sea fishing and submarine trips are on offer at the more upmarket resort at Puerto Calero, where restaurants surround a stylish marina. If one is after a quieter time, that can be found too. Just a few miles up the coast from Playa Blanca on a dirt track are a series of small sandy coves in the

8 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


In the northwest is where Cesar Manrique spent his childhood days on the wild deserted beach at La Caleta de Fuste

Protected Nature Reserve of Punta del Papagayo. On the west coast one can find black sand lava beaches on the way to the small fishing village of El Golfo and

The surrounding lava field was allowed to spill into Cesar Manrique’s home through a panoramic window Cesar Manrique’s home

its charming seafood restaurants. In the northwest is where Cesar Manrique spent his childhood days on the wild deserted beach at La Caleta de Fuste. No longer deserted, it is still a fine long beach, a little on the wild side with few facilities apart from a few seafood restaurants. The wind blows strongly here and it is a popular place with surfers. Sailing, surfing, walking, lounging on the beach, fine dining, partying or just chilling out – there is something for everyone in Lanzarote.

Timanfaya logo by Cesar Manrique

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 9


One of the least visited countries in the South Pacific

Lanzarote

biosphere reserve

L

anzarote was declared a

and aspirations of local populations by

to guide its touristic development

biosphere reserve in 1993

reconciling conservation of resources

towards more sustainable practices. The

and it was the first time that

with their sustainable use.

biosphere reserve is fully supported by

UNESCO

Nations

In the case of Lanzarote’s unique

the local communities who take an active

Educational, Scientific and Cultural

(United

environment, due to the relatively low

role in implementing its aims.

Organization) had decided to include

altitude and gentle relief, the island

Among the factors that have contributed

a territory as a whole. The Lanzarote

does not catch the humidity of the trade

to

the

success

of

the

Lanzarote

Biosphere Reserve is made up of the

winds and the annual rainfall is very low.

experiment is the preservation of several

northernmost islands of the Canary

As a result, plants are adapted to arid

natural areas of interest, including

Archipelago. It covers 84600 ha including

conditions. In spite of this, Lanzarote has

the Timanfaya National Park, the high

the smaller northern islands, and has a

a relatively high number of species of

standard of environmental awareness

population of over 110.000. The perfect

which approximately twenty plants are

among the island’s population, the

symbiosis achieved in Lanzarote between

locally endemic.

presence of an extensive range of works

man and nature is undoubtedly the main

The harsh volcanic environment has been

tailored to the unique environment, and

reason for this international recognition.

adapted by human ingenuity to make a

the conservation of a type of agriculture

UNESCO created the concept of

highly specialised agricultural landscape

which is almost unique among island

biosphere reserves in 1976 in order to

and has inspired its inhabitants to take

cultures of our planet.

identify and retain those territories where

conservation measures. The idea of mass

The influence and inspiration of Cesar

there are representative ecosystems of a

tourism was rejected and, under the

Manrique cannot be stressed enough as

defined region and in which there are

influence of the celebrated local artist

he was the inspiration for the proposal to

the conditions that enable sustained

César Manrique, priority was given to

declare Lanzarote a biosphere reserve. His

economic development and land use

blending tourist infrastructure with the

own work integrated into the landscape

compatible with the conservation of its

beautiful but inhospitable environment.

by what he described as a symbiosis

natural resources. The main aim of such

The Island Council (Cabildo Insular)

of art and nature. This continues to be

biosphere reserves is to conserve the

regulates land use and controls excessive

a perfect example of the harmonious

diversity of our planet while, at the

urban and tourist developments. Over the

intervention of man in his environment.

same time, meeting the material needs

last thirty years, Lanzarote has managed

10 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


Marinas Take your pick

I

Marina Lanzarote Hosting the Atlantic Odyssey will be the island’s newest marina, Marina Lanzarote. Located in the harbour of the island’s capital Arrecife, it

is close to all amenities and only 15 minutes from the airport. This new yachting hub is due for completion in Spring 2014, but will already be operational when the Atlantic Odyssey arrives. With an extensive boatyard and range of maintenance services, incorporating facilities for superyachts and multihulls, together with plenty to satisfy visiting cruisers, Marina Lanzarote is destined to become another significant destination for sailors in the Canaries. VHF 9/16 400 berths, 250 Visitors berths, Max LOA 70m, Max draft 5m. Reservations: reservas@puertocalero.com

II

Puerto Calero The first high quality marina to be established in

III

Marina Rubicon On the south coast of the island, the full service Marina Rubicón is surrounded by a commercial area, shops, restaurants, terraces and swimming

Lanzarote, Puerto Calero is very well protected

pool, all integrated within the natural surroundings. The unspoilt

and offers all the facilities that might be required

beaches of Papagayo are nearby and it is a short walk along a

upon arriving in port. The busy boatyard includes reliable repair

pedestrian seafront promenade to the resort of Playa Blanca.

and maintenance services and the quiet waterfront is replete

The climate allows you to enjoy your boat all year round. The

with a wide variety of both gourmet and good-value restaurants.

marina’s proximity to the Isla de Lobos and Fuerteventura is also

Shops, spas and sports activities are all available and the marina

a major attraction.

organises talks and events for visiting cruisers. With the airport

VHF 9

only 12km away, Puerto Calero is a popular choice for sailors

550 berths, some visitors berths, Max LOA 70m, Max draft 4.5m.

wishing to leave their boat in the Canaries.

Reservations: info@marinarubicon.com

VHF 9/16

Boatyard: varadero@marinarubicon.com

450 berths, 225 Visitors berths, Max LOA 70m, Max draft 5m. Reservations: reservas@puertocalero.com

All the above three marinas are full service marinas with

Boatyard: varadero@puertocalero.com

reception dock, berthing assistance, fuel, showers, launderette, internet access, weather forecasts, 24 hr security, boatyard, travel-lift, chandlery, mechanics, sail repair and maintenance available.

IV

Playa Blanca Previously a tiny fishing village, the port of Playa Blanca has gradually expanded into a larger tourist resort along the south coast of the island.

The small port has some floating pontoons where a few places are normally available to visitors. Playa Blanca is also the ferry port connecting Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. There is fuel, water, electricity and a travel lift, but no showers, nor chandlery and repair facilities on site.

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 11


Ironiquement, après les grandes éruptions volcaniques, le sol fut enrichi et devint fertile, permettant à l’agriculture et surtout à la viticulture de s’épanoui

Gwenda Cornell

Atlantic Odyssey Départ

Lanzarote L’éruption en 1730 formée un vaste paysage lunaire aux étranges formations torturées de lave solidifiée

P

eu d’îles dans le monde ont un caractère aussi distinctif que Lanzarote. Où que l’on aille, on la reconnaît instantanément aux couleurs noires, blanches et vertes qui lui donnent cette unité si spéciale : la roche volcanique noire, les éblouissantes maisons blanchies à la chaux avec leurs portes et leurs

fenêtres d’un vert brillant. Il y a un parfum d’Afrique dans ces villages, ce qui n’est pas surprenant quand on sait que c’est l’île des Canaries la plus proche de la côte africaine, à peine à 55 milles au point le plus proche. Située sur la même dorsale sismique atlantique que l’Islande, Madère et les Açores, Lanzarote est plus aride et plate que les îles plus à l’ouest des Canaries, mais sa nature volcanique est évidente, avec quelques 300 volcans éparpillés sur les 60 km de long de l’île, ce qui lui a valu le nom de Isla de los Volcanes. La dernière éruption en 1730 fut l’une des plus importantes enregistrées dans l’histoire, et rejeta de la roche et de la lave en fusion pendant plus de six ans, dévastant quelques 200 kilomètres carrés. Cette région est aujourd’hui un parc national et l’une des premières attractions à visiter.

12 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


La hauteur des immeubles limitée à quatre étages” Bien que connue depuis des temps

grandes éruptions volcaniques, le sol

préserver l’environnement naturel et fut

anciens, l’île était rarement visitée et

fut enrichi et devint fertile, permettant

heureusement suivi par le gouvernement.

ses habitants étaient laissés à leur

à l’agriculture et surtout à la viticulture

Sous

propre sort. C’est une expédition génoise

de s’épanouir, mais c’est le tourisme du

publicitaires

de pillards conduite par un certain

vingtième siècle qui développa l’île

interdits et la hauteur des immeubles

Lancelotto Malocello qui donna à l’île

prospère d’aujourd’hui.

limitée à quatre étages, sauf dans la

son nom actuel. Lanzarote fut la première

L’identité

est

capitale Arrecife. Dans les villages et

île des Canaries à être revendiquée par

indubitablement le résultat de l’influence

les stations touristiques, les classiques

le trône d’Espagne, par l’intermédiaire

d’un homme, Cesar Manrique. Né et élevé

maisons cubiques blanchies à la chaux

de

l’aventurier

normand

Jean

distincte

de

l’île

son

influence, les et

panneaux

d’affichage

furent

de

sur l’île, il partit jeune homme étudier

ornées d’étranges cheminées en forme

Bethencourt et de son équipage qui ne

l’art à Madrid et en Europe. Influencé par

de bulbe sont ponctuées de volets et

rencontrèrent que peu de résistance à

des peintres comme Picasso et Matisse,

de portes peints de la couleur verte de

leur arrivée en 1402. C’était le début de la

il devint un artiste internationalement

Lanzarote, dérivée de la peinture à base

conquête espagnole. Des colons vinrent

reconnu, mais décida de rentrer chez

de cuivre utilisée jadis par les pêcheurs

de Normandie et d’Espagne, mais l’île ne

lui après une tournée pleine de succès

pour leurs bateaux. Il construisit sa

se développa guère, essentiellement à

en Amérique en 1968. Sa bien aimée

propre maison dans des bulles de lave

cause des attaques fréquentes des pirates

Lanzarote lui apparut comme une toile

souterraines à Tahiche. Après sa mort

marocains et des flibustiers français

vierge et il mit son talent au service de

dans un accident de voiture en 1992,

et anglais. Au milieu du dix-septième

différents projets sur l’île, notamment

sa maison a été transformée en une

siècle, la population se réduisait à 300

en architecture. Il fit pression pour

fondation Cesar Manrique pour abriter

âmes à peine. Ironiquement, après les

conserver l’architecture traditionnelle et

sa collection d’art. C’est une visite très

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 13


L’identité distincte de l’île est indubitablement le résultat de l’influence d’un homme, Cesar Manrique” intéressante à faire. Non loin de là se trouve le Monumento del Campesino, une gigantesque et étrange culture construite par Manrique pour honorer les paysans qui souffrent depuis longtemps pour travailler la terre. Des ateliers d’artisanat local sont situés dans le musée et il y a un intéressant restaurant à côté qui sert des plats locaux. Plus au nord le Jardin de Cactus, une autre idée de Manrique, est hérissé (à plus d’un titre !) de quelques 10 000 cactus et plantes grasses, représentant les nombreuses espèces qui s’épanouissent sur l’île. L’un des endroits les plus intéressants à visiter résulte du glissement ancien d’une coulée de lave dans l’océan. Un petit panneau en bois indiquant “Cueva de los Verdes”, dans un paysage sans arbres et sans relief, ne reflète pas ce qui se cache en-dessous : un gouffre spectaculaire qui est le plus long tunnel volcanique du monde, un long tube de 8 km creusé il y a 5000 ans quand la lave en fusion coulait dans l’océan. Les couches supérieures se sont refroidies pour former le toit, et les cavernes présentent de remarquables formations de roches colorées. Des siècles auparavant, les habitants locaux s’y abritaient des pirates et leurs objets, des céramiques, des outils et des ossements, sont exposés au Musée Archéologique d’Arrecife. A côté, juste avant que la rivière de lave n’ait pénétré la mer, elle a rencontré une coulée souterraine et l’explosion

La résidence de Cesar Manrique

qui en a résulté a formé un lac et une immense caverne, aujourd’hui appelée Jameos de Agua. Le toujours inventif Manrique a eu l’idée de construire des bars et un restaurant autour du lac d’azur, ainsi qu’une salle de concert de 600 places à l’acoustique parfaite, où des concerts sont donnés de temps en temps. A l’extrémité nord de l’île, on trouve encore une autre des créations de Manrique, le Mirador El Rio, un point de vue spectaculaire construit à l’emplacement d’une vieille

formations torturées de lave solidifiée

batterie de canons espagnole. Du haut d’un à pic vertigineux de 500 mètres, au sommet

aux teintes noires, grises, rouges, ocres

de la falaise, on a une vue splendide à travers le détroit El Rio sur l’île de Graciosa.

et marrons. Rien ne pousse ici à part

Bien entendu, un bar-restaurant occupe cet espace blanchi à la chaux et couvert d’un

quelques lichens. Le parc organise des

grand dôme.

visites en bus le long des 14 km de

Presque à l’autre bout de l’île, se trouvent les sites les plus visités, le parc national

la Ruta de los Volcanes, car le public

de Timanfaya et la Montaña Del Fuego (Montagne de Feu), formée à la suite de

n’est pas autorisé en dehors des aires

l’éruption du volcan Timanfaya en 1730. C’est un vaste paysage lunaire aux étranges

désignées. On comprend pourquoi quand on s’aventure à ramasser un caillou : il est trop chaud pour le tenir en main. Un récipient rempli d’eau versé dans un trou dans le sol rejaillit immédiatement en un geyser de vapeur. Le point de vue et le Restaurant del Diable ont été dessinés par, devinez qui, l’omniprésent Manrique. Ici, le clou de votre déjeuner sera de le regarder cuire sur un barbecue réalisé dans un trou dans le sol – un barbecue volcanique en somme. Au nord du parc national, le sol fertilisé par la lave a donné lieu à une façon originale de cultiver la vigne : les plants

14 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


Au nord-ouest, Cesar Manrique a passé son enfance sur la plage sauvage et déserte de La Caleta de Fuste sont protégés par de petits murets de

marina. Si l’on cherche des moments plus

pierres circulaires pour garder le riche

tranquilles, la réserve naturelle protégée

sol en place. Le vin blanc est l’essentiel

de Punta del Papagayo, à quelques milles

de la production, le plus fameux étant

de piste poussiéreuse de Playa Blanca

El Grifo.

sur la côte offre une série de petites

Bien que le paysage volcanique soit

criques sablonneuses. Sur la côte ouest,

ce qui caractérise Lanzarote, c’est le

on peut trouver des plages de sable noir

soleil, le sable et la mer qui attirent

volcanique sur le chemin du petit village

les touristes, particulièrement pendant

de pêche de El Golfo et de ses charmants

l’hiver en Europe. Les meilleures stations

restaurants de fruits de mer.

balnéaires sont vers le sud de l’île, Puerto

Au nord-ouest, Cesar Manrique a passé

Carmen et Playa Blanca, toutes deux

son enfance sur la plage sauvage et

bordées de plages et d’un bon choix de

déserte de La Caleta de Fuste. Elle n’est

bars, de restaurants et d’établissements

plus déserte, mais c’est toujours une belle

nocturnes. On trouve dans ces stations

et longue plage, assez sauvage, avec peu

toutes les infrastructures recherchées

d’installations en dehors de quelques

par les touristes ainsi qu’une sélection

restaurants de fruits de mer. Le vent y

d’excursions. Des sorties de pêche en

souffle fort et les surfeurs l’apprécient.

eau profonde et des promenades sous-

Naviguer, surfer, marcher, lézarder sur

marines sont proposées par la station

la plage, bien manger, faire la fête ou

plus haut de gamme de Puerto Calero, où

simplement décompresser – chacun

les restaurants entourent une élégante

trouvera son bonheur à Lanzarote.

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 15


Jimmy Cornell, Marie Lynn Toussaint (Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme) et Eric Jean-Joseph (capitaine port du Marin)

Pascal Guiraudou

La Martinique An Nou Alé !

*

L

humide, de juillet à octobre, est marquée par des averses plus nombreuses et plus fortes et des températures plus

es indiens Caraïbes, qui la

ses habitants accueillants, qui aiment

élevées (31°C à 32°C). L’humidité est

peuplaient jadis, l’appelaient

partager leurs traditions quand on prend

forte et le vent souvent faible. En cette

Madinina, “l’île aux fleurs”.

le temps de les écouter.

saison, certaines perturbations peuvent

Christophe Colomb aurait

La Martinique est au coeur de l’arc des

évoluer en dépression tropicale, tempête

répété ce nom quand il y débarqua lors

Petites Antilles, dans la mer des Caraïbes,

tropicale ou parfois ouragan.

de son quatrième voyage, le 15 juin

entre la Dominique, au nord et Sainte-

A partir de 2500 av. J-C, des populations

1502, nom qui se transforma ensuite en

Lucie au sud. A quelques 2800 milles

amérindiennes arrivèrent du bassin de

Martinique. A moins qu’il n’ait baptisé l’île

nautiques de Lanzarote en bateau, elle

l’Orénoque par vagues successives. Puis

du nom du saint du jour, Saint-Martin ?

n’est qu’à 9 heures d’avion de l’Europe et

les indiens Arawak s’établirent sur l’île

Quoi qu’il en soit, pour les navigateurs

3 heures de Miami. Elle est peuplée de

vers 500 av. J-C. Peu avant l’an 1000,

traversant l’Atlantique, la Martinique c’est

400 000 habitants. La langue officielle

les indiens Caraïbes, venus du plateau

d’abord la promesse d’un repos bien

est le français, mais le créole est aussi

des Guyanes, remontent à leur tour l’arc

mérité et d’un cocktail de rêve à l’arrivée :

parlé couramment.

antillais et remplacent peu à peu les

mouillages fantastiques, soleil et chaleur

Le climat est tropical, avec deux saisons

populations antérieures. En 1502, ils

tempérés par l’alizé, paysages d’une

distinctes. La saison sèche, de février

occupent la Martinique quand Christophe

diversité spectaculaire et végétation

à avril, bénéficie d’un bon alizé d’est

Colomb y débarque lors de son quatrième

exubérante, senteurs exquises des fleurs

à nord-est. Le temps est ensoleillé et

voyage.

et saveurs épicées de sa gastronomie

peu pluvieux et les températures ne

En 1635, Richelieu envoie des colons

créole, rencontres authentiques avec

dépassent pas 28°C à 30°C. La saison

s’accaparer la Martinique et y planter de

16 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013

* Allons-y ! (en créole)


la canne à sucre. Le roi Louis XIII autorise alors l’esclavage dans les Antilles Françaises. En 1658, les derniers Caraïbes sont tués ou chassés sur la Dominique. La canne à sucre devient l’or de la Martinique, attaquée et occupée quatre fois entre 1762 et 1814 par la flotte anglaise. L’esclavage est enfin définitivement aboli le 22 mai 1848, grâce à Victor Schoelcher, homme politique français dont une ville de Martinique porte le nom. La fabrication du sucre en Europe à partir de la betterave amorce le déclin de la richesse martiniquaise. Le 8 Mai 1902 la terrible éruption du volcan de la Montagne Pelée sur Saint-Pierre, la plus grosse catastrophe volcanique moderne, fait 30 000 morts. Fort-de-France devient alors la capitale de la Martinique. Aujourd’hui l’activité économique se partage entre l’agriculture (banane et canne à sucre), l’industrie légère et les services, et le tourisme, sur terre comme sur mer. La Martinique côté mer Côté mer, les plages, les falaises, les tombants impressionnants et les hauts fonds, les îles et les récifs coralliens se succèdent le long des 350 km de côtes. Découvrir la Martinique sur son propre bateau, et la faire découvrir à ses amis et à sa famille, est un privilège qui permet d’en explorer les plus beaux mouillages. Sur la côte sous le vent, on a le choix entre mouillages organisés ou autorisés.

Sur la côte sud, protégé par la presqu’île

bordent de petits villages de pêcheurs où

du sud-est, le mouillage de Sainte-Anne

il fait bon s’attarder le soir pour déguster

est l’un des plus prisés. Unique, avec

la cuisine locale.

des mouillages calmes et bien souvent déserts, la côte au vent est l’une des

La Martinique côté terre

plus belles des Petites Antilles, avec une

En allant vers l’intérieur de la Martinique,

multitude de mouillages tranquilles.

le terrain s’élève, vers le centre d’abord.

La plongée est une activité majeure

Les campagnes des secteurs secs, vouées

en Martinique, avec des sites pour tous

à l’élevage, contrastent avec les régions

niveaux dans une eau d’une excellente

plus humides où l’on cultive la canne à

visibilité et toujours entre 26°C et 30°C.

sucre ou la banane. Au nord, viennent

Et pour les promenades ou le farniente,

les hautes montagnes, avec les Pitons

il suffit de rejoindre le rivage en annexe

du Carbet et la Montagne Pelée, point

pour profiter de plages de rêve. Certaines

culminant de l’île à 1397 m. La forêt est très variée : tropicale humide

Le port de plaisance du Marin

sur les reliefs du nord, sèche ou semihumide dans le sud, jusqu’à la mangrove des bords de mer. Au total, on y trouve 396 espèces d’arbres. Pour découvrir une telle beauté naturelle, ses sites préservés et ses panoramas grandioses, rien de tel que la marche à pied.. Elle permet de vivre des sensations fortes et des émotions intenses, lorsqu’on traverse la forêt primaire luxuriante ou que l’on parvient enfin au sommet d’une crête et que l’on peut admirer la mer des Caraïbes, ou l’île de la Dominique qui émerge au loin… Au passage, les paysages les plus variés défilent : plages,

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 17


forêts, philodendrons de la Montagne Pelée… Beaucoup de randonnées sont balisées, comme par exemple l’ascension de la montagne Pelée ou la remontée des gorges de la Falaise. La Martinique porte bien son surnom d’« île aux fleurs » : une multitude de variétés aux formes et aux couleurs variées poussent ici et donnent à l’île une élégance incontestable, que ce soit dans la nature sauvage ou dans les parcs et jardins ouverts au public. On peut aussi aborder l’intérieur de l’île par des activités plus sportives : à cheval ou en VTT, en canoë-kayak dans la mangrove ou en canyoning dans les torrents et les cascades. Mais pour les moins aventureux, la visite de l’île en voiture est aussi un bon moyen de découvrir ses paysages, son patrimoine, son artisanat, et sa gastronomie, ainsi que de s’imprégner de la culture martiniquaise au travers de fêtes ou de scènes de la vie quotidienne. Patrimoine et Culture La Martinique est un lieu de souvenir, avec des sites historiques rappelant la vie difficile des esclaves et de nombreux festivals qui célèbrent l’apport des différents peuples qui ont forgé son histoire. C’est cette année le centième anniversaire de la naissance d’Aimé Césaire, poète et écrivain de renommée internationale et aussi homme politique engagé, fervent défenseur de la négritude, qui a marqué l’histoire de la Martinique.

Fort de France

L’économie de plantation de l’île a fortement influencé son patrimoine et sa culture. On peut visiter d’anciennes maisons

du Rhum le 15 décembre à la distillerie Saint-James, et si vous

de maître à l’architecture coloniale, et certaines distilleries

êtes encore là en février, assister au carnaval martiniquais qui

sont devenues des lieux de culture ou des musées. Les

envahit les rues de festivités colorées et musicales.

marchés traditionnels sont une autre facette de la Martinique authentique. Hauts en couleurs et activement fréquentés par

Le Nautisme en Martinique

les Martiniquais, il y flotte des parfums de vanille et d’épices

Le nautisme est très développé en Martinique, avec plus de

exotiques. On peut aussi y gouter quelques spécialités locales

3000 voiliers immatriculés, et la flotte de plaisance ne cesse

ou y découvrir l’artisanat martiniquais.

de croître. La ville du Marin est la capitale nautique de la Martinique. Le

Manger et faire la fête

port de plaisance du Marin, l’un des plus grands des Caraïbes,

On n’apprécie jamais autant un bon repas qu’après une longue

est équipé de 750 anneaux et 100 bouées. Le Marin dispose

traversée océanique. Ça tombe bien : la gastronomie locale

aussi d’un centre de carénage, Carenantilles, qui peut accueillir

abonde de plats traditionnels typiques et succulents. La

environ 200 bateaux et dispose de moyens de levage importants

Martinique produit le fameux rhum agricole, élaboré à partir du

(jusqu’à 55 T). Une vingtaine de corps de métiers dédiés à la

jus de la canne à sucre pressée, qui se boit en toutes occasions

mer y sont présents. Au total, 130 entreprises travaillent dans le

et fait partie de l’art de vivre tropical. Rhum blanc, ambré, ou

secteur du nautisme en Martinique.

vieux, il y en a pour tous les goûts et toutes les circonstances.

Il y a d’autres marinas, comme celles de Trois-Ilets, ou de

Le traditionnel Ti-Punch, préparé à base de sucre de canne, de

l’Etang Z’Abricots, en développement près de Fort-de-France, qui

citron vert et de rhum blanc, est incontournable.

disposera de 900 anneaux.

Après votre traversée de l’Atlantique vous arriverez juste au bon

Outre le Tour des Yoles Rondes, course de bateaux traditionnels

moment pour profiter de la période festive de Noël. Vous vivrez

haute en couleur, plusieurs événements nautiques se déroulent

les « chantés Nwel », chants traditionnels des Noël antillais,

ou atterrissent en Martinique, notamment la Transquadra, course

qui sont l’occasion de rencontrer les Martiniquais dans cette

en solitaire ou en double réservées aux équipages de plus de

période de partage et de convivialité. Des groupes de musique

quarante ans, ou la Transat Brest/Martinique en solitaire.

se produisent en plein air, dans les rues, et célèbrent l’esprit

Et bien, sûr à partir de cette année, il faut y ajouter l’Atlantic

de Noël avant l’heure. Vous pourrez aussi participer à la fête

Odyssey !

18 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


Pascal Guiraudou

Martinique An Nou Alé !*

rainfall and higher temperatures (31°C to 32°C). Humidity is high and winds are

C

generally light. In this season, weather alled Madinina or ‘Island

share their traditions with anyone ready

systems may develop into tropical

of Flowers’ by the original

to take the time to listen.

depressions, storms and sometimes

inhabitants, the Caribs, the

Martinique lies at the heart of the Lesser

hurricanes.

name must have come to the

Antilles between Dominica to the north

From 2,500 BCE, waves of successive

attention of Christopher Colombus, who

and Saint Lucia to the south. Some 2800

Amerindian peoples arrived from the

visited the island on 15 June 1502 on his

nautical miles by boat from Lanzarote,

Orinoco basin. Thereafter the Arawaks

fourth voyage, as it subsequently evolved

the island is only nine hours by plane

settled in the island around 500 BCE.

to ‘Martinique’.

from Europe and three from Miami. The

Around the year 1000 CE the Caribs, who

For any sailor crossing the Atlantic,

population numbers 400 000 and the

originated from the northern coast of

Martinique promises a well-earned

official language is French, although

South America, travelled up the Antilles

rest and a dream-come-true cocktail

Creole is also widely spoken.

chain of islands, gradually replacing the

of delights: fantastic anchorages, the

The climate is tropical, with two distinct

populations they found there. By 1502

sun and the heat tempered by gentle

seasons. The dry season, from February

they had occupied Martinique, when

tradewinds; landscapes spectacular in

to April, enjoys brisk easterly to north

Christopher Colombus landed during his

their diversity and lush vegetation; the

easterly trade winds. The weather is

fourth voyage to the New World.

exquisite fragrances of tropical flowers

mostly sunny, rain is infrequent, and

In 1635 Richelieu dispatched colonists

and spicy flavours of Creole cuisine; and

temperatures rarely exceed 28°C to 30°C.

from France to establish a trading

last but not least a genuine welcome

The rainy season, from July to October,

monopoly and they began to cultivate

from the local inhabitants, who love to

is marked by more frequent and heavy

sugar on Martinique. King Louis XIII

* Let’s go … Allons-y ! (in créole)

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 19


Sugar cane plantations at Havre de la Trinité subsequently approved the use of slavery in the French Antilles. In 1658 the last Caribs were hunted and killed in Dominica. Sugar cane was like gold dust, so Martinique was attacked and occupied four times between 1762 and 1814 by the English Navy. Slavery was finally abolished on 22 May 1848, thanks in part to Victor Schoelcher, a French politician who now has a Martinique town named in his honour. The growth in sugar production from sugar beet in Europe contributed to the decline in Martinique’s prosperity. On the 8th of May 1902 the devastating volcanic eruption of Mount Pelée on Saint-Pierre, the worst volcanic catastrophe of modern times, caused 30,000 deaths. As a result Fort-de-France became the new capital of Martinique. Today the economy relies on agriculture (bananas and sugar cane), light industry and services, as well as sea and land-

On the southern coast, protected by the

stroll on an idyllic beach. Some are

based tourism.

south-eastern peninsula, the Sainte-Anne

bordered by little fishing villages where

anchorage is one of the most popular.

it is worth spending the evening in order

The Martinique Coastline

The windward side of the island is one of

to enjoy the local cuisine.

Along the 350 kilometres of coast, you

the most beautiful in the Lesser Antilles,

will find a succession of beaches, cliffs,

with a multitude of calm and often

Inland Martinique

impressive drop-offs and shallow areas,

deserted places to drop the anchor.

As you travel into the island’s interior,

islets and coral reefs.

Diving is an important activity in

the land rises towards the high central

Discovering Martinique on your own boat,

Martinique, with sites for all diving

region. Drier areas devoted to livestock

or sharing the discovery with friends and

abilities – the visibility is excellent and

farming contrast with parts of the island

family, is a privilege which allows you to

the water remains between a pleasant

which are humid and used for sugar and

explore the most stunning anchorages.

26°C and 30°C. For those who enjoy a

banana plantations. To the north are

On the leeward side, you can choose

leisurely walk, all you need do is step

the highest mountains, with the extinct

between a range of official anchorages.

ashore from your dinghy for a relaxing

volcanic range the Pitons du Carbet and Mount Pelée, which at 1397 metres is the

Anchorage in the bay of Saint-Pierre

island’s highest point. The forest scenery varies tremendously from the tropical humidity of the northern slopes, to the dry, semi-humid south and the coastal mangrove swamps. Nearly four hundred different species of tree have been recorded. In order to fully appreciate this natural beauty, the protected areas and grand panoramas, nothing beats walking, fully experiencing the sensation of traversing a lush primitive forest or the emotion of reaching the summit in order to admire the Caribbean sea below, with Dominica visible in the distance. From beaches to


forests and the philodendrons of Mount Pelée, many of these walks are well sign-posted, for example the summit walk to Mount Pelée and the Falaise gorges walk. Martinique truly deserves its nickname of the ‘island of flowers’: such a bewildering array of shapes and colours grow here, endowing the island with an elegance to be found in the wild as well as the parks and public gardens. The interior can also be enjoyed by a range of other sporting activities, from horseback to mountain bike, canoe rides through the mangroves or down the gorges through rapids and waterfalls. For the less adventurous, hiring a car is a great way to explore the island’s scenery, heritage, crafts and cuisine, as well as soaking up the martiniquaise culture through its numerous festivals and daily life.

Saint James rum distillery

Heritage and Culture

Sailing in Martinique

Martinique’s landscape is imbued with memory, with historic

Sailing is well established in Martinique, with more than 3000

sites recalling the difficult lives of slaves, and many festivals

boats registered locally, and the number of pleasure boats keeps

celebrating the contributions of different peoples to the island’s

on increasing.

rich history. 2013 marks the centenary of the birth of Aimé

The town of Marin is the nautical centre of Martinique. The

Césaire, the internationally renowned poet and writer who was

marina at Le Marin is one of the largest in the Caribbean, with

also a commited politician and fervent proponent of négritude,

750 pontoon berths and 100 moorings. Le Marin also has a large

a notable movement amongst francophone black intellectuals

boatyard, Carenantilles, with space for around 200 boats and

and artists in the first part of the 20th century, and who left his

a 55 ton travelift. A wide range of marine and repair services

mark on the history of his island.

are based on the site. In total, some 130 marine companies are

Martinique’s plantation economy has strongly influenced the

located in Martinique.

island’s heritage and culture. You can visit former plantation

There are other marinas on the island, such as Trois-Ilets, or

owners’ mansions, as well as distilleries that have been converted

l’Etang Z’Abricots, which is being developed close to Fort-de-

into cultural centres or museums. The traditional markets are

France, with a projected total of 900 berths.

another expression of the ‘authentic’ Martinique. These are full

As well as the Tour des Yoles Rondes, a vintage boat race, various

of local colour and popular with the Martiniquais themselves; a

nautical events take place in Martinique or make the island their

place to imbibe the scents of exotic spices and delicious vanilla

destination, most notably the Transquadra, a race reserved for

fragrances. Here you can sample local specialities and discover

single or double-handers more than 40 years old, and the single-

martiniquais crafts.

handed Transat Brest/Martinique. And of course, this year, we mustn’t forget to add – the Atlantic

Eating and Making Merry

Odyssey !

A good meal is never more appreciated than after a long ocean crossing. It’s a good thing then that the local cuisine is rich in traditional delicious dishes. Not to mention the island’s famous rum, distilled from the juice of the sugar cane, which is drunk on all occasions and is an integral part of the tropical art de vivre. Rum may be white, golden, or aged – there is a flavour for everyone and for every circumstance. The traditional Ti-Punch, prepared with sugar cane juice, limes and white rum, is a must. After your Atlantic crossing you will arrive just in time to relish the Christmas festive season. Enjoy the “chantés Nwel”, as local people gather together to sing these traditional Antilles Christmas songs. Groups of musicians perform outside, in the streets, celebrating the arrival of Christmas. You can also take part in the fête du Rhum on the 15 December at the Saint-James distillery… and if you are still there in February, the Martinique Carnival takes over the streets with colour and music. Marina Z’Abricots Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 21


Atlantic Odyssey2

The islands of La Palma and Grenada could not be more different, the former a massive bloc of volcanic rock soaring

On the principle that small is beautiful,

above the clouds, the latter a lush tropical

we have chosen two boutique marinas

paradise

on the two sides of the Atlantic for the

committed suicide en masse when their

benefit of those who prefer to cross the

earthly Garden of Even was snatched

pond after the Christmas and New Year

away from them. Both islands will be

festivities are over. Thus, at a stroke, the

featured in detail in the next edition

Atlantic Odyssey had four hosts, and

of the Blue Planet Log, but here is a

thus should be correctly called Atlantic

foretaste of what expects those who will

Odyssey2.

subscribe to the Atlantic Odyssey2.

La Palma I

whose

native

inhabitants

The Pretty Island

n contrast to the arid volcanic

memory. Capturing the humidity from the

the type of street lights, have made this

landscape of Lanzarote, the most

trade winds the rich volcanic soil is very

observatory important.

westerly island in the Canaries, La

fertile, producing a strong wine and the

La Palma has long been a favourite

Palma, is the greenest and has been

sought after small but very tasty bananas.

departure point for sailors on their

christened “La Isla Bonita�, the pretty

La Palma has the highest ratio of altitude

Atlantic crossing, not only because of its

island. Even so it is still volcanic in nature

to area of any island in the world, rising

more westerly position, but also due to

and boasts the largest volcanic crater

to over 2400 m at its highest point. Close

the charm of its capital Santa Cruz de

in the world, the Caldera de Taburiente,

to the top are clustered the many domes

la Palma. Regarded as one of the most

some 27 km in circumference. This is

and telescopes of the International

pleasant towns in the Canaries with

now extinct and its walls are covered

Astrophysical Observatory, a visit to

its pretty houses, cobbled main street

with many shades of greenery. A chain of

which has been the highlight of previous

and bustling market, the new La Palma

extinct volcanoes runs down the spine

sailing events. Clear skies, an unpolluted

Marina in the centre of the town will

of the island to the south where there

atmosphere due to no large industry

undoubtedly add to its popularity among

have been several eruptions within living

on the island and even restrictions on

the cruising community.


T

St George’s Harbour he most southerly of the Windward Islands, Grenada is a beautiful island with lush mountains and silvery beaches. Renowned for its great variety of spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, mace and cloves,

Grenada is proud of its epithet as the Spice Island. The attractive

capital St George’s is built around a fine natural harbour.

Grenada The Spice Island

The Caribs who originally lived on Grenada called their home Camerhogue, then the Spanish gave it the name of Granada after the town in Spain. Carib hostility delayed the European invasion, but finally the French settled and the Caribs were exterminated. The country was ceded to Britain in 1763 and full independence granted in 1974. English is the main language but some French patois is still spoken. The climate is tropical and the hurricane season lasts from June to November. Although most hurricanes pass to the north of the island, on rare occasions the island has been hit, as happened in September 2004 when Hurricane Ivan destroyed much of the island’s infrastructure. The southern part of the island has many deep inlets both on the protected western side as well as on the eastern windward coast. Several marinas are located in this area and the best facilities are also concentrated here. Le Phare Bleu Marina is located in Calivigny Bay. Situated conveniently close to the Grenadines, with which it is linked by its smaller sisters, Carriacou and Petit Martinique, Grenada is the turning point for yachts cruising down the chain of the Windward Islands.

Le Phare Bleu Marina

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 23


Jimmy Cornell

Community projects along the way

O

Making water, making friends in San Bas

n a flight to Annapolis last

of my voyaging, as journalist I had taken

engine to supplying clean water from a

October, where Doina and

an interest in the life and preoccupations

watermaker, or handing out antimalarial

I had been invited to take

of the people in the places we visited.

tablets or antibiotics, when these were

part in the Cruising World

It started in the Caribbean where my

not available.

program of seminars, I read

reports and interviews on the traditions,

All these actions were in response to

an article about the effects of climate

folk tales, music and dances, that had

specific requests, and identifying such

change on the oceans, and how the rapid

been kept alive in the islands, were

needs in advance is almost impossible.

acidification caused by the absorption of

broadcast by the BBC World Service “Good

Also, we have to be very careful not

carbon dioxide will eventually lead to

Morning Africa” programme. In the South

to be patronising and to respect the

the death of the oceans and ultimately

Pacific, my reports on community projects

communities that accept us as their

of human civilization. I realised that

on the BBC programme “Hello Tomorrow”

guests. Helping people is a delicate

15 years had gone by since a fleet of

were rebroadcast by radio stations in

matter, aid-fatigue is now a widespread

32 boats had set off from Lisbon to carry

every English speaking country that we

phenomenon, so we must avoid making

around the message of the Expo 98

visited… from reporting on the work of

the mistakes of others. In fact, there

world exhibition “The oceans, a heritage

the Potato Institute in the High Andes,

is much we can learn from these

for the future”. In the intervening years

to the project of using methane gas

communities, for example in the way

the situation has gone from bad to worse

collected from a pig farm to light the

they care for the elderly, weak or disabled

and almost nothing had been done to

streets of a Tongan village… My work for

in their midst. As one village elder

save the oceans and implicitly the planet.

the magazine Pacific Islands Monthly, and

remarked to a couple keen to adopt a

I turned to Doina and said; “Don’t you

the daily programme broadcast by Radio

child from a Polynesian village, “We have

think that we should resurrect that

New Zealand to the islands, culminated

no unwanted children, all our children

message and carry it around the world

in official invitations to attend the

are loved and cared for, however they

once again?”

independence celebrations of the Ellice

came to be born”.

Her response was instantaneous: “Yes, do

Islands (Tuvalu) and the Gilbert Islands

The islands, such as Tokelau featured

it, because if you don’t, no one else will!”

(Kiribati). I continued my journalistic

in the last issue, and the Andamans,

So it came to pass that a dozen years after

work on my subsequent voyages, and

which are featured here, are making a

I had promised Gwenda that my career of

made a point of renewing on every

great effort to deal with the problems of

sailing events organiser was over and

occasion the contacts and friendships I

climate change that our lifestyles in the

done with, I decided to put retirement

had forged over the years.

developed nations have exacerbated. It is

on hold once again and launch the Blue

Some participants in the Blue Planet

up to all of us to help when and where

Planet Odyssey. From the very beginning

Odyssey have expressed an interest

we can, as we most certainly will. We have

I made it very clear that this was not to

in what the community projects will

such an impressive range of skills among

be just another round the world rally,

be as they have not been covered as

our participants that I am convinced that

but an event with a higher purpose,

much as the scientific and educational

we shall have plenty of opportunities to

that of raising awareness of climate

programs. This is because it is almost

put them to good use. Emily’s article on

change, and especially its effects on

impossible to identify the ways in which

dealing with waste is a perfect example

remote island communities. I knew some

we can help before we actually arrive in

and a good place to start.

of those communities very well as I had

a community. Almost all the examples

visited them on more than one occasion

I quote above arose during my actual

during my many years of vagabonding

visit to the place in question. I can

on the oceans. My rapport with local

think of many other examples when

communities was not just personal, but

sailors have helped communities or

also professional, as from the very start

people in need, from fixing an outboard

24 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013

Farewell water organ performance in Gaua, Vanuatu


Denis Giles – Andaman Chronicle

The Andaman

and Nicobar Islands

L

ocated approximately 1200 km

Island, whose beaches are rated among

(700 miles) east of the Indian

the best in the world. Northeast of

mainland, of which they form

Ritchie’s Archipelago are two islands of

a political entity, the Andaman

volcanic origin, Narcondam and Barren

and Nicobar Islands are becoming a

Island (India’s only active volcano).

new cruising destination for yachts. At

The climate is tropical, always warm

present an average of 100 yachts visit

with a pleasant sea-breeze. The twice

the islands annually. Although there are

yearly rainy season is under the influence

some official constraints, there seems to

of southwest monsoon from mid-May

be an eagerness to promote yachting in

to September, and northeast monsoon

Andamans. There are plenty of natural

from November to January. There is no

harbours in the islands but at present

extreme climate except the rains and

yachts are only allowed in certain places

tropical storms in late summer. There is

in the Andamans, while the Nicobar

little wind or calms only from January to

Islands are completely out of bounds for

April and to some extent in October.

foreigners, being a tribal reserve.

The island chain is the home of six

The territory lies 150 km (93 miles) north

aboriginal tribes, four in the Andaman

of Aceh in Indonesia and is separated

Islands and two in the Nicobars, known

from Thailand and Burma by the Andaman

to have settled in the islands more than

Sea. It comprises two island groups,

60,000 years ago. Their numbers cannot

the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar

be assessed accurately as the authorities

Islands, separated by the 10° N parallel,

attempt to keep contacts with some

with the Andamans to the north of this

of the tribal areas to the minimum.

latitude, and the Nicobars to the south.

Some 400,000 Indian migrants make up

There are 325 islands in the Andamans

the rest of the population. Tourism and

and 24 in the Nicobars, but only 34

fishery are the only source of revenue

islands are permanently inhabited, the

generation in the islands. For the rest

rest being designated forest, biosphere

of the supplies, the islands are totally

and tribal reserves.

dependent on mainland India. Tourism is

The territory’s capital is the Andamanese

developing fast in the islands. Thousands

town of Port Blair. Northeast of Port Blair

of tourists, both foreigners and Indians

in Ritchie’s Archipelago lies Havelock

visit the islands each year. The year 2012

The island chain is the home of six aboriginal tribes, settled more than 60,000 years ago

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 25


saw 256,000 visitors, compared to 218,000 in 2011. The number of foreign tourists has grown from 13,692 in 2009 to 17,538 in 2012. With a vast Exclusive Economic Zone , the islands have a great potential in fishery , but this has not yet been achieved due to the absence of modernized fishing vessels and techniques. It is a common saying in the islands that fishes die a natural death as there is as yet no large scale fishing, but that was proved wrong when Greenpeace exposed that fact that foreign poachers especially from Burma are involved in poaching the marine wealth of the islands, which goes unnoticed. Climate change has affected the world and the Andaman & Nicobars are not an exception. Fortunately with 86% forest cover (reserved areas) there is not much visible change. There are various agencies and government institutions which have been conducting studies on different topics, observing the patterns of fruiting, sea level, agriculture, but there are no exclusive studies done on the topic of climate change. Mr. Rishikesh, Senior Scientific Officer, Department of Science & Technology, Andaman & Nicobar Administration, belongs to a family of migrants settled in the islands for five decades. He did his schooling in the islands and is well versed with the effects and changes in the climate of the islands. In an interview for the Blue Planet Log, Mr. Rishikesh explained that since 86% of the islands are under forest cover there is not much human interference and activities that can damage the environment. The islands can be considered as one of the biggest “carbon sinks” due to this vast forest cover. According to Mr. Rishikesh, there is no visible effect of global warming, nor a rise in the sea water level, although he accepts the fact that there are no

been highlighted by environment lovers and researchers. Here

relevant records to refer to. Out of his personal experience he

Mr. Rishikesh stressed that the plastic seen on the shoreline is

agrees that there has been a change in the rainfall pattern and

not generated solely by the islanders. Since the Nicobars are

temperature unlike earlier days when he was in school. He says

very close to an international shipping route, the waste being

that the temperature in some months goes beyond 34 degree

dumped by passing ships accumulates in the inhabited as well

Celsius, which was not observed earlier.

as uninhabited islands born by the ocean currents. The Indian

The islands do not have big industries that can contribute

Coast Guard, which is on continuous surveillance around the

to pollution and climate change except for the generating

islands, reports on such pollution, and cleaning operations have

plant that supplies electricity to all inhabited islands. But Mr.

been undertaken to clear it from time to time.

Rishikesh points out that this does not have much effect on

Mr Manish Chandi, a researcher with the Andaman & Nicobar

the environment as unleaded refined diesel is used to generate

Environment Team (ANET), who has been working in the islands

power. The only major factor contributing to pollution in the

since 1995 dealing with environment, ecology and tribal

islands is the increasing number of vehicles, especially in Port

issues, also agreed to be interviewed for the Blue Planet

Blair. Uncontrolled population growth in the islands is another

Log. He accepts that global warming has not left out the Andaman

factor that affects the environment, he said. As the population

& Nicobar Islands. From his experience, he has observed various

increases, human activities increases manifold, causing concern.

changes in the weather pattern, late flowering and migration of

Waste generation is also a cause of concern in the islands.

birds, which are indicators of climate change. Mr. Manish agrees

Although there are waste disposal units available in Port Blair,

that there is no base line data available to assess the direct

the remote inhabited areas do not have such systems in place.

impact of climate change in the islands. He says that it is in fact

Lack of awareness and techniques of proper waste disposal is

difficult to establish the rise in water level, the reason being

a concern in such places. He accepts the fact that no proper

the emergence and submergence of islands after the tsunami

study is done in this regard and therefore no proper data is

of 2004. That tsunami caused widespread devastation in the

available. Accumulation of plastic waste on the coasts has

Andaman & Nicobar Islands, and left 2,000 dead and 40,000

26 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


Rishikesh Sinha

people homeless. However, while newer

Regarding climate change, Mr Manish

settlers suffered the greatest casualties,

concluded that there is need for a

most of the aboriginal people survived

proper study on the state of the climate

because oral traditions passed down

and its effects on the Andaman and

from previous generations warned them

Nicobar Islands.

to seek shelter on high land from the large waves that follow a strong large earthquake.

Manish Chandi

There is yet no base line data available to assess the direct impact of climate change in the islands” Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 27


Emily Penn

TALKING TRASH Tips for dealing with waste at sea Ideas for provisioning ♦ Buying in bulk or wholesale means your products come with less, or even no packaging – it’s cheaper too! ♦ Where possible buy packaging that can be reused, e.g. a glass jar is better than single-use plastic. ♦ Remove all packaging before you leave port and dispose of it at a proper waste management facility

(removing cardboard also helps prevent cockroaches).

♦ Re-store foodstuffs (cereal, rice, pasta) into storage bins or containers. ♦ For more practical daily use, decant bulk-buy toiletries and cleaning products into smaller containers you use again and again. ♦ Where possible buy base ingredients and bake from scratch instead of buying prepared food like biscuits, pastries and some

main meals (saves on packaging, space on board and money).

When at sea ♦ Nothing goes overboard, except for organics over 12 miles from land. If you’ve got space to bring it on in the first place,

then you should have space to take it home.

♦ In your organics bin you can include all food scraps apart from cooking oil – the smaller the pieces the better. This can only go over the side when 12 miles or more from land. ♦ Reuse any glass/tin containers. These can be given away as presents; they are like GOLD in remote communities! ♦ Rinse any trash in salt water and compress as much as possible. ♦ To avoid smells through the boat store waste in an airtight compartment. ♦ Store used batteries in an airtight container and dispose of them properly ashore. Many supermarkets have a battery disposal box. ♦ Keep recyclables separate (any plastic marked with 1 or 2; glass & metal, paper and cardboard). Note: Plastic bags

and film are not recyclable.

More details on waste disposal at sea can be found in the Simplified Overview of the Discharge Provisions of the Revised MARPOL ANNEX V on www.imo.org.

28 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


When reaching land ♦ Research what waste management/ recycling system exists where you land. If inadequate facilities exist, keep waste on board. ♦ Even if locals offer to take your rubbish/garbage, you should check out where it’s going. For example, in the Maldives,

the word for ‘waste dump’ and ‘beach’ are identical!

♦ If there is landfill, check out what this actually means. If it’s a pile of trash, on unprotected ground on a low-lying coral atoll,

this is not adequate and is likely to be leaching toxins into the ocean.

♦ DO NOT dump rubbish in a street bin or burn it on the beach. Burning plastic on an open fire at much lower heat than in a proper

incinerator produces nasty dioxins, which are known carcinogens and hormone disrupters, and are no good for our bodies.

The bigger picture – plastic in our oceans Everything runs downhill to the ocean. Any plastic not properly disposed of is likely to end up in a gyre, a rotating system

of ocean currents found between 20 and 40 degrees north and south of the equator. There is currently 73.9 million pounds

(33,500 metric tons) of plastic spread throughout the world’s gyres.

Once floating in the ocean, plastic photodegrades when UV light breaks it down into smaller pieces, but plastic

DOES NOT biodegrade and goes back into the natural cycle.

Big pieces of plastic can cause harm to animals: it is stated that a million seabirds and 100,000 marine mammals

die each year from getting tangled up in or eating plastic. These include albatross, whales and seals.

Small bits of plastic get mistaken for food, and fish and other animals end up eating it. While not many incidences

have been recorded of fish actually dying from eating plastic, what is a greater concern is the chemical build up as

toxins have the potential to biomagnify as they move up the food chain.

Not all trash stays in a gyre. Islands are like natural nets. Ocean debris often washes up on shores placing greater strain

on island waste management systems (see report on the Nicobar Islands).

Emily Penn has a degree in Sustainable Architecture from Cambridge University. She was the first woman and youngest person to be

awarded the international Yachtmaster of the Year. She has set up a waste management system and environmental education program in

Tonga’s Ha’apai Islands. At present she is director of the Global Organisation Pangaea Explorations; taking scientists, filmmakers,

educators and journalists to the most remote parts of our planet. www.emilypenn.co.uk and www.panexplore.com

Plastic is a material designed to last forever, but we use it for products that are designed to be used once and thrown away”


A developing partnership with

JCOMMOPS

We need volunteer vessels to deploy autonomous instruments

I

t may be a bit of a mouthful,

of the scientific programs supported by

yachts

but what JCOMMOPS is all about

JCOMMOPS.

direction, barometric pressure, air and

is that of a platform support

“The participating sailors could help

sea temperature, all that needs to be

have

for

wind

speed

and

centre of the joint technical

us in many ways and they would

done is to install the free software and

commission (JCOMM) of the World

help themselves at the same time.

spend 5 minutes per day to compile a

Meteorological

(WMO)

Meteorological data could be transmitted

report. There is no obligation to do this.

and Intergovernmental Oceanographic

free of charge from the sailors to shore,

But if it is done, all those friends and

Commission (IOC) of UNESCO. This body of

the data would be quality-checked

family at home can not only follow your

technical experts provides international

immediately and then distributed to the

position, but also see on the internet

coordination

of

Organization

oceanographic and

worldwide meteorological community –

what the weather is like where the fleet

marine meteorological observing, data

again free of charge. That means that

is currently sailing.”

management and services, combining the

such data would then be used in weather

expertise, technology and capabilities of

forecasting. In some parts of the world

the meteorological and oceanographic

the Blue Planet Odyssey yachts will pass

communities.

through areas where almost no in-situ

We have been contacted by Martin Kramp,

data exist. The data will thus improve the

the recently appointed ship coordinator

potential to increase the quality of the

at JCOMMOPS, regarding the Blue Planet

weather bulletins significantly!”

Odyssey scientific program. Martin has

“How does it work? With a satellite

some precise ideas on how the Blue

communication system and a computer

Planet Odyssey could contribute to some

onboard, and the instruments the Martin Kramp

30 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


Another suggestion springs from discussions held with NOAA

exceptional datasets”.

on data gathering at sea. “We need volunteer vessels to deploy

Those successful results emboldened Martin to stress at

autonomous instruments in all ocean areas, and in particular

scientific congresses, meetings and conferences held in recent

where no commercial shipping routes transit”, Martin specified.

years why the sailing community should be encouraged to play

“These instruments could be the so-called Argo floats, which

an important role in data collection.

create salinity profiles from the surface to depths of up to

This is one idea Martin is keen to pursue with the Blue Planet

2000m. Or drifter buoys, which take measurements only at

Odyssey program. “Systems like the one we designed for racing

the surface”. The procedure and the size of the instruments

yachts could also be used on cruising yachts, and the resulting

are similar. Once at the appropriate position, the instrument is

data would be very valuable. Those of you who might be

deployed in the water and… that’s it. With a weight of around 20

interested in installing such a system, please let us know. We

kg, and the size of two diving tanks, most yachts should be able

are very enthusiastic about this developing partnership”, Martin

to find place to stow such a float.”

concluded.

Martin comes from a sailing background in both cruising and

Details of our cooperation with JCOMMOPS will be defined in

racing yachts. He first crossed the Atlantic in the nineties with

the upcoming months and a pilot project is planned within the

the ARC and so knows the character of ocean rallies. After

Atlantic Odyssey in November 2013. We are happy and proud to

university Martin decided to focus on a professional career

have such an important partner participating in the Blue Planet

in sailing. He became the project manager and skipper of

Odyssey scientific program.

Aldebaran, a modified OVNI 43, which was equipped with a science laboratory and communications studio, owned by the German marine research and broadcast company Aldebaran. Later on he became the manager of the OceanoScientific Programme, which developed fully automated scientific instruments to be used on racing yachts. “Only a few commercial and research vessels sail around Antarctica, whereas the round-the-world races sail there regularly, and data from that area is very important for scientists”, Martin explains. “The implementation was very difficult because of onboard conditions, with permanent shocks, humidity, limited energy and space, and all on a platform which often surfs at great speed or crashes through the waves. These IMOCA 60 carbon racing yachts, which participate in the Vendée Globe or Barcelona World Race, shorthanded and non-stop, have canting keels. Sailing upwind, these keels are often almost at the surface on the windward side, and due to hydrodynamic conditions cannot be used to suck water samples into the vessel. Additionally, water should always be in

The crew of Lady Amber prepares an Argo deployment. Floats come

motion in the system, to avoid bio-fouling during the long times

in different sizes, this one being one of the largest, with a weight of

at sea. The development of an efficient flow-through system for

around 25 kg. 3500 Argo floats have been deployed in the oceans

ocean sensors was a real challenge. “We managed to realize a

but in many areas the target density of 100% has not yet been

stable and bubble-free waterflow, which is crucial to obtaining

achieved. Around 800 new floats must be deployed every year to

good data quality”, Martin added. “Against all expectations, we

keep the array alive, at a float lifetime of approximately 4 to 5 years.

not only succeeded, we also managed to gather wide-spread

In some areas the Blue Planet Odyssey will sail through there is not

parameters from both ocean and atmosphere, thus creating

a single float is in the water.

Blue Planet Odyssey science projects Blue Planet Odyssey participants are invited to take part in the following scientific data gathering projects in partnership with scientists around the world: ♦ JCOMMOPS (the joint technical commission of the World Meteorological Organization and Intergovernmental Oceanographic

Commission of UNESCO). Participants will send back automated meteorological data and deploy Argo floats.

♦ NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Participants will deploy drifter buoys in areas not frequented by

commercial shipping to gather information on ocean currents, sea surface temperature, atmospheric pressure, winds and salinity.

♦ Observations of sea birds and other marine wildlife for Cornell University’s Ornithology eBird database. ♦ Logging of marine debris for NOAA’s marine debris program. ♦ The global marine plankton study run by Plymouth University, UK, gathering data using the Secchi disk and mobile phone app.


emergencies - a very important advantage in remote locations. HF radios can also Steven Bowden

be used to make calls to telephones

Do I really need a

anywhere in the world. This technique involves contacting a commercial shore

HF SSB Radio?

service provider for a fee. Many ham

E

communications. This refers to the ability

operators provide this service for free. The most popular reason for the proliferation of HF radio is digital

very day in my business I get

transmitted at an angle from one point

to send and receive digital data through

asked the same question: do I

to another. These waves then reflect or

a wireless email service provider such

really need a High Frequency

refract back to earth from layers of ionized

as low cost SailMail or the free ham

(HF) Single Sideband (SSB)

atoms in the atmosphere. This skip effect

service Winlink. This capability is based

radio for long range cruising? Why not

allows long range transmission beyond

on the SCS Pactor radio modem. A sender

just use a satellite phone? Why do most

the horizon and even globally. While

creates an email in a software program

long range cruisers use a 100 year old

propagation can be affected by various

called AirMail. This digital data is

radio technology? The answer is yes,

atmospheric conditions, HF radio remains

converted to analog by the modem, then

you do indeed need this cost effective,

a consistently reliable performer in a

transmitted by the HF radio to a shore

reliable and amazingly versatile method

surprising variety of conditions.

station. This station receives the analog

of long range communication.

Cruising is a community; HF radio

data, a modem converts it to digital and

Unlike marine Very High Frequency

connects you to this community in the

sends it to the email address anywhere in

(VHF) Frequency Modulation (FM) radio,

form of cruising nets, huge wireless

the world. Thousands of cruisers, racers,

which uses a short range, line of sight

‘party lines’ that allow you to share news

commercial and military users have made

signal, the reason HF radio works so

and information. Many cruisers develop

HF radio email a reliable standard for

well for long distance cruising is that

lifelong friendships based on ‘keeping in

over 14 years.

it uses the phenomenon of skywave

touch’ over HF radio. This ‘one to many’

A great way to enhance your HF radio

or ‘skip’ propagation. This refers to

communication method means that you

knowledge,

the characteristics of electromagnetic

can connect to the even larger worldwide

frequencies in your HF radio, is to obtain

radiation, we call radio waves, when

amateur or ham radio community in

an amateur or ham license. This consists

32 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013

and

access

restricted


of studying a pool of questions on subjects such as propagation, antennas, RF safety, and the radio regulations of the government granting the license. Licenses are recognized in most countries. In the US, a General Class license is required to access Winlink for worldwide free email service. No commercial messages are allowed on ham bands. Weather knowledge is a religion for long range cruising. In order to be self reliant forecasters, cruising sailors must have access to weather data that is broadcast worldwide by various government weather services for free. These broadcasts include weather fax (wxfax), navigational text (navtex), text (telex) and GRIdded Binary files (GRIB) as well as voice broadcasts. Weather reports or products are broadcast at regular intervals as long range HF radio waves and can be easily converted to digital data by demodulators, computer sound

The recent addition of the proven,

Lee

cards or radio modems and displayed as

worldwide Digital Selective Calling

Meteorologist for the National Weather

graphics and text by computer software.

(DSC) to HF radio has gone a long

Service, USCG approved STCW Instructor:

GRIBs are sent as free emails and are

way to enhance its safety. This system

“Not by a long shot. An essential method

based on computer models of current

allows you to broadcast an emergency

for gathering weather data worldwide.

and future wind conditions. Weather

digital signal by pushing a button. This

Don’t leave home without it!”

routers can also be accessed by HF radio.

message contains information about your

Many cruisers enjoy listening to their

vessel, the nature of your emergency

Eric

favorite news, sports and entertainment

and the Global Positioning System (GPS)

Electronics, North American

broadcasts on the British Broadcasting

coordinates. In addition, an ‘individual

distributor and supplier of electronics to

Corporation (BBC) and Voice of America

calling’ feature of DSC allows you to

the America’s Cup: “By all measures, the

(VOA) worldwide services as well as

signal other vessels if you have their

advantages of SSB are alive and well and

a proliferation of shortwave programs

Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI)

not going away any time soon.”

across the radio spectrum.

number. This number is broadcast on the

Safety is obviously the most important

global standard Automatic Information

Links:

reason for having a HF radio on your boat.

System (AIS) by all commercial vessels.

SailMail http://www.sailmail.com/

A standard for long range emergency

Unlike the DSC system on marine VHF

Winlink http://www.winlink.org/

communication, marine HF radio has a

FM radios, which has about a 20 nautical

ShipCom http://www.shipcom.com/

serious 150 watts of power to get your

mile range, HF DSC is long range and

SCS Pactor http://www.scs-ptc.com/

message out and someone is always

therefore can reach a larger number of

listening. Unlike the very important

commercial or recreational vessels from

Steven Bowden and Pamela House own

Emergency Position-Indicating Radio

remote locations.

SeaTech

Beacons (EPIRBs), voice communications

Despite the overwhelming evidence that

which sells navigation, communication and

over HF radio can access emergency

HF radio is a vital communications tool,

weather systems for marine computers.

medical services or request medical

some people think they are past their

SeaTech Systems is the official supplier of

assistance. Some emergencies aren’t life

prime. I asked a variety of marine industry

communications systems to the Blue Planet

threatening and a sailor can use the

experts, cruising authors and instructors

Odyssey.

HF radio to summon help from fellow

the question, “Is HF SSB Radio obsolete?”

cruisers or assistance from maritime

and here are their opinions:

authorities in nearby countries.

Chesneau,

Steinberg

Systems

former

owner

of

Senior

Farallon Pactor

(www.sea-tech.com)

Next issue: Is a Satellite Phone Right for Me?

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 33


Round the world rally yachts in Port Sudan

John Ellis

Managing

Sailing Events

M

the Red Sea and much of the fleet were reliant on getting fuel in Port Sudan. The baksheesh problem was not the real issue. There simply was no fuel. There was no fuel dock and due to general fuel

anaging global sailing

a toothbrush, razor and a polo shirt of

rationing, it was forbidden for foreigners

events on the ground

any colour. However, my local contact

to buy fuel in jerry cans from the petrol

creates a unique set of

bought me two splendid jallabiyahs (the

stations. So I got on the SSB radio and

challenges

often

traditional Sudanese robes), so when the

talked to the fleet to get the quantity of

require flexible or unorthodox solutions.

yachts arrived, I was sporting a scratchy

fuel required by each skipper. After 48

On a boat, duct tape and a hammer will

beard and was resplendent in my fine

hours of nocturnal negotiations with a

fix a surprising amount of problems. As

robes…. and most participants thought I

variety of agents, I managed to charter

event organisers, we also use a lot of

had gone quite mad.

a fuel tanker to deliver fuel directly to

metaphorical duct tape, occasionally the

Our stopover coincided with Ramadan

the dock. The boats started to arrive and

hammer and also liberal applications of

and the daytime temperature was often

we had a nervous few days wondering if

WD-40.

over 40 C, so the locals sensibly slept

the tanker would turn up. Thankfully it

during the day and got up at sunset. This

did and one by one the yachts came to

The Pink Shirt

meant I would get a knock on my hotel

the dock and got the fuel they required.

One of the most difficult challenges I

room door at 3 am to go to meetings.

The good news was that the fuel was

faced seemed very simple on the surface.

These meetings involved immigration,

clean and I also managed to get my pink

I needed to arrange fuel for the fleet. In

customs, port authority and the tourism

shirt laundered in time to fly to Safaga in

most places this is very straightforward,

office and would go on for hours, mostly

Egypt to greet the fleet once more.

but we were in Port Sudan. The fleet

in Arabic. Essentially, the meetings were

had left from Djibouti and I had flown

all about the amount of baksheesh that

Jimmy’s not at all portable SSB

ahead to Port Sudan via Jeddah in Saudi

could be extorted from me and part of

Jimmy is a man of great vision and has

Arabia. Unfortunately, my luggage never

the process was to eliminate the number

had some amazing ideas. Equipping the

arrived and all I had were the clothes I

of people involved in each transaction

rally support team with a SSB radio was

stood in, khaki pants and a very bright

and haggle relentlessly until an amount

definitely not one of them. In theory it was

pink polo shirt. A lot has been said about

was agreed.

great, but in reality far from it. In all our

my dubious choice of a pink shirt, which

But my focus had to be on getting fuel.

global events there is a twice daily roll call,

certainly stood out in the markets of

It had been a windless leg from Djibouti

run from one of the boats in the fleet. The

Port Sudan, where I searched in vain for

and there was still a long way to go up

boat taking the roll call would then send

that

34 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


on the positions and other news to the

at the same time

rally support team ashore. On the ground

for an immediate

we needed to be able to communicate

response. Within the

with the fleet and Jimmy invested in the

fleet, there is always

best SSB available at the time.

a myriad of experts

Our SSB radio was carried in an oversize

and a real sense of

briefcase, together with earth cables and

community

60 metres of copper antennae cable. It

wants to help their

weighed around 23 kilos and I lugged

fellow sailors. Over

this briefcase through countless airports

the years help over

as hand luggage desperately pretending

the SSB radio has

it was as light as a feather. This was

included emergency

clearly before 9/11 as I would imagine

bilge pump operation, electronic repairs,

Alfredo and his expensive cheese

today that my “portable” SSB would set

arranging a mid-ocean rendezvous to

Sometimes, it’s the little things that

off all the alarms.

transfer two young Italians to help

count. My good friend Alfredo was a

Once I arrived at the destination port, I

an elderly couple who that had lost their

connoisseur of cheese and had a very

had to make sure that I got a room on the

autopilot and were exhausted. I was

serious dilemma. He was about to

top floor of the hotel. Then I had to get

involved in an emergency on board

make landfall in Australia and had a

permission to go on the roof and set up

where

through

special cheese. For those not familiar

my 60 metres of antennae and somehow

on our SSB to shore based medical

with Australian quarantine restrictions,

find a way to drop a cable down through

advice to fix a dislocated shoulder

it is one of the most prohibitive in the

my hotel window to connect with the

On a more serious note, in the first round

world and the cheese was likely to be

SSB, which I would usually earth to the

the world rally in 1992, all the yachts

destroyed. He implored me to talk to the

pipes in the bathroom.

kept their SSB radios open 24 hours a

quarantine service to see if something

The problem was that it didn’t really

day, while going up the Red Sea. One

could be done. Much to my surprise, the

work. Sometimes we would be lucky in

of the yachts disregarded the sailing

quarantine service agreed that Alfredo

the lower frequencies when the boats

instructions and strayed too close to

could keep his cheese if it was placed in

were fairly close. We persevered for a

the coast of Eritrea and was confronted

a special box, sealed with tamper proof

long time, but I found the backup plan

by a gunboat. Every boat in the fleet

tape and placed in his fridge. As organiser

of using the SSB on a yacht that was

heard the blow by blow account over the

I was personally responsible for the

already in port a far simpler and effective

SSB of how the events unfolded as one

future export of the cheese. Alfredo had

solution.

of the crew members was transmitting

a cheese waiver document, which he

Fast forward 20 years and the SSB is

continuously. Shots were fired over their

had to present at every port between

still very much a part of rally life. Some

bow and they were forced to follow

Cairns and Darwin, where a quarantine

people have queried the relevance or

the gunboat into port. It was some

officer would visit the boat, inspect the

necessity of a SSB radio, when yacht

4 hours later that we heard the final

cheese box and add his or her comments

communications

so

transmission, indicating that they were in

to the document. On the passage up to

dramatically with email, sat phones etc.

port and being boarded. Within that four

Thursday Island he was buzzed by one of

But the SSB still plays a vital role. Apart

hour period the rally support team had

the border patrol planes. After confirming

from the roll calls, yachts would set

already made contact with officials at

his identity, the pilot responded, “Oh,

up radio skeds between 2, 3 or more

the highest level in the US and the UK, as

you’re the guy with the cheese.” Alfredo

yachts to analyse and discuss weather

it was a British boat with American and

and his, by now, very famous cheese

forecasts, which fishing lures were

British crew. Due to immediate pressure

eventually departed Darwin for Bali, and

bringing in the big ones or were there

from the US and UK governments, the

I imagine that cheese never tasted so

possibly any more banana recipes. During

yacht and her crew were not harmed

good. Alfredo had the cheese waiver form

the cruising periods, the radio skeds

and free to leave some 60 hours later.

framed as a tribute to the bureaucrats

continued as yachts arranged rendezvous

During those 60 hours, yachts in the fleet

that sometimes go the extra mile.

and discussed the best anchorages.

maintained a permanent listening watch

However, the most important aspect is

on SSB and called the seized yacht every

the safety element. With a twice daily roll

2 hours. Our very first joyous contact that

call, a yacht in distress knows that they

they were safe was over the SSB radio as

can reach out to every yacht in the fleet

they left port to rejoin the fleet.

have

improved

we

that

were

The travelling radio

patched

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 35


Pablo Aguilera’s goal is to operate at sea without the need to use fossil fuels for recharging the batteries

Paul Landino

Power for

Offshore

Shaun Dolk (left) with Pablo Aguilera and Dr Rick Lumpkin of NOAA at the wheel of Pablo’s Odyssea

L

Led lights The first recommendation was to replace all incandescent bulbs on board with their LED equivalent. This included not only the cabin

lights but masthead, running lights, etc. Switching to LED bulbs will reduce the lighting energy load by 75%. The additional benefits are a lower heat load and lower maintenance, as these bulbs last at least four times longer than the incandescent counterpart, making their replacement a rare occurrence.

H Cruising

How much energy is being consumed? In order to determine what types and sizes of renewable energy equipment (solar, wind or hydro generators) should be considered, we had

to examine how much electricity will be used on a daily basis. This was done by reviewing each piece of equipment, estimating the amount of hours of operation and multiplying it by the

The start of the Blue Planet Odyssey is a year away and many

current (amperage) that it draws while operating. An easy to use

sailors are beginning to outfit their vessels for the long voyage.

vessel energy usage estimator worksheet is available at: www.

Pablo Aguilera, sailing on Odyssea, has asked us at E Marine

emarinesystems.com . In the case of Odyssea, two operating

Systems, in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, to supply the necessary

scenarios were considered, one while under sail, and one while

equipment to ensure that the energy requirements during his

at anchor. The worksheet provided estimates 175 AH (amp-

voyage will be both economical and environmentally friendly.

hours) while at anchor and 402 AH while sailing.

Odyssea is a 40 foot Beneteau Oceanis built in 2011 and Pablo Aguilera’s goal is to operate at sea without the need to use fossil fuels for recharging the batteries while using his electronic equipment, including radar, autopilot, radios, running lights and other related cruising equipment. As the budget was limited,

W

What are the energy hogs? Sometimes the energy usage estimator will identify some major energy hogs and a decision needs to be taken whether it makes more sense

optimizing the right equipment for the owner’s requirements

to replace the equipment with newer, more energy-efficient

was critical.

models, or increase the charging capacity. The refrigeration system should be looked at first for energy consumption and

36 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


it is one area where maximum savings can be achieved if an

have an algorithm called MPPT (maximum power point tracking)

older or less efficient system is currently in place. Replacing an

which optimizes the amount of energy out of the solar panel into

old refrigeration system that is air cooled with one that is water

the battery given the conditions (amount of sun, shading, etc.).

cooled can reduce energy consumption by 50%, while having the

MPPT controllers are recommended because they will typically

additional benefit of a quieter cabin with less heat.

improve output by 25%. Having two charge controllers will be

Watermakers and air conditioning systems are also very high

more effective since each controller will manage the energy

energy consuming devices. Trying to accommodate these directly

from a single solar panel, and should there be a failure in one of

from renewable energy sources is very difficult to achieve. One

the controllers or panels only 50% of the system would be out of

solution is to run the engine (or generator) while making water.

operation. Two Blue Sky 2512iXHV charge controllers combined

As to the air conditioner, on Odyssea it has been agreed to only

with an IPN Pro Remote controller were selected. The advantage

use it when shore power is available.

of these products is that the IPN remote display allows each individual controller to be monitored. The dual 245 W solar

B

Battery selection

panels are estimated to produce over a normal sunny day 175

There are several battery choices available and

AH of energy. On less than sunny days, the energy production

these include flooded (lead acid), AGM (advanced

estimate will be significantly lower so other alternative energy

glass mat), lithium ion and other variations. Lead

sources had to be considered to meet the owner’s goal of not

acid batteries are not expensive but need maintenance and

running his engine to charge the batteries.

have a limited lifespan of 4 to 5 years. AGM batteries eliminate the need for maintenance, offer a higher amount of cycles (increased lifespan) and in some cases can be discharged deeper than the lead acid type. They cost considerably more but you might expect to see a lifespan of 5 to 7 years. The lithium ion

H

Hydrogenerator The increased demand for energy while sailing, combined with days with less sun, may result in the solar panels not producing enough

batteries are the latest type and offer a 75% reduction in weight

electricity to meet the power demand on Odyssea. After

compared to other types. They maintain constant voltage over

serious considerations of looking at wind power versus a hydro

the operating range and can be easily discharged to 80%. They

generator, the owner chose the latter. The model chosen is

charge very quickly (2 hours) and are more efficient through

Hydrogenerator, manufactured by Watt&Sea. It looks similar

their charge/discharge cycles. They will last for 15 years and are

to a small outboard motor mounted at the stern. It is lowered

a great solution on a cruising boat but come with a very high

into the water while under sail and removed when not in use.

price tag costing between five and seven times more than the

It produces 300 AH per 24 hours with a 280 mm propeller at

other types.

an average speed of 5.5 knots, with minimal drag effect due to

Based on Odyssea’s daily energy demand while sailing of

its hydrodynamic design. The Hydrogenerator comes complete

402 AH, available space and the owner’s preference for AGM

with a regulator that prevents overcharging the batteries. Three

batteries, the decision was taken to provided six GPL-4CT, 6V

different propellers are available depending on the boat’s

batteries rated at 220 AH and weighing 66 lbs /30 kg each.

design and sailing speeds anticipated.

When configured in a 12V bank the six batteries will provide a total of 660 AH. Designed for a maximum overnight discharge of 50%, the battery bank will provide 330 AH. The overnight power demand while under sail is estimated at 201 AH (50% of 402 AH).

A

Alternators Emergency backup power is another aspect that we had to consider. Odyssea has a 53 HP Yanmar diesel engine equipped with a standard

80A alternator. The owner decided to add a second high output

S

Solar system

alternator (120A) as a backup should the renewable energy

Odyssea has a large frame at the stern that can

systems fall short or if a system failure were to occur. The

accommodate two 245 Watt Kyocera KD245

alternators were combined through the use of a battery isolator

solar panels. The more solar that can be added

that accepts two alternator inputs to either battery banks (house

to the vessel, the better, especially if it is in an area that is

and starter).

free of shading. Redundancy at sea is always an important consideration. Having a backup system should one piece of equipment fail is important for both safety and comfort. In this case we recommended two solar panels connected to the battery bank through two, rather than a single, charge controller.

B

Battery monitor Monitoring your energy on board is an absolute requirement. It tells the amount of energy available in the battery bank allowing for

The charge controller regulates the energy from the solar panel

constant management of energy use. Such monitors are available

to the battery bank. The more sophisticated charge controllers

from manufacturers such as Xantex, Victron, etc.

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 37


Weekend Seminar on Long Distance Cruising At the Maritime Institute Conference Center, Linthicum, MD

A

s part of the preparations for the Blue Planet

Richard Hudson has sailed over 50,000 miles. Aboard his

Odyssey we are holding a two days seminar over the

current boat, the 50-foot steel staysail schooner Issuma, he

Columbus Day weekend at the Maritime Institute

sailed the Northwest Passage from west to east in 2011.

Conference Center at Linthicum, Maryland. We are

Doina Cornell is event coordinator for the Blue Planet Odyssey

very fortunate to be able to use the excellent facilities of this

and Atlantic Odyssey. She is a qualified teacher, writer and local

institution dedicated to the needs of the maritime community.

councillor and, having grown up on a boat, is well placed to have

We have put together a comprehensive syllabus to cover all

a real understanding of the dynamics of onboard family life.

essential aspects of interest to anyone planning a long voyage.

John Ellis is the Blue Planet Odyssey event director and has

Among our speakers we have several specialists in their field

managed several rallies, including four global events. He raced

and also sailors with many thousands of miles to their credit.

and delivered yachts for many years, before circumnavigating

Lee Chesneau is a professional meteorologist with experiences

the planet in the first round the world rally.

on land and sea (with over 70,000 miles under his keel), retired

An accomplished sailor and successful author, Jimmy Cornell

naval officer, accomplished weather forecaster, vessel router,

has sailed 200,000 miles in all oceans of the world. He has

author and lecturer.

completed three circumnavigations, including two voyages to

Dr Laura Sudarsky is an experienced offshore cruiser and racer,

Antarctica. Jimmy is now planning to transit the Northwest

and has been involved in many situations that required medical

Passage in a new boat as part of the Blue Planet Odyssey. In the

intervention at sea. Dr Sudarsky is a reconstructive plastic

last three decades he has organised 20 transatlantic rallies, five

surgeon in New York and Fort Lauderdale, who has taken part in

round the world rallies and one round the world race.

several medical missions abroad, most recently in Afghanistan. Steven Bowden is an expert on offshore communications and has worked closely with leading equipment manufacturers in developing new models of SSB radios and satellite telephony. Captain Alan Desa is a former airline pilot, an unlimited tonnage licensed Master Mariner, and educator at MITAGS, teaching navigation and radar. Beth Leonard and Evans Starzinger have completed two circumnavigations, one westabout in the tropics and one eastabout, passing under all of the Great Southern Capes. Beth is the author of The Voyager’s Handbook, Director of Technical Services at Boat U.S. and editor of Seaworthy Magazine. Evans has written technical articles on all aspects of offshore sailing for Cruising World, Practical Sailor, Yachting Monthly, and Boat U.S. Magazine.

How to join the seminar The seminar is open to anyone interested, not just participants in the Blue Planet Odyssey. The cost is $295 per person or $495 for couples, and includes all seminar expenses, live demonstrations, lunch, refreshments, also shuttle service from Baltimore International Airport. Blue Planet Odyssey participants who have paid their registration fee are entitled to one free place. If more crew wish to attend, or anyone who has not yet paid the registration fee, the seminar fee will be deducted from the registration or crew fee when they are paid. Hotel type accommodation is available at the conference center www.ccmit.org For more information send an email to

38 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013

seminar@cornellsailing.com


Weekend Seminar on Long Distance Cruising

Seminar Program Day One: Sunday October 13 0800-0845 Registration 0845-0900

Welcome and introduction

0900-0930 Essential aspects of voyage preparation

Jimmy Cornell Jimmy Cornell

0930-0945

Coffee break

0945-1100

Weather forecasts and weather routing: what every sailor

should know about weather for voyage and passage planning

Lee Chesneau

1100-1200

Practical aspects of long distance cruising

Jimmy Cornell

1200-1230

Lunch

1230-1330

Marine weather and self-reliance concepts,

prevailing winds and currents, effects of climate change

Lee Chesneau

1330-1500

Medical emergencies

Dr Laura Sudarski

1500-1515

Coffee break

1515-1600 Anchoring techniques Evans Starzinger 1600-1700

Sailing couples

Beth Leonard

1700-1730

Cruising as a family

Doina Cornell

1730-1830

Long distance cruising for women: ask your questions.

Closed session for women only.

Moderated by Beth Leonard, Doina Cornell and Laura Sudarski.

1730-1830 The men have their say: open session on tips and gadgets.

Moderated by Jimmy Cornell, Evans Starzinger and John Ellis

1830-1900

Cocktails

1900-2030

Dinner

2030-2130

Highlights of a sailing life

Jimmy and Doina Cornell

Day Two: Monday October 14 0800-0930

Offshore communications + navigation & planning apps

0930-1030

View from the bridge simulation

1030-1200

Planning a voyage to the Caribbean, to Europe, and back‌

and all the way around the world

1200-1230

Lunch

1230-1330

High latitude sailing and Northwest Passage transit Richard Hudson

1330-1430

Offshore routines

1430-1515

Liferaft inflation and boarding pool demonstration

1515-1530

Coffee break

1530-1630

Sailing in a rally or on your own

1630-1700 AIS and collision avoidance 1700-1730 Questions and answers on long distance cruising 1730 End of program 1730-1830

Blue Planet Odyssey briefing

Steven Bowden

Jimmy Cornell

Jimmy Cornell

John Ellis & Jimmy Cornell Captain Alan Desa


Blue Planet

Odyssey

Spreads The Word

I

n the first issue of the Blue Planet Log I wrote about our educational program, and how Blue Planet Odyssey participants would set up links with local schools – so children and young people around the world would be

children around the world Are able to follow the event and communicate with schools in other countries

H

ello all!! WOW!! What a GREAT time we had at Lake Norman Yacht Club’s Sailing Camp! I think everyone there is just as excited as I am about the Blue Planet

able to follow the event, communicate with schools in other

Odyssey!

countries, and become aware of the real state of our planet, and

Instead of just a quick presentation, I decided to spend the entire

above all our oceans, through the eyes of sailors and islanders

day with them. So, I was able to talk with many of the various

in remote regions.

fleets one-on-one, as well as give my presentation at the end

I am very pleased that since I wrote those words, many

of the day. The kids and adults are thrilled to hear of the event,

participants have begun to build up their links with schools and

and all of them are so very excited to follow our progress as

children in the countries where they are based. However, some

we voyage. They will be supporting us for sure, and the LNYC

have asked me, how do I start? Here you can read about one

Sailing Camp is excited to be the very first classroom to commit

way to do it, which will hopefully inspire you, from Benjamin

to participate in our educational voyage and online exchanges!

Riddle, sailing on Whirlwind with his partner Joseph Richardson.

Personally, I began at Lake Norman Yacht Club’s Sailing Camp at

Benjamin has written about his links with Lake Norman Yacht

the age of 6 and eventually ended up teaching there and racing

Club, based in Cornelius, North Carolina, USA, and we’ve included

throughout my younger years. It holds a very special place in my

some comments from the children who will be following

heart... there are so many wonderful families there and we all

Benjamin and Joseph’s exploits round the world.

love being on the water!

If that wasn’t inspiration enough, we’ve also included on these

Benjamin Riddle

pages a poem written by Joseph, and to round off our ‘literary corner’, a prize-winning speech from my son Dan.

What I think about the Blue Planet Odyssey is that the people Doina Cornell

sailing are either insanely skilled, they want to help, or they just want to test their limit. When I heard my Mom’s friends Benjamin & Joseph are going, I thought they were the third type. After they told us what they are really doing, I knew they were the second type. Good luck! Colin Sherry (10) I think Blue Planet Odyssey is really cool. Number one, because my Mom’s best friend is sailing around the world. Number two because the fleet is going to be helping people on the way. And they said they would be taking us with them on the Blue Planet Odyssey... How cool is that?? Josie Sherry (8) Benjamin sailing at age six


Joseph Richardson

Dan Cornell

Our Blue Planet Poem

The world would be

Our Earth spins in her orbit without our thought Each one of us her caretakers Believe it or not

a better place if ...

E

veryone had an equal share of food and water. If no one was to die of not having enough to eat or drink, when other people do. More welling equipment must be bought to get clean water, for those who

have none. For nobody to be left out in the corner, with no hope

Here On Earth

to have their share. For people to treat others as they would

It’s where we Live

like to be treated, not ruining their lives every day. For people to

We continually ask her to

understand their actions to see what they’re doing wrong. If this

Give, Give, Give

was to be, to treat others respectfully, would we not live our lives more happily? Same for wars, and people not understanding

We’ve taken without thought

other people’s thinking and that what they think is wrong.

Of where she is going

Everybody should learn and teach themselves to respect each

All the while our children are growing & growing

other’s beliefs as our own.

What Earth will they see?

Africa, a scarred continent, is tackling problems every moment!

What kind of world will it be?

One of which is the diseases held there. Thousands of young, innocent children who could be living their lives, die everyday,

What legacy will our generation leave?

just due to there being so many horrid diseases out there. We

Is it one our children will find hard to conceive?

can stop that though, and yet some of us just sit back and don’t

That we did not care for our home Earth as we should

bother. Well I ask those people, how would they feel, in a hospital

Even though we had the knowledge and knowing we could

full of dying young children calling for their need? How would they react then? More mosquito nets and vaccines must be

Our responsibility is Now

bought and now!!

We already know How

Not just treating other people badly, we are treating our planet

To make the changes that we must

badly. Global warming is getting worse and worse, with all the

Earth’s fate lies in each of our hands

creation of pollution by our cars. Not to mention all the other

This you can trust

terrible causes. We need to find a sustainable energy now to fuel our energy safely.

The answers lie in You and Me

One other problem, towards animals, is that we continue to kill,

Sustainability holds the key

and capture them, even when we know it’s wrong. People must understand their actions now! I say we end poaching, and keep

We can no longer be so careless and

up the work of protecting endangered species.

Take, Take, Take

No more waiting. No more discussing of wars to be done. We

For if we do

carry this out now, or never!

The future of our children, plants, animals and all life We will forsake

Dan wrote this for a competition run by his class teacher and performed in front of the whole school – the children chose Dan’s

The time is Now I know you can feel it in your Heart The time is Now To do your Part Our Earth spins in her orbit without our thought Each one of us her caretakers Believe it or not The time is Now I know you can feel it in your Heart The time is Now To do your Part

speech as the winner.


Dick Bower in front of son Billy and his friend Jenny

Lou and Trish Reynolds

News from

the BPO Explorers Blue Planet Odyssey Participants Terry and Dena Singh LOU AND TRISH REYNOLDS have a

Also joining in Panama will be TERRY

We are looking forward to everything

combined 30 years of sailing experience

AND DENA SINGH, who plan to leave

the Odyssey has in store for each of us,

in the Pacific Northwest. They left Seattle

San Diego in the fall of 2014. Their

especially creating new friendships with

in October 2012 to make The Big Left

Amel Super Maramu Libby is their third

everyone involved in the BPO.”

Turn. They are currently living aboard

cruising sailboat and they have already

FarAway in Ensenada, Mexico. In October

logged many miles sailing down the

One of the five yachts taking the Northern

2013 they will explore more of Mexico

west coast of North America and Mexico

Route from London is DICK BOWER’s

and Central America and will meet

before returning to their homeport San

Gusto, pictured here on Penobscot Bay

up with the Blue Planet Odyssey in

Diego.

in Maine.

“We are now busy getting Libby and our

“Here I am with my son Billy and his friend

lives ready for a life away from the dock. We

Jenny. They’ve graduated from medical

“Our cruising plans originally included

are wrapping up work and everything else

school so I am free to retire from orthopedic

the South Pacific, Southeast Asia and the

that goes with the transition from North

surgery and join the Blue Planet Odyssey.

Mediterranean. When we read about the

American culture into the cruising world.

I am looking forward to it very much, and

Blue Planet Odyssey and the purpose of

We are lining up 1-2 schools now for the

also finding an adventurous lady who

the event it sounded like a perfect fit. The

education portion of our commitment and

would like to come along.”

thought of being able to give something

are so excited to see what this endeavor

back to those in need by sharing our skills

will bring to the lives of so many children

Starting

and talents would just enhance our cruising

all over the world.

RICHARD LEDNICKY AND ANDREA

experience that much more. Trish is a

On the side, we are also studying how to

VAN HOVEN on their Beneteau First 47

nurse practitioner and I am a data/systems

produce a documentary of this trip as we

Imagine. They both have been sailing for

engineer and with our combined skills we

are deeply into photography and both of us

over 40 years on the Eastern Seaboard

hope to contribute to the communities we

come from the video technology industry

and in the Caribbean and have a wide

visit.”

(a.k.a. cable television). This kind of project

range of qualifications, both academic

is a culmination of our lives and careers.

and nautical.

September 2014 on the west side of the Panama Canal.

42 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013

from

New

York

will

be


Andrea van Hoven and Richard Lednicky

Philip Goymour

William Hickson, Tim Liveright, Zeke Holland

“Currently, we live and work at Shelburne

sailing experience into honing the yacht

PHIL GOYMOUR is still undecided

Farms in Vermont. Shelburne Farms is a

to the sharpest edge possible.

where he will join the Blue Planet

non-profit education organization whose

Odyssey. He has sailed some 6000 miles

mission is to cultivate a conservation ethic

“A magical bit of synchrony brought us

for a sustainable future. The campus is

together and culminated in our registering

a 1,400-acre working farm and National

for the BPO. Remarkable were the facts that

“I used to be an electronic engineer. I

Historic Landmark. We care about the

we had never met, that we lived in different

sold my business in 1998 and emigrated

sustainability and quality of life on earth

parts of the US, had a fascination for the

with my wife and son from the UK to

and about young people having hope for

same catamaran model (the Chris White

Sydney. The business designed and built

the future.

designed Atlantic 42), had circumnavigation

offshore survey instruments to determine

We were planning to move to our boat

on our bucket lists and… were looking for

the nature of sea-bed, depth of pipe-

in May of 2014 to sail around the world.

partners to share these nautical interests.

lines and so on. So I spent much time

After reading about Blue Planet Odyssey,

I guess we could say the BPO was the

offshore during my business life, but only

we realized what a perfect fit it was for

glue, the icing on the cake that made our

learnt to sail in 2000. My electronic skills

our values.

partnership finally happen. Our additional

have long since expired, but I still love

We will also involve our local schools

life long commitment to progressive social

practical tasks, fixing & building anything.

which encompass one high school and four

and environmental causes has found the

Especially close to my heart will be to

elementary and four middle schools. We

perfect compliment to our sailing passion.

seek the opportunity to enhance the life of

are also very excited about collecting the

We are almost beside ourselves knowing

children in some small way, by improving

scientific data and helping the communities

that we will have the opportunity of

medical or educational facilities or simply

we visit in whatever capacity needed.”

contributing to such a worthwhile mission,

by improving home infrastructure such as

which may just shake a few folks loose from

sanitation or irrigation. I hope to be able

since he purchased Pearl Fisher in 2006.

LIVERIGHT

their complacent non-activist moorings. In

to bring enthusiasm, energy, suggestions,

AND ZEKE HOLLAND formed a boat

this respect we have begun to draft plans

basic IT skills and shovel-wielding.”

partnership to purchase No Regrets and

for alerting our communities of the BPO

plan to merge their combined 75 years of

and our involvement.”

BILL

HICKSON,

TIM

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 43


Tim and Ceci King

Manuela Bachmann and Dani Ammann

Laurey & Bill Stanley

TIM AND CECI KING will be sailing

“We plan to spend our retirement cruising

Globetrotters some day, but we never

Ransom, their 39 year old Hinckley 49’

as long as we can and then a little more.

thought it would happen that soon. We

along the Southern Route starting from

We have cruised the U.S east coast from Key

like the idea of visiting fascinating places

Norfolk, Virginia and ending up who

West to Long Island Sound, with the majority

and marvel about the amazing diversity

knows where?

of our experience in the Chesapeake Bay.

of nature, meeting foreign cultures and

Circumnavigation had been a thought, but

receiving an insight in their everyday life.

“This is the opportunity of a lifetime that

not a serious one until we heard about the

Although we are toddlers in terms of blue

many sailors will never have a chance at.

Blue Planet Odyssey. What an opportunity

water sailing, we are investing a lot of

Aside from the adventure of it all, raising

and for such a meaningful cause! We hope

time and effort in our nautical education

awareness for how disrespectfully we are

to bring our passion and some useful skills

to gather the best possible preparation

treating our oceans (among other natural

to this event. We are so looking forward to

for this event. We will have a team of

assets) is important to us. Mother Nature

this once-in-a-lifetime experience.”

professionals assisting us on behalf of

is not pleased. We can’t wait to get started.

Segel Sport Resch based in South Germany.

Thankfully, we have a year to get ourselves

MANUELA

and Ransom ready.

DANIEL AMMAN will take on the

charge of Frangimaran.

P.S. As the Scottish are fond of saying, “Be

Blue Planet Odyssey challenge with their

Since Frangimaran is not exactly a single-

happy while you are living, for you are a

sailing vessel Frangimaran, a Lagoon 52,

handed sailing boat, we would like to invite

long time dead.”

which is currently under construction in

interested sailors and volunteers to join us

Bordeaux.

on their favorite passages and give them

BACHMANN

AND

Starting in Miami will be BILL AND

Axel Silgmann will be the first skipper in

the chance to enjoy the family experience

LAUREY STANLEY on Ursa Major. Bill

“Both of us were very excited when we first

of the Blue Planet Odyssey in exchange for

started cruising at the age of 7 with a

stumbled across the Blue Planet Odyssey

a helping hand.”

boat he built himself out of an old door

project. The unique combination of sailing

and a few scraps of lumber, while Laurey

the seven seas and sailing for a higher

grew up in Iowa and did not see the

purpose is a very exciting endeavor. Both

ocean until she was in college.

of us always felt the desire to become

44 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


Blue Planet Odyssey Confirmed Participants List TBA = to be announced

Boat Name

Design/LOA

Owner

Country

Route

Start

1

Aventura IV

Exploration 45

Jimmy Cornell

GBR

Northern

London

2

FarAway

Pearson 367

Lou & Trish Reynolds

USA

Southern

Panama

3

Festina Lente

Discovery 55

Nick Pochin

GBR

Northern

London

4

Gemeaux

Fountain-Pajot Helia 44

Eric & Patricia Frangeul

FRA

Southern

Canary Islands

5

Gusto

Custom Chuck Paine 44 Dick Bower

USA

Northern

London

6

Imagine

Beneteau First 47

Richard Lednicky & Andrea Van Hoven

USA

Southern

New York

7

Khujada 2

Ovni 395

Julian & Albane Smart

GBR

Southern

London

8

Libby

Super Maramu 53

Terry & Dena Singh

USA

Southern

Miami

9

Living For Wind

Leopard 48

Octaaf & Alma Bulterys

RSA

Southern

Cape Town

10

No Regrets

Atlantic 42

Tim Liveright / Zeke Holland / William Hickson

USA

Southern

Newport

11

Odyssea

Beneteau Oceanis 40

Pablo Aguilera

USA

Southern

Miami

12

Marco Polo

Outremer 46

Jan Michel Pinto da Silva

BRA

Southern

TBA

13

Pearl Fisher

Oyster

Philip Goymour

AUS

Southern

TBA

14

Ransom

Hinckley 49

Tim & Ceci King

USA

Southern

Norfolk

15

Strangetrader

Hallberg Rassy 46

Robert & Andrea Schwamberg

AUS

Southern

Spain

16

Suilven

Oyster 47

John & Linda Andrews

GBR

Northern

Inverness

17

Teoula

Outremer 45

Udo & Regin Bönicke

SUI

Southern

London

18

Ursa Major

Kadey Krogen 54

Bill & Laurey Stanley

USA

Southern

Miami

19

Whirlwind

German Frers 50

Benjamin Riddle & Joseph Richardson

USA

Southern

Miami

20

TBA

Lagoon 45

Paul Hart

USA

Southern

Miami

21

TBA

Outremer 49

Francis Compton

USA

Southern

Miami

22

Frangimaran

Lagoon 52

Dani Ammann & Manuela Bachmann

SUI

Southern

London

23

TBA

Exploration 45

Lou & Zetty Morgan

USA

Northern

London

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 45


Wendy, Dennis, Tatum & Holden on Felina

News from The

Atlantic

Argonauts

Wendy, Dennis, Tatum & Holden “There are four of us in our family, at least

reasons. We are also “testing” to see if we

cols. Pour l’instant c’est la découverte

as long as we can keep our kids from

might join the Blue Planet Odyssey.

du bateau et de son infini bricolage

adopting a stray pet along the way (so far

We are looking forward to meeting everyone

pour la préparation à ce voyage. Puis,

so good). We are a homeschooling family

in the Canaries, but are going to enjoy our

nous l’espérons, une ouverture sur l’autre

and figured we can homeschool anywhere,

summer here in the Med along the way.”

et son cadre de vie. Alors quand nous avons

so why not as we travel. We sold our home,

découvert

l’Atlantic

Odyssée

cars, and everything that didn’t fit on the

Dennis Schmidt, Wendy Demeter,

nous nous sommes sentis rejoints dans

airplane as luggage, and bought a boat.

Tatum, and Holden from the United

nos espérances: traverser l’Atlantic en

We began our adventure a year ago in July

States are currently cruising in the

sécurité avec l’accompagnement de vrais

when we arrived in France and saw for the

Mediterranean on their Lagoon 450

marins (ce que nous espérons devenir),

first time what was to be our new home

catamaran Felina and will take the start

et donner un sens supplémentaire à

for the foreseeable future, Felina. We have

in La Palma.

notre projet en y associant un voyage à thème: observation de la nature et son

been enjoying an extended shake down cruise for both boat and family starting in La Rochelle, France and sailing as far east

The Courty Familiy

interaction avec l’homme.” “For the last three years we have been

“Depuis 3 ans nous préparons notre

getting ready to set off on our family

When we first heard about the Atlantic

voyage en famille. Nous vivons dans

voyage. We live up in the High Alps in the

Odyssey, it was a tough decision, not on

les hautes alpes : la plus haute ville

highest town in Europe, in a region that

whether to join or not, but which crossing

d’Europe, dans une région que certains

some have described as the ‘ante-chamber

to join. We opted for the later one in

qualifient même d’anti chambre du

of paradise’, and our backyard is the Écrins

January.

paradis, et notre terrain de jeu est le

National Park. So why on earth leave ?

Our purpose for joining the Atlantic Odyssey

parc national des écrins. Alors pourquoi

Perhaps in order to pursue further this

is varied. Meeting people on a similar route,

partir? Peut être pour pouvoir poursuivre

communion with nature and to show our

benefiting from the experience of others,

cette communion avec la nature et

young children what exists on the other

and the mental ease of knowing there are

emmener nos plus jeunes enfants voir

side of the mountain passes.

others over the horizon, are a few of the

ce qu’y existe de l’autre coté de nos

At the moment we are busy getting to know

as Turkey.

46 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


The Courty family

the boat and all the endless preparations

see many different countries. I will sail in

“Je suis contente de partir et d’avoir

that have to be done for the voyage.

the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean.

la possibilité de vivre une expérience

Then, we hope, a quite different way of

I will have a little cabin of my own. I am

peu commune. Je vais aller voir avec

life will open for us. When we discovered

sad to be leaving Briançon, and my friends

un moyen de transport économique et

the Atlantic Odyssey we felt all our hopes

and family that are staying behind. I am in

original des pays que je ne connais que

had come true: to cross the Atlantic safely,

a hurry to go.”

dans des livres d’école. Je vais quitter mes

in the company of real sailors, which we

Eloi (6)

do hope to become ourselves, and to give

montagnes et et je ne vais plus voir mes amis et ma famille mais j’aurais le plaisir

our enterprise an extra dimension by

“Je suis très heureuse de faire ce voyage

d’être en contact avec eux par notre blog

associating a voyage with the theme of

extraordinaire où je pourrais faire de la

<< les courty sont sur un bateau >> et de

observing nature and its interaction with

plongée, découvrir plein de choses et

leurs faire partager mes experiences.”

man.”

autres. Avec mon papa, ma maman, ma

“I am happy to be leaving and to have the

grande sœur et mon petit frère j’ai hâte

chance to have an experience out of the

Stephane and Jo-Aline Courty will be

de partir. Je suis un peu triste de quitter

ordinary. I will get to see countries that I

sailing on their Jeanneau Trinidad 48 Le

ma terre habituelle et mes amis, mais

only know about from school books, by an

Graal with their three children who have

je me dis que là bas ce sera beau et

economical and original mode of transport.

all something to say:

fantastique. Où j’irais, ce sera mon destin.”

I will leave my mountains behind and I

“I am really happy to be able to make this

won’t see my friends and family but I’m

“Je vais aller faire le tour du monde. Je

extraordinary voyage where I will be able to

glad I will be able to keep in contact with

vais voir plusieurs pays. Je vais naviguer

go diving, and will discover all sorts of

them via our blog ‘les courty sont sur un

dans la méditerranée et l’océan Atlantic.

different things. With my dad, my mum, my

bateau’ and to share with them all my

Je vais avoir une petite cabine à moi tout

big sister and little brother I can’t wait until

experiences.”

seul. Je suis triste de partir de Briançon,

we leave. I am a bit sad to be leaving the

de quitter mes amis et ma famille qui

place I know well, and my friends, but I tell

reste là. J’ai hâte de partir.”

myself that it will be beautiful and fantastic.

“I am going to sail around the world. I will

Where I will go, that will be my destiny.”

Anne-Suzie (13)

Oriane (11) Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 47


Marco Polo crew

The Beck family

Anne & Jan Michel

Jan Michel Pinto da Silva and Anne

figured that since we’d finally found the

Daldegan will be starting from Lanzarote

courage to play our hand that Moxie suited

“Encore difficile à croire que nous

on their Outremer 55 catamaran Marco

quite well.”

sommes à 20 jours du début de notre

Polo. Jan Michel, a Brazilian based in

rêve, une vie calme paisible près de la

Paris, is also planning to continue with

After lots of RYA training, boat preparation

nature sur notre bateau, loin du rythme

the Blue Planet Odyssey.

and bashing around the Solent we sailed

effréné des grandes villes. Nous partons

off from the UK in July 2010. Our first year

avec le rallye Atlantique Odyssey par ce

took us to the Algarve, there were many ups

que nous avons le sentiment que l’esprit

and downs and a steep learning curve, from

de ce rallye correspond à nos valeurs, solidarité, convivialité, entraide oú des

The Beck Family

there to the Balearics where we spent two years. Then we decided to go all in, spend

passionnés de voile peuvent se retrouver

“Blue water sailing has appealed to me

our house money and buy a nice big comfy

et vivre leur rêve.”

since I was a small boy; growing up in New

catamaran. Xmas 2012 we took Moxie back

“It is still so hard to believe that we are

Zealand my fondest memories are of time

to the Algarve and moved over to our new

less than three weeks away from the start

spent in boats. My grandfather was a keen

boat. We are now in the Aeolian Islands just

of our dream, a calm and peaceful life close

sailor and built a yacht which he raced in

off Sicily and heading to Greece, then will

to nature on our boat, far from a frenetic

the Auckland to Suva race. I guess this is

be high tailing out to the Canaries to join

urban lifestyle. We are setting off with the

where the seed was planted.

the Atlantic Odyssey.

Atlantic Odyssey because we feel that the

We left New Zealand in 1998 and moved

We keep a blog http://blog.mailasail.com/

spirit of this rally really does correspond

to London, but I was already telling people

moxie”

to our values of solidarity, conviviality and

that we’d be sailing home but imagined it

support where those who are passionate

would be as crew on someone else’s boat.

Mike and Denise Beck will start from La

about sailing can meet and together live

After many years in the UK and now with

Palma in their Fontaine Pajot catamaran

the sailing dream.”

a couple of kids we’d had enough of city

Moxie II.

life and purchased our first ever yacht, a Beneteau 473 which we named Moxie. Moxie roughly translates as gumption, we 48 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013


The Deis family

Uli Hoffmann on the way to Cuxhaven

day by day, discovering other shores and

Uli Hoffmann

The Deis Family

“The Atlantic Odyssey is part of a one year

“Surgi de nos rêves, évincé de ses doutes

break with those city routines which are so

sabbatical that I’m taking from August this

et motivé par l’idée d’une expérience

comfortable but so oppressive… and above

year. The intention is to do the Atlantic

unique avec nos enfants, le projet de

all to realise all this with Oceïs. Bought just

circuit and to be back in Northern Europe

vivre au plus près d’eux, de découvrir

a year ago, she is an Oceanis 45 and our

about the end of June next year. We will do

d’autres rivages et d’autres civilisations,

newest family member. We have the utmost

the Atlantic Odyssey with a crew of three.

d’apprendre à s’adapter, à rompre avec les

confidence in her, and for the last few

This team has sailed together since our time

habitudes citadines à la fois confortables

months, along the western coasts of France,

at university. Our experience is sailing trips

et oppressantes, et surtout se retrouver,

we have got to know her better.

in the Baltic and several Channel crossings,

se concrétise avec Oceïs. Acquis, il y a

For us the first important stage of this

the trips lasting typically a fortnight.

un an, c’est un OCEANIS 45 : le nouveau

journey will be the Atlantic crossing. We are

I started sailing at age 13 on dinghies,

membre de la famille. On a confiance et,

all taking part, because young and old, we

mostly on lakes and later also on chartered

depuis plusieurs mois, sur les cotes ouest

know that not everyone can do it and we

boats and club boats. My longest offshore

de la France, on apprend à se connaître.

would like to be a part of the clan of ‘those

experience up to now was a trip from

Etape importante, la première de ce

who have done it’. As a family with children

the Azores to Kinsale and a journey from

périple, la traversée de l’Atlantique.

on board, it seemed sensible for us to be

Madeira to Cadiz.

Nous sommes tous partants, car petits

in an organised event, more fun, because

I like the concept of the Atlantic Odyssey to

et grands savons bien que cela n’est pas

meeting others is important too.

do the crossing in an organised form, that

accessible à tout le monde et souhaitons

The timing of the Atlantic Odyssey, and

gives support on the one hand and is much

faire partie du clan de « ceux qui l’on

the objectives of this new transatlantic

fun as we are part of a bigger community.”

fait ». Avec des enfants à bord, il nous

rally, the safety aspect and a return to the

a semblé plus prudents d’être encadrés

amateur spirit, persuaded us to take part.

Uli Hoffmann is sailing his Hanse 345

par une organisation, plus sympa car les

We are truly impatient to be there!”

Muskat, starting in Lanzarote.

rencontres sont importes aussi.

other civilisations, to learn to adapt, to

Le timing de « l’Atlantic Odyssey »

Françoise and Cédric Deis, with their

et les objectifs de ce nouveau rallye

children Loris (15), Nolan (11) and

transatlantique, sécurité et plaisir pour

Ysaure (4) will take the start in Lanzarote

des amateurs, nous ont convaincus de

on their Oceanis 45 Oceïs.

participer. On a vraiment hâte d’y être !!!!” “Emerging from our dreams, all our doubts have been set aside, and we are motivated by the idea of a unique experience to share with our children, to live with them

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 49


Atlantic Odyssey List of Entries TBA = to be announced Boat Name

Design/LOA

Owner

Country

Route

Albenuz

Jeanneau Sun Liberty 34

Jean Pierre & Edith Groscolas

FRA

TBA

2

Antaviana

Jeanneau Sun Liberty 44i

Javier Visiers

ESP

Lanzarote-Martinique

3

Atout Coeur

Lagoon 380

Bernard & Marie Laurence Fachon

FRA

La Palma-Grenada

4

Drina

Jade 48

Michael Thurston

AUS

Lanzarote-Martinique

5

Duck

Beneteau Oceanis 46

Gyorgy Varnai

HUN

Lanzarote-Martinique

6

Felina

Lagoon 450

Dennis Schmidt & Wendy Demeter

USA

TBA

7

Gemm

Swan 55

Vincenzo Visenzi

ITA

Lanzarote-Martinique

8

Pénélope

Feeling 346

Denis Mangeot

FRA

La Palma-Grenada

9

HOA

Joubert Loncours 62

Jacqueline Cadalen & Yannick Perriot

BEL

TBA

10

Le Graal

Jeanneau Trinidad 48

Stéphane & Jo-Aline Courty

FRA

Lanzarote-Martinique

11

Marco Polo

Outremer 55

Jan Michel Pinto da Silva & Anne Daldegan

FRA

Lanzarote-Martinique

12

Moxie II

Fontaine Pajot

Michael & Denise Beck

GBR

La Palma-Grenada

13

Muskat

Hanse 345

Ulrich Hoffmann

GER

Lanzarote-Martinique

14

Noix de Coco

Fountaine Pajot Lipari 41

Daniel Lallemand & Florence Soulerin

FRA

La Palma-Grenada

15

Oceïs

Beneteau Oceanis 45

Cedric & Françoise Deis

FRA

Lanzarote-Martinique

16

Okamaugo

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 36

Aurelien & Aurelie Tricault

FRA

TBA

17

Sudoeste

Beneteau First 44.7

Jonathan & Kerry Ash

NZL

Lanzarote-Martinique

18

Tide Head

Outbound 46

Dirk de Haan & Susan Barclay

USA

La Palma-Grenada

19

Twixter

Lagoon 440

Catherine & Robert Henderson

USA

La Palma-Grenada

20

Vieux Malin

Alpa 42

Mauro Benjamin Mistretta

ITA

Lanzarote-Martinique

Blue Planet Log

1

Editor Jimmy Cornell Managing Editor Doina Cornell Subeditor Gwenda Cornell Graphic Artist Joerg Baginski Contributors Gwenda Cornell, Pascal Guiraudou, Denis Giles, Emily Penn, Martin Kramp, Steven Bowden, John Ellis, Paul Ladino, Doina Cornell, Joseph Richardson, Benjamin Riddle, Dan Cornell

Photographs Daniel Strauch (p. 6), Pascal Guiraudou (p. 16-21), Le Phare Bleu Marina (p. 23), Biswarup Ganguly and Voguru (p. 25), Denis Giles (p. 27), Emily Penn (p. 22, 29), Chris Jordan, Five Gyres Institute (p. 29), Pablo Aguilera (p. 36), MICC (p. 39), Benjamin Riddle (p. 40-41), Doina Cornell (p. 41). Jimmy Cornell (all others) © Cornell Sailing Events Ltd. 8 Silver Street Dursley GL11 4ND United Kingdom Tel. +44 1453 543872 Cornell Sailing www.cornellsailing.com info@cornellsailing.com

Subscribe to the Blue Planet Log

Blue Planet Odyssey www.blueplanetodyssey.com info@blueplanetodyssey.com www.facebook.com/BluePlanetOdyssey Follow us on Twitter @sailtheodyssey Atlantic Odyssey www.atlanticodyssey.org info@atlanticodyssey.org www.facebook.com/CornellsAtlanticOdyssey www.facebook.com/pages/Rallye-Atlantic-Odyssey Seminars seminar@cornellsailing.com Printed by Girzig+Gottschalk GmbH Hannoversche Str. 64 28309 Bremen Germany

If you’ve enjoyed reading the Blue Planet Log and would like to support our events, you can now subscribe to future issues. Subscription rates are $100 (£65/€75) for which you will receive the quarterly Blue Planet Log from 2013 to 2016. Send an email to info@blueplanetodyssey.com for information on how to subscribe. Note For Blue Planet Odyssey participants the Blue Planet Log is included in the entry fees. Atlantic Odyssey participants will receive the issues which cover their event.



Garcia Yachting is developing a new exploration yacht in close collaboration with Jimmy Cornell for his next round the world voyage, this time through the Northwest Passage

GARCIA EXPLORATION 45

2014 RELEASE

EXPLORATION & BLUE WATER CRUISING A YACHT DESIGNED TO BE SAILED AND LIVED ABOARD BOTH IN HIGH LATITUDES AND TROPICAL WATERS

> > > > >

INTEGRAL ALUMINUM CENTERBOARD WATERTIGHT FRONT / AFT BULKHEAD AND COMPANIONWAY DOOR REINFORCED INSULATION AND VENTILATION DECK SALOON AND INSIDE STEERING POSITION OPTIMALLY CENTRALIZED WEIGHT

«I wanted a strong, fast, comfortable, functional and easily handled boat perfectly suited for both high latitude and tropical sailing. I finally decided to develop a new boat which would be as close as can be to my ideal long distance cruising boat. I am very happy to share my enthusiasm with Garcia Yachting, one of the best aluminum boat builders in the world.» Jimmy Cornell

GARCIA YACHTING BUILDING HANDMADE QUALITY PASSAGEMAKERS SINCE 1974

www.garcia-yachting.com

info@garcia-yachting.com ı tél. +33 2 31690392 ©Garcia Yachting | Concept Yannick Mignot | rough : Berret-Racoupeau

Membre du groupe Grand Large Yachting Tout le grand voyage www.glyachting.com www.grandlargecafe.com


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