Blue Planet
Issue 2 • July 2013
ANDAMAN ISLANDS DISPATCH FROM THE INDIAN OCEAN
LONG DISTANCE CRUISING SEMINAR MEET THE EXPERTS
ATLANTIC ODYSSEY A NEW TRANSATLANTIC RALLY Lanzarote – Martinique La Palma – Grenada
The Oceans – Our Heritage for the Future
We are with you on the Blue Planet Odyssey and the Atlantic Odyssey Grand Large Yachting is the result of an association of several renowned French boat builders specialising in long distance voyages. Grand Large Yachting’s commitment is to accompany you from the beginning of your initial idea of a long voyage to the moment of your return. From the choice of boat, overseeing its construction, its launch and delivery to preparing your departure, we will be by your side all along the way. Grand Large Yachting is the only group today offering all the solutions for long distance voyages in monohulls or catamarans, in aluminium or composite, under sail or motor. Contact us to find the solution which corresponds to your expectations and your voyaging plans !
Allures Yachting
Grand Large Services
Allures Yachting make integral centreboard yachts from 40 to 51 feet. The round bilge aluminium hulls ensure all Allures yachts maximum security. The composite superstructure provides sound and thermal insulation, weight saving and the freedom to shape it for optimal comfort. As with all constructors in the group, Allures Yachting offer considerable personalisation of their yachts. Allures brings together security, comfort and performance in producing innovative oceangoing yachts.
In order to better respond to the needs of its boat owners, Grand Large Yachting has created a separate entity especially for them: Grand Large Services. Its mission is to meet the owners’ essential demands: commissioning, after sales service, maintenance, fitting additional equipment, refitting, offshore commissioning and training, preparing the boat for resale.
www.allures.fr
Garcia Yachting
www.garcia-yachting.com Garcia Yachting has been building exceptional oceangoing yachts since 1974. A leading aluminium virtuoso, the constructor produces integral centreboard and retractable keel yachts from 50 to 115 feet, as well as long haul trawlers. Garcia Yachting boats have received numerous awards including the prestigious International Superyacht Design Award in the USA. The Garcia Trawler 54 has just been elected European Yacht of the Year. You will come across Garcia yachts all over the world and in the most challenging seas!
Outremer Yachting
www.catamaran-outremer.com Since 1984, Outremer Yachting has been the specialist of blue water cruising catamarans that are seaworthy, fast and easy to handle. Outremer catamarans range from 45 to 59 feet. In January 2013, the Outremer 5X has been elected European Yacht of the Year by journalists from 11 different countries.
www.glyachting.com
A sailing community www.grandlargecafe.com
With 600 boats sailing all over the world and several million nautical miles to their credit, the group benefits from an exceptional sailing community across the four corners of the globe. Their valuable experience is a powerful tool that enables us to better understand the needs of those who sail and better develop boats that correspond perfectly to their needs. This sailing community also represents a unique inspirational source for all potential voyagers who plan to follow in their wake and live their own adventure.
contact@glyachting.com www.glyachting.com Watch the next issue for more news !
Avec vous sur le Blue Planet Odyssey & l’Atlantic Odyssey Fruit de l’association de chantiers français réputés de la Grande Croisière, Grand Large Yachting est le spécialiste du grand voyage en bateau. La vocation de Grand Large Yachting est de vous accompagner depuis votre idée d’un grand voyage jusqu’à votre retour en passant par toutes les étapes du choix du bateau, du suivi de sa fabrication, de la mise en main, de la préparation au départ, voire même de la revente. Grand Large Yachting est aujourd’hui le seul groupe proposant toutes les solutions pour la grande croisière, sur une ou deux coques, en aluminium ou en composite, à la voile ou au moteur. Contactez-nous pour trouver la solution qui correspond à vos attentes et à votre programme !
Allures Yachting
Grand Large Services
Allures Yachting fabrique des dériveurs intégraux de 40 à 51 pieds. Les coques aluminium en forme offrent aux voiliers Allures une sécurité maximum. Les superstructures en composite procurent isolation phonique et thermique, gain de poids et liberté de forme pour un confort optimal. Comme tous les chantiers du groupe, Allures Yachting propose une large personnalisation de ses bateaux. Voiliers de voyage innovants, les Allures allient sécurité, confort et performance.
Pour toujours mieux répondre aux attentes de ses propriétaires de bateaux, Grand Large Yachting a créé une structure qui leur est dédiée : Grand Large Services. Cette structure a pour mission de répondre aux demandes des propriétaires : service après vente, maintenance, ajout d’équipements, refit, accompagnement, formation, préparation à la revente du bateau, vente d’occasion.
www.allures.fr
Garcia Yachting
www.garcia-yachting.com Depuis 1974, Garcia Yachting produit des bateaux de voyage d’exception. Virtuose de l’aluminium, le chantier fabrique des voiliers dériveurs intégraux ou quille relevable de 50 à 115 pieds, ainsi que des trawlers au long cours. Les bateaux Garcia Yachting ont reçu de nombreuses récompenses, dont le prestigieux «International Superyacht Design Award» aux USA. Le Garcia Trawler 54 vient d’être élu European Power Boat of The Year. Vous croiserez des Garcia partout dans le monde et dans les mers les plus extrêmes !
www.glyachting.com
Une communauté de navigateurs www.grandlargecafe.com
Fort de 600 bateaux qui naviguent autour du monde et des plusieurs millions de milles nautiques parcourus, le groupe bénéficie d’une communauté exceptionnelle de navigateurs aux quatre coins de la planète. Leurs retours d’expérience constituent pour nous un moteur puissant pour comprendre les besoins de ceux qui naviguent et développer des bateaux qui correspondent parfaitement à ces besoins. Cette communauté de navigateurs représente également une source d’inspiration unique pour tous les candidats au voyage qui veulent franchir le pas et vivre cette aventure exceptionnelle.
Outremer Yachting
www.catamaran-outremer.com Depuis 1984, Outremer Yachting est le spécialiste du catamaran de voyage à la fois marin, rapide et simple. Les catamarans Outremer Yachting vont de 45 à 59 pieds. En janvier 2013, l’Outremer 5X a reçu le titre de « Bateau Européen de l’année » décerné par des journalistes de 11 pays.
contact@glyachting.com www.glyachting.com
à suivre…
A new transatlantic rally for cruising sailors For the first time in a transatlantic event participants will have a choice of departing and finishing ports as well as start dates
Atlantic Odyssey I: 17 November 2013 from Arrecife, Lanzarote to Martinique Atlantic Odyssey II: 12 January 2014 from Santa Cruz de la Palma to Grenada In Lanzarote, the yachts will be hosted in the new Marina Lanzarote, based in the island’s capital, Arrecife. In Martinique, Port du Marin, one of the Caribbean’s leading yachting centre, will welcome the fleet for this inaugural edition. Marina La Palma will host the fleet in Santa Cruz, the capital of the island of La Palma. Le Phare Bleu Marina will be the host in Grenada.
martinique la palma
lanzarote
grenada
Un nouveau rallye transatlantique pour les plaisanciers Pour la première fois dans un rallye transatlantique, les participants ont le choix entre deux ports de départ et d‘arrivée, et deux dates de départ.
Atlantic Odyssey I : 17 novembre 2013 d‘Arrecife, Lanzarote vers la Martinique Atlantic Odyssey II : 12 janvier 2014 de Santa Cruz de la Palma vers Grenade A Lanzarote, les bateaux seront hébergés dans la nouvelle Marina Lanzarote, à Arrecife, capitale de l‘île. En Martinique, Port du Marin, l‘un des centres nautiques les plus importants des Caraïbes, accueillera la flotte pour cette édition inaugurale. Marina La Palma accueillera le rallye à Santa Cruz, capitale de l‘île de La Palma. Le Phare Bleu Marina sera notre hôte à Grenade.
The Atlantic Odyssey is sponsored in the Canary Islands by Puerto Calero Marinas, regional and local government and port authorities. In Martinique, the event is sponsored by the Regional Council and Martinique Tourist Board. In Grenada the event is sponsored by Le Phare Bleu Marina and Grenada Tourist Board. L‘Atlantic Odyssey est sponsorisé aux Canaries par Puerto Calero Marinas, le gouvernement régional et local, et les autorités portuaires. En Martinique, il est sponsorisé par le Conseil Régional et le Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme. A Grenade, il est sponsorisé par Le Phare Bleu Marina et l‘Office du Tourisme de Grenade.
MANUAL DE IDENTIDAD CORPORATIVA
A new odyssey is born In this issue we welcome participants in the new Atlantic Odyssey as well as our friends in the Blue Planet Odyssey.
Logbook
Shortly after the launch of the Blue Planet Odyssey I received an email from an old Canarian friend, José Calero, telling me that if I needed any help with this new event in the Canaries, I should look no further. He also told me that in addition to his Puerto Calero marina he was developing a new yachting facility near the capital Arrecife and invited us to be his guests at Marina Lanzarote.
06 10 11 12
José’s generous offer reminded me of the warm welcome participants in my other rallies had always received in his native Lanzarote. As you will read in the following pages, Lanzarote is a unique island, outstanding in its stark beauty, remarkable in its determination to retain its pristine environment and traditional values. As a result, Lanzarote was one of the first islands in the world to be declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 1993. The twentieth anniversary of that significant event was too tempting an opportunity to miss and, as a result, a new transatlantic rally will be staged from Lanzarote later this year to mark that anniversary. For many years I had intended to finish a transatlantic rally in a French Caribbean island and this was my chance! On an exploratory visit to Martinique I was greatly impressed by the enthusiastic response from the various authorities to the suggestion of making their island the destination of the Atlantic Odyssey. The invitation from Eric Jean-Joseph, port captain of Marina Le Marin, led to an easy decision to host our fleet there. Concern for the environment is now a major priority for the people of this attractive island so the Atlantic Odyssey, and next year’s Blue Planet Odyssey, will provide a perfect opportunity to disseminate our message »The oceans, our heritage for the future.« But that is not the end of the story. One of the most important lessons that I learnt during my long career of organising rallies is that sailors like having a choice. Anyone planning an Atlantic crossing is faced with the dilemma of choosing the optimum start time: a late November start has the attraction of arriving in the Caribbean at the start of the safe season, which also coincides with the winter holidays. A later start from the Canaries benefits from better sailing conditions as the trade winds only become fully established in the early months of the year. As a result, participants in the Atlantic Odyssey have the choice of a later start from La Palma and a finish in Grenada. The new Marina La Palma will host the fleet in Santa Cruz, the capital of the island of La Palma, while in Grenada we shall be the guests of Le Phare Bleu Marina. It is indeed a great pleasure to stage a start of the Atlantic Odyssey from La Palma as it was from that island that I set off on my first voyage across the Atlantic on 15 November 1976. The memory of the high island vanishing behind us as the vast ocean kindly took us in its warm embrace is one of the unforgettable moments in my sailing life.
Lanzarote Atlantic Odyssey start Biosphere Reserve Marinas Atlantic Odyssey départ
La Martinique 16 An nou alé 19 Let’s go 21 La Palma
The pretty island
22 Grenada
The spice island
24 Community Projects An overview
25 Andaman and Nicobar Islands
Dispatch from the Indian Ocean
28 Talking Trash
Dealing with waste at sea
30 JCOMMOPS
A developing partnership
32 HF SSB Radio
Do you need one?
34 Managing Sailing Events
Tribulations of an event director
36 Power for Offshore Cruising
Solutions for one boat
38 Long Distance Cruising Seminar
Meet the experts
40 Spreading the Word
Literary corner
42 Blue Planet Odyssey Explorers News from participants
46 Atlantic Odyssey Argonauts News from participants
Jimmy Cornell and José Calero at the launch of Atlantic Odyssey
Next issue: October 2013 •
La Palma and Grenada
•
San Blas and Panama Canal
•
Women and Cruising
•
Satellite Phones
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 5
the volcanic mix in the soil created a fertility, which led farming and especially viticulture to flourish
Gwenda Cornell
Atlantic Odyssey Start
Lanzarote The result of the eruption in 1730 is a vast lunar landscape with strange twisted shapes of solidified lava
T
here are few islands in the world that have such a distinctive character as Lanzarote. Instantly recognizable wherever you go, the colours of black, white and green give a special unity to the island; black volcanic rock, dazzling whitewashed houses with bright green painted doors and windows. There is
an African feel to the villages, which is not surprising as the island is the closest of all the Canary Islands to the African coast, barely 55 miles at the nearest point. Lying on the same Atlantic seismic ridge as Iceland, Madeira and the Azores, Lanzarote is drier and flatter than the more Western Canaries, but its volcanic nature is evident with some 300 volcanoes dotted over the 60km long island, which has given it the name of Isla de los Volcanes. The last eruption in 1730 was one of the largest in recorded history and spewed out molten rock and lava over six years devastating some 200 square kilometres. This area is now a national park and is one of the premier attractions to visit. Although known since early times the island was rarely visited and the local inhabitants were rather left to their own devices. It was a marauding Genoese expedition
6 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
No buildings could be over four stories high” in the fourteenth century led by one
The distinct unity of the island is
the villages and resorts the standard
Lancelotto Malocello that gave the island
undoubtedly due to the influence of one
whitewashed cubes of houses adorned
its modern name. Lanzarote was the first
man, Cesar Manrique. Although he was
with strange onion-shaped chimney
of the Canary Islands to be claimed for
born and grew up on the island, as a
pots are punctuated by shutters and
the Spanish throne, when in 1402 the
young man he left to study art in Madrid
doors in Lanzarote green, evolved from
Norman adventurer Jean de Bethencourt
and Europe. Influenced by painters such
the copper-based paint once used by
and his crew met little resistance to
as Picasso and Matisse he made his
fishermen on their boats.
their arrival. It was the beginning of the
name internationally as an artist, but
His own house he built in volcanic
Spanish conquest. Although settlers came
following a successful American tour
bubbles underground at Tahiche. After
from Normandy and Spain, the island
in 1968 he decided to return home. He
his death in a car accident in 1992, this
did not flourish, mainly due to frequent
saw his beloved Lanzarote as a blank
house was transformed into the Cesar
attacks by Moroccan pirates as well as
canvas and turned his talent to various
Manrique Foundation to house his art
English and French buccaneers. In the
projects on the island particularly in
collection and makes for an interesting
mid seventeenth century, the population
architecture. He lobbied for maintaining
visit. Not far away is the Monumento
had been reduced to barely 300 souls.
traditional architecture and preserving
del Campesino, a huge strange sculpture
Ironically after
great volcanic
the natural environment and fortunately
built by Manrique to honour the long-
eruptions, the volcanic mix in the soil
the
the local government heeded him. Under
suffering Lanzarotean peasants toiling
created a fertility, which led farming and
his influence billboards and advertising
in the fields. Workshops featuring local
especially viticulture to flourish, but it
hoardings were forbidden and no
crafts are in the museum and beside
was twentieth century tourism that made
buildings could be over four stories
it is an interesting restaurant serving
the prosperous island of today.
high, (except in the capital Arrecife). In
local fare. Further north is another of
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 7
The distinct unity of the island is undoubtedly due to the influence of one man, Cesar Manrique” Manrique’s ideas, the Jardin de Cactus bristling in more ways than one with over 10,000 cactus plants and succulents, featuring the many species that flourish on the island. One of the most interesting places to visit is the result of an ancient lava slide into the ocean. A small wooden signpost saying “Cueva de los Verdes” in a treeless and featureless landscape belies what lies beneath, a spectacular chasm that is the longest volcanic tunnel in the world, a 8km long tube carved out 5000 years ago when the molten lava stream flowed down to the ocean. The top layers cooled to form the roof and the caverns are remarkable for their colourful rock formations. Centuries ago local people took refuge from pirates here and their artefacts, from ceramics to tools and bones, are displayed in Arrecife’s Archeological Museum. Nearby, just before the lava river got to the sea it met an underground stream and the resulting explosion formed a lake and huge cavern, now called Jameos del Agua. The ever-inventive Manrique had the idea of building bars and a restaurant around the azure lake as well as a 600 seat concert hall with perfect acoustics, where concerts are held from time to time. On the northern tip of the island is yet another of Manrique’s creations, the Mirador El Rio, a spectacular viewpoint built into an old Spanish gun emplacement with a giddying 500 metre sheer drop down the cliff and views across the El Rio straits to the small island of Graciosa. It goes without saying that a bar and restaurant grace the high domed whitewashed space. Almost at the other end of the island is the most visited site, the National Park of
To the north of the National Park, the
Timanfaya and Montana del Fuego (Fire Mountain) formed following the 1730 eruption
lava-enriched soil has lent itself to some
of the Timanfaya volcano. The result is a vast lunar landscape with strange twisted
interesting ways of growing grapes. The
shapes of solidified lava in hues of black, grey, red, copper and maroon. Nothing grows
vines are protected by small semicircular
here apart from a few lichens. The park organises buses to follow the 14 km long Ruta
stonewalls to keep the rich soil in place.
de los Volcanes as the public is not allowed outside designated areas. If one scrabbles
Mostly white wine is produced, the most
around at the top and picks up a pebble one understands why, the pebble is too hot
famous being El Grifo.
to hold. A pot of water poured into a hole in the ground immediately gushes up as
Although the volcanic landscape may be
a steaming geyser. The lookout and Restaurant del Diable was designed - yes, you
what sets Lanzarote apart, it is the sun,
guessed right – by the ubiquitous Manrique. A highlight of a meal here is watching your
sand and sea that attracts the tourists,
meal being barbequed over a hole in the ground – grilled by a volcano.
particularly in the European winter. The best resorts are towards the south of the island, Puerto de Carmen and Playa Blanca, both fronted by beaches and backed by a selection of bars, restaurants and nightspots. All the facilities that tourists need and a selection of excursions are offered in these resorts. Deep sea fishing and submarine trips are on offer at the more upmarket resort at Puerto Calero, where restaurants surround a stylish marina. If one is after a quieter time, that can be found too. Just a few miles up the coast from Playa Blanca on a dirt track are a series of small sandy coves in the
8 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
In the northwest is where Cesar Manrique spent his childhood days on the wild deserted beach at La Caleta de Fuste
Protected Nature Reserve of Punta del Papagayo. On the west coast one can find black sand lava beaches on the way to the small fishing village of El Golfo and
The surrounding lava field was allowed to spill into Cesar Manrique’s home through a panoramic window Cesar Manrique’s home
its charming seafood restaurants. In the northwest is where Cesar Manrique spent his childhood days on the wild deserted beach at La Caleta de Fuste. No longer deserted, it is still a fine long beach, a little on the wild side with few facilities apart from a few seafood restaurants. The wind blows strongly here and it is a popular place with surfers. Sailing, surfing, walking, lounging on the beach, fine dining, partying or just chilling out – there is something for everyone in Lanzarote.
Timanfaya logo by Cesar Manrique
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 9
One of the least visited countries in the South Pacific
Lanzarote
biosphere reserve
L
anzarote was declared a
and aspirations of local populations by
to guide its touristic development
biosphere reserve in 1993
reconciling conservation of resources
towards more sustainable practices. The
and it was the first time that
with their sustainable use.
biosphere reserve is fully supported by
UNESCO
Nations
In the case of Lanzarote’s unique
the local communities who take an active
Educational, Scientific and Cultural
(United
environment, due to the relatively low
role in implementing its aims.
Organization) had decided to include
altitude and gentle relief, the island
Among the factors that have contributed
a territory as a whole. The Lanzarote
does not catch the humidity of the trade
to
the
success
of
the
Lanzarote
Biosphere Reserve is made up of the
winds and the annual rainfall is very low.
experiment is the preservation of several
northernmost islands of the Canary
As a result, plants are adapted to arid
natural areas of interest, including
Archipelago. It covers 84600 ha including
conditions. In spite of this, Lanzarote has
the Timanfaya National Park, the high
the smaller northern islands, and has a
a relatively high number of species of
standard of environmental awareness
population of over 110.000. The perfect
which approximately twenty plants are
among the island’s population, the
symbiosis achieved in Lanzarote between
locally endemic.
presence of an extensive range of works
man and nature is undoubtedly the main
The harsh volcanic environment has been
tailored to the unique environment, and
reason for this international recognition.
adapted by human ingenuity to make a
the conservation of a type of agriculture
UNESCO created the concept of
highly specialised agricultural landscape
which is almost unique among island
biosphere reserves in 1976 in order to
and has inspired its inhabitants to take
cultures of our planet.
identify and retain those territories where
conservation measures. The idea of mass
The influence and inspiration of Cesar
there are representative ecosystems of a
tourism was rejected and, under the
Manrique cannot be stressed enough as
defined region and in which there are
influence of the celebrated local artist
he was the inspiration for the proposal to
the conditions that enable sustained
César Manrique, priority was given to
declare Lanzarote a biosphere reserve. His
economic development and land use
blending tourist infrastructure with the
own work integrated into the landscape
compatible with the conservation of its
beautiful but inhospitable environment.
by what he described as a symbiosis
natural resources. The main aim of such
The Island Council (Cabildo Insular)
of art and nature. This continues to be
biosphere reserves is to conserve the
regulates land use and controls excessive
a perfect example of the harmonious
diversity of our planet while, at the
urban and tourist developments. Over the
intervention of man in his environment.
same time, meeting the material needs
last thirty years, Lanzarote has managed
10 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Marinas Take your pick
I
Marina Lanzarote Hosting the Atlantic Odyssey will be the island’s newest marina, Marina Lanzarote. Located in the harbour of the island’s capital Arrecife, it
is close to all amenities and only 15 minutes from the airport. This new yachting hub is due for completion in Spring 2014, but will already be operational when the Atlantic Odyssey arrives. With an extensive boatyard and range of maintenance services, incorporating facilities for superyachts and multihulls, together with plenty to satisfy visiting cruisers, Marina Lanzarote is destined to become another significant destination for sailors in the Canaries. VHF 9/16 400 berths, 250 Visitors berths, Max LOA 70m, Max draft 5m. Reservations: reservas@puertocalero.com
II
Puerto Calero The first high quality marina to be established in
III
Marina Rubicon On the south coast of the island, the full service Marina Rubicón is surrounded by a commercial area, shops, restaurants, terraces and swimming
Lanzarote, Puerto Calero is very well protected
pool, all integrated within the natural surroundings. The unspoilt
and offers all the facilities that might be required
beaches of Papagayo are nearby and it is a short walk along a
upon arriving in port. The busy boatyard includes reliable repair
pedestrian seafront promenade to the resort of Playa Blanca.
and maintenance services and the quiet waterfront is replete
The climate allows you to enjoy your boat all year round. The
with a wide variety of both gourmet and good-value restaurants.
marina’s proximity to the Isla de Lobos and Fuerteventura is also
Shops, spas and sports activities are all available and the marina
a major attraction.
organises talks and events for visiting cruisers. With the airport
VHF 9
only 12km away, Puerto Calero is a popular choice for sailors
550 berths, some visitors berths, Max LOA 70m, Max draft 4.5m.
wishing to leave their boat in the Canaries.
Reservations: info@marinarubicon.com
VHF 9/16
Boatyard: varadero@marinarubicon.com
450 berths, 225 Visitors berths, Max LOA 70m, Max draft 5m. Reservations: reservas@puertocalero.com
All the above three marinas are full service marinas with
Boatyard: varadero@puertocalero.com
reception dock, berthing assistance, fuel, showers, launderette, internet access, weather forecasts, 24 hr security, boatyard, travel-lift, chandlery, mechanics, sail repair and maintenance available.
IV
Playa Blanca Previously a tiny fishing village, the port of Playa Blanca has gradually expanded into a larger tourist resort along the south coast of the island.
The small port has some floating pontoons where a few places are normally available to visitors. Playa Blanca is also the ferry port connecting Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. There is fuel, water, electricity and a travel lift, but no showers, nor chandlery and repair facilities on site.
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 11
Ironiquement, après les grandes éruptions volcaniques, le sol fut enrichi et devint fertile, permettant à l’agriculture et surtout à la viticulture de s’épanoui
Gwenda Cornell
Atlantic Odyssey Départ
Lanzarote L’éruption en 1730 formée un vaste paysage lunaire aux étranges formations torturées de lave solidifiée
P
eu d’îles dans le monde ont un caractère aussi distinctif que Lanzarote. Où que l’on aille, on la reconnaît instantanément aux couleurs noires, blanches et vertes qui lui donnent cette unité si spéciale : la roche volcanique noire, les éblouissantes maisons blanchies à la chaux avec leurs portes et leurs
fenêtres d’un vert brillant. Il y a un parfum d’Afrique dans ces villages, ce qui n’est pas surprenant quand on sait que c’est l’île des Canaries la plus proche de la côte africaine, à peine à 55 milles au point le plus proche. Située sur la même dorsale sismique atlantique que l’Islande, Madère et les Açores, Lanzarote est plus aride et plate que les îles plus à l’ouest des Canaries, mais sa nature volcanique est évidente, avec quelques 300 volcans éparpillés sur les 60 km de long de l’île, ce qui lui a valu le nom de Isla de los Volcanes. La dernière éruption en 1730 fut l’une des plus importantes enregistrées dans l’histoire, et rejeta de la roche et de la lave en fusion pendant plus de six ans, dévastant quelques 200 kilomètres carrés. Cette région est aujourd’hui un parc national et l’une des premières attractions à visiter.
12 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
La hauteur des immeubles limitée à quatre étages” Bien que connue depuis des temps
grandes éruptions volcaniques, le sol
préserver l’environnement naturel et fut
anciens, l’île était rarement visitée et
fut enrichi et devint fertile, permettant
heureusement suivi par le gouvernement.
ses habitants étaient laissés à leur
à l’agriculture et surtout à la viticulture
Sous
propre sort. C’est une expédition génoise
de s’épanouir, mais c’est le tourisme du
publicitaires
de pillards conduite par un certain
vingtième siècle qui développa l’île
interdits et la hauteur des immeubles
Lancelotto Malocello qui donna à l’île
prospère d’aujourd’hui.
limitée à quatre étages, sauf dans la
son nom actuel. Lanzarote fut la première
L’identité
est
capitale Arrecife. Dans les villages et
île des Canaries à être revendiquée par
indubitablement le résultat de l’influence
les stations touristiques, les classiques
le trône d’Espagne, par l’intermédiaire
d’un homme, Cesar Manrique. Né et élevé
maisons cubiques blanchies à la chaux
de
l’aventurier
normand
Jean
distincte
de
l’île
son
influence, les et
panneaux
d’affichage
furent
de
sur l’île, il partit jeune homme étudier
ornées d’étranges cheminées en forme
Bethencourt et de son équipage qui ne
l’art à Madrid et en Europe. Influencé par
de bulbe sont ponctuées de volets et
rencontrèrent que peu de résistance à
des peintres comme Picasso et Matisse,
de portes peints de la couleur verte de
leur arrivée en 1402. C’était le début de la
il devint un artiste internationalement
Lanzarote, dérivée de la peinture à base
conquête espagnole. Des colons vinrent
reconnu, mais décida de rentrer chez
de cuivre utilisée jadis par les pêcheurs
de Normandie et d’Espagne, mais l’île ne
lui après une tournée pleine de succès
pour leurs bateaux. Il construisit sa
se développa guère, essentiellement à
en Amérique en 1968. Sa bien aimée
propre maison dans des bulles de lave
cause des attaques fréquentes des pirates
Lanzarote lui apparut comme une toile
souterraines à Tahiche. Après sa mort
marocains et des flibustiers français
vierge et il mit son talent au service de
dans un accident de voiture en 1992,
et anglais. Au milieu du dix-septième
différents projets sur l’île, notamment
sa maison a été transformée en une
siècle, la population se réduisait à 300
en architecture. Il fit pression pour
fondation Cesar Manrique pour abriter
âmes à peine. Ironiquement, après les
conserver l’architecture traditionnelle et
sa collection d’art. C’est une visite très
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 13
L’identité distincte de l’île est indubitablement le résultat de l’influence d’un homme, Cesar Manrique” intéressante à faire. Non loin de là se trouve le Monumento del Campesino, une gigantesque et étrange culture construite par Manrique pour honorer les paysans qui souffrent depuis longtemps pour travailler la terre. Des ateliers d’artisanat local sont situés dans le musée et il y a un intéressant restaurant à côté qui sert des plats locaux. Plus au nord le Jardin de Cactus, une autre idée de Manrique, est hérissé (à plus d’un titre !) de quelques 10 000 cactus et plantes grasses, représentant les nombreuses espèces qui s’épanouissent sur l’île. L’un des endroits les plus intéressants à visiter résulte du glissement ancien d’une coulée de lave dans l’océan. Un petit panneau en bois indiquant “Cueva de los Verdes”, dans un paysage sans arbres et sans relief, ne reflète pas ce qui se cache en-dessous : un gouffre spectaculaire qui est le plus long tunnel volcanique du monde, un long tube de 8 km creusé il y a 5000 ans quand la lave en fusion coulait dans l’océan. Les couches supérieures se sont refroidies pour former le toit, et les cavernes présentent de remarquables formations de roches colorées. Des siècles auparavant, les habitants locaux s’y abritaient des pirates et leurs objets, des céramiques, des outils et des ossements, sont exposés au Musée Archéologique d’Arrecife. A côté, juste avant que la rivière de lave n’ait pénétré la mer, elle a rencontré une coulée souterraine et l’explosion
La résidence de Cesar Manrique
qui en a résulté a formé un lac et une immense caverne, aujourd’hui appelée Jameos de Agua. Le toujours inventif Manrique a eu l’idée de construire des bars et un restaurant autour du lac d’azur, ainsi qu’une salle de concert de 600 places à l’acoustique parfaite, où des concerts sont donnés de temps en temps. A l’extrémité nord de l’île, on trouve encore une autre des créations de Manrique, le Mirador El Rio, un point de vue spectaculaire construit à l’emplacement d’une vieille
formations torturées de lave solidifiée
batterie de canons espagnole. Du haut d’un à pic vertigineux de 500 mètres, au sommet
aux teintes noires, grises, rouges, ocres
de la falaise, on a une vue splendide à travers le détroit El Rio sur l’île de Graciosa.
et marrons. Rien ne pousse ici à part
Bien entendu, un bar-restaurant occupe cet espace blanchi à la chaux et couvert d’un
quelques lichens. Le parc organise des
grand dôme.
visites en bus le long des 14 km de
Presque à l’autre bout de l’île, se trouvent les sites les plus visités, le parc national
la Ruta de los Volcanes, car le public
de Timanfaya et la Montaña Del Fuego (Montagne de Feu), formée à la suite de
n’est pas autorisé en dehors des aires
l’éruption du volcan Timanfaya en 1730. C’est un vaste paysage lunaire aux étranges
désignées. On comprend pourquoi quand on s’aventure à ramasser un caillou : il est trop chaud pour le tenir en main. Un récipient rempli d’eau versé dans un trou dans le sol rejaillit immédiatement en un geyser de vapeur. Le point de vue et le Restaurant del Diable ont été dessinés par, devinez qui, l’omniprésent Manrique. Ici, le clou de votre déjeuner sera de le regarder cuire sur un barbecue réalisé dans un trou dans le sol – un barbecue volcanique en somme. Au nord du parc national, le sol fertilisé par la lave a donné lieu à une façon originale de cultiver la vigne : les plants
14 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Au nord-ouest, Cesar Manrique a passé son enfance sur la plage sauvage et déserte de La Caleta de Fuste sont protégés par de petits murets de
marina. Si l’on cherche des moments plus
pierres circulaires pour garder le riche
tranquilles, la réserve naturelle protégée
sol en place. Le vin blanc est l’essentiel
de Punta del Papagayo, à quelques milles
de la production, le plus fameux étant
de piste poussiéreuse de Playa Blanca
El Grifo.
sur la côte offre une série de petites
Bien que le paysage volcanique soit
criques sablonneuses. Sur la côte ouest,
ce qui caractérise Lanzarote, c’est le
on peut trouver des plages de sable noir
soleil, le sable et la mer qui attirent
volcanique sur le chemin du petit village
les touristes, particulièrement pendant
de pêche de El Golfo et de ses charmants
l’hiver en Europe. Les meilleures stations
restaurants de fruits de mer.
balnéaires sont vers le sud de l’île, Puerto
Au nord-ouest, Cesar Manrique a passé
Carmen et Playa Blanca, toutes deux
son enfance sur la plage sauvage et
bordées de plages et d’un bon choix de
déserte de La Caleta de Fuste. Elle n’est
bars, de restaurants et d’établissements
plus déserte, mais c’est toujours une belle
nocturnes. On trouve dans ces stations
et longue plage, assez sauvage, avec peu
toutes les infrastructures recherchées
d’installations en dehors de quelques
par les touristes ainsi qu’une sélection
restaurants de fruits de mer. Le vent y
d’excursions. Des sorties de pêche en
souffle fort et les surfeurs l’apprécient.
eau profonde et des promenades sous-
Naviguer, surfer, marcher, lézarder sur
marines sont proposées par la station
la plage, bien manger, faire la fête ou
plus haut de gamme de Puerto Calero, où
simplement décompresser – chacun
les restaurants entourent une élégante
trouvera son bonheur à Lanzarote.
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 15
Jimmy Cornell, Marie Lynn Toussaint (Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme) et Eric Jean-Joseph (capitaine port du Marin)
Pascal Guiraudou
La Martinique An Nou Alé !
*
L
humide, de juillet à octobre, est marquée par des averses plus nombreuses et plus fortes et des températures plus
es indiens Caraïbes, qui la
ses habitants accueillants, qui aiment
élevées (31°C à 32°C). L’humidité est
peuplaient jadis, l’appelaient
partager leurs traditions quand on prend
forte et le vent souvent faible. En cette
Madinina, “l’île aux fleurs”.
le temps de les écouter.
saison, certaines perturbations peuvent
Christophe Colomb aurait
La Martinique est au coeur de l’arc des
évoluer en dépression tropicale, tempête
répété ce nom quand il y débarqua lors
Petites Antilles, dans la mer des Caraïbes,
tropicale ou parfois ouragan.
de son quatrième voyage, le 15 juin
entre la Dominique, au nord et Sainte-
A partir de 2500 av. J-C, des populations
1502, nom qui se transforma ensuite en
Lucie au sud. A quelques 2800 milles
amérindiennes arrivèrent du bassin de
Martinique. A moins qu’il n’ait baptisé l’île
nautiques de Lanzarote en bateau, elle
l’Orénoque par vagues successives. Puis
du nom du saint du jour, Saint-Martin ?
n’est qu’à 9 heures d’avion de l’Europe et
les indiens Arawak s’établirent sur l’île
Quoi qu’il en soit, pour les navigateurs
3 heures de Miami. Elle est peuplée de
vers 500 av. J-C. Peu avant l’an 1000,
traversant l’Atlantique, la Martinique c’est
400 000 habitants. La langue officielle
les indiens Caraïbes, venus du plateau
d’abord la promesse d’un repos bien
est le français, mais le créole est aussi
des Guyanes, remontent à leur tour l’arc
mérité et d’un cocktail de rêve à l’arrivée :
parlé couramment.
antillais et remplacent peu à peu les
mouillages fantastiques, soleil et chaleur
Le climat est tropical, avec deux saisons
populations antérieures. En 1502, ils
tempérés par l’alizé, paysages d’une
distinctes. La saison sèche, de février
occupent la Martinique quand Christophe
diversité spectaculaire et végétation
à avril, bénéficie d’un bon alizé d’est
Colomb y débarque lors de son quatrième
exubérante, senteurs exquises des fleurs
à nord-est. Le temps est ensoleillé et
voyage.
et saveurs épicées de sa gastronomie
peu pluvieux et les températures ne
En 1635, Richelieu envoie des colons
créole, rencontres authentiques avec
dépassent pas 28°C à 30°C. La saison
s’accaparer la Martinique et y planter de
16 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
* Allons-y ! (en créole)
la canne à sucre. Le roi Louis XIII autorise alors l’esclavage dans les Antilles Françaises. En 1658, les derniers Caraïbes sont tués ou chassés sur la Dominique. La canne à sucre devient l’or de la Martinique, attaquée et occupée quatre fois entre 1762 et 1814 par la flotte anglaise. L’esclavage est enfin définitivement aboli le 22 mai 1848, grâce à Victor Schoelcher, homme politique français dont une ville de Martinique porte le nom. La fabrication du sucre en Europe à partir de la betterave amorce le déclin de la richesse martiniquaise. Le 8 Mai 1902 la terrible éruption du volcan de la Montagne Pelée sur Saint-Pierre, la plus grosse catastrophe volcanique moderne, fait 30 000 morts. Fort-de-France devient alors la capitale de la Martinique. Aujourd’hui l’activité économique se partage entre l’agriculture (banane et canne à sucre), l’industrie légère et les services, et le tourisme, sur terre comme sur mer. La Martinique côté mer Côté mer, les plages, les falaises, les tombants impressionnants et les hauts fonds, les îles et les récifs coralliens se succèdent le long des 350 km de côtes. Découvrir la Martinique sur son propre bateau, et la faire découvrir à ses amis et à sa famille, est un privilège qui permet d’en explorer les plus beaux mouillages. Sur la côte sous le vent, on a le choix entre mouillages organisés ou autorisés.
Sur la côte sud, protégé par la presqu’île
bordent de petits villages de pêcheurs où
du sud-est, le mouillage de Sainte-Anne
il fait bon s’attarder le soir pour déguster
est l’un des plus prisés. Unique, avec
la cuisine locale.
des mouillages calmes et bien souvent déserts, la côte au vent est l’une des
La Martinique côté terre
plus belles des Petites Antilles, avec une
En allant vers l’intérieur de la Martinique,
multitude de mouillages tranquilles.
le terrain s’élève, vers le centre d’abord.
La plongée est une activité majeure
Les campagnes des secteurs secs, vouées
en Martinique, avec des sites pour tous
à l’élevage, contrastent avec les régions
niveaux dans une eau d’une excellente
plus humides où l’on cultive la canne à
visibilité et toujours entre 26°C et 30°C.
sucre ou la banane. Au nord, viennent
Et pour les promenades ou le farniente,
les hautes montagnes, avec les Pitons
il suffit de rejoindre le rivage en annexe
du Carbet et la Montagne Pelée, point
pour profiter de plages de rêve. Certaines
culminant de l’île à 1397 m. La forêt est très variée : tropicale humide
Le port de plaisance du Marin
sur les reliefs du nord, sèche ou semihumide dans le sud, jusqu’à la mangrove des bords de mer. Au total, on y trouve 396 espèces d’arbres. Pour découvrir une telle beauté naturelle, ses sites préservés et ses panoramas grandioses, rien de tel que la marche à pied.. Elle permet de vivre des sensations fortes et des émotions intenses, lorsqu’on traverse la forêt primaire luxuriante ou que l’on parvient enfin au sommet d’une crête et que l’on peut admirer la mer des Caraïbes, ou l’île de la Dominique qui émerge au loin… Au passage, les paysages les plus variés défilent : plages,
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 17
forêts, philodendrons de la Montagne Pelée… Beaucoup de randonnées sont balisées, comme par exemple l’ascension de la montagne Pelée ou la remontée des gorges de la Falaise. La Martinique porte bien son surnom d’« île aux fleurs » : une multitude de variétés aux formes et aux couleurs variées poussent ici et donnent à l’île une élégance incontestable, que ce soit dans la nature sauvage ou dans les parcs et jardins ouverts au public. On peut aussi aborder l’intérieur de l’île par des activités plus sportives : à cheval ou en VTT, en canoë-kayak dans la mangrove ou en canyoning dans les torrents et les cascades. Mais pour les moins aventureux, la visite de l’île en voiture est aussi un bon moyen de découvrir ses paysages, son patrimoine, son artisanat, et sa gastronomie, ainsi que de s’imprégner de la culture martiniquaise au travers de fêtes ou de scènes de la vie quotidienne. Patrimoine et Culture La Martinique est un lieu de souvenir, avec des sites historiques rappelant la vie difficile des esclaves et de nombreux festivals qui célèbrent l’apport des différents peuples qui ont forgé son histoire. C’est cette année le centième anniversaire de la naissance d’Aimé Césaire, poète et écrivain de renommée internationale et aussi homme politique engagé, fervent défenseur de la négritude, qui a marqué l’histoire de la Martinique.
Fort de France
L’économie de plantation de l’île a fortement influencé son patrimoine et sa culture. On peut visiter d’anciennes maisons
du Rhum le 15 décembre à la distillerie Saint-James, et si vous
de maître à l’architecture coloniale, et certaines distilleries
êtes encore là en février, assister au carnaval martiniquais qui
sont devenues des lieux de culture ou des musées. Les
envahit les rues de festivités colorées et musicales.
marchés traditionnels sont une autre facette de la Martinique authentique. Hauts en couleurs et activement fréquentés par
Le Nautisme en Martinique
les Martiniquais, il y flotte des parfums de vanille et d’épices
Le nautisme est très développé en Martinique, avec plus de
exotiques. On peut aussi y gouter quelques spécialités locales
3000 voiliers immatriculés, et la flotte de plaisance ne cesse
ou y découvrir l’artisanat martiniquais.
de croître. La ville du Marin est la capitale nautique de la Martinique. Le
Manger et faire la fête
port de plaisance du Marin, l’un des plus grands des Caraïbes,
On n’apprécie jamais autant un bon repas qu’après une longue
est équipé de 750 anneaux et 100 bouées. Le Marin dispose
traversée océanique. Ça tombe bien : la gastronomie locale
aussi d’un centre de carénage, Carenantilles, qui peut accueillir
abonde de plats traditionnels typiques et succulents. La
environ 200 bateaux et dispose de moyens de levage importants
Martinique produit le fameux rhum agricole, élaboré à partir du
(jusqu’à 55 T). Une vingtaine de corps de métiers dédiés à la
jus de la canne à sucre pressée, qui se boit en toutes occasions
mer y sont présents. Au total, 130 entreprises travaillent dans le
et fait partie de l’art de vivre tropical. Rhum blanc, ambré, ou
secteur du nautisme en Martinique.
vieux, il y en a pour tous les goûts et toutes les circonstances.
Il y a d’autres marinas, comme celles de Trois-Ilets, ou de
Le traditionnel Ti-Punch, préparé à base de sucre de canne, de
l’Etang Z’Abricots, en développement près de Fort-de-France, qui
citron vert et de rhum blanc, est incontournable.
disposera de 900 anneaux.
Après votre traversée de l’Atlantique vous arriverez juste au bon
Outre le Tour des Yoles Rondes, course de bateaux traditionnels
moment pour profiter de la période festive de Noël. Vous vivrez
haute en couleur, plusieurs événements nautiques se déroulent
les « chantés Nwel », chants traditionnels des Noël antillais,
ou atterrissent en Martinique, notamment la Transquadra, course
qui sont l’occasion de rencontrer les Martiniquais dans cette
en solitaire ou en double réservées aux équipages de plus de
période de partage et de convivialité. Des groupes de musique
quarante ans, ou la Transat Brest/Martinique en solitaire.
se produisent en plein air, dans les rues, et célèbrent l’esprit
Et bien, sûr à partir de cette année, il faut y ajouter l’Atlantic
de Noël avant l’heure. Vous pourrez aussi participer à la fête
Odyssey !
18 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Pascal Guiraudou
Martinique An Nou Alé !*
rainfall and higher temperatures (31°C to 32°C). Humidity is high and winds are
C
generally light. In this season, weather alled Madinina or ‘Island
share their traditions with anyone ready
systems may develop into tropical
of Flowers’ by the original
to take the time to listen.
depressions, storms and sometimes
inhabitants, the Caribs, the
Martinique lies at the heart of the Lesser
hurricanes.
name must have come to the
Antilles between Dominica to the north
From 2,500 BCE, waves of successive
attention of Christopher Colombus, who
and Saint Lucia to the south. Some 2800
Amerindian peoples arrived from the
visited the island on 15 June 1502 on his
nautical miles by boat from Lanzarote,
Orinoco basin. Thereafter the Arawaks
fourth voyage, as it subsequently evolved
the island is only nine hours by plane
settled in the island around 500 BCE.
to ‘Martinique’.
from Europe and three from Miami. The
Around the year 1000 CE the Caribs, who
For any sailor crossing the Atlantic,
population numbers 400 000 and the
originated from the northern coast of
Martinique promises a well-earned
official language is French, although
South America, travelled up the Antilles
rest and a dream-come-true cocktail
Creole is also widely spoken.
chain of islands, gradually replacing the
of delights: fantastic anchorages, the
The climate is tropical, with two distinct
populations they found there. By 1502
sun and the heat tempered by gentle
seasons. The dry season, from February
they had occupied Martinique, when
tradewinds; landscapes spectacular in
to April, enjoys brisk easterly to north
Christopher Colombus landed during his
their diversity and lush vegetation; the
easterly trade winds. The weather is
fourth voyage to the New World.
exquisite fragrances of tropical flowers
mostly sunny, rain is infrequent, and
In 1635 Richelieu dispatched colonists
and spicy flavours of Creole cuisine; and
temperatures rarely exceed 28°C to 30°C.
from France to establish a trading
last but not least a genuine welcome
The rainy season, from July to October,
monopoly and they began to cultivate
from the local inhabitants, who love to
is marked by more frequent and heavy
sugar on Martinique. King Louis XIII
* Let’s go … Allons-y ! (in créole)
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 19
Sugar cane plantations at Havre de la Trinité subsequently approved the use of slavery in the French Antilles. In 1658 the last Caribs were hunted and killed in Dominica. Sugar cane was like gold dust, so Martinique was attacked and occupied four times between 1762 and 1814 by the English Navy. Slavery was finally abolished on 22 May 1848, thanks in part to Victor Schoelcher, a French politician who now has a Martinique town named in his honour. The growth in sugar production from sugar beet in Europe contributed to the decline in Martinique’s prosperity. On the 8th of May 1902 the devastating volcanic eruption of Mount Pelée on Saint-Pierre, the worst volcanic catastrophe of modern times, caused 30,000 deaths. As a result Fort-de-France became the new capital of Martinique. Today the economy relies on agriculture (bananas and sugar cane), light industry and services, as well as sea and land-
On the southern coast, protected by the
stroll on an idyllic beach. Some are
based tourism.
south-eastern peninsula, the Sainte-Anne
bordered by little fishing villages where
anchorage is one of the most popular.
it is worth spending the evening in order
The Martinique Coastline
The windward side of the island is one of
to enjoy the local cuisine.
Along the 350 kilometres of coast, you
the most beautiful in the Lesser Antilles,
will find a succession of beaches, cliffs,
with a multitude of calm and often
Inland Martinique
impressive drop-offs and shallow areas,
deserted places to drop the anchor.
As you travel into the island’s interior,
islets and coral reefs.
Diving is an important activity in
the land rises towards the high central
Discovering Martinique on your own boat,
Martinique, with sites for all diving
region. Drier areas devoted to livestock
or sharing the discovery with friends and
abilities – the visibility is excellent and
farming contrast with parts of the island
family, is a privilege which allows you to
the water remains between a pleasant
which are humid and used for sugar and
explore the most stunning anchorages.
26°C and 30°C. For those who enjoy a
banana plantations. To the north are
On the leeward side, you can choose
leisurely walk, all you need do is step
the highest mountains, with the extinct
between a range of official anchorages.
ashore from your dinghy for a relaxing
volcanic range the Pitons du Carbet and Mount Pelée, which at 1397 metres is the
Anchorage in the bay of Saint-Pierre
island’s highest point. The forest scenery varies tremendously from the tropical humidity of the northern slopes, to the dry, semi-humid south and the coastal mangrove swamps. Nearly four hundred different species of tree have been recorded. In order to fully appreciate this natural beauty, the protected areas and grand panoramas, nothing beats walking, fully experiencing the sensation of traversing a lush primitive forest or the emotion of reaching the summit in order to admire the Caribbean sea below, with Dominica visible in the distance. From beaches to
forests and the philodendrons of Mount Pelée, many of these walks are well sign-posted, for example the summit walk to Mount Pelée and the Falaise gorges walk. Martinique truly deserves its nickname of the ‘island of flowers’: such a bewildering array of shapes and colours grow here, endowing the island with an elegance to be found in the wild as well as the parks and public gardens. The interior can also be enjoyed by a range of other sporting activities, from horseback to mountain bike, canoe rides through the mangroves or down the gorges through rapids and waterfalls. For the less adventurous, hiring a car is a great way to explore the island’s scenery, heritage, crafts and cuisine, as well as soaking up the martiniquaise culture through its numerous festivals and daily life.
Saint James rum distillery
Heritage and Culture
Sailing in Martinique
Martinique’s landscape is imbued with memory, with historic
Sailing is well established in Martinique, with more than 3000
sites recalling the difficult lives of slaves, and many festivals
boats registered locally, and the number of pleasure boats keeps
celebrating the contributions of different peoples to the island’s
on increasing.
rich history. 2013 marks the centenary of the birth of Aimé
The town of Marin is the nautical centre of Martinique. The
Césaire, the internationally renowned poet and writer who was
marina at Le Marin is one of the largest in the Caribbean, with
also a commited politician and fervent proponent of négritude,
750 pontoon berths and 100 moorings. Le Marin also has a large
a notable movement amongst francophone black intellectuals
boatyard, Carenantilles, with space for around 200 boats and
and artists in the first part of the 20th century, and who left his
a 55 ton travelift. A wide range of marine and repair services
mark on the history of his island.
are based on the site. In total, some 130 marine companies are
Martinique’s plantation economy has strongly influenced the
located in Martinique.
island’s heritage and culture. You can visit former plantation
There are other marinas on the island, such as Trois-Ilets, or
owners’ mansions, as well as distilleries that have been converted
l’Etang Z’Abricots, which is being developed close to Fort-de-
into cultural centres or museums. The traditional markets are
France, with a projected total of 900 berths.
another expression of the ‘authentic’ Martinique. These are full
As well as the Tour des Yoles Rondes, a vintage boat race, various
of local colour and popular with the Martiniquais themselves; a
nautical events take place in Martinique or make the island their
place to imbibe the scents of exotic spices and delicious vanilla
destination, most notably the Transquadra, a race reserved for
fragrances. Here you can sample local specialities and discover
single or double-handers more than 40 years old, and the single-
martiniquais crafts.
handed Transat Brest/Martinique. And of course, this year, we mustn’t forget to add – the Atlantic
Eating and Making Merry
Odyssey !
A good meal is never more appreciated than after a long ocean crossing. It’s a good thing then that the local cuisine is rich in traditional delicious dishes. Not to mention the island’s famous rum, distilled from the juice of the sugar cane, which is drunk on all occasions and is an integral part of the tropical art de vivre. Rum may be white, golden, or aged – there is a flavour for everyone and for every circumstance. The traditional Ti-Punch, prepared with sugar cane juice, limes and white rum, is a must. After your Atlantic crossing you will arrive just in time to relish the Christmas festive season. Enjoy the “chantés Nwel”, as local people gather together to sing these traditional Antilles Christmas songs. Groups of musicians perform outside, in the streets, celebrating the arrival of Christmas. You can also take part in the fête du Rhum on the 15 December at the Saint-James distillery… and if you are still there in February, the Martinique Carnival takes over the streets with colour and music. Marina Z’Abricots Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 21
Atlantic Odyssey2
The islands of La Palma and Grenada could not be more different, the former a massive bloc of volcanic rock soaring
On the principle that small is beautiful,
above the clouds, the latter a lush tropical
we have chosen two boutique marinas
paradise
on the two sides of the Atlantic for the
committed suicide en masse when their
benefit of those who prefer to cross the
earthly Garden of Even was snatched
pond after the Christmas and New Year
away from them. Both islands will be
festivities are over. Thus, at a stroke, the
featured in detail in the next edition
Atlantic Odyssey had four hosts, and
of the Blue Planet Log, but here is a
thus should be correctly called Atlantic
foretaste of what expects those who will
Odyssey2.
subscribe to the Atlantic Odyssey2.
La Palma I
whose
native
inhabitants
The Pretty Island
n contrast to the arid volcanic
memory. Capturing the humidity from the
the type of street lights, have made this
landscape of Lanzarote, the most
trade winds the rich volcanic soil is very
observatory important.
westerly island in the Canaries, La
fertile, producing a strong wine and the
La Palma has long been a favourite
Palma, is the greenest and has been
sought after small but very tasty bananas.
departure point for sailors on their
christened “La Isla Bonita�, the pretty
La Palma has the highest ratio of altitude
Atlantic crossing, not only because of its
island. Even so it is still volcanic in nature
to area of any island in the world, rising
more westerly position, but also due to
and boasts the largest volcanic crater
to over 2400 m at its highest point. Close
the charm of its capital Santa Cruz de
in the world, the Caldera de Taburiente,
to the top are clustered the many domes
la Palma. Regarded as one of the most
some 27 km in circumference. This is
and telescopes of the International
pleasant towns in the Canaries with
now extinct and its walls are covered
Astrophysical Observatory, a visit to
its pretty houses, cobbled main street
with many shades of greenery. A chain of
which has been the highlight of previous
and bustling market, the new La Palma
extinct volcanoes runs down the spine
sailing events. Clear skies, an unpolluted
Marina in the centre of the town will
of the island to the south where there
atmosphere due to no large industry
undoubtedly add to its popularity among
have been several eruptions within living
on the island and even restrictions on
the cruising community.
T
St George’s Harbour he most southerly of the Windward Islands, Grenada is a beautiful island with lush mountains and silvery beaches. Renowned for its great variety of spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, mace and cloves,
Grenada is proud of its epithet as the Spice Island. The attractive
capital St George’s is built around a fine natural harbour.
Grenada The Spice Island
The Caribs who originally lived on Grenada called their home Camerhogue, then the Spanish gave it the name of Granada after the town in Spain. Carib hostility delayed the European invasion, but finally the French settled and the Caribs were exterminated. The country was ceded to Britain in 1763 and full independence granted in 1974. English is the main language but some French patois is still spoken. The climate is tropical and the hurricane season lasts from June to November. Although most hurricanes pass to the north of the island, on rare occasions the island has been hit, as happened in September 2004 when Hurricane Ivan destroyed much of the island’s infrastructure. The southern part of the island has many deep inlets both on the protected western side as well as on the eastern windward coast. Several marinas are located in this area and the best facilities are also concentrated here. Le Phare Bleu Marina is located in Calivigny Bay. Situated conveniently close to the Grenadines, with which it is linked by its smaller sisters, Carriacou and Petit Martinique, Grenada is the turning point for yachts cruising down the chain of the Windward Islands.
Le Phare Bleu Marina
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 23
Jimmy Cornell
Community projects along the way
O
Making water, making friends in San Bas
n a flight to Annapolis last
of my voyaging, as journalist I had taken
engine to supplying clean water from a
October, where Doina and
an interest in the life and preoccupations
watermaker, or handing out antimalarial
I had been invited to take
of the people in the places we visited.
tablets or antibiotics, when these were
part in the Cruising World
It started in the Caribbean where my
not available.
program of seminars, I read
reports and interviews on the traditions,
All these actions were in response to
an article about the effects of climate
folk tales, music and dances, that had
specific requests, and identifying such
change on the oceans, and how the rapid
been kept alive in the islands, were
needs in advance is almost impossible.
acidification caused by the absorption of
broadcast by the BBC World Service “Good
Also, we have to be very careful not
carbon dioxide will eventually lead to
Morning Africa” programme. In the South
to be patronising and to respect the
the death of the oceans and ultimately
Pacific, my reports on community projects
communities that accept us as their
of human civilization. I realised that
on the BBC programme “Hello Tomorrow”
guests. Helping people is a delicate
15 years had gone by since a fleet of
were rebroadcast by radio stations in
matter, aid-fatigue is now a widespread
32 boats had set off from Lisbon to carry
every English speaking country that we
phenomenon, so we must avoid making
around the message of the Expo 98
visited… from reporting on the work of
the mistakes of others. In fact, there
world exhibition “The oceans, a heritage
the Potato Institute in the High Andes,
is much we can learn from these
for the future”. In the intervening years
to the project of using methane gas
communities, for example in the way
the situation has gone from bad to worse
collected from a pig farm to light the
they care for the elderly, weak or disabled
and almost nothing had been done to
streets of a Tongan village… My work for
in their midst. As one village elder
save the oceans and implicitly the planet.
the magazine Pacific Islands Monthly, and
remarked to a couple keen to adopt a
I turned to Doina and said; “Don’t you
the daily programme broadcast by Radio
child from a Polynesian village, “We have
think that we should resurrect that
New Zealand to the islands, culminated
no unwanted children, all our children
message and carry it around the world
in official invitations to attend the
are loved and cared for, however they
once again?”
independence celebrations of the Ellice
came to be born”.
Her response was instantaneous: “Yes, do
Islands (Tuvalu) and the Gilbert Islands
The islands, such as Tokelau featured
it, because if you don’t, no one else will!”
(Kiribati). I continued my journalistic
in the last issue, and the Andamans,
So it came to pass that a dozen years after
work on my subsequent voyages, and
which are featured here, are making a
I had promised Gwenda that my career of
made a point of renewing on every
great effort to deal with the problems of
sailing events organiser was over and
occasion the contacts and friendships I
climate change that our lifestyles in the
done with, I decided to put retirement
had forged over the years.
developed nations have exacerbated. It is
on hold once again and launch the Blue
Some participants in the Blue Planet
up to all of us to help when and where
Planet Odyssey. From the very beginning
Odyssey have expressed an interest
we can, as we most certainly will. We have
I made it very clear that this was not to
in what the community projects will
such an impressive range of skills among
be just another round the world rally,
be as they have not been covered as
our participants that I am convinced that
but an event with a higher purpose,
much as the scientific and educational
we shall have plenty of opportunities to
that of raising awareness of climate
programs. This is because it is almost
put them to good use. Emily’s article on
change, and especially its effects on
impossible to identify the ways in which
dealing with waste is a perfect example
remote island communities. I knew some
we can help before we actually arrive in
and a good place to start.
of those communities very well as I had
a community. Almost all the examples
visited them on more than one occasion
I quote above arose during my actual
during my many years of vagabonding
visit to the place in question. I can
on the oceans. My rapport with local
think of many other examples when
communities was not just personal, but
sailors have helped communities or
also professional, as from the very start
people in need, from fixing an outboard
24 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Farewell water organ performance in Gaua, Vanuatu
Denis Giles – Andaman Chronicle
The Andaman
and Nicobar Islands
L
ocated approximately 1200 km
Island, whose beaches are rated among
(700 miles) east of the Indian
the best in the world. Northeast of
mainland, of which they form
Ritchie’s Archipelago are two islands of
a political entity, the Andaman
volcanic origin, Narcondam and Barren
and Nicobar Islands are becoming a
Island (India’s only active volcano).
new cruising destination for yachts. At
The climate is tropical, always warm
present an average of 100 yachts visit
with a pleasant sea-breeze. The twice
the islands annually. Although there are
yearly rainy season is under the influence
some official constraints, there seems to
of southwest monsoon from mid-May
be an eagerness to promote yachting in
to September, and northeast monsoon
Andamans. There are plenty of natural
from November to January. There is no
harbours in the islands but at present
extreme climate except the rains and
yachts are only allowed in certain places
tropical storms in late summer. There is
in the Andamans, while the Nicobar
little wind or calms only from January to
Islands are completely out of bounds for
April and to some extent in October.
foreigners, being a tribal reserve.
The island chain is the home of six
The territory lies 150 km (93 miles) north
aboriginal tribes, four in the Andaman
of Aceh in Indonesia and is separated
Islands and two in the Nicobars, known
from Thailand and Burma by the Andaman
to have settled in the islands more than
Sea. It comprises two island groups,
60,000 years ago. Their numbers cannot
the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar
be assessed accurately as the authorities
Islands, separated by the 10° N parallel,
attempt to keep contacts with some
with the Andamans to the north of this
of the tribal areas to the minimum.
latitude, and the Nicobars to the south.
Some 400,000 Indian migrants make up
There are 325 islands in the Andamans
the rest of the population. Tourism and
and 24 in the Nicobars, but only 34
fishery are the only source of revenue
islands are permanently inhabited, the
generation in the islands. For the rest
rest being designated forest, biosphere
of the supplies, the islands are totally
and tribal reserves.
dependent on mainland India. Tourism is
The territory’s capital is the Andamanese
developing fast in the islands. Thousands
town of Port Blair. Northeast of Port Blair
of tourists, both foreigners and Indians
in Ritchie’s Archipelago lies Havelock
visit the islands each year. The year 2012
The island chain is the home of six aboriginal tribes, settled more than 60,000 years ago
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 25
saw 256,000 visitors, compared to 218,000 in 2011. The number of foreign tourists has grown from 13,692 in 2009 to 17,538 in 2012. With a vast Exclusive Economic Zone , the islands have a great potential in fishery , but this has not yet been achieved due to the absence of modernized fishing vessels and techniques. It is a common saying in the islands that fishes die a natural death as there is as yet no large scale fishing, but that was proved wrong when Greenpeace exposed that fact that foreign poachers especially from Burma are involved in poaching the marine wealth of the islands, which goes unnoticed. Climate change has affected the world and the Andaman & Nicobars are not an exception. Fortunately with 86% forest cover (reserved areas) there is not much visible change. There are various agencies and government institutions which have been conducting studies on different topics, observing the patterns of fruiting, sea level, agriculture, but there are no exclusive studies done on the topic of climate change. Mr. Rishikesh, Senior Scientific Officer, Department of Science & Technology, Andaman & Nicobar Administration, belongs to a family of migrants settled in the islands for five decades. He did his schooling in the islands and is well versed with the effects and changes in the climate of the islands. In an interview for the Blue Planet Log, Mr. Rishikesh explained that since 86% of the islands are under forest cover there is not much human interference and activities that can damage the environment. The islands can be considered as one of the biggest “carbon sinks” due to this vast forest cover. According to Mr. Rishikesh, there is no visible effect of global warming, nor a rise in the sea water level, although he accepts the fact that there are no
been highlighted by environment lovers and researchers. Here
relevant records to refer to. Out of his personal experience he
Mr. Rishikesh stressed that the plastic seen on the shoreline is
agrees that there has been a change in the rainfall pattern and
not generated solely by the islanders. Since the Nicobars are
temperature unlike earlier days when he was in school. He says
very close to an international shipping route, the waste being
that the temperature in some months goes beyond 34 degree
dumped by passing ships accumulates in the inhabited as well
Celsius, which was not observed earlier.
as uninhabited islands born by the ocean currents. The Indian
The islands do not have big industries that can contribute
Coast Guard, which is on continuous surveillance around the
to pollution and climate change except for the generating
islands, reports on such pollution, and cleaning operations have
plant that supplies electricity to all inhabited islands. But Mr.
been undertaken to clear it from time to time.
Rishikesh points out that this does not have much effect on
Mr Manish Chandi, a researcher with the Andaman & Nicobar
the environment as unleaded refined diesel is used to generate
Environment Team (ANET), who has been working in the islands
power. The only major factor contributing to pollution in the
since 1995 dealing with environment, ecology and tribal
islands is the increasing number of vehicles, especially in Port
issues, also agreed to be interviewed for the Blue Planet
Blair. Uncontrolled population growth in the islands is another
Log. He accepts that global warming has not left out the Andaman
factor that affects the environment, he said. As the population
& Nicobar Islands. From his experience, he has observed various
increases, human activities increases manifold, causing concern.
changes in the weather pattern, late flowering and migration of
Waste generation is also a cause of concern in the islands.
birds, which are indicators of climate change. Mr. Manish agrees
Although there are waste disposal units available in Port Blair,
that there is no base line data available to assess the direct
the remote inhabited areas do not have such systems in place.
impact of climate change in the islands. He says that it is in fact
Lack of awareness and techniques of proper waste disposal is
difficult to establish the rise in water level, the reason being
a concern in such places. He accepts the fact that no proper
the emergence and submergence of islands after the tsunami
study is done in this regard and therefore no proper data is
of 2004. That tsunami caused widespread devastation in the
available. Accumulation of plastic waste on the coasts has
Andaman & Nicobar Islands, and left 2,000 dead and 40,000
26 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Rishikesh Sinha
people homeless. However, while newer
Regarding climate change, Mr Manish
settlers suffered the greatest casualties,
concluded that there is need for a
most of the aboriginal people survived
proper study on the state of the climate
because oral traditions passed down
and its effects on the Andaman and
from previous generations warned them
Nicobar Islands.
to seek shelter on high land from the large waves that follow a strong large earthquake.
Manish Chandi
There is yet no base line data available to assess the direct impact of climate change in the islands” Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 27
Emily Penn
TALKING TRASH Tips for dealing with waste at sea Ideas for provisioning ♦ Buying in bulk or wholesale means your products come with less, or even no packaging – it’s cheaper too! ♦ Where possible buy packaging that can be reused, e.g. a glass jar is better than single-use plastic. ♦ Remove all packaging before you leave port and dispose of it at a proper waste management facility
(removing cardboard also helps prevent cockroaches).
♦ Re-store foodstuffs (cereal, rice, pasta) into storage bins or containers. ♦ For more practical daily use, decant bulk-buy toiletries and cleaning products into smaller containers you use again and again. ♦ Where possible buy base ingredients and bake from scratch instead of buying prepared food like biscuits, pastries and some
main meals (saves on packaging, space on board and money).
When at sea ♦ Nothing goes overboard, except for organics over 12 miles from land. If you’ve got space to bring it on in the first place,
then you should have space to take it home.
♦ In your organics bin you can include all food scraps apart from cooking oil – the smaller the pieces the better. This can only go over the side when 12 miles or more from land. ♦ Reuse any glass/tin containers. These can be given away as presents; they are like GOLD in remote communities! ♦ Rinse any trash in salt water and compress as much as possible. ♦ To avoid smells through the boat store waste in an airtight compartment. ♦ Store used batteries in an airtight container and dispose of them properly ashore. Many supermarkets have a battery disposal box. ♦ Keep recyclables separate (any plastic marked with 1 or 2; glass & metal, paper and cardboard). Note: Plastic bags
and film are not recyclable.
More details on waste disposal at sea can be found in the Simplified Overview of the Discharge Provisions of the Revised MARPOL ANNEX V on www.imo.org.
28 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
When reaching land ♦ Research what waste management/ recycling system exists where you land. If inadequate facilities exist, keep waste on board. ♦ Even if locals offer to take your rubbish/garbage, you should check out where it’s going. For example, in the Maldives,
the word for ‘waste dump’ and ‘beach’ are identical!
♦ If there is landfill, check out what this actually means. If it’s a pile of trash, on unprotected ground on a low-lying coral atoll,
this is not adequate and is likely to be leaching toxins into the ocean.
♦ DO NOT dump rubbish in a street bin or burn it on the beach. Burning plastic on an open fire at much lower heat than in a proper
incinerator produces nasty dioxins, which are known carcinogens and hormone disrupters, and are no good for our bodies.
The bigger picture – plastic in our oceans Everything runs downhill to the ocean. Any plastic not properly disposed of is likely to end up in a gyre, a rotating system
of ocean currents found between 20 and 40 degrees north and south of the equator. There is currently 73.9 million pounds
(33,500 metric tons) of plastic spread throughout the world’s gyres.
Once floating in the ocean, plastic photodegrades when UV light breaks it down into smaller pieces, but plastic
DOES NOT biodegrade and goes back into the natural cycle.
Big pieces of plastic can cause harm to animals: it is stated that a million seabirds and 100,000 marine mammals
die each year from getting tangled up in or eating plastic. These include albatross, whales and seals.
Small bits of plastic get mistaken for food, and fish and other animals end up eating it. While not many incidences
have been recorded of fish actually dying from eating plastic, what is a greater concern is the chemical build up as
toxins have the potential to biomagnify as they move up the food chain.
Not all trash stays in a gyre. Islands are like natural nets. Ocean debris often washes up on shores placing greater strain
on island waste management systems (see report on the Nicobar Islands).
Emily Penn has a degree in Sustainable Architecture from Cambridge University. She was the first woman and youngest person to be
awarded the international Yachtmaster of the Year. She has set up a waste management system and environmental education program in
Tonga’s Ha’apai Islands. At present she is director of the Global Organisation Pangaea Explorations; taking scientists, filmmakers,
educators and journalists to the most remote parts of our planet. www.emilypenn.co.uk and www.panexplore.com
Plastic is a material designed to last forever, but we use it for products that are designed to be used once and thrown away”
A developing partnership with
JCOMMOPS
We need volunteer vessels to deploy autonomous instruments
I
t may be a bit of a mouthful,
of the scientific programs supported by
yachts
but what JCOMMOPS is all about
JCOMMOPS.
direction, barometric pressure, air and
is that of a platform support
“The participating sailors could help
sea temperature, all that needs to be
have
for
wind
speed
and
centre of the joint technical
us in many ways and they would
done is to install the free software and
commission (JCOMM) of the World
help themselves at the same time.
spend 5 minutes per day to compile a
Meteorological
(WMO)
Meteorological data could be transmitted
report. There is no obligation to do this.
and Intergovernmental Oceanographic
free of charge from the sailors to shore,
But if it is done, all those friends and
Commission (IOC) of UNESCO. This body of
the data would be quality-checked
family at home can not only follow your
technical experts provides international
immediately and then distributed to the
position, but also see on the internet
coordination
of
Organization
oceanographic and
worldwide meteorological community –
what the weather is like where the fleet
marine meteorological observing, data
again free of charge. That means that
is currently sailing.”
management and services, combining the
such data would then be used in weather
expertise, technology and capabilities of
forecasting. In some parts of the world
the meteorological and oceanographic
the Blue Planet Odyssey yachts will pass
communities.
through areas where almost no in-situ
We have been contacted by Martin Kramp,
data exist. The data will thus improve the
the recently appointed ship coordinator
potential to increase the quality of the
at JCOMMOPS, regarding the Blue Planet
weather bulletins significantly!”
Odyssey scientific program. Martin has
“How does it work? With a satellite
some precise ideas on how the Blue
communication system and a computer
Planet Odyssey could contribute to some
onboard, and the instruments the Martin Kramp
30 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Another suggestion springs from discussions held with NOAA
exceptional datasets”.
on data gathering at sea. “We need volunteer vessels to deploy
Those successful results emboldened Martin to stress at
autonomous instruments in all ocean areas, and in particular
scientific congresses, meetings and conferences held in recent
where no commercial shipping routes transit”, Martin specified.
years why the sailing community should be encouraged to play
“These instruments could be the so-called Argo floats, which
an important role in data collection.
create salinity profiles from the surface to depths of up to
This is one idea Martin is keen to pursue with the Blue Planet
2000m. Or drifter buoys, which take measurements only at
Odyssey program. “Systems like the one we designed for racing
the surface”. The procedure and the size of the instruments
yachts could also be used on cruising yachts, and the resulting
are similar. Once at the appropriate position, the instrument is
data would be very valuable. Those of you who might be
deployed in the water and… that’s it. With a weight of around 20
interested in installing such a system, please let us know. We
kg, and the size of two diving tanks, most yachts should be able
are very enthusiastic about this developing partnership”, Martin
to find place to stow such a float.”
concluded.
Martin comes from a sailing background in both cruising and
Details of our cooperation with JCOMMOPS will be defined in
racing yachts. He first crossed the Atlantic in the nineties with
the upcoming months and a pilot project is planned within the
the ARC and so knows the character of ocean rallies. After
Atlantic Odyssey in November 2013. We are happy and proud to
university Martin decided to focus on a professional career
have such an important partner participating in the Blue Planet
in sailing. He became the project manager and skipper of
Odyssey scientific program.
Aldebaran, a modified OVNI 43, which was equipped with a science laboratory and communications studio, owned by the German marine research and broadcast company Aldebaran. Later on he became the manager of the OceanoScientific Programme, which developed fully automated scientific instruments to be used on racing yachts. “Only a few commercial and research vessels sail around Antarctica, whereas the round-the-world races sail there regularly, and data from that area is very important for scientists”, Martin explains. “The implementation was very difficult because of onboard conditions, with permanent shocks, humidity, limited energy and space, and all on a platform which often surfs at great speed or crashes through the waves. These IMOCA 60 carbon racing yachts, which participate in the Vendée Globe or Barcelona World Race, shorthanded and non-stop, have canting keels. Sailing upwind, these keels are often almost at the surface on the windward side, and due to hydrodynamic conditions cannot be used to suck water samples into the vessel. Additionally, water should always be in
The crew of Lady Amber prepares an Argo deployment. Floats come
motion in the system, to avoid bio-fouling during the long times
in different sizes, this one being one of the largest, with a weight of
at sea. The development of an efficient flow-through system for
around 25 kg. 3500 Argo floats have been deployed in the oceans
ocean sensors was a real challenge. “We managed to realize a
but in many areas the target density of 100% has not yet been
stable and bubble-free waterflow, which is crucial to obtaining
achieved. Around 800 new floats must be deployed every year to
good data quality”, Martin added. “Against all expectations, we
keep the array alive, at a float lifetime of approximately 4 to 5 years.
not only succeeded, we also managed to gather wide-spread
In some areas the Blue Planet Odyssey will sail through there is not
parameters from both ocean and atmosphere, thus creating
a single float is in the water.
Blue Planet Odyssey science projects Blue Planet Odyssey participants are invited to take part in the following scientific data gathering projects in partnership with scientists around the world: ♦ JCOMMOPS (the joint technical commission of the World Meteorological Organization and Intergovernmental Oceanographic
Commission of UNESCO). Participants will send back automated meteorological data and deploy Argo floats.
♦ NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Participants will deploy drifter buoys in areas not frequented by
commercial shipping to gather information on ocean currents, sea surface temperature, atmospheric pressure, winds and salinity.
♦ Observations of sea birds and other marine wildlife for Cornell University’s Ornithology eBird database. ♦ Logging of marine debris for NOAA’s marine debris program. ♦ The global marine plankton study run by Plymouth University, UK, gathering data using the Secchi disk and mobile phone app.
emergencies - a very important advantage in remote locations. HF radios can also Steven Bowden
be used to make calls to telephones
Do I really need a
anywhere in the world. This technique involves contacting a commercial shore
HF SSB Radio?
service provider for a fee. Many ham
E
communications. This refers to the ability
operators provide this service for free. The most popular reason for the proliferation of HF radio is digital
very day in my business I get
transmitted at an angle from one point
to send and receive digital data through
asked the same question: do I
to another. These waves then reflect or
a wireless email service provider such
really need a High Frequency
refract back to earth from layers of ionized
as low cost SailMail or the free ham
(HF) Single Sideband (SSB)
atoms in the atmosphere. This skip effect
service Winlink. This capability is based
radio for long range cruising? Why not
allows long range transmission beyond
on the SCS Pactor radio modem. A sender
just use a satellite phone? Why do most
the horizon and even globally. While
creates an email in a software program
long range cruisers use a 100 year old
propagation can be affected by various
called AirMail. This digital data is
radio technology? The answer is yes,
atmospheric conditions, HF radio remains
converted to analog by the modem, then
you do indeed need this cost effective,
a consistently reliable performer in a
transmitted by the HF radio to a shore
reliable and amazingly versatile method
surprising variety of conditions.
station. This station receives the analog
of long range communication.
Cruising is a community; HF radio
data, a modem converts it to digital and
Unlike marine Very High Frequency
connects you to this community in the
sends it to the email address anywhere in
(VHF) Frequency Modulation (FM) radio,
form of cruising nets, huge wireless
the world. Thousands of cruisers, racers,
which uses a short range, line of sight
‘party lines’ that allow you to share news
commercial and military users have made
signal, the reason HF radio works so
and information. Many cruisers develop
HF radio email a reliable standard for
well for long distance cruising is that
lifelong friendships based on ‘keeping in
over 14 years.
it uses the phenomenon of skywave
touch’ over HF radio. This ‘one to many’
A great way to enhance your HF radio
or ‘skip’ propagation. This refers to
communication method means that you
knowledge,
the characteristics of electromagnetic
can connect to the even larger worldwide
frequencies in your HF radio, is to obtain
radiation, we call radio waves, when
amateur or ham radio community in
an amateur or ham license. This consists
32 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
and
access
restricted
of studying a pool of questions on subjects such as propagation, antennas, RF safety, and the radio regulations of the government granting the license. Licenses are recognized in most countries. In the US, a General Class license is required to access Winlink for worldwide free email service. No commercial messages are allowed on ham bands. Weather knowledge is a religion for long range cruising. In order to be self reliant forecasters, cruising sailors must have access to weather data that is broadcast worldwide by various government weather services for free. These broadcasts include weather fax (wxfax), navigational text (navtex), text (telex) and GRIdded Binary files (GRIB) as well as voice broadcasts. Weather reports or products are broadcast at regular intervals as long range HF radio waves and can be easily converted to digital data by demodulators, computer sound
The recent addition of the proven,
Lee
cards or radio modems and displayed as
worldwide Digital Selective Calling
Meteorologist for the National Weather
graphics and text by computer software.
(DSC) to HF radio has gone a long
Service, USCG approved STCW Instructor:
GRIBs are sent as free emails and are
way to enhance its safety. This system
“Not by a long shot. An essential method
based on computer models of current
allows you to broadcast an emergency
for gathering weather data worldwide.
and future wind conditions. Weather
digital signal by pushing a button. This
Don’t leave home without it!”
routers can also be accessed by HF radio.
message contains information about your
Many cruisers enjoy listening to their
vessel, the nature of your emergency
Eric
favorite news, sports and entertainment
and the Global Positioning System (GPS)
Electronics, North American
broadcasts on the British Broadcasting
coordinates. In addition, an ‘individual
distributor and supplier of electronics to
Corporation (BBC) and Voice of America
calling’ feature of DSC allows you to
the America’s Cup: “By all measures, the
(VOA) worldwide services as well as
signal other vessels if you have their
advantages of SSB are alive and well and
a proliferation of shortwave programs
Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI)
not going away any time soon.”
across the radio spectrum.
number. This number is broadcast on the
Safety is obviously the most important
global standard Automatic Information
Links:
reason for having a HF radio on your boat.
System (AIS) by all commercial vessels.
SailMail http://www.sailmail.com/
A standard for long range emergency
Unlike the DSC system on marine VHF
Winlink http://www.winlink.org/
communication, marine HF radio has a
FM radios, which has about a 20 nautical
ShipCom http://www.shipcom.com/
serious 150 watts of power to get your
mile range, HF DSC is long range and
SCS Pactor http://www.scs-ptc.com/
message out and someone is always
therefore can reach a larger number of
listening. Unlike the very important
commercial or recreational vessels from
Steven Bowden and Pamela House own
Emergency Position-Indicating Radio
remote locations.
SeaTech
Beacons (EPIRBs), voice communications
Despite the overwhelming evidence that
which sells navigation, communication and
over HF radio can access emergency
HF radio is a vital communications tool,
weather systems for marine computers.
medical services or request medical
some people think they are past their
SeaTech Systems is the official supplier of
assistance. Some emergencies aren’t life
prime. I asked a variety of marine industry
communications systems to the Blue Planet
threatening and a sailor can use the
experts, cruising authors and instructors
Odyssey.
HF radio to summon help from fellow
the question, “Is HF SSB Radio obsolete?”
cruisers or assistance from maritime
and here are their opinions:
authorities in nearby countries.
Chesneau,
Steinberg
Systems
former
owner
of
Senior
Farallon Pactor
(www.sea-tech.com)
Next issue: Is a Satellite Phone Right for Me?
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 33
Round the world rally yachts in Port Sudan
John Ellis
Managing
Sailing Events
M
the Red Sea and much of the fleet were reliant on getting fuel in Port Sudan. The baksheesh problem was not the real issue. There simply was no fuel. There was no fuel dock and due to general fuel
anaging global sailing
a toothbrush, razor and a polo shirt of
rationing, it was forbidden for foreigners
events on the ground
any colour. However, my local contact
to buy fuel in jerry cans from the petrol
creates a unique set of
bought me two splendid jallabiyahs (the
stations. So I got on the SSB radio and
challenges
often
traditional Sudanese robes), so when the
talked to the fleet to get the quantity of
require flexible or unorthodox solutions.
yachts arrived, I was sporting a scratchy
fuel required by each skipper. After 48
On a boat, duct tape and a hammer will
beard and was resplendent in my fine
hours of nocturnal negotiations with a
fix a surprising amount of problems. As
robes…. and most participants thought I
variety of agents, I managed to charter
event organisers, we also use a lot of
had gone quite mad.
a fuel tanker to deliver fuel directly to
metaphorical duct tape, occasionally the
Our stopover coincided with Ramadan
the dock. The boats started to arrive and
hammer and also liberal applications of
and the daytime temperature was often
we had a nervous few days wondering if
WD-40.
over 40 C, so the locals sensibly slept
the tanker would turn up. Thankfully it
during the day and got up at sunset. This
did and one by one the yachts came to
The Pink Shirt
meant I would get a knock on my hotel
the dock and got the fuel they required.
One of the most difficult challenges I
room door at 3 am to go to meetings.
The good news was that the fuel was
faced seemed very simple on the surface.
These meetings involved immigration,
clean and I also managed to get my pink
I needed to arrange fuel for the fleet. In
customs, port authority and the tourism
shirt laundered in time to fly to Safaga in
most places this is very straightforward,
office and would go on for hours, mostly
Egypt to greet the fleet once more.
but we were in Port Sudan. The fleet
in Arabic. Essentially, the meetings were
had left from Djibouti and I had flown
all about the amount of baksheesh that
Jimmy’s not at all portable SSB
ahead to Port Sudan via Jeddah in Saudi
could be extorted from me and part of
Jimmy is a man of great vision and has
Arabia. Unfortunately, my luggage never
the process was to eliminate the number
had some amazing ideas. Equipping the
arrived and all I had were the clothes I
of people involved in each transaction
rally support team with a SSB radio was
stood in, khaki pants and a very bright
and haggle relentlessly until an amount
definitely not one of them. In theory it was
pink polo shirt. A lot has been said about
was agreed.
great, but in reality far from it. In all our
my dubious choice of a pink shirt, which
But my focus had to be on getting fuel.
global events there is a twice daily roll call,
certainly stood out in the markets of
It had been a windless leg from Djibouti
run from one of the boats in the fleet. The
Port Sudan, where I searched in vain for
and there was still a long way to go up
boat taking the roll call would then send
that
34 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
on the positions and other news to the
at the same time
rally support team ashore. On the ground
for an immediate
we needed to be able to communicate
response. Within the
with the fleet and Jimmy invested in the
fleet, there is always
best SSB available at the time.
a myriad of experts
Our SSB radio was carried in an oversize
and a real sense of
briefcase, together with earth cables and
community
60 metres of copper antennae cable. It
wants to help their
weighed around 23 kilos and I lugged
fellow sailors. Over
this briefcase through countless airports
the years help over
as hand luggage desperately pretending
the SSB radio has
it was as light as a feather. This was
included emergency
clearly before 9/11 as I would imagine
bilge pump operation, electronic repairs,
Alfredo and his expensive cheese
today that my “portable” SSB would set
arranging a mid-ocean rendezvous to
Sometimes, it’s the little things that
off all the alarms.
transfer two young Italians to help
count. My good friend Alfredo was a
Once I arrived at the destination port, I
an elderly couple who that had lost their
connoisseur of cheese and had a very
had to make sure that I got a room on the
autopilot and were exhausted. I was
serious dilemma. He was about to
top floor of the hotel. Then I had to get
involved in an emergency on board
make landfall in Australia and had a
permission to go on the roof and set up
where
through
special cheese. For those not familiar
my 60 metres of antennae and somehow
on our SSB to shore based medical
with Australian quarantine restrictions,
find a way to drop a cable down through
advice to fix a dislocated shoulder
it is one of the most prohibitive in the
my hotel window to connect with the
On a more serious note, in the first round
world and the cheese was likely to be
SSB, which I would usually earth to the
the world rally in 1992, all the yachts
destroyed. He implored me to talk to the
pipes in the bathroom.
kept their SSB radios open 24 hours a
quarantine service to see if something
The problem was that it didn’t really
day, while going up the Red Sea. One
could be done. Much to my surprise, the
work. Sometimes we would be lucky in
of the yachts disregarded the sailing
quarantine service agreed that Alfredo
the lower frequencies when the boats
instructions and strayed too close to
could keep his cheese if it was placed in
were fairly close. We persevered for a
the coast of Eritrea and was confronted
a special box, sealed with tamper proof
long time, but I found the backup plan
by a gunboat. Every boat in the fleet
tape and placed in his fridge. As organiser
of using the SSB on a yacht that was
heard the blow by blow account over the
I was personally responsible for the
already in port a far simpler and effective
SSB of how the events unfolded as one
future export of the cheese. Alfredo had
solution.
of the crew members was transmitting
a cheese waiver document, which he
Fast forward 20 years and the SSB is
continuously. Shots were fired over their
had to present at every port between
still very much a part of rally life. Some
bow and they were forced to follow
Cairns and Darwin, where a quarantine
people have queried the relevance or
the gunboat into port. It was some
officer would visit the boat, inspect the
necessity of a SSB radio, when yacht
4 hours later that we heard the final
cheese box and add his or her comments
communications
so
transmission, indicating that they were in
to the document. On the passage up to
dramatically with email, sat phones etc.
port and being boarded. Within that four
Thursday Island he was buzzed by one of
But the SSB still plays a vital role. Apart
hour period the rally support team had
the border patrol planes. After confirming
from the roll calls, yachts would set
already made contact with officials at
his identity, the pilot responded, “Oh,
up radio skeds between 2, 3 or more
the highest level in the US and the UK, as
you’re the guy with the cheese.” Alfredo
yachts to analyse and discuss weather
it was a British boat with American and
and his, by now, very famous cheese
forecasts, which fishing lures were
British crew. Due to immediate pressure
eventually departed Darwin for Bali, and
bringing in the big ones or were there
from the US and UK governments, the
I imagine that cheese never tasted so
possibly any more banana recipes. During
yacht and her crew were not harmed
good. Alfredo had the cheese waiver form
the cruising periods, the radio skeds
and free to leave some 60 hours later.
framed as a tribute to the bureaucrats
continued as yachts arranged rendezvous
During those 60 hours, yachts in the fleet
that sometimes go the extra mile.
and discussed the best anchorages.
maintained a permanent listening watch
However, the most important aspect is
on SSB and called the seized yacht every
the safety element. With a twice daily roll
2 hours. Our very first joyous contact that
call, a yacht in distress knows that they
they were safe was over the SSB radio as
can reach out to every yacht in the fleet
they left port to rejoin the fleet.
have
improved
we
that
were
The travelling radio
patched
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 35
Pablo Aguilera’s goal is to operate at sea without the need to use fossil fuels for recharging the batteries
Paul Landino
Power for
Offshore
Shaun Dolk (left) with Pablo Aguilera and Dr Rick Lumpkin of NOAA at the wheel of Pablo’s Odyssea
L
Led lights The first recommendation was to replace all incandescent bulbs on board with their LED equivalent. This included not only the cabin
lights but masthead, running lights, etc. Switching to LED bulbs will reduce the lighting energy load by 75%. The additional benefits are a lower heat load and lower maintenance, as these bulbs last at least four times longer than the incandescent counterpart, making their replacement a rare occurrence.
H Cruising
How much energy is being consumed? In order to determine what types and sizes of renewable energy equipment (solar, wind or hydro generators) should be considered, we had
to examine how much electricity will be used on a daily basis. This was done by reviewing each piece of equipment, estimating the amount of hours of operation and multiplying it by the
The start of the Blue Planet Odyssey is a year away and many
current (amperage) that it draws while operating. An easy to use
sailors are beginning to outfit their vessels for the long voyage.
vessel energy usage estimator worksheet is available at: www.
Pablo Aguilera, sailing on Odyssea, has asked us at E Marine
emarinesystems.com . In the case of Odyssea, two operating
Systems, in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, to supply the necessary
scenarios were considered, one while under sail, and one while
equipment to ensure that the energy requirements during his
at anchor. The worksheet provided estimates 175 AH (amp-
voyage will be both economical and environmentally friendly.
hours) while at anchor and 402 AH while sailing.
Odyssea is a 40 foot Beneteau Oceanis built in 2011 and Pablo Aguilera’s goal is to operate at sea without the need to use fossil fuels for recharging the batteries while using his electronic equipment, including radar, autopilot, radios, running lights and other related cruising equipment. As the budget was limited,
W
What are the energy hogs? Sometimes the energy usage estimator will identify some major energy hogs and a decision needs to be taken whether it makes more sense
optimizing the right equipment for the owner’s requirements
to replace the equipment with newer, more energy-efficient
was critical.
models, or increase the charging capacity. The refrigeration system should be looked at first for energy consumption and
36 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
it is one area where maximum savings can be achieved if an
have an algorithm called MPPT (maximum power point tracking)
older or less efficient system is currently in place. Replacing an
which optimizes the amount of energy out of the solar panel into
old refrigeration system that is air cooled with one that is water
the battery given the conditions (amount of sun, shading, etc.).
cooled can reduce energy consumption by 50%, while having the
MPPT controllers are recommended because they will typically
additional benefit of a quieter cabin with less heat.
improve output by 25%. Having two charge controllers will be
Watermakers and air conditioning systems are also very high
more effective since each controller will manage the energy
energy consuming devices. Trying to accommodate these directly
from a single solar panel, and should there be a failure in one of
from renewable energy sources is very difficult to achieve. One
the controllers or panels only 50% of the system would be out of
solution is to run the engine (or generator) while making water.
operation. Two Blue Sky 2512iXHV charge controllers combined
As to the air conditioner, on Odyssea it has been agreed to only
with an IPN Pro Remote controller were selected. The advantage
use it when shore power is available.
of these products is that the IPN remote display allows each individual controller to be monitored. The dual 245 W solar
B
Battery selection
panels are estimated to produce over a normal sunny day 175
There are several battery choices available and
AH of energy. On less than sunny days, the energy production
these include flooded (lead acid), AGM (advanced
estimate will be significantly lower so other alternative energy
glass mat), lithium ion and other variations. Lead
sources had to be considered to meet the owner’s goal of not
acid batteries are not expensive but need maintenance and
running his engine to charge the batteries.
have a limited lifespan of 4 to 5 years. AGM batteries eliminate the need for maintenance, offer a higher amount of cycles (increased lifespan) and in some cases can be discharged deeper than the lead acid type. They cost considerably more but you might expect to see a lifespan of 5 to 7 years. The lithium ion
H
Hydrogenerator The increased demand for energy while sailing, combined with days with less sun, may result in the solar panels not producing enough
batteries are the latest type and offer a 75% reduction in weight
electricity to meet the power demand on Odyssea. After
compared to other types. They maintain constant voltage over
serious considerations of looking at wind power versus a hydro
the operating range and can be easily discharged to 80%. They
generator, the owner chose the latter. The model chosen is
charge very quickly (2 hours) and are more efficient through
Hydrogenerator, manufactured by Watt&Sea. It looks similar
their charge/discharge cycles. They will last for 15 years and are
to a small outboard motor mounted at the stern. It is lowered
a great solution on a cruising boat but come with a very high
into the water while under sail and removed when not in use.
price tag costing between five and seven times more than the
It produces 300 AH per 24 hours with a 280 mm propeller at
other types.
an average speed of 5.5 knots, with minimal drag effect due to
Based on Odyssea’s daily energy demand while sailing of
its hydrodynamic design. The Hydrogenerator comes complete
402 AH, available space and the owner’s preference for AGM
with a regulator that prevents overcharging the batteries. Three
batteries, the decision was taken to provided six GPL-4CT, 6V
different propellers are available depending on the boat’s
batteries rated at 220 AH and weighing 66 lbs /30 kg each.
design and sailing speeds anticipated.
When configured in a 12V bank the six batteries will provide a total of 660 AH. Designed for a maximum overnight discharge of 50%, the battery bank will provide 330 AH. The overnight power demand while under sail is estimated at 201 AH (50% of 402 AH).
A
Alternators Emergency backup power is another aspect that we had to consider. Odyssea has a 53 HP Yanmar diesel engine equipped with a standard
80A alternator. The owner decided to add a second high output
S
Solar system
alternator (120A) as a backup should the renewable energy
Odyssea has a large frame at the stern that can
systems fall short or if a system failure were to occur. The
accommodate two 245 Watt Kyocera KD245
alternators were combined through the use of a battery isolator
solar panels. The more solar that can be added
that accepts two alternator inputs to either battery banks (house
to the vessel, the better, especially if it is in an area that is
and starter).
free of shading. Redundancy at sea is always an important consideration. Having a backup system should one piece of equipment fail is important for both safety and comfort. In this case we recommended two solar panels connected to the battery bank through two, rather than a single, charge controller.
B
Battery monitor Monitoring your energy on board is an absolute requirement. It tells the amount of energy available in the battery bank allowing for
The charge controller regulates the energy from the solar panel
constant management of energy use. Such monitors are available
to the battery bank. The more sophisticated charge controllers
from manufacturers such as Xantex, Victron, etc.
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 37
Weekend Seminar on Long Distance Cruising At the Maritime Institute Conference Center, Linthicum, MD
A
s part of the preparations for the Blue Planet
Richard Hudson has sailed over 50,000 miles. Aboard his
Odyssey we are holding a two days seminar over the
current boat, the 50-foot steel staysail schooner Issuma, he
Columbus Day weekend at the Maritime Institute
sailed the Northwest Passage from west to east in 2011.
Conference Center at Linthicum, Maryland. We are
Doina Cornell is event coordinator for the Blue Planet Odyssey
very fortunate to be able to use the excellent facilities of this
and Atlantic Odyssey. She is a qualified teacher, writer and local
institution dedicated to the needs of the maritime community.
councillor and, having grown up on a boat, is well placed to have
We have put together a comprehensive syllabus to cover all
a real understanding of the dynamics of onboard family life.
essential aspects of interest to anyone planning a long voyage.
John Ellis is the Blue Planet Odyssey event director and has
Among our speakers we have several specialists in their field
managed several rallies, including four global events. He raced
and also sailors with many thousands of miles to their credit.
and delivered yachts for many years, before circumnavigating
Lee Chesneau is a professional meteorologist with experiences
the planet in the first round the world rally.
on land and sea (with over 70,000 miles under his keel), retired
An accomplished sailor and successful author, Jimmy Cornell
naval officer, accomplished weather forecaster, vessel router,
has sailed 200,000 miles in all oceans of the world. He has
author and lecturer.
completed three circumnavigations, including two voyages to
Dr Laura Sudarsky is an experienced offshore cruiser and racer,
Antarctica. Jimmy is now planning to transit the Northwest
and has been involved in many situations that required medical
Passage in a new boat as part of the Blue Planet Odyssey. In the
intervention at sea. Dr Sudarsky is a reconstructive plastic
last three decades he has organised 20 transatlantic rallies, five
surgeon in New York and Fort Lauderdale, who has taken part in
round the world rallies and one round the world race.
several medical missions abroad, most recently in Afghanistan. Steven Bowden is an expert on offshore communications and has worked closely with leading equipment manufacturers in developing new models of SSB radios and satellite telephony. Captain Alan Desa is a former airline pilot, an unlimited tonnage licensed Master Mariner, and educator at MITAGS, teaching navigation and radar. Beth Leonard and Evans Starzinger have completed two circumnavigations, one westabout in the tropics and one eastabout, passing under all of the Great Southern Capes. Beth is the author of The Voyager’s Handbook, Director of Technical Services at Boat U.S. and editor of Seaworthy Magazine. Evans has written technical articles on all aspects of offshore sailing for Cruising World, Practical Sailor, Yachting Monthly, and Boat U.S. Magazine.
How to join the seminar The seminar is open to anyone interested, not just participants in the Blue Planet Odyssey. The cost is $295 per person or $495 for couples, and includes all seminar expenses, live demonstrations, lunch, refreshments, also shuttle service from Baltimore International Airport. Blue Planet Odyssey participants who have paid their registration fee are entitled to one free place. If more crew wish to attend, or anyone who has not yet paid the registration fee, the seminar fee will be deducted from the registration or crew fee when they are paid. Hotel type accommodation is available at the conference center www.ccmit.org For more information send an email to
38 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
seminar@cornellsailing.com
Weekend Seminar on Long Distance Cruising
Seminar Program Day One: Sunday October 13 0800-0845 Registration 0845-0900
Welcome and introduction
0900-0930 Essential aspects of voyage preparation
Jimmy Cornell Jimmy Cornell
0930-0945
Coffee break
0945-1100
Weather forecasts and weather routing: what every sailor
should know about weather for voyage and passage planning
Lee Chesneau
1100-1200
Practical aspects of long distance cruising
Jimmy Cornell
1200-1230
Lunch
1230-1330
Marine weather and self-reliance concepts,
prevailing winds and currents, effects of climate change
Lee Chesneau
1330-1500
Medical emergencies
Dr Laura Sudarski
1500-1515
Coffee break
1515-1600 Anchoring techniques Evans Starzinger 1600-1700
Sailing couples
Beth Leonard
1700-1730
Cruising as a family
Doina Cornell
1730-1830
Long distance cruising for women: ask your questions.
Closed session for women only.
Moderated by Beth Leonard, Doina Cornell and Laura Sudarski.
1730-1830 The men have their say: open session on tips and gadgets.
Moderated by Jimmy Cornell, Evans Starzinger and John Ellis
1830-1900
Cocktails
1900-2030
Dinner
2030-2130
Highlights of a sailing life
Jimmy and Doina Cornell
Day Two: Monday October 14 0800-0930
Offshore communications + navigation & planning apps
0930-1030
View from the bridge simulation
1030-1200
Planning a voyage to the Caribbean, to Europe, and back‌
and all the way around the world
1200-1230
Lunch
1230-1330
High latitude sailing and Northwest Passage transit Richard Hudson
1330-1430
Offshore routines
1430-1515
Liferaft inflation and boarding pool demonstration
1515-1530
Coffee break
1530-1630
Sailing in a rally or on your own
1630-1700 AIS and collision avoidance 1700-1730 Questions and answers on long distance cruising 1730 End of program 1730-1830
Blue Planet Odyssey briefing
Steven Bowden
Jimmy Cornell
Jimmy Cornell
John Ellis & Jimmy Cornell Captain Alan Desa
Blue Planet
Odyssey
Spreads The Word
I
n the first issue of the Blue Planet Log I wrote about our educational program, and how Blue Planet Odyssey participants would set up links with local schools – so children and young people around the world would be
children around the world Are able to follow the event and communicate with schools in other countries
H
ello all!! WOW!! What a GREAT time we had at Lake Norman Yacht Club’s Sailing Camp! I think everyone there is just as excited as I am about the Blue Planet
able to follow the event, communicate with schools in other
Odyssey!
countries, and become aware of the real state of our planet, and
Instead of just a quick presentation, I decided to spend the entire
above all our oceans, through the eyes of sailors and islanders
day with them. So, I was able to talk with many of the various
in remote regions.
fleets one-on-one, as well as give my presentation at the end
I am very pleased that since I wrote those words, many
of the day. The kids and adults are thrilled to hear of the event,
participants have begun to build up their links with schools and
and all of them are so very excited to follow our progress as
children in the countries where they are based. However, some
we voyage. They will be supporting us for sure, and the LNYC
have asked me, how do I start? Here you can read about one
Sailing Camp is excited to be the very first classroom to commit
way to do it, which will hopefully inspire you, from Benjamin
to participate in our educational voyage and online exchanges!
Riddle, sailing on Whirlwind with his partner Joseph Richardson.
Personally, I began at Lake Norman Yacht Club’s Sailing Camp at
Benjamin has written about his links with Lake Norman Yacht
the age of 6 and eventually ended up teaching there and racing
Club, based in Cornelius, North Carolina, USA, and we’ve included
throughout my younger years. It holds a very special place in my
some comments from the children who will be following
heart... there are so many wonderful families there and we all
Benjamin and Joseph’s exploits round the world.
love being on the water!
If that wasn’t inspiration enough, we’ve also included on these
Benjamin Riddle
pages a poem written by Joseph, and to round off our ‘literary corner’, a prize-winning speech from my son Dan.
What I think about the Blue Planet Odyssey is that the people Doina Cornell
sailing are either insanely skilled, they want to help, or they just want to test their limit. When I heard my Mom’s friends Benjamin & Joseph are going, I thought they were the third type. After they told us what they are really doing, I knew they were the second type. Good luck! Colin Sherry (10) I think Blue Planet Odyssey is really cool. Number one, because my Mom’s best friend is sailing around the world. Number two because the fleet is going to be helping people on the way. And they said they would be taking us with them on the Blue Planet Odyssey... How cool is that?? Josie Sherry (8) Benjamin sailing at age six
Joseph Richardson
Dan Cornell
Our Blue Planet Poem
The world would be
Our Earth spins in her orbit without our thought Each one of us her caretakers Believe it or not
a better place if ...
E
veryone had an equal share of food and water. If no one was to die of not having enough to eat or drink, when other people do. More welling equipment must be bought to get clean water, for those who
have none. For nobody to be left out in the corner, with no hope
Here On Earth
to have their share. For people to treat others as they would
It’s where we Live
like to be treated, not ruining their lives every day. For people to
We continually ask her to
understand their actions to see what they’re doing wrong. If this
Give, Give, Give
was to be, to treat others respectfully, would we not live our lives more happily? Same for wars, and people not understanding
We’ve taken without thought
other people’s thinking and that what they think is wrong.
Of where she is going
Everybody should learn and teach themselves to respect each
All the while our children are growing & growing
other’s beliefs as our own.
What Earth will they see?
Africa, a scarred continent, is tackling problems every moment!
What kind of world will it be?
One of which is the diseases held there. Thousands of young, innocent children who could be living their lives, die everyday,
What legacy will our generation leave?
just due to there being so many horrid diseases out there. We
Is it one our children will find hard to conceive?
can stop that though, and yet some of us just sit back and don’t
That we did not care for our home Earth as we should
bother. Well I ask those people, how would they feel, in a hospital
Even though we had the knowledge and knowing we could
full of dying young children calling for their need? How would they react then? More mosquito nets and vaccines must be
Our responsibility is Now
bought and now!!
We already know How
Not just treating other people badly, we are treating our planet
To make the changes that we must
badly. Global warming is getting worse and worse, with all the
Earth’s fate lies in each of our hands
creation of pollution by our cars. Not to mention all the other
This you can trust
terrible causes. We need to find a sustainable energy now to fuel our energy safely.
The answers lie in You and Me
One other problem, towards animals, is that we continue to kill,
Sustainability holds the key
and capture them, even when we know it’s wrong. People must understand their actions now! I say we end poaching, and keep
We can no longer be so careless and
up the work of protecting endangered species.
Take, Take, Take
No more waiting. No more discussing of wars to be done. We
For if we do
carry this out now, or never!
The future of our children, plants, animals and all life We will forsake
Dan wrote this for a competition run by his class teacher and performed in front of the whole school – the children chose Dan’s
The time is Now I know you can feel it in your Heart The time is Now To do your Part Our Earth spins in her orbit without our thought Each one of us her caretakers Believe it or not The time is Now I know you can feel it in your Heart The time is Now To do your Part
speech as the winner.
Dick Bower in front of son Billy and his friend Jenny
Lou and Trish Reynolds
News from
the BPO Explorers Blue Planet Odyssey Participants Terry and Dena Singh LOU AND TRISH REYNOLDS have a
Also joining in Panama will be TERRY
We are looking forward to everything
combined 30 years of sailing experience
AND DENA SINGH, who plan to leave
the Odyssey has in store for each of us,
in the Pacific Northwest. They left Seattle
San Diego in the fall of 2014. Their
especially creating new friendships with
in October 2012 to make The Big Left
Amel Super Maramu Libby is their third
everyone involved in the BPO.”
Turn. They are currently living aboard
cruising sailboat and they have already
FarAway in Ensenada, Mexico. In October
logged many miles sailing down the
One of the five yachts taking the Northern
2013 they will explore more of Mexico
west coast of North America and Mexico
Route from London is DICK BOWER’s
and Central America and will meet
before returning to their homeport San
Gusto, pictured here on Penobscot Bay
up with the Blue Planet Odyssey in
Diego.
in Maine.
“We are now busy getting Libby and our
“Here I am with my son Billy and his friend
lives ready for a life away from the dock. We
Jenny. They’ve graduated from medical
“Our cruising plans originally included
are wrapping up work and everything else
school so I am free to retire from orthopedic
the South Pacific, Southeast Asia and the
that goes with the transition from North
surgery and join the Blue Planet Odyssey.
Mediterranean. When we read about the
American culture into the cruising world.
I am looking forward to it very much, and
Blue Planet Odyssey and the purpose of
We are lining up 1-2 schools now for the
also finding an adventurous lady who
the event it sounded like a perfect fit. The
education portion of our commitment and
would like to come along.”
thought of being able to give something
are so excited to see what this endeavor
back to those in need by sharing our skills
will bring to the lives of so many children
Starting
and talents would just enhance our cruising
all over the world.
RICHARD LEDNICKY AND ANDREA
experience that much more. Trish is a
On the side, we are also studying how to
VAN HOVEN on their Beneteau First 47
nurse practitioner and I am a data/systems
produce a documentary of this trip as we
Imagine. They both have been sailing for
engineer and with our combined skills we
are deeply into photography and both of us
over 40 years on the Eastern Seaboard
hope to contribute to the communities we
come from the video technology industry
and in the Caribbean and have a wide
visit.”
(a.k.a. cable television). This kind of project
range of qualifications, both academic
is a culmination of our lives and careers.
and nautical.
September 2014 on the west side of the Panama Canal.
42 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
from
New
York
will
be
Andrea van Hoven and Richard Lednicky
Philip Goymour
William Hickson, Tim Liveright, Zeke Holland
“Currently, we live and work at Shelburne
sailing experience into honing the yacht
PHIL GOYMOUR is still undecided
Farms in Vermont. Shelburne Farms is a
to the sharpest edge possible.
where he will join the Blue Planet
non-profit education organization whose
Odyssey. He has sailed some 6000 miles
mission is to cultivate a conservation ethic
“A magical bit of synchrony brought us
for a sustainable future. The campus is
together and culminated in our registering
a 1,400-acre working farm and National
for the BPO. Remarkable were the facts that
“I used to be an electronic engineer. I
Historic Landmark. We care about the
we had never met, that we lived in different
sold my business in 1998 and emigrated
sustainability and quality of life on earth
parts of the US, had a fascination for the
with my wife and son from the UK to
and about young people having hope for
same catamaran model (the Chris White
Sydney. The business designed and built
the future.
designed Atlantic 42), had circumnavigation
offshore survey instruments to determine
We were planning to move to our boat
on our bucket lists and… were looking for
the nature of sea-bed, depth of pipe-
in May of 2014 to sail around the world.
partners to share these nautical interests.
lines and so on. So I spent much time
After reading about Blue Planet Odyssey,
I guess we could say the BPO was the
offshore during my business life, but only
we realized what a perfect fit it was for
glue, the icing on the cake that made our
learnt to sail in 2000. My electronic skills
our values.
partnership finally happen. Our additional
have long since expired, but I still love
We will also involve our local schools
life long commitment to progressive social
practical tasks, fixing & building anything.
which encompass one high school and four
and environmental causes has found the
Especially close to my heart will be to
elementary and four middle schools. We
perfect compliment to our sailing passion.
seek the opportunity to enhance the life of
are also very excited about collecting the
We are almost beside ourselves knowing
children in some small way, by improving
scientific data and helping the communities
that we will have the opportunity of
medical or educational facilities or simply
we visit in whatever capacity needed.”
contributing to such a worthwhile mission,
by improving home infrastructure such as
which may just shake a few folks loose from
sanitation or irrigation. I hope to be able
since he purchased Pearl Fisher in 2006.
LIVERIGHT
their complacent non-activist moorings. In
to bring enthusiasm, energy, suggestions,
AND ZEKE HOLLAND formed a boat
this respect we have begun to draft plans
basic IT skills and shovel-wielding.”
partnership to purchase No Regrets and
for alerting our communities of the BPO
plan to merge their combined 75 years of
and our involvement.”
BILL
HICKSON,
TIM
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 43
Tim and Ceci King
Manuela Bachmann and Dani Ammann
Laurey & Bill Stanley
TIM AND CECI KING will be sailing
“We plan to spend our retirement cruising
Globetrotters some day, but we never
Ransom, their 39 year old Hinckley 49’
as long as we can and then a little more.
thought it would happen that soon. We
along the Southern Route starting from
We have cruised the U.S east coast from Key
like the idea of visiting fascinating places
Norfolk, Virginia and ending up who
West to Long Island Sound, with the majority
and marvel about the amazing diversity
knows where?
of our experience in the Chesapeake Bay.
of nature, meeting foreign cultures and
Circumnavigation had been a thought, but
receiving an insight in their everyday life.
“This is the opportunity of a lifetime that
not a serious one until we heard about the
Although we are toddlers in terms of blue
many sailors will never have a chance at.
Blue Planet Odyssey. What an opportunity
water sailing, we are investing a lot of
Aside from the adventure of it all, raising
and for such a meaningful cause! We hope
time and effort in our nautical education
awareness for how disrespectfully we are
to bring our passion and some useful skills
to gather the best possible preparation
treating our oceans (among other natural
to this event. We are so looking forward to
for this event. We will have a team of
assets) is important to us. Mother Nature
this once-in-a-lifetime experience.”
professionals assisting us on behalf of
is not pleased. We can’t wait to get started.
Segel Sport Resch based in South Germany.
Thankfully, we have a year to get ourselves
MANUELA
and Ransom ready.
DANIEL AMMAN will take on the
charge of Frangimaran.
P.S. As the Scottish are fond of saying, “Be
Blue Planet Odyssey challenge with their
Since Frangimaran is not exactly a single-
happy while you are living, for you are a
sailing vessel Frangimaran, a Lagoon 52,
handed sailing boat, we would like to invite
long time dead.”
which is currently under construction in
interested sailors and volunteers to join us
Bordeaux.
on their favorite passages and give them
BACHMANN
AND
Starting in Miami will be BILL AND
Axel Silgmann will be the first skipper in
the chance to enjoy the family experience
LAUREY STANLEY on Ursa Major. Bill
“Both of us were very excited when we first
of the Blue Planet Odyssey in exchange for
started cruising at the age of 7 with a
stumbled across the Blue Planet Odyssey
a helping hand.”
boat he built himself out of an old door
project. The unique combination of sailing
and a few scraps of lumber, while Laurey
the seven seas and sailing for a higher
grew up in Iowa and did not see the
purpose is a very exciting endeavor. Both
ocean until she was in college.
of us always felt the desire to become
44 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
Blue Planet Odyssey Confirmed Participants List TBA = to be announced
Boat Name
Design/LOA
Owner
Country
Route
Start
1
Aventura IV
Exploration 45
Jimmy Cornell
GBR
Northern
London
2
FarAway
Pearson 367
Lou & Trish Reynolds
USA
Southern
Panama
3
Festina Lente
Discovery 55
Nick Pochin
GBR
Northern
London
4
Gemeaux
Fountain-Pajot Helia 44
Eric & Patricia Frangeul
FRA
Southern
Canary Islands
5
Gusto
Custom Chuck Paine 44 Dick Bower
USA
Northern
London
6
Imagine
Beneteau First 47
Richard Lednicky & Andrea Van Hoven
USA
Southern
New York
7
Khujada 2
Ovni 395
Julian & Albane Smart
GBR
Southern
London
8
Libby
Super Maramu 53
Terry & Dena Singh
USA
Southern
Miami
9
Living For Wind
Leopard 48
Octaaf & Alma Bulterys
RSA
Southern
Cape Town
10
No Regrets
Atlantic 42
Tim Liveright / Zeke Holland / William Hickson
USA
Southern
Newport
11
Odyssea
Beneteau Oceanis 40
Pablo Aguilera
USA
Southern
Miami
12
Marco Polo
Outremer 46
Jan Michel Pinto da Silva
BRA
Southern
TBA
13
Pearl Fisher
Oyster
Philip Goymour
AUS
Southern
TBA
14
Ransom
Hinckley 49
Tim & Ceci King
USA
Southern
Norfolk
15
Strangetrader
Hallberg Rassy 46
Robert & Andrea Schwamberg
AUS
Southern
Spain
16
Suilven
Oyster 47
John & Linda Andrews
GBR
Northern
Inverness
17
Teoula
Outremer 45
Udo & Regin Bönicke
SUI
Southern
London
18
Ursa Major
Kadey Krogen 54
Bill & Laurey Stanley
USA
Southern
Miami
19
Whirlwind
German Frers 50
Benjamin Riddle & Joseph Richardson
USA
Southern
Miami
20
TBA
Lagoon 45
Paul Hart
USA
Southern
Miami
21
TBA
Outremer 49
Francis Compton
USA
Southern
Miami
22
Frangimaran
Lagoon 52
Dani Ammann & Manuela Bachmann
SUI
Southern
London
23
TBA
Exploration 45
Lou & Zetty Morgan
USA
Northern
London
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 45
Wendy, Dennis, Tatum & Holden on Felina
News from The
Atlantic
Argonauts
Wendy, Dennis, Tatum & Holden “There are four of us in our family, at least
reasons. We are also “testing” to see if we
cols. Pour l’instant c’est la découverte
as long as we can keep our kids from
might join the Blue Planet Odyssey.
du bateau et de son infini bricolage
adopting a stray pet along the way (so far
We are looking forward to meeting everyone
pour la préparation à ce voyage. Puis,
so good). We are a homeschooling family
in the Canaries, but are going to enjoy our
nous l’espérons, une ouverture sur l’autre
and figured we can homeschool anywhere,
summer here in the Med along the way.”
et son cadre de vie. Alors quand nous avons
so why not as we travel. We sold our home,
découvert
l’Atlantic
Odyssée
cars, and everything that didn’t fit on the
Dennis Schmidt, Wendy Demeter,
nous nous sommes sentis rejoints dans
airplane as luggage, and bought a boat.
Tatum, and Holden from the United
nos espérances: traverser l’Atlantic en
We began our adventure a year ago in July
States are currently cruising in the
sécurité avec l’accompagnement de vrais
when we arrived in France and saw for the
Mediterranean on their Lagoon 450
marins (ce que nous espérons devenir),
first time what was to be our new home
catamaran Felina and will take the start
et donner un sens supplémentaire à
for the foreseeable future, Felina. We have
in La Palma.
notre projet en y associant un voyage à thème: observation de la nature et son
been enjoying an extended shake down cruise for both boat and family starting in La Rochelle, France and sailing as far east
The Courty Familiy
interaction avec l’homme.” “For the last three years we have been
“Depuis 3 ans nous préparons notre
getting ready to set off on our family
When we first heard about the Atlantic
voyage en famille. Nous vivons dans
voyage. We live up in the High Alps in the
Odyssey, it was a tough decision, not on
les hautes alpes : la plus haute ville
highest town in Europe, in a region that
whether to join or not, but which crossing
d’Europe, dans une région que certains
some have described as the ‘ante-chamber
to join. We opted for the later one in
qualifient même d’anti chambre du
of paradise’, and our backyard is the Écrins
January.
paradis, et notre terrain de jeu est le
National Park. So why on earth leave ?
Our purpose for joining the Atlantic Odyssey
parc national des écrins. Alors pourquoi
Perhaps in order to pursue further this
is varied. Meeting people on a similar route,
partir? Peut être pour pouvoir poursuivre
communion with nature and to show our
benefiting from the experience of others,
cette communion avec la nature et
young children what exists on the other
and the mental ease of knowing there are
emmener nos plus jeunes enfants voir
side of the mountain passes.
others over the horizon, are a few of the
ce qu’y existe de l’autre coté de nos
At the moment we are busy getting to know
as Turkey.
46 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
The Courty family
the boat and all the endless preparations
see many different countries. I will sail in
“Je suis contente de partir et d’avoir
that have to be done for the voyage.
the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean.
la possibilité de vivre une expérience
Then, we hope, a quite different way of
I will have a little cabin of my own. I am
peu commune. Je vais aller voir avec
life will open for us. When we discovered
sad to be leaving Briançon, and my friends
un moyen de transport économique et
the Atlantic Odyssey we felt all our hopes
and family that are staying behind. I am in
original des pays que je ne connais que
had come true: to cross the Atlantic safely,
a hurry to go.”
dans des livres d’école. Je vais quitter mes
in the company of real sailors, which we
Eloi (6)
do hope to become ourselves, and to give
montagnes et et je ne vais plus voir mes amis et ma famille mais j’aurais le plaisir
our enterprise an extra dimension by
“Je suis très heureuse de faire ce voyage
d’être en contact avec eux par notre blog
associating a voyage with the theme of
extraordinaire où je pourrais faire de la
<< les courty sont sur un bateau >> et de
observing nature and its interaction with
plongée, découvrir plein de choses et
leurs faire partager mes experiences.”
man.”
autres. Avec mon papa, ma maman, ma
“I am happy to be leaving and to have the
grande sœur et mon petit frère j’ai hâte
chance to have an experience out of the
Stephane and Jo-Aline Courty will be
de partir. Je suis un peu triste de quitter
ordinary. I will get to see countries that I
sailing on their Jeanneau Trinidad 48 Le
ma terre habituelle et mes amis, mais
only know about from school books, by an
Graal with their three children who have
je me dis que là bas ce sera beau et
economical and original mode of transport.
all something to say:
fantastique. Où j’irais, ce sera mon destin.”
I will leave my mountains behind and I
“I am really happy to be able to make this
won’t see my friends and family but I’m
“Je vais aller faire le tour du monde. Je
extraordinary voyage where I will be able to
glad I will be able to keep in contact with
vais voir plusieurs pays. Je vais naviguer
go diving, and will discover all sorts of
them via our blog ‘les courty sont sur un
dans la méditerranée et l’océan Atlantic.
different things. With my dad, my mum, my
bateau’ and to share with them all my
Je vais avoir une petite cabine à moi tout
big sister and little brother I can’t wait until
experiences.”
seul. Je suis triste de partir de Briançon,
we leave. I am a bit sad to be leaving the
de quitter mes amis et ma famille qui
place I know well, and my friends, but I tell
reste là. J’ai hâte de partir.”
myself that it will be beautiful and fantastic.
“I am going to sail around the world. I will
Where I will go, that will be my destiny.”
Anne-Suzie (13)
Oriane (11) Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 47
Marco Polo crew
The Beck family
Anne & Jan Michel
Jan Michel Pinto da Silva and Anne
figured that since we’d finally found the
Daldegan will be starting from Lanzarote
courage to play our hand that Moxie suited
“Encore difficile à croire que nous
on their Outremer 55 catamaran Marco
quite well.”
sommes à 20 jours du début de notre
Polo. Jan Michel, a Brazilian based in
rêve, une vie calme paisible près de la
Paris, is also planning to continue with
After lots of RYA training, boat preparation
nature sur notre bateau, loin du rythme
the Blue Planet Odyssey.
and bashing around the Solent we sailed
effréné des grandes villes. Nous partons
off from the UK in July 2010. Our first year
avec le rallye Atlantique Odyssey par ce
took us to the Algarve, there were many ups
que nous avons le sentiment que l’esprit
and downs and a steep learning curve, from
de ce rallye correspond à nos valeurs, solidarité, convivialité, entraide oú des
The Beck Family
there to the Balearics where we spent two years. Then we decided to go all in, spend
passionnés de voile peuvent se retrouver
“Blue water sailing has appealed to me
our house money and buy a nice big comfy
et vivre leur rêve.”
since I was a small boy; growing up in New
catamaran. Xmas 2012 we took Moxie back
“It is still so hard to believe that we are
Zealand my fondest memories are of time
to the Algarve and moved over to our new
less than three weeks away from the start
spent in boats. My grandfather was a keen
boat. We are now in the Aeolian Islands just
of our dream, a calm and peaceful life close
sailor and built a yacht which he raced in
off Sicily and heading to Greece, then will
to nature on our boat, far from a frenetic
the Auckland to Suva race. I guess this is
be high tailing out to the Canaries to join
urban lifestyle. We are setting off with the
where the seed was planted.
the Atlantic Odyssey.
Atlantic Odyssey because we feel that the
We left New Zealand in 1998 and moved
We keep a blog http://blog.mailasail.com/
spirit of this rally really does correspond
to London, but I was already telling people
moxie”
to our values of solidarity, conviviality and
that we’d be sailing home but imagined it
support where those who are passionate
would be as crew on someone else’s boat.
Mike and Denise Beck will start from La
about sailing can meet and together live
After many years in the UK and now with
Palma in their Fontaine Pajot catamaran
the sailing dream.”
a couple of kids we’d had enough of city
Moxie II.
life and purchased our first ever yacht, a Beneteau 473 which we named Moxie. Moxie roughly translates as gumption, we 48 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013
The Deis family
Uli Hoffmann on the way to Cuxhaven
day by day, discovering other shores and
Uli Hoffmann
The Deis Family
“The Atlantic Odyssey is part of a one year
“Surgi de nos rêves, évincé de ses doutes
break with those city routines which are so
sabbatical that I’m taking from August this
et motivé par l’idée d’une expérience
comfortable but so oppressive… and above
year. The intention is to do the Atlantic
unique avec nos enfants, le projet de
all to realise all this with Oceïs. Bought just
circuit and to be back in Northern Europe
vivre au plus près d’eux, de découvrir
a year ago, she is an Oceanis 45 and our
about the end of June next year. We will do
d’autres rivages et d’autres civilisations,
newest family member. We have the utmost
the Atlantic Odyssey with a crew of three.
d’apprendre à s’adapter, à rompre avec les
confidence in her, and for the last few
This team has sailed together since our time
habitudes citadines à la fois confortables
months, along the western coasts of France,
at university. Our experience is sailing trips
et oppressantes, et surtout se retrouver,
we have got to know her better.
in the Baltic and several Channel crossings,
se concrétise avec Oceïs. Acquis, il y a
For us the first important stage of this
the trips lasting typically a fortnight.
un an, c’est un OCEANIS 45 : le nouveau
journey will be the Atlantic crossing. We are
I started sailing at age 13 on dinghies,
membre de la famille. On a confiance et,
all taking part, because young and old, we
mostly on lakes and later also on chartered
depuis plusieurs mois, sur les cotes ouest
know that not everyone can do it and we
boats and club boats. My longest offshore
de la France, on apprend à se connaître.
would like to be a part of the clan of ‘those
experience up to now was a trip from
Etape importante, la première de ce
who have done it’. As a family with children
the Azores to Kinsale and a journey from
périple, la traversée de l’Atlantique.
on board, it seemed sensible for us to be
Madeira to Cadiz.
Nous sommes tous partants, car petits
in an organised event, more fun, because
I like the concept of the Atlantic Odyssey to
et grands savons bien que cela n’est pas
meeting others is important too.
do the crossing in an organised form, that
accessible à tout le monde et souhaitons
The timing of the Atlantic Odyssey, and
gives support on the one hand and is much
faire partie du clan de « ceux qui l’on
the objectives of this new transatlantic
fun as we are part of a bigger community.”
fait ». Avec des enfants à bord, il nous
rally, the safety aspect and a return to the
a semblé plus prudents d’être encadrés
amateur spirit, persuaded us to take part.
Uli Hoffmann is sailing his Hanse 345
par une organisation, plus sympa car les
We are truly impatient to be there!”
Muskat, starting in Lanzarote.
rencontres sont importes aussi.
other civilisations, to learn to adapt, to
Le timing de « l’Atlantic Odyssey »
Françoise and Cédric Deis, with their
et les objectifs de ce nouveau rallye
children Loris (15), Nolan (11) and
transatlantique, sécurité et plaisir pour
Ysaure (4) will take the start in Lanzarote
des amateurs, nous ont convaincus de
on their Oceanis 45 Oceïs.
participer. On a vraiment hâte d’y être !!!!” “Emerging from our dreams, all our doubts have been set aside, and we are motivated by the idea of a unique experience to share with our children, to live with them
Blue Planet LOG • Issue 2 • July 2013 • 49
Atlantic Odyssey List of Entries TBA = to be announced Boat Name
Design/LOA
Owner
Country
Route
Albenuz
Jeanneau Sun Liberty 34
Jean Pierre & Edith Groscolas
FRA
TBA
2
Antaviana
Jeanneau Sun Liberty 44i
Javier Visiers
ESP
Lanzarote-Martinique
3
Atout Coeur
Lagoon 380
Bernard & Marie Laurence Fachon
FRA
La Palma-Grenada
4
Drina
Jade 48
Michael Thurston
AUS
Lanzarote-Martinique
5
Duck
Beneteau Oceanis 46
Gyorgy Varnai
HUN
Lanzarote-Martinique
6
Felina
Lagoon 450
Dennis Schmidt & Wendy Demeter
USA
TBA
7
Gemm
Swan 55
Vincenzo Visenzi
ITA
Lanzarote-Martinique
8
Pénélope
Feeling 346
Denis Mangeot
FRA
La Palma-Grenada
9
HOA
Joubert Loncours 62
Jacqueline Cadalen & Yannick Perriot
BEL
TBA
10
Le Graal
Jeanneau Trinidad 48
Stéphane & Jo-Aline Courty
FRA
Lanzarote-Martinique
11
Marco Polo
Outremer 55
Jan Michel Pinto da Silva & Anne Daldegan
FRA
Lanzarote-Martinique
12
Moxie II
Fontaine Pajot
Michael & Denise Beck
GBR
La Palma-Grenada
13
Muskat
Hanse 345
Ulrich Hoffmann
GER
Lanzarote-Martinique
14
Noix de Coco
Fountaine Pajot Lipari 41
Daniel Lallemand & Florence Soulerin
FRA
La Palma-Grenada
15
Oceïs
Beneteau Oceanis 45
Cedric & Françoise Deis
FRA
Lanzarote-Martinique
16
Okamaugo
Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 36
Aurelien & Aurelie Tricault
FRA
TBA
17
Sudoeste
Beneteau First 44.7
Jonathan & Kerry Ash
NZL
Lanzarote-Martinique
18
Tide Head
Outbound 46
Dirk de Haan & Susan Barclay
USA
La Palma-Grenada
19
Twixter
Lagoon 440
Catherine & Robert Henderson
USA
La Palma-Grenada
20
Vieux Malin
Alpa 42
Mauro Benjamin Mistretta
ITA
Lanzarote-Martinique
Blue Planet Log
1
Editor Jimmy Cornell Managing Editor Doina Cornell Subeditor Gwenda Cornell Graphic Artist Joerg Baginski Contributors Gwenda Cornell, Pascal Guiraudou, Denis Giles, Emily Penn, Martin Kramp, Steven Bowden, John Ellis, Paul Ladino, Doina Cornell, Joseph Richardson, Benjamin Riddle, Dan Cornell
Photographs Daniel Strauch (p. 6), Pascal Guiraudou (p. 16-21), Le Phare Bleu Marina (p. 23), Biswarup Ganguly and Voguru (p. 25), Denis Giles (p. 27), Emily Penn (p. 22, 29), Chris Jordan, Five Gyres Institute (p. 29), Pablo Aguilera (p. 36), MICC (p. 39), Benjamin Riddle (p. 40-41), Doina Cornell (p. 41). Jimmy Cornell (all others) © Cornell Sailing Events Ltd. 8 Silver Street Dursley GL11 4ND United Kingdom Tel. +44 1453 543872 Cornell Sailing www.cornellsailing.com info@cornellsailing.com
Subscribe to the Blue Planet Log
Blue Planet Odyssey www.blueplanetodyssey.com info@blueplanetodyssey.com www.facebook.com/BluePlanetOdyssey Follow us on Twitter @sailtheodyssey Atlantic Odyssey www.atlanticodyssey.org info@atlanticodyssey.org www.facebook.com/CornellsAtlanticOdyssey www.facebook.com/pages/Rallye-Atlantic-Odyssey Seminars seminar@cornellsailing.com Printed by Girzig+Gottschalk GmbH Hannoversche Str. 64 28309 Bremen Germany
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Garcia Yachting is developing a new exploration yacht in close collaboration with Jimmy Cornell for his next round the world voyage, this time through the Northwest Passage
GARCIA EXPLORATION 45
2014 RELEASE
EXPLORATION & BLUE WATER CRUISING A YACHT DESIGNED TO BE SAILED AND LIVED ABOARD BOTH IN HIGH LATITUDES AND TROPICAL WATERS
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INTEGRAL ALUMINUM CENTERBOARD WATERTIGHT FRONT / AFT BULKHEAD AND COMPANIONWAY DOOR REINFORCED INSULATION AND VENTILATION DECK SALOON AND INSIDE STEERING POSITION OPTIMALLY CENTRALIZED WEIGHT
«I wanted a strong, fast, comfortable, functional and easily handled boat perfectly suited for both high latitude and tropical sailing. I finally decided to develop a new boat which would be as close as can be to my ideal long distance cruising boat. I am very happy to share my enthusiasm with Garcia Yachting, one of the best aluminum boat builders in the world.» Jimmy Cornell
GARCIA YACHTING BUILDING HANDMADE QUALITY PASSAGEMAKERS SINCE 1974
www.garcia-yachting.com
info@garcia-yachting.com ı tél. +33 2 31690392 ©Garcia Yachting | Concept Yannick Mignot | rough : Berret-Racoupeau
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