Unexpected Canberra wins my heart

from The West Australian Travel Sat 11 Feb 2023

Music at the heart

CLARK

Canberra is quiet and comfortable, perfectly planned and easy to get around — but at first it strikes me as too clean and not “livedin” enough.

This can probably be accounted for by the city’s shorter history than cousins Sydney and Melbourne and the fact it was actually planned out — qualities I come to love towards the end of my sixday trip.

My mum said every kid has to go to Canberra and I now know she is absolutely right. From escooters to Monet pieces, this trip is well worth the four flights and two cold Canberra days.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE AND OLD PARLIAMENT HOUSE

A pilgrimage to Canberra isn’t complete without a stop at Parliament House. Wow, is it worth the uphill walk.

The marble foyer is a cool welcome from the outside heat and not at all the darker, carpeted entrance I had expected. I had booked an Indigenous tour of the house and it was a great decision — the Yeribee tour is informative and moving, and much better than meandering through the place on my own.

The tour invites guests to hear the stories of Indigenous parliamentarians, explore the site history of Parliament House, gain insights into how Australia’s First Nations peoples are participating in the democratic processes, and enjoy significant artworks from the Parliament House Art Collection by celebrated Indigenous artists.

A highlight for me is to learn the history of and meaning behind Kumantje Jagamara’sartwork Possum and Wallaby Dreaming which sits at the entrance of the house and is made up of coloured granite pillars buried in the ground.

I was told many times before my trip that Old Parliament House is a nonnegotiable stop and I now agree. With oldworld charm and easytodigest history panels, the museum situated inside gives a runthrough of key moments in Australian politics and the importance of a free press.

THE NATIONAL GALLERIES

The grand architecture of the National Gallery of Art building is art in itself, yet it doesn’t detract from the masterpieces within.

Mandatory cloaking for larger bags and water bottles is in place, with a sign noting the gallery is concerned about recent climate activist vandalism.

On entering, I’m met with a peculiar mix of contemporary sculpture and Sidney Nolan’s mid1900s Ned Kelly series. My favourite collection of pieces, however, is down the hall and in the opening which links to the stairs and special exhibition area. A series of Andy Warhol’s Campbell Soup cans are on one wall and four Roy Lichtenstein prints on the other. It is like it was curated just for me.

Other highlights include Jackson Pollock’s Blue Poles, the Aboriginal Memorial by Ramingining artists, Monet’s Waterlilies and Cressida Campbell’s dedicated exhibition.

The National Portrait Gallery is just across the way and houses tens of thousands of portraits of great people — though visitors only have the privilege of seeing 6 to 10 per cent of the collection, depending on when they visit.

National Library

The National Library should be on everyone’s list. It doesn’t take long to take in the beauty of the building from the foyer as large stainedglass windows set a backdrop to the bookshop and main cafe.

I am so glad I convinced my family to make a stop here, as I make my way into the exhibition of the library’s collection of realia, including some of Eddie Mabo’s art, breast plates worn by Aboriginal men who had helped European settlers and a kettle that Queen Charlotte gifted naturalist Joseph Banks.

Unfortunately, the main reading room is closed, but I venture to the membersonly room to have a sneaky look. It is gorgeous and makes me want to sit down and devour a good book.

I buy a book on photography techniques and make my way out, a bit sad to leave the grand building.

National War Memorial

The memorial is big and it shocks me to learn only a mere 3 per cent of the collection is on display at any given time with the remainder in storage at another location.

I travel up to the memorial in an Uber but am instantly disappointed I didn’t walk up because many monuments line both sides of the road and I want to look at them. Nevertheless, as I walk into the foyer I feel small next to the fighter jets and it is obvious the exhibit of wartime memorabilia will be sizeable and thoughtfully displayed.

The visit leaves me feeling a mix of sadness, anger and pride but I know it was a necessary visit to pay my respects to those who selflessly fought wars for my freedom. The memorial’s aural and visual qualities make this a stop that can’t be missed when visiting Canberra, so ensure you secure a timed ticket before heading over.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AUSTRALIA

The museum is so incredibly packed with the nation’s memorabilia, it is a little overwhelming. Nevertheless it is absolutely a nonnegotiable spot to visit on your Canberra visit. A wellbalanced mix of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander history and colonial history is presented with quirky and varied cultural highlights in between.

Whether you are there to see specific items such as the great Phar Lap’s ginormous heart or to take in the country’s history through various themes, there is something for everyone at the museum.

If you like to read everything, set aside an entire day for this monumentally large collection. Otherwise about three hours will do it, but don’t expect to take it all in.

Running until August 27, travelling exhibition Feared and Revered on loan from the British Museum is a mustsee. Exploring singaporeair.com five themes in which femininity is regarded through time and culture this exhibition is an eyeopener to the way feminine energy and power has been manipulated over time. Adult tickets will cost you $22 if you prebook or $25 at the information desk.

AUSTRALIANS & HOLLYWOOD EXHIBITION AT THE NATIONAL FILM AND SOUND ARCHIVE The National Film and Sound Archive is just down the road from the National Museum and certainly worth a visit. The archive’s current exhibition, Australians & Hollywood is a glamorous dive into the Australian influence on the silver screen.

The dystopian world of Mad Max is displayed with a neat collection of customised steering wheels.

Turning the corner of the small exhibition, the many endeavours of dynamic duo Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin are on display including costumes from Elvis and Moulin Rouge.

Stars Nicole Kidman and Kylie Minogue feature and costumes from Muriel’s Wedding and The

Costumes from the recently released Elvis movie, designed by Catherine Martin.

Sapphires are brought to life. Indigenous storytelling is explored through behindthescenes footage and profiles on Aboriginal talent such as director and screenwriter Warwick Thornton.

Buy tickets online to secure 15 per cent off before you head over.

E-SCOOTERS

OK, hear me out, I know they can be a nuisance but, oh my, do I have fun on the escooters in Canberra. My travel companions and I ditch Uber and public transport for Neuron scooters every chance we get, getting used to cruising along Lake Burley Griffin between the city centre and Kingston foreshore each day.

I would be remiss to not include this fun and economical way to get about the nation’s capital even if it did feel like everyone was staring at me at first. If you have a smartphone and are willing to look a little silly, I can guarantee you this is the best way to get around — you will see more and save your feet.

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