The Iconic Western Shirt

THE ICONIC WESTERN SHIRT

BY AMBER MORIN

The Iconic Western Shirt History in the Now If you head outside of the border town of Douglas, Arizona you’ll hit dirt roads that lead you straight to some of state’s most historic and colorful ranching families. Some of these families have been on the same land for generations, others have recently moved into the area, like Tyler and Katelyn Klump.

As expected on a drive through ranch country, you can catch a glimpse of cattle grazing on desert browse through barbed wire fences. Time, it seems, slows down out here in Arizona’s cattle country: there’s less hustle and bustle and you can get away from it all. I also can’t help but wonder if time slows down because the past is so relevant out here. Barbed wire fences have been around for over a hundred years, dirt catch tanks and working cattle horseback are tools and trades of the cowboy that have been around for centuries. cattle country, has a romantic story of its own that many don’t know. The iconic pearl snap shirt with wide collars and cuffs was born from the hard work and visionary thinking of Mr. Jack A. Weil, founder of Rockmount Ranch Wear. Weil is considered the “Henry Ford” of the western shirt and has been one of the most influential forces in American western fashion. His idea was born in the 1940s, when most clothing was being produced for World War II and when most cowboys were wearing simple chamois shirts and denim pants.

Weil took inspiration from the movies for his shirts and the idea for shirt snaps, in place of buttons, from a fellow shirt maker. He wanted to make something more than a simple product. The idea behind Weil’s western shirt was to, “reflect the flamboyance of the rodeo riders, their reckless bravado.” He wanted to, “Translate those qualities into the pattern and cut, shaped cuffs, bold yokes, tapered waists, and vibrant colors.”

The western shirt has been given new life thanks to Katelyn Klump. As you enter Katelyn’s house, you’ll find a kitchen table and counter covered with fabrics, piles of patterns ready to be sewn, an iron and a sewing machine. Her house has been transformed into a seamstresses shop dedicated to making custom western shirts.

Katelyn’s inspiration came from her own experience as a rodeo queen. At nearly 6’ tall, she had a difficult time finding shirts in her size. Luckily, her mom knew a thing or two about sewing and made Katelyn custom shirts to wear. At her first futurity barrel race Katelyn saw another competitor in a unique shirt and thought, “I could make that or something even more unique.” She became inspired to act when talking to another ranch wife who was frustrated at not being able to find unique kids shirts.

Katelyn made her first shirt for her husband Tyler last summer. She used him as a “tester” to see if she could even make one, as she had only just played with sewing projects in the past. That first shirt was one heck of a learning curve that took her about 15 hours to make, but she didn’t quit. Her second shirt took a few less hours. Now she has her system down to just a few hours from start to finish. After posting her first shirt to Instagram, a few people contacted her about making custom shirts for them. The first order was for another local ranch wife and barrel racing friend.

Since then, orders have been coming in steadily and the idea of “T Speared Brand” shirts was born. The T Spear was originally Katelyn’s cattle brand. She had attempted several times to use the letter K for Klump, but nothing jumped out at her. Eventually, she came up with a brand from her maiden name, Tappan, and the simple, clean T Spear was created.

Katelyn works with her customers through each step in the shirt making process — she ensures through sizing and fabric her T Speared Brand shirts are a collaborative creation with her customers. She wants her customers to have shirts that fit them perfectly, knowing that everyone has their own idea of a “perfect” fit. More importantly, however, she wants her customers to know that their shirts are built for them and with them in mind. As a rancher and ranch hand herself, who has now almost 10 years of experience working cattle and ranches, Katelyn knows the importanceof a shirt that will last through many longworking days and that also looks good.

Katelyn’s designs are inspired by fabrics, rodeos, and old westerns (just like Weil!).As the T Speared Brand grows, I can’t help but wonder how proud Weil would be thatsomeone starting a business, just like he did,is carrying on his western shirts tradition in a handmade, custom tailored way, translatingthe history, romance and uniqueness of theworking cowboy and rodeo athletes.

To read more about Jack A. Weil and the making of the iconic western shirt visit www.rockmount.com/pages/press. To follow Katelyn Klump and her custom western shirts in the making look for T Speared Brand on Facebook and Instagram.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Amber Morin, Southeastern Arizona Rancher, Writer, and Arizona Farm Bureau Staff 1/27/2019