TRAVEL DUBLIN, DONEGAL & NORTHERN IRELAND

TRAVEL Dublin, Donegal, and Northern Ireland

In my last article, “Drama and Elegance in Western Ireland”, I described in detail the first half of my trip, my own hand-crafted tour where we stayed in captivating castles, explored parts of the Wild Atlantic Way, and the Ring of Kerry. We left off in Killarney; now onto the second half of my trip.

We headed by train to the city of Dublin to join our escorted tour to Northern Ireland. While in Dublin, we stayed steps away from the EPIC Museum, which tells the story of Irish Emigration. The museum is interactive, with music, videos, and photographs, sharing the experience of the 10 million people who left Ireland and the impact they had on the world. It is one of Dublin’s highlights and was named Europe’s Leading Attraction for 2019. The following night I met up with some of my tour mates and went to a bustling bar with live music - a single guitar player leading the crowd in song who made sure we all had a good time. The music was a combination of local Irish tunes and classic songs I grew up with; we were surprised that we knew most of the words and could sing along. One client of mine spent five days in Dublin, and her favorite part was getting to know the people who taught her new songs each night.

The next night, with my new singing buddies, I visited the Guinness Museum, a landmark destination in Dublin. I didn’t know what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised by the rich chocolate and coffee smell of roasted hops in the air while we learned about all the intricacies of making this iconic beer. I had never tasted Guinness before, and

BY LISA MARTIN

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I immediately came to appreciate the dark and creamy beer. Legend says it tastes so good because the water used to brew it comes from the nearby Wicklow Mountains.

We got on our bus the next morning and headed to the historical city of Drogheda for a quick visit. Drogheda is one of the oldest cities in Ireland with many archaeological sites, home to abbey ruins and stunning cathedrals. Next, we traveled to Belfast to explore the Titanic Museum. The museum is built to look like the prow of the Titanic and is the actual height of the ship. Outside you can see the outline where the famous ship stood before launching. Inside the museum, there are exhibits showing what the city of Belfast was like while this ship was being built. There are original documents, pictures, and examples of products made in this industrious town. Recreations of Waterlily Star Lotus different staterooms from the Titanic

are incased in glass, filled with the style of bedding, chairs, and other furnishings that was on board. There is a short multi-sensory ride in a six-seat car that shows you what it would sound, smell, and feel like if you were walking around the decks while the ship was being built. What I found rather mesmerizing was a film shown on a three-sided screen that made me feel like I was walking into the belly of the ship and ascended through the decks, which allowed me to view the structure and layers in great detail.

Early the next morning we rode to the Giant’s Causeway, the place I looked forward to the most in Northern Ireland. This UNESCO site is the product of an ancient volcanic eruption 50-60 million years ago that resulted in the iconic interlocking hexagonal basalt columns. Nature can form mathematical designs from molten lava; I was amazed. The Giant’s Causeway gets its name from the legend that two giants from two different islands used the stones as a bridge until one giant was fooled and destroyed it. Explore the Visitor’s Center built in 2012 and learn about this natural wonder.

We left Giant’s Causeway and stopped at Portaneevey, the viewpoint for Carrick-a-Rede Island and Rope Bridge. The craggy cliffs and steel blue Atlantic Ocean were striking. White sheep dot the landscape, each painted with a little patch of color to identify which herd they belong to.

Back in Belfast, we visited one of Ireland’s oldest pubs – The Crown. Originally built in the 1820s, this pub has been refurbished to its former glory. The same Italian craftsmen who built the town’s cathedrals also created The Crown’s beautiful woodwork and stained glass. The pub has a nice warm feel to it, and there are small booths for groups, very cozy at ten, I might add! Later that evening we went to Filthy

McNasty’s, known for large paintings of rock and roll stars, an outdoor area for summer evenings, local musicians, and DJs spinning tunes all night long.

After leaving Belfast, we had lunch at the charming Beech Hill Country House. While eating our local fare, we enjoyed the view of a small stream that ran through the property, and a quiet tree-covered area with a lovely gazebo and benches for weddings. Rooms were cozy and well-appointed; there was even a children’s tea available. The owners were very proud to point to the framed articles mentioning Ed Sheeran and Will Ferrell’s visits. After lunch we drove on to Jackson’s Hotel in the heart of Donegal, back on the west coast.

Our explorations in Donegal included the International Appalachian Trail (IAT). In 2010 the Irish included a stretch from Donegal to Antrim as part of the official IAT. If you love to walk or hike, you will definitely love this beautiful trail along the coast. The Ap- palachian Trail starts in the US southern state of Georgia and continues through Maine to the top of Newfoundland, Canada. Though Newfoundland and Donegal are now separated by over two thousand miles of ocean, they were once part of the same landmass. I explored where the Irish leg begins at the Slieve League Cliffs. The colorful cliffs are three times taller than the well-known Cliffs of Mohr. If you are looking for ad- venture, one of the paths is only two feet Top: Grape Hyacynths; Center, wide in some parts, requiring special

Bottom, American Copper but-

hiking gear, and a little bravery.

Further along the coast we traveled to Rossnowlagh, a beach community known for its surfing. While eating lunch in our resort with a beachfront view, we watched surfers enjoy the mild waves. Right across the street is the Fin

McCool Surf School, great for beginner and intermediate surfers. If you are ambitious you can fit both surfing and fishing in one day. Due to the people on the beach during the day, it is advised to fish the night tides for flounder and bass. If you are a surf and turf person, golf is available in the area as well. Three featured courses include: Donegal Golf

Club, a champion links course five minutes from the resort; Narin Portnoo

Daylily; terfly on Seaside Goldenrod

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Golf Club, a scenic course with links and inland features; and County Sligo Golf Club at Rosses Point, one of Ireland’s oldest courses.

We finished the country adventure at the luxurious Kilronan Castle. We were transported back in time to the 1700s as we passed through the gates into lush acreage surrounding the castle. In front of the 18th-century castle were blooming hydrangea and to the left, the lake view of Lough Meelagh. The morning sun rising over the lake and resort was glorious. Inside, shimmering chandeliers adorned the high ceilings. We passed by the spa that looked relaxing with pool, sauna, steam room, and whirlpool as we ventured to the cellar for a lovely selection of wine and local cheese. Later that night, we savored a five-course meal of amuse bouche, duck tortellini and foie gras with aged parmesan crisp, baked hake with spinach risotto, fillet of beef with fondant potato, baby carrots, and oxtail au jus. We were treated to chocolate and hazelnut pavé and hazelnut caviar with chocolate foam for dessert. A harp player complemented our experience with her engaging artistry. The service and atmosphere would be perfect for a wedding, anniversary, or other special occasions.

The next day, we left the countryside and traveled back to Dublin for our last night. I was not ready to leave yet, so I scheduled a visit to the Jameson Whiskey Distillery. There were different tours, but two interested me the most. The first shared the history of the Jameson family, how whiskey is made, and included tastings comparing Jameson with Scottish and US whiskeys. The second tour compared five varieties of Jameson whiskey with each other. Even though I am not a whiskey aficionado, I had fun distinguishing the differences between them. I learned that my favorite variety of Jameson is Crested, a special blend that includes a portion aged in sherry casts, giving it a unique spicy sweetness. Crested is not exported to the US, so you can purchase it in Ireland or online. At the end of the tour I wandered through the Jameson store and enjoyed selecting jelly infused with whiskey to bring home for family and friends.

On the flight home I realized that over the course of eleven days I had fallen in love with Ireland. I want to bring my family to see the beauty of this Emerald Isle, experience the history, hear the legends, and get to know its wonderful people. I know anyone who visits would fall in love with Ireland too.

Lisa Martin, Travel Advisor, Luxury Cruise Specialist, ACC, Cruise Planners; Land and Cruise 860.929.0708 lisa.martin@ cruiseplanners.com TotalTravelToday.com