Top Rock Climbing Spots in Colorado

Jeremy Swanson

WHEN SPRING FINALLY ARRIVES IN COLORADO CRAMPONS ARE SWITCHED OUT FOR CLIMBING SHOES AND TRADITIONAL, SPORT AND TOP-ROPE CLIMBERS SCATTER ACROSS THE STATE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE INCREDIBLE WEALTH OF OPTIONS AVAILABLE WHEN IT COMES TO ROCK CLIMBING

With sport climbing set to make its Olympic debut at next year’s games in Tokyo, climbing of all kinds is likely about to get a boost in popularity. Whether you’re a beginner or a more advanced climber looking for a new challenge, we have some ideas.

INDEPENDENCE PASS

There are hundreds of climbing routes in and around Independence Pass near Aspen with something for everyone, from the classic Edge of Time to the challenging Cryogenics. Perched high above the Rio Grande Trail and the Roaring Fork River, the Gold Butte Climbing Area is another option that’s close to town and features routes for climbers of all abilities.

CHAFFEE COUNTY

The Upper Arkansas River Valley offers plenty of opportunities at the Fourmile area near Buena Vista with interestingly named routes such as Almost a Tunnel, Elephant Rock and Bob’s Rock. Find more climbing at Midland Hill or polish your skills at the man-made boulders at South Main in BV and at Salida’s Riverside Park.

SAN LUIS VALLEY

Once a refuge for the Penitente Brotherhood of Catholic monks who lived and worked in relative seclusion here in the early 20th century, Penitente Canyon is a mountain biking mecca, but there are plenty of rock climbing opportunities with more than 300 bolted routes and undeveloped bouldering opportunities.

MESA & DELTA COUNTIES

The towering spires and sandstone cliffs of Colorado National Monument make this a very popular destination for climbers, with hundreds visiting each year. Most routes require traditional climbing techniques. A popular route is Otto’s Route, named for John Otto, the man who spent several weeks pounding iron pipes and carving out footsteps into solid rock. It leads to the top of the 450- foot Independence Monument where the stars and stripes are raised each Independence Day, continuing a tradition Otto started back in 1911. Elsewhere, solid granite cliffs and Dakota sandstone boulders are on offer at Unaweep Canyon near Gateway. Escalante Canyon is another amazing area for rock climbing in Mesa and Delta Counties.

BLACK CANYON

Not only is it one of the most incredible places in Colorado, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park has plenty on offer when it comes to rock climbing, although this is not the place for beginners. There are plenty of routes on offer with April and May (depending on weather) being among the best times as the poison ivy hasn’t grown yet but the snow will have melted. Check the park’s website before your visit as shifting rock walls mean some rock climbing routes may be closed. You’ll also need a free wilderness permit for all climbing.

GUNNISON COUNTY

Hartman Rocks offers top-rope, sport and traditional routes with bouldering opportunities too. From Beginner Slabs to Quintessential Pinnacle, there are plenty of options to keep you busy. Taylor Canyon, Spring Creek, Lost Canyon and Cement Creek also offer a range of routes and bouldering opportunities.

RIFLE MOUNTAIN PARK

Rifle Mountain Park offers what some people say is some of best hard sport limestone climbing in America. With just under 500 different routes, almost all of which are sport climbs, Rifle is an incredible place with some very difficult climbs. Ruckman Cave with 40 different routes and Wasteland with 19 are mainstay areas.

NPS

EVENTS

Oct. 18 to 20 | Canon City A nationwide tour, the Craggin’ Classic features climbing clinics taught by professional athletes and local climbing guides. There will also be films, campfires, music, local food, raffles, vendor villages, and local crag stewardship projects.