Destination Aspen

Aspen is, in many ways, what people see in their minds when they think of Colorado: a mountain town that is draped in the gold of turning Aspen trees in autumn and snow-covered slopes in winter. A reputation as a playground for millionaires lingers, but Aspen is so much more than it appears to be.

Matt Hobbs

PAST AND PRESENT

Aspen is, without doubt, a year-round destination. But in the minds of many, particularly the tens of thousands who visit to ski every winter, it is defined by its winter endeavors. But as hard as it might be to believe today, Aspen went through a boom-and-bust period before reemerging, after a few decades of dormancy, with a new look and feel.

Hundreds of years ago, the Ute Indians “summered” in what would later become Aspen, but it wasn’t until gold was discovered in Colorado (and silver in Aspen) that people flocked to the area seeking their fortunes. The town that quickly sprung up swelled to around 16,000. Eventually and inevitably gold production slowed and eventually stopped and silver prices dropped (although large-scale silver mining in Aspen continued until 1917) as the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, which was put in place to increase the amount of silver the government was required to purchase, was repealed by Congress. Aspen began a period of rapid decline and was on the cusp of befalling the same fate as many other former mining towns that have long been deserted.

It would be too simple to attribute Aspen’s renaissance to a single person, but if there is one person who is routinely credited with breathing life back into Aspen, it is Walter Paepcke, a Chicago industrialist who visited the area in 1945 at the request of his wife Elizabeth who had herself visited in 1939 for a skiing trip with friends.

Aspen was still far from being an established ski town, but Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke saw the town’s potential (and had the financial clout to do something about it). They eventually formed Aspen Skiing Corporation, which had already been initiated by a determined group of skiing enthusiasts, including veterans of the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division.

Legendary in Colorado, the 10th Mountain Division was formed and stationed at Camp Hale (today called Ski Cooper) near Leadville when the United States entered World War II. They trained in the area before they were deployed to Italy. Upon their return many of them set about transforming the ski industry in the US.

Aspen’s first chair lift, the longest in the world at the time, was installed in December 1946 on Aspen Mountain and more and more people began to arrive as skiing became increasingly popular, particularly as the middle class found themselves with more money to spend on luxuries.

Skiing became so popular in fact that in 1958 Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands opened up for business. While the first organized skiing at Snowmass started that same year, the official opening followed much later in 1967.

While Aspen was on the path to long-term prosperity, Paepcke also saw Aspen as the perfect place for thinkers, leaders, artists and musicians from all over the world to gather and exchange ideas. He envisioned the mountain town as a summertime cultural hub.

In 1949, Paepcke invited more than 2,000 people, among them noted intellectuals and artists, for a celebration of the 200th birthday of German poet and philosopher Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.

That year, Paepcke created what is now the Aspen Institute and with his wife began planning a campus that to this day is perhaps simultaneously the most interesting thing about Aspen and one of its lesser know elements.

Modern Aspen was taking shape, and Paepcke seemed to have a hand in all of it, including Hotel Jerome and the Wheeler Opera House reopening, both of which are two of Aspen’s most notable and beautiful buildings to this day.

Aspen continues to grow, but it was this blueprint, laid down seven decades before and masterminded by the Paepckes, that has served as the frame that has been continually built upon to make Aspen the place it is today.

Michael Moran/OTTO

SEE AND DO

Aspen the town shouldn’t be confused with Aspen Skiing Company or the four ski resorts it operates. They are inextricably linked, but they are certainly not one and the same. The latter may well be the overriding reason for the town’s resurrection and continued success, but there is more to Aspen than skiing.

If, however, skiing, snowboarding and winter sports are your primary reason for visiting, you can read all about what Aspen offers in our round up of the state’s ski resorts.

Jordan Curet

NORDIC SKIING, UPHILL SKIING & ICE SKATING

Away from the groomed trails and the après affairs, there are other winter pursuits available in the area including cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on the Aspen Snowmass Nordic Ski Trail System which is one of largest free trail systems in the country. There are also a few places to ice skate in town including at the Aspen Recreation Center and Aspen’s only outdoor rink at CP Burger on East Durant Avenue. There are also fat tire bikes available for rent.

Aspen is also a good place to try the relatively new trend of uphill skiing. Skinning, as it is sometimes known, is all about earning your turns: ski uphill and then turn around and ski back down. In Aspen (that’s all four mountains) uphill skiing is free where it is allowed, but you will need a permit. Every December, Aspen hosts Summit for Life, a nighttime uphill race and fund-raiser for the Chris Klug Foundation.

If you’re looking for something to do that gets you out of the frigid temperatures, but before you indulge in an après-ski aperitif, Aspen has other attractions, particularly for lovers of art and culture.

ASPEN ART MUSEUM

A non-collecting institution with free entrance, Aspen Art Museum is a regional cultural center that brings programs and exhibitions to Aspen from around the world. The current location, on the corner of Spring Street and Hyman Avenue in the heart of town, was deemed necessary thanks to consistent increases in visitor numbers.

Designed by Shigeru Ban, the building is based on transparency and open view planes: inviting those outside to engage with the building’s interior and providing those inside the opportunity to see their exterior surroundings. Among the current exhibitions is “Elmgreen & Dragset: It’s Never Too Late to Say Sorry.” Running until

May 19, 2019, it consists of a display case containing a polished aluminum megaphone on a granite pedestal. Every day at noon, a man will appear at the case, open the door, take out the megaphone and shout: “It’s never too late to say sorry.” It is said to be a reminder of the power of language, gesture and action.

ASPEN ACADEMY SCREENINGS

Returning for its 27th year is Aspen Academy Screenings, a film series that screens acclaimed films actively campaigning for Oscar consideration. Originally an intimate and exclusive industry-only event, it has grown into an Aspen tradition.

Presented by Aspen Film, the series takes place between Dec. 26-30 at both the Wheeler Opera House and the Paepcke Auditorium. The 15-film showcase will open on Wednesday, Dec. 26 with “Amazing Grace,” a documentary about Aretha Franklin directed by Sydney Pollack and “Vice” directed by Adam McKay and starring Christian Bale as former Vice President Dick Cheney.

100 YEARS OF BAUHAUS

Aspen is also celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus movement with a range of events throughout 2019.

St. Regis Hotels and Resorts

DINING & DRINKING

It cannot be denied that ostentatious displays of wealth can be seen in Aspen, particularly during ski season. It has long been, and remains very much a place to be seen. However, where the well-heeled congregate so do the best and brightest of the culinary world.

DINING

The Chef’s Club at the St. Regis Aspen is perhaps the most unique option in town. The idea is relatively simple: a chef and his or her team will arrive at the St. Regis Aspen to give locals and visitors a taste of something new. From Dec. 15 – April 6, 2019, Chef Daniel Humm from New York’s Eleven Madison Park (EMP) will bring his culinary chops to bear on Aspen. Humm and his team will bring a slightly more laid-back version of what you can expect in New York with a menu that takes inspiration from the surrounding countryside and Humm’s Swiss heritage.

In partnership with American Express, reservations between Dec. 15 to Jan. 31 are exclusively for American Express Card Members. Walk-in seating will be available on a first-come first-served basis.

The St. Regis Aspen also has a proprietary Bloody Mary. Perfected (not necessarily created) by the St. Regis in New York, each St. Regis property creates its own version.

Scott Clark Photography

Ajax Tavern inside The Little Nell is a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It is also a great place to indulge in an après-ski drink or snack given it sits right next to the Silver Queen Gondola. Read about it in our Top 10 Après-Ski Spots on page 104.

Michael Moran / OTTO

A good spot for coffee, breakfast or a relaxing lunch in beautiful surrounds, SO Café at the Aspen Art Museum is on the rooftop of the museum and offers amazing views of Aspen Mountain, a feature that alone makes it worth a visit. SO Café offers a lunch menu that changes weekly.

Elsewhere, Element 47 at The Little Nell (a Forbes Five-Star restaurant) is well known for dinner, but a somewhat elevated breakfast buffet during ski season is a good place to fuel up before a day of activity.

Two other options that are highly rated and recommended are Bosq and Cache Cache, both of which were part of our “Fall Fine Dining” feature in issue one. Both also offer a bar menu which is a good option for those who want something quick or less formal but with the same exacting culinary standards.

DRINKING

At ski resorts in the winter it is called après, but in any other place and at any other time it is called day drinking.

So whether you call it a libation or a brewski and whether you drink it out of a hand-blown Zalto wine glass or off a ski, Aspen has everything from a pint of hoppy nectar to Champagne on the mountaintop.

Aspen Tap / Aspen Brewing Company

Aspen Brewing Company, Aspen’s only craft brewery, has a taproom on the corner of South Galena Street and East Hopkins Avenue. Along with traditional pub food, cocktails and wine, they serve some very fine Colorado beer. Try the Ajax pilsner or the Cloud 9 saison.

For wine lovers, Aspen is quite possibly one of the best places in the country if you like variety. Cache Cache and The Little Nell (available in Element 47 and Ajax Tavern) have wine lists that are as diverse as they are extensive (November’s count put The Little Nell’s cellar at an impressive 21,530 bottles). Both work with several Colorado producers including Sutcliffe Vineyards, Jack Rabbit Hill Farms, Monkshood Cellars and Buckle Family Wines.

For those who simply can’t wait to get off the slopes to start enjoying themselves, there is Chair 9 on Aspen Mountain. With just eight chairlifts on Aspen Mountain, Chair 9 was named to evoke the 19th hole in golf. It opens just as the lifts are closing.

Belly Up Aspen is somewhat of an institution and features live music from both big names and local talent.

WHERE TO STAY

Aspen has a range, relatively speaking, of places to bed down for the night. The St. Regis Aspen, the Limelight Hotel and Hotel Jerome are among the better known. And then there is The Little Nell, the only ski-in, ski-out, five-star, fivediamond hotel in Aspen.

Shawn O'Connor

THE LITTLE NELL

Owned and operated by Aspen Skiing Company, The Little Nell is welcoming with professional but not overly-formal staff. Located at the base of Aspen Mountain, the fireplace that serves both the lobby and the Living Room, a lounge area off Element 47, is very welcoming. Guest rooms and junior suites underwent a renovation in 2017 which has left the hotel with very tasteful and comfortable rooms that are predominantly white with furniture

in shades of gray and splashes of color from the art and other personal touches.

Aspen Meadows Resort

ASPEN MEADOWS

If you’re looking for something super cool and relatively unknown, there is Aspen Meadows. Designed by Bauhaus master Herbert Bayer, Aspen Meadows is on the 40-acre campus of the Aspen Institute (which also operates the hotel).

A work of art, quite literally, the campus is just one mile from downtown Aspen but is somewhat secluded and feels as if it is much further away. Rooms ooze Bauhaus style and while they may feel a little stark to some, lovers of culture and art will adore them. The resort is competitively priced compared to others in town and there are shuttles to and from downtown.

DAY TRIPS

Aspen offers enough activities to keep anyone busy for weeks, but if you want to explore the area, we recommend venturing to these nearby destinations

SNOWMASS

Located just a short drive up Highway 82, the main draw of Snowmass is the skiing. Owned by the same company as Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands, Snowmass has over 3,000 skiable acres. Snowmass is a great option for all levels with plenty of terrain for beginners. It is welcoming a big expansion this year with the opening of its new base village. Phase one of the project, which will add lodging, residences and amenities to the resort over the next 10 years, will be completed this winter.

Apart from skiing, there are plenty of dining and shopping options in the village. There is also Anderson Ranch Arts Center. Made up of 14 ranch buildings on five acres, the center is a year-round destination and looks absolutely stunning when blanketed in snow and decorated with lights.

BASALT

A quaint community 30-minutes northwest of Aspen, Basalt is laid-back and full of charm. While the historic downtown is small, it’s full of great restaurants and cultural offerings. If you only have a few hours to spend in Basalt, start with a self-guided history tour (around 45 minutes; information available online at basaltchamber.org). Follow that by browsing the works on display at Ann Korologos Gallery and The Art Base.

If you’re looking to dine in Basalt, try Free Range Kitchen and Wine Bar where seasonal​ comfort food is on offer in a very nice historic building right downtown. The food menu is complemented by a robust wine list along with cocktails and craft beers. For additional drinks, Woody Creek Distillers is not to be missed. They have a tasting room and offers tours.

ASPEN 365

A look at what Aspen's other seasons have to offer

SPRING

While the skiing doesn’t wrap up until mid to late April, receding snow means warmer-weather sport enthusiasts are out and about. The cycling community is one of them, and a favorite ride that roadies always look to usher in the riding season with is a ride up Independence Pass. Before the pass opens up to cars (it is only accessible seasonally), cyclists are able to spin to the top during The Ride for the Pass race. The ride depends on the weather, but it usually happens mid to late May. Spring also brings with it plenty of warm, sunny days which are great for exploring Aspen’s lower elevation hiking and biking trails. And of course when the snow flies, there is always more skiing!

Don’t miss: Aspen Film Shortsfest - A showcase of short form comedy, drama, documentary and animation | April 2 -7, 2019

SUMMER

Aspen may be a mecca for winter sports, but summer is no slouch when it comes to seasonal activities. From hiking, biking and camping there are plenty of recreational offerings in the area. The whole Roaring Fork Valley is lined with trails that are peppered with wildflowers in the summer (try Cathedral Lake trail). Ballooning and paragliding are also great activities that will give you a bird’s eye view of the valley and surrounding mountains. The Snowmass Bike Park offers world-class mountain biking, and for those wanting to sleep under the stars there are dozens of campsites around the area. If you would prefer a guided tour, Aspen Snowmass offers professional outfitters that will show you the ropes on an overnight experience.

Don’t miss: The Aspen Food and Wine Classic - A culinary event featuring food and wine from around the globe | June 14 - 16, 2019

AUTUMN

Autumn in Aspen is one of the most picturesque times of year and while it’s hard to compete with a mountain blanketed in sparkling white, pristine powder, the yellows, golds and oranges that dot the landscape in autumn are equally breathtaking. One particularly photoworthy spot for this season is Maroon Bells. Said to be the most photographed location in the country, its popularity means that it won’t be the most serene of places this time of year, however the stunning views more than make up for it. Another worthwhile activity while in Aspen during peak autumn foliage is to drive up Independence Pass. And of course, the sunny and dry days of autumn are perfect for hiking, biking and horseback riding the area’s numerous trails.

Don’t miss: Golden Leaf Half Marathon - One of the most beautiful, but challenging races in the Rockies | Sept. 28, 2019