MANAGING EXPECTATIONS: Room-Darkening Track Systems for Roller Shades by O'D McKewan

MANAGING EXPECTATIONS:

Room- Darkening Track Systems for Roller Shades

Explain your room-darkening track system options to clients and never get caught in the trap of saying “blackout” or guaranteeing 100% light blocking

With the ever-increasing popularity of roller shades, one of the most frequent requests that I receive is for a blackout roller shade. The only problem is that there is no such thing as a true blackout roller shade. Sure, there is blackout fabric, but that does not mean the shade as a whole will be a blackout shade. I am one of those window covering dealers who explains to clients that there is no such thing as a true blackout roller shade, and that there is much I can do to reduce almost all of the light, but I never guarantee 100% blackout.

Additionally, the more light they want to block out, the more expensive the system will be. The difference between blocking out about 95% and 99% is more than double the cost. This does two things. First, it immediately puts the client in check, and they soon come to realize that they can probably live with the little amount of light that comes through on a well-designed room-darkening track system. It also allows me to explain the differences and lets them decide if they want to spend all that extra money trying to get that extra 5% of light blocked out.

or a small amount of light in a dark room will be visible, especially the longer you are in the dark room. Your eyes will adjust to find any traces of light. That is why I never say blackout or promise 100% blackout.

Before I get into describing what makes a well-designed room-darkening track system, let’s discuss how I approach

the whole room-darkening/blackout shade issues with all my clients and students. First and foremost, never call it a “blackout system”; instead, always refer to it as a “custom room-darkening track system.” As mentioned, the level of customization determines the price. Describe how light is like water: it will always find its way through even the slightest of gaps. It can bend, reflect, glow and disperse in any direction.

Clarify how our eyes have one major function (and it is not to make googly eyes at someone you are smitten with). It is to see light. No matter how low the light levels are, your eyes are just light receptors, so even an extremely low level

I have traveled all over this country designing and building custom room-darkening track systems for environments, including everything from scientific research labs with molecular microscope rooms and sleep study habitats to working on Upper West Side condos for clients that just want the best room-darkening options available. The most frequent comment I get is that they cannot find anyone who can do what I can do in their area. So, for the first time ever, I am going to share some of my most valuable tips on designing a true room-darkening track system for those who want to know.

Most importantly, every system needs to be designed for the location it is going to be used in. There is no standard for room-darkening systems, meaning there is no one system that will work for all applications. I am always using parts from multiple manufacturers to customize my systems. Here, I will cover

some of the most important features that will block out the most amount of light. Again, they are all dependent on the installation situation. Both inside and outside mount systems have their pros and cons, but using the appropriate hardware for each is required.

First, the use of a fascia system is never recommended. Whether it is for an inside or outside mount, the use of fascia with fascia brackets just lets in too much light. You should always use either a headbox (pocket) with an access flap (closure) or a cassette system. Both cover the roller from the back, top and front. The headbox with an access flap is even better as it covers most of the bottom of the roller. Some manufacturers now make a headbox system that is designed to work with side tracks and the access flap extends all the way to the side tracks, minimizing the light leakage.

Speaking of side tracks, this is where most customization comes into play. There are generally two types of side tracks: one-piece and two-piece. Onepiece side tracks should only be used for inside mount applications. If used for surface or outside mount, you will have to drill holes through the face of the track, which is not only unsightly because you must use plastic plugs to fill the holes, but it also causes more light leakage as the plugs do not always sit flush with the tracks. In fact, some of the lighter-colored plugs glow with direct sunlight.

Two-piece tracks are my favorite as they can be used for both inside and outside mounts since the screws are always hidden within the track once you snap the face piece onto the mounting piece. Not only does this allow for multiple installation options, but it also allows you to service the system without having to remove all the screws to get to the fabric off the shade.

Another important note when selecting your side tracks: Wider is better. The wider the side track, the farther the fabric can overlap inside the track. The farther the fabric travels inside the track, the less chance you have of light getting around the edges. Yes, light can shine through the front of the fabric even if it is inside of the tracks. The light reflects off the white backing of the shade, bounces and

bends around the fabric inside the track and then leaks out the front of the track. Therefore, the more the fabric goes into the side tracks, the better.

You can also reduce that effect by using a darker felt insert in the tracks. Many companies use a white insert and, although it might look nicer, it does not block the light. Always request a darker color like gray or black no matter what color tracks you use. Be sure to use a bottom track as well. A lot of companies offer a sill track that is more like an L track instead of a U track. I always order extra side track and just cut it to fit between the side tracks. On surface mounts, I miter cut the sides and the bottom track like a picture frame, which blocks out more light and keeps the look the same on all three sides.

Here are a few more tips to designing a good roomdarkening track system:

Stick with motorized roller shades. The clutch system will always let in more light due to the need for the chain drop. Cordless lift can be difficult to operate with the tracks.

Using darker-colored fabrics works better. They absorb more sunlight and have less chance for reflecting around the fabric.

Make sure to use a thin sealed hem bar. The thicker the hem bar, the more a gap is created in the side tracks. I have even gone so far as to remove the weighted hem bar, cut it down so that it does not go inside the tracks and then reinsert it inside the hem bar pocket just to keep the fabric as thin as possible inside the tracks.

Lastly, make sure to caulk all the edges of the system, front and back. Warning: White, tan and gray caulking can glow under direct sunlight. Putting black caulking in the back of the system and then covering it with a bead of color matching the caulking works the best.

Using all of these suggestions and tips should enable you to achieve that 95% to 97% light blockage, but if you have a client who really wants to block out as much light as possible, here are two more suggestions.

First, consider using an exterior zipper track system that is designed to be selfcontaining with a blackout fabric. You still have to deal with proper design and installation, but this will reduce a good portion of the excess halo that occurs with other systems.

Next, consider a dual shade system. I commonly offer an inside mount cellular shade with a blackout fabric and a surface/outside mount room-darkening track system when there is space to do so. This combination gets me to that 99% light blockage pretty quickly. As mentioned before, getting to that 99% can cost twice as much, but if you have a client who deems it worthy, you now have the information to make it happen.

Finally, when offering room-darkening track systems, make sure you explain your options and manage your clients’ expectations. Never get caught in the trap of saying “blackout” or guaranteeing 100% light blocking. Make sure to use some of the techniques and hardware described previously.

Lastly, charge accordingly. These systems can take a lot of time to design and install and you may be required to make multiple trips to eliminate as much light as possible. Take all of this into consideration before you offer, bid on or sell one of these types of jobs. V

O’D McKewan, the product coach for Window Covering World, is a master of motorization and a leader in the motorized window covering field. He has over a decade of hands-on experience with motorized window coverings, including fabrication, installation and selling. Interested in learning more about motorization? Sign up for the Window Fashion Certified Professional FastTrack course on motorization at WF-Vision.com.

MANAGING EXPECTATIONS: