Food

Restaurant reviews from around the region

Food

REVIEW: Eleven Spices Eleven out of 10 for flavour at recently relaunched Leamington restaurant

As a self-taught chef who first cut his teeth serving up traditional Bengali classics from No 11 Spencer Street, one might say it was written in the stars that Birmingham-born Baabzi Miah should one day return to his roots in Leamington as the proud co-owner of the newly launched Eleven Spices restaurant. It’s true, much has changed since Baabzi was last here decades ago, not least Britain’s expanding appetite for authentic British-Asian cuisine, which has come on leaps and bounds in the 21st century. In the case of Eleven Spices, embracing change has seen this third-generation family business come full circle with the launch of a stylish and contemporary South Asian menu that proudly celebrates the intricate flavours of Baabzi’s own childhood, as handed down from father to son. Situated just a short walk from Leamington town centre, within convenient reach of both the historic high street and thriving student population, Eleven Spices isn’t short of friendly competition, with nearby rivals King Baba, Five Rivers, Paprika Club and the Keralan-inspired Kayal all jostling for position on Leamington’s ‘curry mile’. A brief glance at the menu, however, sets Eleven Spices apart from its near neighbours. Taking its name from the secret combination of ‘11 spices’ which, together, play a part in every dish featured on Baabzi’s Bengaliinspired menu, this restaurant is (at its heart) a family enterprise executed with genuine love and an uncommon eye for detail. Gone is the spectre of the velvetclad 1970s curry house. In its place is a light, bright, neutral space, oozing style and sophistication, in which the subtlety and variety of Bengali cuisine is given full breathing space. Whether snacking on a bar plate of Nawabi Ghost Tikka (tender lamb marinated in aromatic spices), a vegetarian Gunpowder Aaloo (roasted potatoes marinated in fresh coriander and cumin), or settling down to a full three-course meal, Eleven Spices’ extensive yet highly specialised menu brings together such Bengali staples as korma, dansak, bhuna, biriyani and jalfrezi with a diverse selection of Bangladeshi-inspired specials that, together, celebrate the country’s rich culinary history. From the rustic flavours of Baabzi’s Railway Murgh - a Northern Bengali dish of boiled chicken cooked in a creamy coconut gravy, famed throughout the British Raj - to the fresh sweet & sour notes of the Karahi Matchi fish curry - a mouthwatering combination of fresh seabass cooked in tamarind, fried onions, tomatoes and garlic - this was a menu infused with a sense of the landscapes, people and flavours of an ancient homeland. Settling down to our meal, our choice of Murgh Tikka appetiser, although somewhat predictable on our part, delivered on every level. Perfectly seasoned, with a rich seam of chargrilled smokiness running through it and served with a sweet accompaniment of fried red onion and cooling mint & cucumber raita, the dish was nothing short of exceptional. As was my partner’s Fish Pakora, made with fresh seabass fillet: feather-light in texture, shallowfried and flavoured with a subtle blend of butter, aromatic spices and raita. A feast for the senses in every respect! Continuing our culinary journey across the Indian subcontinent, my partner’s choice of main course, Kala Bhuna Ghost, did not disappoint. A speciality of the Chittagong region, this sumptuous plate of tender lamb shoulder cooked in a smoky mustard oil, cumin, chilli and a blend of aromatic spices, was every inch the banqueting dish! Dark in colour and beautifully tender to taste, each new bite of this luscious curry offered up a new wave of flavour, like a kind of culinary alchemy! My choice of Murgh Lassani - a butter-based chicken curry - was, by contrast, refreshingly sweet and slightly sour in flavour, served with a deliciously zesty tomato-based gravy of caramelised onions and garlic, fried pepper and charcoal-grilled tikka-marinated chicken pieces. Special mention at this point must go to our host, Hussain proud son and heir to the Baabzi crown. He went out of his way to ensure our every need was catered for, and his pride in showcasing the much-loved cuisine of his own childhood was plain for all to see. With the meal drawing to a close, there was time enough to cleanse the palate with a Ferrero Rocher ice cream and chocolate fudge pudding dessert over coffee; a perfectly indulgent (if not wholly in-keeping) end to a terrific evening. As the sixth Midlands curry house to launch in the last five years under the ‘Baabzi’ brand, this culinary labour of love deserves every success going. The reason? Yes, the preciously guarded secrets of Baabzi’s ‘11 spice’ combination play their part - as does the skilled team of chefs bringing this stylish take on contemporary Bengali cuisine to life - but the real secret to Eleven Spices’ success isn’t that secret at all… Quite simply, it’s the love that’s baked into the homecooked comfort foods, celebration dishes and midweek dinners enjoyed by the family when they were children. It is these which form the very building blocks of Eleven Spices’ highly impressive menu, and it is these which emphatically set this restaurant apart. An 11 out of 10 for flavour served up with genuine heart! Katherine Ewing

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Eleven Spices 11 Spencer Street Leamington Spa CV31 3NE Tel: 01926 886215

Classical music from across the region...

Maxim Vengerov Gala Concert

Warwick Arts Centre, Coventry, Sat 3 December

Becoming a solo violinist at the age of five and making his first recording at the age of 10, it’s fair to say that Maxim Vengerov was the very definition of ‘child prodigy’. Multiple awards - including Grammy and Gramophone Artist of the Year - have since adorned the Israeli’s career, and he was recently appointed Classic FM’s first-ever solo artist-in-residence. Maxim here collaborates with the Romanian National Philharmonic Orchestra to present a concert featuring Prokofiev’s Violin Concerto No1, Sibelius’ Karelia Suite and Tchaikovsky’s Romeo & Juliet Fantasy Overture. The programme is completed by two works from Ukraine-born contemporary composer Alexey Shor. Armenian conductor Sergey Smbatyan is the man at the helm.

Armonico Consort: Carols By Candlelight

Collegiate Church of St Mary, Warwick, Sat 19 December

Well-established local ensemble Armonico Consort make a welcome return with their ever-popular candlelit concert of Christmas music. The evening’s programme sees a selection of firm festive favourites presented alongside a number of lesser-known works, including Toby Young’s Astronomer’s Carol, Bob Chilcott’s Shepherd’s Carol and Philip Ledger’s On Christmas Night. Armonico are also performing Bach’s Christmas Oratorio at St Mary this month (on Tuesday the 6th).

Orchestra Of The Swan: Midwinter

Stratford Play House, Stratford-upon-Avon, Tues 6 December; Drapers’ Hall, Coventry, Fri 9 December

Orchestra of the Swan deliver an evening of ‘ancient carols, folky fiddling, traditional Christmas songs and classical favourites’ in a concert celebrating winter and the festive season. The evening’s programme includes alongside plenty of other compositions Coventry Carol, Three Ships, Corelli’s Christmas Concerto, Purcell’s Now Winter Comes Slowly and Liszt’s The Shepherds At The Manger. David La Page (pictured) directs.

Classical

Ex Cathedra: Christmas Music By Candlelight

Hereford Cathedral, Wed 7 December; Kidderminster Town Hall, Thurs 8 December; Coventry Cathedral, Tues 13 December; St Paul’s Church, Birmingham, Mon 19 - Fri 23 December

What better way can there be to get into the Christmas spirit than by enjoying a concert by one of the country’s finest choral music ensembles? Under the directorship of its founder, Jeffrey Skidmore, Ex Cathedra is this month making a significant contribution to Midlands-based classical music lovers’ sense of festive cheer. The choir’s atmospheric Christmas Music By Candlelight evenings blend seasonal favourites from around the globe and across the ages with a variety of readings...

Worcester Festival Choral Society

Worcester Cathedral, Sat 10 December

“Handel’s Messiah is always a thrill to sing and to listen to,” says Ben Cooper, chairman of Worcester Festival Choral Society, who’re here performing the legendary work. “It really is the perfect way to herald the Christmas season. We’re expecting a packed cathedral!” The 161-year-old Society’s 140 voices will be joined by four solo performers to present the piece, which has long been considered one of the world’s most popular choral works. Premiered in 1742, the composition features the stirring Hallelujah chorus and numerous other well-known arias and choruses, including For Unto Us A Child Is Born and The Trumpets Shall Sound. Soloists contributing to Handel’s Messiah include Philippa Hyde (soprano), Sarah Denbee (mezzo soprano), Tom Robson (tenor) and Edward Grint (bass baritone). Samuel Hudson, Worcester Cathedral’s director of music, conducts.